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How to Repair a Camper Travel Trailer Electrical System

Updated on March 25, 2016
Randy Godwin profile image

Randy is a lifelong lover of the outdoors and especially camping. This article is intended to help the RVer save money and time on repairs.

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Electrical System Design

Most RV’s and camper trailers utilize the same types of electrical systems as those used for an average small home. But in addition to the 110 volt electrical supply, there may also be lights, fans, a refrigerator, or other electrical devices which use a 12 volt supply, like that of a car or truck.

A 12-volt DC system powers the RV refrigerator to keep food cold while the RV or camper trailer is moving from place to place. The same goes for the lights and fans. It also keeps the on-board batteries fully charged. This system relies on the 110-volt AC electrical power supply for amperage.

It is possible to pull a 12-volt power supply from the RV or camper trailer's electrical system or 110-volt campsite power supply. Then the 110-volt supply can be stepped down to 12 volts after it is run through a power converter and to a particular appliance.

Rewiring a Classic RV

A classic 1946 Spartan travel trailer.
A classic 1946 Spartan travel trailer. | Source

Most of RV systems will switch from the 110-volt AC to the 12 volt DC supply automatically when there is a power interruption. These two electrical systems are treated independently from each other when diagnosing electrical problems, except for determining power to the converter. This translates to:

  • 110 volt power-- > converter-- > 12 volt power-- > 12 volt breaker box -- > refrigerator or lights

As in a home, the 12-volt system has its own set of breakers to control each circuit. The lights, fans, or refrigerator may each be on their own circuits, depending on the amperage required. If the converter is supplying 12 volts to the breaker panel and the breakers test positive for voltage, this leaves the wiring or the particular appliance at fault.

A 1956 Serro Scotty classic.
A 1956 Serro Scotty classic. | Source

Essential Tools and Resources

  • If you are not familiar with electrical wiring or troubleshooting electrical systems there are some very good books available to help you understand and repair common RV electrical problems. I would recommend RV Electrical Systems: A Basic Guide to Troubleshooting, Repairing and Improvement to any novice and experienced electrician alike. It will be an enormous aid to understanding RV electrical systems.
  • Another must for tracing down electrical problems is a voltage meter. This handy tool will allow you to check the circuits for continuity and for the correct voltage required for each breaker. A simple test light can be used but will not test for broken circuits caused by bad wiring or other electrical problems. Both of these tools are inexpensive to own and will more than pay for themselves over time. The voltage meter can be used for home electrical problems as well as any other electrical related problem. Both are offered on this page for a reasonable price.

Troubleshooting Common 110-Volt Problems

  • The 110 volt outlets used in some RVs and camper trailers are prone to shorts because of the way they are installed. Some are merely clipped onto the wiring by cutting into the wires. These types are notorious for not working correctly. Replace these types of outlets with standard house types to put and end to loose connections. Since some of the walls are so thin, a smaller receptacle box may be required for the outlet to fit flush in the walls.
  • Ground fault interrupter outlets are another common cause of electrical problems. These are located in places where a possibility exists of someone touching them with wet hands. They automatically break the circuit when moisture comes in contact with the outlet to prevent shock to the person touching them. A simple reset button must be pressed for the circuit to once again be completed. On occasion they will need to be replaced or the other outlets on the line will not work either. Pay close attention to the instructions when replacing these GFIs.
  • In older RVs and camper trailers you may still find fuses instead of circuit breakers. Since the advent of many new electrical devices, these older fuse systems may not provide enough amperage to handle a microwave or other high amp appliance without blowing a fuse or kicking a breaker. Simply replacing the fuse or breaker with a higher amp substitute may be all that’s required. Replacement of the entire breaker box may be the only option remaining if this doesn’t solve the problem.
  • The newer RVs and camper trailers may have two RV A/C rooftop units which require more amperage than the older models to operate without kicking the standard 30-amp power supply used by many campgrounds. Fortunately, many campgrounds and RV parks now provide 50-amp service for these types of units. When making reservations or checking in, be sure to ask about the availability of a 50-amp hook-up if you own a unit with multiple A/C units.

Keeping your electrical systems in good and safe working order insures a trouble free camping trip with no sudden power outages to ruin the trip. Most problems can be repaired easily if you understand how the system works. RV electrical manuals along with a few inexpensive tools are well worth the cost of their purchase.

If you are completely confused by electrical wiring there are also some very good basic books to start you off. It isn’t very hard at all to check electrical circuits, switches or outlets with an inexpensive voltmeter. Just remember, when touching any wires be sure the power to that particular circuit is off. If in doubt, turn off the main breaker or unplug the RV or camper trailer from the power supply. Happy camping!

Replacement Power Converters

Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard
Progressive Dynamics (PD9270V) 70 Amp Power Converter with Charge Wizard

Power converters for all makes and models of motorhomes and camper trailers available.

 

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    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 104 minutes ago from Southern Georgia

      Phillip, are you sure you're not plugged into a 50 amp 240 volt connection? There's no way that you could get 240 volts from a 30 amp 120 volt connection unless the wiring is bad.

      Randy

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      Phillip glendenning 4 hours ago

      Will be the problem if you just move the trailer with no electrical problems then you relocate to a new spot in your Transformer vibrates when you plug it in and no lights but it reads 240 volts coming out of the sockets

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Shirley, the only way to tell what is on any particular circuit is to turn all the breakers off but the main and turn each breaker back on while checking to see what is powered by each particular circuit. When you find a circuit with little on it you can add an outside GFI circuit to this breaker. Unless of course, you have an empty breaker already in the power panel.

      Randy

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      Shirley Cole/Ohio 3 days ago

      We just purchased a 1979 Sunline TT, Model 12 1/2 Mc Has 110 and 12v, but 12 v wiring has been rigged and in sad shape, lights only work on driver side(clearance, brake etc.) Unit was supposedly stored for almost 35 yrs. Pretty solid, fridge only propane/elec, which is fine, would like to add an outside outlet. How can we do this safely without over loading wiring? Trying to obtain owner's manual for schematics without success and Sunline out of production since 2006. Thank you for any help. email is pepsigirl12397@yahoo.com

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      Stephen Greel 2 weeks ago

      Thank you Randy I kept researching this and was led to check my bathroom receptacle and reset the button. I did and power returned to all the plug ins.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Stephen, have you checked to see if power is getting to the breakers yet? The lightning may have damaged the main in the power panel.

      Randy

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      Stephen greel 2 weeks ago

      I have a 2017 Starcraft launch. Last night we had a little ghtning storm and the power surged. None of the 120 v outlets are getting power. I checked the circuit breakers and the seem good.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Adam, there should be an access panel to get to the wiring for the slide-out. Hope you find the culprit!

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      Adam Mercado 2 weeks ago

      Hi Randy, thanks for the reply. Yeah really puzzling. I will have to resort to removing the fixture and checking the ground in the cavity behind it. I'm sure I can rig something where I replace the rivets with screws. That's a project I don't want to get into a couple of days before we head out. Any chance the wiring reveals itself under the dinette slide out? Any clues what to look out for?

      Thanks again

      Adam

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Adam, you do have a mystery on your hands. In most cases a problem with the 12 volt system is a bad ground somewhere. I cannot assure you the problem is in the riveted fixture but you may have to remove it as a last resort. Installing a new tow package wiring harness may be the only solution if the removal of the fixture doesn't help find the problem.

      Randy

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      Adam Mercado 2 weeks ago

      Hi Randy. First, after reading this long thread I have to thank you for your consistency in replying over the years. It's thanks to people like you that dunces and noobs like me are able to arm themselves with a tiny amount of knowledge. I have bookmarked your websites for future reference

      Anyhow, I have a unique problem, at least one not addressed by the many Q and A below. Recently bought a used 2004 PUP tent trailer. We are all set to go out on our first trip this weekend. What I at first assumed was a bad bulb, upon further inspection turns out to be something more puzzling. The drivers side turn signal down not work on the trailer.

      Here's what I have learned in my hours of scouring the web and troubleshooting with my multimeter

      Using a known good bulb (from the passenger side) the problem persists

      Using the same 'faulty' bulb on the passenger side does not recreate the problem there.

      THE BULB IS RULED OUT AS THE PROBLEM

      Checked #50 fuse for TRL TRN L in my tow vehicle - 12v in

      Checked tow vehicle trailer connector for LEFT TURN/BRAKE - 12v out

      Checked ground at tow vehicle trailer connector - 3.3ohm

      Checked main ground under the trailer. Screw is tight and clean and visually free of corrosion.

      Checked voltage at left turn/brake housing - 6.7v intermittent (signal)

      Checked ground to left turn/brake housing - 3.3ohm

      So by all accounts the voltage is getting there, but somewhere along the way it is getting shorted out maybe. Without being able to isolate the turn signal ground from the brake, that reading is inconclusive.

      The trouble is, the wiring comes from the harness at the hitch, disappears into the metal frame and is never seen again. Any Deals how I can trouble shoot the light fixture if all the electrical wiring is buried in the hull of the trailer. I cannot find an access panel anywhere. Further, the light fixture is riveted to the back panel. I cannot remove it and replace it without getting the angle grinder out, and I'd rather avoid that three days before our trip. Unless you recommend the fault is very likely back there I'll save that mod for another day.

      Is there a way to test the ground at the main ground on the frame? How do I check that?

      Many many thanks for bearing with me. Wanted to provide you with as much into as I could.

      Adam

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Mary, do you know which circuit the beeping item is on? Have tried turning off the breakers one at a time until you find the circuit powering the beeping item? A bit more info may assist me in helping you with this problem.

      Randy

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      Mary 2 weeks ago

      Fleetwood Pioneer 2006, when u plug in it BEEPS , turn on a light stops for awhile... churps... beeping. Took off the gas hoses to tanks...beeps,,, from under thr refrig. I have it plugged into a dedicated circuit just for the trailer. ????Electrican went thru it, still beeps so what makes it beep? Sounds like an alarm...but for wha,,,,t HELP..need it not to beep so we can use it for the a/c...

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Marco, this is a strange occurrence, especially as your power converter was not powered by 110 volts at the time. It may be the power converter was ,draining the batteries by some sort of backwards effect. Other than that, this is all I have..

      Randy

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      Marco Werkhoven 2 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      Searched all over the web for a solution to an electrical problem we have in our trailer. Looking at your experience you might have some ideas.......

      We mostly camp off the grid with solar panels. Never an issue, until the other day. We are off the grid, non of the 110 volt appliances in use of course, battery indicator shows 2/3 full. Suddenly, within a matter of less than a minute the battery indicator drops to zero, all power is lost. Then a few minutes later the fan of the converter starts humming for 5 seconds (and we are off the grid), and the power comes back on. Battery indicator shows 2/3 full. A few minutes later the cycle repeats, and repeats, and repeats........

      I then flipped all the 110 volt breakers to the off position, in a desperate attempt, and the strange battery drain disappeared. But it seems to have done a number on the batteries. They don't hold up nearly as well as they normally do.

      Any ideas where the problem might be found??? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      No Samuel, just for the fans and compressors.

      Randy

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      Samuel Miller 3 weeks ago

      I have replace the start capacitor and run capacitor on both roof A/C's.... are there other capacitors?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Samuel, have you checked the capacitors yet? A weak cap may cause the problem using a generator to power the ACs.

      Randy

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      Samuel Miller 3 weeks ago

      Okay, ordered a new power transfer switch, swapped out the old one, fired up the generator, started an A/C and it operated normally. Engaged the 2nd A/C, the amps surged, and disconnected the generator. I am at a loss as to what to do next.

      Running on shore power, I can run both A/C's.

      If there is a short circuit, I have no idea how to find it and eliminate it?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Joe, more than likely those wires are from the switch. Check the switch to see if it is working correctly as this is a common problem. Also, check the chandelier for proper grounding. Is this fixture 12 volt DC or 110 volt AC powered?

      Randy

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      Joe Darling 3 weeks ago

      I have a 2014 Laredo made by Keystone chandelier over table does not work no power coming to the wires just happened not too long ago always did work all all the lights work check fuses and Breakers all seem to be fine and its suggestions Only has two wires coming out of ceiling

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Joel, this could have been a park power issue but I doubt it as the voltage in most parks are monitored with safety devices to prevent such. I'd keep an eye pealed for further power converter problems just in case.

      Randy

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      Joel 3 weeks ago

      I have a 2005 Gulf Stream. My power converter started to smoke so I un-plugged the city power right away. after we got back home I plugged it in to our home power and everything seems to be working fine. The fan is turning, all electrical devices are working and I'm getting 12.8 volts to the battery's. Could it have been a park power issue or is it time for a new converter.......... Thank you for your input. JP

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Mike, does your AC have a wall mounted thermostat? If so, I suspect the power converter is at fault. Try connecting a good battery charger and if everything works fine, then the converter is bad.

      Randu

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      mike canady 3 weeks ago

      First time travel trailer owner. Maiden voyage went to full RV hookup site and everything worked great for half the day AC - lights- microwave then AC stopped working and lights slowly dimmed then out. second day AC worked fine but lights did same thing dimmed until going out. Any ideas ? Also microwave worked the whole time both days so no problems there.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Sam, the guy at the company may be correct.

      Randy

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      Samuel Miller 4 weeks ago

      Yes indeed, it doesn't matter which one is started first.

      I called and talked to the company that makes the power transfer switch, and he wanted to sell me a new one. He said the generator contactor needed to be replaced.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Sam, have you tried starting the 2nd ac first to see what happens?

      Randy

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      Samuel Miller 4 weeks ago

      Still haven't solved this: RV running on generator. 120 V+- at both terminals of power transfer switch. Start 1st roof A/C, everything keeps running. Start 2nd roof A/C; when its compressor kicks on, the power transfer switch kicks off. The generator keeps running and generating 120V+- to the transfer switch. After a few seconds, the transfer switch cycles (clicks), and then cycles (clicks) kicks back off.

      Is this maybe that the control panel of the power transfer switch is damaged and needs to be replaced?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Glenn, check the battery negative ground where it attaches to the frame of the camper. You need a clean connections here.

      Randy

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      GLENN 4 weeks ago

      HELLO HOW R U HAVING LIGHT PROBLEMS ON MY CAMPER CONNECTION ON MY TRUCK IS FINE CONNECT EVERYTHING NO LIGHTS

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Brad, Check the negative battery cable where it's connected to the steel frame of the camper. This is the main ground for the 12 volt DC system and is prone to corrode. A bad ground here will cause all sorts of problems such as you mentioned. Let me know if this doesn't solve the problem.

      Randy

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      Brad 4 weeks ago

      Hi, I'm having issues with my camper. Just changed the converter and battery but still have issues with battery not holding charge and runs down rather quickly. Not sure what to do next. Any advice??

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello again Samuel, it may indeed be the generator as you've pretty much covered the AC end. Perhaps the generator isn't putting out as many amps as it once did. I'd be interested to know if it is indeed the generator and if it is please let me know if it's no problem. Thanks Sam!

      Randy

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      Samuel Miller 4 weeks ago

      Replaced both the start and run capacitor on each of the two A/C's. As before, they run just fine on shore power, but not on the generator I am definitely open for more ideas on how to resolve this.

      Here is what I noticed today: when on the generator, the battery monitor started out showing 100% charge, but when I started an A/C, the battery charge readout dropped to 76% and kept slowly dropping to 72%. I turned everything off, and plugged shore power back on. The battery charge readout shows 100%; I then started both A/C's, the battery still shows fully charged, and both A/C's are cooling the RV.

      So that may suggest the problem lies somewhere in the generator / RV 120v system / battery charging area?

    • profile image

      Michael Gray 4 weeks ago

      Everything that runs on 12V is working. When I plug into shore power or run the generators, everything works including the AC. However, the Microwave and the Fridge show no power at all. no display on the microwave and the 12V display on the refrigerator works, but won't turn on. Also, I checked the plug for the fridge and it has power. Everything works in the coach, but this two items.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Michael, can you give me a bit more info?

      Randy

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      Michael Gray 4 weeks ago

      If have a 2003 Holiday Rambler Vacationer. When hooked to shore power or running the generator, the fridge and microwave have no power. What may the problem be?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Samuel, more than likely either one or both of the ACs needs the compressor start/run capacitors replaced.

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      Samuel Miller 5 weeks ago

      Hello. We are second owners on this 2004 Monaco Camelot since December, 2015. Both roof A/C's worked normally on either shore power or generator. In the last week, however, when using the generator, only one A/C can be run. Regardless of which A/C is started, when the second one is engaged, it appears that when the compressor on the second A/C kicks in, the generator responds by disengaging from the RV electrical system. The generator keeps running, and no breakers are tripped, but the power is disengaged for about 30 seconds before re-energizing.

      Any idea on the cause of this problem, and any suggestions on how to correct it would be appreciated.

      Thank you.

    • profile image

      Samuel Miller 5 weeks ago

      Hello. On my 2004 Monaco Camelot, both A/C's ran normally while connected to both shore power and generator. Just recently, I can only power up one A/C while running on the generator. It doesn't matter which A/C I start first, when I activate the second one, it appears that a large enough spike in amps is created that the generator disconnects from the RV electrical system. The generator keeps running, no breakers are tripped, but the electrical supply from generator to RV is interrupted for maybe 30 seconds before reintroducing power.

      If I reconnect to shore power after this event, both A/C's can be run normally.

      Any idea what is causing this problem, and how may it be corrected?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Sharon, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. A bad ground here will cause your problem. After cleaning the connection here if the system is still down try connecting a good battery charger to the batteries. If this solves the problem the converter is probably bad.

      Randy

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      Sharon St Clair 5 weeks ago

      We own 2015 Thor Chateau class c our 12 volt system stopped working this past weekend or 110 everything works when plugged in . We checked fuses and replaced the batteries with no change . Any ideas

      Thanks

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Sandy, There should be an access panel you can remove to get to this part of the camper and it may indeed be in the bathroom. Look for a removable panel usually held in place with screws.

      Randy

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      Sandy Migaj 5 weeks ago

      Hi Randy, I have a 2012 Heartland travel trailer 26'. It has a back bathroom and 2 bunks. When I unplugged it last time we camped, I accidentally pushed the plug completely inside the compartment. Is there a way to get access to this compartment from inside the trailer. I cannot grab the plug to pull it back out. I believe I would need to get there from the bathroom, but not sure.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Dan, did you install the 30 amp recept yourself, or did you have it done?

      Randy

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      Dan 5 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      I'm another newbie in travel trailer ownership, i have a 2002 24' polomino. I just had a 30 amp plug ran at my house so i could plug in there. When i try plugging in the trailer it arcs at the receptacle. I've put a meter on the new outlet and it is not tripping, so it seems fine. And then i tried turning off the breakers in the trailer and tried again, still arcing. Ideas? Any help would be appreciated.

      Thanks

      Dan

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Steven, let me know if you don't find the problem, and thanks for the nice comments.

      Randy

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      Steven calaway 5 weeks ago

      Randy you're the man. I haven't tried yet but will after work. It HAS to be a short in the circuit. Wish I knew the routing of the wire. Guess all I can do is work my way back from the first good light and see if maybe I punctured the wire with a screw or something while installing the new lights. Like those old Christmas lights, 1 broken bulb ruins everything. Thanks again for the reply, and so fast! Wish I could give you internet points or something lol

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Steven, this sounds like a bad ground somewhere. Usually the light fixture itself serves as a ground if mounted on a metal surface and these type lights may not have a ground wire. If the surface the light fixtures are mounted to are fiberglass or plastic then a ground wire is used. If many lights are on the same circuit--as yours apparently are--then a bad ground or short in the 12 volt power wire is more than likely the culprit.

      Randy

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      Steven calaway 5 weeks ago

      Hi Randy. Quick question from a struggling newbie. 1992 Coachmen Catalina Lite- I replaced all exterior running lights and brakelights with newer LEDs. the 4 orange running lights on the front half of the trailer lit up with no problems. The back halfs running lights(orange ones on side and red on top of the back)doesn't work and they aren't getting power. Brakelights work fine. I removed each new light and there aren't any knicks in the power cable and I'm completely dumbfounded. Any ideas?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      No problem, RN. Let me know what you find and I'll put it on my list of possibilities to assist others with similar problems. :)

      Randy

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      RN Carstensen 6 weeks ago

      RE: 2000 Wildwood T25-

      The other day my meter was showing a .7 amp drain on the batteries with everything shut off including the refer and WH. Today shows no drain. I re-hooked up the batteries and we will see if the problem returns. If it does I will try and isolate the problem by removing fuses. Thanks for your help.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Larry, I've had so many questions the last few days I've forgotten your particular problem. It's better send me an email by using the contact author link at the top of my article. Sorry, it's been a madhouse the last few days!

      Randy

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      Larry Hinkle 6 weeks ago

      Any ideas on where to start? I tried removing each fuse one at a time and resetting every circuit breaker one at a time but no luck. I also tried to disconnect the battery but no luck.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Larry, perhaps there's a short in the mechanism but it shouldn't affect the 110 volt system.

      Randy

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      Larry hinkle 6 weeks ago

      Yes that's it

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Larry, are you speaking of the emergency brake which engages if the camper comes loose from the towing vehicle?

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      Larry Hinkle 6 weeks ago

      We have a 2014 palomino solaire 24ft Travel Trailer and just had some work done. Our dealer had replace the slide mechanism on the slide out and install a fantastic fan. Prior to the work everything worked fine except during our last move the slide out jammed in the open position so we had to disengage the motor to force the slide out in. During that process the slide out bent and the dealer had to order a new one. After the repair we towed the rv to our site and disconnected it from the car and them into the 110 outlet. From that point on the entire rv electrical system came on and off every 15 sec. Also the power cable to the emergency bake over heated. We disconnected the fuse in the fan and it seems to fix it. But after we took it to the dealer and they replaced the cable and tested the fan all seemed fine. They used the external power cable from the dealer to power it. But after we got to the site and tried to set it up again the power did the same thing on an off every 15 secs. Also the cable heated up again and this time removing the fan fuse did not help. But I did notice a clicking sound from where the cable for emergency brake goes into a little box under the trailer. We have had the campground test the outlets and they work fine.

      Any ideas would be helpful

      Larry

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      RN, are you disconnecting power from the camper or simply turning off everything? You do realize the thermostats on both the fridge and HW heater operate on 12 volts, don't you? Have you tried either removing the main fuse or turning off the main breaker in the 12 volt DC power panel to see if the drain is continuing?

      Randy

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      RN Carstensen 6 weeks ago

      Have a 2000 Wildwood T25, 1 slide, gas/elect refer, gas water heater. Dual batteries (12 v) that fully charge in a few hours either while driving or from 110v source. Both batteries drop to 10.3v overnight with everything turned off. Is here something obvious I should look for that is draining the batteries?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Check the ground on the chandelier to make sure it is grounded properly. A loose connection is probable.

      Randy

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      I have a 2014 Laredo camper made by Keystone chandelier over table does not work always did check wire no power going to check fuses they all say they're okay don't can't figure out what is wrong all  7 weeks ago

      I have a 2014 Laredo made by Keystone chandelier over table does not work no power coming to the wires just happened not too long ago always did work all all the lights work check fuses and Breakers all seem to be fine and its suggestions

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Yes Karl, if the fuse is blown this may be the problem.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Rita, clean the negative battery cable where it connects to the metal frame of the camper, If this doesn't help then the converter may be bad.

      Randy

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      Karl 7 weeks ago

      I just checked the trailer at the converter and the volts are 6.5 .

      I also gave you the wrong model its a Solaris T 264sr by Sunline. Is the fuse by the batter box for the charging circuit?

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      Rita 7 weeks ago

      My trailer will not run on battery power. I recently replaced the battery. What might be wrong?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

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      karl 7 weeks ago

      Thanks Randy I will check these spots. It has an American Enterprises converter cs4500xl which does not look like is made any longer do you have a recommendation?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Karl, this sounds like a converter problem. You should get a reading of 13+ volts at the battery if the converter is good. Try cleaning the negative battery cable where it connects to the frame of the camper. There may also be a fuse/breaker in-line on the positive battery cable near the battery or the converter. If none of these suggestions work then a new converter may be in your future. Feel free to ask for more info if needed.

      Randy

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      Karl 7 weeks ago

      I have a Sunline camper when put away in the fall all was good. Put the battery into it this year now nothing is working. There is 110 in and out to the outlets. Battery draws down to 4v when breakers are on. Slide does not come out etc. any ideas?

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Cher, unless you have an onboard generator you cannot run the outlets on batteries.

      Randy

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Mark, the white wire should be hot but the black is the main neutral. I suspect the converter is bad.

      Randy

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      Cher 7 weeks ago

      We have a 2005 Starcraft travel star. Can't find the power switch to run off the batteries to use the outlets and the microwave. Anyone have a clue where it's at?

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      Mark 7 weeks ago

      Hi Randy!

      We have a 2008 Salem LE. I'm up at our camp and plugged into a 30a plug. Everything was seeming fine. Running well, etc... I noticed that a breaker had tripped (the one for our converter) I turned it on and within about 30 seconds a sound started and thick white smoke came pouring out of the box and then the breaker (15a) tripped. Now I'm plugged back into a 120v 15a.

      The plug has (after testing it) green ground white has power and black has power too... where's the neutral?

      Any help you can offer would be great!

      Mark

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hey Geri, the converter is probably bad then. Have you had any problem with the lights or with the battery going dead? You can try using a good battery charger to see if everything works without the converter fuse plugged in, and if so, the converter is at fault.

      Randy

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      Geri 7 weeks ago

      Hey Randy,

      We did what you suggested last week Tuesday to solve the electrical problem on our 2002 StarCraft camper. Working left to right, the first three fuses were fine. The in-line fuse popped when the converter fuse (far right) was plugged in. We checked the wiring from the battery to the converter and can't find any loose or cut wires. Is there anything else we should check?

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Traye, the power converter is usually near the 12 volt power panel containing the fuses or breakers for the 12 volt DC system. It may be located in an outer access panel as some are placed there. Follow the positive battery cable and it should lead you to the converter. There may be an inside access panel you have to remove.

      Randy

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      Traye Mc 7 weeks ago

      Randy, I have a 1994 Terry trailer that apparently has a bad power converter. Where is the thing located? I'm fairly confident its not in the interior. Before I cut into the bottom of the trailer, I would like some idea of where it is.

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Kurt, do you have any GFI outlets in your camper? If so, it's not uncommon for them to go bad and cause other outlets not to work. Can you tell me anything else about the problem?

      Randy

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      Kurt 7 weeks ago

      Hi Randy

      I have a 2010 Jayco tent trailer and interior lights a scene well as plugs don't work. Exterior light; Waterbury pump; and fridge work. Tested fuses.

      Now where? Camper is currently plugged into AC power.

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Charlotte, is there a transfer switch?. If so, I'd start there.

      Randy

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      PEASE, CHARLOTTE 7 weeks ago

      Hi, we have a 2005 Gulf Stream Conquest Motorhome. When the generator is started or when plugged in to power the microwave or electrical outlets do not work. Not sure where to start looking for the cause. Any help would be great.

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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Chuck, yes some trailers and RV use two 12 volt batteries to operate the 12 volt system.

      Randy

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      chuck 7 weeks ago

      does some travel trailers need 2 12v batteries to operate the controls?

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      Geri 8 weeks ago

      Thanks, Randy. We'll try it and see what happens. Appreciate your help. Big camping weekend coming up!!

      Geri

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      Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Geri, remove all of the fuses except the main then replace the fuses until you find the circuit causing the in-line fuse to blow. The short will be somewhere on the bad circuit.

      Randy

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      Geri 8 weeks ago

      Correction: it's a 2002 StarCraft.

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      Geri 8 weeks ago

      We have a 2003 StarCraft pop-up. Disconnected the battery for the winter and now the in-line fuse shorts out when connected to the terminal. Everything in the camper is shut down. There shouldn't be any draw on the battery or fuse. We can't figure out what's wrong. Any ideas?

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      Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Janine, there has to be a fuse block for the 12 volt system in the camper itself, otherwise there would be a good chance of fire or other electrical damage. Do you not have a power converter in the camper?

      Randy

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      Jannene 8 weeks ago

      Thanks for the response Randy ill have my husband check those things, im not sure there are any fuses for the 12 volt the wiring was sitting all bunched up and taped together on the floor as well as underneath the trailer, of course i dont really know much about 12 volt so maybe there are fuses would they be in the truck because i know for sure there are no 12 volt fuses in the trailer anywhere.

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      mikeboy 8 weeks ago

      Hello Randy,

      The electric jack in our 2011 starcraft autumn ridge stopped working, so i took it apart looking for the problem. After i unhooked the wires powering the jack, the jack ground wire touched metal and I heard a zap. Now the entire electrical system is not working. The water heater breaker flipped and was set back on. No fuses blew, with the possible exception of a black rectangular "20 amp auto reset" fuse or circuit breaker that i cannot see inside of. I can try replacing that auto reset piece, but do you have any other suggestions? Thanks.

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      Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Doug, which fusible link?

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      doug 8 weeks ago

      can anyone help me figure out why i keep blowing my fusible link when i start my motor home

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      Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Jeff, as you said, it's probably a short somewhere in one of the 12 volt items. Sorry I cannot be any better help in advising you.

      Randy

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      jeffk14 8 weeks ago

      Randy, thanks for the reply. The camper is currently hooked to shore power and has no battery installed. I found an owner's manual online and apparently, that is o.k. for this camper. The positive battery cable is isolated and not shorting to ground.

      My issue is that the load side of the fuse for the monitor circuit is shorted directly to ground. A faulty ground will not cause this. I guess that without a wiring diagram to go by, I'll just have to go through the process of elimination to see what all is on this circuit. If I can't find a faulty/shorted component, I'll just have to hunt for a wire shorted to the frame somewhere. Yuck...

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      Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Jeff, all of the items you mentioned not working are indeed on the 12 volt system so running down the short may be a trial and error effort. A few questions may assist me in figuring out the problem. Is everything on the 12 volt system routed through the monitor? And have you checked the negative battery cable where it attaches to the frame. A bad ground here will cause all sorts of weird problems. Also, check for an inline circuit breaker on the positive battery cable going to the converter. If your camper has one it will be located near the battery box or the converter.

      Randy

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      jeffk14 8 weeks ago

      I have a 2008 Palomino Puma travel trailer. The 15A fuse for the monitor circuit blows immediately when inserted. I have 12v to the hot side of the fuse and the load side of the fuse is shorted to ground. I am very familiar with electrical troubleshooting (35-year aircraft mechanic) but without a wiring diagram, I don't know what all is on this particular circuit. I also have a couple of outside lights not working, the ignitor for the gas water heater will not fire, the water pump will not come on and the light and fan in the range hood is inop. I'm thinking that there is a possibility that all these items might be on the monitor circuit. The monitor panel is completely dead. No lights at all, including the water pump and water heater switch lights. The electric water heater works though. I've already eliminated the water pump and the monitor panel itself from being the source of the short. By the way, I just bought this camper last week. Thanks!

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Jannene, if the 12 volts fuses powering the outside light are good, then there may be a bad ground on the first light in the series or a bad supply wire as well. This may be a trial and error hunt unless you can find the first light in the series. Also. check the ground on the wiring harness coming from the tow vehicle.

      Randy

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      Jannene 2 months ago

      My husband and i have an older 1969 Travel Trailer we tested the 12volt wiring all inside 12 volt works but none of the outside 12volts light work we also added a new 12 volt cord to connect to the truck, what could be causing none of the exterior lights to work?