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Troubleshooting and Repairing RV Electrical Problems for the Beginner

Don is a retired engineer and long-time motorhome owner who enjoys helping readers deal with the increasingly complex technology of RVs.

A typical pair of coach batteries that you might find on an RV, and their connections. Two 6-volt DC batteries, connected in series, provide the 12-volt power that powers many lights and controls.

A typical pair of coach batteries that you might find on an RV, and their connections. Two 6-volt DC batteries, connected in series, provide the 12-volt power that powers many lights and controls.

Electrical Problems in RVs: For the Novice

Electrical problems in an RV or camper are very common, and often RV owners don’t know where to start when they deal with them.

This article provides some basic information for the RV owner to help diagnose and repair electrical problems efficiently and safely. I'd like you to:

  • Understand your RV electrical system in general.
  • Learn how to do some very basic troubleshooting on your RV.

First: Know the Difference Between a Major and a Minor Electrical Problem

If you own or rent an RV, you will want to know enough to at least make a walk-around inspection before you go on the road, especially of the electrical system. Even a novice can learn how to inspect for problems, and determine if the problem is major or minor.

A major problem, for example, may be present when a refrigerator stops working, and you wonder if you should look into the wiring and propane-management circuitry on the back of the fridge or not. For the electrical novice, the answer is no; stay away from such repairs yourself. They are too dangerous, especially when they involve AC power or propane. You should always contact a qualified service tech for resolving such problems.

But a minor problem, one you could address on your own, could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker or GFI that has "kicked out," replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, taking an educated guess as to what caused the breaker or fuse to shut off, or checking the water in your battery.

So how do you tell? Before you start with any hands-on troubleshooting, keep in mind that safety comes first.

Before you start opening panels and messing around with electrical systems, in an RV or camper or at home, observe these warnings.

WARNING 1: If you do not know what you are doing, do not touch anything, and call your RV manufacturer, or RV Roadside Assistance company, or if at home, your local certified electrician. Remember, again, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!

WARNING 2: If replacing a blown fuse or resetting a kicked breaker doesn’t fix the problem, you should seriously consider backing off and calling your RV manufacturer's Service Center for advice before doing anything else.

Now—with these warnings in mind—here are some minor problems that you may be able to fix, and some diagnostics that you can run yourself.

Troubleshooting Your RV's Electrical Problems

Every problem is different, but before or after you read the discussion just below of the basics of your system, check the four sections further below on troubleshooting common problems:

  1. Fuses and breakers
  2. The 12-volt system
  3. The power source
  4. Appliance current draws

Plus I include a section on terms and abbreviations that you may run across while doing your electrical investigation.

Some Basic Electrical Information for the RV Owner

A modern RV contains a lot of built-in electrical devices. And along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry designed to protect the RV and its occupants.

Starting with the absolute basics, your RV's appliances can be powered in three different ways. Appliances may use any of these three power sources, individually or in combination.

  • The AC (alternating current) electrical system (generally 115 volts), which runs the air conditioner and some other devices.
  • The DC (direct current) system (12 volts), which runs the lights, switches, slides, and thermostats.
  • In addition, refrigerators and some appliances run on propane fuel.

AC power comes into the RV from your generator, or from the campground or other outlet you plug it into: a 20-amp, 30-amp, or 50-amp supply. The AC power control panel distributes this power to the appliances and outlets that use AC power, for example the air conditioner. The campground supplies AC power on two different wires: a 240-volt supply is split into two "legs" of 115 volts or so.

Your DC power comes from a battery or batteries (like in the picture above). Whenever the power stored in the batteries gets low, the converter charges it up. The converter uses the higher-voltage AC power that comes in from the campground or generator through the 115-volt AC breaker panel and converts it to 12-volt DC.

The converter that charges your 12-volt batteries is often called an "inverter." "Inverter" is actually the name for another device most RVs have that changes 12-volt DC power to 115-volt AC for use in televisions and such.

The 12-volt output of your converter likely goes through two 30-amp fuses that feed your 12-volt fuse panel. The 12-volt DC power goes to the lights, switches, and slides, and to the controls of many appliances including the heater/air conditioner and refrigerator.

Both electrical systems can develop weakness in many places, especially when being hauled around on trips. Any RV or towed vehicle vibrates in transit. And these vibrations will, at times, shake electrical connections loose, in addition to the wear and tear that wires and appliances go through in normal use. If a wire has its insulation rubbed off, or something inside an appliance shakes loose or burns out, then current can stop flowing in your 12-volt or 115-volt system. Or it can flow into a place where it is not supposed to flow, causing a “short,” and this excessive flow of current can burn out wires and appliances, or in the worst case cause a fire or injury.

Because of these risks, the RV will have breakers or fuses to shut off power if anything goes wrong:

  • a set of AC fuses or breakers to interrupt the 115-volt AC power coming from outside the RV if anything goes wrong in the 115-volt system.
  • a set of DC fuses or breakers to interrupt the DC power if anything goes wrong in the 12-volt system,
  • and also, in many 110-volt receptacles, mini-breakers called GFIs or GFCBs (Ground Fault Indicators or Ground Fault Circuit Breakers), which shut off power to appliances if a wire or circuit is creating a short.

1. Troubleshooting Fuses and Breakers

Troubleshooting often begins, and may well end, with resetting a breaker, replacing a fuse, or resetting a Ground Fault Indicator, and then seeing what happens. Older RVs tend to have fuses; newer ones, breakers.

The fuses and breakers were placed in the system for two major reasons:

  1. To protect the RV and you the owner from harm if an appliance or other electrical device or an electrical line fails and draws too much current.
  2. To protect your RV and its electrical appliances and other devices if you plug your RV into an electrical service that is not regulated properly and you get electrical voltages that are too low or too high for your RV and its equipment.

So a breaker or fuse going off is often a sign that something else is wrong: a symptom, not a cause of your problem. The problem may be easy to fix or it may not be. Many appliances have sensors on their mechanical parts that will kick a breaker or blow a fuse rather than allow the appliance to continue running in an unsafe mode.

Note that breakers can go bad themselves; if they trip too many times, they can suffer mechanical stress and lose their ability to stay closed at the current they were designed for.

Ground Fault Indicators

A GFI or Ground Fault Indicator (also called GFCB) is a receptacle with a RESET button on it. It is designed, like a regular circuit breaker, to "throw" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit. Additionally, a GFI will throw itself if even a small amount of current is detected between the "hot" lead and the ground lead of the circuit breaker. These specialty circuit breakers are required in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, places where the user of an appliance could possibly be physically touching ground through plumbing, metal, or flooring and using an appliance that is not insulated properly. They are life-savers.

If you find that several AC appliances at once stop working, or if AC appliances quit working but the air conditioner keeps going, suspect a Ground Fault Indicator. If the GFI detects a problem, the GFI-equipped receptacle will shut itself off, often along with several other "slave" receptacles. Push the RESET button and see if that fixes the problem; if not, disconnect all appliances and plug them back in one by one. The problem may be a single faulty appliance or something else entirely. It's possible (though not the most likely thing) that the GFI receptacle itself is bad and needs replacing.

Don't Upgrade Your Fuses

Don’t try to fix your problems by replacing your fuse or breaker with a higher-rated one. Your camper or RV was designed by professionals with your safety in mind, as well as your convenience. Each electrical device was installed on an electrical line that could safely handle the load.

Putting in a higher-rated fuse or breaker does not fix any problems. If you have a blown fuse, replace it with a fuse of the same rating, NEVER a higher-rated fuse. Because:

  1. You could cause an electrical fire and destroy your RV.
  2. You could permanently damage the equipment that is supplied by that fuse.

Always remember, the fuse was designed for a normal operational load. And if it blew, something has changed.

With these warnings in mind, below is a table of fuse colors and what ratings they indicate, in case you go shopping for replacement fuses.

Standard automotive fuses are color-coded according to their current rating; below is a short list for your reference.

ColorAmperage rating (amps)

black

1

gray

2

violet

3

pink

4

gold

5

brown

7.5

red

10

blue

15

yellow

20

clear

25

green

30

2. Troubleshooting 12-Volt System Problems

A bad connection in the 12-volt system can cause failures of various appliances, including slides and lights which run on 12-volt power. A 12-volt problem can cause failure of other appliances and systems if they have 12-volt power to their controls. The refrigerator and air conditioner, even running in propane-fueled mode or on AC power, require DC voltage for their logic circuits, and so may fail to operate when there is a DC system problem. Problems in the DC system can also cause lights or appliances to go on and off.

You can so some simple investigation of the 12-volt system yourself, for example:

  • Check whether the fuse or breaker is tripped or not.
  • Check whether the fuse is loose.
  • Check whether the connections to the fuse or breaker box are loose.
  • Check whether the connections to the DC batteries are loose (see initial photo).
  • Check whether the batteries have enough water. This is the most common easy-to-fix problem. When your battery is overworked or overheated the water tends to evaporate. Add distilled water only.
  • Check whether the batteries are charged enough. A multimeter (see below) should show the voltage between the battery terminals between 13.4 and 14.5 volts DC; if not, the battery may be worn out and need replacement, or it may be low on water, or the converter may not be giving it any power.
  • Check whether the connections to the converter are loose.
  • Check the fuse on the converter. The converter itself has a fuse or two, often on the front.

If you can find nothing wrong here, you may have a bad converter that needs to be replaced; this is a job for the service center.

Another article of mine has more information about troubleshooting and maintaining your RV's batteries.

Using a Multimeter

A multimeter can measure potential (DC volts, AC volts), electric current (amps), and resistance (ohms).

This device is very useful in the hands of a trained individual, but the novice should not attempt to use all of its functions until they understand what they are trying to measure as well as any dangers involved in making the measurements.

3. Troubleshooting Problems Coming From the Outside Power Supply

The power supply that your parked RV is plugged into can cause problems if it is supplying too much or too little power, fluctuates, is not grounded correctly, or its connector is corroded. Too much current can cause appliances or lights to fail or blow out, and even melt wires or plugs; too little (in an overpopulated campground with an overloaded supply, for example) can cause lamps to dim. Your campground management should be providing safe power at the level they advertise, whether 30 amps or 50 amps; that is their responsibility. You may ask management to investigate, or check with your campground neighbors to see what they are experiencing.

If half your appliances along with your air conditioner are out, one possibility is that half the AC supply from the campground is missing (another possibility is a GFI going off; see part 1 above).

Your on-board or portable generator can also be the cause of problems; it may stop running if your vehicle's gas tank is less than 1/4 full.

Most RVs have a master switch for disconnecting your RV's power during storage. It is a small switch, often near the door on the inside. It will need to be on for you to get power.

Surge Protector, Yes or No?

Everyone in campgrounds seems to be purchasing surge protectors these days. I don't have one. If you buy one, make sure you are purchasing a GOOD one.

Your RV already has surge protection devices: your main AC breaker plus the individual appliance and equipment breakers in your main breaker panel. Like surge protectors, they kick out if the input voltage goes too high.

The only real difference between breakers and a commercial "surge protection" device is that standard breakers are slow to react to voltage changes. A good surge protector should react faster than a breaker to voltage increases and kick out if the voltage exceeds the safe limit of your electrical equipment. Because low input voltages can also harm electrical devices or make them run erratically, most surge protectors will also turn the power off when the voltage is too low.

Now the problem with surge protection devices is that there are no real requirements or specifications for their design. You could purchase one that does not react fast enough to protect your RV equipment. Many of my fellow campers who had surge protectors experienced damage that "fried" their breakers without the surge protector helping at all.

Anyone who buys one of these devices should make sure they get one that has a relatively fast response time, though it's difficult for a camper to tell how fast one surge protector is relative to others.

4. Troubleshooting AC Current Draws

Once again, I recommend that you NOT mess with your RV's 115-volt power system unless you really know what you are doing.

But if your AC breakers or fuses are going off, you can certainly investigate whether your appliances, singly or in combination, are drawing more AC power than you want them to.

Remember that problems with your AC appliances may not come from your 115-volt system at all but from your 12-volt system, because the controls for your fridge and your air conditioner and heater—and other switches here and there—are likely 12-volt.

How Much Current Do Your Appliances Draw?

It's good to know which of your appliances use a lot of current, even when they are working properly. That way you can decide when and where to use your appliances so that the flow of electricity stays within the bounds your system can handle.

The table below lists the approximate MAXIMUM current drawn by common appliances in your RV. Most appliances draw a lot of current during a short period of intense use and less current at other times. These current figures are not exact and vary by manufacturer and model.

ApplianceCurrentNotes

Air conditioner (rated 13,500 to 15,000 Btu)

12-14 amps

Peak use when starting up

Air conditioner

5-8 amps

Normal rate after it gets going

Coffee pot (maximum use, while perking coffee)

8-10 amps

Once the coffee is brewed, the hot plate under the pot uses much less power, especially if you turn its temperature down.

Hair dryer

8-15 amps

Less powerful hair dryers might be better for RV use.

Crock pot

1-2 amps

Crock pots are useful for cooking in RVs.

Food processor

3-5 amps

 

Electric frying pan

7-11 amps

 

Hand vacuum (small)

2 amps

 

Iron

8-10 amps

 

Microwave oven

8-13 amps

 

TV (digital)

1.5 to 5

Depending on the size, the manufacturer, and the technology.

Water heater (in 120-volt AC mode)

11-13 amps

 

Estimating Maximum Current

If you are unsure what current an appliance draws, use this simple method to calculate the maximum current it will draw when working.

  1. Look for the appliance's power rating in watts. You may find it on a label on the appliance, or in the owner's manual, or you can contact the manufacturer or look online.
  2. Divide the number of watts by 120 (the AC voltage), and the result, in amps, is the maximum rating of the appliance for current.

Or you can measure the current an appliance uses with the simple tool below.

Useful Electrical Terms, Abbreviations, and Data

Here is a list of electrical terms and abbreviations, along with a list of color codes for resistors. This information should help the novice be more comfortable with what they are doing when an electrical problem does occur.

TermAbbreviationMeaningTips

Alternating current

AC

Alternating current reverses polarity and flows alternately in both directions in a circuit.

The voltage in your home is AC voltage, in the US typically 115V AC.

Ampere

Amp

The measure of electrical current

 

Capacitor

 

An electrical component that stores electrical energy, with a specific storage capacity

A capacitor often has a polarity and must be installed properly. The polarity is generally indicated by a stripe at one end of the part.

Circuit breaker

 

A device that opens up or "throws" itself to break a circuit when the current through it exceeds its designed limit. Unlike a fuse, a circuit breaker can be reset when it throws.

 

Direct current

DC

Direct current flows constantly in one direction, commonly from a positive lead to a negative lead.

 

Diode

 

An electrical component that allows current flow in one direction and impedes current flow in the opposite direction.

Current flows from the cathode to the anode. The cathode end is usually marked by a stripe.

Fuse

 

A device that is designed to destroy itself or "blow" when the current that passes through it exceeds its designed current limit.

A safety device used to protect electrical devices under adverse conditions. When replacing a fuse, always use one with the same current and voltage rating.

Ground Fault Circuit Breaker

GFCB

Like a regular circuit breaker, the GFCB "throws" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit.

 

Ground Fault Indicator

GFI

Same as above

 

Ohm

 

The measure of resistance to current flow.

The resistance can be calculated using the formula: R=V/I, or resistance equals voltage divided by current.

Watt

W

The measure of electrical power.

DC power can be calculated using the formula: W=V x I.

Wire gauge

 

The size of a wire chosen in designing electrical circuits, which determines the current it can handle with minimal resistance.

Standard wire sizes or gauges go from 0 to larger numbers. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire size.

One-Letter Electrical Abbreviations

LetterMeaning

F (upper case)

Farad, the measure of the value of a capacitor. For example, 1 uF means 1 micro-farad.

l (upper case)

Electrical current, measured in amperes. Current can be calculated using the formula I = V/R, that is, current equals voltage divided by resistance.

K (upper case)

One thousand. Example: 1 KW means one kilowatt, one thousand watts.

m (lower case)

One one-thousandth, 0.001. Example: 1 mW means one milliwatt, a thousandth of a watt.

M (upper case)

One million. Example: 1 MW means one megawatt, a million watts.

n (lower case)

One billionth, 0.000000001. Example: 1 nF means one nanofarad, a billionth of a farad.

p (lower case)

One trillionth, 0.000000000001. Example: 1 pF means one picofarad, a trillionth of a farad.

u (lower case)

One millionth, 0.000001. For example: 1 uF means one micro-farad, a millionth of a farad.

V (upper case)

Volt, the measure of electrical potential. Voltage can be calculated using the formula: V = I x R.

W (upper case)

Watt, the measure of electrical power.

Resistor Values and Colors

ColorValue

Black

1

Brown

2

Red

3

Orange

4

Yellow

5

Green

6

Blue

7

Violet

8

Gray

9

White

0

Gold (as the fourth band)

1% tolerance on the value

Silver (as the fourth band)

5% tolerance on the value

No color (as the fourth band)

10% tolerance on the value

Good Luck Now

The hundreds of comments below have explored just about everything that can go wrong with an RV's electrical system. Add your own questions and comments. But please, again, do not mess with any wiring unless you are sure of what you are doing. Electricity can kill.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Questions & Answers

Question: When I plug my 30 amp cord into an extension cord it sparks. The prongs on the travel trailer cord and the receptacle on the extension cord have become burned and melted. What could be causing my cord to spark and how could I fix it?

Answer: Your 30-AMP RV Power cord has a 4-wire connector. It provides 220-VAC which is split inside your RV to 2 110-VAC systems.

You should not use other extension cords to adapt your RV power cord. Instead always use an adapter designed especially for RV's.

As to your burned RV cord, and if the cord itself seems to be OK, you need to cut off the burned connector and get a new connector that you can wire to the remaining cord. But I personally would replace the Rv power cord and not take any chances.

You also need to make sure there was not any damage to your AC power panel or the breakers and wiring in the breaker panel.

Question: On a 2017 Keystone OutbackTravel Trailer 272UFL, where is the PowerCenter/Converter located?

Answer: Because of the heavy duty wires used between the Converter and your COACH battery, it will usually be placed relatively close to the battery(s). If nothing else, you should be able to trace the wires from the battery back to the Converter. It will often be in one of your storage cabinets near where your campers high current solenoids and relays are mounted.

Question: I have a 1984 Coachman camper (not a trailer) and the General Breaker keeps tripping after I turn on the power and the main breaker and nothing is plugged into the camper and this is the first time its done this. What should I do to resolve my camper's power issues?

Answer: I assume you are in a campsite and your motorhome is plugged into a standard campsite power box? And I assume you are using a Standard RV power cable for connection between your RV and the campsite power box.

If this is so, and you have "nothing" plugged into any of your AC-Voltage receptacles, and your Air Conditioner is OFF, as well as your TV, Fridge, and microwave, then the only thing left is your CONVERTER. Your Converter keeps your COACH battery charged, so unplug it to see if the problem goes away.

Whatever is causing your MAIN breaker to trip is drawing a lot of current and I would look for a "Short" in the wiring to GROUND first.

Question: There is no power to the thermostat. The remote wire from the power source, 12V, is there. What is the root of the power wire? Does it go straight from the 12V to the thermostat or does it go to the AC first?

Answer: First make sure that when you measure the 12-VDC, you also have the other lead on a good solid ground, preferably the metal chassis.

If there is still NO VOLTAGE on the 12-VDC wire, then go to your 12-VDC Fuse panel for the RV internal systems and make sure you do not have a blown fuse. If there is NO 12-VDC into the Fuse panel then check your COACH battery and check for 12-VDC across the terminals of the battery.

Remember that the 12-VDC from those batteries power your temperature control panel, your Fridge control panel, your gas alarms, and your interior lights.

Question: I have a 2016 Passport Lite and I am having an issue with the electrical outlets. I know that the GFCI is good and I have checked all of the circuit breakers and replaced the fuses. But, I am still having the same issue. When I put a load (Not a Max Load) on the outlets they work fine and then they shut off without tripping the circuit breaker. After about 20-30 minutes the power restores itself. Any ideas?

Answer: Mark - First of all, check your COACH battery and make sure it has water in it and that it is fully charged. The Coach batteries provide power to your Power Control panel, and if the battery is low enough this panel will not operate properly.

If the battery is fully charged, then you need to make sure your receptacles that are without power are not on your GFCI circuit.

Then You should check your campsite power source and make sure it is working properly and can handle the load you are applying.on it.

A failing 110-VAC source must be caused by one of these situations.

Question: Yesterday all of my 110 volt Outlets went dead. I only had one GFCI breaker and I replaced it with a regular breaker. All the breakers test good. Both air conditioners are working. None of the breakers in the secondary breaker box have any power to them. But, all the breakers in the main box have 110 volts. What can I check next?

Answer: First of all, you should not replace a GFCI Master Receptacle with a standard one. It senses low current leakage between the COMMON and the GROUND wires of the SLAVE GFCI receptacles.

These GFCI receptacles are placed in areas such as the Kitchen and bathrooms for a purpose. If by chance you were to get wet or touch a metal appliance that has a wiring problem they will sense the current and could save your life.

If both AC units are functioning then you have your 220-VAC and your symptoms point to your possibly having wired something improperly.

So in summary; first put the appropriate GFCI Master receptacle in your RV. Second, I assume you mean tht your breakers in your MAIN breaker box have voltage on their OUTPUT LINES?

Third, when you say your secondary breaker box has NO power to all of the breakers in it, then in a standard wiring situation the input wires to this secondary breaker box should be fed by your MAIN should be wired to your MAIN breaker in your MAIN breaker box the same as the ones in the MAIN breaker box.

So, try to trace that wire back to your MAIN box.

I must say at this point that the wiring in an RV does not change unless someone did it, just like I assume your RV did operate properly before your problem. With this said, double check any wiring changes you might have made.

Question: I have a 2014 jay I Greyhawk. Can you give me any advice on how to fix the running lights and the backup lights?

Answer: First of all, your Jayco running lights and backup lights operate on your engine battery.

As with regular automobiles, your running lights are controlled (ON/OFF) by your dash light switch, and your backup lights are controlled by a switch on your shift lever.

BUT, I would suspect you have a couple of blown fuses.

Somewhere, under your hood or possibly under your dash there is a fuse panel that has fuses for both of these functions, so find that fuse panel and check that all of the fuses are good.

If you do have blown fuses, replace them; but your concern should then be what caused them to blow? You should check the voltage on the CHASSIS (engine) battery to make sure your alternator is working properly.

Question: I plugged my golf cart into my outside cargo outlet I blew a fuse. Where should I look?

Answer: Sorry, but be aware that those exterior and most other receptacles on your RV are NOT designed for such a load as a Golf Cart.

Now, Your Rv has a GFCI circuit which consists of; a MASTER GFCI receptacle, normally located in the bathroom or Kitchen. This receptacle controls the AC to several other SLAVE GFCI receptacles located on the exterior of the Rv and in areas like the kitchen and Bathroom (where a user might get an electrical shock).

You should be able to reset the Master GFCI receptacle and then you would have power to your other receptacles.

As to your TV's, they usually get their power from your Inverter which is, in turn, powered by your 110-VAC. I would make sure that all of the breakers in the AC Voltage Breaker panel are reset.

Question: I have a 2016 Forest River HW277 popup Camper that I just bought. The LED ceiling lights work until I turn on the AC unit on with the compressor then it blows the fuse. If I replace the fuse, I only turn on the AC unit to Fan so that it doesn't blow the fuse. I do not see where the wires between the 12V and 110V meet as the cable for the AC unit has a plug on the outside and I can see where they both come in and they are separated by 10". Any thought to where I should look?

Answer: First of all, your camper should have only ONE AC-Voltage input connector which would power everything that runs on AC-Voltage.

If your camper has two AC-Voltage input connectors then it's wiring has been modified, which leaves me without any idea what your problem might be.

I can say that with a standard wiring in your camper, your system would have been designed to handle the load of your AC unit as well as your other appliances. And, in addition, your interior lights, your alarms, and some other accessories would be powered by your COACH battery and the battery would be kept charged by your built-in Converter which itself runs on 110-VAC.

I would need more information on your camper to make any further assumptions.

Question: I'm storing our 30AMP RV to 120V storage facility outlet via a 15 AMP adapter. The breakers keep tripping. Shore power source confirms 120V. I flipped the 30AMP rig breaker off, then back on and it seemed to resolve the breaker popping issue. However, the inside voltmeter still descends back to ~102V and I am concerned. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: The first thing I would do is check the storage facility power and make sure it truly is 120-VAC; because your symptoms suggest that your storage facility power is your problem. This voltage should not drop when a load is applied. And, I do suggest that you use a standard RV adapter to connect from your RV power cord to your storage facility power source. Remember, that 30-AMP cable is wired for 220-VAC, and your adapter must be designed to connect only one half of this to your source.

Question: I have a 2008 Fleetwood Niagara, we had the AC on and other appliances running at the same including the microwave. The microwave was running for about 5min when it suddenly turned completely off. Everything else kept running fine. The fuse is not blown but there is not current in the outlet where the microwave was connected and the outlet is not a GFI outlet. Any comments on what you think is wrong with the outlet?

Answer: If you operate too many appliances and equipment your power control panel will start turning OFF power to certain things. You should have a row of LEDs on your power control panel which should show which ones have power allocated to them. This is a protection system to avoid your overloading your external power source.

Turn OFF some of your equipment and wait for the power to be re-allocated.

Question: I have a 2008 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailer that was plugged into a 220 outlet. None of the breakers blew, but now the AC and the furnace will not come on and the microwave is burned up. No fuses were tripped. Does this mean the electrical units themselves are burned up?

Answer: Considering your symptoms, please note that your Microwave operates on 110-VAC and the fact that you say it is "burned up?" implies that you had a serious power surge on your external lines. Normally your AC Power Panel breakers should have kicked, but often, with a momentary very high voltage surge they can be too slow reacting and you can have damage to your appliances.

You should first turn OFF all of your RV breakers and then check your 220-VAC outlet you are plugged into and make sure it is wired properly, and that you have the appropriate voltage on the input to your breaker panel as well as make sure the GROUND and COMMON wires at the outlet are wired properly.

Once you confirm the wiring is proper, I suggest that you get a good SURGE PROTECTOR and put it in series with your RV power cable.

Then you should turn your breakers ON, one by one and check what in your RV might work and what might be damaged. Make sure you check your CONVERTER and make sure it is charging your COACH battery and thus have 12-VDC going to all of your control panels especially the temperature control panel before you check out your Air Conditioner units.

Question: The power went out on one side of the RV. The side that went out charges the batteries and now we can't start the rig. Upon checking the breakers on one circuit, the breaker has a red tab and a blue tab. What can I do to get this thing started?

Answer: Actually, in a motorhome, your engine has its own battery, and if it will not start, then the problem is with it, most likely.

You also have a switch (button) on the dash somewhere, that's usually labeled "AUX," and if you hold it down, then it connects your COACH battery to your engine battery so you can use its power to start your engine.

BUT! If you also have power loss to one side of your COACH, you also have another problem.

SO, you should check a few things to get your Rig started;

1- Is your Transmission in PARK?

2- Are your DC CUT-OFF Switches in the proper position?

3- Did you realize your exterior door light, your power awning, and your power steps operate on your Engine battery?

4- Also, check that your campsite power is ON (reset breaker), and then reset all of your RV breakers.

5- If you have 220-VAC inside your RV then check that your CONVERTER is operating and charging your COACH battery.

Question: We just got a 2004 Georgetown Class a and the lights in the living area slide don't work, what are the steps we should perform to troubleshoot the problem?

Answer: First of all, remember that all of your interior lights operate on your 12-VDC electric system which is powered by your COACH batteries.

So, If this RV is new to you I would suggest that you replace the old batteries with brand new deep discharge batteries so that you will then be confident in them for the next few years.

And if this doesn't fix your light problem then next you should check the 12-VDC FUSE Box, for a blown fuse. This fuse box is not the same as the 12-Volt system under the hood which is for the engine. It can be located anywhere in the interior of the RV, under the dash, along the wall in a closet, anywhere. It should use automotive fuses.

If all of these things are OK, then get a multimeter and check the voltage across the battery terminals. It should be around 13.5-VDC (charged) to 14,5-VDC(charging). Any reading below this means your Converter is not charging the batteries.

One of these actions should find your problem because all of the lights are factory wired and should not be broken.

Question: The controls for the stabilizer jacks are beeping along with flashing lights on the controls, How do I get the beeping to stop?

Answer: This is usually the alarm that your motorhome is in gear and not in park. You should not be operating your Jacks with the RV in gear.

If they are still beeping and flashing, then you should put the RV in Park, activate the emergency brake and turn the engine OFF for a couple of minutes before you restart your RV.

Question: Using 12v system, ceiling lights work, but recepticles will not. What is problem?

Answer: You are not providing very much information but let me try to help you.

If you're talking about a standard motorhome or camper trailer then they have a COACH battery. It is designed to provide 12-VDC to such things in the interior as; lights, your 2-way Fridge control circuit board, your temperature control panel, your CO and Fire alarms and such.

Your receptacles are powered by your external AC Power Connector which you will have plugged into your campsite power panel.

With that said, check if the receptacles you are mentioning are part of your GFCI circuit. IF they are then you can just reset the button on the MASTER GFCI receptacle which is usually located inside your bathroom or kitchen area.

If ALL of your receptacles are not working then you need to make sure you do not have a breaker kicked out in your AC_Voltge breaker panel.

Question: How can I make my rv LED lights work when using my generator or shore power?

Answer: Your RV uses the COACH battery for a number of electrical items, including your interior lights.

Your COACH battery must be kept fully charged for these items to work properly. Regardless of whether you are using external AC Power or your built-in generator, the battery is kept charged by your CONVERTER which in turns uses your 110-VAC.

As to using LED interior lights, if you purchased the proper LED replacement lamps that are marked with the same lamp number on them then they should operate properly, But, there is one thing about LED lamps; they are either ON or OFF. They do not operate but seem dim on a low voltage, like incandescent lamps do.

From your symptoms, I would suspect your COACH battery.

Question: Why does my tv lift only receive 9.6 volts? I have a new battery and convertor.

Answer: If you only have 9.6-VDC at your TV lift, measured from the hot wire to chassis ground, then you should check the output side of your DC fuse in the fuse panel. If it reads only 9.6-VDC, then it must read the same on all of the fuses, and your COACH battery is not charged.

If you read around 13.5-VDC on the fuses and only 9/6-VDC on the TV lift then your wiring to the device should be checked for a loose connection or a frayed wire.

Question: I have a 2002 Holiday Rambler that lost power to the water heater, washer/dryer, and both AC units. This happened after I disconnected one house battery to check the water level. Do you have any thoughts?

Answer: In case you forgot your 12-VDC powers the temperature control panel which is probably the problem with your AC units. And if your house (coach) batteries are 6-volt and not 12-volt, then you would not have 12-VDC. The water heater runs on 12-VDC, and your washer/dryer runs on 110-VAC, so I can't explain why it doesn't run.

I would first work on getting my 12-VDC system and batteries hooked up properly and the battery converter combination charging the batteries properly. Then I would see what else might not be working.

Question: When we installed new house batteries it seems as if they are not charging when we are plugged in the campsite pole. What did my husband miss in the replacement install?

Answer: Just as an FYI - You can always take your multimeter and measure across the terminals of your House battery and measure the voltage to check its state of charge. If you read around 14,5-VDC the battery is being charged; if it reads around 13.5-VDc then the battery is fully charged, and if you read around 12.5-VDC then the battery is discharged.

And normally, if your disconnected battery reads around 12.5-VDC and then reads around 14.5-VDC when everything is connected then this means your Converter, which operates on 110-VAC is not charging the battery. If this is the case make sure the Converter is operating by checking its indicator lights if nothing else.

Question: Our outside TV won't power on. It worked when we left our RV three hours ago. We are on 30amp. The three other TV's work inside. Do you have any suggestions?

Answer: Typically, outside 110-VAC power receptacles are wired to your GFCI circuit. So, the first thing I would do is check your inside Master GFCI receptacle and see if it needs to be reset.

If it isn't on a GFCI circuit, then check your AC Breaker panel for a breaker that has "kicked OFF."

Question: I have a 2019 discovery...we are getting a shock when touching coach and wet ground outside the coach...what could be the problem?

Answer: It sounds like you have a bad GROUND CONNECTION. You need to check that your campsite powerbox is not damaged. Then you need to check your external camper power cable connections to the campsite power box and make sure the pins are not oxidized and are making good connections. Then do the same for the other end of your external power cable and make sure its connector pins are in good condition and they plug firmly into your RVs external connector.

These are your most likely causes for your problem which is the fact that you have a missing or poorly wired ground connection to your RV.

And actually, I would ask the campground office to send someone down to check that their campsite power box doesn't have a wiring problem.

Question: I’m having trouble with my 2008 Jayco Flight 20 footers AC. The thermostat doesnt get power(or at least barley measurable) but I have power to the control box from the 110v. I’ve tried disconnecting power and run off battery and the lights work but fridge switched to gas and outlets don’t work. Maybe the converter is going or is bad?

Answer: There are several things you need to understand about your trailer's power systems.

1- Your camper's lights, alarms, temperature control panel, and other accessories run on your 12-VDC from your camper battery which is kept charged by your external campsite 110-VAC power to your Converter.

2- Your fridge relies on gas or 12-VDC to operate but the icemaker runs on 110VAC.

3- Your 110-VAC outlets operate on your external campsite power. And you have several receptacles that are on a GFCI circuit that can kick out at times.

SO, If you want everything to work you need to have that 110-VAC campsite power hooked up.

And, you need to check your camper's battery; 1- does it have water in it, and 2- is it charged up?

Your Air Conditioner does run on 110-VAC, but if the temperature control panel doesn't have adequate 12-VDC to it, it will not allow the AIR to run.

Start with understanding these things, and you can get your camper accessories operating properly.

Question: I can hear a buzzing noise coming from one of the circuit breakers, but everything is working. Should I be concerned?

Answer: You should check more closely and determine what might be making the sound you mention, because Circuit Breakers do not vibrate or make any noise of any kind, ever.

Question: We RV full-time. We had a wire burn. How do we find a certified electrician who will come to us?

Answer: The largest certification org. for trained RV technicians that I would recommend is RVDA-RVIA. You can find them on the web and they will be able to inform you of the nearest certified tech.

Question: on a recent trip, we stayed in a campground with full connections for our travel trailer. the first day there, the power converter blew up. (I am a master electrician) So I replaced the power converter and battery, confirmed that I had 12 VDC going to the battery to charge it. However, within a day the battery was completely dead again even while plugged into 120 Vac. Where should I look next?

Answer: The first thing I would do is make sure I have a charging voltage on the battery of 13.5-VDC or higher across the battery terminals. If this is so, then I would next suspect that some 12-VDC appliance (possibly your Inverter?) is drawing excessive current that the Converter cannot handle.

These are the most likely causes of your problem, and I recommend that you purchase a good Surge Protector to put in series with your campsite power and your trailer to avoid future damage from poorly run campground power systems.

Question: I have a new RV that blows the 30-Amp fuse in the front of the unit when I plug or unplug to the land power. On a five-week vacation, I had to replace it fourteen times. The RV repair from the dealership is to wire in a 30-Amp resettable fuse screwed to the frame. This does not seem right to me. I believe there is a problem with the wiring. Is there a staple or screw that may have been put through the wiring?

Answer: If your NEW RV has a 30-Amp service, then I assume it is a small travel trailer because most RV's now have a 50-AMp service.

The manufacturer did not do you any favors using a fuse for your input service because it will do just what you are experiencing, blow the fuse.

So, what is happening to you is that you are drawing too much current overall, and you need to learn how to manage your power usage. You see, some of your RV appliances, like your AC can draw a surge current that if you are near your 30-Amp limit, might blow your input fuse.

The good thing is that your dealer did put a BREAKER in the circuit so that it can be reset, rather than you having to replace a fuse.

The bad thing is that you really need to figure out what you are using in your Rv that is using so much current. I have written a Hub that lists the typical current drawn by most common RV appliances, and sometimes, you just have to turn OFF one appliance while you use another high current one.

Question: I have a 1999 Safari Zanzibar, and I keep tripping a breaker every time I put it on the shore power. It trips the circuit within seconds. I can only run it off of our house batteries. What do you think this is?

Answer: First of all, unplug everything in your RV and try to plug in the shore power. If it still kicks the shore power breaker, then you most likely have a GROUND problem. One thing though; how are your batteries getting charged with your shore power doesn't work? The RV's Converter (Charger) keeps your batteries charged. And it runs on 10-VAC from shore power.

Question: My parents have a section of low voltage lighting in their camper that would pulse. I thought it was a bad switch, so I replaced it to no avail. I have 12v at the switch until the new switch is hooked up, until then will I have no voltage present?

Answer: You will not measure voltage across an electrical switch when it is closed. As to your light pulsing problem this often happens when your Coach batteries are not charging properly and the Converter (Charger) is cycling ON and OFF to maintain the 12-VDC for the internal RV lights and other equipment.

Question: I have a 2007 Forest River Georgetown XL that disconnects the batteries via the battery disconnect switch by itself when I attempt to start the onboard ONAN 5500 Generator. The generator does not start (When I jump the generator via a battery right at the generator +/- posts, it starts). After the disconnect switch trips, it will not connect when I toggle it up. After about 10 minutes, something in the BBC resets, and I can toggle to disconnect switch up and connect the batteries to the coach?

Answer: Your explanation is a little confusing. But, first of all, Your two battery disconnect switches are for your COACH battery and your Engine battery when you are storing your RV, so the batteries do not get drained over time.

Your Power Control Panel utilizes your COACH 12-VDC battery to operate, and it senses whether there is SHORE power. If so, when you start your generator, this panel will control some solenoids that make sure that you never have both Shore power and Generator power at the same time. My best guess is that your COACH battery is NOT fully charged, or may not be getting charged. You should make sure that this battery and charging system is operating properly first of all.

Question: I have a 1995 Winnebago Vectra that the 12-volt lights work when the motorhome is plugged in or the engine is running but they don't work when everything is off. The batteries have 12.6 volts when tested. Why won't the 12 volts light and where do I start to check for the problem?

Answer: The COACH battery(s) provide the 12-VDC System inside your RV. They power your interior lights, fridge control circuit board, your Alarms, your temperature control circuit board and other things.

The battery is kept charged by the built-in Converter(charger) that operates on 110-VAC (external power) and when the voltage is actually at 12.5 VDC or lower the battery is NOT charged. You should measure around 14.5 VDC or so, if the charger is running and around 13.5 VDC if it is charged.

You should check that the battery is being charged first, then if it is but the voltage is LOW as I mentioned, check the battery for water and check the date on it. It could just be ready for replacement.

PS. - The engine running should have nothing to do with your interior lights operation or the charging of your COACH battery.

Question: My new battery charges back up, but I don’t get any voltage measuring from the thermostat negative to trailer negative so no ground problems. I can jump the thermostat DC in to the cooling wire and I hear the relay click, same with the fan. The Cooling and or Fan do not turn on, but if I jump the 110v at the control box the fan and cooling turns on. What could be wrong?

Answer: Being remote from your RV, I am honestly stumped. I recommend that you contact the AC manufacturer's customer service people, or call in a local certified RV technician to go over your problem.

Question: My compressor for the AC buzzes like it’s trying to start and then shuts off after 5-10 secs. The AC thermostat is new, all capacitors are new. The compressor gets burning hot to the touch. The drain for the condensation is not clogged. All the coils and fins are clean. Could it be the compressor? Basically a whole new unit?

Answer: From your symptoms, I would sit down, have a cold drink, gird myself and call the local RV AC service tech with the assumption that at least the Condensor is bad.

Sorry, but they can lock up like you describe.

Question: How do I figure out a bad breaker or switch? I have a KZ hybrid, and the awning buttons on the awning arm work fine but the switches inside are not working. The only thing that works is the one that brings the awning in.

Answer: Because your exterior control switches work fine, that would imply that the inside ones would also, because they would normally be wired in parallel. The awning motor works on your 12-VDC 12-VDC battery in your RV. Because of these symptoms, I would not sspect a breaker, but rather the interior awning swithc that doesn't function properly.

Question: We have a 1990 Itasca, and the circuit breaker for the AC unit keeps tripping on especially hot days. We replaced the circuit breaker, and now nothing will work. We even tried putting the old one back in and still nothing. We're pretty sure it's the same amperage. Any suggestions on what could be going on?

Answer: As AC units age, they draw more current each time the compressor tries to start up. They can draw as much as 3-5 Amps each.

As to your breaker, if it is the right replacement then you should first call the campground office and have them send someone to check out your campsite power box as the breakers on it could be kicked. Do this before you do anything else inside your RV.

Question: The galley, bathroom, and left exterior light on my lance lite 835 camper are not working. The GFCI in the kitchen has no power going to it. We have checked the fuses and the breakers and the power converter. We are currently checking the switches themselves. Do you have any ideas what the problem may be?

Answer: As I understand it, your Exterior lights on the left side are not working? Well, these lights are powered by your engine battery just as your other exterior lights are.

Your gallery, bathroom and GFCI circuits are all powered by your AUX or House battery which is kept charged by your Converter when your camper is plugged into the campsite power.

So, check that your AUX battery is fully charged.

Next, check the MASTER GFCI and see if it needs to be reset because this GFCI provides power to your other Slave GFCI receptacles.

Question: What is the problem if I have no power to my 110-VAC outlets?

Answer: Some of your 110-VAC outlets are on your GFCI circuit, and you should check your Master GFCI for a RESET switch.

This is one of the more common causes of this problem.

Question: My A/C is coming on every 10 to 15 minutes, and everything is shut right; no air pockets anywhere. Why is it coming on so often? I have it set on auto and cool, and at 79, but it's so cold in my RV.

Answer: The first thing you should do is check your walls and find the sensor for your temperature control panel. It will usually be either near your control panel, if it is centrally located or it will be near the center of the RV at chest high. This sensor must be open, and airflow is going by it must be unencumbered. Some people I have met put a small fan in their RV so that there will be decent air flow.

Next, I don't know how old your Rv is, but all Air Conditioners can only put out so much cool air, and it cycles when the temperature at the sensor says it has dropped below the limit you have set.

It serves no purpose for an owner to set a temperature limit that makes your AC run continually. By running all of the time, your AC is telling you its limited capability. So, you should set the temperature control to a temperature where your AC only cycles once aver half an hour or so. This is a point where it can cool and not use so much electricity and not end up freezing up.

I suspect that your temperature sensor is blocked so check that first, and then see of the unit is frozen and then set the thermostat to a realistic setting for your AC to achieve.

Question: I have a 2017 Jayco pull-behind, and we had to have the water heater replaced a year ago. It is now throwing the 2-Amp fuse. Do we need to return to mfg?

Answer: I'm surprised that a water heater has a fuse value of only 2-Amp. I think that is wrong and you should check your JAYCO customer service and see what the actual value should be.An RV water heater is a "fast heating" appliance and i think the fuse should be significantly higher than just 2-Amps.

Question: I have a 1995 Europa MH with a new converter. Just came out of the RV service center (power window and generator). After parking, shutting off the headlights, hooking up shore power I noticed that the rear lights remained on. I rechecked- lights off, power on, battery lights indicating charging on Friday night and every place is closed. I disconnected the lights, each side and the middle. Is there any novice troubleshooting for my Europa MH's electrical problems? I checked the breakers and fuses- all seemed to be working.

Answer: First symptom; "battery lights indicating charging" - Your battery lights should indicate "charging" whenever you have 110-VAC either from your shore power or your generator. Second symptom; "rear lights on after engine and lights switch OFF. - Your 110-VAC power sources, neither shore power nor gen power are connected to your vehicle lights. So, if any of your "vehicle lights" stay on and your vehicle light switch is OFF then you are dealing with something in your vehicle's standard wiring system.

You have a fuse panel under the hood that manages the power to all of your "vehicle", not your "Camper" electrical equipment. You could just pull the fuse for the running lights until you are next ready to pull out.

Question: The GFCI in my RV bathroom tripped. It would not reset. I checked the breakers and none had tripped. However, when I flip the double 15 amp breaker off the GFCI stays reset. Is this a converter problem. Would low water level in the batteries cause the GFCI in my RV's bathroom to trip? I double checked the line and load wires on the GFCI to make sure I connected them correctly and also made sure the ground wire was connected. I'm at my wit's end here and no children that are mechanically or electrically savvy.

Answer: Your GFCI with the reset is the MASTER unit and it has several other receptacles that are SLAVE to the MASTER.

SO, unplug everything plugged into these other receptacles to make sure there is NO load before you try to reset the MASTER GFCI.

Your GFCI is only 110-VAC so your batteries have nothing to do with the operation of the GFCI.

Also, the Ground wire absolutely MUST be connected PROPERLY to your GFCI receptacle for it to operate the way it is designed.

Check those other receptacles for equipment that you must unplug first of all though.

Question: The air conditioner in my RV doesn’t work well. My toaster won’t brown the toast, even after seven minutes, and my microwave takes four mins to heat a small coffee. I’m sure the campground circuit is overloaded as I’m not getting the full 30 amps. Everyone in the campground is having the same issues. Is this low amperage damaging my camper?

Answer: If you're not getting 110-VAC to your RV, and when you operate an appliance it loads down the voltage, then you could be damaging your appliances or other electrical equipment.

The campground must provide adequate power to everyone's campsite, or they should tell their campers that they need to leave because their power source is dangerously low.

This is a problem for the campground, and if they don't accept responsibility for any damages, then I wouldn't go there again.

Question: My RV was plugged in, and everything was working, but now the fridge and A/C are not getting electric. I checked all breakers and fuses already. What could it be?

Answer: If your Fridge is a 2-way, then it and your temperature control panel use 12-VDC. So, check your coach battery and make sure it has water in it, and that it is fully charged.

If not, then these appliances will not operate properly.

Question: We have a 2009 Newmar Ventana and nowhere can we find a wiring schematic. The bedroom slide has 3 outlets, 2 on side walls, and 1 under the bed to power an air mattress. All three outlets are dead. I have checked breakers & gfi. How can I further troubleshoot my RV's electrical problem?

Answer: The first thing for you to do is to check if your Power Control panel is displaying that you have 50-Amps service and that all of the green lights are on indicating that your 220-VAC is allocated to everything.

Also, I am assuming that you have no AC power to anything else either.

Question: We purchased a one yr old Mercedes motorhome with 6000 miles on it from an RV dealer. We are on our first trip to Yellowstone from WV and fridge quit. We had it plugged in at home, and the fridge was extremely cold. While driving, it showed it was running on gas, and the light was not flashing, so we assumed it was ok. When we stopped to eat, the temperature inside the fridge was 60. It works when plugged into electric. Any idea of what we can try? It is evening now, and nowhere is open.

Answer: When you are traveling and are not plugged into 110-VAC, your 2-way Fridge will operate on propane, but it must have 12-VDC from your COACH battery, which is charged only when you are plugged into 110-VAC.

So, you should check that COACH battery for adequate water level, and always keep your RV plugged into 110-VAC when you are parked at a campsite. This way the COACH battery will have a full charge and easily keep your Fridge and other 12-VDC accessories running for a full day and night.

I believe this will take care of your problem. When you are traveling, so keep that COACH battery charged before you take off.

Question: The fridge and A/C in my camper work fine, but not my interior or exterior lights. What could cause that?

Answer: Not very much data to react to, here. IF your RV is a motorhome, your exterior lights operate on your engine battery. But if your Rv is a trailer, they operate on your Coach battery.

So, as you probably know, your interior lights operate on your COACH battery voltage, the same as with your temperature control panel and your Fridge control panel.

First, I would check if my battery(s) is charged and your Converter is operating properly.

If they are OK, then you should check your DC Fuse Panel for a blown fuse.

Question: I have a 1999 dutchman camper pull behind. When I plug my 12-volt battery up, the 4 running lights light up, but the one on the back stays off. I know these should only be on when hooked to your vehicle and the parking lights are on. Do you have any ideas on this problem?

Answer: As you probably know, your Dutchman camper battery is only for powering your camper's interior 12-VDC systems and appliances, and should not be wired to your camper's running lights.

Being this old, You should check the following potential problems;

1- The GROUND wire for your battery and the GROUND wire from your tow connector should both be firmly connected to your camper's chassis, and the connections should not be rusty or loose.

2- the HOT wire for your running lights of your camper should be wired to the connections shown on a standard wiring chart for the specific type of connector you are using (4-wire, 5-wire, or 6-wire). Check this article for the proper connector wiring;https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Towing-and-Electrica...

Question: As we are driving we have lost all electrical power to all of our lights and gauges. What fuse or relay could be dead?

Answer: Your problem will be in your Chassis electrical system and not your Coach electrical system.

Depending on your RV manufacturer you will have a fuse panel under the dash probably on one of the fenders for easy access. And with some, there will be another fuse panel under the dash.

Question: I have a 2006 Georgie Boy class A. We camped this weekend with no problems. When we pulled out, I heard an alarm after unplugging. I noticed that the radio wouldn't turn on. Then I saw that the fridge was off, I checked my status panel, water pump, and water heater. All were without power. I fired up the onboard generator, and still no power. Once I got home, I plugged into my 50 amp service, and everything came on fine. Any idea what this could be?

Answer: The RV radio should operate on your engine battery and has nothing to do with the COACH 12-VDC system.

The Water Heater runs on either propane or 110-VAC, and you should have switched over to propane when you unplugged.

The fridge's control circuit board, your water pump, your AC Power Control Panel and your interior lights run on your 12-VDC COACH battery.

As to your generator, when you started it, the power control panel (which operate on your COACh battery.

So, I would get that battery checked for water, and that it takes charge, so that all of those things I mentioned can work properly.

Question: I have lost power to lighting and air in my RV. I have checked everything, but I haven't found anything. The outlets work, though. What should I check now?

Answer: Your symptoms make me think that your 12-VDC battery(s) are not properly charged. In an RV, the interior lights, the temperature control panel, the 2-way fridge control panel, and your alarms all run on your 12-VDC Coach battery. This battery must be kept charged for this equipment to operate properly.

I recommend that you ask yourself:

1- Does your battery have water in it?

2- With a multimeter, can you measure at least 13-5 VDC across the Coach battery?

These are the most probable causes of your problems. Check these before getting into anything else.

Comments

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on September 03, 2020:

Spec - I'm sorry but your information is too sparse for me to understand your problem totally.

I can only guess that you might have a major wiring error, but that's all I can say.

Sorry,

DON

Spec on September 01, 2020:

Off I turn on my ac everything works lights, fridge,outlets, but when I shut it off everything goes out !! HELP ?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 28, 2020:

James - All of your overhead and exterior running lights are wired to the same fuse, but if your problem iw only with the 3 on the top-front, then this would indicate that particular string of lights has a bad connection to your fuse panel.

Try to trace the wiring from the fuse panel that goes to these 3 particular lights.

Good Luck,

DON

James on August 28, 2020:

My 3 over head lights stopped working all other plugs lights etc still work fuse is good.?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 24, 2020:

Sabrina - Because of the popping sound, you may have a breaker that has kicked off, so I would recommend that you reset all of your breakers. You can also check if your Furnace is getting power, it runs on your propane and is controlled by your 12-VDC from your AUX battery.

As to your Microwave clock? Well, the Microwave operates on your 110-VAC and the clock is internal to the microwave so if the microwave operates, then so should your clock.

Have a Nice Day,

DON

Sabrina on August 23, 2020:

I have a 1995 coachmen Catalina camper and when I plugged it in it made a loud pop so quickly unplugged it and then plugged it in to the right plug in and all power came on and is working but my air conditioner heater and the clock on the microwave isn't working what could be the problem

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 23, 2020:

Amanda - I think you are saying you have a fish tank in your Rv that you have plugged into breakers in the building next store?

So, I don't understand why you are doing this???? Your tank uses a pump or two but they don't pull very much current, so why aren't your tank pumps plugged into your regular receptacles in your Fiver? Or are you saying your Fiver is plugged into 30-Amp breakers in the building next door? Not enough information, I'm afraid.

Good Luck,

DON

Amanda on August 23, 2020:

Hi I have put a 33 gallon fish tank in my fifth I am hooked up to 30 amp breakers are not going in my fifth but in the breaker box in the building next door all hooked up to the same power source could u help me please.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 18, 2020:

Dan - From your symptoms, I would guess that the switch itself has loose wires attached to it, or the switch itself is bad and needs to be replaced.

Have a great Day,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 18, 2020:

Lisa - From your symptoms, I would say that your service is not your problem.

You see, a GFCI circuit operates by detecting very small current leaks between the Common wire and the Ground wire in your Rv. It is actually doing its job by indicating that you have such a current leakage with these two appliances.

One thing I can recommend is to change the GFCI master receptacle in the hopes that yours is bad. The Master GFCI receptacle is the one with the "test and reset" buttons.

Hopefully this will fix your problem for you, otherwise you will need to check if your other appliances plugged into your GFCI receptacles also kick the Master GFCI out.

Good Luck,

DON

Dan on August 17, 2020:

I have a 2008 four winds 26bdsl. I purchased the camper 2 years ago and the outside light and the light inside the door and over the sink never worked but the previous owner said he never had this issue. This past weekend, all 3 lights started working and now they have stopped again. No fuses are blown nor are any breakers. These lights do have an on/off switch and last weekend when they were working, the switches would turn them on and off. Any ideas?

Lisa on August 17, 2020:

Hello I have 2006 canyon creek 5th wheel. We just got this trailer. We previously had a 35ft Motorhome and were plugged into same outlet and had no issues.

We are plugged in to a 20 amp and when we try and use microwave of a small keurig coffee maker it pops the gfi.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 17, 2020:

Moses - If you are pulling a standard load on your power source then there should not be any buzzing sounds from the breakers. Try to turn OFF all of the electrical equipment in your RV that is powered by that particular breaker to see of it is overloaded. If the buzzing goes away after you do this, then you can turn your electrical equipment back on, one at a time, to see which is overloading your breaker circuit.

Good Luck,

DON

Moses Martinez on August 16, 2020:

when i switch the breakers to the on position one of them make a buzzing noise i replaced it and the buzzing still continues is this normal

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 15, 2020:

Keith - I'm sorry, but most RV manufacturers do not share their wiring diagrams with anyone outside of their manufacturing sites. They do not even share them with approved service centers.

I'm afraid, you are in the position of having to figure the wiring our on your own.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 15, 2020:

Chris - First of all, the engine battery going bad should have nothing to do with your electrical problem inside your RV.

You have another battery(s) inside your Rv that is referred to as the COACH (or AUX) battery and it is kept charged by our Converter which in turn is powered by your 110-VAC system.

So, from your symptoms, I would first check your wiring at your home and that it is wired properly for your Rv to be connected to. Many people do not wire the connector at their home properly for the RV's 30-AMP external power cable to connect to.

Sadly, you have a number of electrical devices to most likely replace such as your fuse panel, converter, and the associated wiring before you can troubleshoot the rest of your electrical system for problems.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 15, 2020:

Derrick - You have a COACH battery in your RV that powers these things, and one of the most common mistakes of RV owners is to not keep this battery in good condition and fully charged.

You should make sure yours is working properly before you look at anything else.

Good luck,

DON

Keith@andersontrailers.com on August 15, 2020:

I had a blow out on my Evergreen Everlite 2011 5th wheel. The wiring under one slide out wrapped around and broke numerous wires. I figured out and connected several but I have a few that goes to the reading lights that I cannot figure out. I have searched for a diagram of the electrical underneath but cannot find one. Do you know where I can get a diagram on this model RV?

Chris Ernstes on August 15, 2020:

Wow, so glad I found this site! We have a 1996 Fleetwood Southwind storm. while driving it yesterday, the engine went dead. Discovered that the motor battery had failed, and ended up melting the positive hook up post completely off! Purchased a new battery, installed it and the motor started up just fine and we drove back home. (were just a few miles from home, fortunately!) When we arrived home and plugged it into our 30 amp hook up, no electricity in the rv. Discovered that the fuses on the converter had completely melted, along with the plastic housing for the fuses. Not sure if the battery just went bad and caused a surge, battery was overcharged because of another failure and went bad and surged?

Derrick Palmer on August 14, 2020:

I have a 1995 tioga c class, all lights were fine 2 weeks ago , but now certain section the lights do not work, fan in bathroom does ot work and hot water tank is a no go . Any thoughts

Shayna Ferguson on August 14, 2020:

First off amazing page! Now to my question...our 2007 keystone trailer appliances make fast clicking noises and flicker on and off, this includes the microwave, fridge, and the combo washer dryer. We tried plugging the microwave as well as the washer dryer into a 5000 watt generator using an extension cord and these symptoms still occurred. The washer dryer did flicker and eventually turned on for just a few minutes, just enough time to make the clothes wet then stopped working and went back to clicking on and off. We purchased the unit used and fear that the appliances are all fried. Have you herd of this is there possibly something that we are missing? Thank you again I sure hope we luck out and can fix the problems we are having.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 13, 2020:

Anthony - The first problem to look at is the fuse that keeps blowing. 1-Check that you have the right value fue in the fuse holder. Sometimes people will replace a fuse with one that is the wrong value, if it is wrong, then replace it with one that is the right value. 2- If the fuse is not the problem, then you need to turn OFF everything in your ToyHauler area that operates on 12-VDC, and see if the fuse still blows. 3- If it doesn't blow, then turn on your equipment, one at a time and determine which equipment is blowing the fuse. If the fuse still blows, with everything OFF, then you most likely have a short in your wiring harness somewhere.

Good Luck,

DON

Anthony Phelps on August 12, 2020:

I have a Cyclone Toy Hauler 5th wheel, in the garage I have 3 lights that will not work and everytime I try to put a fuse in, it immediately blows. The fan works, the outside door lights work...any idea what the issue may be or what I may try troubleshooting. Thanks for any help!

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 12, 2020:

MIKE - From your symptoms, it is most likely that your 12-VDC COACH (AUX) battery is not fully charged. Your Converter keeps it charged, but the converter is powered by your 110-VAC power, so make sure your RV is plugged into the power box in your campsite.

Good Luck,

DON

Mike on August 11, 2020:

My 5th wheel just lost most of the power! some power lights are on but will not turn on. The light were going light an then deem like a touch lamb before going off for good. We had to sleep in the car tonight any idea were to start. My idea is the power cord, or the converter Maybe.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 11, 2020:

Phyllis - The very first thing you should do is check that you connected ALL of the wires properly whn you changed the battery. It is not uncommon for people to not put things back the way they were, or even leave a wire loose.

This is most likely cause of your problem.

Good Luck,

DON

Phyllis holmes on August 10, 2020:

I just changed my house battery and the fan in the fuse box is not shutting off… Why is that?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 09, 2020:

Paul - The engine fuse box would be located where the truck manufacturer had the fuse/relay box for the engine.

On the newer Class-B+ motorhomes you can normally find the fuse box, relays and control equipment mounted in the cabinets.

But when it comes to the older ones, this electrical gear could be placed anywhere, sorry to say.

I would trace the heavy wires from the COACH batteries because the HOT wires would go to the interior fuse panel.

Good Luck,

DON

Paul halsted on August 09, 2020:

We bought a 2007 Dutchman Durango class b plus can’t find the circuit or fuse box

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 08, 2020:

Chris Knob - OK,Let's tear this one down and get to the root of your problem.

First, Your slideout and power jacks operate, so your camper batteries have a charge on them.

But, your interior lights, water pump and electric thermostat do not work, and all of these things operate on the same batteries, via our DC Fuse panel.

With that said, you say all of the fuses are good but your symptoms say that normally you should have some blown fuses, you could have some wiring that has been torn up.

I believe you should use a multimeter and measure the voltage in several places; across the battery terminals (must be at least 13.5-VDC (fully charged, up to 14.5-VDC (being charged) and it must not be around 12.5-VDC because this indicates that the converter is not charging the battery.

Then you should check the voltage going to; the interior lights, the fridge, the water pump and the electric thermostat. Each of these should have the same voltage going to them that you read across the battery.

Good Luck,

DON

Chris Knob on August 08, 2020:

I have a 2015 Springdale Camper Trailer. The interior lights, fridge, water pump and electric thermostat do not work. But the slide out and all power jacks operate just fine. I have had the batteries tested, they tested good, I replaced the convertor with a brand new on. None of the breakers are tripped, I have pulled all the fuses in fuse panel and they are good. There is a 15 amp fuse coming off the battery(its the only one I can find) it was blown but I replaced and it hasn't blown again. When I hook up to our generator, I can get the plugs to work but nothing else. Any ideas??? I appreciate any help I can get . Thank you

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 05, 2020:

John - From your symptoms, I have to make a few assumptions, the first of which is are you talking about your DC-VOLTAGE system? I have to ask if you possibly replaced or rewired your COACH batteries in your RV? Because, if they are wired properly, it is impossible to have such a high DC-VOLTAGE from them to your RV DC-Voltage electrical system.

If you're talking about your AC-VOLtAGE System? Sure, you may have a 50-AMP AC-Voltage system but this has nothing to do with your DC-VOLTAGE system.

Now, if you're actually talking about your 110-VAC 50-AMP AC-Voltage System and you are only reading 29-VAC then you need to go to your campsite power box and check if you have the proper voltage there.

Good Luck,

DON

John Ramber on August 04, 2020:

im getting 29 volts everywhere in my travel trailer. Its a 50 amp system and even coming in the fuse panel is 29 volts. Can you help please?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on August 03, 2020:

Tom - From your symptoms, I am guessing that your COACH battery may not be fully charged. Check it before you do anything else.

And make sure you used the proper model# LED lamps for replacing your old incandescent lamps.

Your slide also operates on your COACH battery, and if the fuses are good in your interior 12-VDC fuse panel then you can also make sure you have your AUX Cut-Off switch in the right position.

Good Luck,

DON

Tom Plunkett on August 02, 2020:

In the process of replacing 2 old overhead 12v lights (that worked) with LED lights, something happened. There is no longer any voltage at the wires going to the lights and the slide out has stopped working. Fuses are all good.

Don Bobbitt on July 31, 2020:

Susan Wallace - Your symptoms are sparce, but because you mention that your camper batteries (ie. your COACH batteries) only gt enough power when you run your truck engine does give me a hint about your problem.

First of all, your TV would be powered by your camper's INVERTER, which converts your 12-VDC from your COACH batteries to 100-VAC for your TV.

Normally your ENGINE electrical system would be separate from your COACH electrical system, so

I can speak to your racing your truck engine affecting your Camper power system.

But you are aware that your RV's batteries are kept charged by the builtin CONVERTER which in turn gets its power from your 110-VAC system, which comes from your external power source like in a campground. So, every few days, you must plug your camper into a 110-VAC source and recharge your COACH batteries.

I hope this helps?

DON

Susan Wallace on July 31, 2020:

My coach is not getting full power off of my batteries. Everything seems to work but my TV sound doesn’t which is an indicator of low battery power. Sound works if I run the truck to put more juice into it. What could be wrong?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 30, 2020:

Michael - I believe I understand. You did state that your Converter power indicator light was turning ON and OFF. This is an indication that its 110-VAC input to the Converter is turning ON and OFF. As you know the Converter keeps your COACH batteries charged and it is plugged into a 110-VAC receptacles that is powered by one of your breakers in your breaker box. Admittedly, intrmittent problems can be tough to find the cause, but this is the best I can dfo for you without being there and examining your RV electrical system myself.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 30, 2020:

Frank - From your symptoms, it sounds like you need to check our adapter cable that you use between the generator and your camper. Your warning light is telling you that the wiring (HOT and COMMON lines) are reversed and need to be changed.

Good Luck,

DON

Michael Rader on July 29, 2020:

Brother I don’t think you’re hearing me. I’m telling you I have three batteries that are fully charged, we have replaced the converter with a brand new one, and we are still losing low-voltage power intermittently. And it now looks like it does it most often when the water heater is turned on. All AC appliances stay on during the intermittent power loss.

Frank on July 29, 2020:

I just purchased a champion generator inverter for my pull behind camper. I used it and my red light on my plug head came on. They say that means reverse polarity. What do I need to do?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 29, 2020:

Jordan h - You should have an ON/OFF switch for your Hot Water Heater; as well as a switch for selecting 110-VAC or Propane to operate it. Check that these switches are in the proper positions.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 29, 2020:

Dennis - With a fifth-wheeler the door entrance light and the step are powered by your AUX (Coach) battery. The step light is also powered by the same battery.

And, when you turn OFF your CUT-OFF switch, the other DC equipment inside your RV are disonnected, by=ut typically not the step or the entrance light. They are controlled by your switch at the entrance. because you may use the step or the entrance light while traveling and making occasional stops, as well as while in campsites and not hooked up. And, check your Coach battery and that it is fully charged.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 29, 2020:

Michael - Your Thermostat, lights and often the stereo all operate on your COACH batteries. Check if they are fully charged before you do anything else.

Good Luck,

DON

Jordan h on July 28, 2020:

Hello I just got a 2011 fourseeker And I can’t get hot water ... the stove works but nothing else gets home and where their should be a flame it won’t even light... can anyone help me??? Thanks

Dennis on July 28, 2020:

I have a 2011 Montana 3150 fifth wheel. All electrical worked well until recently. The over head door light as well as the step light stayed on with switch off and then finally disconnected. Any idea what the problem would be?

Michael Rader on July 28, 2020:

Don thank you for replying. Our AC power is not going off, only DC. Our residential refrigerator, out TV’s all stay on during the outages. Only logic stuff goes off like thermostat, lights, and stereo.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 28, 2020:

Michael - from your symptoms, I suspect that you may have an intermittent 110-VAC power source to your RV or inside it..

Start at your campsite power box and make sure your external power cord is firmly connected at each end. If you have one, use a multimeter to measure the campsite voltage. Then, reset ALL of your breakers in your breaker panel, in case one is only partially kicked off.

Good Luck,

DON

Michael Rader on July 27, 2020:

Thank you for his page! Spent well over an hour going through all of your Q&As but can’t find an answer to my issue. Like others I’m having intermittent 12v power loss. Every once in awhile we lose all lights as the converter goes off for about 60 seconds then back on. I was certain it was the converter because my 2 batteries were only a year old (and filled with water). I replaced the converter with a brand new one and to my dismay we are still having the same issues. I then took both batteries to O’Reillys to have them tested and they both came back as good batteries. I went ahead and bought a third battery and hooked them up. Later that day we lost 12v power again. Very, very frustrating. When the converter resets I see a green LED on the panel turn off then blink on when power is auto-restored. What else could be the issue? Thank you!

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 27, 2020:

Kurtis - Remember that you have a COACH battery in your camper that provides the power for all of your camper's lights, among other things.

Always make sure your battery has water in it and is fully charged. This battery is kept charged by your camper's Converter which is in thrun powered by your camper's external power source.

A Coach battery that is not fully charged is the leading cause of interior lights not operating.

Good Luck,

DON

Kurtis on July 27, 2020:

I have a 2019 Forest River Stealth toy hauler and recently, my bedroom lights , one on a switch and one push button stopped working. I also notice my outside light by the hitch doesn't work either. All of the nonfunctioning lights are in the front of the trailer. Checked all switches, fuses, breakers which are all good. Swapped out a couple of the lights with ones that are working - not the lights. I'm thinking a wire nut or connection has vibrated loose. How should I approach troubleshooting this?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 23, 2020:

CompleteNewbie - Yep, almost all motorhomes require that the Parking Brake be on before the slides will work.

Have a Great day,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 23, 2020:

Complete Newbie - Welcome to the world of RV travel. First, on an older Rv, you must always keep the AUX batteries fully charged. They are kept charged by your RVs Converter and sometimes, it will be able to power some of your interior electrical devices. So, check that the battery(s) is not old (5 or more years) and that is has plenty of water(distilled) in it. SO, from your symptoms, I do suspect your AUX battery (s).

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 23, 2020:

gblues45 - Your Fridge control circuit board is powered by your 12-VDC AUX battery. The other wire that you say powers your Awning and interior lights? Well, the interior lights are powered by the same 12-VDC battery in your RV. With a motorhome the awning would normally be powered by your Engine battery, but having a 5th wheel, it looks like they just spliced into the wire you mention to get to the AUX batteries.

So, the first thing you do is check that fuse and see if it is what the Rv electrical system is designed for. If it is, then you should check that the awning isn't drawing too much current. BUT, if you are not qualified to get into current measurements, please stay away from this problem. remember, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL YOU. The design engineer would not have normally loaded up a fuse to right at the fuses limit, so I am guessing the awning motor is drawing too much current, or the they ties something else to the wire that feeds the awning???

Goo Luck,

DON

CompleteNewbie on July 23, 2020:

We're such idiots. Just read on a forum that we should make sure the parking brake is engaged because some models won't extend until the brake is on.

Apparently ours is one of those models. Thanks again for the great article. I'm saving it for a resource in the future.

CompleteNewbie on July 23, 2020:

First of all, Thank you Don for a very informative beginner article.

My husband and I just purchased a 2001 Thor Four Winds 23J Class C motorhome and we're completely overwhelmed. Perhaps we're not made for all this!

We took the RV to a repair shop for tires and to repair the traffic blinkers, but when we got it home after the repairs, the slide would not work. (Everything worked perfectly before.)

The battery power switch is on, we've run the generator successfully and all the other electric works (AC, water pump, water heater), and we have checked the fuses which all look good.

The only thing we have not done is to plug it into shore power. The battery reads at the highest level on the test level lights. Could the battery still be low charge?

Also, there is no whirring or any sound at all when we push the extend button. Just nothing.

gblues45 on July 23, 2020:

I have a 2018 Grand Design 5th wheel. The fuse for the refrigerator, some lights and a small awning kept blowing. On the back of the Fridge are some junction boxes and connections. The original wiring has two wires that were connected to make a single wire and then connected into the 12v connections on the back of the fridge. I ran separate wires from the main fuse box in the rv to fridge and got the fridge working (both hot and neutral) However, the small awning and several lights still don't work. I tried connecting them into my temporary wire like the original wiring and the fuse blew again. I am thinking I have a short in some of the wiring for the awning and lights. I checked the awning motor and it works when connected directly to a 12 volt battery. How do I find a short in these wires that run willy nilly with different color wires? Any thoughts or advise would be appreciated.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 23, 2020:

Ian - On most motorhomes, the entrance light switch is only for the ceiling light nearest the door. Considering you have no other problems, and that the light affected operates with its manual switch, I would go to my DC Fuse panel cnd check for a blown fuse.

Good Luck,

DON

Ian Couzens on July 22, 2020:

I have a 2006 tifften allegro bay and all the lights work from there swiches but not the swich as you enter the rv. tested the swich and the swich is good

I have a black wire and a yellow wire.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 22, 2020:

Margie - Your camper should have a built-in battery that must be kept charged. It powers these lights and other interior electrical equipment that operates on 12-VDC. Also, make sure that the LED lamps you used are direct replacements for your old incandescent bulbs.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 22, 2020:

Richard, Typically on motorhomes, the exterior light over your entrance door is powered by your Engine (or Main ) battery. In trailers, it is powered by your COACH (or AUX) battery. Either way, if the switch is not functioning, check that it has 12-VDC voltage on each side of the switch.

DON

MARGIEJAZ on July 21, 2020:

We just acquired a 2002 kiwi 21c. The outside auxillary lights dont work. I replaced fuses, check breaker, replaced lights with led ones, checked wires and connections. And still not working. Can you advise?

benjamin lamb on July 21, 2020:

RV house batteries are new and 13.5vdc. the input house dc power at the front fuse panel is 10.6vdc. what is causing this voltage drop?

Richard Wolf on July 20, 2020:

Light switch which controls outside lights stays on as well as the lights outside. Will not turn off.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 20, 2020:

Good, but you could still have either loose connections or bad oxidation where the wires inside the RV are tied to the body, as I mentioned.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 20, 2020:

Rarejul - First of all, remember that your lights operate on your AUX battery(s) in yoyr camper, so make sure they have water in them and that they are fully charged. This is the most common cause of your problem.

Next, you should check that your campsite power box is providing the proper power to your RV; 1- check that your external power cable is fully plugged in on both ends and 2- that the pins on the connectors are not oxidized and in need of cleaning.

Good Luck,

DON

Richard Tucker on July 19, 2020:

thanks,ill try that,the cord thats on it is the cord built into the rv that you pull out of the side of camper

Rarejul on July 19, 2020:

Question, I took my 20013 fun finder out and plugged into shore power at campground. Turned on my light over the sink and realized I had a blown fuse. Replaced fuse and the lights work. Problem is that the fuse panel starts to light and I get dimming and fluctuation with the light on, or using the GFI outlet on this circuit. Any ideas where I should start looking.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 19, 2020:

Richard - As you know, a GFCI will kick if it detects any minor current leakage between the COMMON wires and GROUND.

And, many older portable generators do not have a GFCI protected output.

As to your camper trailer, it is wired with a solid ground to the chassis.

The next thing to consider is that your cable from the RV to the generator may be too long because it could have some induced current between the common and ground wires that a new more sensitive GFCI could detect.

TRy grounding your generator and purchasing a cable with larger wires in it to reduce any potential current losses from it

Also, 1-disconect the RV and see if just having the cable connected works, then 2- turn OFF all of your AC-Viltage breakers, including the MAIN, and then try to run the gen with the RV connected.

then 3-chek inside the RV, near the external power connector and examine where the GROUND and COMMON are connected to the chassis.

Good Luck,

'DON

Richard Tucker on July 19, 2020:

i had my trailer running on ac at home with everything fine.took the trailer 4hrs to site,no electric on site.plugged rv to brand new briggs 6500 watt gen. and it instantly stapped gfi receptical on gen,tried over and over and it did it every time.i have run it on a different gen before with no prob.i dont ground the gen. but i never have,didnt know what might cause this.woudering if the was a short somewhere from travel

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 16, 2020:

Brenda - With a Lightning hit you never can tell just how much it was damaged without a thorough physical inspection of the interior wiring before you try anything.

If it is new, you should contact the manufacturer and check what they tell you is how they recommend it be covered under their warranty. And you should also contct your insurance company about what they recommend.

The problem for you is how potentially dangerous using it might be before it is used again without a professional going over it for you.

Good Luck,

DON

Brenda on July 15, 2020:

Our son's new 5th wheel with slide outs was indirectly hit by lightning on the ground near it.

My question is will the be 5th wheel be repairable? Or are the electrical wires fried?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 12, 2020:

Gordon - You have a number of power modules in your RV for controlling different electrical equipment.

You hae a breaker panel in your Rv that has breakers that turn ON/OFF 120-VAC to a number of electrical equipment in your RV.

So, as to your Air units, they are controlled (on/off, temperature, etc.) by your temperature control panel, which is powered by your RV's 12-VDC battery(s)

I recommend that you check this battery voltage and that it has water in it. The battery must be fully charged for a number of electrical equipment to function properly, so check that your Converter is functioning properly and has your batteries fully charged. This is the top problem for most RV's with interior electrical equipment. Of course, your AC units run on 220-VAC, but they are controlled by this panel that operates on 12-VDC.

Good Luck,

DON

Gordon Cachola on July 12, 2020:

I have a 2011 Montana with 2 AC units that have trip the brakers and not able to reset, I have a code that stated: loss of 120 VAC power to all power module boards on the system. Are these module boards within the AC units of is there an external power distribution penal for these units? One AC unit is factory install and the other was installed 6 years ago that is not controlled by the thermostat.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 11, 2020:

Robin - No Problem. I love helping my fellow Campers.

Have a Great day,

DON

Robin on July 11, 2020:

Thank you.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 10, 2020:

Ray - Let me first say that with your electric leveling jacks you should first check the fuse in your fuse panel that should have blown and protected your wiring.

Each jack is essentially a sliding center rod that is driven up and down by your Jack control panel. One problem that occurs often is that the jack can become jammed. When this happens, the electric motor for each jack can draw too much current and thus possibly melt your wiring, if the fuse does not blow.

I recommend that you take pictures of the wiring and contact the THOR customer service and demand that they fix this problem. If the fuse in the fuse holder is the proper value then the it would have blown and this would not have happened.

Good luck,

DON

Rey on July 10, 2020:

We have a 2019 THOR Quantum that has two rear electrical stabilizing jacks. The Right side works, the Left doesnt. I looked at the wiring to the main header for the jacks and noticed one of the wiring connections (yellow wire) was burnt and melted the snap connect fitting. This is the reason behind the Left side not working I'm sure even though I'm not an electrician or claim to be one. Is this something that I should attempt to fix or should I take it to an RV shop and have them fix it as I'm wondering why it burnt out and is it a fire hazzard concern as the other wires and connection is looking like it too is starting to discolor the red wiring to the other wire fitting. Thanks and any advise is greatly appreciated. Rey in Colorado

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 09, 2020:

francesca - your rv has a standard RV external power cord. And any external receptacle you use for power should be able to match the connection on that power cord. I suspect that your household 30-amp cord is not wired the same as is required for an RV, so you should get the wiring done properly at the house and with your cord. PS. a 100-foot cord would have a lot of current loss, unless it was wired with very large wire.

Good luck,

DON

francesca plotino-graves on July 09, 2020:

We have just had a dedicated 30 AMP receptacle added to our garage so we can use shore power when we are getting ready to go on a trip. We also bought the BEST we could find, 30 AMP extension cord @ 100 FT.

We plugged this in for the first time today and we have no power. so we turned on inverter and now the Air conditioner (only thing we're running) keeps going on and off.

We're newbies to this 2013 27N Vista Winnebago as well as the RV world.

What are we missing or not doing correctly?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on July 09, 2020:

Jack - Each of the lights you mention are powered by the engine electrical system.

You should first check that the engine batery(s) is fully charged, and then go to your fuse panel under your hood. Check that all of th fuses are good and if they are, then you should get a multimeter and measure that you have voltage to the fuse panel and also out of each fuse.

Cold you have a ground problem? well, in most rv's, just like in your automobile,each type of accessory is usually tied to the nearest ground point on the chassis.

Good luck,

DON

jack on July 09, 2020:

my headlights, dash lights and turn signals do not work on my 2002 Ambassador motorhome. I changed the headlight switch and now the dash lights work but my headlights and turn signals still do not work. I'm thinking it might be the ground wire? If so where would the ground wire be located for my Ambassador?

Christopher on July 02, 2020:

2001 Aerolite Cub had the inverter system fail and no longer charged the battery -- purchased a replacement DC inverter/AC breaker assembly and carefully duplicated the wiring hookups from the original.

In the old setup, the AC panel and the refrigerator were both hooked into the same breaker. Now, if the breaker is switched off, the AC panel works- lights turn on, etc- but the fridge doesn't work. If the breaker is switched on the fridge works, but the AC panel doesn't.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 30, 2020:

Dave - You must hae your COACH batteries in your Rv and they must be kept fully charged. These batteries power such things as; your interior lights, your 2-Way Fridge control ciruit board, your alarms, your tenperature control panel, and your power management panel. The batteries are kept charged by your Converter and it is powered by your 110-VAC Rv power.

Get those batteries operating properly and your problems will likely go away.

Good Luck,

DON

Dave Hasler on June 29, 2020:

We recently purchased a 1996 Fleetwood Prowler. We had it plugged into our home, (No batteries are connected). Everything worked great for a few weeks, and now nothing EXCEPT the microwave runs. There IS power to breakers, and fuses. GFCI is not tripped. Any ideas?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 28, 2020:

Robin - boiling batteries is never a good thing, and fixing this should be your first priority.

From your symptoms you mention that you recently changed your batteries. I suggest that you go back and check that you took care to check that you wired the batteries back EXACTLY like they were before. Not wiring the new batteries properly is a top problem for the uninitiated RV owner.

Your RV has a Converter which is designed to keep your batteries charged, but NOT to apply so much voltage that a bettry would boil.

Good Luck,

DON

robin talbot on June 27, 2020:

hi don ,have a 2008 astoria 38 feet 6.7liter engine , Electrical problem ,when connected on shore power rv power goes out intermitted ,blackout completely, indicates E5 OL on board inside rv ,batteries are new . Lost my marker lights outside too . noticed that batteries on inverter seem to be boiling is this normal thanks

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 24, 2020:

Stephen - When contractors rewire an RV for Solar Power, asn your symptoms indicate has been done to your RV, they do some custom wiring that I cannot see.

But, speaking generally the number one problem with batteries is that Rv owners do not wire them back the same as they were when they change to new batteries. The number two problems is that people do not maintain their batteries and they become low on water.

SO, I would recommend that you go back and make sure you have everything wired exactly as they were.

Good luck,

DON

Stephen Leech on June 23, 2020:

I have a Challenger Mageo Rv 2.3. 2 leisure batteries in the back and a starter battery underneath the drivers seat. I recently renewed all 3 batteries but now the control panel will not register the starter battery only when electricity is hitched up.

I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting all 3 batteries alternately, checked every fuse with a multi meter including the 2 bolted down 50 volt fuses and the 70 volt and also the 32 volt...all registering OK. I have tried every fuse on the control panel...all good and the fuses that the mechanics added for the 2 solar panels on the roof.

There is no reset button on the control panel but everything else is working fine including registering the leisure batteries, water pump etc and as I said the starter battery when hitched up to electricity.

Im at my wits end with this one

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 22, 2020:

Roger - As you know your Fleetwood motorhome has either;

1-two 6-VDC batteries for the engine, and two 6-VDC batteries for the COACH compartment electronics.

Or, 2- it has two 12-VDC batteries for each function.

Of course, the wiring would be different in the battery compartment depending or which battery type was used.

But as I think about your symptoms, I cannot imagine a way you could have wired the batteries into the RV that would cause the ignition to stay on (ie. engaged starter), unless the ignition switch was "fried" or the ignition solenoid is stuck ON.

I would disconnect the wires from the solenoid and see if the solenoid "drops out".

Good Luck,

DON

Roger Pletan on June 22, 2020:

I recently purchased a 1999 Fleetwood RV. The engine batteries were low so I took them out and charged them up. I made an error in reinstalling them. I have now got everything working except the ignition stays on without the key on. Can you help.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 21, 2020:

Kyle - Your COACH batteries power a number of 12-VDC items in your camper, and they are kept charged by your Converter.

If you do not keep good fully charged batteries in your Rv then things will have to run on the Converter alone. Your problem will be that your Converter is not designed to run all of your 12-VDC appliances, so you will have times when certain equipment will not operate.

Good Luck,

DON

Kyle on June 20, 2020:

Both of my batteries are bad in my camper but i am plugged into the house where i am staying. Am i hurting anything by not having batteries or is it ok to run my camper this way?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 20, 2020:

Sherri - Check those battery connections again.

Your COACH batteries are kept charged by your CONVERTER, which in turn operates on your 110-VAC. From your symptoms, you may not have your batteries connected properly and are operating on your Converter when your Rv is plugged into external power.

Good Luck,

DON

Sherri on June 18, 2020:

We have a 2018 Thor chateau. We took it out of storage and connected the 2 batteries and we have no power. The main switch does not have any lights. Checked batteries and both have over 12 volts. Checked the 2 40 amp fuses and both are fine. However, we have power when we plug it into the house. Help?

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 16, 2020:

Ginny - Did you install the new AC or did the dealer? Your symptoms state that the old AC worked but was no longer cooling. So, I would suspect the installation.

Go back and check that all of the wiring was done properly. The thermostat wiring to the AC should be the same as with the Zone-1 AC unit, so you can use it as a guide, but BE CAREFUL! If you get into the AC unit there is AC-VOLTAGE in the unit and you could be hurt, or worse.

Good luck,

DON

Ginny Upton on June 15, 2020:

We purchased a new heat pump for zone 2. The old wasn't cooling. We could set temp etc and actually could use zone 2. Now, after installing new, we have no zone 2. We have 12 volts when the power is off at the thermostat but 6 when it's on. Thermostat doesn't recognize zone 2. 2007 Coachman Sportscoach. Duo Therm Heat pump changed to Penguin Heat pump.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 13, 2020:

Pat - This often raises red flags for me because so many people make their own external power cables and adapters and quite often, they do not wire them properly for an RV. But you said that everything worked normally for you for quite a while, so I would discount this as being your problem.

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 13, 2020:

Pat - The first thing you need to keep in mind about your RV is the fact that you have a number of appliances, lights, alarms and other devices that operate on your 12-VDC COACH batteries. So, you need to keep it (them?) in good condition, full of distilled water and fully charged.

If you have a multimeter then you should check the voltge directly across the terminals of the COACH battery. Typically, if you read around 14.5-VDC then your Converter is running and trying to charge the battery, If you read around 13.5-VDC then the battery is fully charged, and if you read around 12.5-VDC the battery is not fully charged and the converter is not charging it.

Your Converter runs on your 110-VAC so it could be your problem if the battery voltage is low.

These were the easy things to check that are the more common problems, now to your breaker.

If you have a breaker that will not reset, then you either have a bad breaker, or you have something on that circuit that is drawing lot of current.

Your Fridge is called a 2way Fridge and it will operate on either 110-VAC or Propane, and it has a control panel that operates on your 12-VDC. So check if it will switch over to propane, and if not then you may have a battery voltage problem. If it does operate on propane then the 110-VAC is most likely missing.

Your Tank Level display also operates on 12-VDC which indicate th battery or Converter?

GFCI receptacles are commonly found in your bathroom and kitchen areas because these areas are where you may get shocked by touching metal appliances with electrical problems. Your bedroom and living area receptacles are typically just regular receptacles.

With all of this being said, I ope you can deduce what your real problem is.

From your symptoms, I would unplug everything that is plugged into all of your receptacles and see if the breaker resets. If not then you may have a bad breaker that needs replafing.

Good Luck,

DON

Don Bobbitt (author) from Ruskin Florida on June 13, 2020:

Larry - Before you go any further, make sure your RV's COACH battery is fully charged because your temperature control panel is powered by your 12-VDC. If your battery is not fully charged then the thermostat can do some strange things.

You may want to read my article on HubPages "How to Service Your RV Furnace" and go through the steps to see what might be bad.

Good Luck,

DON

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