Troubleshooting and Repairing RV Electrical Problems for the Beginner
Electrical Problems in RVs: For the Novice
Electrical problems in an RV or camper are very common, and often RV owners don’t know where to start when they deal with them.
This article provides some basic information for the RV owner to help diagnose and repair electrical problems efficiently and safely. I'd like you to:
- Understand your RV electrical system in general.
- Learn how to do some very basic troubleshooting on your RV.
First: Know the Difference Between a Major and a Minor Electrical Problem
If you own or rent an RV, you will want to know enough to at least make a walk-around inspection before you go on the road, especially of the electrical system. Even a novice can learn how to inspect for problems, and determine if the problem is major or minor.
A major problem, for example, may be present when a refrigerator stops working, and you wonder if you should look into the wiring and propane-management circuitry on the back of the fridge or not. For the electrical novice, the answer is no; stay away from such repairs yourself. They are too dangerous, especially when they involve AC power or propane. You should always contact a qualified service tech for resolving such problems.
But a minor problem, one you could address on your own, could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker or GFI that has "kicked out," replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, taking an educated guess as to what caused the breaker or fuse to shut off, or checking the water in your battery.
So how do you tell? Before you start with any hands-on troubleshooting, keep in mind that safety comes first.
Electricity Can Kill!
Please remember this when using the information below!
Before you start opening panels and messing around with electrical systems, in an RV or camper or at home, observe these warnings.
WARNING 1: If you do not know what you are doing, do not touch anything, and call your RV manufacturer, or RV Roadside Assistance company, or if at home, your local certified electrician. Remember, again, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!
WARNING 2: If replacing a blown fuse or resetting a kicked breaker doesn’t fix the problem, you should seriously consider backing off and calling your RV manufacturer's Service Center for advice before doing anything else.
Now—with these warnings in mind—here are some minor problems that you may be able to fix, and some diagnostics that you can run yourself.
Troubleshooting Your RV's Electrical Problems
Every problem is different, but before or after you read the discussion just below of the basics of your system, check the four sections further below on troubleshooting common problems:
- Fuses and breakers
- The 12-volt system
- The power source
- Appliance current draws
Plus I include a section on terms and abbreviations that you may run across while doing your electrical investigation.
Some Basic Electrical Information for the RV Owner
A modern RV contains a lot of built-in electrical devices. And along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry designed to protect the RV and its occupants.
Starting with the absolute basics, your RV's appliances can be powered in three different ways. Appliances may use any of these three power sources, individually or in combination.
- The AC (alternating current) electrical system (generally 115 volts), which runs the air conditioner and some other devices.
- The DC (direct current) system (12 volts), which runs the lights, switches, slides, and thermostats.
- In addition, refrigerators and some appliances run on propane fuel.
AC power comes into the RV from your generator, or from the campground or other outlet you plug it into: a 20-amp, 30-amp, or 50-amp supply. The AC power control panel distributes this power to the appliances and outlets that use AC power, for example the air conditioner. The campground supplies AC power on two different wires: a 240-volt supply is split into two "legs" of 115 volts or so.
Your DC power comes from a battery or batteries (like in the picture above). Whenever the power stored in the batteries gets low, the converter charges it up. The converter uses the higher-voltage AC power that comes in from the campground or generator through the 115-volt AC breaker panel and converts it to 12-volt DC.
The converter that charges your 12-volt batteries is often called an "inverter." "Inverter" is actually the name for another device most RVs have that changes 12-volt DC power to 115-volt AC for use in televisions and such.
The 12-volt output of your converter likely goes through two 30-amp fuses that feed your 12-volt fuse panel. The 12-volt DC power goes to the lights, switches, and slides, and to the controls of many appliances including the heater/air conditioner and refrigerator.
Both electrical systems can develop weakness in many places, especially when being hauled around on trips. Any RV or towed vehicle vibrates in transit. And these vibrations will, at times, shake electrical connections loose, in addition to the wear and tear that wires and appliances go through in normal use. If a wire has its insulation rubbed off, or something inside an appliance shakes loose or burns out, then current can stop flowing in your 12-volt or 115-volt system. Or it can flow into a place where it is not supposed to flow, causing a “short,” and this excessive flow of current can burn out wires and appliances, or in the worst case cause a fire or injury.
Because of these risks, the RV will have breakers or fuses to shut off power if anything goes wrong:
- a set of AC fuses or breakers to interrupt the 115-volt AC power coming from outside the RV if anything goes wrong in the 115-volt system.
- a set of DC fuses or breakers to interrupt the DC power if anything goes wrong in the 12-volt system,
- and also, in many 110-volt receptacles, mini-breakers called GFIs or GFCBs (Ground Fault Indicators or Ground Fault Circuit Breakers), which shut off power to appliances if a wire or circuit is creating a short.
1. Troubleshooting Fuses and Breakers
Troubleshooting often begins, and may well end, with resetting a breaker, replacing a fuse, or resetting a Ground Fault Indicator, and then seeing what happens. Older RVs tend to have fuses; newer ones, breakers.
The fuses and breakers were placed in the system for two major reasons:
- To protect the RV and you the owner from harm if an appliance or other electrical device or an electrical line fails and draws too much current.
- To protect your RV and its electrical appliances and other devices if you plug your RV into an electrical service that is not regulated properly and you get electrical voltages that are too low or too high for your RV and its equipment.
So a breaker or fuse going off is often a sign that something else is wrong: a symptom, not a cause of your problem. The problem may be easy to fix or it may not be. Many appliances have sensors on their mechanical parts that will kick a breaker or blow a fuse rather than allow the appliance to continue running in an unsafe mode.
Note that breakers can go bad themselves; if they trip too many times, they can suffer mechanical stress and lose their ability to stay closed at the current they were designed for.
Ground Fault Indicators
A GFI or Ground Fault Indicator (also called GFCB) is a receptacle with a RESET button on it. It is designed, like a regular circuit breaker, to "throw" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit. Additionally, a GFI will throw itself if even a small amount of current is detected between the "hot" lead and the ground lead of the circuit breaker. These specialty circuit breakers are required in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, places where the user of an appliance could possibly be physically touching ground through plumbing, metal, or flooring and using an appliance that is not insulated properly. They are life-savers.
If you find that several AC appliances at once stop working, or if AC appliances quit working but the air conditioner keeps going, suspect a Ground Fault Indicator. If the GFI detects a problem, the GFI-equipped receptacle will shut itself off, often along with several other "slave" receptacles. Push the RESET button and see if that fixes the problem; if not, disconnect all appliances and plug them back in one by one. The problem may be a single faulty appliance or something else entirely. It's possible (though not the most likely thing) that the GFI receptacle itself is bad and needs replacing.
Don't Upgrade Your Fuses
Don’t try to fix your problems by replacing your fuse or breaker with a higher-rated one. Your camper or RV was designed by professionals with your safety in mind, as well as your convenience. Each electrical device was installed on an electrical line that could safely handle the load.
Putting in a higher-rated fuse or breaker does not fix any problems. If you have a blown fuse, replace it with a fuse of the same rating, NEVER a higher-rated fuse. Because:
- You could cause an electrical fire and destroy your RV.
- You could permanently damage the equipment that is supplied by that fuse.
Always remember, the fuse was designed for a normal operational load. And if it blew, something has changed.
With these warnings in mind, below is a table of fuse colors and what ratings they indicate, in case you go shopping for replacement fuses.
Standard automotive fuses are color-coded according to their current rating; below is a short list for your reference.
Amperage rating (amps)
2. Troubleshooting 12-Volt System Problems
A bad connection in the 12-volt system can cause failures of various appliances, including slides and lights which run on 12-volt power. A 12-volt problem can cause failure of other appliances and systems if they have 12-volt power to their controls. The refrigerator and air conditioner, even running in propane-fueled mode or on AC power, require DC voltage for their logic circuits, and so may fail to operate when there is a DC system problem. Problems in the DC system can also cause lights or appliances to go on and off.
You can so some simple investigation of the 12-volt system yourself, for example:
- Check whether the fuse or breaker is tripped or not.
- Check whether the fuse is loose.
- Check whether the connections to the fuse or breaker box are loose.
- Check whether the connections to the DC batteries are loose (see initial photo).
- Check whether the batteries have enough water. This is the most common easy-to-fix problem. When your battery is overworked or overheated the water tends to evaporate. Add distilled water only.
- Check whether the batteries are charged enough. A multimeter (see below) should show the voltage between the battery terminals between 13.4 and 14.5 volts DC; if not, the battery may be worn out and need replacement, or it may be low on water, or the converter may not be giving it any power.
- Check whether the connections to the converter are loose.
- Check the fuse on the converter. The converter itself has a fuse or two, often on the front.
If you can find nothing wrong here, you may have a bad converter that needs to be replaced; this is a job for the service center, though the adventurous can read a little more in this other article about troubleshooting converters.
Another article of mine has more information about troubleshooting and maintaining your RV's batteries.
Using a Multimeter
A multimeter can measure potential (DC volts, AC volts), electric current (amps), and resistance (ohms).
This device is very useful in the hands of a trained individual, but the novice should not attempt to use all of its functions until they understand what they are trying to measure as well as any dangers involved in making the measurements.
3. Troubleshooting Problems Coming From the Outside Power Supply
The power supply that your parked RV is plugged into can cause problems if it is supplying too much or too little power, fluctuates, is not grounded correctly, or its connector is corroded. Too much current can cause appliances or lights to fail or blow out, and even melt wires or plugs; too little (in an overpopulated campground with an overloaded supply, for example) can cause lamps to dim. Your campground management should be providing safe power at the level they advertise, whether 30 amps or 50 amps; that is their responsibility. You may ask management to investigate, or check with your campground neighbors to see what they are experiencing.
If half your appliances along with your air conditioner are out, one possibility is that half the AC supply from the campground is missing (another possibility is a GFI going off; see part 1 above).
Your on-board or portable generator can also be the cause of problems; it may stop running if your vehicle's gas tank is less than 1/4 full.
Most RVs have a master switch for disconnecting your RV's power during storage. It is a small switch, often near the door on the inside. It will need to be on for you to get power.
Surge Protector, Yes or No?
Everyone in campgrounds seems to be purchasing surge protectors these days. I don't have one. If you buy one, make sure you are purchasing a GOOD one.
Your RV already has surge protection devices: your main AC breaker plus the individual appliance and equipment breakers in your main breaker panel. Like surge protectors, they kick out if the input voltage goes too high.
The only real difference between breakers and a commercial "surge protection" device is that standard breakers are slow to react to voltage changes. A good surge protector should react faster than a breaker to voltage increases and kick out if the voltage exceeds the safe limit of your electrical equipment. Because low input voltages can also harm electrical devices or make them run erratically, most surge protectors will also turn the power off when the voltage is too low.
Now the problem with surge protection devices is that there are no real requirements or specifications for their design. You could purchase one that does not react fast enough to protect your RV equipment. Many of my fellow campers who had surge protectors experienced damage that "fried" their breakers without the surge protector helping at all.
Anyone who buys one of these devices should make sure they get one that has a relatively fast response time, though it's difficult for a camper to tell how fast one surge protector is relative to others.
4. Troubleshooting AC Current Draws
Once again, I recommend that you NOT mess with your RV's 115-volt power system unless you really know what you are doing.
But if your AC breakers or fuses are going off, you can certainly investigate whether your appliances, singly or in combination, are drawing more AC power than you want them to.
Remember that problems with your AC appliances may not come from your 115-volt system at all but from your 12-volt system, because the controls for your fridge and your air conditioner and heater—and other switches here and there—are likely 12-volt.
How Much Current Do Your Appliances Draw?
It's good to know which of your appliances use a lot of current, even when they are working properly. That way you can decide when and where to use your appliances so that the flow of electricity stays within the bounds your system can handle.
The table below lists the approximate MAXIMUM current drawn by common appliances in your RV. Most appliances draw a lot of current during a short period of intense use and less current at other times. These current figures are not exact and vary by manufacturer and model.
Air conditioner (rated 13,500 to 15,000 Btu)
Peak use when starting up
Normal rate after it gets going
Coffee pot (maximum use, while perking coffee)
Once the coffee is brewed, the hot plate under the pot uses much less power, especially if you turn its temperature down.
Less powerful hair dryers might be better for RV use.
Crock pots are useful for cooking in RVs.
Electric frying pan
Hand vacuum (small)
1.5 to 5
Depending on the size, the manufacturer, and the technology.
Water heater (in 120-volt AC mode)
Estimating Maximum Current
If you are unsure what current an appliance draws, use this simple method to calculate the maximum current it will draw when working.
- Look for the appliance's power rating in watts. You may find it on a label on the appliance, or in the owner's manual, or you can contact the manufacturer or look online.
- Divide the number of watts by 120 (the AC voltage), and the result, in amps, is the maximum rating of the appliance for current.
Or you can measure the current an appliance uses with the simple tool below.
Useful Electrical Terms, Abbreviations, and Data
Here is a list of electrical terms and abbreviations, along with a list of color codes for resistors. This information should help the novice be more comfortable with what they are doing when an electrical problem does occur.
Alternating current reverses polarity and flows alternately in both directions in a circuit.
The voltage in your home is AC voltage, in the US typically 115V AC.
The measure of electrical current
An electrical component that stores electrical energy, with a specific storage capacity
A capacitor often has a polarity and must be installed properly. The polarity is generally indicated by a stripe at one end of the part.
A device that opens up or "throws" itself to break a circuit when the current through it exceeds its designed limit. Unlike a fuse, a circuit breaker can be reset when it throws.
Direct current flows constantly in one direction, commonly from a positive lead to a negative lead.
An electrical component that allows current flow in one direction and impedes current flow in the opposite direction.
Current flows from the cathode to the anode. The cathode end is usually marked by a stripe.
A device that is designed to destroy itself or "blow" when the current that passes through it exceeds its designed current limit.
A safety device used to protect electrical devices under adverse conditions. When replacing a fuse, always use one with the same current and voltage rating.
Ground Fault Circuit Breaker
Like a regular circuit breaker, the GFCB "throws" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit.
Ground Fault Indicator
Same as above
The measure of resistance to current flow.
The resistance can be calculated using the formula: R=V/I, or resistance equals voltage divided by current.
The measure of electrical power.
DC power can be calculated using the formula: W=V x I.
The size of a wire chosen in designing electrical circuits, which determines the current it can handle with minimal resistance.
Standard wire sizes or gauges go from 0 to larger numbers. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire size.
One-Letter Electrical Abbreviations
F (upper case)
Farad, the measure of the value of a capacitor. For example, 1 uF means 1 micro-farad.
l (upper case)
Electrical current, measured in amperes. Current can be calculated using the formula I = V/R, that is, current equals voltage divided by resistance.
K (upper case)
One thousand. Example: 1 KW means one kilowatt, one thousand watts.
m (lower case)
One one-thousandth, 0.001. Example: 1 mW means one milliwatt, a thousandth of a watt.
M (upper case)
One million. Example: 1 MW means one megawatt, a million watts.
n (lower case)
One billionth, 0.000000001. Example: 1 nF means one nanofarad, a billionth of a farad.
p (lower case)
One trillionth, 0.000000000001. Example: 1 pF means one picofarad, a trillionth of a farad.
u (lower case)
One millionth, 0.000001. For example: 1 uF means one micro-farad, a millionth of a farad.
V (upper case)
Volt, the measure of electrical potential. Voltage can be calculated using the formula: V = I x R.
W (upper case)
Watt, the measure of electrical power.
Resistor Values and Colors
Gold (as the fourth band)
1% tolerance on the value
Silver (as the fourth band)
5% tolerance on the value
No color (as the fourth band)
10% tolerance on the value
Good Luck Now
The hundreds of comments below have explored just about everything that can go wrong with an RV's electrical system. Add your own questions and comments. But please, again, do not mess with any wiring unless you are sure of what you are doing. Electricity can kill.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
Whenever the 120vp0wer is disconnected from my fifth wheel, the battery dies in a week or so. I have checked for shorts and even replaced the converter. Any Ideas?
Your fifth-wheel camper's battery is charged by your built-in Converter. This Converter runs on your 120-VAC and if you disconnect from the campsites external power, of course, your Converter will not operate.
So, realizing this, you need to have that 120-VAC hooked up regularly for these power systems to operate for you.
While hooking up a fan outside our RV, I inadvertently made contact between a plug and metal. Now, have no 120 power to front half(bedroom and bathroom) outlets. I have narrowed it to a single circuit, and it sounds like a GFCI has tripped, but I can't find the GFCI itself. Any help?
Your GFCI Master receptacle will normally be in your bathroom or over the kitchen counter area.
And, your outside receptacles should definitely be on a GFCI circuit.
You should also reset all of your breakers to make sure they are all fully engaged.
Often they will "kick out" but not throw the lever all of the way. So, it's a simple thing to do.
The air conditioner in my RV doesn’t work well. My toaster won’t brown the toast, even after seven minutes, and my microwave takes four mins to heat a small coffee. I’m sure the campground circuit is overloaded as I’m not getting the full 30 amps. Everyone in the campground is having the same issues. Is this low amperage damaging my camper?
If you're not getting 110-VAC to your RV, and when you operate an appliance it loads down the voltage, then you could be damaging your appliances or other electrical equipment.
The campground must provide adequate power to everyone's campsite, or they should tell their campers that they need to leave because their power source is dangerously low.
This is a problem for the campground, and if they don't accept responsibility for any damages, then I wouldn't go there again.Helpful 15
I had no power in my trailer at all. The fridge stopped running, and nothing would work. I checked all breakers and fuses, and all were good. Hooked up booster cables from my truck to the trailer battery and everything was working. I was told it was for sure a bad converter in the trailer. I purchased a new one and changed it out, and still, nothing changed, and I had no power. Is there a chance all I have is a bad battery and would that cause nothing at all to work in my trailer?
From your symptoms, I would almost bet that your trailer battery is either bad or dry. And it's the logical reason why your Converter cannot charge it. Remember to reset your Converter when you get your battery repaired.
I am trying to figure out a problem with a WFCO 8955. It is connected to a 120VAC 30A service and the voltage checks good at around 122VAC. I am not getting any 12VDC power until I turn the breaker off to the unit, and I get over 13VDC for several seconds. What would cause this?
I have a 2009 Holiday Rambler and none of my electrical plugs work nor does the tv come on. I am also trying to understand which way to activate the battery cut out switch (push button up or down). It's not clear in the manual. Any suggestions?
You should check out the RV's Power control module. It operates on 12-VDC from your COACH batteries. Your batteries could be either bad or not being charged by your Converter.
Your 2-way Fridge control panel also runs on 12-VDC and just flip the switch to see if the display lights up or not.
I have a 2016 travel trailer and the lights over the dining table and the recliners, both on the same 15A fuse, are blowing it occasionally. When it does the lights over the recliners are completely off, but the ones over the dining table come on very dimly. When I replace the fuse, with the same size, both sets of lights work fine. What's up?
I just bought a 2001 Forest River Reflection motorhome. I have not had an issue with the slide out until this morning. It will not slide back in, and we are not hearing any kind of clicking it anything when we try the switch. We have checked a lot of things but can not find the problem. What could it be?
First of all, you should check if there is a blown a fuse in your 12-VDC fuse panel, because the slide operates on your coach battery.
If the fuse for the slide isn't blown and there is voltage out of the fuse box, pin for the slide, then check if there is voltage on the slide motor when you operate the switch for the slide but the motor doesn't turn or click then your slide motor has a problem.
I would suspect the fuse in the fuse panel as your culprit or your coach battery voltage. When is the last time you checked the water in your coach batteries, how old are your coach batteries, and what is the voltage reading across your coach battery terminals? Hopefully one of these things is your real problem.
I was camping and had a surge protector on, but lightning hit the campground. Now, I have no AC. What does the E1 code mean?
You did not provide a lot of information, but I can tell you what to check when you have lightning hits.
1- Start at the source. Have the campground send someone down to verify that your campsite power box breakers and wiring is still functional, and you haven't lost one side of your 220-VAC.
2- If the campsite is OK and the problem still exists then bypass your Surge protector and make sure it has not been damaged.
3- I the SP is OK, then reconnect it, and check that your cabling and internal wiring from the external connector and to the breaker box is Ok by checking the voltage at the input of ALL of your Breakers.
I suspect that you have lost 1/2 of your 220-VAC to your AC.
2 out of 6 of my main RV lights are working. They are all on the same light switch, and the bulbs are all working. What could be the problem?
Which lights? Your interior lights? Your exterior Running lights? We are talking about an RV, Right?
Well, assuming that you're talking about an RV and a series of the interior lights that are wired to a single ON/OFF switch, I would check the following;
1- Your interior lights operate on your 12-VDC from your COACH battery.
2- The Coach battery is kept charged by your built-in Converter (Charger), which in turn is powered by your 110-VAC.
3- Use a multimeter and check the voltage across the battery terminals. The voltage should be; 1- approximately 14.5 VDC if it is being charged, approximately 13.5 VDC if the battery is fully charged, and 12.5 VDC if the battery is not charged.
I have a new Control board, converter, t-stat and wire for my RV. My t-stat works because I now get power to control board 14.5v and when I turn on cooling it gets power there, and when turned off it has no power same with the fan. But is my freeze sensor suppose to have 14.5v to both wires? Any other thoughts? Could the new board is broken?
I am not sure what model you have or how they wired it internally, but I do know that a lot of electrical systems will have power applied to a component, (such as your freeze sensor) and will switch the ground onto and off of the component. When you check the component, because the ground is not connected, it will show the voltage (14.5 VDC??) on both wires. But, as I said, I don't know if the freeze sensor is a switch that closes or one that Opens when activated.
If your AC is a name brand such as Dometic, you can contact their customer service and ask their technicians for help.
Also, please try to clarify if the voltage is there on the AC and the fan, but the AC is not working.
Is there more than 2 fuse boxes in a 2012 winnebago, and what would trip the fuses?
Typically Yes, there will be a FUSE box in your motorhome for the Engine, and the will be another one for the internal 120VDC accessories. By the way, you need to understand the difference between FUSES and BREAKERS. Breakers are for your 110-VAC power accessories, while Fuses are for your 12-VDC powered accessories. Anyway, the engine fuse box will be in the engine compartment or under the dash while the interior fuse panels can be placed pretty much anywhere it was convenient for them to install it.
I have a 17 Thor ACE Class A. I have it on 50a shore power at home. I had the battery disconnect in disconnect mode, and now my chassis battery is dead. I trickle charged the chassis battery, and it stated fully charged in about an hour. I disconnected it and when I came home that day the battery was again fully discharged. I placed the battery disconnect switch to use, and it did not charge the chassis battery. Do you have any suggestions?
Most motorhomes have two power disconnect switches; one for your CHASSIS Battery (commonly labeled MAIN and the other for your COACH batteries (commonly labeled AUX).
Now .... the Chassis battery should never discharge so fast unless you have something like your; stereo, Awning, Power Step, or other Dash electronic devices turned ON and drawing current.
On the other hand, if you're talking about your COACH batteries, they will not discharge so quickly for the same reason, but interior lights or other electrical device drawing a lot of current.
Either way, check all of your batteries for proper water levels and the manufacture dates to make sure they are still Good.
My water heater no longer makes hot water. Can it be a fuse?
The water heater in your Rv runs on 110-VAC when you are plugged in at a campsite, and it also runs on Propane when 110-VAC is not available.
In both modes, the control board in your Water heater uses 12-VDC from your COACH batteries.
So, first check if your water heater works in one or both of these modes. If it only works on Propane, then check your breaker for your water heater. If it doesn't work in either mode, then check the fuse for the water heater on your interior 12-VDC fuse panel.
And be aware that if you do not have any water coming into your water heater, then the controller will not allow the heater elements to heat as a safety measure.
The lights on my '09 Puma 26fbss keep going out then coming back on. They flicker a few times before they come back on. What do you think the problem might be?
If you're talking about the interior lights, then you should understand that your coach battery powers them. If the battery is discharged, then the converter will turn on if the RV is plugged into external power and you attempt to charge the battery. If the battery is very low, the converter may have to cycle several times until the dead battery has enough charge so the converter can operate properly. In hindsight, you should always use a good, relatively new deep-discharge battery for the coach and keep it charged. When it is not in use, and your RV has a cutoff switch then use it to remove any of your equipment from the battery so it will not discharge when not in use.
I have a 2011 Lance 2185 travel trailer where the fuse for the fridge and rear interior lights keeps blowing even after replacing it. It does have a solar panel that trickle charges the batteries. Any suggestions?
Neither your Fridge (control panel) nor your interior lights draw very much current so normally they would not be blowing your 12-VDC fuse.
Your solar charger should not be a cause of your problem as they deliver very low power to your battery.
While traveling, your fridge to switch over to propane, normally, and back to 12-VDC when you plug in at a campsite. It's a long shot, but you could be getting a "surge" on your 12-VDC line to the fridge when it switches over from propane operation. If this were the case, it could be that your COACH battery is slowly losing its charge while you travel, and when the load changes on a "low" battery, there could be a higher current drawn momentarily.
So, the best suggestion I could give you with these symptoms is to check your Coach battery; does it have water, is it over 3-4 years old, and does it take and hold a full charge?
Does the engine battery power the AC and fridge in the room?
No. In a motorhome, the 12-VDC for the Fridge and for the temperature control panel comes from the motorhome's COACH batteries.
I have a 2013 Starcraft trailer. When I unplugged the shore connection I realized that none of the lights or appliances (e.g microwave) were working. My battery is charged up. All circuit breakers and fuses seem to be okay. Any ideas?
Your appliances in your camper run on 110-VAC, so when you disconnected the shore power it and your other 110-VAC appliances should NOT WORK.
But, your interior lights operate on your 12-VDC battery. And, the battery will run down if it is not fully charged. The Converter keeps your battery charged.
So, check the water level in your camper battery and make sure it is fully charged, under load.
All electrical power (lights and outlets) have stopped working in our slide- out RV. The fuses and breakers have been checked. What would be our next step?
Check that your converter is fully charging your RV coach battery. If you measure the voltage across the battery and it is LOW (only around 12-5 VDC) then check that the battery has water and is taking charge from your Converter. This could be the problem with your lights.
As to the outlets, first check if they are slave receptacles to your MASTER GFCI and if they are, does your GFCI need resetting? This is a common problem for many RV owners; to forget that their coach battery(s) need to be checked regularly.
I just plugged in a small electric heater, and the power went out. I flipped all the switches on the breaker box, and the power came back on to everything but three outlets. Now, there are only two outlets that work. Why won't those outlets work now?
It is likely that you plugged your heater into a GFI receptacle and probably, the initial surge current kicked the breaker.
First, reset your "master GFI" receptacle, and that should get your power problem fixed.
Second, never use a high current (wattage) portable heater. Most people make sure they get one that is safe form; tipping over, causing fires, and drawing excess current.
Third, Never plug a heater into a receptacle that is protected on a GFI circuit.
Some of the electrical wiring for a teardrop trailer is grounded to the trailer chassis, will the 12 volt LED lights and other things only work if the trailer is hooked up to the truck?
Your question is confusing, but if you're asking "IF a teardrop trailer is grounded to the trailer chassis ....." then my answer is;
Your trailer uses your onboard battery to power all of your 12-VDC accessories including the LED lights, and the negative wire is hooked to the chassis for a good ground connection.
And, if you're operating only when the tow truck is hooked up then your battery may be dead. So, check it out; does it have water in it, are the cable connections tights, and do you have a built-in Converter in your trailer that keeps the trailer battery charged when you are plugged into external 110-VAC?
Check these things for the source of your problem.
I am at an event park. My trailer is a 26-ft. Jayco. The floor is vibrating. What is causing this?
Well, the only thing in your camper with a motor would be your water pump. Check if your water tank is empty if your water pump is running constantly trying to maintain pressure.
I suspect this is your problem, so turn your water pump off to see if the vibration goes away.
The air conditioner and microwave of my RV do not work with the generator running, but it works fine on the campground power. I have checked all of the breakers (including the generator) and they all seem ok. What might the problem be?
You did not mention the type of generator or the year and model of your RV, but I can say a few things that could be causes of your problem.
First of all, your microwave, if it is a convection model can draw a lot of AC Current the same as your Air Conditioner can.
Then your generator does not operate under NO LOAD conditions, but will typically operate better when a load is applied. In fact, the generator installed in a motorhome is designed to handle the total load of all of the equipment in the RV.
With this said, and from your statement that everything operates properly on Shore power, I have to say that your generator needs to be serviced by a certified tech.
But, before you do this you can do a few things yourself that should be done on a regular basis;
1- change out the generators fuel filter and fuel pump.
2- change out the generator's air filter
And, of course, you have plenty of gas right? And, you know that if you get below 1/4-tank, your generator fuel line will not get any gas from the tank, right?
We returned home from a camping trip, and I noticed the awning would not roll out, the awning led light strip would not turn on and the door porch light would not turn on either. Everything worked great at the campground. I'm a long way from the dealership, can you help me?
All of these items run on your RV battery.
So, one cause could be that your RV engine battery is dead.
More likely though is the possibility that you have turned OFF your RV's "MAIN" switch which would turn OFF power to these accessories. This switch is normally used when you are storing your RV and don't want the engine battery to be drained by these accessories.
I didn’t have power to the thermostat. I pulled out the converter replaced it, and while it was out, I ran DC power to my thermostat and a new ground. Thermostat now has power, but still nothing. So I pulled the thermostat replaced it and ran straight to the control box with new wire. Still nothing, I put a multimeter on the control part of the neg and positive on the cooling and get negative 5.12 MV. I’ve also jumped the control box bypassing the thermostat, and the A/C kicks on. What is the problem here?
Your trouble-shooting information is interesting. But if your A/C kicked ON when you bypassed the control panel and if you already replaced the control panel with a new one then your problem must be with your 12-VDC battery and/or Converter which keeps the battery charged. So, is the battery good? Does it have water in it? Is it fully charged, is the Converter running? Check these things out on the net.
On my RV, I don’t have Neg 12VDC coming in where I should just positive. How do I get the Neg 12VDC in the Neg 12VDC spot from the thermostat to the control? I only have positive.
There is no neg 12-VDC in an RV, so I assume you mean the 12-VDC COMMON wire? And measuring from this wire to your RV ground you should NOT have any voltage measurement. If you do, this could be problematic and unsafe.
If you have a voltage from the NEG (DC common) wire to ground, then check that the large Ground wire on your battery NEG terminal is tightly connected to chassis ground. IF not, this could be your problem.
We have a 2018 Reflection Rv. I turned the refrigerator off, and it is still running. What do I do now?
You did not give me enough information, but consider this:
1- If your fridge is a 2-way that runs on propane or 110-VAC then you need to check if it switched over to propane? If you pressed the ON/OFF switch though, it should have definitely turned OFF.
2- If you have a "household" fridge then your Rv could be set up with an Inverter that runs off of its own battery. The battery is kept charged by your RV's Converter (charger), so check that you are not still hooked up to your campsite 110-VAC and the charger/inverter system isn't getting power.
I have a 2018 Coachmen Ultralight Freedom Express. One USB outlet (with two USB receptacles) is not working. All other USB outlets throughout the trailer work fine. I am also an engineer and was wondering if you know a way to isolate this problem. Is there a central circuit board that supplies power to all of the USB outlets in an RV like mine? Or is the USB power generation distributed with individual circuit boards?
Actually, running multiple USB connectors off of one cable is common using the circuitry on the panel to sync the two signals onto one cable. The main limiting technology is how much current you can provide for driving multiple USB devices off of one driver/cable.
There should be a main circuit board that will probably operate off of your COACH 12-VDC for power, and it would have multiple USB output connectors for your USB panels. As to the one panel with two connectors, I suspect that if you pull the cover, it will have a single cable driving each of the two connectors, and the circuitry could be bad.
My RV was plugged in, and everything was working, but now the fridge and A/C are not getting electric. I checked all breakers and fuses already. What could it be?
If your Fridge is a 2-way, then it and your temperature control panel use 12-VDC. So, check your coach battery and make sure it has water in it, and that it is fully charged.
If not, then these appliances will not operate properly.Helpful 9
I have a 2002 Holiday Rambler that lost power to the water heater, washer/dryer, and both AC units. This happened after I disconnected one house battery to check the water level. Do you have any thoughts?
In case you forgot your 12-VDC powers the temperature control panel which is probably the problem with your AC units. And if your house (coach) batteries are 6-volt and not 12-volt, then you would not have 12-VDC. The water heater runs on 12-VDC, and your washer/dryer runs on 110-VAC, so I can't explain why it doesn't run.
I would first work on getting my 12-VDC system and batteries hooked up properly and the battery converter combination charging the batteries properly. Then I would see what else might not be working.Helpful 5
We purchased a one yr old Mercedes motorhome with 6000 miles on it from an RV dealer. We are on our first trip to Yellowstone from WV and fridge quit. We had it plugged in at home, and the fridge was extremely cold. While driving, it showed it was running on gas, and the light was not flashing, so we assumed it was ok. When we stopped to eat, the temperature inside the fridge was 60. It works when plugged into electric. Any idea of what we can try? It is evening now, and nowhere is open.
When you are traveling and are not plugged into 110-VAC, your 2-way Fridge will operate on propane, but it must have 12-VDC from your COACH battery, which is charged only when you are plugged into 110-VAC.
So, you should check that COACH battery for adequate water level, and always keep your RV plugged into 110-VAC when you are parked at a campsite. This way the COACH battery will have a full charge and easily keep your Fridge and other 12-VDC accessories running for a full day and night.
I believe this will take care of your problem. When you are traveling, so keep that COACH battery charged before you take off.Helpful 5
I have a 2001 Winn. Spirit Itasco. Last night my generator shut off and when I restarted it nothing worked. The fuses are all good, and no breaker was tripped.. Is there a reset button or something I could do?
When your Power Control Panel sensed that your generator was providing power then it should have switched your Power Transfer switch to the generator.
So, you need to check the electrical part of your generator to see if it is actually putting out electricity. You'll have to remove the cover to do this.
I have a 2000 Fleetwood Pace Arrow. Everything works on the unit, and I don't have any electrical issues. I notice a clicking coming from under the Hood ONLY when I park the unit, and it is not connected to an external power source. When I do plug it in at the Campground, the clicking stops. I am told this is draining my batteries and will eventually burn up my solenoid. Do you know what is causing this and if so, is it an expensive repair?
Your motorhome has two 12-VDC systems, and the engine battery powers the engine and its accessories the same as an automobile. But, it also powers the step, the power awning, the exterior spotlights and running lights.
The external power source is not connected to any of these systems and should NOT affect anything under the hood.
When do you park your RV do you also use your SHUTOFF switches to turn ON power to your AUX equipment and turn OFF power to your MAIN equipment? Check these things out.
I have a 1999 dutchman camper pull behind. When I plug my 12-volt battery up, the 4 running lights light up, but the one on the back stays off. I know these should only be on when hooked to your vehicle and the parking lights are on. Do you have any ideas on this problem?
As you probably know, your Dutchman camper battery is only for powering your camper's interior 12-VDC systems and appliances, and should not be wired to your camper's running lights.
Being this old, You should check the following potential problems;
1- The GROUND wire for your battery and the GROUND wire from your tow connector should both be firmly connected to your camper's chassis, and the connections should not be rusty or loose.
2- the HOT wire for your running lights of your camper should be wired to the connections shown on a standard wiring chart for the specific type of connector you are using (4-wire, 5-wire, or 6-wire). Check this article for the proper connector wiring;https://axleaddict.com/rvs/RV-Towing-and-Electrica...
I have a 1995 Fleetwood Flair Class A. The lights in the galley, the bedroom, the bathroom, the refrigerator, the fresh water pump, the hood fan and the hood light all stopped working. I thought it might be the converter, so I upgraded from my Magnetek to a Boondocker which went in easily, however, it did not fix the problem. I checked my circuit breakers and DC fuses again and found that two of the wires coming from the DC fuse panel we're not hot. Do you have any idea what this could be?
First of all, what you are describing is a total loss of 12-VDC into the RV from the COACH battery(s). I recommend the following;
1- Check that you have your RV's AUX switch turned ON.
2- Check that your converter (charger) is trying to charge your battery. This should be indicated by measuring around 14.5 volts across the battery terminals if charging, or around 13.5 volts if they are fully charged (measuring around 12.5-VDC means the battery is not charged.).
3- Measure that you have the same DC voltage across the input wires of your DC fuse panel.
4- Check that the one or two 30-AMP input fuses on your DC fuse panel are not blown.
After all of this, you should have DC voltage to some of the accessories that you listed.
We have a 2009 Newmar Ventana and nowhere can we find a wiring schematic. The bedroom slide has 3 outlets, 2 on side walls, and 1 under the bed to power an air mattress. All three outlets are dead. I have checked breakers & gfi. How can I further troubleshoot my RV's electrical problem?
The first thing for you to do is to check if your Power Control panel is displaying that you have 50-Amps service and that all of the green lights are on indicating that your 220-VAC is allocated to everything.
Also, I am assuming that you have no AC power to anything else either.
I have a 1999 Jayco Eagle. All electric was good when plugged into house GFCI 20amp receptacle then the GFCI failed would not reset. I replaced the GFCI, and the supply cord with new ones, a prong on the cord seemed to be loose. Now with all the breakers including the main, every time I plug in the power supply cord the GFCI trips, could the cause be a bad main breaker in my camper?
This problem happens for a lot of people. As you know the GFCI Master receptacle is designed to sense if there is any current leakage between the COMMON wire and the GROUND wire. Often, because your RV is not tied to a good ground stake, the extra length of wire in your RV external power cord will allow a certain amount of this leakage so that if you plug it into a GFCI at your house, the GFCI will "kick OFF." I had this problem at my house, and I had to add an extension cord and plug the Rv into a non-GFCI receptacle on my house.
Try this, and I suspect your problem will go away.
We have a 1988 Terry Resort. The fridge will turn on when the trailer is plugged into electricity, but we have no outlets, lights or other appliances working. There are no breaker or fuse problems. The fridge starts working when the trailer is plugged in, but nothing else will. Does this sound like a converter issue?
Actually, NO! Your Converter keeps your battery charged, but your symptoms are that you have no 110-VAC input.
Check your campsite power box and make sure the breakers are turned ON and then check your external power cable connections to make sure they are clean and not oxidized.
If your cable connections are good, then get a multimeter and check if you have power to your Breaker box.
I have a 1999 Trail-lite travel trailer. I am not getting a 12V new battery. None of the lights, monitor panel, pump, Fridge or jack work. No 12v at the power panel. It seems like there is a fuse or open wire in line from the battery to pwr panel. It is the same with or without A/C hooked up, but when it is connected to the A/C, the microwave and the outlets don't work. What do I do?
First, I assume you have a built-in Converter (charger) that runs on your 110-VAC when hooked up to external power.
If you do then your battery is kept charged by the Converter and all of the equipment you mentioned the run of this battery voltage.
So, you need to check that your battery is being charged by using a multimeter across the battery terminals.
If you read around 14.5 VDC, then the Converter is trying to charge a dead battery. If you read around 13,5-VDC, then the battery is charged, and the Converter is in the trickle charge mode. If you are reading below 13.0-VDC, then the battery is not being charged.
I have a 2006 Georgie Boy class A. We camped this weekend with no problems. When we pulled out, I heard an alarm after unplugging. I noticed that the radio wouldn't turn on. Then I saw that the fridge was off, I checked my status panel, water pump, and water heater. All were without power. I fired up the onboard generator, and still no power. Once I got home, I plugged into my 50 amp service, and everything came on fine. Any idea what this could be?
The RV radio should operate on your engine battery and has nothing to do with the COACH 12-VDC system.
The Water Heater runs on either propane or 110-VAC, and you should have switched over to propane when you unplugged.
The fridge's control circuit board, your water pump, your AC Power Control Panel and your interior lights run on your 12-VDC COACH battery.
As to your generator, when you started it, the power control panel (which operate on your COACh battery.
So, I would get that battery checked for water, and that it takes charge, so that all of those things I mentioned can work properly.
On my Class C travel van, there are two small LED lights mounted above the van doors to illuminate entry. They both stay on all the time and don’t power off when the doors shut as designed to do. How do I troubleshoot this?
On every RV I have seen, the over-the-door external light was controlled by a manually operated switch mounted on the wall just inside the door, and not by the door itself. Typically there is a magnetic switch on the door that controls your power step and a light under the step, if you have one, but this is a separate light from the over-the-door light, which people usually want to keep ON while they are outside. This light stays on as long as your power step is extended.
As we are driving we have lost all electrical power to all of our lights and gauges. What fuse or relay could be dead?
Your problem will be in your Chassis electrical system and not your Coach electrical system.
Depending on your RV manufacturer you will have a fuse panel under the dash probably on one of the fenders for easy access. And with some, there will be another fuse panel under the dash.
I turn off the breaker to my water heater when my A/C is running to keep from throwing the 30 amp breaker in the campground. When I turn the water heater breaker on to heat the water and then turn it off after heated, the lights will go out until I reset the main leaving it off for a couple of minutes. Can you help me understand why this is happening?
RV's with only a 30-Amp Service were common up until manufacturers went to adding so much equipment that they had to increase the service to 50-Amps.
In older RV's the Air Conditioners will draw higher currents as the Compressor starts up, and then it drops down as the Air operates, until it reaches temperature and the Compressor kicks out. Then the cycle starts again.
Add to this the added current of all the equipment you have plugged into the receptacles, and you can be near your main breaker limit of 30-Amps.
As to your lights, they operate on your Coach batteries which are kept charged by your Converter(Charger).
But, if your lights are going out this means that your Coach battery is not charged, and your lights and other DC-Voltage equipment are operating directly on your Converter.
You need to check out your Coach batteries and make sure they are taking charge. Do they have water, how old are they, and what is the voltage across the battery terminals.
The problem is our 2007 Coachman Freelander cabin battery drains while in storage. AAA jumps truck easily so we bought a jump start battery kit like AAA uses. I think the disconnect switch in the coach still lets the batteries get drained or could it be something else? The radio/ light cannot shut off in the cab could that be what is draining all 3 batteries, do you have any advice or ideas?
Your Freelander's electrical systems are divided similarly to any other motorhome. You have that standard engine battery, that would provide power to your dash equipment such as your radio and cab lights.
On the other hand, you have those (2?) COACH batteries that power your actual camper interior equipment.
Normally a motorhome will have a CUT-OFF switch for both of these batteries, that are there for just what you mentioned, when you put your RV in storage.
But, I recommend two things that should be done by the owner, and many other RV owners agree.
First, when my motorhome is in storage, I visit it once a month and run the engine for 30-minutes or so, just to make sure the engine battery is fully charged.
Secondly, my motorhome has a small Solar trickle charger mounted on the roof, that keeps my COACH batteries charged, even while in storage.
These two personal service tasks takes care of any current drawn by items in the two electrical systems that are not included on the Cut-Off switches.
I know of one fellow camper who purchased two small Solar chargers designed for automobiles. They had suction cups on them, and he just stuck them to his windshield and connected one to his engine battery and one to his Coach battery. It was a low-cost solution for when his motorhome was in storage.
I'm using an extension cord plugged into a normal household outlet, then connected to my RV power cord plugged into the 30a, 125v inlet on my popup camper. I realize this won't give me much power, but here's the thing: It's giving me no power. Using a simple tester, I read power in the extension cord, and the RV cord plugged into the 30a inlet, but nothing is coming out from the inlet inside the camper. I've switched out the 30a inlet and still nothing. Do you have any ideas?
Well, first of all, your standard RV 300-Amp input connector is set up for two 110-VAC lines. This way you have 220-VAC for an Air Conditioner for instance.
Your problem could be as simple as the fact that your extension cord is connected to the wrong side of the 220-VAC connector for your RV.
Check this as your potential problem. And you should purchase a standard 110-VAC (15-Amp) to 30-Amp adapter as this would probably fix your problem.
The fridge and A/C in my camper work fine, but not my interior or exterior lights. What could cause that?
Not very much data to react to, here. IF your RV is a motorhome, your exterior lights operate on your engine battery. But if your Rv is a trailer, they operate on your Coach battery.
So, as you probably know, your interior lights operate on your COACH battery voltage, the same as with your temperature control panel and your Fridge control panel.
First, I would check if my battery(s) is charged and your Converter is operating properly.
If they are OK, then you should check your DC Fuse Panel for a blown fuse.
My RV batteries are good but I can't start the RV because there is no power. Then this morning it started what could be the problem?
Do you have a small solar trickle charger on your roof that keeps your engine battery charged? Many motorhomes do these days. Regardless, check your engine battery for low water level? And then check that your engine battery connections are tight and in good condition.
The steps on my 2001 Holiday Rambler motorhome will not retract. Any suggestions?
Your power entrance steps are powered by your engine battery, and there are several things that can affect the operation, so check these:
1- Starting and stopping your engine will make the step cycle in and out, does it?
2- There is a magnet on your entrance door that activates a micro-switch mounted on your door frame, opening and closing the door will cycle the door, does it?
3- If these two things do not work, then you could have a problem with the step electro-mechanical part of your step.
This is made up of three parts: 1- gear box, 2- motor, 3- logic module.
To check these, do the following;
A-unplug the cable to the control module and see if the steps will move any; if they do not, then your gear box is probably jammed. If they do move, then the control module is probably the culprit.
You can drop the whole assembly and check each of the mechanical sections relatively easily while the control module cannot be tested easily other than to replace it.
In fact, you can look on the web, specifically Amazon, and order replacements for the three sections.
I tried to run a small coffee pot off my 12-Volt system through an inverter plugged into the round 12-Volt plugin and blew a fuse. I’ve checked every fuse but all look ok. What else can I check? The plugin and radio are not working but the lights still do.
Some of these 12-Volt receptacles in RV's and in automobiles are only rated at 1-Amp or 2-Amp. They are there for small electronic devices and not for high current usage.
Also, Inverters are not 100% efficient an will allow even lower levels of current to the appliance used.
You should check your Inverter for a blown fuse on it first. It may have been damaged before the 12-Volt receptacle went bad.
Then pull the 12-Volt receptacle from the wall and check if the wiring insulation has melted. This could be a dangerous situation if it has.
At this point, it comes down to using a multimeter and check ing if there is 12-Volts at the receptacle, then if not, measuring the voltage at the output terminals of your 12-Volt panel.
The available and unused slots on my RV converter only indicate the same 9.2 volts. Is the converter done?
To see if these unused outputs are functioning, they need to have a load applied. Otherwise, they are just "floating' and could display anything as a reading.
My fuses on the DC panel are hot in my 2001 Bounder RV. It is mostly fused in the #1 spot, and as I follow it across the row of fuses the next two are warm, then last five spots are normal (not hot). I have checked all the fuses; they are not broke, I have tightened every screw (none were loose). There was some arcing between #1 and #2 fuses. They were a little loose, so I squeezed the connection part (what you put the fuse in) fixing the arcing. Why are the fuzes hot and how do I fix it?
First things first; Arcing between fuses in a panel is very dangerous. That means there was a short to ground on one of the voltage lines. So get a good light and a magnifier glass and thoroughly inspect the board for any loose debris that might be there.
Then, find out what these particular HOT fuses are for and make sure each one has the right sized fuse in the holder.
Third, Measure the DC-Voltage on each fuse and it MUST be only around 13.5 to 14.5 Volts to ground.
Remember, those fuses are designed to blow when the current load on each line is too high and if you have HOT fuses your systems are not designed for this to be the case.
Once you know you have the right value fuses in each holder then you'll know you're safe and you can see about your DC-Voltage level situation.
The GFCI in my RV bathroom tripped. It would not reset. I checked the breakers and none had tripped. However, when I flip the double 15 amp breaker off the GFCI stays reset. Is this a converter problem. Would low water level in the batteries cause the GFCI in my RV's bathroom to trip? I double checked the line and load wires on the GFCI to make sure I connected them correctly and also made sure the ground wire was connected. I'm at my wit's end here and no children that are mechanically or electrically savvy.
We have a 1996 Lance Legend 500 truck camper that has been in storage for nine months. Everything worked when we put it into storage. Now, the fridge, freezer, radio, gas detector, tanks level gauge and range hood fan won't work. Both gas tanks are empty, as we wanted them so for storing. The battery appears to be ok. We was also plugged into our generator. Unfortunately, we can't move our camper to mains, as our truck was stolen. Do you have any troubleshooting ideas?
All of the equipment you listed run on your camper's 12-VDC battery. Check that it is charged and has water in it. With your camper being a 1996 model, I don't know if it has a built-in charger for the battery. It should have one.
But you need to make sure the battery is fully charged for this equipment to operate.
Second, there is a fuse panel for your 12-VDC equipment so you should check that none of these are blown.
I have a Fleetwood Terry 29 Ft 5th wheel. Both the heater and A/C stopped working. I assumed the thermostat was the problem, and replaced it with the same Coleman model. I had 12V to the thermostat, and the fuse is good. Still, both don't work. All other systems and appliances work. I had the furnace igniter board checked out, and it was good. The only other thing I noticed is the 12V lights seem to be flickering slightly when connected to 115V. What do I do?
I plugged my trailer into the house to cool down fridge for the trip tomorrow. It wouldn't come on. I found a blown fuse, disconnected it from the house, and tried running on 12V battery and propane ( which we did just a couple of weeks ago). Immediately blown a fuse. Lights in kitchen area won't run, but the microwave is on. Why does the fuse keep blowing?
Well, the microwave operates on 110-VAC, so you must have your trailer plugged into 110-VAC somewhere?
Your fridge must have 12-VDC for its control circuit board, even when running on Propane.
My first guess is that the cable that you used to connect to your home was not one that is properly wired for such, and that you plugged it into a standard house receptacle??? If you use the proper cables and adapters, you can do this, but if they are wired wrong, you can blow a fuse and even damage your trailer equipment.
So, I recommend that you get your cableing right first then see what your true symptoms are of everything doesn't work for you.
What is wrong with my RV when the lights in the bedroom keep tripping the reset button? Everything else works fine.
Your interior lights operate on your 12-VDC coach batteries.
And, if your coach battery is good, and fully charged, the lights should NEVER draw enough current to trip a Breaker.
why does my RV's breaker trip when I'm plugged into the house for power? It does not trip the house breaker. I'm using the same power chord I usually run the RV off my Generator while camping, and it never trips?
Not sure which breaker you're talking about, so I assume you're talking about your AC MAIN breaker.
And, considering that you say your RV power works appropriately when you are camping and using your generator, I would have to say that the only new variable you have introduced is the wiring of your HOUSE receptacle.
So, you need to check that your house receptacle is wired properly, especially the GROUND and COMMON wires.
on a recent trip, we stayed in a campground with full connections for our travel trailer. the first day there, the power converter blew up. (I am a master electrician) So I replaced the power converter and battery, confirmed that I had 12 VDC going to the battery to charge it. However, within a day the battery was completely dead again even while plugged into 120 Vac. Where should I look next?
The first thing I would do is make sure I have a charging voltage on the battery of 13.5-VDC or higher across the battery terminals. If this is so, then I would next suspect that some 12-VDC appliance (possibly your Inverter?) is drawing excessive current that the Converter cannot handle.
These are the most likely causes of your problem, and I recommend that you purchase a good Surge Protector to put in series with your campsite power and your trailer to avoid future damage from poorly run campground power systems.
We have a 2018 Coachmen Catalina, the awning LED lights and blue LED lights quit working. We checked all the fuses they were good. What should we check next?
Typically, these LED string lights operate (via an adapter) on 110-VAC. And they are often plugged into your external GFCI receptacle. So, I would first check my Master GFCI inside my RV to see if it has "Kicked off". If these lights are plugged in somewhere else, then you need to trace the wiring to find where it is plugged in.
Also, make sure your RV's 12-VDC Shut-Down switch is in the right position because some of these LED light strings are plugged into 12-VDC somewhere.
We RV full-time. We had a wire burn. How do we find a certified electrician who will come to us?
The largest certification org. for trained RV technicians that I would recommend is RVDA-RVIA. You can find them on the web and they will be able to inform you of the nearest certified tech.
I'm storing our 30AMP RV to 120V storage facility outlet via a 15 AMP adapter. The breakers keep tripping. Shore power source confirms 120V. I flipped the 30AMP rig breaker off, then back on and it seemed to resolve the breaker popping issue. However, the inside voltmeter still descends back to ~102V and I am concerned. Do you have any suggestions?
The first thing I would do is check the storage facility power and make sure it truly is 120-VAC; because your symptoms suggest that your storage facility power is your problem. This voltage should not drop when a load is applied. And, I do suggest that you use a standard RV adapter to connect from your RV power cord to your storage facility power source. Remember, that 30-AMP cable is wired for 220-VAC, and your adapter must be designed to connect only one half of this to your source.
I have lost power to lighting and air in my RV. I have checked everything, but I haven't found anything. The outlets work, though. What should I check now?
Your symptoms make me think that your 12-VDC battery(s) are not properly charged. In an RV, the interior lights, the temperature control panel, the 2-way fridge control panel, and your alarms all run on your 12-VDC Coach battery. This battery must be kept charged for this equipment to operate properly.
I recommend that you ask yourself:
1- Does your battery have water in it?
2- With a multimeter, can you measure at least 13-5 VDC across the Coach battery?
These are the most probable causes of your problems. Check these before getting into anything else.
I have a 20ft Jayco Flight and having AC problems. My thermostat is not getting power or else barely measurable. The lights work in the trailer and everything else just the AC/furnace won’t turn on because of the thermostat's lack of power. There is 110 in the control box of the AC, and all fuses in the box are good, and breakers are all on. Could it be the converter is going bad? If not what else could it be?
Yes, your converter does keep your camper's battery charged, which in turn provides the 12-VDC to your temperature control board.
I would suspect the battery, and then the converter so check that your battery is good!
1: Does it have water in it?
2: Is the converter functioning? Check this by looking for 13-5 to 14.5 volts across your battery terminals. A voltage less than this, even 12-VDC indicates the battery is not being charged.
3: Never trust your campground power! Check that the power at your campsite power box is what it should be.
We have a 1990 Itasca, and the circuit breaker for the AC unit keeps tripping on especially hot days. We replaced the circuit breaker, and now nothing will work. We even tried putting the old one back in and still nothing. We're pretty sure it's the same amperage. Any suggestions on what could be going on?
As AC units age, they draw more current each time the compressor tries to start up. They can draw as much as 3-5 Amps each.
As to your breaker, if it is the right replacement then you should first call the campground office and have them send someone to check out your campsite power box as the breakers on it could be kicked. Do this before you do anything else inside your RV.
I have a 2018 Montana 5th wheel. When plugged into 50amp service, not all my electrical is working. A couple of outlets in the kitchen and master bedroom don't work. My fireplace, microwave and bedroom TV don't work. Everything else is working. I have checked all the breakers and fuses they are fine. What could be wrong?
First of all, you have several receptacles that are on a GFCI circuit, and there is a MASTER GFCI which has a reset button on it. Make sure this hasn't kicked out.
Second, your Fiver probably has a Cut-Off switch that is used to turn OFF 12-VAC to a number of your interior 12-VDC equipment so that they do not draw current when you put it in storage. This switch can be found somewhere inside your RV, usually near the entrance. Always make sure this is ON/OFF as desired.
Now to your Fireplace, Microwave and BR TV; these all operate on 110-VAC, and I need to as if your Power Control Panel indicates whether you have 50-APM service or not?
Also, I would ask if your AC operates and cools because it runs on your full 220-VAC. If it cools, then you have a problem inside your RV, if it doesn't then you may not have half of your 220-VAC coming into your RV.
Check the items first before you get into anything else.
By the way, your COACH battery is good, right? It has water in it, and it is taking charge, right? You see, a number of your interior control devices use this battery for power such as your temperature control panel, your 2-way Fridge (if you have one) and your CO, Fire and other alarms. This battery is kept charged by your Converter, so make sure it is charging the battery.
Also, some of your appliances, such as your BR TV, Front TV, and possibly the Fireplace may operate using 110-VAC that is generated by an INVERTER which in turn operates off of your battery.
So, keep that battery in good condition and being charged properly.
Every time it gets cold my 12volt system power in my RV is affected and the lights dim, heater doesn't work, and refrigerator turns off even though I'm plugged into a power source directly. plug ins work fine though, so what could be the issue?
Of course you know that your 12-Volt system is powered by your COACH batteries. These batteries, in turn, are kept charged by your RV's built-in Converter that is itself powered by your external 110-VAC source.
So, keeping this in mind, it is most likely that your COACH batteries are old and can no longer hold a charge.
Because of this, your 12-VDC equipment is actually running on your Converter, and it is being overloaded.
Check your 12-VDC batteries first to make sure they have water and the connections are secure.
Then check the date they were purchased because they may just be old and need replacement.
The power to our motorhome kept kicking off. The park checked and replaced the 50 amp breaker, and now I have no power to the coach, but if I run my generator, then everything works. What could be an issue?
Of course, you need to get the Campground people back because they still have a problem with their power pole or system.
something is draining the chassis batteries on my class C. Removing all of the fuses from the panel does not alleviate the issue. Can you offer any advice?
You have not provided very much information here, but here is something you can check.
Your Class-C has a couple of CUT-OFF switches. One for the Chassis circuits and one for the Coach circuits. They are there to allow you to disconnect the Chassis circuits when you are camping and thus not drain the battery with your engine and dash accessories over that timeframe.
Also, your; power steps, power awning, and exterior door light operate on your Chassis battery and can, over time, drain them. So, if you should make sure to start your engine for 20-30 minutes each week to recharge your engine battery. Some motorhome manufacturers even install a small solar trickle charger on the roof to keep the engine battery charged.
We have a 2004 Fleetwood Bounder Motorhome that the dash lights stay on after the key is turned off. Is this normal?
No, Your Bounder dash lights are powered through the ignition switch, so they should go off when the switch is in the Off position. I can't think of anything that would allow the lights to stay ON other than a bad ignition switch, or the possibility that you are putting your switch in the ACC position rather than OFF.
Check the wiring under your dash and those coming from your steering wheel column for damage which could cause a "short".
I have a 2015 Starcraft AR-One. The 12v system works on shore power, but it won't charge the battery; it won't work on its own. My battery is new. I checked the breakers and fuses, and all is good. I also checked and cleaned the ground connection. Is there a converter problem? Do you have any suggestions?
The fact that your RV systems work when plugged into shore power indicates that your converter is not charging your battery. If you have a multimeter use it to check the voltage across the battery terminals. If the converter is charging the battery, the voltage should be between 13.50 VDC fully charged and 14.5 VDC while charging. If the converter is not charging, check that the indicator light is on and the fuse in the converter is good.
We have a 2007 Nomad Lite, we are doing some painting and little upgrades. We plugged it into the house with a 30amp adapter to run the interior lights, but the running lights are on also. Are the running lights on a 2007 Nomad Lite not hooked up to 12 volts?
Well, your running lights and signal lights on a Nomad should get their power from the towing connector that goes to your tow vehicle.
So, unless your camper wiring has been modified then these lights should not be powered ON except by your towing vehicle.
For them to be ON without a tow vehicle connected then the running lights must have been rewired to your COACH battery, probably at your DC fuse panel, I would guess.
What could be the problem with my Shoreline RV when the microwave and outlets have power, but not the lights, slide out, and awning?
In all probability, your problem is with your Coach battery and Converter system.
Check that your SHUT-OFF switch is ON first, then check that your battery is in good condition and that the Converter is charging the battery.
How do I fix a 98 Fleetwood ignition that is getting no power to the ignition?
Your Fleetwood motorhome is wired the same as a car or truck, as far as the engine is concerned.
So, if it is a Ford engine and drivetrain, you can take your RV to a Ford truck service center for repairs.
If you are handy with engines then I would recommend that you first make sure your engine's battery is good and fully charged.
If the battery is good, then you should check your fuse panel under the hood for a blown fuse. Also, many motorhomes will have another fuse panel under the dash somewhere, and you should check it for blown fuses also.
Your ignition switch is hard to get to because like regular trucks it is mounted in the shaft of the steering wheel and thus it is a real task to check the wiring.
But, you should remember that most motorhomes will have safety switches on the emergency brake and on the transmission shift lever designed for safety purposes to make sure your slides and leveling jacks are in the right position.
Another thing to check is that the main or Chassis Cut-Off switch is in the right position before RV use and not set for storage.
I have a 40-foot big horn hooked up to 110 and it worked fine for 3 months then randomly started tripping the gfci inside the house. Gfci's inside the house are working properly. I replaced the 2 adaptors and it blows gfci out. Could it be that the 50amp breaker inside the camper is bad? The 50 amp breaker inside camper doesn't trip but I'm unsure that 110 would have enough power to trip the breaker?
My 5th wheel was accidentally wired to 220 briefly, it's obvious that it caused problems. My flat screen TV and DVD player fried and all appliances seem to be working only at half power.... i.e., microwave takes 6 minutes for a cup of hot water normally a minute-and-a-half does it) the light is very dim, and the vacuum cleaner is like running on low speed, which it doesn't have a low speed. Is it the converter that took the damage? I appreciate any advice you can give.
This is not good! The first thing I hope you did was to get that RV external source wiring fixed??? Once it is wired properly, you may need to have an electrician check the wiring inside your RV especially around the 110-VAC breaker panel.
Once you get this far, you should turn ALL of your breakers to OFF, and then turn them ON, one by one and check the circuits each breaker controls for the proper 110-VAC, using a multimeter.
When you are doing this, you should see your normal 110-VAC at each receptacle.
By the way, your Converter uses your 110-VAC and "converts it to 12-VDC for all of your 12-volt equipment and accessories such as your; COACH battery, interior lights, alarms, temperature control panel, 2-way fridge control panel. So, check that it is keeping the battery charged, as it may have also been damaged.
I am at a loss about the power in our camper. 1st day we turned it on after the winter storage only some of the outlets worked. The GFCI's didn't work in the kitchen or bathroom. The bath was the only one with the tester. We replaced the bath one GFCI but couldn't reset the button. Then we noticed our new battery in the morning was dead too. Should we replace all the GFCI? Our converter was replaced last year.
My 110-volt system is fine. I have brand spanking new 12 volt batteries, terminals clean, all 12 volt fuses fine, all 12-volt cabin lights are fine, but the wall monitor. The tank indicators and pump switch are inoperatv. What do I do?
Your Monitor panel operates on 12-VDC from your COACH batteries, so this one is a little strange. You didn't say what model RV you have, so I will assume it is a motorhome and that you also have a water pump switch in your service center and near the sink, all wired so that any one of them will operate the water pump. SO, do your other switches operate the pump??? Some RV's will have two 12-VDC fuse panels in them; one near the dash and one in the rear somewhere, so check if you have this condition and a bad fuse in the second one.
But, logic says that you do not have 12-VDC to this Wall Monitor panel which you can check with a multimeter.
I have a 2005 Alfa See Ya with six 6-volt battery problems. The batteries were bad for years; constantly running the inverter. Then all of a sudden all power went out, 110 VCD and 12 VDC. What happened?
You can run off of your CONVERTER (Charger), but it is not recommended. The batteries should be made functional. When they are running, the Converter is "resting." If you do not have 110-VAC to your RV then your Converter will not operate, so you need to get power to it once again.
Check that you have external 110VAC coming into your RV, and that your AC appliances are functioning, including the Converter.
Once the Converter is running again, it will charge your batteries, and your temperature control panel, your interior lights, and your 2-way fridge will all operate properly.
I have a 1992 Prowler. I replaced the slide controller and switch about four weeks ago. The water pump is now blowing fuses. It worked when I replaced the controller. It looks like the other electrical items work. What could be causing the short?
Your water pump runs on your Coach 12-VDC system. If everything else that runs on this system is operating OK, then I suspect your water pump motor is the problem. A long shot is that, considering the age of your RV, there is a loose wire on one of your water pump control switches to ground. You should check for this first, then the motor.
We bought a 2016 Born Free Class C RV on a Mercedes chassis. We have been experiencing an intermittent problem with all of our exterior lights not working. No brakes, back up, turn signals or running lights. When the RV is in Park they go out, so we never know if they're going to work or not. Any ideas?
The exterior lights are all part of your chassis' electrical system and not your coach electrical system.
Personally, I would first call Mercedes Customer Service and get them to explain what the problem might be.
I suspect the RV will need to be taken to the Mercedes dealer for them to check the problem out for you.
There is power at my RV's shore power cord, but no power at the transfer switch. There are three wires at the inlet, and six at the transfer. What's the problem?
Your information is a little sparse here, but I am assuming you have a motorhome and a built-in generator. The transfer switch allows external power into the RV electrical system normally, but if your RV generator is turned ON, then this is sensed by the power control panel, and it applies power to the transfer switch, and it switches over to the generator for power.
The power control panel operates using 12-VDC from your coach battery. So, check your battery and make sure it is full of water and is taking charge of your converter. Otherwise, your power control panel can act weird if this voltage is low.
And, there should not be anything between the external power connector and the transfer switch.
Occasionally, my lights will dim for a few seconds. Also, my propane furnace will slow down. I figure that I must have a short somewhere. Do you have any ideas how to find it? I have a 2003 Allegro Bay gas motorhome built by Tiffin.
It sounds like your coach battery isn't holding a charge? Your converter may also be switching on too often as it tries to keep the coach battery charged.
I have a 2009 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite. The 12VDC system is randomly working. As an example, the 12V works for about 10-15 mkinutes when first plugged in, then goes out for about 30secs.-1 minute, then comes back on and stays on for 5 minutes and does this cycle for a while. Then, without turning it off sometimes it will eventually stop and run for hours and then start the cycle again. Thought it might be overheating, but the fan is working fine. Do you have any thoughts, other than buying a new converter?
You need to remember that the heart of your interior 12-VDC system is your COACh battery(s).
So, 1-how old is your battery? 2- Does it have water in it? 3- Is it holding a charge?
Your symptoms point to your battery being your problem and your Converter is constantly trying to keep the voltage and current up to par.
And if the battery is good, then you should suspect the Converter as being the problem and it not being able to keep your coach battery charged
I have a 2010 Springdale travel trailer and suddenly the air conditioner, fridge, hot water and one light stopped working simultaneously. Fuses are good and no blown breakers. Do you have any suggestions on what I can do?
Check your battery! the 2-way Fridge, the temperature control panel and the interior lights are powered by your 12-VDC from your battery. It in turn is kept charged by your Converter.
This is your most common cause of this kind of problem.
Check your battery out by; does it have water in it and are the connections on the terminals tight. Then, check the voltage across the terminals to se if the bttery is being charged, it should be around 14.5 VDC if it is being charged, around 13.5 if it is fully charged, and if it is down to around 12.5 VDC then it is not charged.
My RV fridge does not work on 120 or propane, and there are no lights on the monitor panel so what is wrong?
Your Fridge is a 2-WAY one. It operates on Propane when you are not plugged into Shore power, and then it operates on your 110-AC. But, the control circuit board of your fridge operates on your 12-VDC COACH battery.
So, the first thing you need to do is check that battery and see if; 1- does it have water in it, 2- are battery connections the connections in good condition and tight, 3- Is the battery taking charge?
Because the battery is the most common problem with the Fridge and interior lights not working properly, and the fact that your monitor panel does not light up then you should check the battery first.
You can remove the rear cover on the outside of the Fridge and check for 12-VDC after you have checked out the battery itself.
Hello, I recently bought a 1991 Damon Challenger class A, my question is that when I try to use the A/C with the generator within 3 or 4 minutes the circuitbraker for the A/C trips and when plugged in whith the house electricity it does the same thing, but it last a little longer like 20 minutes?
First, you need to understand that your RV's AC unit draws around 6-8 Amps when it is running, but when it first cycles, the Compressor has to start up, and this can add another 3-4 amp temporarily, until it is operating. Your RV breakers and circuitry to the AC are designed to handle this load.
But, as an AC unit ages, it takes more current to get the Compressor running, as much as 6-8 Amps as opposed to the current needed to start a new AC.
So, what you end up with is a load, from the AC unit itself of 8-12 Amps. Or as high as 14-18 Amps for an older unit.
So, if you have other appliances also operating in your RV, you could be near the maximum load of your RV wiring which can cause your overall supply of power to "sag" as this extra load from the AC compressor occurs, which in turn can force your breaker to kick.
Then there are your Circuit breakers. The breakers in your Rv are probably original to the RV, and over time, if they have been "Kicked Off" many times, the metals inside the breaker can become "stressed," and the breaker can start operating at a lower current level. So, simply put your original 15-Amp breaker could be operating at a lower current such as 14-Amps.
The electric went out in my trailer. I replaced the male end on my main electric line because it was burnt, and I replaced the female 30w receptacle on the main pedestal source. The pedestal has power to it, but when I plug my main line into it, I lose power. When I unplug it and the 30w receptacle at the pedestal, it loses power. What is the problem?
I assume you mean you have 30-AMP service, not 30-watt.
I suspect that your power cord has a problem. The cheapest way to check this is to borrow a cord from another camper and then check if the trailer has a problem. Or, you could get a multimeter and check the continuity of the wires at both ends of the cord. If you're lucky, you just melted the cord wires together inside the cord. Hopefully, if you put the new connector on wrong, then the trailer wiring wasn't damaged. Be sure to check your trailer breaker and fuses.
Does it matter which way the RV's blade fuses go into the converter?
No, it doesn't matter.
I have a ten-year-old 16' Antiqua StarCraft camper. The issue I'm having is that the 30 amp fuses blow out as soon as I plug it in. Do you think I need a new power converter?
First things first; Check your Rv battery and make sure it is good. Does it have water in it and can you read a voltage across the terminals? Even if it is mostly discharged it should read around 12-VDC, If you read down at 2 to 3 volts then the battery can either be fully discharged, or it can have gone bad.
Once you know you have a good battery, then check the voltage across the terminals of the battery and you should read; around 14.5-VDC if the battery is being charged, around 13.5-VDC if the battery is charged, and if you read around12.5 VDC or lower then your Converter is not charging the battery.
But, are you talking about AC-Voltage fuses blowing or are you talking about DC-Voltage MAIN fuses?
Either way, this is a serious current draw to blow the fuses.
So, if its the AC fuses then I would disconnect the Converter to see if the fuses blow as it is the most likely cause of your problem.
My trailer, when plugged into shore power, has no power. I have checked the power at the main breaker, and I am getting 120. When I open up any of the other breakers, the neutrals all become hot. I still have 120 when checking for heat at the main breaker, but when checking any other breaker to the neutrals, they all read 0, meaning the neutrals are hot. What could be causing this?
You didn't say but I assume that your trailer is wired for the standard 30-Amp service.
First, check your neutral wires to a good ground. This should never show any voltage reading.
Assuming that your trailer's power system has worked normally in the past, I would check the following;
1- Is the external RV power cord that is plugged into the campsite power box OK? Is there any damage to the cord or any oxidation on the contacts?
2- If the cord is OK then I would contact the campground and have them check out their campsite power box wiring.
My air conditioner in my RV in the living room stopped working when I went to change bulb over the sink. Do you know how it can be fixed?
I am afraid you did not give me much information but here goes;
1- Your interior RV lights run on your 120VDC from your COACH battery.
2- Your RV Air Conditioner does not operate on 12-VDC, but on 110-VAC. The temperature control panel in your RV is powered by 120VDC.
The one possibility I can give you from what little you have told me is that your coach battery was not fully charged by your converter, and the addition of the load of that one new lamp was enough to drop the voltage below what is needed by your temperature control panel.
Check your battery for water, and that it is being charged to fix your problem.
I have a mid 90s Wilderness camp trailer and after I got it home last year, all the electrical stuff quit working, except on DC voltage. Even though I had it plugged in, I suddenly had no ac, fridge, or lights. The only thing I have is a 20 amp outlet that I hooked up to, with the adapter on the cord. How vital is a 30 amp source? Did I cook my power inverter?
Your 2-way Fridge, your temperature controlpanel, and your interior lights ALL operate on your camper's 12-VDC battery. The battery is kept charged by your camper's Converter (Charger). A standard 30-Amp service is made up of two 11-VAC lines to provide the 220-VAC for your Air Conditioner.
So, my first question is; are you using a standard 15-Amp to 30-Amp adapter made for RV's? If not you could be not powering the side that drives your Converter.
Also, make sure your camper's 12-Volt Cut-Off switch is not in the wrong position.
As to your Inverter, it also uses the battery's 12-VDC to make 110-VAC for your TV, etcetera.
I'm a techy type. My Airstream is 30 amps. I use a volt meter inside all the time. Throughout the day, I get a voltage drop of 5v-6v even if the AC is off. Out at the post on a 120v receptacle, I get 121v. If I turn off all the beakers inside except one for the meter, I get 115v inside and 121v at the post. What are your thoughts?
First of all, your 30-Amp voltage coming into your RV is 220-VA, or dual 110-VAC lines. When you check the voltage at the campsite power panel 110-VAC receptacle, it could be on the opposite 110-VAC line.
Now, normally you would not expect a 5-6 volt drop from the campsite power panel to the inside of your RV.
You could check for; oxidation on the external power cable contacts for one thing. The more important thing to check is whether your voltage drops to a dangerous level when you are operating a lot of your electrical equipment. The best tool for protecting your Rv from potential damage from power changes is a good Surge Protector installed inline from the campsite power panel.
I have a Lacrosse 2016 with 50 amps. My lights are dim, and it looks as if they are going off. It's been suggested that the converter is not passing enough current to the battery. Do you think we need a new converter?
First, check that you have water in your coach battery. If so, check that it has at least 13.5 VDC across its terminals. This would be the normal voltage reading while a reading of around 14.5 VDC is what you should see when the Converter is charging the battery. I would check these things first before I worried about the Converter; although they do go bad, but not often.
My RVs microwave and outlets don't work. Also, the lights for the fuse box don't come on when I take out the fuse. What could be the issue?
Your Microwave and outlets use your RV 110-VAC from either external power or generator power.
The "fuse lights" are powered by your COACH battery 12-VDC.
First, check your GFCI receptacle and make sure it has not "kicked off." If it has, reset it.
Your water pump runs on 12-VDC, and a quick check of your 12-VDC system is to turn your water pump ON and check if it operates.
Your Microwave gets its power from one of your 110-VAC breakers in your breaker panel, check that it has not "kicked OFF."
I If everything mentioned is working OK; then I would next suspect your campsite power panel and the probability of one of the breakers on the power box to be kicked OFF or even the campsite power not being adequate.
Today I came home to my 2004 34’ 5th wheel, the air conditioner was on, but it was too cold, so I switched it off. The next time I was warm, I turned on the switch, and nothing happened, so I switched it off again. But now, with the switch still set to off, the air conditioner comes on, but no air blows out. Am I in danger? What is happening?
The first assumption we have to make here is that the AC and the temperature control panel wiring has not been "messed with" by anyone. The reason I say this is that a correctly wired system and a suitable control panel would not apply power to your AC.
So, if the AC is trying to operate then the odds are that 1- your Temperature control panel is bad; or 2- your temperature sensor on the interior wall is bad, or 3- you have a wire that has shorted to ground somewhere in the wiring system of the AC.
As t whether this is a dangerous problem, I could not say from what you have described, but I would get tie wiring checked.
We have a 2005 Fleetwood Utah cp pop-up and everything works but the lights. We have checked the fuses. What should we check next?
Your Pop-Up will have a battery that powers your interior lights. Most Pop-Ups do not have a built-in converter operating on 110-VAC that charges the battery. If yours does have a converter, then your battery must be charged, then used. If you do have a converter, check that it has 110-VAC input power from your campsite and that it is charging your battery, and, of course, that your battery has water and is taking a charge.
I have a 1993 Coronado that has 2 switches inside, one to turn the 12-volt power and one for the aux batteries. I can’t get any power going to the dashboard or ignition. I changed the switches still nothing. What should I check to fix the electrical problem with my RV?
The two switches are actually CUT-OFF switches for disconnecting your COACH (or AUX) and CHASSIS (or MAIN) power from the RV equipment so that the batteries are not drained while the RV is in Storage.
These switches actually control two high-current solenoids near the batteries which actually do the power switching.
But, they operate on your 12-VDC power (COACH batteries).
So, you need these batteries to be in good condition and fully charged.
You should check the voltage on the COACH batteries, right across the terminals and make sure they are in good condition, they are full of water, and the Converter is keeping them charged.
We have a 1998 Jayco Eagle 262FK. On our first trip, we lost power about four hours into the trip; we were plugged into shore power. On the second trip, we lost only lights and AC; the outlets worked fine, and the fridge blinked low DC and beeped. We replaced the converter, but we are still rapidly losing battery power and all power aside from the outlets. Are we missing something?
From what you've described, I feel you may have an inverter that is using your battery to power your TV. If so, turn it off; you should have a switch to do this while traveling or storing your camper.
Next, while towing, you should only have your two-way fridge operating on propane and 12-VDC for the control board and your camper's interior lights.
If nothing else is turned on while towing, your battery should easily have enough power for a day-long trip.
If this isn't so, how old is your battery? Does it have water in it? Maybe it's time for a new battery if it can't hold a charge.
I have a 2007 Jayco Melbourne. Lately, while the unit is sitting whether plugged into shore power or running off of backup batteries, the unit suddenly looses all power in the house. Batteries are ok, and so is the shore power. Last time this occurred I disconnected the negative from the house batteries (no shore power) and everything started again! Can this be a transfer switch issue?
Your coach batteries are kept charged by your shore power to your built-in Converter (charger) which in turns provides 12-VDC to the Coach battery(s).
You can only operate on your Coach batteries for a few days before they lose charge themselves and this looks like it might be your problem.
If everything goes OFF, even when on shore power, you might have a Converter problem and need to check it out, but first things first, I would make sure my Coach battery is in good condition and also consider 1- does it have water? 2- how old is it? 3- is it holding a charge?
I bought a used 2004 hybrid travel trailer. The first time I tried turning the fridge on, the outside outlet directly behind the fridge shot massive sparks out, enough that neighbors noticed. The breaker in the trailer did trip shortly after. What could have happened?
I can only guess that if the receptacle is on one of the moving parts of your hybrid that you have "rubbed" the insulation off of one of the "hot" wires you could get sparks if these damaged wires touch the chassis.
If you remove the access panel on your fridge you may be able to inspect these wires for damage.
I have a 2018 Forest River KQBTS with no electrical issues as of last year when I bought it. I kept it stored outside and covered during the winter. This year, only the battery works. At first, the microwave clock came on, but then that stopped too. There are no fuse or breaker issues that I can find. Do you have any ideas?
First of all, if your microwave clock worked, then you must be plugged into 110-VAC?
So, check that your RV battery has water in it. Then measure the voltage across the battery terminals. It should be around 13.5 VDC if it is fully charged, or around 14.5 VDC if it is not charged, but the RV charger is running.
Once you have confirmed the battery system is operating OK, then you can check out your AC-Voltage problem.
I assume you have a 30-Amp service and that you are using a standard RV external power cord. It is important that you use a standard RV power cord and that you have it plugged into a standard 30-Amp power source like what you see in a campsite.
If you are using some kind of home extension cord and adapter, there can be problems with ground lines, and even the power lines you use. There are standard 30-Amp to 15-Amp adapters available on the web and at Rv parts stores. NEVER use an adapter that does not have the ground pin on it.
My class C RV sat idle for four weeks after a 1500 mile trip, and when I started up in the driveway, all seemed fine. Today, I noticed that my step did not return when I started the engine, and now I have no coach power at all. I checked all the breakers and fuses that I can find. Still, there is no power, and my step will not return, even when plugged into house current. When plugged into the house, everything seems to work except for the step. I've also placed two new marine batteries this winter. Why doesn't the coach have power?
Your engine battery powers your RV step.
The step typically will not operate, though, if you do not have the RV emergency brake ON.
As to your Coach power, check to make sure that the MANI and AUX switches in the right position for RV storage. Always keep an eye on those coach batteries, and keep the water level full.
I own a 2005 holiday rambler ambassador. I have changed out the fuse that goes to the dashboard and still cannot get my dashboard to light up at night. Do I need to take it for servicing or am I missing something else?
When you turn your dash lights ON, you apply power to the dash light dimmer that in turn controls the voltage that goes to the dash lights themselves.
I would first check that all of the wires connected to the light switch itself are still connected, then I would use a multimeter and check for voltage on the dimmer itself.
The Light switch itself applies a voltage to relays under the hood that in turn apply power to the headlights, running lights, tail lights and such on the outside of the RV. If these are being turned OFF and ON, then the voltage at the light switch is getting voltage and should be applying this same voltage to the dimmer.
I have a 93 Bounder and it seems like my system is frying my batteries, it stinks really bad. What would cause my car to stink?
I assume you're talking about your COACH batteries and not your Engine Battery?
If so, then you need to use a multimeter and check that your CONVERTER is operating properly.
Check at the battery terminals and you should have around 12.5-VDC if the battery is NOT charging, and you should get around 14.5 VDC if the battery is being charged properly, not higher.
Also, before you do anything else check those COACH batteries and make sure they have water in them and that they do not feel HOT! If they're HOT replace them immediately you probably have shorted plates in the battery.
If the charging voltage is very high, as I mentioned, then you need to check out and possibly replace that CONVERTER!
We have a Xantrex XM1000 inverter and only one 12volt battery to run our residential refrigerator (5th wheel). We've recently started getting an overload (E5) error, that occurs intermittently when we're hooked to our tow vehicle or while running our generator. This will "kill" the power to the outlet, even when the generator is running. Do you have any ideas or suggestions?
The first thing to do is check that battery out. Make sure it has water in it and that it is taking as well as holding a charge. This battery should be a "deep-discharge" one because of the large variations in the load applied to it. Remember your COACH battery also powers your interior lights, your Temperature control panel, your alarms, and other devices in your RV.
Also, getting this error while operating on your generator is indicative of possible problems with your INVERTER, if the battery checks out to be OK.
I suspect your battery as your culprit.
After returning from a weekend trip where everything went great, I plug in my camper to the outlet at home and it trips the GFI breaker. I have moved out the cord and it is ok. also turned off all breakers in the RV and home cable from the reciprocal to 50 amp breaker it is fine as well. Do you have any suggestions?
Remember that your GFCI system is designed to detect very small current leakage between your GROUND and COMMON lines.
Your problem could be something as simple as your house GFCI breaker being old and more susceptible to a slight current that was always there before.
Or it could be just some slight induced current in your RV cable.I can say that I have had the same problem with my motorhome and my house GFCI circuit and I replaced the GFCI receptacle itself. This fixed things for more than a year and then it started up again, so I just moved my cable to a non-GFCI receptacle in my house, and I haven't had a problem anymore.
Again, this problem is really hard to detect with just a multimeter, so rather than chase a ghost if you understand that your RV cable is a pretty long run of wires that handle high currents (50-AMPs) and just crushing the wires closer together somewhere along the length or getting oxidation or "char" from arcing on the contacts can change the way the cable looks to your GFCI system.
My RV is docked and my inverter is always running and buzzing. Is this normal?
Are you talking about an INVERTER (which uses 110-VAC to generate 12-VDC to and keep your COACH battery charged) or a CONVERTER which uses 12-VDC to generate 110-VAC for special receptacles in your camper). Regardless, neither should be making any noise, but will operate if they have a load on them, of course.
Where is the circuit breaker for 1983 resort travel trailer?
You will usually find the MAIN AC-Voltage Breaker panel on the inside of the trailer and near the input cable receptacle on the outside of the trailer. The wiring is heavy-duty so they mounted them close to each other.
Look for a panel that you can open and find the MAIN breaker and a few other breakers for appliances and such.
I moved my travel trailer, and now none of the outlets are working. I already flipped the fuses. What's wrong?
Well, the first question I would have is; Is the external power cable plugged in securely? At both ends? The next question would be; did you check if the campsite you moved to actually has power at the connectors and that the breakers on the power pole? These are your most likely problems.
I have a 1984 Coachman camper (not a trailer) and the General Breaker keeps tripping after I turn on the power and the main breaker and nothing is plugged into the camper and this is the first time its done this. What should I do to resolve my camper's power issues?
I assume you are in a campsite and your motorhome is plugged into a standard campsite power box? And I assume you are using a Standard RV power cable for connection between your RV and the campsite power box.
If this is so, and you have "nothing" plugged into any of your AC-Voltage receptacles, and your Air Conditioner is OFF, as well as your TV, Fridge, and microwave, then the only thing left is your CONVERTER. Your Converter keeps your COACH battery charged, so unplug it to see if the problem goes away.
Whatever is causing your MAIN breaker to trip is drawing a lot of current and I would look for a "Short" in the wiring to GROUND first.
We all of a sudden have an electric issue. We are on a campground with full hook up; 50 amp, but the lights, water pump and AC stopped working. What could have caused it?
Check your COACH batteries. Your RV's interior lights, water pump and the control panel for your AC's all operate on your 12-VDC which comes from the COACH batteries. Check the following;
1- do the Coach batteries have water in them?
2- Are they fully charged by your RV's Converter (Charger)?
These two things are the top most common causes of your problem.
I have a 2007 travel trailer, no coach batteries, and when plugged into a sure power source, the power flutters off and on every 10 seconds. The converter is good and all fuses and breakers are new. What is the problem with my trailer's electricity?
You have left out a few details, but I will try to help anyway.
First of all, Iknow of no Travel Trailer that doesn't rely on a Coach battery to power the interior lights, alarms, 2-way fridge circuit board, temperature control panel and more.
And, this Coach battery is kept charged by your Converter which in turn operates on 110VAC.
Also, your symptoms of the power (I assume the 12-VDC from the Converter) cycling ON and OFF every few seconds is a common symptom of the COACH battery not taking a charge or even not being there, and the Converter not being able to handle the load on it.
If you have a model of travel trailer that is designed without a Coach battery, then I would love to know the maker and model.
Otherwise, find and Check that battery.
I have a 2008 Keystone Cougar fifth wheel trailer that was plugged into a 220 outlet. None of the breakers blew, but now the AC and the furnace will not come on and the microwave is burned up. No fuses were tripped. Does this mean the electrical units themselves are burned up?
Considering your symptoms, please note that your Microwave operates on 110-VAC and the fact that you say it is "burned up?" implies that you had a serious power surge on your external lines. Normally your AC Power Panel breakers should have kicked, but often, with a momentary very high voltage surge they can be too slow reacting and you can have damage to your appliances.
You should first turn OFF all of your RV breakers and then check your 220-VAC outlet you are plugged into and make sure it is wired properly, and that you have the appropriate voltage on the input to your breaker panel as well as make sure the GROUND and COMMON wires at the outlet are wired properly.
Once you confirm the wiring is proper, I suggest that you get a good SURGE PROTECTOR and put it in series with your RV power cable.
Then you should turn your breakers ON, one by one and check what in your RV might work and what might be damaged. Make sure you check your CONVERTER and make sure it is charging your COACH battery and thus have 12-VDC going to all of your control panels especially the temperature control panel before you check out your Air Conditioner units.
what does the term SHED mean on the control panel for the AC units?
The term SHED is often used with Air Conditioning systems and other electrical systems.
The term refers to the ability to do "Load Shedding" or essentially power load sharing between different power sources.
With the data you gave me, I cannot give you much more than this without knowing your RV design and your Air conditioning systems and such.
I am assuming that your RV Air Conditioners have this capability with your different power sources such as your external power and your generator power?
There is no power to the thermostat. The remote wire from the power source, 12V, is there. What is the root of the power wire? Does it go straight from the 12V to the thermostat or does it go to the AC first?
First make sure that when you measure the 12-VDC, you also have the other lead on a good solid ground, preferably the metal chassis.
If there is still NO VOLTAGE on the 12-VDC wire, then go to your 12-VDC Fuse panel for the RV internal systems and make sure you do not have a blown fuse. If there is NO 12-VDC into the Fuse panel then check your COACH battery and check for 12-VDC across the terminals of the battery.
Remember that the 12-VDC from those batteries power your temperature control panel, your Fridge control panel, your gas alarms, and your interior lights.
I have a 2019 Keystone Passport that I am towing with a 2011 Toyota FJ Cruiser. While I’m towing all my lights and signals work and function properly. When I park and disconnect the power to my trailer it shorts out the fuse in my engine compartment that energizes my Reese Brake controller. If I replace the fuse it’ll work properly until I once again disconnect the trailer. Do you have any idea as to what may be causing my brake controller fuse to short out upon disconnecting?
Disconnecting the towing power cable should never blow a fuse in your towing vehicle. I suspect that you have a wiring problem where you are putting two power sources onto your Brake Controller, and the fuse blows because of this. Make sure you are not using the DC Voltage line in your tow cable in addition to the possible DC power you have wired to the Brake Controller internal to your towing vehicle (under the dash)?
My RV's generator is generating power but the outlets are dead. Could the breakers be bad?
I assume you have power in your RV when it is plugged into campsite power? And when you start your generator, the RV does not switch over to its power? If this is the problem then your RV's power control panel may not be functioning properly as it senses which power source is available and then selects the appropriate solenoid to connect only ONE of the power sources for your RV. And when the generator is running it should have been selected.
As to your outlets, are you looking at ALL outlets or just the GFCI ones? Make sure that your GFCI main receptacle has been reset if only GFCI outlets have no power.
I’m having surges in the brightness of my RV lights and also the furnace blower from time to time. It’s usually in conjunction with a buzzing noise from the breaker box area which I suspect is from the inverter underneath it. Any idea what may be causing this? Should I just replace the inverter?
Actually, the first thing you should do is have the campground you are using check their campsite power. Most often, many campgrounds will have unstable power and it can damage your RV.
THat's why so many people use a good Surge Protector on their input line from the campsite power box. I would make sure this power is good a stable first before I tried to change anything inside my RV.
My travel trailer is strictly on electric. I was staying in it for a year. Everything worked when I parked it. A wind storm came and it got blown out of place but not on the ground. Now my slide out does not work. I have checked the fuses, breaker, the motor and it still does not work but everything else does. Any suggestions?
Recently, my bedroom lights started flickering but not losing power- like a half current. I changed the light toggle on/off switch - which did not change anything. How should I further diagnose my RV's electrical problems?
This kind of problem that occurs often when your COACH batteries are not holding a charge and you are normally running on your Converter.
But when the Converter turns OFF the battery drops voltage quickly and the Converter has to come on again.
So, check your COACH batteries. Do they have water, are they holding a charge?
I have a 2012 Fleetwood Bounder. The house batteries were in need of replacement. When the RV was plugged in everything worked. I replaced the house batteries and while replacing them I caused some sparks. I originally replaced with marine batteries for an emergency fix but that didn’t work. I installed correct batteries and now slides, heaters, steps, and tank test meters are not working. I checked the fuse at the battery source and it is good. Any suggestions on what to do next?
First of all, your steps operate on our engine battery, so that's a different problem if they don't work. Check that your Cut-Off switch is in the right position.
Your Slides, furnace (temperature control panel) and the tank test meters operate using your COACH batteries. Check that this Cut-Off switch is in the right position also.
Considering the sparks you generated, you should check all of the fuses in your 12-VDC Fuse panel for a blown fuse. This should take care of your problem.
My generator was working when the AC was plugged into it, but now the generator will not start. What could the problem be?
First of all, if you have a motorhome with a factory built-in generator, this should not be problem.
The most common cause of this problem in a motorhome is the 12-VDC batteries.
Check your COACH batteries to make sure you have good 12-VDC to your interior 12-Volt equipment,
You have a number of things in your RV that must operate on 12-VDC and one of these is your Power Control panel. It detects your generator is running and switches your Rv equipment over from the Shore Power to the generator.
Also, your generator uses this COACH battery power to start your generator.
So, I suggest that you check your COACH batteries out.
We own a 5th wheel that is 11 years old. We have located it on property by the ocean and don't plan on moving it again. Our batteries (4) are about 4 years old and are swollen up. Since we do not move the RV and are plugged into electrical power, would it hurt anything if we just did away with our batteries, not replacing them? Or, maybe we could discard them and buy one new battery for small things in RV that need battery function.
I have a 2019 Keystone Passport Ultralight. I have it plugged into the house (no batteries), and the interior lights will randomly turn on by themselves. I shut them off, and a few days later they are back on. What would cause this?
Remember that your camper has a battery and a CONVERTER that uses your 110-VAC to keep that battery charged.
Your interior light are 12-VDC lights and they, like a number of our other interior items such as your temperature control panel, your CO and gas alarms as well as your 2-way Fridge (if you have one) all run on your battery.
Because of this, most RV owners will keep the battery in good shape and let it power the interior item it is wired to.
If you do take the battery our, or allow it to degrade, then your interior items will be operating on the CONVERTER, which is typically not designed to carry the load of everything that runs on 12-VDC.
It will be a lot simpler to get that battery in there and running than wiring in a 12-VDC power supply.
I just bought a 2008 Montana 5th wheel. I have 4 overhead dual lights that won't turn on. I checked with bulbs from a working light and determined that the bulbs are not the problem. Where is the first place to check for the problem? They are all in the bedroom in a straight line ( not a wall light, all ceiling lights).
I have a 2017 5th wheel toy hauler. After A 5 state long trip, once we landed home again, we've been experiencing problems with our fridge, microwave, and electric fireplace not working. We've checked gfi and breakers. We are just about to call a mobile repair to fix it. Any advice?
I have a 94 Embassy, by Rockwood. I changed the starter because it would not start. I tried to check to make sure there was a current, but there wasn't any there or to the fuse box. What could be the issue?
I have a 2009 King Sport. We are replacing the thermostat and can't seem to wire it right. Now the wires have no power at all to them. The 12v battery is dead. Is this the reason why?
Your temperature control panel, along with a number of other items in your RV is powered by your coach battery.
So, all campers should make their coach battery is in good condition and that it is kept charged.
From your symptoms, you must have that battery power before you can operate your temperature controls properly.
While my RV is docked, my inverter is always on and making a buzzing sound. Is this normal?
Your INVERTER (Not Converter) uses your 12-VDC from your COACh battery to provide power to a few receptacles that usually power your TV's and a receptacle for your Computer. While you're plugged into your Campsite power, your Converter will turn ON and keep your COACH battery charged.
BUT, there should not normally be any buzzing sounds. Check if its the INVERTER or the CONVERTER?
I need to replace a GFCI outlet. How do I know which circuit breaker to shut off?
The safest thing to do is to turn OFF your MAIN breaker thus making sure ALL AC power to your RV interior is disabled.
I've replaced a couple of these GFCI receptacles over the years on different RV's, and that's what I did, turn off the Main. It only takes maybe 5-minutes to do the job if you have the right tools. I use a flat-blade screwdriver (with insulated grip) for the terminals and a good pair of needle-nosed pliers (with rubber covered handle) to bend the wire ends onto the screw heads.
I have a 1999 Gulf Stream ultra class C. I have noticed that the internal carbon lights continue to work after I have disconnected the AC power source. I am guessing that they are running off the internal battery. Will these carbon lights run the batteries down or hurt my Gulf Stream RV in any way?
I have a 2012 Lance 1685. When plugging into a 30amp shore power plug, it trips the 15A general purpose breaker in the RV. When plugged into 110V with an adaptor, the breaker seems to hold. What are some things I can check before bringing it to the dealer?
Your standard RV 30-AMp Service input consists of two 110-VAC inputs to legally handle the 30-amps of current. When you use an adapter to standard 110VAC, you are only connecting one side, or about 15-Amos of service.
So, first thing, make sure you're using a standard 30-Amp service cable from your campsite to your RV. This cable will have the proper Hot wires as well as the Common and especially Ground wiring.
In my RV, I have a positive 12.5v DC to my new control box, but it is not turning on the AC or fan. I have checked all the connections on the control box from the thermostat, and all get 12.5V DC. I get 120v AC on the relay but the relay wire going up to the AC is getting nothing. Is there some a reset that I need to do to reboot?
The 12-VDC your camper uses comes from your camper battery(s). If they only show a no-load voltage of 12.5 -VDC the battery could not be fully charged. If the battery voltage is this low then your Converter (Charger0 is not running. When it is running the battery voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 VDC even when loaded. I would check the battery for water and then check that the Converter is functioning.
I recently bought a 2017 Winnebago Navion and the inverter runs for about a minute then shuts off with error cod E05 "OL". I assume this means overload. I've tried disconnecting everything, but can't find anything that is overloaded. Suggestions?
Your RV's Inverter typically only powers a couple of receptacles, for your TV's and often one more at your Passenger desk for a PC. Check if you have anything plugged into them. If not, you may have a bad Inverter. You should then go to the Inverter and unplug the cable that is plugged into the Inverter and then see what it does.
My RVs stabilizing jacks will not extend, do you think it's electrical?
Some questions you should review when considering what the problem with stabilizing jacks could be:
1. Are your stabilizing jacks powered or manual?
2. I assume they're electrical, so check if your camper's battery is fully charged because the jacks operate on this power source.
3. Is your RV a motorhome or a trailer/fifth wheel design?
4. If your RV battery is fully charged do you have a "Shut-OFF" switch that's normally used when storing your camper in the right position to allow the use of the battery?
I plug my trailer into a power source, and as soon as I unhook it from 120v, my trailer is dead. What could be the problem?
Please understand that all of your trailer's 110-VAC is supplied by the external campsite cable, so if you disconnect this cable there will be NO 110-VAC.
And your lights, alarms, fridge and temperature control panels, among other accessories, operate on 12-VDC.
I assume that if your 12-VDC I not there, (a quick check is the interior lights) then your trailer's battery is not charged
If this is the case, then you need to check the battery and if your trailer has one, your built-in Converter (Charger) then it operates on your 110-VAC and will not charge the battery if your camper is not plugged into 100-VAC.
My RV battery, converter, AC control box, thermostat, and wires are all new. I ran a new hot and negative from an empty spot on the fuse board. I’m getting 13.5 plus on my battery, and about 13.5 on the control box. But on the control box, all four ins plus the freeze sensor has 13.5 even when the t-stat is switched off. Also, the furnace isn't working. Do you have any thoughts?
Yes, the furnace is managed by the same control panel as the AC. Again, contact the AC manufacturer's customer service people for help, but at the same time, it really seems like a temperature control panel problem, or there is an outside chance that it is a ground problem, so look for lose or broken ground wiring.
There was a lightning storm just now. My RV has no A/C power, and breakers on the electric box are on battery backup working. What can I check now?
First check that (hopefully) the breakers on the campsite power box have kicked and need to be reset.
If they are OK, then (hopefully) you have a Surge Protector inline with your RV Power Cord and just needs resetting?
Use a multimeter and check if you have ANY 110-VAC on the input wires in your breaker box. If there is NO power contact the campground office and have them send a tech out to check their power box. If YES then as a long shot, turn OFF all of your breakers and then turn all of them back on.
These are the most common problems, and you need to check them first. Hopefully, the problem is not inside your RV wiring.
So after fixing my AC problem (bad thermostat and loose power into the thermostat), I ran the AC and it cooled the camper down from 84 to 70. Now the next day I turn in on and it doesn’t cool down and the condenser turns on for about 20-30 secs tops and turns off. I felt the condenser and it was burning hot. What are the possible problems?
Check the drain from your AC. It must be open so the AC unit can drain all of the moisture it generates fro the condenser. And, Turn the AC OFF, all of your symptoms are that it has frozen up and you must allow it time to thaw.
Never set an AC to a temp so low that it is running all of the time. As they age an AC will only be able to cool down so far. When you run your AC, set it at a temperature where it will occasionally stop and not run and then turn on after 30-minutes or so. That setting is where your AC will be the most efficient and not damage itself trying to get down to a temp it just cannot reach.
I have a 2013 Somerset evolution popup camper. When we plug into AC mode everything works, BUT when we use just DC power nothing works. No lights, no switches, no remote for raising the electric roof. Can you give me an idea what I should look for? Battery seems to be fully charged by battery trickle charger showing fully charged. A load test was done at AutoZone showing solid and fully charged.
The fact that your camper's accessories work when your Converter (Charger) is plugged into 110-VAC tells me that your camper' electrical system is OK.
So, it then comes down to your battery and why it is not providing 12-VDC without the Converter?
The first thing you should do is check for loose connections at the battery.
Place a meter across the battery terminals while it is hooked up. If the Converter is working and the battery is low then the voltage should be around 13.5 VDC, if the battery is not charged, then the voltage should be around 14.5 VDC. which would indicate a battery problem. By the way, you did check the water level in the battery, didn't you?
My compressor for the AC buzzes like it’s trying to start and then shuts off after 5-10 secs. The AC thermostat is new, all capacitors are new. The compressor gets burning hot to the touch. The drain for the condensation is not clogged. All the coils and fins are clean. Could it be the compressor? Basically a whole new unit?
From your symptoms, I would sit down, have a cold drink, gird myself and call the local RV AC service tech with the assumption that at least the Condensor is bad.
Sorry, but they can lock up like you describe.
We have a 2010, Sunseeker Class C Motorhome. We just replaced the generator. I turned on the generator to run AC. The generator ran OK and the fuses look normal. I never checked the GFIs. I never got to the batteries which Could be 6-7 years old. The lights and slide outworked, but the microwave and AC would not. Do you have any suggestions?
The first question you need to ask yourself is; Does everything that runs on 110-VAC operate when you're plugged into campsite power?
If it does, then you probably have a problem with the wiring to the generator and not just the output wires, but the control wires from your temperature control panel. And, you need to make sure your COACH battery is being charged properly. If not, your power control panel could be not operating properly. You got your 6-7 years on those original batteries, and I would suggest that you have new ones, just for peace of mind when you do use the RV.
So, change that battery first and then check things out again.
My slide out fuse keeps blowing. It seems to only happen when connected to my truck. Is there a way to test trailer hook up cable?
First of all, if you're using a standard commercial cable to connect your vehicle to your camper, and it is not worn or crushed, then I would suspect the TOW WIRING installed into your Truck.
But remember that if your slide-out fuse is blowing, then this would be caused by something on the slide side of the RV wiring, and I would check that 1- the slide is moving freely, 2-the slide control module is good, and that the slide motor is not drawing too much current.
My new battery charges back up, but I don’t get any voltage measuring from the thermostat negative to trailer negative so no ground problems. I can jump the thermostat DC in to the cooling wire and I hear the relay click, same with the fan. The Cooling and or Fan do not turn on, but if I jump the 110v at the control box the fan and cooling turns on. What could be wrong?
Being remote from your RV, I am honestly stumped. I recommend that you contact the AC manufacturer's customer service people, or call in a local certified RV technician to go over your problem.
I’m having trouble with my 2008 Jayco Flight 20 footers AC. The thermostat doesnt get power(or at least barley measurable) but I have power to the control box from the 110v. I’ve tried disconnecting power and run off battery and the lights work but fridge switched to gas and outlets don’t work. Maybe the converter is going or is bad?
There are several things you need to understand about your trailer's power systems.
1- Your camper's lights, alarms, temperature control panel, and other accessories run on your 12-VDC from your camper battery which is kept charged by your external campsite 110-VAC power to your Converter.
2- Your fridge relies on gas or 12-VDC to operate but the icemaker runs on 110VAC.
3- Your 110-VAC outlets operate on your external campsite power. And you have several receptacles that are on a GFCI circuit that can kick out at times.
SO, If you want everything to work you need to have that 110-VAC campsite power hooked up.
And, you need to check your camper's battery; 1- does it have water in it, and 2- is it charged up?
Your Air Conditioner does run on 110-VAC, but if the temperature control panel doesn't have adequate 12-VDC to it, it will not allow the AIR to run.
Start with understanding these things, and you can get your camper accessories operating properly.
How can I trace a perceived grounding problem with 2 led lights in slideout? I have reduced voltage that would indicate a ground issue? I don't see a junction box underneath or inside that, I can access, only the panel. This is a 2015 Thor Four Winds 31L that is brand new to me.
If you just want to know if a COMMON wire is OK, measure the voltage between it and the RV chassis. The reading should be 0-VDC.
My battery to the engine is boiling and hot. The alternator is good. What could short this battery to get hot?
First of all, turn OFF the engine and after things cool down, replace the battery as your battery probably has an interior plate that has collapsed and is shorting to another one. This can happen with an old battery, or when you haven't checked the water level in the battery. Either way, when a battery is boiling, you need to assume it is bad and replace it.
But, when you do replace the battery, make sure to use a multimeter and check that the new one I operating correctly and check that the alternator is not "over-charging" the battery.
I have an adventurer camper, and the brake lights are not working, the top running lights do but no taillights? I tried replacing the bulbs, and I checked the fuses. Is there something else I can try?
Your Tail-lights and your Brake lights get their power through your dash light switch, as do your running lights, so I will assume you have power to this switch.
Check that each of the wires from the switch gets power, first of all, to assure your light switch is good.
From your symptoms and investigation so far, I would suspect this switch, if the fuses are good. By the way, you know in some models of the Adventurer there is a fuse panel in the dash area in addition to what you have under the hood?
I have one car & 2 trailers. A boat trailer & a utility trailer. When I plug the car into the boat trailer, everything works as it should. When I plug the same car into the utility trailer, the marker light come on & the left brake & signal light work, but not the right brake or signal light. The bulb is good. What else can it be?
Trailers, especially boat trailers are famous for developing bad ground connections to the chassis. Check the wiring and if the ground connections to the chassis are oxidized and need cleaning.
I have a new battery, converter, thermostat and wire in my RV. I get 14.2VDC all around, give or take .1V. At the control box where they plug in I get nothing, with or without turning on fan, AC or both. Could the new thermostat be defective? If I unplug the ground from the thermostat, the ground reads 14.2VDC. Everything else works perfectly fine.
If your voltages are in the 14.2 VDC range that means your converter is operating and is charging your battery. As the battery becomes fully charged, this voltage will slowly drop to around 13.5 VDC, until you put a load on it. SO, make sure your battery does take a charge after a while.
By the way, if you are measuring from the GROUND WIRE of the thermostat to the RV GROUND and get any voltage measurement at all then you have a ground problem, which can be dangerous if not fixed. I would make sure of my GROUND and COMMON connections and then make the voltage measurements to figure out what's going on. From what you have told me, you have a ground connection problem.
I'm a new camper owner. I have it at a permanent location. I ran a 30 amp outlet out to the location. When I plugged the cable into the camper from the outlet, I encountered some issues. When testing the camper's receptacles; all showed hot, and the ground was reversed. And this is with all (6) breakers turned off. Using a multimeter, I measured the voltage on the wire coming out of the breaker (with them OFF); 4 of them read 120V; 1 read 105V, and the other had 20V. Do you have any advice?
Well, first of all, make sure that the electrician who ran the new wire and outlet box did so according to code.
It sounds like it wasn't. Get those GROUND and COMMON wires appropriately fixed at the source end, and I would even put a ground stake into the ground wherever you mounted your outdoor receptacle box for the camper. A good ground is very essential for safety reasons, especially in campers of course and it looks like you have a hazardous situation if you do not have a good ground connection.
Hopefully, you haven't damaged any of your appliances or other equipment in your camper.
Once you get your source wiring fixed, I suspect your camper will be OK.
If I put a gas generator on my camper to run lights and charge battery I won't need a converter right?
Sorry, but an CONVERTER uses 110-VAC to charge your campers batteries. This in turn allow you to turn the generator OFF for hours at a time and just run on the batteries.
We purchased a 2003 RV. We ran a cable so we could have cable TV at the campground. We got the TV working, but now the cab fans (metal driver and passenger fans) will not work. Any suggestions on what to check? They worked prior.
First of all, your fans over the driver area are usually powered by the CHASSIS (engine) 12-VDC. So, I would check the internal 12-VDC fuse panel which provides power for these internal dash equipment.
Why do I have 130+ volts at my RV receptacles?
That's a little high and could cause some of your accessories or appliances to be damaged. Typically, you should have 110-VAC. You need to complain to the campground about their high voltage. I recommend that you have a Surge Protector inline with your campground power that can monitor this condition.
I have a 1989 30-foot Chevy Coachman Classic, what should be the original battery set-up? If it's a double battery set up, how should it be correctly connected if I have the battery disconnect button switch near the driver's side door? How can I ensure the chassis and coach relays to the battery are correct as well?
If you have a double battery setup, it is probably 2- 6-volt batteries. This is often done because you get more current storage for your 12-VDC system. They are tied in series, and then there is a ground from the negative end of one battery to ground. The other end (positive) is connected to the disconnect switch.
That button next to your door is far too small to handle any current load at all, so it controls a larger solenoid which can handle the higher current when the button is used.
This would be your COACH battery system which provides the 12-VDC for your internal equipment including your internal lights.
Your COACH battery is under your hood, but it does also have a disconnect switch system so that your engine battery does not drain while the RV is in storage.
And then there is the AUX switch typically somewhere on your dash. Pressing and holding this switch connects the two 12-VDC systems together in case the engine battery is dead.
I had my RV plugged into a dedicated 15-amp circuit using an adaptor. All of my RV's appliances, lights, and outlets were working fine. Then we spent the night out there and the heat kicked on all night. In the morning the GFI powering the outlet from the house tripped. Now every time I try to power the trailer back up, I hear a clicking next to the panel. Everything works off the generator, and the 12-volt items seem to work. I think it's some kind of relay issue, but what do you think?
First of all, your furnace runs on propane and 12-VDC, which is supplied by the coach batteries, which are in turn charged by the RV converter (charger).
Of course, the heat is controlled by your heat/AC control panel which is also powered by the 12-VDC.
I recommend resetting your GFI because everything works off of the generator. I suspect that you have a problem with your RV's 15-amp breaker, or you might possibly have a ground problem with your RV breakers kicking out.
I have a 2018 Rockwell 22" Mini Lite trailer. What is your advice on what to do when not using the trailer? Is it ok to continue shore power for weeks while at home, or should I disconnect the batteries?
Many people will stay in their RV year-round, they're called full-timers. So, NO it isn't a problem keeping your RV hooked to shore power for long periods of time. I do recommend that you do the following;
1- if your trailer has a "Coach" battery, check it every couple of months to make sure it has plenty of water in it.
2- check the trailer tires every 2-3 months, to make sure there is no "slow leak" from sitting so long.
3- Check your roof twice a year to make sure that the gaskets around all of the roof equipment are not stiff or cracked.
The 110V circuits in my RV are not working with either shore or generator power. I’ve reset the breakers and the GFCI. I unplugged it from shore, and with the generator running, I measured 110V across the line and neutral terminals labeled “Primary,” “Aux” and “Load” on the Transfer Relay Delay (TRD). Does 110V on Primary and Aux terminals at the same time indicate a faulty TRD? With 110V on the “Load,” but no power at the receptacles, where does my problem lie?
If you have your shore power unplugged, then there should only be power on the aux terminals, and with the generator off and plugged into shore power, only the primary terminals should have power.
I'm having an issue with trying to install a 3500-watt pure sine inverter in my 2000 Winnebago Adventurer. Just to test it, I hard wired the inverter to the 30A power cord of the MH before I went to the work of installing a transfer switch and sub panel. Why would the GFI's in the MH trip?
First of all, most people will only use a 1000-1500 Watt Inverter. Using a really high powered one will suck your COACH batteries down fast. Most motorhomes will only use an inverter to power their TV's, and maybe provide power to a receptacle near the dash so a computer can be used while going down the road.
So, the first thing I would check is that I have a really good Ground connection on the 110VAC side to the motorhome chassis. Remember, a GFI breaker senses any low current leakage between the COMMON wiring of your RV and the actual ground connection.
Therefore, assuming your previous inverter was wired right, I cna only suspect your temporary wiring.
Check this out.
I have a new RV that blows the 30-Amp fuse in the front of the unit when I plug or unplug to the land power. On a five-week vacation, I had to replace it fourteen times. The RV repair from the dealership is to wire in a 30-Amp resettable fuse screwed to the frame. This does not seem right to me. I believe there is a problem with the wiring. Is there a staple or screw that may have been put through the wiring?
If your NEW RV has a 30-Amp service, then I assume it is a small travel trailer because most RV's now have a 50-AMp service.
The manufacturer did not do you any favors using a fuse for your input service because it will do just what you are experiencing, blow the fuse.
So, what is happening to you is that you are drawing too much current overall, and you need to learn how to manage your power usage. You see, some of your RV appliances, like your AC can draw a surge current that if you are near your 30-Amp limit, might blow your input fuse.
The good thing is that your dealer did put a BREAKER in the circuit so that it can be reset, rather than you having to replace a fuse.
The bad thing is that you really need to figure out what you are using in your Rv that is using so much current. I have written a Hub that lists the typical current drawn by most common RV appliances, and sometimes, you just have to turn OFF one appliance while you use another high current one.
What would cause an engine to cut out while driving? It has been running perfectly fine. The engine turns over, but won't fire.
The first thing I would check would be the fuel filter, and replace it. The next thing I would check would be that the fuel pump is functioning properly.
If you aren't comfortable under the hood of a vehicle, then I feel you are best served going to your local mechanic that you trust and have them check the problems out for you.
I need help with an issue; my 2095 Allegro Bus is failing to start. All details were noted in a comment submitted moments ago. I wait to start, and the light comes on after turning the ignition key, but no cranking. The batteries are charged, I have a nearly full tank of gas, etc. The weather has been frigid here, with lots of rain and wind last night. We are stuck in a Walmart parking lot. What should I do?
When a diesel is in "Wait to Start" mode, it is heating the engines' "glow plugs" before it tries to crank the engine. If your engine battery is low, then the typical diesel will not start.
Does your engine have a 110-VAC heater coil built in? If so, try to start your diesel generator, and then plug your engine heater coil into a receptacle. This will warm your engine block after a while. You should have some diesel status lights o your dash to tell you when things are OK to start.
I moved into a small trailer. The built-in fridge and microwave do not work, but the outlets do. Where do I start to get the hose running again?
The microwave runs on 110-VAC, like the receptacles, while the fridge (if it's a 2-way) runs on either 110-VAC or propane. Try it on propane (LP). But remember, your fridge control circuit board runs to your trailer's 12-VDC battery.
I have a 2007 Class A Coachman Mirada 350DBS, and the refrigerator light is on but not cooling. Also, the breaker is tripped and won't reset when I turn off/on. Is the breaker bad?
If your fridge is a 2-way, then try it in Propane mode. If that doesn't work either, then your fridge circuit control board could be bad. So, before going to the circuit board, go outside and behind the fridge. Remove the exterior weather cover behind the fridge, and check that you have 110-VAC at the receptacle that the fridge is plugged into. If the voltage is there when the fridge is unplugged, then you have a fridge problem overloading the 110-VAC of the RV.
Everything I plug in my RV has stopped working. Whether it's my microwave, fridge or lamp; I plug something in, and it blows. I have it run to a 220v 40 amp breaker off my shop. What could be the issue?
Well, I assume your RV had operated properly when it was plugged into campground power.
With that said, you have a problem with your receptacle wiring in your shop. Check to make sure both your GROUND and COMMON are wired properly. I've seen this before, and the guy was butting 220-VAC onto their 110-VAC RV circuit. You need to fix this immediately, and hope that you have not blown up your RV Power Control panel, as well as other built-in accessories.
We have a 2004 DoubleTree mobile suite. The bedroom lights, awning and thermostat are not working. Do you know why this may be?
I once owned a 2005 DoubleTree. All of the things you listed run on 12-VDC, which comes from the RV battery, which is charged by the built-in Converter (Charger). So first, make sure that your RV battery is charged and has water in it. This is the number one problem with RV batteries; low water. Then check the fuse panel, but I suspect your battery.
The rocker switch on the slide in my RV keeps burning up. Any ideas?
Without knowing anything else about your RV, I am going to say that you need to check out the control module for that slide.
In the newer RV's each slide is controlled by a module that the manufacturer can help you locate.
This module, with most RV's, is the same for each slide. So, the first thing you should do is swap this slides module with one of the modules that control your other slides. If the rocker switch burns up after a swap, then you need to look at the drive mechanism for that slide.
I have a 1999 Safari Zanzibar, and I keep tripping a breaker every time I put it on the shore power. It trips the circuit within seconds. I can only run it off of our house batteries. What do you think this is?
First of all, unplug everything in your RV and try to plug in the shore power. If it still kicks the shore power breaker, then you most likely have a GROUND problem. One thing though; how are your batteries getting charged with your shore power doesn't work? The RV's Converter (Charger) keeps your batteries charged. And it runs on 10-VAC from shore power.
I just changed the battery rack of my RV. Now, I have no inside power. I cant run the slides out, nor can I run the AC. Why is this?
Go back and check your wiring of the batteries and make sure you have not rewired things improperly. This is easy to do.
When I was getting in my camper barefoot, I got a slight tingle or shock when I touched the metal door handle. I looked at my AC voltage detector and discovered that the exterior skin was hot. Is this a bad ground? I turned off the main breaker, and it was still hot. Do you have any thoughts on what is going on?
This is typically a sign of a bad ground connection somewhere. The first thing I would do is call the campground office and have them send one of their techs out. I suspect they have a bad ground at your campsite power box or the underground power line to the box. These lines, as well as the connectors in the campsite power box, can oxidize and the wires can degrade over time and cause such a problem.
This one is dangerous, so contact them right away.
Why would the AC breaker only pop? Its been doing that a lot lately, Once I flip the breaker back on, All is good. Yet, these sweltering days in Arizona has been hard on it, and the breaker will pop.
Your AC breaker could be getting Hot! It is not unusual in really Hot weather, for your AC to run nearly all of the time, which means that the breaker is handling more current, more of the time.
You could also be experiencing drops in the voltage from your campsite power source to your RV, as everyone in the campground is operating their own AC units more of the time during the day.
Put a meter on your campsite power and keep an eye on it. It is not unusual for a campground's power to vary greatly.
So, check these things for the solution to your problem.
I own a 2011 Keystone Laredo 291tg. Lately my overhead lights will turn off and I lose power to most items. The TV remains on but I lose DVD etc. Battery was checked at an automotive store and found to be fine. No breakers or fuses are showing that they are blown. I was going to test voltage on convertor but not sure where to attach voltage meter. Convertor seems very hot but fan eventually kicks on. Anything I could be missing?
OK, First of all, if your RV's battery(s) are original, then you need to test them properly.
1- Check that the battery(s) have water in them
2- Check that all wires attached to these batteries are tight and not damaged.
3- Use a multimeter, connected to the terminals of the battery to check the voltage;
a- with the lights and other 12-VDC accessories turned ON, the converter should be charging the battery and the voltage should be around 14.5 volts or so. If the voltage is down at around 13 volts or lower then your converter is not charging.
Once the battery is charged the voltage (with everything turned OFF) should settle in at around 13.5 volts or so, never down at 12.5 volts or lower
As to your accessories, I wouldn't get distracted by them until you have your 12-VDC system functioning properly.
I have a 96 Itasca Suncruiser. I was running the generator, and there were too many things running at once, so I lost the power. Now, if the camper is plugged in, I have power, but otherwise, I do not. I checked all the breakers that I can find on the generator, and in the camper unit. I am not sure as to why I still have no power when the generator is running. Am I missing a main breaker somewhere?
First of all, understand that your Power Control panel selects between either Shore Power or Generator Power, but never allows both at one time.
So, the most probable cause for the panel not switching over to the Generator power is the probability that it is not getting adequate 12-VDC from the RV COACH battery(s) so that it can control the power sensing and switching.
Check that your coach battery has water and is fully charged.
I have a 2016 travel trailer with a new battery that reads 12.5 volts at the posts. When disconnected from shore power, I have 12v at the switches for my two slides. All other 12v circuits (awning, LED lights, etc.) have 3v or less, so they don't operate. When connected to shore power everything works. All fuses are good and wire lugs in the panel are tight. What would cause this?
First of all, if you only have 12.5 volts across the battery terminals then the battery is not charged, nor is it being charged by the Converter (charger). You should read around 13.5 VDC across a fully charged battery and as much as 14.5 volts when the charger is running.
The awning slides and interior lights of your travel trailer operate on your coach battery.
So, you need to check that your shore power is connected and that the battery is being charged, and that it has water in it. If these things are OK, then your battery should be charging and things should be functioning.
Make sure that when you are checking these voltages, other than across the battery terminals, that you have a good connection to ground for your meter reading to be right.
I have a 1995 Winnebago Vectra that the 12-volt lights work when the motorhome is plugged in or the engine is running but they don't work when everything is off. The batteries have 12.6 volts when tested. Why won't the 12 volts light and where do I start to check for the problem?
The COACH battery(s) provide the 12-VDC System inside your RV. They power your interior lights, fridge control circuit board, your Alarms, your temperature control circuit board and other things.
The battery is kept charged by the built-in Converter(charger) that operates on 110-VAC (external power) and when the voltage is actually at 12.5 VDC or lower the battery is NOT charged. You should measure around 14.5 VDC or so, if the charger is running and around 13.5 VDC if it is charged.
You should check that the battery is being charged first, then if it is but the voltage is LOW as I mentioned, check the battery for water and check the date on it. It could just be ready for replacement.
PS. - The engine running should have nothing to do with your interior lights operation or the charging of your COACH battery.
I have a 2007 Forest River Georgetown XL that disconnects the batteries via the battery disconnect switch by itself when I attempt to start the onboard ONAN 5500 Generator. The generator does not start (When I jump the generator via a battery right at the generator +/- posts, it starts). After the disconnect switch trips, it will not connect when I toggle it up. After about 10 minutes, something in the BBC resets, and I can toggle to disconnect switch up and connect the batteries to the coach?
Your explanation is a little confusing. But, first of all, Your two battery disconnect switches are for your COACH battery and your Engine battery when you are storing your RV, so the batteries do not get drained over time.
Your Power Control Panel utilizes your COACH 12-VDC battery to operate, and it senses whether there is SHORE power. If so, when you start your generator, this panel will control some solenoids that make sure that you never have both Shore power and Generator power at the same time. My best guess is that your COACH battery is NOT fully charged, or may not be getting charged. You should make sure that this battery and charging system is operating properly first of all.
Don I have a 2018 heartland Mallard and the AC works fine but if I shifted to heat on the thermostat it keeps blowing the fuse. Any ideas as to why this would happen?
I'm not sure which fuse you're talking about? The AC's 110-VAC fuse? or the Furnace 12-VDC fuse?
Your temperature control panel is supposed to turn OFF the AC's power and turn ON the Furnace's 12-VDC power. These functions are done by controlling a couple of solenoids.
So, first of all check which fuse is being blown before you dive into the problem.
We have a 2017 Jayco pop up trailer. The electric brake system and the brake/signal lights are not working when we connect it to our van. When it is connected to the house, all is fine. My husband thinks it has something to do with the 12-volt system. All fuses and connections seem fine? Thoughts? Unfortunately, we are discovering this as we were pulling out of our driveway for the first camping trip of the year.
When you are plugged into your house, you aren't using the vehicle towing connector. So, the first thing you should do is check the wiring from your trailer tow connector to the trailer lights and look for broken wires or shorts. If it's OK, then check the voltages at your vans connector. Sometimes, people will wire these connectors improperly. Ask yourself, did this van and trailer combination of tow connector wiring work OK in the past?
My parents have a section of low voltage lighting in their camper that would pulse. I thought it was a bad switch, so I replaced it to no avail. I have 12v at the switch until the new switch is hooked up, until then will I have no voltage present?
You will not measure voltage across an electrical switch when it is closed. As to your light pulsing problem this often happens when your Coach batteries are not charging properly and the Converter (Charger) is cycling ON and OFF to maintain the 12-VDC for the internal RV lights and other equipment.
I have a 1998 Itasca MH. One of the 110V circuits ( 5 receptacles) went out suddenly when we were parked. The circuit breaker was not tripped. I checked, and it is working. Is there something I can check to locate the problem?
Are these receptacles part of your GFI circuit? Check that the main GFI receptacle has not kicked out.
Does the TV outlet in an RV require a fuse?
If you're talking about the 110-VAC outlet that the RV TV plugs into, then yes, it will get its power from one of the 110-VAC breakers in the typical motorhome.
Why does the microwave in my RV keep shutting off about every two minutes?
First, are any other 110-VAC appliances having problems? If not you should focus on the microwave, but if other appliances also have problems, then you should check out your 110-VAC power source, which I assume is a campsite power box. Have the campground maintenance people check out their power system at your campsite.
On the other hand, if the problem is only with your microwave, then you should, first of all, make sure that you do not have too many appliances running and limiting the source power of your RV equipment.
Can you tell me which fuse each thing in my R.V. uses? For example, what fuse does a slide out air conditioner pump use? Also, where is the best place to buy golf cart batteries?
Your question is impossible to answer with what you have told me. But, your RV slide operates on the engines 12-VDC, while the AIR uses 12-VDC to its control panel, but the AC actually runs on 110VAC, and each AC has a breaker of its own due to the high current it draws.
Some people purchase batteries made specifically for Golf Carts due to the carts propensity to draw the batteries down often. What is really needed is a reliable "deep discharge" battery that is manufactured to take numerous recharges and to take the physical abuse of bouncing around on a field essentially.
Our electric step doesn't work. Where is the fuse located for it?
Your information is scarce for me to help you very much but, here goes. Your Electric step runs on your motorhome's engine power, and there is usually a 12-VDC fuse panel inside the RV under the dash somewhere depending on the brand and model.
BUT, you should check a few other things;
1- the steps are activated by a magnetic switch attached to the entrance door, check that the magnet (on the door) and the switch have not been knocked loose.
2- there is a control switch for the electric step usually mounted at the entrance. (read the owner's manual on how it works.)
3- Then you should check that you have power to your step. One indicator that there is power is that the safety light under the top step is operating.
I have a 1978 Class C Jayco RV (Dodge Sportsman). I have had the AC running before on a standard extension cord with no problems. I had it plugged in recently, and the AC worked for a while, and then the breaker tripped, and I could not reset it until later that day, presumably after it cooled down. Now, the breaker is reset, and everything else turns on in the camper but the AC. Does the roof unit have its own internal breaker? Is it going to be a hot rest of the summer?
Typical roof AC units will draw more current as they age and the compressor motor, fan motor wear out. And, as they age the initial Surge current increases which then kicks the breakers.
As to your question, normally there is no internal fuse or breaker. From your symptoms of an overheated breaker, and considering the age of your RV's AC, I would first change the breaker out, being the cheapest option, and if this didn't fix the problem, I would consider having a tech check out the AC for a bad compressor.
I can hear a buzzing noise coming from one of the circuit breakers, but everything is working. Should I be concerned?
You haven't given me a lot of information, but regardless, I can say that circuit breakers do not make any kind of noise. Have you determined which breaker is doing this by alternately turning each one OFF?
I have a Jayco talon Toy Hauler, and my fuel station won't dispense fuel anymore when I turn it on inside the hauler the panel buzzes and the fuel station will make a noise but never pumps any fuel. Do you think it might be a bad ground wire?
Some of these TH's actually use automobile fuel tanks that have the fuel pump built into the inside of the tank. Others have external fuel pumps like with a motorhome and its generator.
Check if you have an external fuel pump and an external fuel filter on it. Often the fuel filter will clog up or "gum up" and need to be replaced.
Replace the fuel filter and then check that the fuel pump operates properly. This would be the most likely cause of your problem; a bad fuel filter.
My A/C is coming on every 10 to 15 minutes, and everything is shut right; no air pockets anywhere. Why is it coming on so often? I have it set on auto and cool, and at 79, but it's so cold in my RV.
The first thing you should do is check your walls and find the sensor for your temperature control panel. It will usually be either near your control panel, if it is centrally located or it will be near the center of the RV at chest high. This sensor must be open, and airflow is going by it must be unencumbered. Some people I have met put a small fan in their RV so that there will be decent air flow.
Next, I don't know how old your Rv is, but all Air Conditioners can only put out so much cool air, and it cycles when the temperature at the sensor says it has dropped below the limit you have set.
It serves no purpose for an owner to set a temperature limit that makes your AC run continually. By running all of the time, your AC is telling you its limited capability. So, you should set the temperature control to a temperature where your AC only cycles once aver half an hour or so. This is a point where it can cool and not use so much electricity and not end up freezing up.
I suspect that your temperature sensor is blocked so check that first, and then see of the unit is frozen and then set the thermostat to a realistic setting for your AC to achieve.
I have a 2006 Triple E Embassy that we've had for about five months. The unit has 64,000 k and has been really well looked after. I'm hearing a clicking sound coming from under the passenger side dash about every ten minutes. Sounds like a circuit breaker type sound. There's no shore power hooked up at this time. Is this normal?
On my 2006 Bounder, I have some large fuses and relays in the exterior compartment below the passenger seating area. I assume your RV is wired similarly.
I have had a similar clicking sound in my Rig, and it was usually related to my DC Voltage level going to the 12-VDC electronics like my Surround Sound System, the Inverter, and such. Honestly, I have never been able to find the actual cause myself while hooked to Shore power in a campsite.
I have a 2008 Fleetwood Fiesta 36T. I do not have either shore power or generator power inside the coach. I Reset the breakers, no change. I had power up until I switched the second A/C unit over from fan to cool, then power tripped off. Is there a master fuse somewhere?
I assume you're in a campground, so the first thing to check is if the campsite power panel's breaker switches have tripped on you. This often happens to campers, so always go back to your power source, the campsite power panel, and make sure they are providing you with adequate power and that it is turned ON.
There are no fuses in your AC-Voltage system, only breakers.
You can also check your external power cable and make sure that the terminals are not oxidized, as this can reduce the power to your RV. Also, check that the cable is not damaged or frayed wiring is showing.
If all is good at this point, remember that your power control panel, as well as your temperature control panel and other equipment; operates on your Coach batteries for 12-VDC, so make sure they are charged properly so it can sense available sources power and then switch sources properly.
Make sure you have this 12-VDC before you get into any other potential problems.
I have a 1997 Coleman Fleetwood pup at the 7-way connector power wire and brake wire is shorted on the trailer to the ground. Where to start troubleshooting my RV's electrical problems?
The wiring on many trailers and the connections are often open to the elements and can easily be damaged or they can oxidize over time. Typically they can be easily traced under the body of the trailer, so you should inspect them annually anyway.
First, remove the cover from the tow connector and make sure all of the wire connections are clean and tight and there are no frayed wires.
Remember that with the bulbs in any light fixtures on your trailer, your measurement will show the line is "shorted" so remove the bulbs before you start checking things out.
Then trace these wires to the electric brake/brake light and make sure the connections are in good condition and tight.
What does "high vac" mean?
Well, your question is very generic, but I can tell you that in the Air Conditioner world HVAC, or "high vac" is an abbreviation for High Volume Air Conditioning.
We have a 94(?) Security Penthouse. The interior lights seem to be hit and miss. I’ve checked the fuses, switches and bulbs with a multimeter. They all seem to be good. Plugs are all working. Do you have any suggestions?
I am not very familiar with a '94 Security Penthouse truck bed camper.
But, you can check if you have a separate battery in it for the camper lights, alarms and such. Newer models have a COACH battery and a Converter that keeps the battery charged when you are plugged into 110-VAC power.
So, check if you have a battery, and also check if it is in good condition; how old is it, does it have water, etcetera.
If you do have one and its OK, then check the Converter to make sure it is operating OK!
On the other hand, if you do not have this extra battery in your camper, then your interior lights are operating off of your engine battery. Then I would suggest that you check the cable connecting your camper to your Truck for power and make sure it is secure.
Our outside TV won't power on. It worked when we left our RV three hours ago. We are on 30amp. The three other TV's work inside. Do you have any suggestions?
Typically, outside 110-VAC power receptacles are wired to your GFCI circuit. So, the first thing I would do is check your inside Master GFCI receptacle and see if it needs to be reset.
If it isn't on a GFCI circuit, then check your AC Breaker panel for a breaker that has "kicked OFF."
The power went out on one side of the RV. The side that went out charges the batteries and now we can't start the rig. Upon checking the breakers on one circuit, the breaker has a red tab and a blue tab. What can I do to get this thing started?
Actually, in a motorhome, your engine has its own battery, and if it will not start, then the problem is with it, most likely.
You also have a switch (button) on the dash somewhere, that's usually labeled "AUX," and if you hold it down, then it connects your COACH battery to your engine battery so you can use its power to start your engine.
BUT! If you also have power loss to one side of your COACH, you also have another problem.
SO, you should check a few things to get your Rig started;
1- Is your Transmission in PARK?
2- Are your DC CUT-OFF Switches in the proper position?
3- Did you realize your exterior door light, your power awning, and your power steps operate on your Engine battery?
4- Also, check that your campsite power is ON (reset breaker), and then reset all of your RV breakers.
5- If you have 220-VAC inside your RV then check that your CONVERTER is operating and charging your COACH battery.
I have a 2018 Airstream International: The battery disconnect switch will not turn to use or store (the light won’t come on) but the inverted switch works and my batteries are fully charged. So, in turn, I cannot use my lights, fridge, water pump or furnace fan. What could be the problem with my Airstream's battery?
As you know, your interior lights, fridge control circuit board, water pump, furnace, and a few other things all operate on your 12-VDC COACH batteries.
Considering you have checked and your COACH battery disconnect switch is not functioning, you should know that the switch itself uses your battery voltage to control a high current solenoid that actually switches the battery voltage to the majority of your interior 12-VDC equipment.
I would check the DC fuse panel in your amper and make sure all of its fuses are good. If they are all OK, then I would use a multimeter and check that there is 12-VDC from your battery to the actual switch you are trying to use. The switch itself could be bad but this is not normal. But, a blown 12-VDC fuse can happen.
No ac/dc power! Breakers, fuses, batteries, gfi all working. Generator starts but shuts down immediately! However when I unplug from shore line and plug converter straight to shore 12 volt works and generator will run. Is this a short?
I am assuming that you are saying you have no-AC-to-DC power, but all of your AC systems operate properly. But, when you select your generator, it shuts down after it actually starts??
Well, with this being the case, I would suspect your COACH batteries. They provide power for the RV's Power Control Panel which detects if the generator is started and running and if this is so, it will switch the RV systems OFF of the Shore Power and onto the GENERATOR.
I suspect that when you connect your Converter alone to power, it is able to operate your DC powered circuitry, but with the COACH batteries being bad, they are loading your Converter down and without that 12-VDC available, so the Power Control Panel switches the RV circuitry back over to your Shore power.
How did you check your batteries? Was it under load? If not, batteries may show they have voltage, but they will not be able to support a real load.
So, Check those batteries and replace them if necessary.
How do I troubleshoot a T-30 switch?
Your T-30 Switch is designed to handle the switching of high current (30-Amp) loads from Shore Power to Generator Power in an RV.
It is usually controlled by 12-VDC that is itself controlled by your power control panel.
The switch is normally wired to connect the Shore Power to your RV's power breaker panel. And when you start your generator, the power control panel will sense that it is running and then will apply power to the T-30 switch so that your RV is operating on the generator.
BE CAUTIOUS! If you are trying to troubleshoot this yourself, you are dealing with some deadly current sources. With this in mind, if you are trained to deal with electrical circuits, you could place a multimeter on the low-current connections from the power control panel. You should read 0-VDC when you are on Shore Power, and you should read around 12-VDC if the power control panel senses the generator power and applies the appropriate 12-VDC. If the voltage is there, then unplug your Shore Power cable, and everything should operate OK on the generator. If not, then your switch is probably bad and should be replaced.
Again, BE CAUTIOUS or hire a qualified Electrician to do this for you to be safe.
I had a propane refrigerator in my RV catch on fire, and it did a lot of electrical damage to the bunch of wires located in the refrigerator area. I removed the appliance, and now I can't find the origin or the destination of about fourteen wires. They are mostly 100-volt, with some 12-volts. What do I do?
Your fridge only has two electrical connections that are not a part of the fridge itself; 110-VAC and 12-VDC.
All of the other wires are part of the fridge itself.
I wouldn't try to fix the fridge. If the electrical fire was bad enough to melt the wiring, you probably also have a bad control circuit board which will cost you at least $150 to $200 for the replacement part.
Also, if you had a propane fire, then the propane "stack" will probably be damaged, and the replacement part cost for this is usually around $800.
These costs alone are high enough to justify a replacement Fridge.
But, here's a long shot for you if you insist on trying to repair the fridge yourself; contact the fridge manufacturer and see if they have an electrical diagram of the wiring and maybe that will help you figure out the wiring. You see, most people never need this level of technical information to get their Fridge working.
I have a 1999 Holiday Rambler Admiral. All fuses, resistor, are good, however, I have no power going to the fan switch on the dash for the blower for heat. There are no signs of broken or loose connections. Do you have any suggestions?
Your dash heater and its blower are powered by your engine battery. So, it has a fuse mounted in the fuse box that holds the fuses for the dash and engine equipment.
Typically, there is one fuse box under the hood that has the higher current fuses for the engine equipment. But, there is another fuse panel typically mounted under your dash that has more fuses for equipment on your dash such as; heater control, heater fan, front AC fan, dash radio, and other such equipment.
I suspect that if you find that fuse panel and check it for a blown fuse, you will fix your problem.
But, keep in mind that your heater/fan can wear out, and if the fuse blows again, you may need to have the electrical assembly replaced.
The galley, bathroom, and left exterior light on my lance lite 835 camper are not working. The GFCI in the kitchen has no power going to it. We have checked the fuses and the breakers and the power converter. We are currently checking the switches themselves. Do you have any ideas what the problem may be?
As I understand it, your Exterior lights on the left side are not working? Well, these lights are powered by your engine battery just as your other exterior lights are.
Your gallery, bathroom and GFCI circuits are all powered by your AUX or House battery which is kept charged by your Converter when your camper is plugged into the campsite power.
So, check that your AUX battery is fully charged.
Next, check the MASTER GFCI and see if it needs to be reset because this GFCI provides power to your other Slave GFCI receptacles.
I have a total 12-volt failure. Nothing with tow vehicle power, nothing with battery power. I have a 12-volt with shore power through a converter. What is it?
Your Converter uses your external 110-VAC power to generate 12-VDC primarily to keep our COACH battery charged. This battery must be in good condition, and it must take charge.
One of the more common problems people have in motorhomes, and the larger trailer campers is to leave their 12-VDC CUT-OFF switch (used for storage) in the wrong position. Check yours.
And, your tow-vehicle power is typically only used for a limited number of accessories and not for everything that runs on 12-VDC in your trailer. Some trailers are wired to use the tow vehicle power, but it's a special condition.
If the Cut-off switch isn't the problem, you need to check your tow cable for oxidation on the contacts or loose wires.
My 2008 Conquest Gulfstream 50 amp rig is plugged in at a new campground. The appliances shut off then turn back on. The house battery is dead and still not registering electrical from the pole Any ideas?
First, how old is your COACH battery? Does it have water in it? I your CONVERTER operating and keeping your COACH battery charged?
Your COACH batteries are the heart of your RV electrical systems, so make sure they are functioning properly.
Now, if you do have power at the campsite power panel but not at your RV breaker panel? Then, of course the most likely problem is your RV power cord? Check the cords contacts for oxidation or a buildup of carbon from arcing, and clean them. Also check the cord for loose or damaged wires.
I also recommend that you purchase a good Surge Protector. These devices can monitor your external power for surges and high currents to protect your RV from bad campground power as well as well as weather-caused problems.
All AC power has stopped working in my 1962 GM 4106 Conversion. There is no generator or shore power; only battery power. Do you have any idea what is wrong?
I'm not familiar with 1962 designs for conversions, but the newer ones will have a power control panel that senses the presence of generator power and then operate a solenoid that connects to the generator and disconnects the exterior shore power. This power control panel requires that your 12-VDC be good to operate properly.
So, make sure that your battery is fully charged.
What is the problem if I have no power to my 110-VAC outlets?
Some of your 110-VAC outlets are on your GFCI circuit, and you should check your Master GFCI for a RESET switch.
This is one of the more common causes of this problem.
My 1999 Monaco Cummins diesel started up but after retracting the leveling jacks and the room slide out, and we connected to a power 50 amp, everything works but it won’t start. What do you think the problem is?
First , make sure your CUT-OFF switches for your Coach (AUX) and Chassis (MAIN) switches are in the right positions.
Second, your generator gets its power for starting from your COACH batteries, so check that these are fully charged and that you have adequate voltage (around 13.5 to 14.5 VDC) going to the generator starter.
If the voltage is there, the generator should crank and start for you.
The most common cause for this problem is; 1- the Cut-Off switches or 2- the Coach batteries are either dead or low on water, or not =being charged by your Converter, considering the fact that it gets 110-VAC for operation from your Shore power.
I have a 1997 fifth wheel. Up until last month everything worked great. Now, the fridge won’t work (the breaker and fuse seem fine,) and now the 15amp dude for the slide out pops immediately after flipping the breaker on. I will take it in soon as I have other thing I want fixed but I need to get through 1 last camping trip this year. Do you have any suggestions?
Check your Camper battery. It sounds like it may be bad or not taking charge. Your Fridge control circuit board operates on your 12-VDC, as well as your slide.
So; How old is your battery? Have you checked the battery water level? Is it taking charge form your Converter?
This kind of problem is common as people tend to not keep an eye on their camper battery.
I purchased a 2018 Château Tour RV. I drove it home, and I noticed a yellow wire hanging down on the ground by my propane tank. What do I do?
If the wire hanging down is under the Propane tank, it might be the metering wire that goes to your tank meter inside your RV. Check if the meter gauge is working. Regardless of whether that's the wire or not, you need to take your RV back to the dealer and have them fix your problem, right away.
On my camper, the battery is fully charged, but the lights in the camper will not come on. When hooked up to my generator, everything works fine. What is the problem?
First of all, is your 12-VDC Cut-Off switch turned OFF so that you have voltage to your interior lights?
Secondly, while on Shore power, is your Converter operating? It should be trying to charge your Coach battery and if you use a voltmeter across the battery, you should read around 14.5-VDC if the Converter is charging the battery, around 13.5-VDC of the battery is charged, but if you read around 12.5-VDC, then your battery is not charged, and the Converter is not trying to charge the battery.
It's strange but from your symptoms with everything working great when on Generator power, and with the lights not working when on Shore power, I would suspect that either one of your breakers in your campsite power box is OFF, or your power supplied by the Shore campsite panel is really low. You can check the battery, and you can have the campsite check their power to your camper.
I have a 2015 Thor Four Winds 31C c-class motor home. The RV has been in my driveway connected to a 30 amp 115 volt circuit. I start it and run the generator on a monthly basis. This morning, I did the same and the A/C, the refrigerator and bathroom circuits, including the 12-volt lights, did not work with the generator running. All the fuses are good. The slide works. Do you have any suggestions?
I would check the COACH battery, not the chassis battery, but the Coach battery.
Check if it has water in it and that it is still good. Often people ignore this battery and it can go bad over time.
Normally, this battery provides the interior 12-VDC that powers the things you mention and you have a Converter that keeps this battery charged.
If the battery is good then I would suspect that the Converter is not operating properly.
But, your best bet is your COACH battery.
As to the problems only showing when your generator is running, I suspect that a good battery will make this go away also.
Everything works except the starter will not turn over. When I arrived at the RV I started the diesel and lifted up the leveling extensions and slide out room was retracted and everything works except the ignition. What is the cause?
You didn't mention some pertinent information, but let me give you a few hints of things for you to check.
1- Most motorhomes will not start if the emergency brake is not engaged so check yours.
2- Diesel motorhome engines are very high compression motors, and it takes a lot of currents to turn them over. So, check your engine battery (s) and make sure they are fully charged.
These two things are the most likely causes of your problem.
I have a 2013 Coachmen Leprechaun and I changed out the Safe T Alert co/ lip alarm and now I cannot get my slide to retract in. What should I check?
Your Alarm wiring has nothing to do with your slide wiring.
I would assume you have something else as the cause for your slide problem.
Try checking that your emergency brake is ON and that your transmission is in PARK. Either of these not being the case could cause your slide not to work.
Also, make sure your COACH (AUX) Cut-Off switch is not ON.
When I plug my 30 amp cord into an extension cord it sparks. The prongs on the travel trailer cord and the receptacle on the extension cord have become burned and melted. What could be causing my cord to spark and how could I fix it?
Your 30-AMP RV Power cord has a 4-wire connector. It provides 220-VAC which is split inside your RV to 2 110-VAC systems.
You should not use other extension cords to adapt your RV power cord. Instead always use an adapter designed especially for RV's.
As to your burned RV cord, and if the cord itself seems to be OK, you need to cut off the burned connector and get a new connector that you can wire to the remaining cord. But I personally would replace the Rv power cord and not take any chances.
You also need to make sure there was not any damage to your AC power panel or the breakers and wiring in the breaker panel.
I seem to have an unknown draw or short in my system in my 1989 Allegro. I have shut all my breakers off, unplugged my converter, and shut off all my 110 breakers. I have an off-grid system with a 3000/6000 watt inverter running 2 RV's. I've been running 2 for more than six months. Today my RV started tripping the inverter with a draw or a short within a few seconds of plugging it in. I have 12 batteries charged by a 3000 watt 80 amp mppt solar charger. Any ideas on what the issue may be?
Your system sounds great, BTW!
The first thing I would do is go through my battery bank and make sure each one; 1- has water in it and 2- is taking a charge. Remember your batteries are probably going through deep discharge cycles quite often, which can make the weak ones go bad at times. What I am saying is that your Inverter may not now have enough input from your batteries to handle your 2-RV load at times?? It's worth checking anyway as these are your long-term weak link in your system.
Once you're confident in your batteries status, and if the problem still exists, I would check the Inverter itself because you said you had turned OFF all of your Breakers si there should be NO LOAD on the Inverter under these conditions.
But, I still go back to your batteries as the most probable cause of your problem. Question: do you have a current meter on your solar charger output? And if so, do you keep a log of the reading every day or so? This could give you an indication if one or more of your batteries starts to go bad or had the plates degrade or short.
I purchased a 2000 Isata Motor Home and there’s no gas coming to the generator, what could the problem be?
First of all, you should replace the fuel filter and the fuel pump to your generator. These go bad or get "gummed up" often.
Your RV generator's fuel input line only goes down 3/4 of the way into your gas tank. So, make sure you have at least 1/4 tank of gas so your generator will get fuel.
I have a 2017 Jayco pull-behind, and we had to have the water heater replaced a year ago. It is now throwing the 2-Amp fuse. Do we need to return to mfg?
I'm surprised that a water heater has a fuse value of only 2-Amp. I think that is wrong and you should check your JAYCO customer service and see what the actual value should be.An RV water heater is a "fast heating" appliance and i think the fuse should be significantly higher than just 2-Amps.
I have a travel trailer. I took it out on Labor Day. Before leaving, we did our normal prep work: we got the fridge going, and cooled it down for food and such. We have a 30 amp on our trailer and used our normal house GFI outlet and an adapter to hook up the camper. It worked well! But earlier this week, when I plugged the camper in, it tripped the breaker. How do I fix this?
I had this happen to me once, and it turned out I had oxidation and some char on my power cable contacts. I had to use fine sandpaper to get the contacts cleaned.
Your GFI is not very forgiving when it comes to running a long cable from the receptacle, so make sure your cable and your adapter connections are clean and fit tightly.
Why does the fan stay on in the fuse box when I plug it into 110, and not when the generator is on?
Most of these interior accessories, including fans, operate on your 12-VDC COACH battery. And, there should be no difference in when an accessory operates regardless of whether it is working on external power or a generator.
The only instance that might be different might be that you have something operating on 12-VDC that is drawing a lot of currents and thus generating a lot of heat?
Sorry, but with the symptoms, you have given me, that is all I can surmise.
I have lost all exterior driving lights on my travel trailer. All fuses on the RV are good. What are other possible causes?
Considering the fact that you say ALL of your exterior driving lights do not work, I would suspect your GROUND connection from your Tow vehicle to your trailer. First, check the ground connections of the cable ends and the connectors it plugs into. Often these connections will oxidize, and often there will be arcing, and a black residue will build up. Clean these connections.
If the problem still exists, then check the actual ground wires from the connectors to the chassis of the tow vehicle and the chassis of the trailer. These could be oxidized or even loose or broken.
My 2005 topaz by triple e has some 110 outlets not working while others work just fine. There were no tripped breakers. Two outlets inside the cabin and the outdoor plugin are not working. Do you have any ideas?
Many people do not know their Rv has a GFSI circuit on it. Just like in your house a GFSI will "kick" if it senses there is a small current sensed between the common wire and the ground wire. The GFAI will only have receptacles near where a person might get shocked which is near; the kitchen, the bathroom and on the outside of your camper.
You should look for the "MASTER GFCI receptacle and reset the button on it. This should fix your problem.
I have a 1987 country coach Gfi. It has been tripping multiple times, and I cannot find the source of surge or problem. Can the Gfi be moved to a more convenient outlet? How do I find where the problem is in the circuit? It affects everything but one outlet.
Your GFCI receptacle is the master receptacle that has a few other receptacles controlled by it.
These other receptacles are usually in your bathroom and kitchen areas. Unplug anything in any receptacles, and if the Master GFCI still kicks off, then it may be bad and need to be replaced.
But, check those other SLAVE GFCI receptacles first.
2005 Keystone Cougar Travel Trailer. Recently the step light and the two spotlights have stopped working. I have checked all the obvious- bulb, GFI, fuse and cannot locate a problem. I did notice when I rechecked the fuses last night the top two 15 amp that is marked lights- when I pulled the fuse, the indicator light did not come on. Any suggestions? I am currently plugged into a 30 amp plug at my house, but noticed the problem at a recent campground stay.
First, if the step light did not come on, did the step still operate properly?
Also, assuming all other 12-Volt interior lights and accessories are working OK, the first assumption would be that you do not have power to these two fuses. That is very unlikely though. So, let's consider that your 30-Amp service actually comes from two 110-VAC lines, I would check that I had both halves of my service into the camper and to the fuse box.
I have a 2014 jay I Greyhawk. Can you give me any advice on how to fix the running lights and the backup lights?
First of all, your Jayco running lights and backup lights operate on your engine battery.
As with regular automobiles, your running lights are controlled (ON/OFF) by your dash light switch, and your backup lights are controlled by a switch on your shift lever.
BUT, I would suspect you have a couple of blown fuses.
Somewhere, under your hood or possibly under your dash there is a fuse panel that has fuses for both of these functions, so find that fuse panel and check that all of the fuses are good.
If you do have blown fuses, replace them; but your concern should then be what caused them to blow? You should check the voltage on the CHASSIS (engine) battery to make sure your alternator is working properly.
I have 2016 Flagstaff Classic Super Lite, and the Water Pump switch will not turn off. What can I do?
Most campers will have multiple Water Pump switches usually located; near the kitchen sink, in the bathroom and outside in the service centre. They are wired so that anyone switch will start or stop the water pump. Knowing this, try one of the other switches, and if they do not turn the pump OFF, then you have a problem at the Water pump itself. I would check that the wires at the pump are still connected?
I have a 2006 Alfa RV and although it is plugged in there is still no heat. What could the problem be?
First, make sure your CUT-OFF switch is in the right position so that you have 12-VDC to your interior equipment.
Then, check your COACH battery to make sure it is fully charged. Your Battery provides power to your temperature control panel and if the battery is deal or even low voltage then the panel can fail to operate properly.
Your COACH battery is kept charged by your CONVERTER and you can check if it is functioning properly.
If you check all of this and you still do not have any furnace function then, of course, you need to make sure you have propane and the propane line is turned on. Check this by lighting one of your stove burners.
If your furnace is still not functioning you need to get into the furnace itself and I recommend you get a technician to do this.
The GFi outlet in my RV trips on generator power, but works fine on shore power. What do I do?
A GFI senses if there is ANY current between the COMMON wire and the GROUND wire of the GFI system.
The best thing to check first is to turn OFF all of your Generator power (for Safety) and check the connections coming from your generator. At the generator make sure the connections are tight, and there is no oxidation at the terminals.
If they are OK, then you have to do a little wire tracing to the high current solenoid that the power control panel uses to switch between the shore power and the generator. Near that location, the manufacturer may have cut the ground and common wires and used terminals where there can be loose connections. With the symptoms, you described these checks should find your problem.
I plugged my golf cart into my putside cargo outlet and obviously i blew a fuse. My tvs wont come on and mt outlet in bathroom not working. Where should i look? I was plugged into a 50 amp when i did this
Sorry, but be aware that those exterior and most other receptcles on your RV are NOT designed for such a load as a Golf Cart.
Now, Your Rv gas a GFCI circuit which consists of; a MASTER GFCI receptacle, normally located in the bathroom or Kitchen. This receptacle, controls the AC to several other SLAVE GFCI receptacles located on the exterior of the Rv and in areas like the kitchen and Bathroom (where a user might get electrical shock) .
You should be able to reset the Master GFCI receptacle and then you would have power to your other receptacles.
As to your TV's, they usually get their power from your Inverter which is, in turn, powered by your 110-VAC. I would make sure that all of the breakers in the AC Voltage Breaker panel are reset.
After my recent furnace board replacement, I have discovered that the a/c unit will only work on high fan setting, it has stopped working on Auto or low speed. I can hear it start up but the fan on the a/c unit won't blow. Any thoughts on that or you think those two problems could be related somehow?
From your symptoms, I would think the most likely cause of your fan speed problem is one of two things;
1- When the furnace board was replaced it was connected improperly. or
2- The new furnace board is thw wrong model number or actually a bad one.
Check these options out and contact the AC manufacturer's customer service number to confirm the board is the right one.
I have continuous problems with my board going into the furnace; this only seems to happen when I plug into power. I've had the board replaced three times; it works well on dc put as soon as I plug in it works for a bit then burns out, any thoughts on that?
Your Converter could be generating a voltage to charge your COACH battery that is too high (over around 14.5 VDC). If this voltage is high enough, even for a few seconds, it could harm any of your 12-VDC appliance control boards, alarm boards, interior lights, etcetera.
Try to check this voltage at the terminals of your RV COACH battery itself and look for "spikes" when you plug the Converter into 110-VAC and turn it on.
Went to turn coach on. Nothing lit up on the dash. I replaced all three batteries. Lights on the dash now work. However the "transmission" light isn't on, but power is being supplied to it (vim box checked - power being supplied). Is the Neutral Safety switch causing the problem? If so, where is it? Is there something to be looked at UNDER the coach? Everything inside has been checked and has power. No fuses are blown. Allison Trans 3060.
First of all, I am assuming that your batteries were dead? If so, your RV computers that control everything may have lost some of their data.
Normally, most vehicles, RV's included will reset themselves within a few minutes.
Your diesel should be no exception, so after a bit, your engine should start properly if you have all of the peripheral things set right. I do not know what model Rv you own, but some things that can keep many motorhomes from starting are;
1- Is the transmission in park or Neutral?
2- Is the Emergency Brake ON?
3- Are the 2 Power CUT-OFF switches (COACH and CHASSIS) turned ON?
4- Are the Slides closed?
Check these things and then see if the engine will crank.
I have a 2016 Hideout trailer and only half of the awning lights work. What could be wrong?
Typically your Awning lights are a single strip of LED lamps with only one power source cable to the light strip.
And, the better LED strips are wired with the lamps in parallel incase one goes bad, the rest work OK.
So, look to see if your LED strip has only one wire going to it or of it has one at each end. If it has two power connectons then you need to check where the wire on the "dead' end goes and if it is plugged up.
If you have only one power lead then your LEDs are wired in series and the first one in the string that does not work, needs to be replaced, if possible.
In reality, the whole string may need to be replaced depending on the design used.
I have a 2000 Safari Continental Panther 425. Where can I find the flasher module for the turn signals?
Wow! Now that's a very product-specific question. I honestly do not know where the module is, but I can say that if you stop and look at your Rv as a truck, you should find the flasher module under the dash or under the hood. It just doesn't seem logical to run the wires for a flasher module far from the signal light lever switch.
My electrician put in a 30a plug and 240v in my RV and now nothing works. What's wrong? Fuses look good but it smoked a little before I got the power off?
Without any more information than what you gave me, I am going to assume your electrician did not wire your new 30-Amp plug properly.
And, with the presence of smoke, you might have a melted power line either outside or inside your camper at your AC-Voltage breaker panel.
Have your electrician find what was done wrong first before you get into what was damaged.
Then, when things are wired properly, you need to trace your input power wiring and check for melted insulation. Hopefully, it will all be undamaged, but most likely, you will need to rewire your AC-Voltage input wiring or possibly your input power cable.
I have a 2018 Heartland Mallard. Can you tell me if I have more than 1 GFCI outlet?
Your RV should have one master GFCI, usually in your bathroom near the sink. It could also have one GFCI slave receptacle in the Kitchen and near the sink. And it could have one outside.
These are the places that a person could be using an appliance and also be touching the ground.
I have a '69 holiday rambler that I bought and rebuilt in 2016. I also rewired it. Only was it this past year, I couldn't plug it into a generator. I burnt up mine. I then burnt up another one of a friend's. But then got another one that had some kind of breaker built in and it did throw it every time I plugged it in. Do you have any ideas what could be wrong?
Here's a question for you:
If you turn everything that operates on AC-Voltage to OFF, even unplug anything in the receptacles, and even turn your AirConditioners to OFF, does it still kick the generator's breaker?
If it does, then the problem is definitely in your RV wiring. If not, one of your electrical appliances, or the Air Conditioners, is your problem.
And, if the problem happens when everything is OFF, you need to examine your wiring closely.
By kicking the generator's breaker, your RV must have one of your AC-voltage lines shorted to ground.
Here are a few things to check;
1- check your power cord from the generator to the RV for damage or bad connections.
2- check that your AC-Voltage breakers are operating and work properly.
3- check that where you rewired things there are no loose wires that might be shorted to other wires.
My GFC1 in the bathroom of my RV is always tripping. This is the second year camping and my RV didn't move for the last 2 years and today it's always tripping what can be the problem?
First of all, unplug anything in the "slave" GFCI receptacles. There is usually one in your Kitchen near the sink, one in each bathroom near the sink, and one outside.
They usually trip most often when there is a low current leak in one of your appliances in the GFCI receptacles.
My wife always kicks ours out when she uses her hair dryer.
If you unplug everything and it still "kicks" then you probably have a bad "Master"GFCI receptacle.
I have a 1999 Winnebago. I lost all power on the riders side, when plugged into outside power (50amp) but everything works with the generator. Could it be the outside power inverter?
First, check if these receptacles are on your GFCI circuit and if so, check if the GFCI Master receptacle needs to be reset.
Next, check your campsite power box on your campsite to see if one of the breakers in it has kicked.
If this is not the problem, you should then check the 50-AMP connector to your camper to make sure you have both sides of the 220VAC from the campsite power box. to your cable.
Someone bypassed something so we could have electric and light. We have to keep the battery charger on the outside battery to keep this running. There are two capacitor things in the bottom portion. One has the top blown off. Fuses and all on the right side are ok. Wires burned on the left side. My question, can I replace wires and capacitors or do I need to replace the whole fixture?
Your description of your symptoms are not clear!
So, you are using an external Charger to keep your trailer battery charged?
I don't know of any "Capacitor things" in your trailer, but if one is blown open and wires burned, these problems need to be addressed first.
Have an electrician replace the burned wires first of all, then get your trailer's Converter (Charger) checked for damage and make sure it charges your battery properly.
I have a 2006 Avenger, and the LED light strip under the awning started flashing and has trouble turning on when it rarely does turn on. Could it be a problem with the wiring or as simple as the led light strip?
We have a 2010 5th wheel camper. When we turn on the electric fireplace it’ll run for about 30 minutes then it makes the main breaker in the camper trip. Do you have an idea why?
I assume your 5th Wheeler has a 50-Amp service.
And, with every one of these fireplaces I have seen, or even know of, the electric fireplace is on its own breaker which c=should trip before your MAIN breaker.
So, if the fireplace has its own breaker and it didn't trip, then you are running near your overall power limit for your camper.
If this is the case, you need to turn OFF some of the other electrical devices and equipment you have running in your camper.
This should handle your problem for you.
I bought a new Atwood LP detector to replace one which was in an old truck camper. The old one seemed to work fine, but I had heard they should be replaced every seven years. The new one was installed just like the old Atwood. The new one works fine until I plug in the shore power and then no power. Unplug the shore power and again it works fine (green light). Does this new detector just need to be wired to the 12 volt DC with a 1 amp fuse and bypass the converter?
Just by plugging into Shore power should not deactivate one of these alarms.
I would suspect the output of your Converter. Considering your symptoms of the unit operating properly on the battery and not when plugged into Shore power, your Converter may be putting out the wrong voltage. Get out your manual on that new Converter and see what they say their 12-VDC level should be both with a load and with No Load.
Just in case your Converter is putting out a very low voltage because of the load from uncharged battery's let it run for an hour or so and see if the light comes ON.
I have a 2017 Rockwood 5th wheel we plugged it in to check for leaks and to get ready for camping this year. We disconnected the battery for the winter, reconnected and plugged it in, and we have no power lights on for a short time, but it's not working now. Should these things work if plugged into a power source?
The coach battery in your Fiver should be in good condition, and it should take a charge from your built-in converter.
One thing to check first is your CUT-OFF switch that is there to disconnect the internal 12-VDC equipment from the battery when the RV is put in storage.
If it is in the right position, then your converter should charge a good battery.
1- Check how old the battery is and is it too old to provide service anymore.
2- Check the battery's condition and if the battery has water in it.
3- Check if the battery is taking charge from the Converter.
FYI - If you use a multimeter to measure if your battery is charging check this; a battery that is being charged will read around 14,5-VDC, a fully charged battery will read around 13.5-VDC while an uncharged battery will read around 12.5-VDC.
why would my A/C and ceiling fans not turn on in my motorhome?
Your ceiling fans run on 12-VDC while your Air Conditioner runs on 220/110-VAC. Your Temperature control panel operates on 12-VDC so you could have a problem with your COACH battery being charged.
Check this first.
I can hear a buzzing noise coming from one of the circuit breakers, but everything is working. Should I be concerned?
You should check more closely and determine what might be making the sound you mention, because Circuit Breakers do not vibrate or make any noise of any kind, ever.
I have a 2004 Bounder RV. The air conditioners work, but you have to baby it to get them started. At times, even with the air conditioners off, there's a clicking sound coming from the controller. Not constantly, just now and then. What would cause this is the controller or thermostat bad?
Remember that your Temperature Control Panel operates on 12-VDC from your coach batteries.
So, make sure your coach batteries are in good condition, full of water and that they are fully charged.
Your Bounder has a built-in converter that keeps the batteries charged. However, when the batteries are not taking a charge then the Converter can power a few of your 12-VDC items, but it cannot carry the load of everything operating.
This is the most common cause of this kind of problem with the temperature controller.
Also, as your air conditioners age they tend to draw more current, both in the operating mode as well as when the compressor cycles. With a 50-Amp service to your RV, your service should be adequate for operating your Air units, unless you have enough other 120-VAC equipment running that could put you near an overload condition on your campsite service.
I've lost half of my AC power and all of my 12-volt power in my RV. The pedestal and trailer cord check good, as do the breakers. What gives?
Check the campsite pedestal and reset the breakers in the pedestal.
Once you do this, check if your air conditioner works. If it does then you have both sides of your 220-VAC into your camper. If your air doesn't work, then you may have one half of your 220VAC missing and you should get your campground to come and check that you have the proper power.
By the way, your 12-VDC comes from your coach battery, and it is kept charged by your 110-VAC to your converter.
Anyway, with only one half of your ac-voltage missing, I suspect your real cause is your campsite power at the campsite panel.
My coach is a 40 ft 2005 Monaco Camelot. I have an EMS Model 760 (00-00894-200). The display does not work sometimes. I have checked the voltage to the display board and it reads 12 volts. I have reset the EMS board at the breaker box. When I turn on the bedroom lights the display works and when I turn a couple of lights in the front room and kitchen the display works. I have also checked the EMS board J5 pins and everything looks good. Would I check for a short in the DC current?
OK, That EMS board is kind of old especially if it is original equipment. With your description of there being an intermittent operation, I would first look for loose or oxidized wires at the connections.
Also, always make sure your coach batteries are good and fully charged, as well as that they have water in them. Remember, your 12-VDC at the batteries should be around 14-5 VDC when they are charging, and around 13.5 VDC when they are fully charged, IF they are only at 12.0 to 12.5 VDC then many of your interior circuit boards will not work properly.
As a side note, you might consider using an external Surge Protector of you can't get your built-in to work properly.
I just installed new LED lights in my Coleman/Fleetwood Westlake pop-up camper. The previous owner said the lights didn’t work and that they replaced the bulbs. The bulbs became extremely hot, melting the cover plate and blowing the bulb. I then installed new LED light fixtures, but after two minutes, one side on each fixture smoked the LED. What in the world is going on?
From what you describe, I assume that your pop-up was connected to the towing vehicle and thus was using the auto's voltage to the lights.
If the previous owners selected the right replacement lamps, they should have been safe and should have operated properly on the auto's 12-VDC. I suspect that the previous owner used the wrong lamp.
If the LED assembly and lights are a standard design, then they should never have been in danger of burning out.
This leads me to suspect the pop-up wiring. First of all, pop-ups are notorious for having poor ground connections, so make sure the light fixtures are well grounded, and that there is no corrosion on the ground connections or loose wires. LED lamps are designed to operate on 12-VDC and can work properly up to maybe 14-VDC, but above that their protective circuitry can burn out.
I would also check the DC voltage without having campsite power plugged up.
I do know of one RVer who contacted the LED lamp manufacturer, and they apologized because they had sent them an LED that wasn't designed for the variations in voltage you experience in an RV.
If the lamps are the proper ones they should never burn out, which would indicate a high voltage.
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