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How to Repair a Camper Travel Trailer Electrical System

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Electrical System Design

Most RV’s and camper trailers utilize the same types of electrical systems as those used for an average small home. But in addition to the 110 volt electrical supply, there may also be lights, fans, a refrigerator, or other electrical devices which use a 12 volt supply, like that of a car or truck.

A 12-volt DC system powers the RV refrigerator to keep food cold while the RV or camper trailer is moving from place to place. The same goes for the lights and fans. It also keeps the on-board batteries fully charged. This system relies on the 110-volt AC electrical power supply for amperage.

It is possible to pull a 12-volt power supply from the RV or camper trailer's electrical system or 110-volt campsite power supply. Then the 110-volt supply can be stepped down to 12 volts after it is run through a power converter and to a particular appliance.

Rewiring a Classic RV

A classic 1946 Spartan travel trailer.
A classic 1946 Spartan travel trailer. | Source

Most of RV systems will switch from the 110-volt AC to the 12 volt DC supply automatically when there is a power interruption. These two electrical systems are treated independently from each other when diagnosing electrical problems, except for determining power to the converter. This translates to:

  • 110 volt power-- > converter-- > 12 volt power-- > 12 volt breaker box -- > refrigerator or lights

As in a home, the 12-volt system has its own set of breakers to control each circuit. The lights, fans, or refrigerator may each be on their own circuits, depending on the amperage required. If the converter is supplying 12 volts to the breaker panel and the breakers test positive for voltage, this leaves the wiring or the particular appliance at fault.

A 1956 Serro Scotty classic.
A 1956 Serro Scotty classic. | Source

Essential Tools and Resources

  • If you are not familiar with electrical wiring or troubleshooting electrical systems there are some very good books available to help you understand and repair common RV electrical problems. I would recommend RV Electrical Systems: A Basic Guide to Troubleshooting, Repairing and Improvement to any novice and experienced electrician alike. It will be an enormous aid to understanding RV electrical systems.
  • Another must for tracing down electrical problems is a voltage meter. This handy tool will allow you to check the circuits for continuity and for the correct voltage required for each breaker. A simple test light can be used but will not test for broken circuits caused by bad wiring or other electrical problems. Both of these tools are inexpensive to own and will more than pay for themselves over time. The voltage meter can be used for home electrical problems as well as any other electrical related problem. Both are offered on this page for a reasonable price.

Troubleshooting Common 110-Volt Problems

  • The 110 volt outlets used in some RVs and camper trailers are prone to shorts because of the way they are installed. Some are merely clipped onto the wiring by cutting into the wires. These types are notorious for not working correctly. Replace these types of outlets with standard house types to put and end to loose connections. Since some of the walls are so thin, a smaller receptacle box may be required for the outlet to fit flush in the walls.
  • Ground fault interrupter outlets are another common cause of electrical problems. These are located in places where a possibility exists of someone touching them with wet hands. They automatically break the circuit when moisture comes in contact with the outlet to prevent shock to the person touching them. A simple reset button must be pressed for the circuit to once again be completed. On occasion they will need to be replaced or the other outlets on the line will not work either. Pay close attention to the instructions when replacing these GFIs.
  • In older RVs and camper trailers you may still find fuses instead of circuit breakers. Since the advent of many new electrical devices, these older fuse systems may not provide enough amperage to handle a microwave or other high amp appliance without blowing a fuse or kicking a breaker. Simply replacing the fuse or breaker with a higher amp substitute may be all that’s required. Replacement of the entire breaker box may be the only option remaining if this doesn’t solve the problem.
  • The newer RVs and camper trailers may have two RV A/C rooftop units which require more amperage than the older models to operate without kicking the standard 30-amp power supply used by many campgrounds. Fortunately, many campgrounds and RV parks now provide 50-amp service for these types of units. When making reservations or checking in, be sure to ask about the availability of a 50-amp hook-up if you own a unit with multiple A/C units.

Keeping your electrical systems in good and safe working order insures a trouble free camping trip with no sudden power outages to ruin the trip. Most problems can be repaired easily if you understand how the system works. RV electrical manuals along with a few inexpensive tools are well worth the cost of their purchase.

If you are completely confused by electrical wiring there are also some very good basic books to start you off. It isn’t very hard at all to check electrical circuits, switches or outlets with an inexpensive voltmeter. Just remember, when touching any wires be sure the power to that particular circuit is off. If in doubt, turn off the main breaker or unplug the RV or camper trailer from the power supply. Happy camping!

Replacement Power Converters

Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard
Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard

Power converters for all makes and models of motorhomes and camper trailers available.

 

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Comments 618 comments

Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 42 hours ago from Southern Georgia Author

Bob-There may be an inline breaker or relay on the positive battery cable going back to the 12 volt power panel. when you say you've cleaned the cables I assume you checked the ground cable where it connects to the steel frame of the camper.

What is the voltage at the battery(s)? Are you sure the converter is operating correctly? A bit more info may help. :)

Randy


Anrique Bob 45 hours ago

I have a 2003 Cherokee 29Z and I have no 12 volt power at the connections in the power box? What could be the problem? The power switch by the battery does work and I did clean the cable ends.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 11 days ago from Southern Georgia Author

Wilfred, check the pigtail where it connects to the 110 volt power panel. Something or someone may have caused the connections to pull lose. You may have to check the cord for a short as well. Let me know if you can't find the short and we'll try something else.

Randy


WILFRED 11 days ago

HI RANDY I HAVE A 2004 WILDERNESS ADVANTAGE. I WAS AT A CAMP GROUND AND HAD THE RV PLUG IN TO CAMP GROUND POWER ALL DAY TIL IT JUST SHUT DOWN TRIP THE CAMP SITE BREAKER. AFTER RESET CAMP BREAKER PLUG IN AGAIN TRIP AGAIN. SO LEFT THE CAMP GROUND AND RETURN HOME PLUG IN 30 AMP FROM RV TO 110 VOLTS AGAIN TRIP HOUSE BREAKER WITH NOTHING ON THIS CIRCUT. I WENT INSIED RV AND TURN OFF ALL BREAKERS IN PANEL BOX ONCE AGAIN PLUG INTO 110 VOLT HOUSE RECEPTICALE AND IT TRIP IT AGAIN SO NOW I AM REALLY CONFUSED IF EVERY THING IS TURN OFF INSIED THE R/V HOW IS IT THAT THE RECEPTICALE IS TRIPPING BY JUST PLUGGING IN THE 30 AMP CORD CAN YOU HELP OLEASE ADVISE THANKS.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

David, have you cleaned the negative battery cable where it connects to the steel frame of the camper? Also, check the positive battery cable where it runs back to the converter. Sometimes there is a relay or inline fuse near the battery compartment and this can short out and cause problems. Let me know if you need more info and if you find the problem as it may be helpful to other RV owners in the future.

Randy


David 2 weeks ago

I have a trail-lite by reyson, I had a bad battery this past summer, and it boiled the good one dry. I finally purchased new batterys, but now the only system that works is the slideout. Nothing else works. Cleaned the terminals, double checked connections. No blown fuses or breakers.


Greg Mokler 2 weeks ago

I have a 13 year old Sprinter pull trailer with an electircal short somewhere. As we were extending the slides, the hydraulic pump stopped running, and a voltage check showed the reading all over the map. Started to get zapped by touching the frame, and other symptoms: The CFL bulb in the 110V lamp over table burns dimly, etc. So, there's a 110 hot lead shorted to the frame. Is thaer any more efficient means of localizing it than just crawling around and trying to inspect wires in close proximity to the frame? The closer one gets to the point of the short with one meter probe on the frame and one in contackt with the wire inside the insulatoin, the lower the voltage will read, correct? Is there a logical place to start this process ?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Therasa, have you checked the breakers yet? Do you know if the slide-out works on 12 volts or 120 volts? Normally the slide-out operates on the 12 volt DC system. Check for a loose connection in the slide-out wiring first.

Randy


Therasa 2 weeks ago

Hi, I just bought a 2017 267BHSW Jayco w a slide. All electrical was working. I moved my rig to another spot a few feet away. Plugged in to the electrical and the electric outlet on the slide will not work. Can you provide some troubleshooting advice? Thank you, Therasa


Mark 2 weeks ago

Randy, did everything you said and worked exactly as stated. Charged battery all worked

Converter was shorted, have new one on order

Thanks for your help

Mark


Mark 3 weeks ago

Thanks Randy will let you know


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Mark, Check the voltage at the battery and see if you're not getting at least 13 volts with the lights on or other 12 volt items. I assume you've checked the converter breaker already. If the "electrician" wired the 230 outlet normally it would have immediately tripped the main breaker because of the dead short. It may have fried the converter but before you buy a new one try a few things.

Be sure the negative ground cable is clean where it connects to the steel frame of the camper. Often a direct short affects the grounds as well as other connections. As a last resort, turn the converter breaker off in the 110 volt power panel and connect a good battery charger--not a trickle type--to the battery(s) and if everything operates normally a new converter is needed. Hope this info helps you with your problem.

If my advice doesn't help I'd appreciate you telling me what the problem was. Other RV owners may benefit from your experience. Thanks!

Randy


Mark 3 weeks ago

Randy

Have a wildcat camper, had electrician wire outlet for us. Plugged in and nothing worked

Found out he wired a 230 vote plug for a 110 camper. Rewired plug for correct voltage and everything worked for about 6 hours. Now all 110 volt circuits work but no 12 volt

Think inverter is fried? Help


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Bill, have you checked the breakers/fuses in the 110 volt AC power panel when plugged into shore power yet? And do you have a Gen switch or relay?

Randy


Bill 4 weeks ago

Randy. thanks for the article. I have a strange problem and was hoping you might have some insight. When my RV is plugged into 110, outlets along one side of my RV don't work. If I unplug the 110 and start up the generator, none of the outlets work. Any idea what's causing that? Thanks in advance.


Richard 5 weeks ago

Just purchased a 1994 cobra sandpiper and can't find the thermostat for the furnace. It has a furnace under the front drivers side bench. It had a roof top ac. Looked all over and can't find the thermostat for the furnace. Got any ideas?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Debra, this problem is probably related to the power converter. Try using a good battery charger on the battery and if everything works okay then the power converter is bad. Also, have you cleaned the negative battery cable where it connects to the steel frame of the camper? Often a bad ground there will prevent the converter from keeping the battery charged. Let me know if you need anymore advice. :)

Randy


DebraNapier 6 weeks ago from Eastern Tennessee

Hi, Randy, I have a 99 mallard bumper pull and im not getting power to my light or friz, unless the camper is hooked to my truck. but i do gett power to microwave and outlet one side of camper. Any ideas?

Thanks, Debra


DebraNapier 6 weeks ago from Eastern Tennessee

Hi, Randy!

I gotta 99 mallard bumper pull. im not getting power to my light or friz unless im hooked to my truck, but getting power to microwave and outlet one side of camper.

Any ideas? Thanks, Debra (love your tips on here..lots of help)


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Robert, do you have 30 amp service(120 volt) or 50 amp service(240 volt)? Usually the green and white wires are ground wires. If you have 50 amp service the other two wires can go to either X or Y as they are hot wires.

Randy


robert 6 weeks ago

I have a 2007 montana 5 th wheel the power cord came apart and I am trying to but it together you have 4 wires green white red black the plug has a g for green and w for white now their is a black and red wire left the other place has a y and a x which wire goes to the y and what colour goes to the x thanks


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Terry, some campers have a relay from the positive battery cable leading back to the 12 volt DC power panel, or in some cases, from the power converter to the battery. I think the former is true in most cases. Feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


Terry 7 weeks ago

We have a 2000 Keystone Sprinter 245FB travel trailer. We are trying to figure out the wiring from the battery and on back. Inside the pass-thru is a small relay by itself under a cover. It looks like the battery wire goes to one side - what goes to the other side? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!


Bo willard 7 weeks ago

Have a Jaco Jay Flight, trying to figure out how to take the fuse panel out to get to the converter. Or do you have to take the stove out to get to it?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

Henry, turn all of the breakers off in the 110 volt power panel except for the main breaker. Plug the camper into shore power and then turn on the breakers one at a time until you find the one causing the short. You can then eliminate everything on the circuit except the item causing the short.

Randy


Henry 7 weeks ago

charge fuse in my fuse box


Henry 7 weeks ago

I have a 2013 Cougar fifth wheel and when plugged into truck receptacle it blows the charge and when plugged into shore power it blows the shore power breaker. Any ideas


gary 8 weeks ago

I got a 98 jayco pull behind im not getting power to my light or friz,but getting power to microwave and outlet one side of camper,


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia Author

David, it may be a protection breaker of some kind. The lights, fridge, pump and other items you mentioned are normally controlled by the 12 volt system. Have you checked to see if this circuit powers the converter yet? Just asking because the type of power surge you described could cause damage to the converter.

Randy


David 8 weeks ago

Hi Randy, I just left a friends trying to help. He wired a new plug from the house so he could plug in his Jay Feather Exp 2008. he wired it in 220v. It tripped the breakers. (power surge). We put in the correct 110v breaker. But now everything works except one breaker in the trailer. it controls the lights,sink pump,radio, and i believe the fridge. 15 amp. When you turn it on It trips everything. I noticed it has some type of resister? Or relay from the wiring to the breaker. Only one that has it. Question is what is that thing? Could it just be the problem or other trouble shooting ideas?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Ien, I'm afraid I cannot advise you on this problem as I've never encountered anything similar before. Apparently the motor is locked up for some reason. If you solve the problem I'd be interested in the solution in case others have a similar problem. Good luck!

Randy


Jon 2 months ago

Ok, So I had plugged in the cord to the outlet located on the side of the camper, Took out the fuses,

And then one by one screwed all the fuses back into the fuse box. and still nothing, but I analyzed the power cord and the inside where the prongs plug in is cracked a little plus the cord was in bad shape to begin... with it was all taped up on the end when I bought it used.

So I'm gonna try and new cord, and if this is not the case... is there anywhere else other than the fuse box that I should be looking for power sources?


len williams 2 months ago

The electric drop down bed in my 2013 Thor Outlaw Toy Hauler released while driving and stuck in down position. The motorized system is not lifting the bed and motor makes no noise when toggle switch is activated. Road service warranty tech helped me find the 1/2 " socket connection for manually operating but unable to release motor drive from mechanism in order to manually turn nut drive.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Jon, it appears there's a short either in the outlet or the cord. Try tuning off all of the 110 volt breakers/ fuses and plug the cord in. If no smoke appears, then turn on the main first and the other 110 volt circuits one at a time until you find the circuit causing the short. You may someone to watch for the smoke while you turn on the breakers/fuses. There may be something on that circuit--either wired or plugged into--causing the short.

Let me know if you have further problems and I'd pleased to learn what you found out the problem was.

Randy


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Jody, have you cleaned the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper yet? If not, try this first and see if it makes a difference. If you suspect the power converter of being bad then turn off the converter breaker and attach a good battery charger--not a trickle type--to the battery(s) to see everything works properly. If so, the converter is at fault. Ask for more info if needed.

Randy


Jon 2 months ago

It was coming from the outlet on the side of camper where the cord plugs in to give the camper power.


Jody McRae 2 months ago

Hey man. How goes it? Got a 2003 Forrest River "Wildwood" bumper pull. Had it plugged up at home. Everything worked. Got to campsite. Plugged in. Nothing. Switched off breakers inside and lights came on for a second and dimmed off. Flipped breakers back on and the microwave beeped. Microwave works. Flipped breakers back off and lights came on for a second and dimmed off. Checked fuses. They seem ok. What do you think?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Jon, where was the smoke coming from?

Randy


Jon 2 months ago

Hi Randy,

I have a 1973 Holiday 16 foot camper (model 17)

today, we had a blackout due to the weather which caused our house and our camper (which was plugged into the side of the house, where we were getting power) to turn off.

I came in and about an hour after the power kicked back on.

SO, I went back out to the camper and it had nothing.

I then went and re plugged the cord back in another plug-in. (I also plugged other things into the wall and it worked) and the camper still didnt kick back in.

Finally, I checked the fuses they dont look burnt out... and when I tried to pull the cord out of the camper it started smoking a small bit.

NOW, I cant get anything at all. Randy, Can you maybe assist me with what you think is the issue?

Jon


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Jay, have you checked to see if there's a relay/fuse inline on the positive cable--usually mounted to the frame of elsewhere--going back to the converter? Some campers have one and some do not. Others have reported this being the problem with their 12 volt system and they had to either clean it or replace it to fix the problem.

Feel free to ask for more info if needed.

Randy


Jay Stoddard 2 months ago

2011 Wildwood, new batteries, rated at 650 c.c.a., load tested at 700 c.c.a. Cleaned and checked all battery connections twice, made new ground connection to frame. The converter will run all the 12 volt system and still show full battery power. However when I unplug the 120 volt power supply the battery shows less than full voltage. I can turn on one higher draw item such as the water pump and it will work for a while. If I add a couple lights the 12 volt system shuts down completely. When I plug it in again everything works perfectly so it can't be the converter or a fuse. (I checked all the fuses and breakers too.) The converter has been keeping the batteries charged. This problem developed since I had the batteries changed a month ago. It was working ok then, just weak batteries. It has been plugged in continuously for the last month.

Why don't I have any 12 volt power without the converter plugged in?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Dennis, this is the first time I've encountered this problem from anyone. I do know an absorption fridge--like most in RVs--won't work if they're unlevel, but not the DC system.

The only thing I can suggest it when the camper is level and the DC works properly, is to move the converter and the wires around as well as the 12 volt fuse panel and any other part of the system you can to see if the problem occurs.

Sorry I cannot help you further, but I'd be pleased if you returned and related what the cause of the problem was. Have you tried turning off the converter breaker and using a good battery charger to see if the problem is in the converter?

Randy


Dennis 2 months ago

I have a 2002 palomino stampede 21 ft ultra light that will not allow dc current to flow unless the camper is perfectly level side to side. I was only off only a 1/4 of the bubble on level and will not work. I put 1 1/2 in block under tires on down side to level and comes right on. any thought on whats going on there? should it have to be that paticular or is there something other thant he level going on there? thanks in advance for any insight.


Bill 2 months ago

i am getting all most 14 at the battery like 13.95


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Bill, this may be a power converter problem. How many volts are you getting at the batteries? Try turning the converter breaker off and using a good battery charger to see if everything works normal. If so, the converter is at fault.

Randy


Bill 2 months ago

yes i cead post and they brand new batterys they run from batt. to the inverter and my gen. wont start its like the batt dont have anuff juice in them it is 3 batterys and the pos. cable is getting hot to


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Have you cleaned the negative battery cable where it attaches to steel frame of the camper yet, Bill. This is a common problem with the electrical system. Anything else you can tell me about the problem?

Randy


Bill 2 months ago

Randy i have a 93 gulf stream 38 ft i need some help when i plug into shore power the neg cable at the battery gets really hot and after its pluged in for very long it will throw the house breaker any idea y


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Larry, when you attached the negative cable to the battery it is common for it to spark as you simply completed the circuit by doing so. You should be receiving at least 13 volts from the converter when measured at the batteries. Be sure to clean both the positive and negative battery connections, especially the negative cable where it attaches to the steel frame and the frame connective point itself.

Randy


Larry 2 months ago

Hi Randy great forum! I found you after I ran into my dilemma,(not that you were lost)

I replaced my old converter, it was only putting out 11.9 volts. The new one is putting out 14.6 volts, so far so good. But ..... when I was attaching the neg battery cable to the battery (I had already attached the pos) the neg cable sparked as I touched it to the neg battery post. Is this normal ? My shore power 120 volts was not connected. The voltage at the disconnected neg cable (which is grounded to the trailer frame) is the same as my batteries 12.75 volts. ( I put the pos side of my meter on the neg cable and the neg side of my meter on the neg battery post) Is this normal back feed until the neg ground is complete? Is it OK to connect the neg cable to the neg battery post? If not, what might be going on ? Thanks for any help you can offer.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Wendy, if the microwave and oven are on the same circuit there may be a bad connection at one of the outlets on the same circuit. I'd start by checking the outlets in the kitchen. If you have a GFI outlet in the kitchen it could be bad and preventing the power to stop at that outlet. Hope this info helps.

Randy


Wendy Andrews 2 months ago

I have a 2014 Fifth Wheel. I replaced the converter three days ago and everything works except my microwave and stove/oven which runs on propane. The battery is fully charged for the past three days. The kitchen fuse is good but I put a new one in anyway. The breaker is working properly. I am at a loss as to what could be wrong.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

The battery is probably at fault, Dave. First clean the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame and the frame itself. Also, check the battery(s) fluid level as a low level will prevent the battery from holding a charge. If this fails to work then a new battery may be in your future.

Randy


dave 2 months ago

have power to 12 volt with a/c power on, when turned off no 12 volt back from battery, any ideas where to start ?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Sue, have checked the power converter yet? The 12 volt system also controls the thermostats in the fridge and in the water heater. The converter also keeps the batteries charged in the camper as well as the lights and vent fans and sometimes the AC thermostats.

It could also be a bad ground on the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. This cable is notorious for getting rusty and causing a bad ground. Also check the positive cable going back to the power panel as there's sometimes a relay mounted in-line near the battery box. These can go bad too.

If the converter is working properly you should get a reading of at least 13 volts at the battery. I still suspect the converter though. Feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


Sue Kocisky 2 months ago

Hi , I was wondering if you could give me some ideas on wiring. We have a 2003 Mobile Scout SunnyBrook 30 ft travel trailer. Every thing works on electric but not so much on propane. We bought a new battery but no power to the hot water heater and the lights (breaks turn signals running lights). all messed up. But in the camper the inside lights work . Somebody said ground wire. but wouldn't it mess up all the lights. If we have auto lights on in the truck the break lights do not work, but they will if we turn off the auto head lights in the truck. If we take a wire directly from the battery to the hot water heater it will start right up. RV place said our Truck was wired right.And works with our horse trailer. we checked the fuses all are good. any ideas . Wish i could find a diagram of how it is wired. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.And the battery has to be recharged 2 times a day with just the frig. running . something is really pulling the power.Oh and it will not recharge the battery when plugged in to the truck going down the road. Thanks.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Tommy, you can follow the pigtail connecting to shore power, it connects to the main power panel inside the camper. There's more than likely a breaker/fuse tripped and it could be the power converter breaker/fuse. The fridge thermostat is controlled by the 12 volt system as well. Be sure to check or reset all GFI outlets--usually anywhere you have water nearby, kitchen, bath, etc. to be sure they aren't tripped. Let me know if this info helps or not.

Randy


Tommy J 2 months ago

Requesting help. New owner, used travel trailer, no original owner's manual for specific unit - 2004 Bumper Pull 35 ft Keystone Mountaineer. 2 slides, bed and living area. Problem is the refrigerator wouldn't come on. No lights, nothing. I tried checking with a volt meter and must have shorted out something because now the exterior electrical plug in doesn't work. Replaced all fuses in the invertor box but have no idea where the main power box is located. Have looked everywhere! Any and all help appreciated. By the way, frig now has lights on but also the Check light is on. It is a 3 way operational type, or supposed to be. So far not coming on. Appreciate any help!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Bryan, in most cases yes the truck battery will power some--if not all--12 volt items in the camper. I'd try the lights first to see for sure if they'd work okay before planning a trip.

Randy


Bryan 2 months ago

Randy, Getting ready to buy a used Rockwood Roo Hybrid. Does the towing vehicle's 12v system typically power/charge the trailer's 12v system through the trailer hitch wiring? Or, does this power connection only power highway lights? In other words, let's say the battery was dead or missing--would internal trailer 12V lights work if hitched to the towing vehicle? Thanks! -Bryan


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Scott, it could be either the trailer or the campground hookup, but you should still check the grounds in the power panel for loose connections as when you are touching the camper you're acting as a ground.

If you weren't standing on bare or damp ground, or were wearing shoes you may not have been grounding the camper at you or your friends home.

Randy


Scott L. 3 months ago

Just finished my 1st trailer / camping weekend.....all went great except twice while outside and touching the bare aluminum by the storage doors I got what I would call a buzz....like touching your tongue to a 9volt battery except a tad be stronger?? Could the campground power box be not grounded correctly or should I look at my trailer? Had it plug in at my home and at a friends home and never got zapped. Any clues or direction would be awesome.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Thomas, have you tried turning off the breaker/fuse which controls the power converter? I'd turn off all the 110 volt breakers except for the main, then slowly turn on the circuit breakers to see if there's a short on one of the circuits causing the problem. This may narrow down the problem somewhat.

I assume you've reset the GFI outlets as they may have tripped when you grounded the camper by touching it. Also be sure and clean the negative cable of the battery(s) where it connects to the steel frame. If this doesn't help then let me know and we'll go from there.

Randy


thomas 3 months ago

Hi randy! 2005 sprinter keystone. Went to set up last night and plugged in the camper and I touched the camper to go around and it shocked me, and now nothing will work in the camper except the battery powered lights. guessing i have a short somewhere. I checked fuses all good, the cable itself is good, my only thing is if it may be the converter or GFC outlet. the power source just keeps on tripping off.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Cindy, did you clean the negative cable where it is attached to the steel frame of the camper? If not, try cleaning the negative cable end and also the spot on the frame itself. A bad ground will cause all sorts of problems in a 12 volt system and a corroded negative cable is often the culprit.

There may also be a fuse/relay located in-line on the positive battery cable going to the 12 volt power panel. This fuse/relay--which you may or may not have--should be near to the battery compartment. Feel free to ask for more info.

Randy


Cindy 3 months ago

I have a 1995 Kit Companion and have run into some electrical issues. It started with the sudden loss of 12v power. One minute it was fine and then nothing, no dimming, just nothing. First thought was "converter", but testing it with an Ohms meter, and it appears fine. The real head scratcher is, ( I have power coming from the wire connected to the NEGATIVE post of the battery. Before you think, reverse polarity, this is a double 12v system with the positive connected to the positive, and the negative to the negative. There is power from the positive side as well!

At one point we disconnected the negative cable, and for a moment all was right, but once we reconnected the cable it when back to being positively charged.


Randy Godwin 3 months ago

Trina, I suspect the power convert is bad and is causing a short in the main breaker panel, especially if the wall outlets aren't working. I assume you've checked all of the breakers to see if any of them are tripped and also the breaker in your home panel?

Randy


Trina Quintana 3 months ago

I have a fleet wood terry pull trailer and a few months ago I took it in because we were having problems charging the batteries from the house power. we mentioned these issues to the dealer an they had us buy new batteries saying the old ones were bad. well now we are trying to recharge the batteries from the house power and we have no power at all. fridge is not getting cold, and none of the outlets work. we checked all the fuses and they are all good. what may be the issue?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Also Gordo

n, it's possible the wires to the GFIs come from an ordinary outlet in the camper. I'd check the connections on all of these outlets as it's possible a wire may be loose going to the GFIS.

Randy


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

You may have to run temporary wiring before finding out where the wires go from the breaker, Gordon. If things work correctly, then you can think about snaking new wires in some manner. Sorry I can't furnish you with a wiring diagram as it would be invaluable. I run into this more often than you'd imagine as many older RVs usually didn't supply a diagram.


Gordon Palmer 3 months ago

My electrician removed wires from breaker on inverter as well as other end of wires on GFI plug in bathroom. Using a tester he got over 100 ohms of resistance in wire. Don't know if wire goes to somewhere else before going to GFI plug. Don't know if wires travel under floor or through ceiling . Cannot find a diagram of electrical distribution.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Gordon, there's obviously a short in the GFI connection. The converter should not affect the 110 volt breaker the GFI circuits are connected to. Check the ground wires going to the GFI circuit as one is probably touching a hot wire somewhere in the breaker panel. Feel free to ask for more info if needed.

Randy


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Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Janice, there's no problem switching the wires as you only risk a fuse blown or a breaker tripped as the wordt possible scenario.

Randy


gordon palmer 3 months ago

I own a forest river wildcat 5th wheel rv 2013. I have a short in gfi wiring . When gfi breaker in inverter is on I get 119 volts going to ground. I drove a rod into ground and put tester from rod to license plate light cover and got 11o volts. When I shut off breaker at invereter all is ok. Disconnected gfimpuugs and turn on breaker and get ground, get high resistance in wire from inverter to plug in wire. Where does this wire travel from inverter breaker to gfi plug.


Janice 3 months ago

Thanks for the speedy reply, I haven't checked shore power but there's a glitch there too, the camper is a 67 and the shore power connection is a pretty ancient 3 prong plug that I have yet to find an adapter for.

I just got this rig and the PO assured me all lights work but they didn't have a clue where power cord was. It was a mirical we ever found the jack stands & crank among the mountain of 'stuff' they have.

Anyhow lights fire up (in reverse) I have no doubt they work on shore power.

The 7 pin works on my other camper but on this one I get this glitgh. I have tested with a test light and all is as it should be. I also have a Reese plug tester and that shows AOK, I do not however have a meter.

Was wondering if I switch the black 12 volt wire to the middle connection where yellow (back up) connection is and vise versa would that work or blow my brand new battery.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Janice, have you tried the lights on shore power? If so, do they work properly? Have you also checked the voltage--either with a 12 volt test light or with a digital multi-meter--on the truck end? This should tell you if the wiring connection on the truck is properly connected and why the lights aren't operating properly.

Randy


Janice 3 months ago

Hi and HELP!

My interior camper lights only turn on when truck is put in reverse.

I've checked both ends of wiring harness and both are wired correctly. What gives?

Trying to go camping and keep getting set back.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Steve, it depends on what is operating on the 12 volt circuit. Lights. fans, etc. Do you not have the old breaker to compare it to?

Randy


Steve 3 months ago

I need to know how many amps circuit breaker goes on the battery of a 2005 Fleetwood Tucson tent trailer. Thanks for any info.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Jack, have you checked to see if the power converter is keeping the battery fully charged? Or if the negative battery cable is corroded where it is connected to the steel frame of the RV? You should be getting at least 13 volts at the battery if the converter is good. You can try hooking up a battery charger to the battery and if things work normally then the converter is bad. Feel free to ask for more info if you need it. :)

Randy


Jack D. Lohr 4 months ago

I own a 2004 Skylin rv. I'm troubleshooting my water tank problem. I've tested fuses and breakers. AC voltage good. No DC at wall switch. This also is source of ignition for the gas igniter. Any suggestions are welcome. Thank you


Theresa 4 months ago

Yes, the AC control panel is wall mounted.

(only one AC)

I will go clean the ground properly

and check all the things you suggested.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Forgot to tell you Theresa, use a 12 volt battery charger and see if the lights and other 12 volt items work correctly. If so, the power converter is probably at fault.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Theresa, I'll help you as much as I can without actually being there. Bear with me because sometimes I do not have access to comments for several hours and the same for my own comments.

The first question is why do you use a 15 amp 220 outlet instead of replacing the breaker with a larger size. I assume you have two ACs since you have a 220 pigtail plug. If the wiring is large enough--probably 10-2 would do--you can simply replace the breaker.

You presently do not have enough amps to run the AC from the present power source even if it is in perfect running condition

As for the 12 volt DC problem, have you checked the power converter to see if it's keeping the batteries fully charged. Also, make sure the battery ground cable is clean where it attaches to the steel frame of the trailer. Also clean the frame where the ground cable attaches. A bad ground here will cause all sorts of problems.

Too, if the fridge is a gas/electric model the thermostat is powered by the 12 volt system as is the AC if you have a wall mounted thermostat.

I hope I covered your questions but if not, please feel free to shoot me few more.

Randy


Theresa 4 months ago

Hi Randy, so much good info on here thanks!

I have a 2005 Fleetwood Pioneer BP travel trailer that I got at auction, so no books or any background info. So far it seems pretty sound.

Now I'm readying for visitors coming to stay with us on the farm.

I have it in a 15A/220v outlet (of course the big AC trip the breaker when I tried it LOL) So we put an X on using it for the moment (the AC that is) ... OK now I got 2x new deep charge batteries for it a few weeks ago and hooked them up, all they seemed to be able to power were the lights! Maybe I hooked the batteries wrong?

2nd yesterday an alarm started, high pitched LOUD ... upon investigating (and ripping out out all 3 D batteries out of the smoke and CO2 detectors (which I'm replacing with new one tomorrow) the beep still came back, found a little red light on a panel said: Low Power,

Well I thought when you were plugged into the main power that the batteries re-charged themselves? So again either I did not hook them up right or it's something else ... I was thinking of adding a double breaker on my house 110 panel and running a line out jut for the trailer would love to be able to run the AC (if it works)... Alternatively I do have a generator not sure how long it would have to run to keep the fridge (apartment size going?) 2x small fans and a TV and some lights...

I'll gladly look up any info on panels, appliances and o on that you might need to give an answer. I have tomorrow to run around and try and get some of the problems fixed, my guests arrive on Saturday but I can still work on it after, just would like the alarm to stop beeping when they are here and trying to sleep LOL... unlike a lot of the above comments people pulling fuses or shutting breakers I need to have my unit going! (it's breakers in the panel and I did turn off the AC breaker)

Really hoping you can help me de-muddle even if it's just to know what and how to ask retailers for what I need!

Thank you


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Chris, sounds like a dead short of some kind. Have you checked the pigtail where it connects to the breaker panel? If you have to you can make a temporary pigtail out of 12-2 wire to see if the pigtail is at fault. Ask for info if needed.

Randy


Chris 4 months ago

Hey Randy!

I haves 1972 Shasta Starflyte with a single 15 amp breaker but whenever I plug the trailer into the receptacle at the house the breaker in my house (15 amp also) trips. I've even un installed every light fixture and receptacle and wire nutted each wire individually and it still happens when I plug it in.

I have no clue where else to start looking before I have to tear back into the walls and am hoping you might have an idea.

Thanks!

Chris


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Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Abe, first I would turn off the breaker/fuse which controls power to the converter. Then replace the blown 30 amp fuses and see if they blow again. If not, the converter is shorted out and needs replacing.

If they still blow then remove all of the smaller fuses--other than the two 30 amp fuses-- and try again. If the 30 amp fuses do not blow then replace the smaller fuses until you find the circuit causing the overload. Ask for more help if needed.

Randy


Abe 4 months ago

Randy, I do not have any 12v power from my trailer plug or my battery on my travel trailer. I believe the previous owner had switched the positive and negative battery cables around when they tried to hook it up. I have two 30 amp fuses that are labbled "battery", but they keep popping. Im not sure of the exact time that they popped, but its happened twice so far. Where should I start?!!!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello John, you need to find the 12 volt power panel to see if a fuse or breaker is tripped. The 12 volt and 110 volt power/breaker panels are usually near where the 110 volt power shore connection exits the camper.

Randy


John z 4 months ago

I do not have any power to my power gear leveling jacks. It is a Jayco motorhome, I know i have to have the motor home running or key on position.

Parking brake on. I have no idea where the source of power comes from, if there is a fuse that could of blow. Nothing is in a manual that tells me about this system, where they tied into.


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Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Bobby, yes it is possible for the boards to be fried. I've encountered this from some of my visitors here in the past.

Randy


Bobby 4 months ago

Hey Randy, thanks for the response. My battery gets put on the charger and has been tested for load. Question, I have 12 Volt power to the circuit board's on the fridge / hotwater heater / and the fluid - power level board but nothing seems to be transferring on the boards. Is it possible to have had a power surge that would toast all the boards. or am I missing something.

Thanks!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Glad you found the problem, Brian. Yes, sometimes I wonder at some of the things the electricians were thinking when they wired a camper at the factory. Thanks for returning and telling me what the problem was. I'll keep this in mind for future reference. Drop back by if you have anymore RV problems. Thanks for your visits!

Randy


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Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Bobby, if you aren't connected to a 110 volt power supply -- and haven't been in a long time--how are you keeping the battery charged to peak? Unless there's fuse/relay mounted in-line from the positive battery cable to the 12 volt panel, I'm not aware of any place other than the 12 volt panel where there's junction box. Some campers have the fuse/relay and do not.

Randy


Brian 4 months ago

Thank you Randy. I traced the wiring to the first light. Turns out there was a bad switch that controlled the whole circuit underneath the cabinet (not sure why it's there since every light has it's own switch). Once I eliminated the switch, all the lights started working!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Brian, I'd check the first light in the circuit if you know which it is and look especially at the ground and positive wires where they connect to the fixture. You really need a 12 volt test light or you can use a multimeter if you have one. Hope this helps!

Randy


Bobby 4 months ago

Hey Randy, I have a question. I have a 12 volt issue with m camper. All of the lights and fans that run off direct power will work, but all the 12 v accessories like my fridge, stereo and the fluid level / voltage lights that use a circuit board of some sort don't seem to be working. I haven't connected it to 110v power in a long time so I doubting a power surge. My batt is fully charged and has good draw. All the dudes are good. Is there a 12 v junction box I'm missing somewhere? Thanks!


Brian 4 months ago

Randy,

All the other DC circuits off of the panel are working. The slides work, the lights in the front room and bathrooms work. The vent fan and light from the hood work as well. It's just one circuit that has four lights down the middle of the camper that are not working. I have 13.2 volts at the DC input of the panel. I have tightened all the ground wires on the grounding bar. Could there be some component I may not be aware of between the panel and the first light?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Brian, are the lights the only 12 volt item not working? Are the vent fans operating as usual? Can you give me a bit more info?

Randy


Brian 4 months ago

Hi Randy,

I have a 2010 KZ Spree Travel Trailer. While I was on my latest trip, I noticed a whole circuit of 12v lights stopped working after plugging into shore power(30A). I checked the DC fuse(it was good) and even changed it just for good measure and nothing changed. I then moved the circuit wire to another fuse and still nothing. Do you have any ideas for me?

Thank you


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

cdavid, there' apparently a short somewhere. I'd start by disconnecting the generator and see if that makes a difference. Did the breaker in the house or the RV trip when the flash occurred? More info may help me narrow the problem down.

Randy


cdavid.alpha@gmail.com 4 months ago

I have a 1984 Holiday Rambler, 24' Alumi-Lite on a chevrolet chassis. Great machine BUT I developed an electrical problem. The generator stopped putting 110 volts in the camper but shore power was okay. Several weeks later, the shore power quit too. I checked it out then plugged the shore power back in and was surprised to get a great electrical flash arc at my home plug receptacle. Huh, I don't know. I could not locate the transfer switch and couldn't find a repair manual nor diagram of the system...? Any ideas beside dropping it off at the expensive repair shops?

Thanks, David


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Rebecca, apparently the AC is overloading the breaker for some reason. It could be something as simple as dirty coils causing the compressor to overheat thereby tripping the breaker--which using a good coil cleaner should fix the problem-- or the worst case scenario is a bad compressor causing the breaker to trip. In this particular case it would better to replace the old unit rather that having a new compressor installed. Usually this is cost prohibitive when the labor is added in. Ask for more info if needed.

Sorry about the delay answering you Rebecca. The comment program on this site is making comments difficult to respond to. Hopefully they'll get it fixed soon. :)

Randy


rebecca s hedden 5 months ago

Randy on my 2008 Rockwood the 3rd breaker from left, a 15 amp breaker for the air conditioning keeps tripping. Nothing else is own, all other circuits cut off. what could problem be? We are hooked up at home to a 30 amp connection.


Randy Godwin 5 months ago

Hi Jason, this may be a converter problem as you should be getting at least 13 volts at the battery when the camper is connected to the shore power. What happens when you use the shore power instead of the generator?

Randy


Jason 5 months ago

Randy,

I have a 97 prowler with an electrical issue. I have checked the batteries and both have 12.67 volts and when the generator is running there is 12.8-12.9 volts. All accessories work perfect with the generator running, but as soon as the generator shuts off I lose power to everything in trailer. I have checked the converter and it shows 5.5 volts along with the 12volt side of the fuse panel. I'm checking grounds and nothing is standing out. Do you have any other ideas? I have also checked the gfi and that appears ok also? Kinda at a loss. Thank you in advance.

Jason


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Wayne, do I understand correctly that you have power at all of the breakers in the 110 volt power panel? If so, I'd check all of the non-working outlets for a loose or burnt wire. An electric heater pulls lots of amps so there may be wire not making contact in one of the outlets. They--the non-working outlets--are probably on one circuit.

Randy


wayne 5 months ago

I was running a interior electrical heater in my RV, the heater stopped and discovered no power to wall outlet, in addition have no power to receptacle for refrigerator. power at breakers and wiring leading out, GFI circuit is ok, unable to locate a wiring schematic for the trailer (2004 Open Road)


Kyle 5 months ago

Randy, the dealership confirmed that it was the main power wire running from the back of the converter to the junction box where the 30A pigtail connects to the trailer that was shorting out. They had to cut the underbelly and replace the wire and found that the wire had been pinched between the frame and the underbelly and had worn through the plastic coating causing the short. It was due to in attention during manufacturing and not a failure of the wire.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Cynthia, did you discuss your needs with a Lowe's employee? I'm sure they have a generator that will do the job. Sometimes you can buy a good generator used on a motorhome which has been junked. Most of the time these generators have been used very little and will provide more than enough power for your needs as well as being quieter than most standard generators.

Randy


Cynthia 5 months ago

Hi Randy,

I'm needing to buy a generator that will run ac and full size fridge, no stove. We have a 2006 fleetwood fema trailer. Connection states: 120/240 volt 3 pole, 4- wire, 60 hertz, 50 ampere supply.

125/250 V grounding

I haven't had much luck at Lowe's in regards to buying the correct generator for these main necessities. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Kyle, I didn't realize your converter was wired directly from the pigtail. Most converters get their 110 volt AC power from a breaker in the 110 volt breaker panel and with all the breakers turned off I couldn't see how the converter was causing the house breaker to trip. I've learned something myself from your problem.

I'm not sure how your wiring is routed but it seems strange that you can't access the wiring without having to remove the underpinning. Let me know what you find out from the repairman if you don't mind.

Randy


Kyle 5 months ago

Randy, I should further explain that I had someone test the cord/pigtail and it seemed OK. He thinks that the short is in the orange wire from the pigtail to the converter which is in the underbelly. I'm not sure why it would go bad but is it wired direct to the converter? Being enclosed I can't see if it connects to anything else between the junction box and the converter. At this point I'm going to take it to a dealer to have a technician fix the problem. Thanks for your help. I will post the final outcome when known.


Kyle 5 months ago

We just bypassed the power cord and put power directly to the converter like you suggested and the breaker did not trip and we confirmed using the meter that it is the source of the short. I'm assuming I need to replace the entire wire running from the converter back to the 30A plug junction box which is contained within the metal cord box. The trailer has an enclosed underbelly so do you know if I can just pull the new wire by attaching it to the original or does the underbelly need to be removed? I'm concerned about snagging on the furnace ducting. Any idea on why the wire would be shorting out in the first place?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Kyle, you can check the pigtail for a short by using a multimeter set on ohms if you know how. If you don't then let me know and I'll describe the process for you. If nothing else you can replace the male plug on the pigtail as they sometimes short out.

Also you can run another wire from the 110 volt breaker panel where the pigtail connects--12-2 or 14-2 would work fine with an ordinary plug on the end and it doesn't have to be very long because you can use an extension cord to hook to it. If it kicks the breaker then you have other problems. If not, then the pigtail is the culprit.

Randy


Kyle 5 months ago

I found where the pigtails connect to the trailer and they are tight. I also checked the junction box under the hitch and pulled out the converter. All connections are tight. I'm wondering if it might be the cord itself or the plug end. Unfortunately the cord stores in a metal box welded to the under carriage and the underbelly of the trailer is enclosed so I don't want to start taking off all of that if it can be avoided. I'm at a loss as to what would be causing it to short out at this point.


Kyle 5 months ago

Randy, I've tried multiple outlets on different household circuits and the trailer continues to pop the breakers. Do the pigtails connect on the back side of the converter or somewhere else on the trailer. Thanks for your help


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Kyle. have you tried another outlet other than the one you're presently using from the house? If so, and the same thing happens, then check where the pigtail wires are connected to the main breaker panel. Sometimes the pigtail comes loose at this point especially if the pigtail has been stretched or pulled at some point.

Also, it isn't uncommon for a main breaker to go bad but this doesn't sound like it's the case. Feel free to ask for more info and I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know what the problem was if you find it so I may be able to help others with similar problems. :)

Randy


Kyle 5 months ago

My 5th wheel trips the house circuit as soon as it is plugged in. I've shut off all the circuit breakers in the trailer, hot water tank is turned off and unplugged the outdoor fridge so their should not be anything drawing power yet it continues to trip the house circuits as soon as it is plugged in. I also verified that the battery is installed correctly. The 12V system is working fine. Any ideas on what I should try next?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Ed, unless you have an on-board generator the 110 outlets aren't supposed to work unless the camper is plugged into a 110 volt power supply.

Randy


Ed 5 months ago

I have a 2007 adventurer truck camper all electrical outlets are alive when plugged in to 110 volt supply outlets are dead when not plugged in lights always work any advise please


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Rebecca. The fridge is only on one breaker and cannot cause 3 of the to trip. Apparently there is some other problem with your electrical system. What are the two breakers--other than the fridge--powering on their circuits?

Randy


rebecca 5 months ago

We have a 2008 Rockwood Signature Lite. When camping the air conditioner kept tripping the breaker. We would reset the breaker and it would run awhile and kick. Upon coming home we parked it under the shelter and cut off air conditioner and left the refrigerator on. After 24 hours I went to get groceries out and the refrigerator had tripped three of the switches in the breaker box. We just replaced the breaker box before using it. What could be the problem? Thanks R. Hedden


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Melissa, is there another GFI outlet in the kitchen on the same circuit as the non-working outlets? Often the GFI will show it being reset but it isn't. The only remedy is to replace the GFI and the other outlets on the circuit should work correctly.

As always, ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


Melissa 5 months ago

Hi, we bought a 2016 3711FL Keystone Montana. (Front living room). We went to play golf yesterday and when we got home the main breaker was off at the pole. We reset it and everything worked in the camper but the kitchen. I reset the only GFCI I could find and it worked fine. The fridge, microwave, w/d and 2 outlets are not working and everything else is good. I reset all of the breakers inside the camper and none of the fuses are lit up. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Steve, are you sure there is an inline fuse? Is the main breaker in the power panel not getting power? A bit more info may help me assist you with the problem. Otherwise you must start at the pigtail and go from there to find such a breaker.

Randy


steve 5 months ago

can someone tell me where to fine the 30 inline main fuse, on a 1990 terry resort 5th wheel thanks please email steve-22hhh@hotmail.com


Randy Godwin 6 months ago

Hello John, if you had the camper hooked up to whatever you were towing it with, the jacks may have been using the tow vehicle battery to operate the jacks. In this case, the converter may not be charging the camper batteries properly, but the tow vehicle battery is getting charged by the alternator and enabling the jacks to work. Also, the tow vehicle may be charging the camper batteries.

You need to check the voltage at the camper batteries to see if the converter is putting out at least 13 volts. If not, you may have a bad converter. Ask for more info if you need it.

Randy


John Z 6 months ago

I have a 2005 Jayco HD. we went camping over memorial weekend. When we were going to leave and when I wanted to raise the jacks they would not come up. I did manage to check out fuses all were good. I did release some of the power on the release buttons on the hydraulic unit. Enough to take all jacks and move them to the horizontal position to get home. I stop down the road to get some supper and when I started up the rv the jacks kick in and they returned to the normal up position. I looked over the manual book and could not find any troubleshooting technics to check out. Some reason it reset the unit, control system somehow. Do you have any knowledge on resetting the hydraulic unit in case this happens again. Also I have returned all hydraulic power lifts to there original position. Also have check to see if they all work properly and they do.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 6 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Steve, have you checked the voltage at the batteries? If the converter is operating properly you should get a reading of at least 13 volts DC at the batteries. Check to see if there is a relay on the positive battery cable going back to the converter. Some camper trailers have such a relay while others do not. If you have a relay then check to see if the voltage is getting past the relay. If not, the relay is bad.

Ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


Steve Nally 6 months ago

I have a 2008 Forest River Wildcat fifth wheel. When it is hooked up to 110 power everything works. when it is disconnected from the power the only thing that works is the front leveling jacks and only by the switch on the unit that is connected directly to the battery. any suggestions.

Steve


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Randy Godwin 6 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Tom. you need to click the "fan mail" section on the right side below my bio. It should say "send Randy an email. Hope this works for you. :)


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 6 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Go to my profile page by clicking on my profile pic. There will a contact email address on the page, Tom.


Tom 6 months ago

Anyway to send a pic of what I am dealing with?


Randy Godwin 6 months ago

Tom, is the converter on a circuit by itself? If so, it's getting 110 volts if all of the 12 volt DC items are operating correctly. have you checked the end of the pigtail where it connects to the 110 volt breaker box yet? If you are getting 110 volts there then it may be a bad ground. You may want to disconnect the power and tighten all of the connections if the 110 volt breaker panel, especially the ground wires. Hope this helps you but if not we'll try something else.

Randy


Tom 6 months ago

Randy, the only "main" breaker I know of is in the fuse box above the inverter. None of those breakers have power going into the bottom of the breakers. However on the other side where all the 12volt fuses are all have power. I only know of one other place that has kind of breakers. And those all have power also.

What other info are you looking for?

Thanks


Randy Godwin 6 months ago

Hi Tom, if you have no power to the breakers then a main breaker may be tripped. Probably caused by the AC compressor overloading the circuit. A bit more info may help me out with the problem.

Randy


Tom 6 months ago

I have a 2007 access (winnabago). I have no power to anything that is 110. I checked the fused on the inverter. They are all good. I checked for power going into the breakers. There is no power there. The power went out after I started the roof ac unit. The unit ran for a couple of minutes while I was playing with the knobs on the unit. Then the unit made noise and shut down. Any ideas? Please help. Thank you


Randy Godwin 6 months ago

Brennan, it is most likely the converter and not the outlets causing the problem. More than likely when the converter was subjected to reverse polarity it damaged the converter in some manner which is causing it to short out. A new converter may be called for unless you can have the old one checked out by an electrical repair guy.


Brennan 6 months ago

Randy,

I should also mention that the fuses and breakers in the trailer are all operational and haven't tripped.

Brennan


Brennan 6 months ago

Thanks for the reply Randy. I should have mentioned that I did that exact test last night and determined that it was the converter that was tripping the house GFI.

Knowing that it's most likely the converter, should I start testing the receptacles, lights and switches for a short? The lights and switches seem to work fine, but I haven't checked the receptacles yet. However, if there was short somewhere would the converter respond by pulling too many amps? Or should I assume that the converter is trying to pull too many amps to charge the 12volt battery?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated?

Thanks again,

Brennan


Randy Godwin 7 months ago

Hi Brennan, the easiest way to find out what circuit is causing the GFI to trip is to turn off all the breakers except the main in the 110volt AC breaker panel and then reset the GFI. It shouldn't trip the GFI if everything is normal. You can then start turning the 110 volt breakers back on one at a time until you find which circuit is kicking the GFI breaker. I'd suggest turning the converter breaker on first to see if the converter is indeed the culprit.

You can do the same with the 12 volt breakers or fuses if you have them if the 110 volt check doesn't solve the problem. Feel free to ask for more info if needed. Thanks for the question and good luck with your repairs. :)

Randy


Brennan 7 months ago

Mr. Godwin,

Thanks for the articles on RV electrical systems and converters. We just purchased a 1994 Kit Road Ranger. Here is my problem I'm trying to trouble shoot:

When I plug the trailer into the house it throws the 20amp house GFI it is plugged into. The house is new, the house GFI is new, the extension cord is 25' - 14ga/15amp rated and there are no other loads on the house circuit. The 12volt systems in the trailer work (lights, fan, etc) and there is nothing plugged into any of the 110 volt trailer reciprocals.

I haven't had time to check for loose connections at the trailer recepticals, but after checking those later today if the problem persist I'm assuming that I have a bad converter that is pulling way too many amp. Thoughts? Am I on the right track?

Additionally, my father-in-law, who we bought the trailer from, had the trailer plugged into his house with a 150' 16ga extension cord. Additionally, he installed a new battery a couple months back and crossed the wires for about 1 week (positive to the negative and vice versa). Despite his mental midgetness no house breakers were thrown at his house. I'm at a loss at this point.

Thanks,

Brennan


Randy Godwin 7 months ago

Hi Jeff, all of the items not working depend on the 12 volt DC system. Is the power converter keeping the battery(s) charged fully? And what is on the circuits blowing the 40 amp fuses? A bit more info may enable me to help you with the problem.

Randy


Jeffblat 7 months ago

Hello Randy, I'm in need of some quick advice.. I have a 2011 keystone Summerland TRAVEL trailer. My issue is after it sat for the past winter my electrical system is acting up. My lights worked and I extended my side-out. Also the Water pump worked. Then..... I hooked it up to the city water supply, also attempting the hot water heater. The water system flowed nicely but the water heater (electric switch) would not ignite. Also my radio and fridge will not work. The trailer was hooked up to the home electric at the time. I checked the breakers which were fine and the the fuses.. both 40amp fuses were blown and I thought I had my problem solved but when I replaced them with new fuses, the lights dimmed and it is lacking in power. What could be my issue??? Fried a fuse in my hand In The process ..


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Randy Godwin 7 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Carrie, you'll have to replace the GFI outlet more than likely. The other outlet is probably on the same circuit as the GFI outlet causing it to be bad also. This is a common problem both in RVs and home electrical systems. When you replace the GFI outlet the other one should work also.

Feel free to ask for more info if this doesn't correct the problem. Thanks for reading and the question. :)

Randy


CarriePol 7 months ago

Hi Randy, I have a 2010 sportsman classic trailer and have two outlets not working. All fuses and breakers are good. One of the outlets is a gfci outlet but has no reset button. Do you have any ideas on how I should fix this proble?


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Randy Godwin 7 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Mike, and thanks for your time and question. I don't know type or make of trailer you have but the problem may be in the slide-out wiring connector. You can usually access this connection by removing a panel or the molding near the switch. The wiring may also be crimped as it has to move with the slide-out. Hope this helps you solve the problem but feel free to ask more questions if needed. :)

Randy


Mike 7 months ago

We just took our trailer out of winter storage. Hooked the 2 6 volt batteries back up (properly) and every time I move the slide out or in a few inches the lights flicker and I lose power. Everything works fine with the 110 Vac connected. I un hooked the batteries and I get 13.7 v across the converter (plugged into 110 Vac). I checked the battery wires and the is 13.6 V there as well. Both batteries read 6.3 and 6.4 volts. They seem to be charged and seems that they are being charged. I checked the ground at the frame. Removed it and made sure it was ok and tight. Un plug the 110 Vac and try and move the slide and it cuts out. I'm stumped....lol


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Randy Godwin 7 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Karen and sorry to be so long responding but I was away all day. GFI receptacles are notorious for causing problems, especially if they've been tripped repeatedly over the years. If you've checked everything with a multimeter to be sure there isn't a short, I'd try changing the GFI.

Reading my response above, I realized you may have been referring to a GFI at a campground. LOL! Obviously you cannot replace it, so more than likely there's a short in the camper. You should be able to find it using a multimeter. Turn off all of the circuits in the main breaker panel and turn them back on one at a time after checking it out.

Feel free to ask more questions. :)

Randy


Karen 7 months ago

We recently bought a 2004 sportsman trailer. So excited to have another trailer. Brought it home hooked it up to 110 and had not problems. Ran everything for a week. Took it out for the first time and it would trip the GFI. Any ideas why??


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Randy Godwin 8 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

I'll look forward to your report, Patrick! I can always use your experience to help others in a similar situation. :)


Patrick Horan 8 months ago

Thank you Randy. I will try as you advised and report back either way. Give me a month or two though because I am in Minnesota and the trailer is in winter storage for at least another month.


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Randy Godwin 8 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Patrick, the converter should be on a 110 volt AC circuit by itself with the output connected to the battery and then on to the 12 volt DC fuse block. Both the fuse block and the battery should be grounded to the steel frame of the trailer to complete the 12 volt system. I don't see a need for a switch to separately or simultaneously operate both AC and DC systems. I hope this helps you out with the set up. If not, feel free to ask for more info. Thanks for reading and the questions. :)

Randy


Patrick Horan 8 months ago

Randy:

I have a Wells Cargo Motorcycle trailer that is also converted to be used for camping with bunks, fans, stereo, etc. I bought the trailer used and it had been broken into previously and most of the good stuff taken. Previous to that the trailer had three power sources, An AC connection, an intereior deep cycle marine battery (and charger) that powered all the interior 12V lights and appliances and a small exterior 12v battery that powered the trailer emergency brakes and some exterior lighting. I put a new converter and multi-fuse block in and wired all the 12v stuff to the fuse block with appropriate fuses. I would like to be able to run the 12v stuff off a deep cycle 12V battery when 110/120v is not available. Now my question: Could you explain how I can safely wire the deep cycle battery in to the fuse block so as not to cause damage to the converter, or cause damage to the battery when connected to an AC source. I am guessing that I may need to run a switch so I can switch between the two power sources, but I am wondering if this is the most foolproof way to prevent damage in case of a SNAFU. I would appreciate your advice.


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Randy Godwin 13 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Joe, are you sure the fuse blown was to the slide-out, or are you simply guessing? If you're sure it's the correct fuse then the motor must be overloading and causing the fuse to blow. That or it's a dead short in the wiring causing the problem.

If you're not sure the fuse controls the slide-out you may be able to jump the current in the switch panel for the slide-out controls. First check the voltage of the slide-out panel switches with a multimeter to be sure the power isn't getting to the switch in question before going further.

Feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


joe h 13 months ago

Hi, i recently purchased a used 2002 jayco designer 5th wheel 32rlts. We got it to its spot and started to figure out how to work all the pop outs and such. When we attempted to use the electric switch for the pop out it did nothing. All of the other electrical components worked, ie lights. Microwave etc. We looked in the fuse box. And in the 12 position, we noticed it was missing a 20 v fuse. We used one of the existing 20 v fuses and tried again. It sparked immediatley and blew the fuse. We tried a 30 or 35 v fuse and it also blew. I then took the pop out power switches off the wall and they appear, on a simple visual check, to be wired correctly. Can you offer any advice on where to start trying to find some help with this issue? One of the pop outs its not all the way closed, so we would like to figure this out before snow starts falling. Any help would be great. Thanks ahead of time.


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Randy Godwin 14 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Glad you found the problem, Ed. Yes, sometimes the odds are against multiple problems occurring at once, but then, sometimes the odds will fool you. Thanks for coming back and relating what you found. :)

Randy


Ed 14 months ago

Hi Randy,

Sorry for the delay (again,) got laid up with a torn rotator cuff.

I was completely stumped by my electrical gremlin, but took a head on approach over the past few days. Checked the battery disconnect relay, and no power in either position. Then I checked the fuse panel by the convertor, and although I still had 12V at the panel, nothing was operating. While string at it dumbfounded, I decided to check the amperage that was coming through the fuses. Microamps! I ordered the battery disconnect relay and installed it today. Sure enough, all of the 12V lights and accessories are now working on the house batteries, but not on shoreline. I will be ordering a replacement convertor tomorrow. I think we were both under the impression that it had to be a ground because it was highly unlikely that both the convertor and battery disconnect relay had gone bad. It's a 23 year old RV and has the dreaded Magnetek 6345 convertor. I guess sometimes everything can go at once.


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Randy Godwin 15 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

John--What all does the compressor operate? I assume it controls the leveling jacks and suspension, but I don't know what else . And yes, it has to have a leak somewhere in the system. Using soap and water may help you find the leak. Feel free to ask for more info.

Randy


John 15 months ago

I have a 2005 Jayco Seneca 34ssHD my air compressor under neither keeps going off every ten minutes or so to generate air pressure. I am going to start with soap and water to try and identify any leaks by fittings. Can you tell me where to find out what all operates on this system to help narrow out the possibilities.


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Randy Godwin 15 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

nbbrown--First you need to clean the negative battery cable end where it connects to the steel frame and the spot where it connects to. Then check the voltage at the battery where you should get at least 13 volts when a 12 volt item is operating. You may also need to check the battery after disconnecting the cables to ascertain if the battery is good or bad. A bad battery will not furnish enough amperage to operate all of the 12 volt items on board. Let me know if this doesn't solve the problem. :)

Randy


nbbrown 15 months ago

Hi Randy

I have a 2010 spree travel trailer. My problem is that everything works fine when hooked to 110 or a generator but when I disconnect from either one to automatically switch to 12 volt, the power will shut off then the fan at the breaker box will come on then after a few seconds a click will sound and the 12 volt power will come on then it will shut off again. This will continue on and on until I switch back to the generator. It will keep the refrigerator running but as soon as I turn a light on it will click off the power then on then off etc. What do you think the problem is? .


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Randy Godwin 17 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Shannon, the only option you have to increase the amperage is to convert to a 5o amp system. However, breakers go bad over the years especially when one lives in an area with frequent power surges or deficits. It may be worth trying to replace the breakers which trip the most often before changing the entire system. Thanks for the question. :)

Randy


Shannon 17 months ago

I have a 1981 (?) Holiday Rambler with apparent electrical issues. This weekend we've had quite a few storms move through the area. It seems that when the power flickers, it trips a breaker, which then will not reset. I live in this thing, so no lights, hot water, etc. really is not an option.

Aftet reading through as many of your previous posts as possible (on my phone), I've determined that it's probably best to switch out the breaker box and converter.

So, my question is this. I'm on 30A, can I upgrade so the breakers can better accomodate any overages, say, by at least 5A on each switch, without affecting the 30A load max?


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Randy Godwin 17 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Both pull a lot of amps but shouldn't cause the GFI to trip so easily unless they are older models pulling more amps than usual. It wouldn't hurt to check the ground wires on these circuits merely to see if they are securely tightened.


Brutee 17 months ago

Thanks. That is how I got some of the circuits to work. Haven't narrowed it for sure but the microwave and AC always trip it. Could there be internal ground issues with the AC unit or microwave?


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Randy Godwin 17 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Brutee, Have you tried turning all of the breakers off before plugging the camper into the shore power and then flipping them on one at a time to see which circuit is tripping the GFI? There's apparently a bad ground or short on one of the circuits and you may be able to narrow it down using the ab0ve method.

--RG


Brutee 17 months ago

I have a 2003 Keystone Sprinter travel trailer. When I connect to a 30 amp GFI power source the GFI consistently trips at the source. Sometimes just hooking up trips the circuit, but I cannot run the AC or microwave without tripping the source GFI. This happens at home or at the campground that provides GFI protected power. Everything works fine on non GFI power.


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Randy Godwin 17 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Bryan, it's not uncommon for the GFI to go bad. I see no harm in using a regular outlet to get the camper off the truck. You might try replacing the GFI first though.,


bryan 17 months ago

can I just put a regular plug in to load the trailor.


bryan 17 months ago

my son has a 2002 aljo I think he pluged into 110 gfi to take it off his truck and now a week later it keeps triping the gfi even with trailor breakers offneed help


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello again ED, pleased to see you return. This does seem to be a real puzzler, especially since you are getting different voltages from the same lug on the battery disconnect relay. Have you tried disconnecting the power connector from the generator to see if that makes a difference? I assume you've checked the voltage at the relay already so I suppose you've ruled that out, along with a possibly bad relay. You might try jumping the relay to see if it is indeed working properly.

I also assume you've checked the ground on the generator and in the 12 volt power panel. Just trying to narrow down things you may have already thought of so far. Don't give up yet! :)

Randy


Ed 18 months ago

Hi Randy,

Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I just did an extensive continuity check on the grounding of the vehicle, and the negative side soes not seem to be an issue. The batteries are charging and the fuse panel is showing 12+ on all circuits, but nothing that runs on 12 volts is running. The two times it came on intermittently had me optimistic that it was a ground issue, but now I'm back to a B+ issue. I'm only reading 3-5 volts at the power connector on the generator, when it should be 12+, but I'm getting 12+ at the power distribution center fuses, and the 120V side is working fine. This confuses me, as both the cable to the generator and the cable to the power distribution center come from the same lug on the battery disconnect relay. I've done years of 12V work on automobiles, but this is an enigma.


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

When it rains--or perhaps a garden hose will do the trick instead--and the power goes off, start at the shore hook-up and check the voltage there, Carol. If you're getting power there then go to the main 110 volt power panel and see if get voltage where the pigtail for the shore line connects to the power panel.

If everything goes off--including the 12 volt lights and vent fans-- I suspect the short will be either shore plug in or the main power panel. Let me what you find and /or ask for more info. :)

Randy


carol 18 months ago

we have a 1991 jamboree having trouble with wiring shorts every thing is fine but if it rains everything goes off when the rain stops and about a half hour later everything is ok again we think it is a short but how do you find it?


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi John, this really sounds like a bad ground on the 12 volt battery as the items you mentioned are controlled by the battery and converter. Both the fridge and HW heater thermostats are 12 volts as are the steps. Clean the battery ground where it connects with the camper frame good, both the battery ground and where it contacts the frame. You should get 13+ volts at the battery if the converter is working properly

Let me know if this doesn't solve the problem and we'll go from there. :)

Randy


John 18 months ago

no power to ref on rv. Check 110 outlet by ref and there is 110 volts there. Did check the converter and it is giving me 12 volt supply out of converter. It is a two way ref. 110 volt or gas neither one will work. There is no power to control panel inside of camper. Outside by plugin there is a circuit board were you would plug the wire to start the gas. Below this is a junction cannot get any readings here either. They did have a new control board plugged this in and still did not work. Can you tell me where I need to look next. Also the gas on water heater is not working. And the steps will not go back in. They could be on the same circuit but not sure if they are or not.


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi George, sorry to respond so late but I had a death in the family yesterday. I haven't had much experience with FEMA trailers, but I can understand how they would operate without a battery. More than likely the power converter is indeed the culprit if the 12 volt lights do not operate and the GFI outlets do.

Randy


George 18 months ago

Hi Randi, have a fema trailer for about two years never had a battery but was able to run off generator with no problem but all at once the converter or part of quit working no power except to the GFIs. Checked and found out that some fema trailers are able to bypass the use of batteries. Everyone is saying that I have to have a 12volt battery but I didn't before this problem.


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Sarah, are these lights 12 volts? It may be the power converter fan making the noise. The fridge thermostat also works on the 12 volt system.

Randy


Sarah ByBee 18 months ago

Hi Randy,

I just purchased a 1999 21C Nash Norwood.

All the coverings on the lights had holes in the middle of them.

I plugged it into the 120 volt (house). When I turn on more than 1 light a painful high pitch ringing/humming happens.

My poor dog about died. I now know why the covers have holes in them from people hitting the lights trying to get it to stop.

My question is why would this happen?

P.S. the humming is 10X worse when the refrigerator is on and you turn on more than 2 lights.


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

I'm very pleased you found the bad ground, John. Thanks for returning and reporting what you found out. Check out my other RV repair hubs if you run into any other RV related problems. :)

Randy


John 18 months ago

Randy thanks for getting me on track with my lights, Found 4 places where it was connected to frame. Wouldn't you know that the last one was the one that did the trick.


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Randy Godwin 18 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi John, sounds like the converter is not the problem so this leaves the batteries suspect. Often merely cleaning the battery ground where it is attached to the steel frame--and the spot on the frame itself--will cure all sorts of weird problems with the 12 volt DC system.

Also, make sure the fluid level in the batteries--if they aren't the sealed variety--isn't too low. The clicking may indicate the batteries are requiring the converter to cycle on and off because they can't hold a charge. This is merely and educated guess, however. Ask for more inf if needed.

--RG


John 18 months ago

My lights in rv flicker using 12 volts but when I plug in my camper the lights work ok. Also if I start up my rv everything works ok. Also by my extra batteries there is a clicking sound by the solenoid. What is the problem solenoid or converter I have a Jayco HD rv/


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Randy Godwin 19 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Kathi, you are right about everything but the receptacles and perhaps some of lights use ordinary 110 volt bulbs. If the receptacles do not work then it could be something else. If only the 12 volt items do not work--some lights overhead vent fans fridge and perhaps the AC depending on if you have a wall mount thermostat--the battery is probably at fault.

Let me know if I can assist you further if my info doesn't help. :)

Randy


Kathi Chesnut 19 months ago

Randy,

We just purchases at 2004 Mallard travel trailer. We pulled it home yesterday and plugged it into the 120 volt (house) to load it up and get the refrigerator cooled. While checking everything out all of a sudden the lights started dimming and the alarm was going off. My husband made sure the propane was off and the heat was turned off. What we had running at this time were the lights, refrigerator, radio and TV. My husband is of course freaking out and saying we will never go camping again...I have be reading through all of your questions/comments above and hope I have the correct determination here...

1. The lights and receptacles run off the battery.

2. The converter coverts the land power (or generator) to the battery which will charge the battery to run the lights and receptacles.

3. Even if your are plugged in to the land power...the battery still runs the lights and the receptacles.

4. If your battery is not charged properly (or old...ours is dated 2004) then the converter cannot even charge the battery.

My determination is that we need a new battery.

Please tell me I am correct.

Thank you.


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Randy Godwin 19 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Bob, try looking where the furnace is located. It will probably attach to the controls in a junction box of some sort. Good luck! :)


Bob F 19 months ago

Half of the wire was still connected to the breaker box the other half was rapped around the axle. Cant see where it connects to the unit. would it be right to the motor ? The tire when it blew tore open the wheel house.


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Randy Godwin 19 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

I'm afraid so Bob, unless you can get a wiring schematic from the dealer or maker of the RV. It may be where it connects to the breaker box or to the unit itself. Sorry I cannot be of more assistance.

RG


Bob F. 19 months ago

I have a 1995 StarCraft Leasurestar 27ft travel trailer.Blown tire ripped out 12 ft of electric 110 wire. The only thing that doesn't work is the heater. Blower moter doesn't come on .Where does the wire connect to the blower motor?Do I have to pull out the unit to connect it or see where it connects?


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Randy Godwin 20 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Todd, you will need a 30 amp fuse or circuit breaker box and you can probably get by with using 14 gauge wire for installing the lights and outlets you will require. This goes for the AC also if it's going to be on a circuit by itself. I'd suggest having more outlets than you think you would need while installing them. it's better to have too many than not enough.

Please ask for more info if you need it, and thanks for the question. :)

Randy


CTodd Crawford 20 months ago

We have a 1948 Travelaire 12 foot trailer. It is gutted and needs all new wiring and I need direction on the wiring design. We will need several interior lights and outlets and will have a small window a/c. We will use an ice box instead of a refrigerator. We won't need an electric pump. What layout would you suggest? What considerations am I leaving out? Thanks for any help!


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Randy Godwin 20 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Judy, if you are using the trailer only as a sleeper, then a power box is not necessary. I would however, replace all of the old wire with new to be sure of the safety factor.


JUDY 20 months ago

I have a 1959 Ahola 15' Travel Trailer that has been gutted, but the wall are all still standing. The electrical cords have been cut, and so it need all new wiring. I don't want to dismantle it, should I connect all the wiring up again or try to thread new wire throughout. I will not be powering any appliances, it is going to be a sleeper only. It will have two outlets, and three lights. Do I need to have a power box? And if I wanted to hook up to a battery, what would I need to do.


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Randy Godwin 20 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

No problem, TJ!If you have any more RV related problems, please click on my photo at the top of the page to see my other RV repair hubs. Enjoy camping! :)


TJ McCubbin 20 months ago

Okay, thank you! We are pretty new to the camping scene so we were unsure. Thanks so much for your help!


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Randy Godwin 20 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

None of these items will work unless you have an onboard generator to power them, TJ.


TJ McCubbin 20 months ago

We were going to use the air conditioner, lights, TV, blue ray player, and microwave.


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Randy Godwin 20 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello TJ! Are you planning to use just the lights on the 12 volt system? If the answer is yes then should be no problem with the one battery you mentioned if it's fully charged. Using the fridge on propane will only pull a small amount of amperage from the battery to power the thermostat.

Randy


TJ McCubbin 20 months ago

Hello Randy,

I have a question for you. My husband and I have a 36ft camper. We have been camping many times at campsites, but we would love to go out on my parents' farm. We are trying to figure out what type of battery we will need to run the entire camper for a weekend. We were thinking of purchasing Vmaxtanks Vmaxslr125 AGM Deep Cycle 12v 125ah SLA rechargeable Battery and a Smart Charger to go with it. Would this battery pull everything by itself or would we need an additional one?


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Randy Godwin 22 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Carl, if it's a cooling fan you shouldn't disconnect it because it is necessary to keep the cooling system operating properly. You should be able to replace it fairly easy and inexpensively as it may be a plug-in fan. Apparently it is drawing too many amps for the converter to keep the battery properly charged because of bad bearings in the fan motor.

Let me know if I'm either right or wrong in my assessment if you don't mind. :)

Randy


Carl McBride 22 months ago

There is a fan on our 2011 Rockwood travel trailer fridge. It runs for 7 second, off 5 seconds, then repeats. It sucks the life out of the battery. Can we disconnect it somehow?


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Randy Godwin 22 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Yo Mxrx, Are you using a regular extension cord or are you referring to the pigtail on the RV? Using a small extension cord can cause the breaker to kick as it cannot carry enough amps--especially with the AC in operation--without overloading the system.

After trying a heavy duty 30+ amp extension cord, and if the breaker still kicks off, then get back to me. Thanks for the question. :)


mxrx13 22 months ago

I am thinking I might need a new converter...What it has now is a 32A-120v/12v-bw6332 the part number is 083208-01-000 Maybe I could update it to Progressive Dynamics (PD9245CV) 45 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard.


mxrx13 22 months ago

Hi I have a 1995 Winnebago warrior and when I plug it in to 120V at a campground or at home it ends up tripping the breaker that I plug it into, it especially happens if you turn on the roof air. I think it might dangerous because the extension cord is quite warm. Its confusing me because its designed to be plugged in to 120V?


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Randy Godwin 23 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Ed--If the converter is working correctly you should be reading 13+ volts at the battery. However, if none of the 12 volt circuits are working the converter wouldn't be charging the batteries as they would not have a drain on them. Have you checked the ground in the 12 volt fuse panel yet? I cannot think of why the whole system is inoperable unless the main fuse is blown or a bad ground is causing the problem. Does your converter have a ground wire?


Ed 23 months ago

Hi Randy,

I'm getting 12V at the fuses of the converter, as well as reading 12V at the fuses with different ground points. Good 12V at the batteries. No power to the 12 volt system (lights, fridge, etc) at all from either. Thinking about what you said in your last post, I should see 12V at the battery terminals with the batteries disconnected and the shoreline connected, correct? If so, would this just indicate that the battery charger is working, or that the whole system is working?


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Randy Godwin 23 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Ed,

If I'm understanding you correctly then you are getting power from the converter but not at the batteries? You didn't say in your last post whether you had checked the voltage at the batteries or not.

The batteries usually completes the next to last link before the 12 volt DC fuse or breaker panel, with all of the circuits being the last. There may be a break or short from the converter to the batteries. You should be able to track this down if so.

Don't give up, and as always, let me know if I can further assist you with your problem.

RG


Ed 23 months ago

Randy,

Thanks for the reply. After you mentioned the ground, it sounded like it would be the answer, especially when I tried starting the generator during one of the periods when the power was on, and had an immediate shutdown of all 12 volt power. I crawled under the RV today, checked the chassis ground connections-all were tight, no rust, not rot through. I cleaned everything with a wire brush and made sure everything was back together nice and tight. No go when I tried throwing the switch. I'm getting a good 12 volts (13-15) at the power converter distribution under the refrigerator when plugged into the shoreline, and even checked a few different ground points successfully, and the house batteries are brand new. Not really sure where to go from here.


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Randy Godwin 24 months ago from Southern Georgia Author

Linda, follow the pigtail that plugs into the outside electrical outlet. The other end connects to the breaker box.


Linda 24 months ago

I have a 1988 Automate and just blew 4 outlets. I don't know where the electrical box is. Can you help?


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Ed,

Have you checked the fluid level in the batteries? If the level is low the batteries will not hold a charge properly. Also, you need to clean the negative battery cables where they are bolted to the steel frame and also the frame itself because a bad ground can cause the problem your are presently experiencing.

If the converter is working properly, you should be getting around 13+ volts at the batteries if checked with a multimeter. Feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


Ed 2 years ago

Hi Randy,

I've got a new to me 1992 Winnebago Adventurer. I have an intermittent problem with the 12 volt system. It doesn't work, either on the in house batteries, or on shoreline (110 is fine on shoreline) but if I let it sit (days to weeks), it will eventually get power. My best guess is the battery disconnect relay is bad, and just sitting, it will randomly throw, but I figured that I'd run it by someone with a little more experience in this area.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Robbie, does everything else on the 12 volt system work properly? By this I mean the lights, vent fans, and fridge thermostat. Unless the furnace is a manually operated type with no fan, it may not work on 12 volt power alone. Can you give me a bit more info?

Randy


robbie 2 years ago

Randy i have a 2005 sportsman ultralight tt when we have tt plug in to 110v everything works but when we unplug 110 to 12v the carbon noxied detector cosntley beefs what could calls this and can the furnace run of 12v this is our frist tt that we have own the battery is good and takes charge thanks for your input


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi James, yes thee should be a battery to ensure proper amperage as several items get power from the 12 volt system. Along with some of the lights, the fridge and sometimes the AC thermostats are powered by this same system.

When more power than the converter provides is needed the battery keeps the system from tripping the breakers as you've described. Feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


James Burgess 2 years ago

Randy,

I'm an RV newbie. I have a couple questions if you don't mind. We are staying in my father in laws early 2000s River Forest 29 BHS while we have a home built. We are running on shore power. Should I a battery connected? There is no battery connected but looks like there is a spot for one by the Propane tanks in the front. Next problem we are having is that the lights start dimming and the power shuts off...little white box on the floor make an annoying sound. Flip breakers for a while and the power comes back on. I think it has something to do with the water heater element running. I've ordered a new element and anode rod. Are there other things I could check to gets this squared away? I really appreciate your help!


Josh Stinson 2 years ago

Thanks Randy! I'll give it a try. Let you know soon as I can.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

It should be fine to use the charger with the converter out, and if not, no danger to the system should occur. I do believe the battery provides the charge to the 12 volt breakers or fuses and the converter keeps the battery at optimum charge. I suppose someone may have altered the system otherwise but it is still worth a try.


josh stinson 2 years ago

I have the converter out at the moment. An electronic engineer was looking at it, but said it was in repairable. Could I try it without the convertor installed or would it need to be installed? Also when it is installed it trips the breaker and blew the stuffings out of a capacitor . thanks


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Josh, the converter usually powers the thermostat on the fridge and some of the lights also. If you have a wall mounted thermostat for the AC and heat, they are also powered by the converter. Have you tried a battery charger in place of the converter to see if this would provide enough power to operate the 12 volt system?

Randy


josh stinson 2 years ago

Randy, my converter has been replaced a couple of years ago and only used a few times since. It has gone out again. They are very costly. It's in a2000 innsbrook 30 amp pull behind. Can I set it up to only run on 110 and just use the battery for the slide? Any help would be appreciated!


Mel Davis 2 years ago

Thanks Randy. It ended up being a combination of a couple things I believe. Cleaned and replaced frame grounds and also the in-line thermal circuit breaker. Good as new.


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RobertConnorIII 2 years ago from Michigan

love do it yourself information-thanks randy!


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Mel,

Have you cleaned the negative battery cable where it is connected to the steel frame of the trailer? If not, try using some sandpaper on the frame and on the connection itself to ensure a good ground from the battery to the breaker box and converter. This a common problem I encounter often from older models of campers. Usually not a big problem. :)

Randy


Mel Davis 2 years ago

Hi Randy. Just bought a used 98 Forest River Flagstaff 21RB Travel Trailer. Everything works fine while plugged in and running on AC current. However when unplugged I get nothing. Deep Cycle RV battery is new and has a full charge. Ckd all the fuses and all are ok. No circuit breakers tripped. I worked my way down the line from the battery and tested the positive feed wire and got power but when I check the positive wire where it connects to the converter I get nothing. Bad ground? Or some other idea? An older motor home I owned had an actual 12 volt switch that had to be thrown in order to operate the 12 volt lights and 12 volt accessories in it but I don't see a switch in this travel trailer so I am assuming its supposed to be automatic. Thanks!


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Let me know if I can help you out with the lighting problem, gottaloveit. And welcome to HubPages. I hope you do well here. :)

Randy


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gottaloveit2 2 years ago

I just moved over to HubPages from Squidoo. In looking to find out why my trailer lights don't work, your article came up first in Google and I can see why. You're a fantastic writer. I'm off to troubleshoot now.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Michelle,

yes, you do seem to have a battery or converter problem. If your battery or batteries are low on water this can easily be fixed by topping up the fluid level in them. If an ordinary battery charger is used and the problem clears up then a new converter is needed.

If you have a wall mounted AC thermostat and the fridge isn't working properly, this another sign of a bad converter. first check the fluid level in the batteries before trying out a battery charger.

Feel free to ask for more info if this advice doesn't help you with your problem. :)

Randy


Michelle 2 years ago

Hello! I have been having some problems with my camper and have read all the comments. A few weekends ago my camper lights stared going very very dim and my air (thermostat would not kick it back on). As well the refrigerator check light was on. All of the outlets continued working the whole time. We woke up he next morning and everything worked just fine. We are seasonal campers at a campground, and when we left I unplugged from shore power just in case. I did quite a bi of research and learned about the convertor and all the things that run on battery. The next weekend I plugged he camper in and everything worked just fine all 3 days here. When we left I kept the camper plugged into shore power. We went out tonight to camp and nothing worked at all except for all the outlets, inside and out, and microwave. I am pretty sure this is a battery or convertor issue, Correct? I am very novice and not sure where to start next. If I try to charge the battery or doesn’t work does that mean the convertor is bad?? Remember I m novice and a girl. LOL!! Can you talk me thru checking if it is battery, convertor or another problem?? Thanks in advance…


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Dana--I too have two older campers--a 59 Scotty and a 69 Phoenix-- with house type breaker boxes. These work just as well as those in present day RVs and campers. Good luck with your Scamp renovation! :)

Randy


Dana 2 years ago

Hi Randy, I have a 13' 1973 ECO (Scamp) that we have gutted and starting from scratch. Boyfriend bought breakers for a home breaker box. I was not sure if there was a special breaker needed for all the electric conversions. Thanks for your reply.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

In what capacity, Dana? In some older campers, house type breakers are indeed used in the correct 110 volt breaker box. Usually a 30 or 50 amp breaker box was used for the 110 volt AC service, but today's RVs utilize special breakers in breaker boxes designed for them.

RG


Dana 2 years ago

Can you use a home breaker for an rv?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Bob-- unless you are using a heavy duty cord this may be your problem. An AC pulls a lot of amps and along with the converter and other electrical items on the RV, it may have shorted out the cord.

Try leaving the AC off and using another cord to see if any of the other 110 volt items will operate. If so, the cord is not heavy enough to run everything at once and you need one with heavier wire to handle the load.


Bob 2 years ago

Randy,

I'm at home using a regular 120 cord.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Bob, are plugged into a campsite receptacle? Make sure the breaker on the receptacle isn't tripped. The same goes for the receptacle at home.


Bob 2 years ago

I have a 2007 travel trailer Coachmen-spirit of American. The air conditioner ran for about 20 minutes and the power totally stop to the trailer. I checked the fuses and breakers and the power will not work. What else should I check.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Thanks Shawn, I'll dance at your wedding :)

RG


Shawn Barton profile image

Shawn Barton 2 years ago from Oregon

It needed a new ground at the fuse box :)


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Happy to hear this, Shawn. If I might ask, what did you find out to solve the problem? it may help others with their own problem at some time. Thanks! :)

Randy


Shawn Barton profile image

Shawn Barton 2 years ago from Oregon

Got it fixed thank you


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Shawn--You really need someone with a digital multimeter to check out your 12 volt system for shorts or bad connections. This goes for the 110 volt AC system also.


Shawn Barton profile image

Shawn Barton 2 years ago from Oregon

If it needs a ground how can I go about doing that


Shawn barton 2 years ago

Just checked it all grounded good I noticed when I tryed to check the fuses in the fus box that there was no ground there


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Check the battery ground where it connects to the steel frame. If it's corroded or rusty it may not work correctly.


shawn Barton 2 years ago

I have the battery's plunged in but still not working the battery's are new please help lol


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Shawn, if your AC has a wall mounted thermostat it is indeed controlled by the 12 volt system and won't operate without battery power. I hope this info helps. :)

Randy


Shawn Barton 2 years ago

Hey randy I have a 1992 wilderness and I the ac won't work at all the fan won't work the compresser won't kick on do I have to have my battery's plunged in for the ac to work??


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Sounds like a problem with the shore/generator switch, JM. Have you checked the voltage on the switch with a multimeter to see if power is getting through the switch?


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Kevin, what does the LPS stand for? Liquid Propane System?


JM 2 years ago

Quick questions, I am new to this Rv stuff... We recently went camping in a self contained campground and turned on our generator to run the A/C for about an hour then shut the A/C and generator off, about an hour later when we returned I went to turn it on again and the generator will turn on but we can't turn on the A/C, microwave or use any of the outlets. The lights don't even get brighter with the generator on like before. We replaced the GFCI outlet and it still is working, any suggestions? Everything works great when plugged in to an extension cord at home. We have a 2001 Eclipse Attitude Toy hauler


JM 2 years ago

Quick questions, I am new to this Rv stuff... We recently went camping in a self contained campground and turned on our generator to run the A/C for about an hour then shut the A/C and generator off, about an hour later when we returned I went to turn it on again and the generator will turn on but we can't turn on the A/C, microwave or use any of the outlets. The lights don't even get brighter with the generator on like before. We replaced the GFCI outlet and it still is working, any suggestions? Everything works great when plugged in to an extension cord at home.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Jerry, I cannot say if the set-up you mention is illegal as it depends on where the RV's are being powered and by whom. Apparently the system worked okay as long the amperage was sufficient.

Randy


Kevin 2 years ago

Hey randy. I pulled my camper home, the fridge was running. Noticed when I got home the fridge was off and lps alarm was going sounding. I disconnected batteries and hooked them back up and it won't go off. It's been a while now. And now no electricity will work in the trailer..... Any hints? 2003 vanguard


Jerry-got burned 2 years ago

Randy,I have a very importain question and would like to be able to send you a picture of how my 5th wheel trailer was hard wired to a portable cat generator with 10 other trailers.is it legal to cut off the end of a power cord from your trailer and hard wire to a generator ?when not all the trailers pull the same amount of power? some were 50amp and some were 30amp.please let me know if I can send you a picture of what they did.thank you very much.Jerry


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Possibly, Patrick. Depending on the type thermostat your AC is controlled by.


Patrick 2 years ago

No. Shouldn't it be 24 vac?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Could be either the thermostat or the control board, Patrick. Have you checked the thermostat voltage yet?


Patrick 2 years ago

I have a 2006 Jayco Jayflight with 30 amp service. When I turn my air cond to COOL, AUTO, HIGH, and it tries to come on, the fan starts to come on and in about a second, the fan shuts off and the furnance blower comes on. If I put it on COOL, FAN on LOW and it comes on fine. I was told to check the battery, so I did and had 13.1 volts. Took the battery off for a few days and without it hooked up still read 13 volts. Even found one the prongs on the main plug discolored from heat so I replaced it. Any suggestions?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

I suspect a bad wiring job by the park electricians, Mary. Make sure you get the bill if the dealership finds it's their fault. I'll bet they accidentally swapped a ground with the hot wire while making the 50 amp hook-up. Let me know what you find out if it isn't a problem, Mary. I'm curious as too the cause. Thanks for the question and your time.:)

Randy


Mary Vannoy 2 years ago

Yes we have used the camper several times, all with 50 amp service.

The trailer park maintains the story that there was no fault on their end .....,

But they refused to alow 2 other campers to plug in that night and they had "electriticions" out there the next morning early!!!

We are currently in route to drop our camper of at the dealership.

Thank you


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Mary, have you used your RV at a site before with 50 amp service? Did the main breaker, or any of the smaller breakers, trip in the RV? I suspect the park site breaker at the moment if you haven't had trouble before. Did you check the voltage on the site breaker itself?

Randy


Mary Vannoy 2 years ago

We pulled into a trailer park last night in our 2014 V-light. They had to wire a 50 amp service for us.., when we plugged in and turned on our AC everything fried!!!

There was a loud pop followed by smoke and an alarm.

Trailer park states that everything is right on their end.

We stayed in a hotel last night..., waiting on the warranty company to open!

Anyone ever had to deal with this situation????


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Sounds like a bad battery ground, Bryan. If so, clean the on-board battery ground well where it contacts the steel frame of the RV. This would explain why the 12 volt lights went out when you unplugged from the truck. If this doesn't solve the problem then let me know and we'll go from there.

Randy


Bryan tipton 2 years ago

I have a 2008 35' Cameo RV. I just had my roof replaced and this weekend we went to the beach which was the first trip since I had the roof done. When I unplugged from my truck the 12 volt lights went out. When I plugged into 110 they came back on. I checked my battery and it was charged, it's 3 months old. Also my 5500 watt Onan Generator that is on board would not start. Please advise!


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey Jimmy, I couldn't find your previous question even though I looked for it. I get so many RV questions every day on my numerous repair articles I sometimes forget who asked what. I think I've got 'old timers' disease! lol! Refresh my memory if you don't mind. :)

Randy


Jimmy 2 years ago

It all works when I have shore line connected. I borrowed a generator from family for the camping trip we took. Nothing but the chassis battery works as far as battery power is concerned. I have all the factory manuals, but they have much to be desired.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Wonderful news, Ruth Ann! Sorry it wasn't a more inexpensive fix but then, it could also have been worse. Enjoy the camping season and feel free to check out my other RV repair hubs. Thanks for the question and for relating the fix too. :)

Randy


Ruth Ann 2 years ago

Randy,

You were right. We replaced the relay circuit board in the AC and now it is up and running. Thanks!


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

That is very puzzling, Leidon! Obviously it's a problem with the campground power in some manner. Was it the same campground you used before when the fridge acted up?


Leidon Eames 2 years ago

Randy,we got home from campground Tuesday. Plugged her in to house 110 and wala...she's sitting at about 39 degrees! We haven't tried running on propane for any length of time yet. Book says should run on propane 9 hours to get to desired temp. We will give that a try in the upcoming days and also run on generator to see what happens.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Tomas--I'd think it was referring to a low 12 volt DC power supply. The thermostat on the fridge is powered by the 12 volt DC system. Possibly a power converter problem.

Randy


tomas 2 years ago

Randy how you doing if my refrigerator keeps telling me lo dc what does that mean


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Very strange, Leion. If not for the fact it works well at home I would think it was a thermostat problem. Have you tried it using the propane setting?


Leidon Eames 2 years ago

Well it seems that even after being plugged into it's very own shore power over night and all day, the fridge has not changed. It seems to be holding around 50 degrees though (safe is 34-40). The freezer is at a "soft freeze". It's not as bad as it was 2 weeks ago when we were camping for 3 days (fridge temp rose to 60 degrees then) but it's worse than if it's parked at home on 110volts in the sun with no air conditioning running. And we are as level as possible then as we are now.

Maybe she doesn't like camping!


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Please do let me know, Leidon. This has got my curiosity aroused. :)


Leidon Eames 2 years ago

Randy, we have just now plugged fridge straight to shore power, will let u know tomorrow how it goes over night. Yes this is very strange.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Have you tried running the fridge from another outlet outside in the camp shore power panel? Using an extension cord, of course. This does seem strange if the fridge worked okay at home.


Txchiktraveler 2 years ago

Hubby checked circuit breaker on the main power panel that read "portable appliances 20 amp" which showed 116 volts. There was not one just marked fridge . Note: turning off air conditioner for 5 hours didn't seem to change anything.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Have you checked the voltage of the fridge breaker in the main power panel--110 volt AC--using a digital multimeter, Tx?


Txchiktraveler 2 years ago

Randy thanks for the fast reply. All lights work. Was just using 1 AC unit which we turned off an hour ago to see if it helps.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Txchiktraveler--The fridge uses the 12 volt DC power to operate the thermostat. Are all of your lights working correctly? Do you have two AC units on your RV? Just trying to narrow the problem down a bit so any more info you can give me might help.

Randy


Txchiktraveler 2 years ago

Hey Randy, we have a "new to us" 1987 Pace Arrow class A motorhome. When we have it connected at home with 110-15 amp our refrigerator works fine (freezer freezes/bottom registers 40degrees on thermometer). But the 2 times we have taken it to a campground for 3 days and hook up to their 30 amp it DOES NOT work. The freezer starts defrosting and bottom temp starts climbing up. We have checked and rechecked to made sure the MH is level. The only thing different from home and campsite is the amps, the AC is running and there are a few grocery items in it. We are baffled as to what is going on. Any ideas?


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Canfieldcrs, do you still have power to the fridge and lights? If not it may be the power converter which is causing the problem.

Randy


canfieldcrs 2 years ago

Hello Randy,

We lost the power to our AC, Furnace as well as the electric part of the hot water heater. We replaced all fuses and checked the breakers - all is working. What else could this be?


Boomer 2 years ago

Just 1 ground fault is all I have found. I will put a meter on it.

Thanks Randy.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Jimmy, when you say nothing works, you mean you don't have 12 volt or 120 volt power? No lights, or no power from the outlets either? Check all of the ground wires in the power panels--both !2 volt DC and 120 volt AC--as well as the ground wires from the batteries to the steel frame of the RV.

Are you connected to a shore line or trying to power it from the generator? I'm trying to eliminate the most common problems to begin with. More info from you may help me figure this one out.

Randy


Jimmy 2 years ago

I cannot get anything in my 96 Winnebago Adventurer to work. I replaced the batteries and they are charged. I have to use the rv in 2 days. I don't know what to check. All I did was change the fuel pump on the generator. Then I discovered the batteries were bad.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

I suggest you check the problematic outlets with a digital multimeter instead of using a test light, Boomer. This may be a bad ground connection but I'm not sure at this point. Any more ground fault circuits in the RV?

Randy


Boomer 2 years ago

Hey Randy, I have a 2002 Jayco 28 ft C class. I have electrical problems. I have power at the ground fault where the coffee pot plugs up. Power in the bedroom, all lights work throughout. Power at the receptacle where the frig plugs into outside. Frig will not come on inside. ( I replaced the board thinking that was my problem). Air Cond and Microwave works. No power in bath, kitchen counter, the dinette or the basement receptacles. I have checked all breakers and fuses. I put a test light on all breakers. Seems to be ok. At a loss, can you help?


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Not a clue, Shari. Dutchman dealers should be able to tell you.


shari 2 years ago

any idea where the thermal breaker is located ?


shari 2 years ago

ok where are ya lol . we have looked all over for this relay but like i said the book they gave us is a joke so we are currently looking for a real manual


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Sorry Shari, I'm not familiar with any RV repair services in Jacksonville. It may be a relay of some sort but I can't say for sure without havinng access to the RV.

Randy


shari 2 years ago

the battery mishap was the only thing that happened and the camper was plugged in at the time as we were preparing the fridge for food for the trip, it was not a rv generator it was from our home ,it did not blow the breakers in the camper only the fuses, and the everything ran fine on the generator for about 4 hours except the radio it never did come back on . thank you for trying to :-) got any sugestions on where to take it in Jacksonville florida


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

There may be a bad relay causing the problem Shari, unfortunately I'm not privy to the electrical system on many RVs as there are so many makes and types. Also RV generators are controlled by different types of switching controls on different campers also. Two blown 30 amp fuses seems to indicate a bad overload. How did the short occur exactly? Shorting the battery should have blown the 12 volt breakers, or fuses, at the very worst.


shari 2 years ago

when he arc'ed the battery (when he put it on to leave ) he said he heard something pop/click also the camper was plugged in when he did it with the radio on at that time the radio also stopped working , and after inspecting all the breakers and fuses we could find the only thing popped were the two push in type 30 amp fuses we replaced and even when it killed the 2 generators those did not pop again . in reading through the joke of a book they gave us with the camper the only thing that described what it was doing was in the power center section and named some kind of thermal relay ?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Shari--There should be no danger in plugging the RV in as the breakers in the main panel, along the one you are plugging into at home, should trip if there is a bad short anywhere in the RV.


shari 2 years ago

we have not plugged it back in yet we just got back from dry camping and kind of afraid to . yes we looked for a reset button on the generator and there isn't one, just the circuit breaker buttons and none of them were even popped


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Shari. Does the power work when RV is plugged into the campground outlet? Have you checked for a reset button on the generator? A bit more info may help narrow the problem down.

Randy


Shari 2 years ago

HELP

we just bought a 2002 dutchman classic toy hauler when my husband went to hook up the battery a wire touched something wrong and it arced (sp?) he said he heard some thing pop when we got to the campground and hooked up to the generator everything ran fine for about 4 hrs then intermittently everything would go on and off then all of the sudden nothing ! and the generator shut off he went out to restart the generator it started and ran fine but put out NO voltage ,sooo we went and bought another generator and the same thing happened !!! any ideas ??


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello John Deere 1953, great moniker by the way. It's entirely possible the campground you referenced may have problems with low voltage campsite wide, but do you notice other RVs experiencing the same surges in time with yours? It should be easy to notice at night if this is the case.

If not, then the problem my be your power converter cutting on and off trying to keep the batteries fully charged. If your batteries aren't sealed, then check to be sure the fluid levels are topped up as low fluid levels can cause the converter to kick on and off in a similar manner. Hope this info helps you out.

RG


JohnDeere1953 2 years ago

I have a 2003 Jayco Eagle fifth wheel (24 ft.). When plugged in at a campground my lights go dim and then bright and dim again. Can the draw on the campground's electric supply cause this? That is what the maintenance man told me but I want to be sure that my unit is safe. Thanks.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Thanks for relating what the problem was, dr140. Others may profit by what you discovered and save a few bucks and some frustration. :)

--RG


dr140 2 years ago

Found problem,thanks. Grnd on extension chord was not making up at receptacle, took a little ohming with a meter to find it. Three wire hook up on 30 amp service,120 circuit, neutral circuit, equipment ground circuit. When you bond the rv panel neutral with the equipment grnd at RV frame you create a ground loop back to house source where neutral and grounds of house panel are bonded together. If you're with me, I would think neutral through RV would be isolated all the way back to house source along with RV equipment grnd isolated back to house source, not bonded together at RV frame. Since they are bonded at RV frame that puts " unbalance" load on frame. When you lose grnd connection the frame then becomes energized creating a shock hazard between the RV and earth grnd.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

I'm not sure what you're asking, dr140.


dr140 2 years ago

Rg, thanks , for responding. Did what you suggested. In RVs, is the neutral circuit suppose to be isolated just as subpanels are?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@dr140--Check all grounds first, and then turn of the breakers one at a time while checking to see if you're still getting voltage between the frame and earth ground. Be sure the shore power is properly grounded into the power panel also. Sometimes the grounds are not making proper contact. Feel free to ask for more info if these tips don't help.

--RG


dr140 2 years ago

Bought new heartland fifth wheel,when plugged in at home, getting shocked. Did some checks on my side.chords. ..ohming and so on. I'm getting 45 to 50 volts between the unit frame and earth ground.any suggestions to trouble shoot.


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Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Sorry to take so long responding, Shannon. Do you mean the trailer shocks you when you are outside, inside, or both?


Shannon 2 years ago

I have an 84 Terry travel trailer and recently it shocks you I know that this is a short but how do I track it down


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Tommy, it's possible the 3 fuses reading 7.8 volts may be coming off a resistor therefore reducing the voltage for some reason. I don't know what the fuse indicated by the w/n is representing. possibly something to do with the waste system.

If the converter is operating properly, it should read 13-15 volts at the battery when the RV is plugged into the shore power. Hope this helps you find the problem, but I suspect the battery is the culprit.

--RG


tommy 2 years ago

Randy my battery is bad for sure so I took it out and plugged to shore and voltmeter read at the terminal battery cables and read 7.8 volts I read at the first 4 fuses 13 volts then there are 3 accessory fuses read 7.8 volts so would this be converter going bad, radio, w/p guessing water pump and w/n no idea what this one is, these are the 3 accessory fuses. What is w/n? I don't wish to put a battery back in if I don't have to. (No need for one)Why are the first 4 main fuses reading 13 volts if the converter is going bad then the 3 accessory fuses reading 7.8 volts.

checked the 2 grounds,all good.thank you


tommy 2 years ago

Thank you, as soon as the snow stops I will check the grounds and let you know how it goes


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Tommy, thanks for reading and for your question. Since the radio doesn't work as well as when plugged into the tow vehicle, I suspect a bad ground wire(s) where the on-board battery ground wires connect to the steel frame or at the power converter.

These connections should be cleaned every season or so as they are notorious for causing 12 volt electrical problems when corroded.You might also test the camper on-board battery(s) to be sure they're holding a good charge. and to see how many volts the converter is putting out to the battery(s). Hope this info helps!

--RG


tommy 2 years ago

I have a 2000 wildwood I just bought and the radio comes on but acts as if it isnt getting enough power while camper is plugged in at house or campsites, but when I plug the pigtail into the back of my to tow, radio works fine


Milly 2 years ago

Thanks Randy, We'll check the voltage and/or the ground wire.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Milly, I suspect you may have a bad battery or batteries, or it could be a bad ground causing the problem as in Stan's case above. Running multiple lights may keep the converter going as it furnishes the refrigerator's thermostat with power. Check the battery voltage while the camper is unplugged to see if the batteries are holding a charge.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Stan, have you checked the batteries to see if they will hold a charge from the converter? This sounds as if the battery(s) are bad or that they are not grounded properly to the frame near the battery box.

The converter is apparently operating correctly if everything works while plugged into shore power, so check the batteries while the camper is not connected to shore power to see if they are holding a charge. Also, clean the battery ground cables where they contact the steel frame of the camper. A bad ground will cause this type problem.

Ask for more info if needed. :)

Randy


Milly 2 years ago

2006 Dutchman with a Norcold refrigerator. The refrigerator will not operate unless there are three interior trailer lights turned on. Swich one light off...the frig turns off. Makes it difficult to sleep with the lights on. Why won't the frig operate unless the lights are on.


Stan 2 years ago

Randy, I will try again, our 1995 Aljo fifth wheel campers inside and outside 12 volt lights will not work. This would not be running lights. I have 12 volts DC power on the board inside at the power supply but no power at the fuses. All lights and everything else works when we are plugged into 120 volts AC. What am I missing that I cant get 12 volts to produce?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

No MikeeO, not in most cases. The batteries store a needed charge to insure handling power surges.


mikeeO 2 years ago

can a motorhome run all of its power without the house batteries hooked up if using the 110v hook-up(30amp)?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Are you speaking of all the interior lights not working, Stan? Try jumping the lights to another fuse to see if there's a broken wire powering the lights. Or do you know which fuse powers the lights?

Randy


Stan 2 years ago

Hi Randy, We have a lighting problem with u

our 1995 Aljo 5th wheel camper. The lights will not come on. The battery has 13.5 volts The slide works with 12 volt DC along with the jacks. All the 12 volt fuses checked good. Checked grounds and they checked good. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


Malcom Kelley 3 years ago

Thanks Randy, New battery (2 weeks) will check ground connections. Thanks


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Malcom, I suspect the battery is either going bad or that you have a bad ground from the battery to the frame. If the lights work well when the converter is operating this also suggest a bad cell in the battery. Ask for more info if needed.

Randy


Malcom Kelley 3 years ago

Malcom, why do the lights flicker but when the converter fan turns on the lights become normal again. 30 amp service on this unit. Is the converter going bad??


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Tim, have you checked the heating element to see if it is burned out? Also, try running the fridge on propane and if it works properly on gas, this also will suggest a bad electric heating element. Make sure the fridge is level because it won't operate properly if not. Feel free to ask for more info if needed.


Tim 3 years ago

I have a 98 Thor 30 foot 5th wheel. My fridge isn't working at all.. no lights on the top or anything. I used my meter plug on the back is hot. 12 v to the bord. Both fuses on the bord are good. Breakers a good. Completely stumped.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Mandy, and thanks for stopping by. Yes, it seems your thermostat is malfunctioning the way you described it. You should have no problem replacing it if you check to see how many wires your unit requires to operate the system. Many RV AC/heating units use the same thermostat as used in a home system. Check with Home Depot or Lowe's first before going to an RV repair center. You'll save a few bucks doing so. Thanks for the question!

Randy


mandy 3 years ago

Does anyone know why a thermostat that has auto ignite for the heater/furnace would not come on unless the temperature is cranked all the way up to 90 degree's? It will not come on at all if the temp is set any lower. I thought maybe I need to replace it as it is the old style metal winding with magnet connect switch and looks like it's corroded some.?? If so, will any type of thermostat replacement work? Thanks,


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Malcom, I don't know much about these heaters, but the light probably indicates the presence of a 12 volt power source. As long as it operates properly I wouldn't worry about it.

Randy


Malcom Kelley 3 years ago

Randy, I have a 2007 Keystone TT, recently added heater for plumbing which operate on 13.5 volts DC. These units are by ultra heat,wired according to specs, however the 12 volt switch light stays on in both off and on position, Heaters work in the on pos. but will turn off in off position but light on switch stays on.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

No problem, Bill. Let me know if can assist you when you've checked the breakers. :)

--RG


Bill D. 3 years ago

Thanks Randy, I should have thought of that. I will check the breakers.

Thanks again for your help

Bill


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Bill, you really need to check the power panels with a volt meter to determine if the power converter is working on the 12 volt panel. The same goes for the 120 volt panel to discover which breaker powers the outlets which aren't working. Could be a bad breaker causing both problems if the converter is powered by the same breaker as the outlets.

Feel free to ask for more info if needed.

Randy


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Ken--Have checked to see of the light uses one or two bulbs?


bill d. 3 years ago

I have an old camper at our deer lease with recent electric problems. It is plugged into a 30 amp 110 source. Problem, the 12 volt system has quit working and the rear half of the trailers 110 volt is not working. I checked the fuses, they are o.k.. It has 3 breakers, different colors. The top breaker has a test button that doesn't move. The breakers are not tripped. Can you help me?


ken 3 years ago

1978 trailer ( prowler ) half the dome light work & the other half don't work with power or battery


Phyllis 3 years ago

Thank you very much...


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

The 12 volt fuse is obviously powering the thermostat, Phyllis. Perhaps a new thermostat will solve the problem unless the present one has a short or some loose screw connections in it. Check this first before replacing it.

Hope this helps. :)

_RG


Phyllis 3 years ago

Hey Randy, It is a 12 volt fuse.. it is the colored plastic type. I don't think the AC has a heat strip, we have a propane heat...


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Phyliss--There are usually 2 separate fuse or breaker panels. One each for both 12 volt DC and 120 volt AC systems. The 120 volt system operates everything using a standard outlet plug.

The 12volt system operates lights, vent fans, refrigerator and AC/Heat thermostats. The fuses in the 12 volt system are the same as used in auto fuse systems, either the glass type or colored plastic type. There are also 12 volt breakers in some RVs.

The 120 volt system uses either breakers or house type fuses in the panel. I'm trying to determine which electrical system is at fault or whether the AC itself is causing the problem. Does the AC have a heat strip to proved the heating for your camper?


Phyllis 3 years ago

Randy what is he difference in a 12 volt fuse or the breaker/fuse in the 120 volt panel. I wish I knew more about electical and could answer but I don't, I am learning as I got with the travel trailer. Maybe if you can tell me what the difference is I can answer. The thermostat is mounted on the wall inside the trailer...


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Phyllis. Is the fuse a 12 volt fuse or a breaker/fuse in the 120 volt panel? Also, is the thermostat mounted on the wall or on the rooftop mounted AC/Heat unit? A bit more info may help me assist you with the problem. :)


Phyllis 3 years ago

Hi Randy, I have a 2001 Gulfstream Conquest travel trailer. I am having issues with fuses blowing when we turn on the AC or the heat. We can turn the on fan from the thermostat and it works, but when we switch it over to the heat or air it blows the fuse. Any suggestions on what I could check.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Tim, and thanks for the question. I really don't have access to the trailer's specs, but it should be relatively easy to access the power panels to ascertain the 12 volt source, whether converter or inverter. My guess is it would be a power converter as it is commonly used by various makers of travel trailers.

It does sound like a power converter problem which may be checked at the on-board battery(s) when the system is being used. You should get at least 13-15 volts at the battery if the converter is working properly.

Please ask for more info if you need it.

Randy


Tim D 3 years ago

Randy, I have an '06 31 Foot Rockwood Travel trailer and seem to be having issues with my power. Lights are always dim on 110 & 12V, the more I turn on, the dimmer they get. If I have the AC on and turn on a 12V light, the AC turns off. I would also like to know if this particular trailer has an Inverter or just a converter? Please Help!!!!!:):)


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

I'm afraid I can't help you there, Grant. I'm really not that familiar with these type RV's. Sorry!

RG


Grant 3 years ago

I was planning on totally disconnecting the battery for the winter as we live in Canada. when I disconnected it, and used shore power, the solenoid just clicked. there is no manual with the trailer. what happens if you are boondocking with no shore power and your battery goes dead. You still must be able to lower the trailer somehow.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Grant--The power converter should supply enough power to lower the HILO even though the batteries are not fully charged.


Grant 3 years ago

Just wondering if you can lower a HILO trailer without the on board battery and just using shore power.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

What output does the generator have, Graham? How many volts and amps, for instance. It's more likely the generator isn't producing enough power to run everything. Have you used the generator before?

Randy


Graham Searle 3 years ago

We just purchased 2007 fleetwood hybrid trailer . We used a generator honda ex650 to power it up last night for about 3 hrs and then the power convertor / fuse panel started to smoke. I had it plugged in to a house receptical for a couple of days with no issues. Is it possible generator is putting out to much power ?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

The outlet has to be on a breaker by itself or either getting power from another outlet, Bill. If all of the 110 volt breakers are working correctly then I suspect a bad connection from another outlet on the same circuit. I'd check all of the outlets for a bad connection anyway. You can use the OHM feature on the multimeter to find where the wire is going to if all else fails.

RG


Bill 3 years ago

Hi Randy,

There are no other outlets near the outlet under the table. Closest outlets are in the front over the driver and passenger seats behind cabinets for the TV and electronics - two outlets and the on the other side of the RV in the kitchen above the sink. The outlet not working is mounted in the storage area under the seat . So I can access the rear of the outlet that goes to a junction box - checked connections there and measured here for voltage - none. The cable goes under the seat which is on a slide out and then disappears into the top of an outside storage compartment - no access- see a cable coming out of the top and then goes into the under chassis toward the center and goes behind a large plate- no access.

Have not checked connections in a junction box near the generator yet. Should I look at the wires behind outlets that work? Wish I had a wiring diagram. The outlet was being used to power an electric heater which has worked fine many times and never tripped a breaker.

Thanks Bill


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Bill. have you checked the adjacent outlets for bad connections on the wire going to the bad outlet. Since the other outlets seem to work okay, the bad outlet is on the end of the circuit or is on a circuit by itself. The latter probably isn't the case. Hope this helps you out.

Feel free to ask for more info if needed, Bill. :)

Randy


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Meagan. Are you sure the power converter is operating properly? Can you check the voltage to the onboard battery(s) while the RV is plugged into an outlet and let me know what you find?

The fridge probably uses the 12 volt electrical system to operate the thermostat so the converter would affect this also. Get back to me when you can regarding the power convert output.

Randy


Bill 3 years ago

Hi Randy,

I have a class C Gulfstream Conquest model 6296D.

The AC outlet under the dinette table no longer works. All other outlets work. The circuit breakers and fuses in the panel under the frig are all good. The electrical junction box near the outlet does not have AC. I tried the generator still no power to the outlet. I tried to trace the cable but couldn't see where it went. Did not see any cable damage under the RV. Tighten all connections in the circuit panel. At a loss at this point- also order one of your manuals - in transit. Any advise would be appreciated.

Bill


Megan 3 years ago

Hello, I have a 1996 Coachmen 5th Wheel. I have a can use the fridge while plugged into an outlet. If the fridge is only running on battery and propane it will not work. The water heater, lights and stove will work on propane only but the fridge will not. Now the fridge will work on propane as long as the camper is plugged into an outlet but the second you unplug the electric the light goes out to the fridge only. It will not light using a lighter or anything. Battery is new and propane is full.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Ruth,

Do you have an on board power converter to keep the batteries charged?

You shouldn't have to use the generator to charge the batteries at all if the power converter is working properly. What exactly is a Nook reader? Certainly not a tablet or Kindle because they only pull a miniscule amount of power. More info may help.

Randy


Ruth 3 years ago

Just bought a 2013 Aspen Trail Travel Trailer. The initial charge on the batteries last several days. However, if I charge my Nook reader, the batteries go dead within a few hours. In addition, the radio will come on all by itself. We recharge to full charge with a generator but then the charge will only last one day. The dealer is saying the nook pulls too much power.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Ryan. have you checked the electrical heating element? These often malfunction and must be replaced occasionally. You may be able to check the element with an ohm meter to see if it is bad or not. No continuity is bad and suggests the element must be replaced. Not a complicated job at all.

--RG


ryan 3 years ago

i have 2004 fleetwood. i have it plugged into rv slot. everything works. but hot water heater only works when on lp gas. cannot get it to work on electric


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Brian--I suspect the power converter is not putting out enough voltage to keep the battery charged while everything is running. It could also be a dead cell in the battery causing it to not hold a sufficient charge to operate all of the 12 volt DC items on the system. Check out my article about RV power converters below:

https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Camper-Power-Convert...

Feel free to ask for more info if you need it. Thanks for the question and your time, Brian.

Randy


Brian 3 years ago

I have a 97 jayco camper 24 foot when I plug into electric only my ac and microwave work everything else working off battery what should I check because battery goes dead in 3 hrs


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Anthony. You should be able to look at the old converter to see how many amps your RV requires to run the 12 volt system. I would think a 45 amp converter would work for most systems but a 60 amp would even be better. Still, check out the old converter to be sure. Hope this helps and you can find some very good converters on this page.

Feel free to ask if you have any more questions, Anthony. Thanks for the question.

Randy


Anthony 3 years ago

Hello I have a 2006 forest river salem camper. Need a new converter for this unit. Can anyone help? I got the vin# for the camper just need to know what kind to buy and what amp? Vin#4x4tsmf266j016143

Thanks, Anthony


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Jason, it may be the lack of battery which is causing you problems with the fridge. An absorption fridge uses the 12 volt system to operate the thermostat on the fridge and the lack of a battery to furnish enough amps could be causing the fuse to blow. Otherwise I would check the converter to see if it is furnishing at least 13 volts. Hope this helps.

Randy


Jason Harris 3 years ago

My fridge keeps blowing a 5 amp fuse on the circuit board. The message board on the fridge displays "A" whichs means no power available. I do not have a battery hooked up currently and just using 110 volt shore power at home. Is my power converter malfunctioning? Fridge is an absorb type.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Greg, I suspect your 12 volt power converter to be the problem. While plugged into the 110 volt power supply, check the 12 volt breaker panel to see if you are getting at least 13 volts DC power to the breakers. If not, then look to have your converter repaired or replaced. The article I have linked to below may help you find the problem easier. Thanks for the question and good luck with your repairs. Feel free to ask for further help if needed. :)

https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Camper-Power-Convert...

--Randy


GregM1019 3 years ago

we have a 2002 starcraft 31fks when connected to 110 the only thing that works is the outlets the lights refrigerator ac will not work if it is hooked to a 12 volt battery it works until that is disconnected


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Joe,

I'd start with the batteries to see if they are fully charged. Make sure the ground to the frame is making good contact or nothing will work properly. If the batteries check out fine, then on to the 12 volt breaker panel and check to see if power is getting to the breakers. Let me know what you find from there.

Randy


Joe 3 years ago

I have a 2013 Camper that I just purchased and used this fall. I recently parked the unit and went to start the generator and all is dead. I plugged the camper into my truck (tow package) for a couple of hours given that it was the most convenient way to charge my batteries (I thought) and after two hours no charge was taken - everything is still dead. In addition - the lights will not even work off my tow hitch pacakge (external marker lights work just not the camper lights). Where do I go next... All breakers and fuses look good.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Not sure about other GFI's in the circuit, Gary. These things are notorious for going bad and causing shorts in the line circuit. If you have power to the breaker and from the breaker then the problem could be in an outlet. More info may help.


gary 3 years ago

I have l 2005 jayco fifth wheel vin 1UJCJ02R251SS0120 floor plan 36RLTS I have know electric for the ref. tv,and plugs in that area, the breakers seem OK and I only found 1 EFI plug is there more EFI plugs are there another problem


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Robbie. Yes, the generator is probably affecting how the system operates but should be not be a real problem.

Randy


Robbie 4 years ago

I have a camper hooked up to a generator with a two-way fridge. When I'm running the fridge in auto-mode the "check" light comes on, but all I have to do is flip on any light and the "check" light goes off. Also, when I unhook the battery (while leaving the generator on) the overhead lights act abnormal. Lights that are normally controlled by a switch won't come on until I randomly go around the camper flipping other lights off and on. Do you think all of this is because I'm using the generator?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Jessica, sorry to take so long to respond but I've been without an internet connection the last 4 days. If you have a propane furnace it should work since the thermostat runs on 12 volts. If you have an electric furnace it will not work only on the battery.

Randy


Jessica 4 years ago

Randy,

After not getting an electric site we decided to buy a battery just to have heat, after looking for 3 hours for the "switch/fuse" that would switch us from AC to DC we gave up, we have a 2002 Starcraft Orion. Any ideas what we need to do to get it to work? When my husband did something (not sure what) the running lights on the camper would work, but we couldn't get the interior lights or heat to work


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello gonkapa! The interior lights should work with only the battery connected even with the external power disconnected. Are you sure the new battery is fully charged? There could be a switch but I don't think so in this case.


gonkapa 4 years ago

New to Tent Camping... Need Help! I just purchased a 2011 Palomino 4124. The battery was dead so I bought a new deep cycle battery. I connected it and tried to turn on the interior lights to see if it worked, but no lights come on. I'm not connected to an external AC power source or generator. Is there a switch or something to operate power off the battery? Please help, thanks!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Dave. Did this trouble begin after returning from a camping trip or after setting up on the site? It's not unusual for the wiring going to a slide-out to come unplugged or detached in some manner when the slide-out is operated.

The wiring has to be flexible in order to move along with the slide-out. Finding how to access the wiring is the next problem. Obviously, if you are getting 12 volts on both sides of the fuses the short is between there and the slide-out.

Randy


Dave Murphy 4 years ago

Hi Randy,

I have a 2006 Salem Trailer, vin #4X4tsmp266j015816 and have lost power to the lights to the living area pull out and the outside lights (porch light and security light). I have 12 volts on both sides of the fuses, but on one fuse the red LED lights when checking output voltage. Where should I start in my troubleshooting?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

No problem, Sandy. The H/W thermostat operates on the 12 volt battery system when the camper is not plugged in to the 110 volt system and it was still active.

Randy


Sandy 4 years ago

Ok thanks...I wasn't sure because I only noticed it was left on when I walked by the camper after we had parked it at home and heard a faint high-pitched humming sound. After I turned off the switch in the command control box the red light went out and the noise went away.

Thanks again for getting back to me so fast!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Sandy, if the RV wasn't plugged into the electrical source your H/W heater should be okay. Thanks for the question.

Randy


Sandy 4 years ago

We left the switch on (in our monitor box) to the electric water heater in our Jayco 26RLS camper. The camper was not plugged in at the time. Will this do any damage to the water heater?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi John. Yes. there should be a breaker for the converter in the 110 volt breaker panel, however this should not affect anything not using 12 volt DC electrical supply. The converter operates lights, fan, fridge thermostat and perhaps the wall mounted A/C thermostat. Outlets, appliances, etc. should not be affected by the converter. I hope this helps but if not ask for more info.

Just got your other post, John. No, the fridge uses 12 volts to operate the thermostat in most models. Yes, if the battery is dead it may not store enough power to operate all 12 volt items.

Randy


John 4 years ago

We tried to plug the fridge into a n extention cord but seemed we still had no power. Main is on if the battery is dead or bad will that keep the converter from working?

John


John 4 years ago

Randy we are camping now at Stone Mtn Park and my nieghbor has no power. All is good at the power source, attendent checked not sure where for him to check. 50 amp service and it seems nothing is happening at the converter, is there a main fuse that can be blown.

John


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello again Joel. Be sure to check the fuses on both sides. At the point where the power enters the fuse, and on the other side. Sometimes a fuse will appear good but be burnt where you can't see it. If in doubt, replace it. If you are getting power from the fuse, then go to the switch and check there. And from there to the light fixture if the switch is getting power.

I'm doubtful the wiring is bad, especially from rodents. It is possible, but pretty rare. Check all of the 12 volt grounds at the battery too. If they aren't making good contact to the frame it can cause all sorts of problems. Let me know what you find.

Randy


Joel 4 years ago

Hi Randy I found the darn thing was behind a grate that I thought was for heat. Was in the bedroom at the back of the trailer. All the fuses were fine, unfortunately I did not have time to put the multi meter on it yet.. But going for the full weekend coming up, for our first sleep over. Lol

So if all the fuses are good that must mean a wiring problem, I believe , now i am wondering how to get at the wires ? I need to check at the lights for current? Or amperage? And if it is the wires wonder how to not destroy the ceiling in the process of following the wires, if I find no short at the light fixture? Hoping it's right there. But there have been mice in the trailer do they have a habit of chewing wires? I know rats do, none of them thank goodness!! Lol

Thanks in advance

Ps I can do pretty much anything with some direction, learned from my Dad a lot of stuff, but not trailer wiring.

Joel


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Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hope you find the problem, Pstijo. Please ask for further info if you think I can help. :)

Randy


Postijo 4 years ago

Thank you Randy heading up to the home away from now will have a look.

Thanks for the quick response!

:). Joel


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Postijo, and welcome to HubPages. Usually the 12 volt DC panel is located inside the camper to gain quick access to it and to keep it dry and safe from the elements. Often the converter and 12 volt panel is near the 110volt panel because of requiring electricity for the power converter.

Look in all of the closets and storage areas as well as under the beds. If you can trace the lines from the battery(s) they should lead you to the panel. and sorry, I don't know right offhand where to get an owners manual for your RV.

Thanks for the question and your time reading and commenting.

Randy SSSSS


Postijo 4 years ago

Hi Randy just new here, just bought a 1988 Prowler 29L. Having some light issues, so I wondered if you would know where I can find a manual online for it. I cannot even find the panel for it. If it is on the outside in a compartment I may be in trouble because the previous owner had no keys for the outside compartments! The trailer is parked at a seasonal site so it will not be a travel trailer. Not too bad of shape for the age,

Thanks in advance

Joel


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi John. Yes, the lights work off the 12 volt system as does the thermostat for the refrigerator, and if you have a wall mount thermostat for the A/C, then it usually works on the 12 volt system also.

When you say fuse panel do you mean the 12 volt panel? If so, this could be the fuse for the fridge and wall mount thermostat. A little more info may give me a better idea of your problem. Thanks for the question!

Randy


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Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@ Donald--A bad ground to the frame from the battery is often the culprit on the 12 volt DC system, Donald. There is a substance used for coating the area where the ground makes contact with the frame usually found at Lowe's or other places where wiring and clamps are sold.

This article here:

http://hubpages.com/sports/RV-And-Camper-Trailer-R...

May be of interest as it tells s bit about using a multimeter.

Glad you found the problem and please check out my other many RV repair articles found on my profile page or at the top right of this article. thanks for the question and telling me what you found!

Randy


John 4 years ago

We have a 2005 Puma when we plugged in the power the a/c and the refridgerator do not work. Not sure how to check this power, the lights work. All breakers and fuses seem good I guess the lights may be working off the battery? I did notice on the fuse panel one red light.


Donald 4 years ago

It appears to have been a bad connection from the grounding block to the trailer. I cleaned the ground wire with a wire brush and the trailer aswell. I also took the battery post side off and cleaned the post and wire there. One thing I thought was strang was the connection of the main ground to the trailer. It is only held by a self tapping screw. I'm changing it out to a full mechanical conection. Bolt, Nut, & Lock washer. Should I use any kind of grease on the ground connection to the trailer or the grounding block? I may get a multi meter but I'm not sure how they work. I need a class on multi meters. Wheres that seminar?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Loren. Assuming you have replaced the fuse already, and are using a test light or multi-meter, be sure to check to see if power is getting to the fuse from the battery or converter.

I'm not sure if you have a combination 110volt/12 volt panel or not in your RV. Or if you have fuses or breakers on the 12 volt side. You mentioned a fuse, so I'll assume it is a bank of glass fuses on the 12 volt side. If so, there may be individual wires for each fuse and they can be loose or broken because of the RV being shaken around during transit. A little more info from you might help me out on this one.

Randy


Loren 4 years ago

hi...i have a 1998 Sportsmen ultra lite travel trailer. Suddenly, I have no power to my radio, water pump, and little red light that shows me my power for plug in to my 12 volt plug and cable tv plug. Everything else works, lights, fans, fridge, microwave, etc. I checked the fuses,seems dead at fuse. no power there. how do i troubleshoot? we bought it used, and of course, no owners manual came with it...any advice? thanks


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Here's hoping you run the problem down, Donald! I suggest you purchase a multimeter to check continuity for an easier time of it. You can buy one for really cheap if you go through the Amazon ads on this page.

A multimeter is a must-have accessory for any DIY RV owner and will pay for itself many times over in repair costs, not to mention for use around the home.

And thanks for giving me and update on your repairs. As always, feel free to ask for more info if you need it.

Randy


Donald 4 years ago

I'm going on the grounding hunt this weekend. I bought my little electrical tester with light to check for voltage but I agree with your assesment. The only break I can figure would be the ground at the battery. Otherwise I should have other things working when I'm not on the block. Unfortanatly, I already spent the money on a new inverter. Whish I would have found this site $200 dollars ago. Thank you and I'll leave an update after the weekend.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hey, Donald! I assume you are getting voltage in the 12 olvt breaker panel when the RV is plugged in because you said everything works then. Have you checked the voltage at the same panel when the RV is unplugged?

It is possible the battery isn't grounded properly and is using the ground from the plug-in to operate correctly. I would suggest cleaning all of the battery grounds--if you have more than one or not--where they bolt to the frame.

This ground cable should be easy to find in the battery compartment. If this doesn't work then please tell me and we'll check for other possibilities. Apparently your converter isn't at fault if it operates okay while plugged in. Thanks for the question!

Randy


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Rick--Let me know what you found out if you don't mind, Rick! And thanks for reading!

Randy


Donad 4 years ago

I have 2001 Aljo park model 37ft Travel Trailer. All my electric works when pluged into the post but when I unplug from the post, none of my 12v works. The battery is charged and good. I've replaced every short stop and fuse I can find and I've even replaced the converter. It worked once after replacing the convert for a short time then went dead again. I'm confused on what the problem could be. I may try working with the grounds but I'm not sure how to do that and I don't know why it would charge my battery but not switch power back the other direction when unpluged. It doesn't work from the tow vehicle either but the running lights work and so do the electric breaks. No exterior lights on the switch or pump or fridge work from the battery. Any advice would be hepfull. Thank you.


rick 4 years ago

I am having problems with one. I checked voltage at the plug from the switch and 3 wires had 12.9 volts and 1 only had 4.5 volts. I ordered a replacement switch and will see what happens. I already checked all the vacum lines and valves.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Sorry Rick, I haven't had any experience with these cruise control devices. Are you planning on installing one or already have one giving you problems?

Randy


rick 4 years ago

Have you had any dealings with aftermarket cruise controls on 1984 minnie winnie's?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Aaron, I'm not sure I understand your problem completely. Are you saying everything works fine as long as you are plugged into a 50 amp hook-up?

If so, there may be a problem with the A/C pulling too many amps on the 30 amp hook-up. Let me know if I am not understanding the problem correctly.

Randy


aaron 4 years ago

i have a 2002 jayco fifth wheel when i plug into fifty amp outlet everthing stays on battery power switch to thirty amp everything works onther thing is my lights go dim brighten again go dim again on thirty amp and generator to any ideas


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Tom, I doubt there is a reset but I'm not familiar with your model of RV. I assume he hooked into a 220 volt hookup which may have burned out the power converter as the items you listed are all 12 volt powered.

You will have to check the output at the battery or 12 volt panel with a multimeter to see if the converter is putting out around 13 volts when the RV is hooked to the normal power supply.

I suspect the resistor may be damaged in the converter which will cause the reported problems. Ask for more info if this isn't the case. Thanks for the question and good luck!

Randy


Tom 4 years ago

I have a 2006 Surf Side. Recently a buddy used it and hooked it up incorrectly to his home. It was smoking near the breaker panel. Now the AC, Slides, jacks and Battery chargers do not work. Is there a reset or would you think that the breaker box could be fried?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Thanks for the question, Allen. In most RV's the lights, fans, and some other appliances use 12 volt power to operate on. I'm not sure what kind of power converter you have in your RV, but you need to check the voltage it is putting out to the batteries and thus, to the 12 volt breaker panel.

If the 12 volt DC breakers are marked so you can tell which lights are on the circuits you are having problems with, then you can check them with a voltage tester to eliminate a bad breaker from the problem. Your batteries should be getting at least 13 volts DC if the converter is working correctly.

The 110 volt AC wall outlets and all others will not be affected by having a bad converter, so this also points to the converter or 12 volt DC breaker panel as being the culprit. Do ask for more info if needed and please let me know if you find the problem. It may help others with a similar problem. Thanks for reading!

Randy


AllenD 4 years ago

I have a Coleman 2003 Caravan 27' travel trailer. A couple of months ago, some of the lights stopped working. They included the light and fan in the stove hood, the light over the sink, the radio/CD player, and the light over the pull-out bed unit in the front.

I have checked all fuses and breakers and they are ok. No damage can be seen in the electrical housing of the fan hood. The GFCI's have been checked and there is power in the outlets and the bathroom.

Another issue occurred as I was checking the outside light by the door. The light shorted out as I was checking a defective ring behind the lightbulb. And now, that light and also the main center trailer lights inside do not work. But the fuses and breakers are still ok and the outlets and bathroom lights and fan still work.

We have it hooked up to 110 power with an extension cord at our home. Any suggestions.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

HA! Gene! Although it's funny, I'm glad you fixed your problem so easily with no more expense. And believe me, if you work with this type stuff very often you'll always make mistakes. I've slapped my own self up side the head many times saying "Randy, you are so stupid"! LOL!

I had a guy awhile back ask a question on one of my other RV A/C repair articles in which his A/C was blowing air though the intake instead of the vents. I puzzled over that one, figuring his fan was somehow running backwards. He had neglected to tell me had removed the unit from the RV to replace the roof seal. Finally he wrote back and told me had done so and had turned the unit around backwards when replacing it. He felt so embarrassed about it, but like you he was man enough to admit it! LOL!

Thanks again for telling me what you found out, Gene. I learn a lot from everyone who visits here and try to pass the info along to other RV owners who may have similar problems. Stop in any time and please check out my other RV repair articles if you have any problems. Enjoy the coming camping season!

Randy


campermaninbc profile image

campermaninbc 4 years ago from Merritt British Columbia Canada

Hi Randy, guess what, everything seems to be running correctly. However there's a little story here. I rehooked the charged 6 volt batteries, hooked the 110 ac to the trailer, turned a bunch of lights and fans on, put the meter on the batteries and meter read 12.60-59-58-47 ect draining slowly, so called my niegbour Fred over, (Fred has a simular setup on his) and told him my problem, so Fred hauls out my schematics, looks them over, walks over to the batteries, scatches his head and says"gene, come here. Look at the batteries, What's wrong with this picture? So,scanning the batteries over And sweating some what, he's says, Take your cap off, so i do, and he slaps me up side the face and says, It's not good enough to put the positive lead on one battery, negative lead on the other, without hooking the two together!!!

Now since we will never meet,because I'm in Canada somewhere,....in BC in fact, I'd thought I owed you an explaination without fibbing.LOL.

Next time I ask a technical question, ask me if if I had my head examined first!

gene :(


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi John! More than likely the power converter is at fault. Your RV seems to have a combination converter/breaker panel which also seems to indicate a problem with the converter. If the converter is at fault you should be able to check the voltage at the batteries while the lights, vent fans, etc, are running to see if the voltage in the battery is dropping.

If you are getting 13 volts while these items are operating then the converter is working properly. You may wish to check out this article about RV power converters for more info. Thanks for the question!

https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Camper-Power-Convert...

Randy


john 4 years ago

Setup my 96 Dutchman camper this weekend and plugged it into the electric, after about 2 hours of being plugged in, inside the breaker panel there is a very, very loud buzzing noise. The the lights go dim but it seems the electric still works. I put a new deep cycle battery in and changed the gfi receptacle and it still makes the loud noise, tne panel box holds the 110v and the 12v dc breakers and fuses, at my witts end please help.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Thanks loads, Gene! I'm sure others would like to know what you found to be the problem. I know I would! Thanks again for the questions.

Randy


campermaninbc profile image

campermaninbc 4 years ago from Merritt British Columbia Canada

Thanks, I'll check that and keep you posted!

gene


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello again, campermaninbc! You can check the converter voltage by using a multimeter directly on the batteries while running several 12 volt DC appliances. If the converter is operating properly, the voltage on the batteries should stay steady with no loss as the converter should keep them fully charged while furnishing power to the particular 12 volt items.

I would think the furnace fan to be 12 volt but not sure. It should say on the wiring diagram on the furnace somewhere.

Ha! I know exactly what you mean about a spouse not knowing the difference in left and right and have often intervened to help other men back their RV's into tight spots and thus, save the life of many wives in the process.

I can't advise you on the proper wiring technique for your new camera as I've never installed one before. Sorry, but it sounds like a great option. The red and blue hoses are a mystery to me as I've not encountered them before, but they may relate to the onboard holding tanks or fresh water supply. Sorry I cannot be of more service.

Randy


campermaninbc profile image

campermaninbc 4 years ago from Merritt British Columbia Canada

Thankyou Randy, I read through other posts and got the feeling you'd tell me to check the converter.Once I have the batteries recharged (I put them on yesterday,and they are fully charged 6.25 readings on both 6 volt batteries) is there a way I can read the converter, and do I need to pull the panel off to gain access? Also, obviously 12 volt lights and fans work off of 12 volt power, does the forced air fan on heater also use 12 volt or is it converted 110 AC from 12 DC?

Also, I noticed a red and blue hose at the bottom corner of trailer.Can I open those to drain out anti-freeze or what is the purpose in them please?

And lastly today, I bought a rear veiw camera system with a signal inhancer and I thought it might be useful to put on rear of trailer to have a better view of obstacles while backing up AND to maybe stop yelling and getting mad at wife (everyone knows what I mean about that, they seem to not know what left and right means???)My question is Do I need to run a separate wire from my reverse wire from my pick-up, or is there a lead I can use from that seven point adaptor from the trailer to the truck.I've never seen back up lamps on a trailer, which is what I require as I don't want to use a constant source of voltage as it will eventually fry the camera.It also comes with an infared night vision feature that I don't want to fry out. I'd be grateful if you helped me with the voltage and red and blue hose problem, the camera thingy isn't a huge priority.lol, gene


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello campermaninbc. It sounds as if your power converter is at fault. A bad converter exhibits all of the symptoms you mentioned. Check the battery voltage when everything is running to see if the converter is putting out at least 13 volts. If not, the converter is the main suspect.

The batteries are not the problem, so don't expend anymore money buying new ones. Fell free to ask for more info if needed.

Randy


campermaninbc profile image

campermaninbc 4 years ago from Merritt British Columbia Canada

Hello I'm new here.Last camping season I had an odd drain on my batteries, so I bought new batteris thinking that was the problem.So, the last campout last fall everything was fine till about 9 pm and suddenly lights went out again and only 3 hrs on fully charged batteries.When I bought the trailer originally I had the AC removed by the RV dealership and a fantastic fan installed, so other than lights and fan on I still ran out of juice with my 2 6 volt batteries.So again, thinking it must be a battery problem I changed out for new batteries two weeks ago for the start of the new season. Guess what? went to check test levels this morning and completely dead.

Should i hold off on new batteries LOL? I 've spent over $1400. in batteries the past 8 months!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Emmett! I think you are correct as it seems the outlets are all on one circuit. Obviously, the breaker supplying voltage to this circuit is either tripped of is bad.

You should be able to use a digital multimeter to check each individual circuit for power. I would suggest switching off all of the breakers and testing them one by one until the bad circuit is found.

If you find one breaker with no power even when turned on, then this one would need replacing. Breakers do malfunction on occasion.

Let me know if you find the problem or if you need more info and I'll be glad to help. Thanks for your and question.

Randy


Emmett 4 years ago

Hi Randy, we just bought our first TT. We decided it was time to leave the tent to the kids. Having no experience with these before the last week or so has been interesting trying to figure out how stuff works, and when (12V, 120, or on propane). The TT is a 1993 Scotty. There are a few issues that I can't seem to resolve.

1. The exterior outlet, light, and the outlet for the refrigerator (2 way fridge) don't seem to be working, the fridge will work if I plug it in to an extension cord to the house or run it on propane. I assume these will be in the same circuit since they are in the same side. Can you point me to a schematic or give me some tips on troubleshooting? I guess Scotty stopped operating in 1997 so no luck with contacting them.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi, Shielarae! Although using a too small fuse may cause problems it probably isn't what is wrong with your AC. The starting capacitor may be at fault or you may other problems. Check out this other article I wrote especially for RV AC repair and troubleshooting. There are many questions and answers for you to choose from to find your problem.

https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Roof-Air-Conditioner...

Randy


Shielarae 4 years ago

Hello there.. we are having ac problems. it throws the breaker when we try to start it and it "buzzez" like it doesn't want to start.. I notices that one of the fuses is a 20 amp and it is supposed to be 25. could this be the problem?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

This is a puzzler, Lori! Since the slide-out and the lights are on 12 volt and the outlets are 110 volt, these two systems are completely separate and should not affect each other.

If your fridge is a 3-way the 110 volt element may be tripping the breaker which could affect the outlets on the same circuit. There is a possibility the wiring may be loose at the connections leading into the slide-out if it has any 110 volt outlets in it.

It's really very hard to advise you without having a wiring diagram to go by to see the circuits involved. At this point it's mainly a matter of using a multi-meter to find where the power is being prevented from getting from the breaker to the outlets. Trial and error is going to be the only way to find the culprit.

Sorry I cannot be of more help to you, but feel free to ask more questions as you keep searching for the problem. A bad battery doesn't seem to be causing the problem if the lights and other 12 volt items are working okay. But I would check the voltage at the battery to see if the power converter is putting out at least 13 volts.

Randy


Lori 4 years ago

Randy, Thanks for resoponding so fast. All the fuses and breakers have been checked. Still wondering why the plug-ins would not be working? The battery is original and probably no good , do you think this could be some of the problem? While travelling to where we are at we stopped and everything was fine. For the last couple of years we have had problems with refrig. blowing fuses and the lights and plug-ins on superslide side have not been working {refrig. is on same side as superslide} have had it at RV dealer they could not find anything. Hope you can make sense of what I am saying.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Lori! Depending on your type refrigerator-2-way or 3-way--its thermostat uses the 12 volt DC system to operate the thermostat no matter if it is using LP, 12 volts DC, or 110 volt AC power to heat the ammonia solution which cools the unit.

The 12 volt system also operates the superslide and the thermostat on the water heater. Have you checked all of the fuses/breakers in the 12 volt DC panel which is separate from the 110 volt panel? It may be some of the fuses/breakers in this panel may not be working.

Feel free to ask for more info and you may wish to check out the article i linked in the post above yours. Ask for more info if you need it, and thanks for stopping by!

Randy


Lori 4 years ago

I have a 2007 Carriage Cameo, having problem with refrig. is saying low voltage, some of the only 1 outlet in 5th wheel part works, and 1 outlet in living area works microwave works air/furnace, all lights working except along superslide {same side as refrig. is on} waterheater and refrig. work on lp. All fuses seem to be fine. Breakers seem to be fine. I am plugged into 50 amp site. Any suggestions on what problem could be.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Perry! You either have a malfunctioning power converter or a bad battery(s). All of your aforementioned items not working operate on the 12 volt DC power panel. I don't know if you checked this panel or not, but even if you are getting voltage from it the amperage my not be enough to power the different electrical fixtures.

Check the battery(s) when the converter is operating to see how many volts are going to them. If they are the type with refillable fluid cells, then make sure they are topped up with water, or otherwise they will not hold a charge.

Feel free to ask for more info if my suggestions don't help. My suspicion is a faulty power converter, but check everything else before purchasing a new one or having the present converter repaired. Here is a link to my article on checking your converter:

https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Camper-Power-Convert...

Thanks for the question!

Randy


Perry 4 years ago

Jayco camper all plug-ins work. no lights fans refridgerator. power to all breakers. crossed breakers to see if that was the problem and no it wasn't.what do i need to check?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Yes Adam. it could be the converter, but check to see if the other 12 volt items are working before settling on this solution. You should be able to get 12-13 volts at the battery when the converter is working correctly. I assume you have checked the 12 volt DC panel as well as the 110 volt AC breaker panel already.

One way to check this is to connect an ordinary 12 volt battery charger to the battery(s) and trying to work the slide-outs and jacks. If they work then the converter and or battery is at fault. If this doesn't work then feel free to ask for more info.

Thanks for the question and for reading this article!

Randy


Adam 4 years ago

I have a 2010 5th wheel with 3 slides. When I returned home from camping the front jacks and slides will not work. All fuses and breakers are good. Everything else seems to be working fine.Could it be my converter?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

The old glass fuses are those which furnish electricity to the 12 volt appliances from the converter. Perhaps the new batteries was the problem all along. But let me know if this isn't the case. Thanks again for your questions!

Randy


dunpsterrider 4 years ago

I can only find 1 set of breakers on the rv and they are connected to the box with 5 old school glass fuses. I ordered the book shown above and a multimeter. I compleetly charged the batteries (2 new) and the rv has held the charge for 5 days so far.


rick b 4 years ago

Yes clear so far. I will find the second panel. thanks


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@dunpsterrider--There are 2 breaker panels in most RVs. One handles all 110-120 volt AC appliances such as rooftop air conditioners, all wall outlets,a furnace fans, etc.

The other breaker panel may be attached to the converter box which changes the 110-120 volt current, coming from the plugged in pigtail, into 12 volt DC current to charge the on board batteries which run the lights, vent fans and thermostat on the fridge.

There should be a breaker in the 110-120 volt AC panel which is marked converter and provides electricity to the converter.

While checking the batteries for converter current, the RV should be plugged into the house or other 110 volt supply. Is this clear so far?

Randy


dunpsterrrider 4 years ago

When doing this should the gen be running or the rv pludgged into the house plug etc. Like i said i really know very little about this stuff. Thanks


dunpsterrrider 4 years ago

I am new to this stuff so is the converter the box with the fuses and breakers in it. Also there is a solinoid looking device at the back of the battery box where all the battery cables from the battery , alt and i assume gen hook up. Thanks,


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Thanks for the question, Rick! This sounds like a power converter problem. Check at the batteries to see if the converter is sending a charge to them.

Using a multimeter to check, there should be at least 12-13 volts DC flowing into the batteries from the converter when some lights, fans, etc. or other 12 volt appliance is operating. If not, the resistor in your converter may be at fault. Feel free to ask for more info if this is not the case.

Randy Godwin


rick b 4 years ago

I have a 1984 minnie winnie 22 foot motor home. All was well with the electrical systen until the other day. The 2 house battries will not hold a charge over night. I replaced both and charged them and they lose all charge overnight. When i fire up the motor and switch the battery switch from the engine batt to the house batteries it starts charging the house batteries but the next morning there dead. The engine battery is fine. No blown fuses all appliances work. Any ideas?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello, Man of the West! I would have someone read the meter with all of the breakers turned off except the main. Turn the breakers on one at at time until you find the breaker the electrical drain is on.

Be aware that some appliances, such as microwaves and especially TV's, have small voltage drains even when switched off. Feel free to ask for more info if you still don't find the problem. Good luck and thanks for the question.

Randy SSSSS


man of the west 4 years ago

I have an electrical bleed in my travel trailer. Battery is good an hold charge. When hooked up to trailer with everything turned off inside, we put a voltage meter on the line running into trailer and it is drawing power. Where do I start to run down this problem. Battery is down to i/2 power over night.


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

That is puzzling, Mike. If the RV battery is dead then this shows it isn't receiving enough voltage to charge it or the battery itself is bad. I would suggest removing the positive cable from the battery and checking the voltage between it and the ground to see if there is proper voltage coming from the converter.

It should read 12-13 volts if the converter is to keep the battery fully charged. If it does show enough voltage the battery is probably at fault. If the Battery is low on fluid it will not hold a charge.

Since your other 12 volt lights, fans, etc. are working, the converter is probably fine. Be sure to check the ground at the battery for a good connection to the frame. A bad ground connection can cause all sorts of screwy electrical problems. Good luck and feel free to give me more info if you think I can help you further.

Randy


Mike 4 years ago

I jumped the battery and the alarm went off on the power convertor. The fan in the bathroom still did not work even when the RV was running


Mike 4 years ago

The vent fan in the bathroom is not working but the one upfront is. All the light and plug-ins work as well as the heater


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Mike! I wouldn't think the speedometer would be related unless it too is a 12 volt DC powered instrument. You must check the output from the converter before making any guesses at the problem you are experiencing.

Are all of the 12 volt DC powered items, such as vent fans, lights, etc. working okay?


Mike 4 years ago

The alarm is going off on my 300 watt Magnadyne DC to AC power convertor? What would cause this? I checked the fuse and it is fine. The battery on the RV is also dead and the fuse on the speedomter keeps blowing are they related?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi back atcha, Brandy! I would suggest checking the batteries if they are the type which may be topped up with water or acid. If too many electrical amps are pulled and the fluid level is low in the batteries it may cause the system to temporarily shut down.

You might check the amps and volts at the battery when this happens again to see what is going on with your system. Trial and error is the only thing you can do at this point.

Feel free to tell me what you find if this isn't the problem. Thanks for your question and for reading my article.

Randy


Brandy 5 years ago

Hi Randy, I've been reading your forum here and find it a very helpful check list for the problems I have been having but haven't come up with a solution yet. My boyfriend owns 2005 Keystone trailer and we've been having issues with the electrical system. Dimming/blinking lights that shut off then pop back on after a while, etc. This morning the alarm came on in the trailer and would not shut off until I turned all the breakers off in it. I have noticed this problem is most prevalent as the temperature drops and less common as it rises during the day. We've checked the converter and it seems to be working. Could this be an issue in the wiring or is it something we haven't considered yet? Thanks for any insight you can offer!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Glad you found the problem, Aaron! Thanks for reporting the solution here. Stop by any time!

Randy


Aaron 5 years ago

Thanks for the info Randy. It turned out to just be the 30 amp fuse on the positive battery cable was blown. So simple! Thanks again!


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Aaron, I would start by checking the power at the battery terminals first. Then if this checks out okay then go to the 12 volt DC breaker/fuse panel to make sure you are getting at least 12 volts to the main breaker/fuse.

If so, then check the breaker/fuse supplying power to the water pump and then at the pump itself. Don't forget that ground wires at the battery, breaker/fuse panel, and the water pump may be connected to the frame and sometimes become corroded causing the circuit to be broken.

The battery ground wire usually bolted to the frame is especially susceptible to corrosion in these cases. let me know what you find and if you need more info.

Thanks for the question and for your time.

Randy


Aaron 5 years ago

Randy, was wondering if you could help me an issue I'm having. I went to winterize my trailer the other day and was going to do it running the water pump off battery power. When I got out to the trailer with my charged battery, I connected it and found out I had no power to the trailer what so ever. Checked the battery again and while it wasn't fully charged I thought it should have been enough power to run the lights at least. But there is absolutely no power to the trailer at all. Wondering where you think I should start checking. Battery itself is about 4 years old. Check fuses first?


Randy Godwin profile image

Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

hello Tim, this sounds like a converter problem as all of the lights, fans, fridge, and furnace run off of the battery or batteries. The converter may not be putting out enough amperage to keep the battery fully charged with several different items pulling amps.

Check the voltage and/or the amperage when the converter is on at the batteries. i hope this helps you find the problem.

Randy


Tim 5 years ago

Finishing up from last commect. I check the extension cord and the is power to. I'll unhook everything for a day and try again and it works for about a day again


Tim 5 years ago

I plug my trailer into my house power and everything work on my trailer. Then I check it then next day and the trailer isn't running on the house power but off the battery. I unhook the battery while it's connected to the house power and there's no power to the trailer. I check the the extenoo


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hi Calorimer! My first suggestion is to check the connections where the power cord is wired to the fridge itself. Sometimes the hot wire may be contacting the metal on the fridge causing a short to charge the entire RV frame.

Otherwise, a multimeter is essential to finding the problem quickly. I would also check the receptacles, both the non-functioning one and the one used for the main electrical supply. I hope this helps.

Randy


calorimer 5 years ago

Hi Randy, I just purchaced a 1992 sprinter camper trailer. The outlet the fridge plugs into doesn't work, so there is a three way plug i can plug the fridge and the main power cord in at the same time. But when I plug the fridge in the whole camper shell is charged with 110! I am stumped any advice?


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Rick-You obviously have both of them on the same breaker which isn't strong enough to supply both with enough power to operate at the same time.

Either plug one of them into a different circuit or change the breaker to a higher amperage to prevent this from occurring again.

Thanks for the question!

Randy


Rick 5 years ago

My hd tv shuts off when I start the micro wave. It does not blow any breakers. When I'm done with the micro wave I can just turn the tv back on?


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Let me know what you find out, Mike! I'm curious to know if a new battery solves your problem. Thanks for your reply.

Randy


Mike 5 years ago

Randy, Thanks. I'll get a new battery & let you know how it works. I didn't think the two batteries were supposed to be tied together in any way.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Mike, I suspect the bad battery was causing the terminal to get so hot because it would not hold a charge. The Durango alternator was constantly charging the battery because it never reached the level to stop requiring it.

This could be because the fluid in the battery was low or the cells were not making proper contact with each other making the terminal on the end cell try to hold all of the charge being putout by the generator.

I would suggest replacing the battery and allowing the converter to charge it up to full capacity before testing the reaction to the Durango only.

It should be okay now but there's no guarantee there isn't something else causing a bad ground or short. Let me know what you find out if you don't mind.

Thanks for the question!

Randy


Mike 5 years ago

Randy, I borrowed my uncles pop up camper over Labor Day weekend. He told me prior to borrowing it that he thought the battery was bad, which was not a problem, since the campground I went to had electric hook up. After taking the camper down prior to leaving camp, I hooked the up the trailer connection to my Durango & left it hooked up a while before leaving. When I went to start my Durango, it almost did not start. I drove about 10 miles into town & stopped at a restaurant. When I went to start the Durango, my battery was dead. We jump started the Durango and drove another 15 miles or so & stopped at a gas station. I left the Durango running since I felt I needed a new battery myslelf. For some reason, and glad I did, I checked the battery on the camper while at the gas station & the negative terminal was so hot you could not touch the wing nut with your bare hands. I did manage to unhook the terminals on the camper battery & drove the rest of the way home. My battery in my Durango recharged from the drive and has been working fine ever since. The camper lighting & all works fine when plugged into 110 and I checked to see if the converter was putting out a charge to the battery and it is. I have not hooked the battery back up to the camper. I did put the battery on a battery charger and then took it over town to the auto store and had it tested. They confirmed the battery was bad. I would like to buy him a new battery for the camper for letting me use it, but I'm afraid it may ruin it when hooking the trailer connection back up to tow the camper. Do you have any idea what would have caused the draw on my Durango battery & make the negative terminal on the camper battery to get so hot when hooked up for towing?


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Chris, hook the battery back up and check the 12 volt main breaker with the RV unplugged from the 110 volt AC supply.

Your converter should be putting out more voltage when everything is first turned on after connecting to a power source to prevent the 12 volt DC breakers from tripping or to prevent sudden blackouts similar to those you described.

This isn't a sure thing but you may find out something after testing voltage at the breakers or the battery after first connecting the power.


chris 5 years ago

Checked the voltage at battery with the battery un hooked and the converter is putting out 12 volts.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Anytime, Anita! Thanks for the questions and for your time. :)

Randy


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Anita Reyes Cuen 5 years ago

Randy, We would like to thank you for help.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Anita-I would think there would only be one breaker for the slideout, Anita. There should be a panel to access the electrical wiring connections leading to the slideout, though.

Sometimes these connections will become loose because of movement during operation of the slideout. Access may be gained to some of these connections through stripping around the slideout. Sorry I can't be more specific about your problem, Anita.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Chris-This sounds more and more like a bad ground, Chris. You need to check the voltage at the battery to see if the charge is at least 13 volts from the converter when the RV is first plugged into the 110 volt power supply and everything is running.

At this point the converter should be putting out its strongest charge. Don't rule out a bad main breaker in the 12 volt breaker panel.


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Anita Reyes Cuen 5 years ago

Hi Randy, could there be more breakers for the battery or slideout.


chris 5 years ago

I replaced the battery with another battery and the same thing is happening.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

@Chris-This sounds like the battery or batteries are not being fully charged by the power converter. The battery should hold enough charge to allow instantaneous use of all 12 volt systems, including the A/C thermostat and interior lights, without having to wait until the converter recharges it back to performance level.

Some deep cycle batteries will develop a memory which gives a false reading of full charge but will discharge rapidly under heavy use. Apparently the power converter is fine if all of the systems eventually operate normally.

Be sure the ground wire(s) are all making good contact to the RV frame. Good luck and feel free to ask for further info.

Randy


chris 5 years ago

I was at the campground. When the camper is not plugged up my lights do not work. The a/c does have a wall mounted thermostat.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Thanks Anita for clarifying your problem. The slide out usually is powered by a 12 volt motor which is powered by a fully charged battery. I'm not saying it doesn't have both 12 volt and 110 volt motors but this normally not the case.

This sounds more like a power converter problem with the converter not keeping the battery fully charged if the battery needs charging with a conventional charger.

In order to check this out the power converter output must be checked at the batteries to insure proper voltage from the converter.

I hope this explains the problem and helps you find the solution. If not, feel free to ask for more info.

Randy


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Anita Reyes Cuen 5 years ago

Let me phrase this question in a different way. This last holiday we went camping and my brother had a problem with the slideout on his 5th wheel trailer. He could not get the slideout to move even though it was plugged into a 110 ac power box at the campsite and he also had power to his appliances in the trailer. Is it possible that the slideout only work on 12v and not the 110ac volt plug. My brother claims that it use to slide out on both 110 ac volt and 12 dc volt.

Right now his 12 dc volt battery has got no juice at all. What we did was charge the battery for at least 1/2 hour and then he pressed the button for the slideout and then it started to slide out. While the 110 ac volt is plugged into the power box shouldn't the battery be charging automaticaly? Also what can be draining the battery power? We would appreciate your advice.

Please help us solve this problem. Thank you


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello again, Anita. When you say "power outlet" I am confused as to whether you are referring to the slide activation switch or to something else. Is there a dual switch with one power supply coming from the 12 volt breaker panel and the other directly from the battery?

Randy


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Anita Reyes Cuen 5 years ago

Hi Randy, I had contacted you a while back in reference to a power converter problem that my brother had. Well now he has another issue before he was able to push the button and the slide out would slide out when he would use the power outlet and now it will not slide out unless he uses battery power. He also has a bad batteryin his rockwood 5th wheel trailer.Could there a fuse somewhere in between that he may have to replace?


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Hello Chris. I would advise using a multimeter to check the main and A/C breakers when the power is lost. Unless the A/C is controlled by a wall mount thermostat, this tends to rule out the power converter as the source for the problem.

You didn't say whether you were at home or at a campground when the problem arose. But the lights should still work if the 30 amp connection is unplugged.

Does the A/C have a wall mount thermostat or is it mounted in a ceiling assembly mount instead?

Randy


chris 5 years ago

Please help. I have a timberlodge travel trailer. Last timewe went camping had no problems. The past weekend we had problems. Lost power to a/c all interior lights. After about 10 seconds they would come on again for 1 minute to 5 minutes and eventually stay on like everythingwas fine. Battery is fully charged. If I disconnect the 30 amp nothing works even though the battery is fully charged and batteries wires are tight.


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Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia Author

Okay Herb. Is the element getting hot, or are you referencing a "signal" as an electrical current? Do you have ALL of the power unhooked, including the batteries from their terminals? I'm still confused by this but assume you didn't include the battery disconnects..Sorry for my confusion, but you would have to have some power to get a "signal" as you put it.


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