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RV and Camper-Trailer Plumbing Repairs and Maintenance

Updated on March 19, 2017
Randy Godwin profile image

Randy is a life long lover of the outdoors and especially camping. This article is intended to help the RVer save money and time on repairs.

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Camper Plumbing Maintenance and Repairs

Doing plumbing repairs in your particular camping unit is a part of regular maintenance. Inspection at the beginning of the season is a must if your sojourns to our great campgrounds are to be a success. No one, especially your campsite neighbors, wants an RV sewer system acting up during vacation time.

By checking the RV plumbing at least annually, you can prevent or fix most plumbing problems before they cause trouble. Leaky faucets should be fixed as soon as possible by replacing the rubber seals and valve seats, just as you would in your home. It is a good idea to replace them every two years even if they aren’t leaking.

Since these RV plumbing parts are usually only exposed to water a few times a year, they tend to dry out and become hard and brittle. If not changed, they may not seal correctly, or they may break. The same goes for the shower and bath fixtures.

RV Water Supply Lines

The water supply lines in an RV can be of different materials, but all have one purpose: to deliver water to the sink, bath, shower, or toilet. Plumbing materials for RVs need to be flexible because the plumbing flexes while the camper is being driven to and from the campsite.

Older camper units may use copper tubing, while newer models use flexible plastic materials. The copper tubing may require a flare tool to connect the pieces when you are replacing or repairing a broken water line, while the plastic tubing uses rubber or plastic pressure fittings to ensure a good seal. These parts can be found in most Home Depot or Lowe’s building supply stores.

Easiest Plumbing Repairs Ever!

Cash Acme U248A Shark Bite 90-Degree Elbow Push Pipe Fittings, 1/2-by-1/2-Inch
Cash Acme U248A Shark Bite 90-Degree Elbow Push Pipe Fittings, 1/2-by-1/2-Inch

SharkBite plumbing connections work on all types of pipes and require no glue to attach and also remove just as easy. Simply snap together for a leak-proof fit. Perfect for emergency repairs when away from home. For all sizes of pipes.

 

How RV Toilets Work

Toilets in RVs and camper trailers use different mechanisms than toilets use at home. Instead of retaining water in them at all times, toilets in campers use a trapdoor-type slide plus a water flush component to dispose of the waste. The water connection to the toilet is no different than used at home.

One of the most common problems with the toilet is incomplete closing of the sliding trap door. When operating correctly, the slide fits snugly into a groove. After a period of time, bits of toilet paper may become lodged in the groove preventing the slide from closing tightly. This will allow air to seep from the waste holding tank, causing an odor problem. Carefully clean this groove with a small piece of wire until the slide seats properly into the groove.

Size Doesn't Matter

RV Plumbing Repairs Are Usually Simple

Another common problem with an RV waste system is the short life of the rubber seals contained in the outside valves that lead from both the gray-water and black-water holding tanks. These seals are merely rubber o-rings which fit tightly around the slide valve rods.

These need changing at least every three years because of their exposure to chemicals in the gray or black water tanks. A messy job yes, but better to do it at home than in the campground. Inspect both RV holding tanks regularly also.

Any leaks can be easily repaired with patching kits made especially for this purpose. Be sure to follow directions on these products as the hardening time is very short.

In most cases, the sewer lines are ordinary ABS black plastic tubing. This kind of pipe, as well as elbows, couplings, and other connections for it, can also be purchased at Lowe’s and Home Depot.

You may even want to extend the drain hook up closer to the edge of the unit for easier connection. These repairs only require the correct couplings and a can of cement. It is not a bad idea to carry spare couplings, tubing, and glue along with you on your trips, just in case.

Keeping your RV camping unit in good shape is an ongoing job, but well worth the effort. By doing an annual inspection you can rest easy while enjoying the great outdoors. And so can your camping neighbors.

RV Toilet Replacement and Repair

Eventually the RV toilet may need replacing because of wear and tear, or because the plastic used in some older-type RV toilets can become so brittle it cracks around the flushing valves or where it attaches to the floor.

Depending on which type of RV toilet you decide to replace your old one with, you can spend from around $100.00 to over $200.00. Low-profile toilets or oversize models can be substituted for the older model camper toilet if you so choose.

In most cases, a new camper toilet can be purchased for a little more than the cost of the parts to repairing an older model. These newer, more efficient model RV toilets have easy-to-operate flushing valves and better odor control features than the old types.

Check clearances and RV plumbing connections before changing the type of toilet you use. Follow installation instructions closely to ensure proper operation. Unless the problems with your old RV toilet are minor, it is better to just replace it with a newer model than to repair it.

RV Hot Water Heater Replacement

Although many older RVs and camper-trailers used propane in their water heaters, today many campers use electric water heaters. Whichever type your camper uses, repair parts are available from most RV parts dealers. Heating elements and valves are usually the culprits needing repairing most often. Gas models need to be cleaned annually for safe and efficient operation. This may be a job for a professional unless you are knowledgeable about propane gas mechanics.

Eventually an RV water heater needs replacing. Today's energy-efficient models perform better and cheaper and may actually pay for themselves in gas savings over a period of time.

When ordering a new RV hot water heater ,make sure the dimensions and water capacity will suit your needs. Some changing of water supply fittings may be required. You may want to consider one of the "hot water on demand" type units for the kitchen or bathroom sink to keep from using water out of the main water heater. These units are great for eliminating leaky hot-water lines running from the main RV water heater; they only use the cold-water line.

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    • MikeNV profile image

      MikeNV 7 years ago from Henderson, NV

      Would like to find a hub on replacing RV Refrigerators. Very expensive and few manufacturers. Dealers charge a whole lot for what amounts to a glorified cooling chest.

      Many of the repairs you listed above can be done by the do-it-yourselfer.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 7 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Mike! I've already published a hub about refrigerator replacement. It's under RV Refrigeration and maintenance and repairs. I'm doing one now just for Airstream travel trailers. You simply but a small electric fridge from Lowe's or Home Depot and adapt it to the old fridge space.

      Thanks for the comments and your time!

    • profile image

      Mike 6 years ago

      Hi Randy:

      I'm having my faucet replace but while we were waiting for the faucet on order I pressed the fresh water button and there was water in the tank (didn't know), so water sprung up and onto the floor beneath the sink and cabinet area under the fridge. I soaked it up where I could but I'm wondering if any water go in to the furnas area next door, if it would be dangerous to turn on the furnas. Water did come out from under the cabinet area and around the corner and about half way front of the furnas cover. I can't get the cover off, the screws are on too tight so I can't check inside.

      There didn't appear to be a lot of water beneath the cabinets and I have let it dry out a couple days and all apears well, like no wet wood. Do you think it would be o.k. to use the furnas? Would it probably be dried out inside there? Should I wait and get an electric screwdriver to open it?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 6 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Mike!

      Your furnace should be fine to run as the ignition and burner are not very close to the floor at all. I would test run the furnace and watch it for a bit but I don't foresee a problem. It would take a direct soaking of water onto the burner area for damage to occur in most cases.

      Thanks for stopping by and for the question.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Mike 6 years ago

      That's good news, thanks much!

      I didn't see your article about buying a trailer verse a motorhome. In retrospect I probably would have opted for a motorhome. I'm learning. Good articles and thanks for all your good advice!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 6 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Glad to be of service, Mike. Both motorhomes and travel trailers have their pros and cons depending on the particular desires of the user. Thanks again for reading my articles and for posting your problem too. Others will no doubt find your experience useful.

      Randy

    • profile image

      arborist 6 years ago

      Hi Randy,

      When I turn off the bathroom faucets,they both leak.I tried to tighten the fittings,but they are secure.Should I loosen them and try using Teflon tape?If this doesn't work,my concern is that the cold water line is one piece that runs somewhere under the trailer. Can I cut this plastic pipe and use a compression fitting to make the necessary repairs?

      Thanks,Brad

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 6 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Brad,

      You should have cut-off valves between the fixture and the water supply lines so repairs can be made easier, Brad. Yes, you can cut the pipe and replace the supply lines with a better pvc coated flex line which should stop any leaks in the faucet connections.

      You can install cutoff valves while you are at it as they are very inexpensive and fit the flexible supply lines. Unfortunately, the plumbing in many RV's leaves much to be desired as many are mass produced with economy in mind.

      You might try taking the fittings loose to check for any loose or missing o-rings or rubber gaskets before replacing the supply lines. Just make sure the fixture itself is not at fault. A friend had a faucet fixture suddenly start flooding his brand new travel trailer while it was sitting still. You never know!

      Good luck with the repairs and thanks for your question!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Roger 5 years ago

      Hello,

      I have a leaking fresh water line under the raised toilet area, I have removed the toilet but there is no access to the water line. I looked outside and underneath the Class C. I have also removed the bathroom sink and part of the cabinet, I see where the water line enters the toilet area. Do i need to removed the rasied toiled area for access? Thank you!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Roger!

      Yes, in some cases the raised area will cover the waterline connections. It depends on the type of installation your RV uses. Access should be apparent in most cases though. Sorry, I cannot say for sure without viewing the installation.

      Thanks,

      Randy

    • profile image

      Roger 5 years ago

      Hi Randy,

      cont. from my previous question.

      I pulled the front portion of the rasied toilet section to expose the water line. It had a crack in the tee that went to the toilet. I cut out the old tee and went to home depot and bought a tee. I installed it with hose clamps but it leaked, I removed it and wrapped the it with teflon tape but it still leaks. The water line is the older gray color. Is there another type of tee and another way to install a tee?

      Thank you,

      Roger

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello again Roger! Go back to Home Depot and tell whoever is in the plumbing department what your problem is. There are several different adapters you may choose from to replace the old plumbing lines.

      One of the best and newest of these adapters is the "SharkBite" or "GatorBite" type fittings which require no threads or clamps to seal the joints and tees. You simply push the lines into the fittings for an easy, no leak seal. They come apart easy too! Check them out, you will be amazed at how simple they are to use!

      Good luck!

      Randy

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      nita 5 years ago

      i purchased a fema trailer and hooked it up the hot water lines were and still are full of a slimmy fungus. i cant get to the lines in the tub/shower what do i do?

    • profile image

      Phil 5 years ago

      I've got a cracked brass fitting at the end of a water line. How do I remove the old one and replace it. The line has copper compression rings on all the fittings?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Nita! You might try flushing the hot water lines where they connect to the water heater. By closing the valves at the sinks and leaving those in the tub/shower open, you can purge the hot water line by connecting a hose to the line at the water heater.

      There may be a type of line flushing chemical you could use just for this type of slime removal, but I'm not aware of any at the time.

      Otherwise, the tub/shower surround may have to be removed. Usually, there is a panel which enables one to access the area behind the tub/shower valve fixtures because of the necessity of servicing them.

      Good luck!

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Phil. If the copper line is long enough, simply cut it with a tubing cutter and purchase a new brass fitting and compression ferrule.

      If the line is too short for this repair, Make an extension using the same size copper tubing while connecting it to the new fitting you just installed.

      Anyone at a hardware store can help you with this repair if you take the old fitting and pipe you have cut off with you!

      Thanks for reading and good luck on your plumbing repairs!

      Randy

    • profile image

      James 5 years ago

      Hello,

      So I have a 1967 Santa Fe travel trailer that has a bad water system, from fresh water tank, water heater, fridge, black water tank and I need to replace all the lines. There is also some sag in the roof from a previous leak. The old owners painted all the interior white so I want to replace all the interior with fresh paneling. I also wouldn't mind putting new flooring in also. My question is in what order makes the most sense? It looks like ill be gutting most of the interior to redo everything...not sure where to start.

      Thanks,

      James

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello James. Sorry to take so long to answer your questions, but with so many other RV repair articles here I have been busy answering questions from RV owners preparing for the upcoming camping season.

      Since you plan to gut most of the interior it should be a simple matter to install new plumbing lines and new electrical outlets too. Usually these old classic camper trailers never have enough outlets for the new appliances.

      Microwave ovens often pull lots of amperage so you should place it on a circuit alone or with a low amperage accessory so the breaker won't be constantly needing to be reset when the microwave is in use.

      You may be interested in reading my other articles which deal with electrical and RV interior repairs, including replacing the floor.

      Good luck with your repairs and let me know how your project turns out. Thanks for checking out my articles!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Angie 5 years ago

      I have a split in the plastic fill line for my fresh water hose that goes into my holding tank. Will I have to drop the tank to install a new hose?? Or is there an easier way??

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      @Angie-It depends on your particular RV, Angie. Is there any other way to get to the hose except by dropping it? There are so many different mounting options it's hard to give you the correct procedure.

      Randy Godwin

    • profile image

      michael 5 years ago

      We bought a 2000 dutchman superslide. When I hooked up the water, it started leaking from the cold water hookup in the shower. I tried to plug it off cause we don't use the shower. What size is the water lines they look like a half inch but that size plug was to big and its about to drive me crazy thanks

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Michael, I cannot say for certain what size pipe is in your RV. I would suggest getting a "Shark Bite" or "Tiger Bite type of plug which will simply fit over the end of the pipe and plug it easily. Simply cut the supply line and push it on.

      These types of new plumbing connections will fit any kind of pipe too! Home Depot or Lowe's will have them. Simply measure the diameter of the pipe before buying one. I hope this will solve your problem for you.

      Thanks for the question and your time.

      Randy Godwin

    • profile image

      cory myhre 5 years ago

      Hello i have a 1979 forester travel trailer. It is my first camper and i have already had to patch the roof and replace a wall... Now i found out that all the copper water lines are busted. I am wondering what you would think would be the easiest/cheapest way to replace all of this? also is there a way to test or check the water heater? My next question is do i have to have a professional redo my propane lines or is this something i can do myself? thank you for your advice it is much needed!!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      @Cory Myhre-I would suggest using a flex line type water supply for replacing the plumbing using the "shark bite" type of connections. Easy installed and repaired with no chance of the lines vibrating and causing leaks.

      Is the water heater electric or gas? Both can be checked and should be no big problem to repair.

      It depends on your state laws concerning installing the new gas lines. A pressure check will be needed whatever you decide to do.

      Thanks for the questions and for visiting my articles.

      Randy Godwin

    • profile image

      Charles 5 years ago

      I was checking my travel trailer in preparation for its first trip out this season and when I flipped on the water pump I heard water spraying behind the shower surround where the faucet is. Obviously a broken or disconnected water line. Can I inspect and repair this myself? And how do I go about removing the surround without damaging things so I can put it back the way it was?

      Thanks.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Charles. In most cases there is an access panel located directly behind the shower plumbing fixtures just for the purpose of replacing or repairing them.

      Without being able to see your particular set-up, it is impossible for me to advise you on how to access the fixtures.

      They are easily repaired and the parts are usually inexpensive. Sorry I cannot help you more with your problem. Thanks for reading and for the question.

      Randy Godwin

    • profile image

      Charles 5 years ago

      Hey thanks Randy. I did find the access panel (pretty tight to get your arm into), and it turned out to be the plastic connector on the flex supply line broke off - this trailer is only a couple years old so I can only imaging that it must've been defective to start? Is the hot supply line in danger of going next? I suppose I should replace it with the same type, rather than a stainless steel flex supply line you would use in your house?

      Thanks.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Good news, Charles! Yes, I would replace the hot water supply line too because some of these trailers are notorious for having rather cheap plumbing fixtures and connections.

      If Flex lines will fit I would use them for replacements too. Often the movement of the trailer during transit will cause the cheap connections to develop leaks.

      Thanks for your question and for what you found out concerning your plumbing problem.

      Randy

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      Lloyd 5 years ago

      I have to replace the tubing from the valve to supply line on my RV hot water heater. What type of tubing is required on an indoor installation?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Lloyd, usually some type of flex line is required because of the movement of the pipes during transit. Older RVs used copper line but now there are several alternatives. Check out Lowe's or Home Depot.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Rita Smith 5 years ago

      Dutchman 32 ft, 1998, tub leaked and floor needs replaced! Gave contractor money for ne shower, well he took money and not been seen since, that was May!

      Went to police, he has no lic, dumb thing is he was sent here by good company! Lesson learned never pay for materials till they are in and working!

      Now how do I replace shower/tub that sits over wheel? I had priced the one piece units and have enough room then use the wheel as closet, my question is how do I bypass holding tank? By running pvc direct out and connect all three items: 2 sinks and tub?

      Yes, I'm in South, I want to wait till weather is cooler and storms pass!

      This RV is my son's whom is a student and Navy(16 yrs), he is helping me with his Dad whom has Dementia and Zi with canxer! When I m able this is therpy! I grew up on farm and hubby for 42 yrs we never had much money (Marines/Viet Nam) so Ii adapted! Now I enjoy the idea of 6 ft son getting a shower in a normal shower! He never complains but he has earned a better life! He is single and has served his ountry now his parents!

      Money was promised by Gov for school but they aren't paying him, we now need Free advice of how to do this!

      In March he and I rplaced walls and floor from RV sitting , with leak we weren't aware of! When ya sick, you go one day at a time!

      Now my day needs to be longer, i appreciate any help you can spare for our Navy son, and wore out parents! We are in RV behind him due to decrease in disability pay vs job!

      Thanks again...FYI.. Please excuse any weird words. Haven't figured out this spell checker!

      Email: ritasmith52@yahoo.com

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Rita. Yes, you can bypass the holding tank if you need to. In some cases it is possible to use the black ABS sewer or drain pipe to tap into the old shower drain line instead.

      Another option is to use a Tee or Y connection if you want to use the holding tank instead of bypassing it. ABS pipe and fittings are available at any Lowe's or Home Depot type building supply store.

      Sounds like you guys are doing a good job of rebuilding the RV, but feel free to ask for more info if needed. Good luck and thanks for your questions.

      Randy Godwin

    • profile image

      lew 5 years ago

      is it possible to raise toilet in a 79 banner royal camper ive a disabled person how'll use it

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Lew, yes it should be possible to construct a raised platform for the toilet in any sort of RV. Of course, extending the sewer connection and water supply will be required also.

      Feel free to ask for further info if necessary. Thanks for the question and for your time.

      Randy Godwin

    • profile image

      dg 5 years ago

      Hi, Randy!

      Our hot water line to the shower is leaking: at first in drips, then floods. We replaced with a flexible hose and PEX fittings and blue, and let dry overnight. When we turned on the hot water via the pump it seemed to work fine, but when we switched to the city connector (at 1/2 pressure) it blew the joint. What did we do wrong?

    • profile image

      dg 5 years ago

      *glue (not blue)

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hey DG! Try one of the "Sharkbite" type fittings and no glue is required for making the repairs. These no-glue connectors can also be removed easily if needed. Great for all household and RV plumbing applications. Get them at Home Depot or Lowe's builders supply.

      Randy

    • profile image

      brenda vannote 5 years ago

      for some reason our toilet is plugged up, we have the line , tries drano, sneakes ,pligging but nothing is working ,,,,,,, help

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Have you removed the toilet, Brenda? Often this is the only way to unplug a line in an RV.

      Randy

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      Sherry 5 years ago

      I have a 2006 Prowler camper with slide out...everything in the begining worked great but now have problems...We have had a couple of nites where the weather has gotten real cold and I ran the water to keep the lines from freezing up....everything was fine to start with now having problems...as far as I know nothing ever froze up but I came home the other day and the water wouldn't work at all in the camper...now im not talking using the water pump im talking hooking directly up to the city water....i have clean the filter where you connect the water hose up to the camper but it still wont work no water is coming out....now if i turn on my water pump and fill the tank I get water....but why cant I get any water while hook up to the city water??? Are there other filters I dont know about??? Any help you can give me would be appreciated!!!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Sherry! Yes, there may be a filter inside of the RV which may need cleaning or replacing. Some older models do not have them but it;s possible one may have added.

      There may also be a switch or valve which changes the system from pump to city water. I'm not familiar with this RV so I cannot give you more specific info at the moment.

      If nothing else, you might contact Prowler and ask for an explanation of how the water system works on your RV. In the meantime, I will see what i can find out and will post here with any pertinent info.

      If you find the solution before I do I would appreciate your posting it here to help others with the same problem. Thanks for reading and for your question!

      Randy Godwin

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      Paul 5 years ago

      I have a leak where the sewer line enters the tank and would like to know what sealant would be best to use.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 5 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Paul. It depends on what type of sewer line is used in your RV. If it is black ABS pipe you can find both fittings, pipe, and adhesives at any Home Depot or Lowe's builders supply. It may be necessary to remove a section of pipe and repair it with a new coupling to stop the leak. Feel free to ask if this is not the case.

      Randy

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      bill gray 4 years ago

      Hello Paul, how do i repair the connection that you hook up the hose to on the outside of the trailer, i

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 4 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Bill, you can find the repair parts at a Lowes or Home Depot in the plumbing department. Good luck with your repairs.

      Randy

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      travis 3 years ago

      how do i get a brken fitting out of the hot water tank

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Travis. What size fitting is it and is it easy to get to?

    • profile image

      Darryl 3 years ago

      How do i get the metal clamps off the hose leading into mt water heater

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Darryl, I'm not aware of what type clamps are on your H/W heater. Can you describe them for me?. You may have to simply cut them off and replace them with standard hose clamps. Sorry I cannot be of more assistance to you unless you can give me a bit more info.

      Randy

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      Dawn Ritzel 3 years ago

      Good afternoon, we just bought a 98 terry camper. We have great water pressure except for the shower. There is just a trinkle that comes out. What can we do?

      Thank you

      Dawn

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Dawn! There may be a pressure re-stricter in the shower assembly. I've discovered this being the problem before. You may also try removing the shower head and seeing if this increases the water pressure. Worse case scenario is disassembling the shower and/or faucet fixture and removing the restrictor. This is a round, flat plate with a tiny hole in the middle. Ask for more info if needed.

      RG

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      Leo 3 years ago

      What size is the black abs pipe where the gray tank drains at. I have a leak and I have to fix it

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      There is no universal size, Leo. The pipe usually runs from 1 1/2" up to three inches in diameter. measure your pipe and go to Home Depot or Lowe's and find the match. Hope this helps you out and thanks for the question.

      Randy

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      cnev 3 years ago

      we have a 2003 Fleetwood prowler travel trailer. we found a leak under the bathroom sink coming from one of the red tubes to the left side of the grey valve, which I call t valve. I had tighten it a few times and it stopped leaking , now the water is leaking more, I put tape around it as this is all new to me and I don't know what to do. I was told to disconnect the grey t valve from the other tubes and get a replacement at homedepot. I don't know what the grey t valve is called, and ive been reading most of your resposnses to ther peoples commnets as to the use of shark bite or gatorbite. do you think this will help/ or should I just get a replacement of the same tvalve to be safe. I hope this will work as it is saturating my bathroom floor. your response is greatly appreciated.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      The gray valve is called a cut-off valve, cnev. The simplest thing to do is remove it and take it to a Home Depot, Lowe's, or simply a local hardware store. Anyone worth their wages at these places will have no trouble getting you a replacement valve to replace the original, or an adapter valve with SharkByte or similar easy installation fittings. Don't fear these plumbing problems as they aren't difficult to repair the majority of the time.

      --RG

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      nyles 3 years ago

      I have a 1980 24 ft nomad trailer. The copper lines for the kitchen and bathroom faucets won't stay in the plastic connection that hooks to the bottom of the faucet. Can you buy new connections or is there a better fix?

    • profile image

      Rudy 3 years ago

      Hi I have a leak in the front part of our 2009 Springdale camper. It's a few feet I front of the water tank and can't get access to it. Not sure if I should cut into under pinning of camper or go through the floor. Any suggestions?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Nyles, sorry to be so late in responding to your question but I've been a bit under the weather the last few days. Yes, you should be able to find new connections or even some which will do a better job of sealing the lines. Good luck and feel free to ask for more info if needed.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Rudy, without seeing the layout of your RV I'm hesitant to suggest the best way to access the leaking pipe. Just guessing, I would prefer going underneath rather than through the floor itself. This is merely a guess though. Sorry I can't be more help on your query. Do feel free to ask more questions if needed.

      Randy

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      Lindsey Kubik 2 years ago

      We recently purchased a 1999 Terri fleetwood. We took it camping and had a clog in the pipes. We then noticed water dripping from the bottom of the camper, and also at the two small drain pipes at the back (the ones to winterize the camper) So we got some drain cleaner and a plunger and went at it.

      We unclogged the drain, but its still dripping, especially from the two small drain pipes at the back. The pipes are made from the almost see through plastic. My husband says to replace those we have to replace all the piping underneath because they don't make that specific pipe anymore. I would love to believe him but he's a girly man :) so I don't.

      Do you have any suggestions?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      I suggest you try using some of the Shark-byte fittings as they will work on almost any type of pipe or tubing. There are some advertised on this page and when clicked on they will take you to other types and sizes of repair fittings. Good luck on your repairs and feel free to ask for more info if needed.

      Randy

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      Alicia 2 years ago

      Hello, I have a fema camper. The water worked great for a while. Then, one day, out of the blue, went to shower, and no water. The water tank is filling up and getting hot like it is supposed to. I can turn the valve and get the water to come on in the sink and turn the valve again to turn it off, but nothing in the shower. I have drained the water tank, and filled it up again. It seems to be working fine. I am at a lose. Any ideas would be appreciated.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Alicia, The plumbing in some of the FEMA trailers is very badly done as I had friend who had one and also experienced problems with his. Is the cold water not working either? Does your camper have an on-board water tank other than the H/W heater?

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      alicia 2 years ago

      it doesn't have and on-board water tank. It hooks up to an outside source with a waterhose. The cold is not working either. Sorry, I should have put that. The water is going to the water heater and heating up, just not running through the plastic tubes when we turn on the facets.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Sounds like you have a blockage somewhere, Alicia. Have you checked the screen where the hose attaches to the camper? If there's no screen to catch the debris then you may have a blockage in the small cut-off valves going to the bath and kitchen fixtures. They are prone to being clogged with debris because of their small openings. I'd start checking the closest valve to where the hose is attached first and work your way to the furthermost valves.

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      Jonnyboy 2 years ago

      hi, I recently picked up a used 1990 gulfstream innsbruck, I am not expeirianced at rv. I was in a pinch to find lodgings in a small and completely full town which ill be working from. I know a coworker jad it sitting last fall and it was offered to me then. Asked about it die to sheer necessity. I managed to figure out most functions..but the first time I used the shower I musnt have been draining properly as it flooded a bit. I have inspected both of the two holes and havnt I.d. any leaks.. I ran thw hot and cold separate and then together and no sign of leaking.. the faucet inspetion hole is awkward to say the least. Haha and the drain one is yeilding no results either. Water on floor.. none on pipes. Dry to touch (I dab papertowl to see if it absorbs anyhing) it did not. The walls in the shower are the same wallpaperd panel board as the rest of the camper. It has hadsemi-recent silicone around the tub trim, I suspected it may have been just outrite channeling uner the tub through crappy sealing.. but I am also a big ladd (about 280lbs) I noticed a posible culprit aswell, if pressure is put directly around the drain flange a minute amiunt of space can be observed. I figured it might get through.. but it seemed to be alot. The unit is drainig (dripping) outside below the tub area. There's is a large black membrain stretched across the underbelly of the unit so I cant see up.. any thoughts? I was goint to try to put a curtain arount the inner shower wall to divert water to the tub rather than let it channel through all the siliconed pannel joints and junctions where the tub meets the interior walls (not a surround)

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      @Johnnyboy--Have you filled the tub without using the shower, or can you do that on your model? If you can, you can narrow the problem down if water still drips from beneath the camper. If it doesn't, that should indicate water is getting past the silicone barrier along the tub and side panels.

      Randy

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      Randy 2 years ago

      I'm at a loss I have replaced a faucet in my 1974 camper and on the hoyt water side of the faucet it leaks and I thought it wasn't tight enough but it's as tight as I can get it the faucet is new

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      It may be the supply line is damaged, especially if it was not replaced along with the faucet. It isn't uncommon for this to happen when a plumbing fixture of any kind is replaced. Also, just because a faucet is new doesn't guarantee it to be without flaws as I learned the hard way long ago.

      Thanks for the question and feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

      Randy

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      Tera 2 years ago

      my core unit is parked at a camp site with water access. We disconnect it between weekend use bc it's winter time and temps frequently fall to freezing. Well came back and hooked up the water and can't get water throughout the camper. (A very tiny stream of water will drop from any one water source of your choice like the kitchen sink or the bath sink but nothing more). If you tirn that same sink off for a period of time the water will for a few second come out more generously but then reduce back to that tiny stream. The water pump and its fresh water tank does supply water but am so frustrated bc we can't figure out why water is no longer coming out with the proper amount of pressure consistently. Please please provide me a ck list of items as I am desperate and in a very rural area with no options to take to a service shop. I would have to tow it approx 3 hours away to get done professionally. I'm desperate for your assistance. It's a 2010 grey wolf camper.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Tera, have you disconnected the hose from the RV to see if there's a restriction? If not, then do so and check the filter screen where the hose connects to the RV to see if you have pressure to the unit.

      You may also have a restriction valve on the hose or the faucet itself which may be clogged when the water was turned back on. Often debris will clog the screen or valve when the pressure resumes. Feel free to ask for more info if needed. :)

      Randy

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      yvonne Hannington 2 years ago

      Hi, we have taken our Hymer out for the first time it is a B544, we seem to have trouble with the awatersystem, when we try to flush the tiolet only a small amount of water gose doen the tiolet, the rest is running out side the van just forward of the bathroom , there is a small pipe that has a diaganal cut to it that the water is comiung out of, how do we stop the water going this way it isd clean water.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Yvonne, there should be a valve outside of the bathroom which slides in to close the system. I'm confused as to why a small amount of water is flushing down the toilet, however. Perhaps a bit more info may help me solve your problem.

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      david 2 years ago

      On a 2005 fema trailer the switch above the cabinet quit all of a sudden and the hot water heater will not come on.we checked the fuses but all are good .hot water heater will not come on at all.this happened when it started raining .the light will not light up on the switch when its turned on.i dont know what do you think.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 years ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi David, have checked all of the GFI(ground fault interrupter) outlets near the sinks in the bath and kitchen? They have a reset button which can easily trip off if any moisture comes in contact with the outlet. This may have had something to do with the rainy weather or not.

      Check the 12 volt fuse panel for a blown fuse or tripped breaker as the thermostat on the HW heater is operated by the 12 volt system. Hope this info helps you out. :)

      Randy

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      Linda 24 months ago

      I would like to known where the fuse box is its a 1985 model

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 24 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Linda, the only thing I can tell you is it will usually be near where the power cable comes out of the camper. Look inside for a panel or access door near the cable exit.

      Randy

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      StanLogan 23 months ago

      The gate valve form the holding tank on my '63 Mallard Drake is cracked. How do I replace it without replacing the entire holding tank. All the piping appears to be glued in place.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 23 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Stan, all of the gate valves I've repaired or replaced use screws to attach to the holding tank. However, your camper is an older model and may have a different method for mounting the gate valve. Is the piping black ABS type? If so, you may find what you need at Lowe's or Home Depot.

      Randy

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      JimG 21 months ago

      just wondering if anyone makes updated wheel hub kits for the onlder trailer wheels so you can use standard wheels and tires

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      Randy Godwin 21 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Depends on the size of the wheels and tires, Jim.

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      Scott Keyek 21 months ago

      Just bought 1994 Passport by Cobra, hooked up city water in a few minutes water starts pouring out the bottom of the rv. I guessing it's a cracked or split inbound water line, is there a way to check this and fix?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 21 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Scott, in most cases you can easily repair or replace bad water lines if you can get to them without tearing something out of the RV. I hope you used a pressure reduction adapter, and if not, the city water pressure may be the cause of the leaks thus far.

      Check into using Sharkbyte quick connections for all sizes and types of plumbing repairs. They are simple and easy to use on most plumbing repairs. Let me know if I can further assist you when you find the problem. :)

      Randy

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      dan R. 20 months ago

      I have a terrible leak under the tub in my Coachman 1988 camper 29 ft. How do I remove the tub to repair the leak?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 20 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Dan, is the tub itself leaking or is it the plumbing fixtures or the drain the problem?

      Randy

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      Susan Hunsperger 19 months ago

      RANDY, have a 2015 trailer with 3 tip outs that my inlaws live it, they just came in and told us that there is water on the floor. about 1 inch from the bathroom to the bedroom. Where do we begin to try to find the leak? It is hooked into our well water and our septic. All has been great until now. Suggestions?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 19 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Susan, sorry to be late in responding to your query but I've just now logged in. It sounds as if the leak is coming from a fixture in the bathroom. I assume you've already disconnected the water supply which makes finding the leak a bit more difficult. First check the connections on the bathroom toilet , sink and shower/tub. You may have to remove some access panels for the sink and tub.

      It may be necessary to have someone turn the water pressure back on when the access panels are removed to find the leak. Some trial and error is often called for. Ask for more info if needed. :)

      Randy

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