Troubleshooting and Repairing RV Electrical Problems for the Beginner

Updated on January 8, 2018
Don Bobbitt profile image

Don has been an avid traveler and motorhome owner for most of his life.

The Novice and Electrical problems

An RV is a complicated Electrical machine

The RV that you see today is a complicated machine with a lot of built-in electrical devices.

And, along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry.

This article is written to provide some basic but valuable information for the typical RV owner to help them with defining and repairing Electrical problems efficiently and safely.

Electrical Safety comes First!

ELECTRICITY Can KILL!

Please remember this when reading the information listed below.

The information provided here is for you to reference, and in no way should it be abused or used by someone that is unqualified to perform electrical repairs..

Electrical SAFETY:

First, when you start opening panels and messing around with Electrical systems, in an RV/Camper or at home.

There are several warnings you must observe;

WARNING-1- If you do not know what you are doing, do not touch anything, and call your RV manufacturer, or RV Roadside assistance Company, or if at home, your local Certified Electrician. Remember, again, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!

WARNING-2- If replacing a BLOWNFuse, or resetting a KICKED Breaker doesn’t fix the problem, you should seriously back off and call your RV manufacturers Service Center for advice.

Typical Coach Batteries

This is a typical pair of coach batteries and their connections. These are the same as on my motorhome and are two series 6-VDC batteries.
This is a typical pair of coach batteries and their connections. These are the same as on my motorhome and are two series 6-VDC batteries. | Source

Know the difference in a Major and a Minor electrical problem

Is there a Major Problem?

The RV owner, or especially the RV renter, should always make a walk-around inspection of their camper before they go on the road.

And one of the main things that they should be familiar with is the electrical system of the RV.

Oh, I'm not talking about knowing how to perform major maintenance on complex electrical gear and appliances, but rather know how to inspect for problems, and determine if the problem is major or minor.

A major problem might be having the fridge quit working and deciding whether to get into the wiring and propane management circuitry on the back of the fridge or not.

The electrical novice needs to stay away from such repairs, themselves. They are too dangerous and you should always contact a qualified service tech for resolving such problems.

But, a minor problem could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker that has "kicked out", or replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, or some other simple problem.


Electric Multimeter

Klein Tools MM200 Auto Ranging Multimeter
Klein Tools MM200 Auto Ranging Multimeter

When my old multimeter died, I selected this one for its functions, ruggedness and ease of use.

 

Electric Multi-Meter:

One handy device for the RVer to have is a good Electric Multi-Meter.

There are very simple electric devices that you can plug into the wall, and an LED lights to indicate that there is power.

And on the other end of the spectrum of electrical testing devices is the Electric Multimeter.

This Multimeter is capable of measuring DC Volts, AC Volts, as well as electric current and resistance.

This device is very useful in the hands of a trained individual, but the Novice should not attempt to use all of it’s functions until they understand what they are trting to measure as well as any dangers involved in making the measurements.

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Think before touching Electrical contacts

THINK First:

I cannot stress this enough. Your Camper or RV was designed by professionals who planned things out pretty well..

They designed the electrical systems with Safety in mind, as well as for your convenience.

Each electrical device was installed on an electrical line that could safely handle the load.

The fuses and breakers were placed in the system for two major reasons.

1-The first reason is to protect the RV and you the owner from harm if an appliance or other electrical device or even an electrical line fails and draws too much current.

2-The second reason is to protect your RV and it’s electrical appliances and other devices if you plug your RV into an electrical service that is not regulated properly and you get electrical voltages that are too low or too high for your RV and it’s equipment.

So, when you get a blown Fuse or a kicked Breaker, your first thoughts should consider these highly probable causes. Especially, before you go tearing into your electrical system, and personally re-designing it by installing a larger than specified Fuse or Breaker.

Think, Think, Think, and then Think again.


Useful Electrical Terms and data

I have provided a long list of Electrical Terms and color codes for fuses, along with other useful data designed to help the novice be more comfortable with what they are doing when an electrical problem does occur.

Defining Some Electrical Terms

AC-------- AC is the designator for "Alternating Current" The voltage in your home is AC voltage, and typically, in the US is assumed to be 115VAC. Alternating current reverses polarity and flow alternately in both directions in a circuit.

Amp------ The name Amp is used to designate a measure of electrical current.

Capacitor- A capacitor is an electrical component that can store electrical energy, in other words it has a specific electrical storage capacity. A Capacitor often has a polarity and must be installed properly. The polarity is generally indicated by a stripe at one end of the part.

Circuit Breaker----- A Circuit Breaker is a device that is designed to open up or "throw" itself, when the current through it exceeds it's designed limit. Unlike a fuse, a circuit breaker can be reset when it throws. FYI- many people do not realize that, if you have as circuit breaker that has kicked our regularly, it probably is no longer functioning at the original current level. It is a electro-mechanical device, and after repeatedly kicking out, it will often suffer from mechanical stress, and not be able to hold at the original designed current.

DC--------- DC is the designator for "Direct Current". Direct current flow constantly in one direction, commonly from the Positive lead to the Negative lead of a battery for instance.

Diode----- A Diode is an electrical component that allows current flow in one direction and impedes current flow in the opposite direction. The ends are designated as the Cathode and the Anode. The Cathode is usually marked by a stripe at the cathode end, and it allows current flow is from the cathode to the anode.

Fuse------ A fuse is a device that is designed to destroy itself or "blow" when the current that passes through it, exceeds it's designed current limit. It is a safety device used to protect electrical devices under adverse conditions. When replacing a fuse, always use one with the same current and voltage rating.

GFCB----- A GFCB or Ground Fault Circuit Breaker is designed, similar to a regular circuit breaker, to "throw" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit. Additionally, a GFCB will throw itself if even a small amount of current is detected between the "Hot" leads and the ground lead of the circuit breaker.These specialty circuit breakers are required in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and garages. These places are sites where the user of an appliance could possibly be physically touching ground through plumbing, metal or concrete floors, etc, and using an appliance that is not insulated properly. They are life-savers.

ohm------- The word ohm is the a value of resistance to current flow.The resistance can be calculated using the formula: R=V/I, or Resistance equals Voltage divided by current.

resistor---- A resistor is a passive component used in electrical circuits to provide resistance to current flow.

Watt------ A Watt is a measure of electrical power. DC Power can be calculated using the formula: W=V x I.

Wire Gauges----- Wires used in electrical circuits come in many sizes. The size of a wire is selected by the designer to handle the specific current that passes through it, with minimal resistance to the current. Standard wire sizes or gauges go from 0 to larger numbers. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire size.

One-Letter Electrical Abbreviations

f----------- The lowercase letter "f" is a designator for the value of a capacitor called "Farad". Ex: 1uf mean 1 micro-farad.

I------------ The uppercase character "I" is the designator for electrical current or the Ampere, or Amp. Current can be calculated by using the formula: I=V/R, or Current equals the voltage divided by the resistance.

K----------- The uppercase letter "K" is a designator for Kilo" or numerically 1000 would be one Kilo-unit. Ex: 1-KW means one Kilo-Watt.

m---------- The lowercase letter "m" is a designator for "milli" or numerically 0.001 would be one milli-unit. Ex: 1-mW means one milli-Watt.

M---------- The uppercase letter "M" is a designator for "Mega", or numerically 1,000,000 would be one Mega-unit. Ex: 1MW means 1 Mega-Watt.

n---------- The lowercase letter "n" is a designator for "nano", or numerically 0.000000001 would be one nano-unit. Ex: 1-nf means 1 nano-farad

p----------- The lowercase letter "p" is a designator for "pico", or numerically 0.000000000001 would be one pico-unit. Ex: 1-pf means 1 pico-farad.

u---------- The lower case letter "u" is a designator for micro or numerically "0.000001" would be one micro-unit. Ex: 1uf means 1 micro-farad, a value for a capacitor.

V---------- The "V" upper case "V" is the designator for an electrical unit of Voltage. Voltage can be calculate using the formula: V=I x R.

W--------- The upper case letter "W" is a designator for Watt.

Resistor Values and Colors

Color
Value
Black
1
Brown
2
Red
3
Orange
4
Yellow
5
Green
6
Blue
7
Violet
8
Gray
9
White
0
Gold (as the fourth band)
1% tolerance on the value
Silver (as the fourth band)
5% tolerance on the value
No color (as the fourth band)
10% tolerance on the value

The Problem is not Always Electrical

There could be other causes for your problem

This is a very important thing to consider when you have a blown Fuse or Kicked Breaker in your RV. Remember, as I mentioned already, that your RV is a complex home on wheels.

Many of the appliances in today’s RV operate using; AC-voltage, DC-voltage, and Propane Fuel either individually or in combinations..

Often, even when in the Propane Fueled mode, the appliance will require DC-voltage for the Logic circuits.

And many appliances have sensors on their mechanical parts that will kick a Breaker or blow a Fuse, rather than allow the appliance to continue running in an unsafe mode.

How to Use a Multi-Meter

FUSE RATINGS for replacing blown Fuses

In case you do not know this, standard Automotive Fuses are color-coded according to their Current rating, so what I have below is short list for your reference.

One note here though; If you have a blown fuse, replace it with the same rating blown fuse. NEVER use a higher rated fuse in place of a blown lower rating fuse.

There are so many things wrong with this, but there are 2 things at the top of the list that can happen; 1)- You can cause an electrical fire and destroy your RV, and 2)- You can cause the equipment fed by that fuse to be permanently damaged. Always remember, the fuse was designed for a normal operational load. And if it blew, something has changed.


The Color of a Fuse Shows Its Amp Rating

Color
Amperage rating (amps)
 
black
1
 
gray
2
 
violet
3
 
pink
4
 
gold
5
 
brown
7.5
 
red
10
 
blue
15
 
yellow
20
 
clear
25
 
green
30
 

How Much Current Do Your Appliances Draw?

Too much current (amps) will causes your fuses, breakers, and ground fault detectors to shut off as a safety measure. Too much current can melt wires, ruin appliances, and start fires.

It's good to know which of your appliances use a lot of current, even when they are working properly. That way you can decide when and where to use your appliances so that the flow of electricity stays within the bounds your system can handle.

The table below lists the approximate MAXIMUM current drawn by the referenced appliances in your RV. Most appliances draw a lot of current during a short period of intense use and less at other times These current figures are not exact and may vary by manufacturer and model.

Appliance
Current
Notes
Air Conditioner (Maximum use at startup ) (rated 13,500 to 15,000 Btu)
12-14 amps
At startup, this is the peak
Air Conditioner (normal rate after it gets going)
5-8 amps
 
Coffee pot (Maximum use, while perking coffee)
8-10 amps
Once the coffee is through being brewed, the hot plate under the pot uses much less. Turning the temperature down on the hot plate will reduce operating current.
Hair Dryer
8-15 amps
Less powerful hair dryers might be better for RV use.
Crock Pot
1-2 amps
Crock pots are useful for cooking in RVs
Food Processor
3-5 amps
 
Electric Frying Pan
7-11 amps
 
Hand Vacuum (small)
2 amps
 
iron
8-10 amps
 
Microwave Oven
8-13 amps
 
TV (Digital)
1.5 to 5
Depending on the size, the manufacturer, and the technology.
Water Heater (in 120-volt AC mode)
11-13 amps
 

Estimating Maximum Current

If you are unsure of what current an appliance draws, use this simple method to calculate the maximum current it will draw when working.

1. Look for the appliance's power rating in WATTS. You may find it on a label on the appliance, or in the owner's manual, or you can contact the manufacturer or look online.

2. Divide number of Watts by 120 (the AC Voltage), and the result, in AMPS, is the maximum rating of the appliance for current.

Measuring an Appliance's Current Use With a Tool

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor

If you suspect an appliance of drawing too much current, use this handy meter and monitor what it actually uses. This is a valuable tool for your toolbox.

 

How to Calculate Current for most Appliances

Air Conditioner – 13,500 – 15,000 BTU ----- 12-14 Amps

This is the start-upPeak Amps, and Compressor Cycle Maximum Amps. As mentioned in other Blogs, while an AC might run at around 5-8 Amps, it takes a strong surge of current to start the AC and its Compressor.

Coffee Pot ----- 8-10 Amps

This is the Max for when the pot is perking. The current should drop, when only the hot plate is on, after the Coffee is perked. On many pots you can turn the hot-plate temperature down, which will result in a lower operating current.

Hair Dryer: ----- 8 – 15 Amps. The wife and I argue a lot on whether we should keep the “Mega-Amp” monster she loves to use, or get a lower Amperage (and thus heat) rated one for our RV.

Crock Pot: ------ 1-2 Amps. This is a great tool for cooking many foods in an RV.

Food Processor: ----- 3 – 5 Amps

Frying Pan (Electric): ----- 7 – 11 Amps

Hand Vacuum (small): ----- 2-Amps

Iron: ----- 8-10 Amps

Microwave Oven: ----- 8 – 13 Amps

Microwave Mode/Convection Mode, with Conv. Mode being at the highest.

TV Digital: ----- 1.5 – 5 Amps. Dependent on the Manufacturer, Size, and type of technology.

Water Heater, 120 VAC Mode: ----- 11 – 13 Amps

If you are unsure of what an appliance draws use this simple method to calculate the Current:

1- Check the label on the Appliance, if that’s not available, check your Owners Manual, or contact the manufacturer, and find the power rating of the appliance in WATTS.

2- Divide the Watts number by 120 (the AC Voltage), and the result is the max CURRENT rating of the Appliance.

Some Electrical Tips for the RV owner

When all is said and done, there are some things that every RV owner needs to realize about their "home on wheels".

Traveling and Vibrations

A camper, regardless of whether it's a motorhome or a tag-along trailer, vibrates a lot when in transit. And, these vibrations will, at times, literally shake electrical connections loose.

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    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 5 days ago from Ruskin Florida

      Sean - SO, your converter (charger has 13.75 volts at it's output, but the battery is only reading 12-VDC? And the Fridge is blinking? Well, the fridge uses the DC-voltage to power its control circuit board. So, I would check that my battery has water in it first, and if it does, then i would suspect the battery itself as being bad. This is the most common problem in campers with their 12-volt power system. Keep me posted,

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 5 days ago from Ruskin Florida

      Steve Miller - From what you have said, the first thing that comes to mind is do your Air Conditioners work? They run on 220-VAC and if one side of your power input is missing then your AC's will not work. If your AC's do work then you are getting 220-VAC into your Rig. If your AC's do not operate, then from what you have said, I would suspect the campground power panel as your culprit. Keep me posted.

      DON

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      Sean 5 days ago

      Converter is buzzing off and on when lights are off. Turn a light on the buzz sometimes stops but very dim lighting. Tested the converter it was at 13.75. battery tested 12??. The refrigerator is blinking check. I'm lost can't figure out what wrong.

    • profile image

      Steve Miller 5 days ago

      About half the 110V power is out on our fifth wheel. Checked all: GFIs; main 50A breaker; replaced main 50A power cord; reset all breakers. Fireplace & heater, Microwave, various outlets all on left side of RV not working.

      Any suggestions?

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 7 days ago from Ruskin Florida

      Dustin - The most likely problem is the fact that your kitchen receptacles (and others are on a GFI iurcuit. Look for the receptacle that has a couple of buttons on it, and press the reset button. This should fix your problem.

      Good luck

      DON

    • profile image

      Dustin 7 days ago

      Outlets in kitchen are out. All other electrical seems fine. Checked fuses, look fine, most of the wiring is hidden in the walls, so I can’t see if there are any issues with wiring immediately. Now I’m at the end of my non-expertise as to the next step in problem solving. Any suggestions?

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Joe - Bad move but what's done is done. First of all, if your appliances, like your microwave work, then your AC-voltage is OK. But, your camper lights operate on 12-VDC, and it looks like you blew a fuse. First check the main DC fuse on your Rv fuse panel (usually 30-Amp). If its OK, then check the converter fuse which is most probably blown.

      Have a good day,

      DON

    • profile image

      Joe 2 weeks ago

      Accidentally touched black and red wires while disconnecting converter housing lights went out now only have power to the outlets but no lights

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Ronald - Do you mean the propane furnace or are you using a portable heater?? BTW it is never recommended to use a propane heater in a camper. Too dangerous. Get rid of that thing and use a ceramic electric heater. Anyway a portable heater using 110-VAC shouldn't draw so much current just running a fan. The top problem with camper when the lights in a camper dim, its usually the battery, either being low on water, or not being charged properly.

      Keep me posted.

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Kenny R Williams - No, but your Power control panel on your RV does sense of there is a steady power source, and if it is not, then it will reset itself and start its scan process over.

      DON

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      Ronald 3 weeks ago

      2010 Salem villa tagalong , while propane heater on board is in operation the lights in the cabin are surging as well as the fan on the heater, I am puzzled, any suggestions ?

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Kenny - Great! This is probably the most ignored maintenance thing that RV owners forget. I'm glad it worked out for you.

      DON

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      Kenny 3 weeks ago

      Thanks a million added water to the battery. It was very low no more issues

    • profile image

      Kenny R Williams 3 weeks ago

      Thanks for the advice I disconnect the battery and the dc power still works when the ac power goes off is there a safety switch that could be kicking on if there is not enough power coming through the shore line?

      Thanks

      Kenny

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Kenny - This is unusual. The normal cause would be your campground power, so have them check your source where you connect to campsite power.

      You see, if you were drawing too much current on a circuit inside your camper it would kick out a breaker.

      I assume that you know your; camper lights, 2-way fridge, AC control panel all use 12-VDC and this comes from your Camper battery, which is on a built-in charger. If your battery was not handling the load it could be the problem. Check to make sure it has plenty of water and is not a very old battery.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Kenny 3 weeks ago

      We have a 2016 kougar tow behind all the ac electrical goes off for no reason it will then come back on by itself this is becoming more frequently we are living in the camper full time. I have checked all connections and breakers?

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      David - Most RV vehicles are wired so that the TV does not work when the vehicle is in motion. This is the law in some states to avoid there being distractions for the driver. Your conversion may have been wired this way also. They usually control this by plugging the TV into a special 110-VAC receptacle that is turned off when the vehicle is started. Check if the TV is plugged into a receptacle with special markings on it, and move it to one that has power which I assume is provided by an Inverter.

      Good luck, DON

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      david ditoppa 3 weeks ago

      Helloo. I have a 2006 E-150 with a Rengency conversion kit. For some reason when the kids are watching the T.V. in the back and I turn on the wipers or other electronics in the front of the vehicle the T.V. shuts off. I would appreciate any ideas that you have on what is causing the issue... Thank you for your time and effort.. David...

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Ty - I am assuming that your heater is 120-VAC and not DC??

      The most common 12-Voltage problem is a dry battery, so check the water level, and then check the date on the battery.

      If the battery is OK, then you should suspect either the charger for the battery or the campsite power being intermittent.

      Let me know,

      DON

    • profile image

      Ty 4 weeks ago

      I'm experiencing what seems to be a entermittent voltage drop that is effecting my 12 volt system causing lights to dim and heater to slow a bit. What could be the problem. 2009 KZ Spree

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 4 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      OK then! assumed lights you mentioned were RV lights. SO, with what you have said, the most likely problem (and the most common) is your shore power from the campsite being intermittent or, and this is a long shot, your RV power management system thinks it is sensing load variations and is reacting by turning certain circuits on and off. But this is unlikely. I would make sure my Surge Protector is a good one and it isn't your actual problem, if the campground checks their power and confirms it is OK.

      Let me know, DON

    • profile image

      GBEBEE 4 weeks ago

      Double checked the batteries and they are fine. Don't understand the focus on the 12 volt. When the tv and lamps flash any 12 volt lights that are on do not flash.

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
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      Don Bobbitt 4 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      GBEBEE - OK, the transfer switch is controlled by your power control panel. If voltage is sensed on the generator output, then the transfer switch "switches" over to it as the power source and off of the cmapsite power. These should never be connected at the same time and the transfer switch makes sure of this.

      As to the flashing of your cabin lights? Well, you need to put a digital multimeter across your "Coach" batteries. The voltage must be steady. If not then your RV charger is probably cycling for some reason, which would usually means your "Coach" batteries are drawing far too much current and the charger cannot handle the heavy load, and alternately turns OFF its output and then turns itself back on.

      You do have water in your "Coach" batteries, right? And they're not boiling water, Right? And the battery body does not feel hot, Right?

      Keep me posted, DON

    • profile image

      GBEBEE 4 weeks ago

      Thanks Don for your suggestions but I didn't explain about the switch very well. The switch this person was talking about is not one that can be turned on or off. If I understood correctly it is an automatic switch pertaining to shore power versus generator power. Also, the symptoms of our problem have changed a bit. Now our tv and lamps "flash" at random times other than when an air conditioner kicks on. About 30 minutes ago the tv when off while the air conditioner was already running. Our biggest problem is that we are full-timers and can't pop into the nearest service center. Your help is greatly appreciated!

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 4 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      First, reset your site power breaker in hopes i=one side has kicked out, If not, then check and reset your RV breakers with the same hope. The oven should be on its own breaker, but the TV could be on a GFI, so look for your master GFI and reset it.

      If none of these work, the campground could have experienced a power surge that took out the 2 appliances. As your neighbors if they have had any problems. If none of these are the problem then you might want to invest in a Surge protector for your RV.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 4 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      GBEEBEE - OK then, motorhomes will have two switches for controlling 12-VDC in the RV. One is usually labeled and it controls the engine voltage that is usually called MAIN and is used for the door step, power awning, etc. the other is usually called AUX and is used to turn OFF 12-VDC from the COACH batteries to the internal 12-VDC accessories such as; fridge, lights, temperature control panel, etc. The AUX should be ON except when the Rv is in storage.

      DON

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      Sarah 4 weeks ago

      While I was out Today my microwave/convec oven and a tv in the outside compartment both quit. They seem to be broken. We have been plugged in here in this spot for a while now...is this an coincidental appliance problem or an electrical issue?? Both outlets seem to be operating fine. No blown breakers. We tow a 2012 Dutchman Komfort

    • profile image

      GBEBEE 4 weeks ago

      It's a 2013 so not that old. My wife was talking to someone who mentioned a transfer switch?

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 4 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      GBEBEE - Your Air Cond. runs on 220VAC, and when one cycles (starts) it draws a lot more current than when it is just running. As they get older, they draw more and more current. I am assuming more of your "other" 110V AC appliances are running on one leg of the 220 VAC than the other and is drawing just enough at the start to bring the voltage down low enough to make the TB=V turn OFF.

      I would suggest that if your RV is an older unit, you may have to purchase an new one or at least have an electrician check it out.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      GBEBEE 5 weeks ago

      What would cause power interrupt to 110 items such as lamps and tvs when the air conditioner kicks on? The interrupts happen in the blink of the eye but tv has to go through its start up afterwards. This doesn't happen every time but a lot more frequent when more 110 items are on than just the tv.

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 5 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Tommy - OK, First of all, your Rv microwave and Tv works on standard AC-Voltage. Those outlets that don't work are probably on your GFI circuit, so find the master GFI outlet and press the reset button. As to your Fridge and lights, they are 12-VDC, and you should check the COACH battery to make sure it has water in it. It provides your 12-VDC and is kept charged by your Rv charger.

      Have a nice day.

      DON

    • profile image

      Tommy 5 weeks ago

      Hi Don,

      I have a 2004 Fleetwood wilderness 320DBHS and recently all my interior lights, some 120 outlets and fridge/freezer went out, but the tv and microwave still operates. It’s wired for 12v. I checked all fuses and breakers were not kicked. Any suggestions?

      Thanks,

      Tommy

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 6 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Frederic - The fan runs on DC Voltage, and is probably on the same circuit as the bedroom lights. I would suspect that you blew the fuse for that circuit. Check your fuse panel for a bad fuse first. I assume it uses automotive fuses, and you can see when the wire inside is open.

      DON

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      Frederic Dominioni 6 weeks ago

      Hi Don.

      I ordered a new fan for the shower in my airstream (2005 model CCD). I install the unit and connected the wires with the blue electrical connector. Pinched them with pliers. Unfortunately, the fan (new unit) now does not work, not only that but the lights above the bed area are all out now... :/

      Frustrating. I check the fuse box which looks fine...I tried rewiring, still nothing! What can I do at this point? Thank you

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 2 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Joe - OK, If that's what you think!

      But ..... These bulbs do not short out, but they do burn out!

      That leaves a short in the socket? But ..... These sockets are hard wired in a very safe manner which would avoid such a problem unles when you are turning the boub in the socket then the socket is also turning with the bulb. Then there is an outside chance of the wires shorting.

      Sorry,

      DON

    • profile image

      Thank you, could it be a Short? Joe 2 months ago

      Thank you, we think it's a short in one set of interior lights that are occasionally flickering

    • Don Bobbitt profile image
      Author

      Don Bobbitt 2 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Joe and Becky - Well, first of all, not knowing what kind of RV you have, I am assuming your is like mine and so many other Rv's built over the past dozen years or more.

      When I hookup to external power, my monitor can take several minutes to repeatedly monitor the external power supplied.

      While this is going on, all of the lights on the monitor will blink.

      After a period of time, generally 2-3 minutes, the appropriate lights will come on for either a 30-Amp or a 50-Amp service, and then it will allocate the available power to the listed appliances, and turn on these appliance lights.

      If for some reason these lights continue to blink then the monitor is not happy with the external power supplied, typically meaning that there is an external wiring problem or the source is inconsistent.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Joe and becky 2 months ago

      What does it mean when the monitor lights start blinking on the power source indicator .the rv is plugged into 50 amp service.

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      Dan 2 months ago

      thank you Don. will do

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      Don Bobbitt 2 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Dan - Obviously it's not the dash light itself. I would check for wiring that is shorted or more likely, check the dash dimmer for a problem such as a shorted wire to ground.

      DON

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      Dan 2 months ago

      My dash light fuse blows immediately when i turn on. Ford Chassis. changed out with the correct fuse stated in the manual and POP. it blows again. thoughts?

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      Don Bobbitt 2 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      JG - First of all, most of the 12-Volt sockets in an RV are wired directly to the motorhome chassis battery and are on one of the automotive fuses, probably under the hood somewhere.

      And some such sockets have a built-in fuse in the wire to the socket.

      But, DO NOT use these low current 12-VDC sockets for such a heavy load. You could have caused a fire!

      DON

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      JG 2 months ago

      Hi Don~

      Yikes - -I had a PowerVerter plugged into my 12V socket and connected a heater in that had too much voltage for the source. The actual device is fine, but now my 12V is not working. I've checked the fuses and tried resetting the GFCI button, but the socket remains dead (not emitting any charge) along with a few lights. Any ideas how to fix? Thansk for whatever info you can provide! JG

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      JERED - WOW! OK, The first symptom, the blinking gauges and lights, says you probably have a problem with the main RV computer.

      The second symptom of not starting, also indicates a computer problem, so I would get onto the phone to the manufacturers customer service people, ASAP.

      At the same time, I would call my RV Roadside Assistance people to get someone there and look for what they can find.

      This could just be something as simple as a loose connector, or a major problem.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Jered 3 months ago

      Need some help troubleshooting. Traveling down the road and all the gages and dash warning lights started freaking out. Rv was running normal but i pulled off to assess. After doing what i know, i can not get the rv started again. Its acting like a dead battery but all batteries read fine. Help?

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Barry - I haven't looked back and seen the specific Hub you mention, but most RV's also have Inverters to supply 120-VAC for the TV's and a few other appliances in them.

      So, you will see both Converters (chargers) and inverters in RV's for the convenience of not running your generator and still getting to use the accessory you want to use, either on the road or when boondocking.

      If I slipped up on one of my responses, then I apologize.

      DON

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      Barry Roberts 3 months ago

      Don, I just joined this forum. I have been reading quite a few of the comments (RV Electrical problems). In reading your responses, I have noticed that you refer to the onboard battery charger as an inverter. I'm sure you know that is not correct. An Inverter takes 12 Volt power and inverts it to 120 Volts. The on board 12 volt battery charger is a Convertor and converts 120 Volts to 12Volts.

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      RV Carvey - OK, first of all, when you say all DC items work only when you have AC power connected to your RV is the big indicator that your charger is not charging your battery.

      But, you say your battery is new? So, check your battery connections and that it has water in it. And, borrow a multimeter from someone and check the voltage on the battery when your external AC is not connected. It must be over 13-VDC of it is properly charged. If not, then your charger is not working properly.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Alek70 - I'm glad you found a board, I shopped around on Amazon and got one for around $125, so your pricing sounds OK!

      So sorry you had to learn these things the hard way, but do what I do and chalk it down as a learning experience.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      RV Carvey 3 months ago

      Don I need help. 2003 sunnybrook trailer. All AC accessories work. All DC works as long as AC is connected. Brand new battery but no DC items work unless AC is connected. My last battery went dead while operating heater so converter/charger may not be working. All fuses and breakers appear good and functioning. Any thoughts?

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      Alek70 3 months ago

      Don,

      Thanks again. Voltage at batteries is 12.75 so I think your assessment of the circuit board may be correct. Have found one from Dinosaur for a bit less than $200.

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Alek70 - Typically, your fridge will drop into Propane mode when it loses 110-VAC.

      So, as I have mentioned often to others, the control circuit board in the fridge runs on your 12-VDC from your Coach batteries.

      Check that they have voltage and if oso, you may have also damaged the circuit board. On the good side, you can purchase a replacement control board on Amazon and other sites.

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      Alek70 3 months ago

      Hit a snag. Fridge works on electric but not on propane. Seems to be no electricity to propane actuator switch on back of fridge

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Alek70 - Good to hear that things are back up. As you know, your inverter generates 110-VAC from your battery banks 12-VDC. So check that your RV batteries have water in them and are fully charged.

      DON

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Brenda Kirby - First make a quick check of your GFI main receptacle and reset it. The GFI often kicks out if you are using one of the GFI "slave" receptacles.

      If this doesn't fix the 110-VAC problem then borrow someones multimeter and have someone who knows how to work around power circuits check that each of your 110-VAC breakers operates properly both OFF and ON.

      DON

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      Alek70 3 months ago

      Fuses on Inverter are fine

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      Alek70 3 months ago

      Don, Thanks for your help. I replaced all three relays, two in battery compartment and one with the inverter. Lights came on and fridge started beeping. Fixed broken wire at circuit box that went into main circuit breaker. Outlets working. Still nothing from inverter. Intellipower 9100 says it has surge protection but may not have been enough.

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      Brenda Kirby 3 months ago

      1995 Overland Motor Coach . Was using my Fry Daddy and Microwave at same time all the 110 went out checked breakers on and off several times checked shore power it was fine replaced all fuses usually a fast fix with breakers my 220 is still working but none of 110 working. Can hear my inverter running. Unplugged shore power several time and inverter goes off and back on. Any ideas

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Alek70 - Yes, sad to say, it very well could go up to a high level; high enough cause damage in your RV.

      DON

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      Alek70 3 months ago

      Would AC Voltage go way up if governor was off for a few seconds? Was running back and forth trying adjust governor to right voltage inside when rod vibrated out. Vintage camper so no outside outlets.

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Alek70 - FYI - Your Lights and the control circuit board of your Fridge operate on 12-VDC, so check out your RV battery and Converter (charger).

      PS. Adjusting your generator should definitely NOT bolwn or burnt out it's or any other breaker. I suggest that once you get your 12-VDC problem fixed that you get an RV tech to check out your generator, it sounds like it could be not putting out a regulated AC-Voltage?????

      Let me know what you find.

      DON

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      Alek70 3 months ago

      Was trying to tune onboard Onan generator with load on and blew/burnt 15amp circuit breaker (from power surge?) in motorhome. Disconnected from all power and replaced circuit breaker. Air conditioner in unit works but no lights and no fridge, which was the same as before I changed the breaker. Is there another breaker/fuse somewhere? Suggestions?

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      Don Bobbitt 3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Glenbigelow - Check if there is at least 13-VDC on your RV battery. If not, then check out the Converter (charger) and see if you blew it's fuse. This converter charges your battery which powers all of your 12-VDC accessories and is protected by it's own fuse, usually on the front of the converter.

      DON

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      Don Bobbitt 4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Hank - This sounds like you had a power surge and it took out your Main input breaker that is used to remove power from your RV when it is in storage. I would check to see if it still functions (clicks?) when you throw the switch in your RV. If not, then the solenoid might be bad, if it dows, I would check if there is voltage on both sides of the solenoid's connectors.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Hank Heinz 4 months ago

      2016 Jayco Pinnacle 5th wheel. No power at all coming into the unit. Won't even charge the 12 volts battery. All 12 volts work until dead. Heard a pop in the panel not a fuse or breaker but something on the board where the cooling fans are I believe. Any help or suggestions

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      Don Bobbitt 4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Rolanda - Your Fridge control circuitry and your lights run on 12-VDC, so your battery is OK. Your RV has either a 30-Amp or 50-Amp service cord, so if some of your 120-VDC appliances don't work, I would suspect the wiring at your pole. Have your boyfriend find out how to properly wire that 120-VAC to your RV input.

      DON

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      Rolanda 4 months ago

      Boyfriend bought an RV, installed 110 on a pole, plugged it in ,. But only some of the lights and the refrigerator seem to have power. Have replaced the battery and check the fuses. Any ideas? Converter box?

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      Don Bobbitt 4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Miranda - I had an '06 Mobile Suite myself a few year back. Nice Fiver! OK, your portable AC should not have done anything to your Rig of course. But, from what you have said, I would first suspect that you have kicked your main GFI. Look for that receptacle and reset it. BTW, your ceiling lights are run on 12-VDC, not on AC Voltage. Otherwise, you may have damaged the specific AC breaker for that side of your RV.

      Let me know what you find.

      DON

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      Miranda Craycraft 4 months ago

      Don,

      We have a 2011 mobile suite been doing great the last year. We got back from vacation last night and had unplugged out portable a.c. unit that we've been using to help the 2 over head units. Anyways when i plugged the portable a.c. unit in it blew the whole left side and the ceiling fan won't turn on but all the lights on that side is still working. We have checked the breakers and even reset them all and checked the fuses. Still not working. So the plug in our dinner area, behind the couch and both plugs on the end, ceiling fan won't work. Any ideas?

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      KW 4 months ago

      Don, I have a 2008 RAGEN camper with a 30 amp service. When I use my generator to charge the system it does not work. When I plug into an AC outlet I have power to the circuit breaker but to nothing else. The batteries are still powering everything 12v. I am not aware of a switch other than the circuit breaker to shut off the power

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      Don Bobbitt 4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      John Brand - Of course, you know that your batteries supply 12-VDC to your RV lights and other 12-VDC accessories. And these batteries are kept charged up by your built-in charger (Converter?).

      So, normally, that 30-Amp fuse (12-VDC Main) would get its power from the same charger regardless of whether you were running on campsite power or on your generator.

      And, if your generator was running the charger and had a problem, it's 120-VAC would blow the fuse on the charger.

      Assuming your wiring hasn't been changed by anyone, and the generator was factory wired, I am suspicious of your grounding between the generator and your RV Electrical system.

      Let me know what you find.

      DON

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      John Brand 4 months ago

      I have a 2008 sandstorm. With two 6. Volt new batteries. When I turn on generator the 30 amp fuse got so hot it melted plastic around it?? Overheating fuse area???? What's causing this?

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Lorena - Why in the world would anyone bypass the standard power input for your Nomad????? Your RV is designed to be a safe unit with the appropriate grounding passed through the power cable to the ground in the campground. If your wiring is deficient in any way (ground wire specifically), then the GFI receptacles will kick out. And if there is sufficient current leakage your other breakers will kick out. Go back to the standard wiring NOW! For your safety!

      As to your battery removal, let me explain something. The battery in your Nomad is there not only for lights, fridge, chemical alarms, and such, it is also there as a backup to protect your foods and these other accessory functions when your regular AC power is interrupted, so why remove this function.

      Anyway, get that wiring back to standard, and your current leakage between your power lines and the ground will go away. And, you will be a lot safer using your RV.

      DON

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      Lorena Stolsenberg 5 months ago

      We have a 1998 Nomad rv. We ran a separate electric line from our breaker box for the RV. The outlet matches the plug on the RV. We have power to the RV BUT cannot use AC without tripping the circuit breaker. We can use the outlets for charging phones and tablets. The refrigerator works with no problem as do the lights. We do NOT have a battery as we always plug into electric so that is not powering them. We CANNOT use the coffeemaker or microwave. We used a volt sensor and it shows power to the outlets. What are we doing wrong?

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      BLu - OK, this one is strange, for sure. I can think of no condition that an Engineer would design standard two-lamp light fixtures this way. In each fixture, both bulb sockets would normally be wired in parallel. Your problem indicates that they are wired on two different circuits.

      For a quick check, use a multi-merer and measure the DC voltage in each socket, they should both be Hot in one of the positions of the control switch.

      Considering you have 3 different fixtures doing this, I have to say that you need to give me more data, because from what you have told me, it just doesn't make sense to me.

      Let me know what you find.

      DON

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      BLu 5 months ago

      Hi Don,

      I own a 2002 5th wheel Hitchhiker and am having problems with my lights in the kitchen. They all have double bulbs and one of the bulbs in each light is suddenly not lighting up. The bulb looks good but I replaced them anyway but still nothing. The 15 amp fuse is fine. Everything else is working fine. Batteries show full charge.

      There are 3 lights with one bulb working in each of them and both bulbs stopped working in the light above the sink. They have all been working fine since I bought the rig 4 months ago until 2 days ago.

      Thanks

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      localhandyman24 - You have a real problem here. What you have is one of the AC hot wires is breaking down under load, as indicated by your increase in voltage leak as you apply load by turning on the other breakers.

      The bad thing is, you probably need to replace the complete high current cable between the external RV power connector and the main AC breaker panel.

      Let me know what youdo.

      DON

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      Localhandyman24 5 months ago

      I am looking for advice on an electrical problem on a 2009 Keystone 30' camper. I am getting a/c voltage bleed into the ground (frame) of the camper. I discovered this by accident when I leaned in on the metal door sill with wet hands and got a tingle. By my volt ohm meter I am getting about 25 volts with all but the 30 amp main turned off, and it increases with each breaker turned on and peaks out at about 55 volts a/c with all on. Obviously this is a major concern. I have already ohmed out the a/c supply cord from plug to the camper a/c panel to eliminate a broken wire or bad plug. I also cleaned (with a grinder) and reattached the 12v and earth ground at the frame. Any suggestions on what to check or where to start?

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      Snowplowdog 5 months ago

      OK, now I feel a little better. I haven't tested the battery, but it is dated 2011 and I know for a fact that it wasn't charged last year when I bought it and it probably froze over the winter. Once they freeze they are usually junk. I would normally bring them in my heated garage for the winter but the seller had already told me that it wasn't any good. Now I just need to find an LED bulb that won't have a problem if it gets a little higher voltage

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Snowplowdog - Actually, your DCVoltage should always read a little more than exactly 12-VDC.

      Remember the charger (converter) is responding to the demand from your 12-VDC battery to be charged and this means you will see anywhere from 12.7 to as high as 14.2 VDC depending on the condition of your battery.

      But not to worry, all of your DC appliances, including your lamps are designed to operate at these voltages.

      DON

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      Snowplowdog 5 months ago

      So I guess the question remains, why am I getting 13 volts? Would that point to a problem with the inverter? I haven't run anything in the camper besides the lights & radio & I don't want to damage anything else with the higher voltage.

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Snowplowdog - Great to hear you have a resolution. You did make me wonder for a while when all of the other conditions led me to think that the LED's were bad, which is an unusual thing.

      DON

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      Snowplowdog 5 months ago

      Thank you for the response. I brought my multimeter home from work & tested the voltage and it was 13 volts at the socket. I sent the bulbs back and the seller refunded my money for them. In my communications with him, he said even 12.1 volts would fry the bulbs.

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      Snowplowdog 5 months ago

      Thank you for the response. I brought my tester home from work and at the socket it's showing 13-13.1 volts. I have sent the bulbs back for a refund, and in my conversations with the seller he told me that even 12.1 volts would fry the bulbs.

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Snowplowdog - OK, this is a strange one. First of all, these LED lamps have a circuit in them that allow you to plug them in either way, for some of the bodies. They also have a protection circuit in them for reversed DC voltage and for over-voltage. An incandescent bulb, on the other hand just burns brighter until the current drawn burns out the element.

      If your bulb sockets have ONLY 12-VDC to them, an LED Lamp should never blow, much less ever get HOT.

      I suggest that you get a multimeter and measure the 12-VDC at the socket.

      Hopefully, your converter is working OK, and only putting the appropriate voltage onto your DC fuse panel and thus your Fridge, AC control board, etc. Possibly, if your RV battery is dead, the converter might be putting out too high a DC voltage to everything. I would check this, and quickly.

      DON

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      Snowplowdog 5 months ago

      I recently acquired a 1987 Prowler and a having an unusual problem. I decided to switch everything over to LED lighting and when I installed them they got extremely hot, started smoking, and went out. The regular 1141 bulbs work without a problem, but these have been nothing but trouble. Thinking maybe the bulbs were no good, I installed one in my garden tractor and it worked just fine. So, the bulbs are good, and a normal incandescent bulb works fine in the camper, so what could possibly be causing this problem?

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Annie Ann - First of all, if your interior lights work , you have 12-VDc working.

      If your Fridge is one of the two-way ones that can run on AC or Propane, check if it works in AC mode. If it does, then you are getting ACVoltage into your RV. If not then you are indicating that you have nothing working that uses ACVoltage. This would make me check my AC breaker panel next.

      If you do not have any ACVoltage there, then you should check your AC Main shut-off switch that is used when you store your RV, if yoi don't have one of these, then you need to call an electrician who can SAFELY check your ACVoltage input system.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Don Bobbitt 5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Jil - Sorry for the late response, but we have been on the road for a couple of days, but we have landed now, and I am catching up.

      OK, Your most likely problem (hopefully) is your 12-VDC.

      In case you didn't know it, your interior lights, your Fridge controller board, and your AC controller use your 12-VDC system.

      So, you need to make sure your battery is always kept in good shape (full of water, etc.). Check the battery first.

      Second, Check ALL of your fuses, because most RV's have breakers for AC Voltage, and Auto Fuses for DC Voltage. Replace any bad fuses.

      Third, check that the converter is functioning properly and is charging your battery. Use a multimeter to check that the battery shows 13+ VDC.

      These are your top most probable problems, not the AC or Fridge, themselves.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Annie Ann 5 months ago

      My Man just bought a used RV bus. The Air conditioner, microwave and electrical outlets are not working now. The have worked our last two weekend trips. Inside lights work, refrigerator. What could be causing this?

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      Jil 5 months ago

      Don, We have a 2004 pioneer travel trailer and we had a surge or power and now our ac and fridge aren't working. We replaced fuses, reset the unit and replaced breakers because one was fried. We also bought a new converter. Still no luck. Any thoughts?

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      Don Bobbitt 6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Lee Smith - Both the Thermostat and the Alarm are powered by 12-VDC while the GFI is 120-VAC. Use a multimeter and check for the 12-VDC on each of these devices. Is your main DC power switch turned OFF? On motorhomes this is referred to as the "Coach" power switch and is used to stop battery drain by certain accessories when your RV is parked.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Lee Smith 6 months ago

      We recently had a storm, the one side back side of trailer lost power, a gfi plug had to be reset all works except the thermostat and carbon alarm which are on same wall. All fuses checked and work converter works, tried reset on furnace still no power to thermostat. What are we missing?

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      Don Bobbitt 6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Jason Provo - Sorry but this looks like a classic case of a power surge possibly damaging your power converter that charges your "Coach" batteries. Most of them have a fuse that protects them, but sometimes they will be damaged. So, first check that your Coach batteries are being charged. If so, then check your DC-fuse panel. It is a separate panel that has automotive fuses, including one large one (or pair) of typically 30-Amp capacity, If OK, check the other smaller capacity fuses. If there is no voltage at the input to this fuse panel then go back to your converter as the most likely culprit that may be damaged.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Jason Provo 6 months ago

      Don,

      Recently bought a camper and moved into a camp ground. Everything is working except for my center lights and speakers and radio. I came across one of the post that you talked about burnt lights and that it may have been a possible power surge. I think this may be my issue because I show the same problems. I have a 2010 jayco Jay flight trailer. 30amp version. Do you know what I would have to do to get these lights up and running again? Thanks for the help. If I do two post I apologize as I am not seeing my other.

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      Jason Provo 6 months ago

      Don,

      Read through most of the comments and answers you gave for them. One in particular seems to fit my situation with multiple lights "burnt" out and not working and my radio and speakers not working due to a power surge. Possibly from hooking up to the camp power source. If this is the case what would have to be done in order to get the lights and speakers to work? Any help is appreciated. Thanks for the time.

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      Don Bobbitt 7 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Brian - Honestly, without a multimeter, your best bet is ti replace the fuse first. It could be blown, but at the same time, it shouldn't have blown unless your jack was pulling too much current.

      Your fridge only uses the 12-VDc for its control circuit board, so it should not have drained your battery. So, just on a hunch, check the water level in your battery. Also, if your 12-VDC is OK, then your camper's indoor lights should work properly, if not, then my bet is your battery is dead.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Brian 7 months ago

      Hi Don!

      We use an electric jack on our camper that runs through our 12 V battery that was purchased new this year. We ran the jack on our trip this week to leave KNE campsite for the next. We ran the fridge on the 12v battery during our travel to the next campgrounds which took about 3 hours. The jack would not work at the next campgrounds so I assumed the fridge drained down the battery. We used the manual override to crank down the jack. I brought my charger and hooked it up on a 2v trickle charge for the night and it still does not work. I put it on the 10v charge and still can't get the jack to work. The light in the jack does not work either so I am pretty sure the battery is not getting charged or it is not getting power to the unit for some reason. I have a 30Amp snap in metal fuse on the battery connection so I guess that could have been tripped, but how can I tell? I don't have any electrical meters with me. Any ideas?

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      Don Bobbitt 7 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Jenn8 - Your EMS is designed to protect your appliances in your Rv from damage if there is a extreme power surge or extremely low voltage from the campground. As to the current indicator it is just there for you to see how much current is being pulled on each half of your 220-Volt input from the CG.

      As to your furnace fuse? That's a seperate RV furnace problem for you to get resolved.

      Good luck, DON

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      Don Bobbitt 7 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Craig Corrado - Craig, If this indicator LED for your 12-VDC doesn't work, and you're out of warranty, you might want to chop at an RV parts store site such as Camping World for a DC meter that plugs into a cigarette lighter receptacle. They are very handy when you need to know how your batteries are being loaded.

      I personally would not go into a power panel.

      Good Luck,

      DON

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      Jenn81 7 months ago

      Hi Don,

      I have a 2016 Mesa Ridge 5th wheel. We have not had any issues with electrical system until this trip. Pur trailer has a 50amp power plug. We also have progressive industries ems.

      Campground we are at has a 50Amp service at the pedestal. We have our ems plugged into the pedestal and our 50amp power cord plugged into the ems and then to our trailer.

      Last night we blew our 15 amp fuse for the furnace three times! Not sure why. Shouldn't the breaker in the 5th wheel or the ems tripped?

      The ems currently shows that line 1 has 122 volts, 15 amps, !nd is in normal condition. Line 2 shows 120 volts and 3 amps at normal condition.

      Can low amps cause fuses to blow? What should I check or do? Do you think it's a campground issue or my 5er?