Troubleshooting and Repairing RV Electrical Problems for the Beginner

Updated on January 24, 2019
Don Bobbitt profile image

Don is a retired engineer and long-time motorhome owner who enjoys helping readers deal with the increasingly complex technology of RVs.

A typical pair of coach batteries that you might find on an RV, and their connections. Two 6-volt DC batteries, connected in series, provide the 12-volt power that powers many lights and controls.
A typical pair of coach batteries that you might find on an RV, and their connections. Two 6-volt DC batteries, connected in series, provide the 12-volt power that powers many lights and controls. | Source

Electrical Problems in RVs: For the Novice

Electrical problems in an RV or camper are very common, and often RV owners don’t know where to start when they deal with them.

This article provides some basic information for the RV owner to help diagnose and repair electrical problems efficiently and safely. I'd like you to:

  • Understand your RV electrical system in general.
  • Learn how to do some very basic troubleshooting on your RV.

First: Know the Difference Between a Major and a Minor Electrical Problem

If you own or rent an RV, you will want to know enough to at least make a walk-around inspection before you go on the road, especially of the electrical system. Even a novice can learn how to inspect for problems, and determine if the problem is major or minor.

A major problem, for example, may be present when a refrigerator stops working, and you wonder if you should look into the wiring and propane-management circuitry on the back of the fridge or not. For the electrical novice, the answer is no; stay away from such repairs yourself. They are too dangerous, especially when they involve AC power or propane. You should always contact a qualified service tech for resolving such problems.

But a minor problem, one you could address on your own, could be something as simple as re-setting a breaker or GFI that has "kicked out," replacing a blown fuse that is easily accessible, taking an educated guess as to what caused the breaker or fuse to shut off, or checking the water in your battery.

So how do you tell? Before you start with any hands-on troubleshooting, keep in mind that safety comes first.

Electricity Can Kill!

Please remember this when using the information below!

Before you start opening panels and messing around with electrical systems, in an RV or camper or at home, observe these warnings.

WARNING 1: If you do not know what you are doing, do not touch anything, and call your RV manufacturer, or RV Roadside Assistance company, or if at home, your local certified electrician. Remember, again, ELECTRICITY CAN KILL!

WARNING 2: If replacing a blown fuse or resetting a kicked breaker doesn’t fix the problem, you should seriously consider backing off and calling your RV manufacturer's Service Center for advice before doing anything else.

Now—with these warnings in mind—here are some minor problems that you may be able to fix, and some diagnostics that you can run yourself.

Troubleshooting Your RV's Electrical Problems

Every problem is different, but before or after you read the discussion just below of the basics of your system, check the four sections further below on troubleshooting common problems:

  1. Fuses and breakers
  2. The 12-volt system
  3. The power source
  4. Appliance current draws

Plus I include a section on terms and abbreviations that you may run across while doing your electrical investigation.

Some Basic Electrical Information for the RV Owner

A modern RV contains a lot of built-in electrical devices. And along with these devices comes complicated electrical control and protection circuitry designed to protect the RV and its occupants.

Starting with the absolute basics, your RV's appliances can be powered in three different ways. Appliances may use any of these three power sources, individually or in combination.

  • The AC (alternating current) electrical system (generally 115 volts), which runs the air conditioner and some other devices.
  • The DC (direct current) system (12 volts), which runs the lights, switches, slides, and thermostats.
  • In addition, refrigerators and some appliances run on propane fuel.

AC power comes into the RV from your generator, or from the campground or other outlet you plug it into: a 20-amp, 30-amp, or 50-amp supply. The AC power control panel distributes this power to the appliances and outlets that use AC power, for example the air conditioner. The campground supplies AC power on two different wires: a 240-volt supply is split into two "legs" of 115 volts or so.

Your DC power comes from a battery or batteries (like in the picture above). Whenever the power stored in the batteries gets low, the converter charges it up. The converter uses the higher-voltage AC power that comes in from the campground or generator through the 115-volt AC breaker panel and converts it to 12-volt DC.

The converter that charges your 12-volt batteries is often called an "inverter." "Inverter" is actually the name for another device most RVs have that changes 12-volt DC power to 115-volt AC for use in televisions and such.

The 12-volt output of your converter likely goes through two 30-amp fuses that feed your 12-volt fuse panel. The 12-volt DC power goes to the lights, switches, and slides, and to the controls of many appliances including the heater/air conditioner and refrigerator.

Both electrical systems can develop weakness in many places, especially when being hauled around on trips. Any RV or towed vehicle vibrates in transit. And these vibrations will, at times, shake electrical connections loose, in addition to the wear and tear that wires and appliances go through in normal use. If a wire has its insulation rubbed off, or something inside an appliance shakes loose or burns out, then current can stop flowing in your 12-volt or 115-volt system. Or it can flow into a place where it is not supposed to flow, causing a “short,” and this excessive flow of current can burn out wires and appliances, or in the worst case cause a fire or injury.

Because of these risks, the RV will have breakers or fuses to shut off power if anything goes wrong:

  • a set of AC fuses or breakers to interrupt the 115-volt AC power coming from outside the RV if anything goes wrong in the 115-volt system.
  • a set of DC fuses or breakers to interrupt the DC power if anything goes wrong in the 12-volt system,
  • and also, in many 110-volt receptacles, mini-breakers called GFIs or GFCBs (Ground Fault Indicators or Ground Fault Circuit Breakers), which shut off power to appliances if a wire or circuit is creating a short.

1. Troubleshooting Fuses and Breakers

Troubleshooting often begins, and may well end, with resetting a breaker, replacing a fuse, or resetting a Ground Fault Indicator, and then seeing what happens. Older RVs tend to have fuses; newer ones, breakers.

The fuses and breakers were placed in the system for two major reasons:

  1. To protect the RV and you the owner from harm if an appliance or other electrical device or an electrical line fails and draws too much current.
  2. To protect your RV and its electrical appliances and other devices if you plug your RV into an electrical service that is not regulated properly and you get electrical voltages that are too low or too high for your RV and its equipment.

So a breaker or fuse going off is often a sign that something else is wrong: a symptom, not a cause of your problem. The problem may be easy to fix or it may not be. Many appliances have sensors on their mechanical parts that will kick a breaker or blow a fuse rather than allow the appliance to continue running in an unsafe mode.

Note that breakers can go bad themselves; if they trip too many times, they can suffer mechanical stress and lose their ability to stay closed at the current they were designed for.

Ground Fault Indicators

A GFI or Ground Fault Indicator (also called GFCB) is a receptacle with a RESET button on it. It is designed, like a regular circuit breaker, to "throw" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit. Additionally, a GFI will throw itself if even a small amount of current is detected between the "hot" lead and the ground lead of the circuit breaker. These specialty circuit breakers are required in areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and garages, places where the user of an appliance could possibly be physically touching ground through plumbing, metal, or flooring and using an appliance that is not insulated properly. They are life-savers.

If you find that several AC appliances at once stop working, or if AC appliances quit working but the air conditioner keeps going, suspect a Ground Fault Indicator. If the GFI detects a problem, the GFI-equipped receptacle will shut itself off, often along with several other "slave" receptacles. Push the RESET button and see if that fixes the problem; if not, disconnect all appliances and plug them back in one by one. The problem may be a single faulty appliance or something else entirely. It's possible (though not the most likely thing) that the GFI receptacle itself is bad and needs replacing.

Don't Upgrade Your Fuses

Don’t try to fix your problems by replacing your fuse or breaker with a higher-rated one. Your camper or RV was designed by professionals with your safety in mind, as well as your convenience. Each electrical device was installed on an electrical line that could safely handle the load.

Putting in a higher-rated fuse or breaker does not fix any problems. If you have a blown fuse, replace it with a fuse of the same rating, NEVER a higher-rated fuse. Because:

  1. You could cause an electrical fire and destroy your RV.
  2. You could permanently damage the equipment that is supplied by that fuse.

Always remember, the fuse was designed for a normal operational load. And if it blew, something has changed.

With these warnings in mind, below is a table of fuse colors and what ratings they indicate, in case you go shopping for replacement fuses.

Standard automotive fuses are color-coded according to their current rating; below is a short list for your reference.

Color
Amperage rating (amps)
black
1
gray
2
violet
3
pink
4
gold
5
brown
7.5
red
10
blue
15
yellow
20
clear
25
green
30
The color of a DC fuse shows its amp rating.

2. Troubleshooting 12-Volt System Problems

A bad connection in the 12-volt system can cause failures of various appliances, including slides and lights which run on 12-volt power. A 12-volt problem can cause failure of other appliances and systems if they have 12-volt power to their controls. The refrigerator and air conditioner, even running in propane-fueled mode or on AC power, require DC voltage for their logic circuits, and so may fail to operate when there is a DC system problem. Problems in the DC system can also cause lights or appliances to go on and off.

You can so some simple investigation of the 12-volt system yourself, for example:

  • Check whether the fuse or breaker is tripped or not.
  • Check whether the fuse is loose.
  • Check whether the connections to the fuse or breaker box are loose.
  • Check whether the connections to the DC batteries are loose (see initial photo).
  • Check whether the batteries have enough water. This is the most common easy-to-fix problem. When your battery is overworked or overheated the water tends to evaporate. Add distilled water only.
  • Check whether the batteries are charged enough. A multimeter (see below) should show the voltage between the battery terminals between 13.4 and 14.5 volts DC; if not, the battery may be worn out and need replacement, or it may be low on water, or the converter may not be giving it any power.
  • Check whether the connections to the converter are loose.
  • Check the fuse on the converter. The converter itself has a fuse or two, often on the front.

If you can find nothing wrong here, you may have a bad converter that needs to be replaced; this is a job for the service center, though the adventurous can read a little more in this other article about troubleshooting converters.

Another article of mine has more information about troubleshooting and maintaining your RV's batteries.

Using a Multimeter

A multimeter can measure potential (DC volts, AC volts), electric current (amps), and resistance (ohms).

This device is very useful in the hands of a trained individual, but the novice should not attempt to use all of its functions until they understand what they are trying to measure as well as any dangers involved in making the measurements.

Klein Tools MM200 Auto Ranging Multimeter
Klein Tools MM200 Auto Ranging Multimeter

When my old multimeter died, I selected this one for its functions, ruggedness and ease of use.

 

3. Troubleshooting Problems Coming From the Outside Power Supply

The power supply that your parked RV is plugged into can cause problems if it is supplying too much or too little power, fluctuates, is not grounded correctly, or its connector is corroded. Too much current can cause appliances or lights to fail or blow out, and even melt wires or plugs; too little (in an overpopulated campground with an overloaded supply, for example) can cause lamps to dim. Your campground management should be providing safe power at the level they advertise, whether 30 amps or 50 amps; that is their responsibility. You may ask management to investigate, or check with your campground neighbors to see what they are experiencing.

If half your appliances along with your air conditioner are out, one possibility is that half the AC supply from the campground is missing (another possibility is a GFI going off; see part 1 above).

Your on-board or portable generator can also be the cause of problems; it may stop running if your vehicle's gas tank is less than 1/4 full.

Most RVs have a master switch for disconnecting your RV's power during storage. It is a small switch, often near the door on the inside. It will need to be on for you to get power.

Surge Protector, Yes or No?

Everyone in campgrounds seems to be purchasing surge protectors these days. I don't have one. If you buy one, make sure you are purchasing a GOOD one.

Your RV already has surge protection devices: your main AC breaker plus the individual appliance and equipment breakers in your main breaker panel. Like surge protectors, they kick out if the input voltage goes too high.

The only real difference between breakers and a commercial "surge protection" device is that standard breakers are slow to react to voltage changes. A good surge protector should react faster than a breaker to voltage increases and kick out if the voltage exceeds the safe limit of your electrical equipment. Because low input voltages can also harm electrical devices or make them run erratically, most surge protectors will also turn the power off when the voltage is too low.

Now the problem with surge protection devices is that there are no real requirements or specifications for their design. You could purchase one that does not react fast enough to protect your RV equipment. Many of my fellow campers who had surge protectors experienced damage that "fried" their breakers without the surge protector helping at all.

Anyone who buys one of these devices should make sure they get one that has a relatively fast response time, though it's difficult for a camper to tell how fast one surge protector is relative to others.

4. Troubleshooting AC Current Draws

Once again, I recommend that you NOT mess with your RV's 115-volt power system unless you really know what you are doing.

But if your AC breakers or fuses are going off, you can certainly investigate whether your appliances, singly or in combination, are drawing more AC power than you want them to.

Remember that problems with your AC appliances may not come from your 115-volt system at all but from your 12-volt system, because the controls for your fridge and your air conditioner and heater—and other switches here and there—are likely 12-volt.

How Much Current Do Your Appliances Draw?

It's good to know which of your appliances use a lot of current, even when they are working properly. That way you can decide when and where to use your appliances so that the flow of electricity stays within the bounds your system can handle.

The table below lists the approximate MAXIMUM current drawn by common appliances in your RV. Most appliances draw a lot of current during a short period of intense use and less current at other times. These current figures are not exact and vary by manufacturer and model.

Appliance
Current
Notes
Air conditioner (rated 13,500 to 15,000 Btu)
12-14 amps
Peak use when starting up
Air conditioner
5-8 amps
Normal rate after it gets going
Coffee pot (maximum use, while perking coffee)
8-10 amps
Once the coffee is brewed, the hot plate under the pot uses much less power, especially if you turn its temperature down.
Hair dryer
8-15 amps
Less powerful hair dryers might be better for RV use.
Crock pot
1-2 amps
Crock pots are useful for cooking in RVs.
Food processor
3-5 amps
 
Electric frying pan
7-11 amps
 
Hand vacuum (small)
2 amps
 
Iron
8-10 amps
 
Microwave oven
8-13 amps
 
TV (digital)
1.5 to 5
Depending on the size, the manufacturer, and the technology.
Water heater (in 120-volt AC mode)
11-13 amps
 

Estimating Maximum Current

If you are unsure what current an appliance draws, use this simple method to calculate the maximum current it will draw when working.

  1. Look for the appliance's power rating in watts. You may find it on a label on the appliance, or in the owner's manual, or you can contact the manufacturer or look online.
  2. Divide the number of watts by 120 (the AC voltage), and the result, in amps, is the maximum rating of the appliance for current.

Or you can measure the current an appliance uses with the simple tool below.

P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor
P3 P4400 Kill A Watt Electricity Usage Monitor

If you suspect an appliance of drawing too much current, use this handy meter and monitor what it actually uses. This is a valuable tool for your toolbox.

 

Useful Electrical Terms, Abbreviations, and Data

Here is a list of electrical terms and abbreviations, along with a list of color codes for resistors. This information should help the novice be more comfortable with what they are doing when an electrical problem does occur.

Term
Abbreviation
Meaning
Tips
Alternating current
AC
Alternating current reverses polarity and flows alternately in both directions in a circuit.
The voltage in your home is AC voltage, in the US typically 115V AC.
Ampere
Amp
The measure of electrical current
 
Capacitor
 
An electrical component that stores electrical energy, with a specific storage capacity
A capacitor often has a polarity and must be installed properly. The polarity is generally indicated by a stripe at one end of the part.
Circuit breaker
 
A device that opens up or "throws" itself to break a circuit when the current through it exceeds its designed limit. Unlike a fuse, a circuit breaker can be reset when it throws.
 
Direct current
DC
Direct current flows constantly in one direction, commonly from a positive lead to a negative lead.
 
Diode
 
An electrical component that allows current flow in one direction and impedes current flow in the opposite direction.
Current flows from the cathode to the anode. The cathode end is usually marked by a stripe.
Fuse
 
A device that is designed to destroy itself or "blow" when the current that passes through it exceeds its designed current limit.
A safety device used to protect electrical devices under adverse conditions. When replacing a fuse, always use one with the same current and voltage rating.
Ground Fault Circuit Breaker
GFCB
Like a regular circuit breaker, the GFCB "throws" itself off when the current through it exceeds its designed current limit.
 
Ground Fault Indicator
GFI
Same as above
 
Ohm
 
The measure of resistance to current flow.
The resistance can be calculated using the formula: R=V/I, or resistance equals voltage divided by current.
Watt
W
The measure of electrical power.
DC power can be calculated using the formula: W=V x I.
Wire gauge
 
The size of a wire chosen in designing electrical circuits, which determines the current it can handle with minimal resistance.
Standard wire sizes or gauges go from 0 to larger numbers. The larger the gauge number, the smaller the wire size.

One-Letter Electrical Abbreviations

Letter
Meaning
F (upper case)
Farad, the measure of the value of a capacitor. For example, 1 uF means 1 micro-farad.
l (upper case)
Electrical current, measured in amperes. Current can be calculated using the formula I = V/R, that is, current equals voltage divided by resistance.
K (upper case)
One thousand. Example: 1 KW means one kilowatt, one thousand watts.
m (lower case)
One one-thousandth, 0.001. Example: 1 mW means one milliwatt, a thousandth of a watt.
M (upper case)
One million. Example: 1 MW means one megawatt, a million watts.
n (lower case)
One billionth, 0.000000001. Example: 1 nF means one nanofarad, a billionth of a farad.
p (lower case)
One trillionth, 0.000000000001. Example: 1 pF means one picofarad, a trillionth of a farad.
u (lower case)
One millionth, 0.000001. For example: 1 uF means one micro-farad, a millionth of a farad.
V (upper case)
Volt, the measure of electrical potential. Voltage can be calculated using the formula: V = I x R.
W (upper case)
Watt, the measure of electrical power.

Resistor Values and Colors

Color
Value
Black
1
Brown
2
Red
3
Orange
4
Yellow
5
Green
6
Blue
7
Violet
8
Gray
9
White
0
Gold (as the fourth band)
1% tolerance on the value
Silver (as the fourth band)
5% tolerance on the value
No color (as the fourth band)
10% tolerance on the value
In a resistor with four bands, the first three colored bands "spell out" a three-digit value for resistance in ohms, and the fourth band (if any) indicates the tolerance.

Good Luck Now

The hundreds of comments below have explored just about everything that can go wrong with an RV's electrical system. Add your own questions and comments. But please, again, do not mess with any wiring unless you are sure of what you are doing. Electricity can kill.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Questions & Answers

  • I have a 2014 jay I Greyhawk. Can you give me any advice on how to fix the running lights and the backup lights?

    First of all, your Jayco running lights and backup lights operate on your engine battery.

    As with regular automobiles, your running lights are controlled (ON/OFF) by your dash light switch, and your backup lights are controlled by a switch on your shift lever.

    BUT, I would suspect you have a couple of blown fuses.

    Somewhere, under your hood or possibly under your dash there is a fuse panel that has fuses for both of these functions, so find that fuse panel and check that all of the fuses are good.

    If you do have blown fuses, replace them; but your concern should then be what caused them to blow? You should check the voltage on the CHASSIS (engine) battery to make sure your alternator is working properly.

  • What is the problem if I have no power to my 110-VAC outlets?

    Some of your 110-VAC outlets are on your GFCI circuit, and you should check your Master GFCI for a RESET switch.

    This is one of the more common causes of this problem.

  • I’m having trouble with my 2008 Jayco Flight 20 footers AC. The thermostat doesnt get power(or at least barley measurable) but I have power to the control box from the 110v. I’ve tried disconnecting power and run off battery and the lights work but fridge switched to gas and outlets don’t work. Maybe the converter is going or is bad?

    There are several things you need to understand about your trailer's power systems.

    1- Your camper's lights, alarms, temperature control panel, and other accessories run on your 12-VDC from your camper battery which is kept charged by your external campsite 110-VAC power to your Converter.

    2- Your fridge relies on gas or 12-VDC to operate but the icemaker runs on 110VAC.

    3- Your 110-VAC outlets operate on your external campsite power. And you have several receptacles that are on a GFCI circuit that can kick out at times.

    SO, If you want everything to work you need to have that 110-VAC campsite power hooked up.

    And, you need to check your camper's battery; 1- does it have water in it, and 2- is it charged up?

    Your Air Conditioner does run on 110-VAC, but if the temperature control panel doesn't have adequate 12-VDC to it, it will not allow the AIR to run.

    Start with understanding these things, and you can get your camper accessories operating properly.

  • I have a 2017 Jayco pull-behind, and we had to have the water heater replaced a year ago. It is now throwing the 2-Amp fuse. Do we need to return to mfg?

    I'm surprised that a water heater has a fuse value of only 2-Amp. I think that is wrong and you should check your JAYCO customer service and see what the actual value should be.An RV water heater is a "fast heating" appliance and i think the fuse should be significantly higher than just 2-Amps.

  • There is no power to the thermostat. The remote wire from the power source, 12V, is there. What is the root of the power wire? Does it go straight from the 12V to the thermostat or does it go to the AC first?

    First make sure that when you measure the 12-VDC, you also have the other lead on a good solid ground, preferably the metal chassis.

    If there is still NO VOLTAGE on the 12-VDC wire, then go to your 12-VDC Fuse panel for the RV internal systems and make sure you do not have a blown fuse. If there is NO 12-VDC into the Fuse panel then check your COACH battery and check for 12-VDC across the terminals of the battery.

    Remember that the 12-VDC from those batteries power your temperature control panel, your Fridge control panel, your gas alarms, and your interior lights.

Comments

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    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      25 hours ago from Ruskin Florida

      From your symptoms; that your 2-way Fridge did work on Propane but quit and it did not work on 110-VAC, I would suspect that your COACH battery is not fully charged.

      Check the battery for water level and that the voltage across the terminals is around 13.5-VDC or higher to make sure it is OK.

      I'm not sure about your "one receptacle" that does not work unless it is on your GFCI, but you aid you reset it?

      Anyway, check that battery because it powers your 2-Way Fridge's control circuit board.

      Good luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Sheri Bishop 

      36 hours ago

      We have a Coachman Catalina travel trailer. This weekend our refrigerator and 1 outlet by the fridge quit working. The refrigerator did work on gas but could not get it to work on electric. Everything else worked in the camper. We reset the GFCI receptacle in the bathroom and it did not fix the problem. We did not find any other GFCI receptacles in the camper. We then check the fuses and they were good. We flipped all the breakers and not luck.

      Do you have any ideas we need to check next?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      12 days ago from Ruskin Florida

      Dennis - From what little you have told me, I would find the 12-VDC Fuse panel in your Class-C motorhome and check for a blown fuse. Generally the interior 12-VDC fuse panel would be under the dash; but often it cn be found near the RV's power panel.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Dennis Brown 

      12 days ago

      2005 dutchman express out side running lights will notl light up

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      12 days ago from Ruskin Florida

      If Your engine starts and runs only when you hold the AUX switch then your Engine battery is not charged. Use a multimeter and measure directly across the COACH battery terminals and you should read 13.5-VDC if it is charged, If you measure around 12.5-VDC or lower then the battery is bad or not charged; or your alternator is bad and is not charging the battery.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Gordon Hilton 

      12 days ago

      I have a 2000 Holiday rambler with the Ford v 10 engine and the battery is fully charged along with my house battery the only way that i can get it to start is i have to hook up my booster cables and turn on my axillary power and then when it starts i have to hold my axillary power button down the minute that i let go it shuts down.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Julie - Without any other information about your RV itself or your symptom, I can only assume that the manufacturer has the wiring for the two appliances tied together somewhere.

      Considering the RV is new, you should take it back to the dealer for repair immediately.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Julie 

      2 weeks ago

      My brand new rv seems to have an electrical issue, when we put the furnace on, the outside radio turn on by itself :/

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      You have not described your problem very well because you left out the RV type among other details.

      There are no other ceiling alarms in the typical RV ceiling. And the only thing that may be making a similar sound could be the fan in your ceiling AC dragging on its shroud.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Pat 

      2 weeks ago

      Have a chirping sound from the ceiling. It's not the radio and the smoke detector is ok.is there a battery I should check?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      First of all, I am assuming that you had to replace your exterior 50-Amp connector on your camper. Considering this fact, make sure that your new connector was wired properly inside your camper and the wires were not damaged inside the camper to your breaker box.

      Second, make sure your external power cable was rewired properly and that is was not damaged internally considering the fact that you had melted wires at both the campsite power box, and at your camper.

      And understand that any current leakage between the Common and Ground wires will kick out your GFCI circuit, so check that the GFCI has been reset.

      BTW - Roof AC units and Clothes Dryers run on 220-VAC as supplied by your external campsite power box.

      If your landlord is providing some type of 50-Amp power connection that is not what is standard for Campers then you may need to get an electrician look at how it is not wired versus what is standard.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Livinthedream2gether 

      2 weeks ago

      Hello, I read through all of the posts before I decided to ask, hoping I would find the answer and not bother you with a question that you have already had.

      My family and I (5of us) live in a bunk house, bumper pull mobile home. Has 4 bedrooms, with bunk beds in each room, 2 ac units on top, 3 window units, washer dryer, (110) and fridge, microwave... most common household furnishings. It’s a 2000 airevaction but I have never found that company. Has a 50 amp plug, a breaker box with 8 breakers, and the converter/battery charger. Recently we have blown the pole breaker outside, the one the landlord owns. We have alternated using various electriconics to prevent any blown breakers, overloads and that sort. After fixing the breaker outside, the receptical and plug (because they both melted).... we aren’t able to get all of our circuits back on the breaker box. Only the red hot wire will provide power, the black wire shows 2volts as does the common. The ground shows zero. Not sure where to look? Or what to troubleshoot since I don’t have any specs on this mobile home and can’t find any on the web. Any advice would be very appreciated. Hope you have a blessed day.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      2 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Jeff - The standard 2-way Fridge will alarm when the door is left partially open, but that is the only Fridge alarm I am aware of.

      So check that there is nothing on your shelf that keeps the door from closing all of the way, and check the little button on the frame that is a switch for detecting an open door.

      Have a Nice Day,

      DON

    • profile image

      Jeff 

      2 weeks ago

      What would cause the LP to alarm in the rev if the gas tank is off

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Launa - First of all check that your 30-Amp 220-VAC receptacle on your house is wired properly, and that it is designed to mate to your standard RV cable.

      I am assuming that you are saying that the breaker inside your house is what was thrown, which would indicate it was not wired properly at the connector.

      And, your AC is powered via your AC-Voltage breakers, not fuses.

      And, as always, you should always make sure your CAOCH battery(s) is in good condition and has water.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Launa 

      3 weeks ago

      Hi our 2013 Winnebago sun star is hooked up to our house 30 amp . When I went to turn it on it shut off right away . Can’t find any brakes thrown , and everything works in the rv ? Does the air condition have a fuse ? Would it be in the fuse box under the dash . Thanks in advance

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Daren - If your Awning Light system was factory wired, the switch should have handled the power problem.

      If it was installed by an individual, it should have operated properly considering your Rig is a 2016.

      Considering that you just started having this problem after a couple of years of operating properly then I would look for a pinched wire probably somewhere along the wiring run along the awning and into your RV??

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Daren Harrington 

      3 weeks ago

      I have a 2016 Jayco Pinnacle fifth wheel and I cannot get the awning lights to turn off I pulled the switch and the lights stayed on any ideas?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      devaughn - Normally a single roof AC unit will draw around 6-8 Amps while running, but it can pull an additional 4-6 amps when it starts up.

      This temporarily high 12-Amps surge or so is still not enough alone to kick your outside 30-Amp Main breaker.

      Your microwave, if it is not operating in the Convection mode, does not draw enough current to add to the AC unit and throw your breaker.

      And, I am assuming that your interior breaker box did not have any kicked breakers, either the 20-Amp AC breaker or the main breaker.

      Af all of this is true, then I suspect that your eterior breaker is bad, or your cable from your RV to your exterior breaker has a problem, either bad connections or damaged wires inside it.

      One thing you can check, is to feel the cable while things are running and check if it is HOT. It should not be hot.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      devaughn.thompson@cpsagu.com 

      3 weeks ago

      during this unusual hot weather we are having in south ga I have a outback rv and I can't run the ac and the microwave at the same time what could be causing this it keeps tripping the 30 amp breaker on my service pole

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      MichaelM - The first thing to do is make sure the battery on the camper is still good, or even better, replace it with a new one you can rely on. This battery powers a number of things in your camper including the interior lights.

      Then, make sure the cable you are using to connect your generator to your campers exterior power receptacle is the properly wired one.

      Your camper has a 30-Amp interior power system with a standard RV 30-AMp Service input.

      This means there should be two 110-VAC sources which your AC unit will use for its 220VAC. I don't know how your generator output is wired???

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Tracy - The first thing you should do is remove the lens cover, clean out any debris and then and check the electrical connections to the bulb holder and make sure; 1- the bulb connector is not corroded, and 2- the wires are not broken, and 3-the ground wire is tightly connected to the chassis.

      Bad ground connections is the major cause of such exterior running light problems with campers once they age a few years.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      MichaelM 

      3 weeks ago

      I inherited a 2010 KZ Sportmen Classic 14FKTH in a recent land purchase. I have no history on the trailer. I hooked it up to a generator, but nothing worked. Where should I start to troubleshoot?

    • profile image

      Tracy 

      3 weeks ago

      I have a 2008 T@B trailer. the passenger side tail light does not work. The blinker and break lights. They worked one trip and the next not. The only thing that happened is I had wasps in there and I sprayed them.

    • profile image

      Tony 

      4 weeks ago

      My air stopped working my outlets dont work i changedtbe breaker and still no luck help its hot in texas

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      As you know your Converter is connected to your COACH battery and it keeps the battery charged.

      Your Trailer's Radio, Awning and Awning Lights are also powered by the same battery so you should see each of their Hot wires on the POSITIVE terminal of the battery, or if you have a 12-VDC Fuse panel, they should be connected to individual fuses on it.

      Check that each of these accessories has a wire firmly connected to ground or you could get some strange things happen with the accessories when one is turned ON and draws the 12-VDC down.

      Of course, before anything make sure your trailer battery is good, has water, and is taking a charge.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Jaclyn Boren 

      5 weeks ago

      We have a 2018 Coleman trailer and our converter blew so we took it in (under warranty still), got it back but now the radio turns on with the awning light remote. The radio remote doesn’t do anything and the lights won’t turn on, on the awning. I’m guessing two wires got switched but I don’t know how to fix it back. I’d rather not take it back in since Camping World has about a 3 week turn around time. Any advice is helpful!

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Motorhomes , and almost all campers have a GFCI circuit. The "Master" GFCI receptacle will have a "test" and "reset" button it. There will be several other "Slave" GFCI receptacles and all are generally in the Kitchen and Bathroom areas due to the possibility of using appliances near metal and sustaining a shock.

      Your most likely problem is the :Master" GFCI and you should reset it and things should be OK.

      Have a Nice DAy.

      DON

    • profile image

      Bernie 

      5 weeks ago

      We have a 20170 Minnie Winnie our outlets in the kitchen side of the coach are nice working. TV in the bedroom works, microwave works. Checked breakers they look fine... any ideas?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      7 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Al - The most common cause of this kind of problem is your ENGINE battery.

      All of the items you mention in your symptoms operate on your engine battery, and it could be one of three things; 1- it is low on water, 2- it is not taking a charge, or 3- your alternator is not operating properly.

      I would guess the battery first, especially if it is old.

      Have a nice day,

      DON

    • profile image

      Al Tornquist 

      7 weeks ago

      I have a 2012 American Coach Revolution class a 42” diesel pusher with a 450 hp Cummins engine that when I started it the air horn would not shut off. I finally unplugged it as i could find no shut off switch on the air horn Next the computer would not come on and finally it would not go into drive. It will run but that’s all. Where should I start

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      7 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Tom Burkett - Your Southwind utilizes the two switches to turn OFF connections to the two batteries, so that they will NOT be drawn down. The switch itself operates a high current solenoid that you should hear with a "clunking sound" when you operate it.

      By the way, your MAIN or Truck battery also powers your power step, your outside door light and your awning light (if you have one), so if they are still operating then your Cut-Off switch is not OFF.

      If everything is operating OK but will not turn OFF then your solenoid could be bad.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      TomBurkett 

      7 weeks ago

      My 1993 Southwind truck battery was dead recently after about a month of storage. I installed a new battery and it started fine and seemed to be charging normally. I checked many of the usual suspects to make sure that there was none left on which would cause the old battery to die.

      The main switches (Aux and Truck) were off. No dash board light or radio left on. Long story short the new battery was dead about a week later. I haven't had any problems with the electrical before and need some help. Note that there are 3 wires attached to the truck positive post. Should I take one wire off and recharge the battery and see if the removed wire system is at fault?

      This will take several weeks and may tell me more. Do you have any better ideas? Thank you. Tom Burkett

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      8 weeks ago from Ruskin Florida

      Donica - On many of these electric fireplaces, the fan only operates when the temperature inside the fireplace reaches a certain temperature.

      Check if your fireplace owners manual says this is the case.

      And of course, you need to make sure your COACH battery is fully charged because some electrical equipment will not run if the voltage drops below a certain level.

      So, if the fuse for the fireplace is OK, then your symptoms would indicate an internal wiring problem in the fireplace itself.

      I would bet on the voltage being low?

      Have a Nice day,

      DON

    • profile image

      Donica Skellett 

      8 weeks ago

      Turned on our fire place and it worked mt husband turned on the blower and it went off ! Checked fuses all looks good . Any comments on what could be wrong? Big Country 2008 fifth wheel Hearland

    • profile image

      Margaret 

      2 months ago

      My husband installed new house batteries. After that we lost our informatio center. Not sure if it was related or coincidental. Any ideas?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      2 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      for long period of time you should do the following;

      1- Make sure your batteries have water in them.

      2- Plug your Rv into an external power source.

      3- Check that your Converter is charging your AUX (Coach) batteries.

      4- Make sure you have your AUX Cut-Off switch in the appropriate position so that your 12-VDC system is turned ON.

      5- One your batteries have fully charged, you should have everything operating properly.

      Have a Nice Day!

      DON

    • profile image

      Rob 

      2 months ago

      I have a 1999 Winnebago Itasca was in the storage when I took it out the 12 volt system won't work now replace both axillary batteries still nothing the switch don't even click little run off the shore power

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Tara - Your RV has a GFCI system which consists of a Master and several Slave receptacles.

      The Master GFCI has a Reset button.

      Find this receptacle and once you reset it, all of the Slave units will operate.

      You should never plug a typical heater unit into a GFCI receptacle because they are not always wired as safely as possible and they draw a lot of current.

      Try this and your problems should go away.

      DON

    • profile image

      Tara Gragg 

      3 months ago

      I have a 2003 coachman model c liberty edition yesterday i used a heater which trip all my outlet i went to outlet in bathroom but it was dead too no reset so i went and got a new set and installed it but all out let is still dead don't know what to microwave and fridge working fine.is there any other outlet please help me

    • profile image

      Irma 

      3 months ago

      Just checked fuses no current to them

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Donald - Your slide operates on the same COACH battery as your other 12-VDC interior equipment.

      So, if your interior lights, CO and other alarms operate properly, and your fuse panel has no bad fuses then check the slide control module.

      Sad to say, these control modules are often "well hidden'.

      But, if you can find yours you can use a multimeter to check the voltage on its terminals to see if the unit has power and if it is functioning.

      One tip for you though, make sure you have your Power Cut-Off switch is not ON.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Josh - Your USB port in a Fiver would be powered by your 12-VDC COACH battery just like your interior lights would.

      Your Stereo would typically also be powered by either your 12-VDC, or with some campers by an INVERTER which generates 110-VAC from your campers battery.

      Inverters are notoriously noisy of they do not get enough 12-VDC power.

      Considering your symptoms, the first thing I would do is make sure my COACH battery is a good one and has water in it.

      Then I would check that my CONVERTER is keeping the battery fully charged.

      If these things are OK then I would take my NEW RV back to the dealer and have them fix the problem, which I would suspect to be the CONVERTER.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Donald Underwood 

      3 months ago

      We have a 2008 Cedar Creek Daydreamer 5th Wheel. We recently tried to move a slide and the switch did not seem to have power. It didn't even try to move....just silence. We checked breaker box and fuses inside trailer and nothing was burned out or tripped. Wonder if there's another fuse or breaker we need to check, like something inside a bin. Or any other ideas on the problem?

    • profile image

      Josh 

      3 months ago

      Newbie question.. I have a 2019 Sabre 36bhq that I just picked up last week. Two things are now acting strange.. first the stereo emits this horrid sound through the speakers like a bad ground sound, and whenever you plug in a device to the USB port, the light in the same room flickers.. Any ideas? Thank you

      Josh

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Melika - As I mentioned, you need to get that battery fully charged.

      When it is fully charged then yes, your 12-VDC system is designed to support ALL of your 12-VDC equipment.

      Have a Nice Day!

      DON

    • profile image

      Melika 

      3 months ago

      Hello we are just about to head out for our camping trip unfortunately the slide and the hitch are not running on the direct electricity connection from our home. Everything else works in the rv (lights, fridge) just the slide is moving and the hitch is not lowering down on the ball. When we are on the battery source then they seem to be working but very slowly ( Battery is not fully charged yet). But from my understanding everything sould work on direct electricity provided from the home. Could you please help??!! Thanks

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Your symptoms indicate that you have a bad power source at your site. They imply that your AC Voltage is varying radically at times.

      Also, your battery being at such a low level of 7.2 Volts says that your CONVERTER is not charging them. And your Converter is powered by your 110-VAC.

      Even your strange Coffee Pot problem indicates that its input voltage (110VAC is dropping low enough for the pot to not operate properly.

      Your interior lights, alarms,2-Way Fridge control circuit board and your temperature control panel all operate on 12-VDC from your batteries.

      You should get someone responsible at your campground to check your site's power at their 50-Amp connector., RIGHT AWAY!.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Robert 

      3 months ago

      I have a 2016 414 Fuzion Chrome, I moved to a spot that had a 50 amp plug for a welding machine. They changed it to a 50 amp plug to fit my RV. The first day my front AC starting making noise. The mobile RV guy said the compressor froze up. He changed it. It worked for a while and started cycling on and off again like the old one did. Second, strangely by coffee pot turned on and then smelt funny and quit working. Bought a new one and plugged it in and it quit heating the same way before it made the first pot. Last I woke up this 3rd day and my batteries are down to 7.2 volts the fridge is beeping and I have no DC lighting working. Also my propane detector is beeping. Could all these things just go bad at one time? Or do I need an electrician to test the plug and see if I am getting some kind of bad voltage from the plug burning stuff out? HELP!!

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      First of all, are you talking about an INVERTER which uses your 12-VDC from your battery to provide 110-VAC for certain of your electrical appliances such as your TV's?

      Or are you talking about your CONVERTER, which uses your 110-VAC to provide 12-VDC for certain of your 12-volt powered equipments and keeps your COACH batteries charged?

      And, that inline fuse is there to prevent direct short conditions in your wiring from melting wiring and insulation. damaging electrical equipment and causing fires.

      So, it look like your son has wired the new Inverter (?????) improperly.

      Rewire it properly and your problem should go away.

      Have a Good Day,

      DON

    • profile image

      Mark Hodges 

      3 months ago

      My son put in a new inverter in my jayco fifth wheel trailer now it blows the big in line fuse on the battery positive cable. I replaced it but it blows right away. I have power as long as I’m hooked up to ac power. My landing gear jacks won’t work unless I’m hooked up to ac power. Any thoughts

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Bruce Fendrick - Your Converter is supposed to change from CHARGE to TRICKLE CHARGE to NO CHARGE modes depending on what it detects as the demand by the battery itself.

      So, Yes, it should turn itself down.

      Gave a great Day!

      DON

    • profile image

      bruce fendrick 

      3 months ago

      Thanks Don...I thought the converter charged both ignition battery and rv battery...yesterday I put the converter back in and started the generator...checked the batteries and noticed that rv battery was alls that was charging...so I misunderstood which battery get charged...

      will this converter model stop charging once the battery is charged??

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Bruce Fendrick - The newer Converters are "demand" systems that only charge if the battery being charged is not already fully charged.

      They do not just sit there and "trickle charge" per se when the battery is fully charged.

      So,there must be some level of demand before the Converter will operate.

      If it does not charge a discharged battery then your Converter may actually be bad.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      bruce fendrick 

      3 months ago

      I have a series 6300A Model 6345C power convertor. Everything seems to work but the battery charging circuit. I removed the convertor to see if I could notice any hot spots or bad components but everything looks good. I ohmed out the bridge rectifier and it was ok. Any ideas as to why the charging circuit isn't working??

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Good additional information.

      So, your Inverter button is typically a low-current switch that operates on your 12-VDC.

      It actually provides this 12-VDC power to a high current solenoid that in turn switches the 12-VDC over to the Inverter itself.

      Considering this configuration, either your "Button" is not functioning, or the Solenoid is bad, or most likely, you have a bad 12-VDC fuse in your 12-Volt fuse panel in your RV.

      So, check those fuses.

      Have a nice day,

      DON

    • profile image

      Jeff j 

      3 months ago

      Thank you for your response. When we are towing it, we usually turn on the inverter so the refrigerator is on. When the 5th wheel is plugged into the truck the battery’s are fully charged. For some unknown reason when we have the battery’s on and they are fully charged the inverter button doesn’t turn on anymore.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      3 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Jeff J - You should remember that your RV has a (what I call CONVERTER) which uses 110-VAC to keep your COACH batteries charged. It also has an INVERTER which uses your 12-VDC power from your COACH batteries to generate 110-VAC for certain of your appliances such as your TV's and your Fridge.

      If you do not have a 110-VAC source such as Shore power or your Generator, then your batteries will not be recharged and you will eventually not have an adequate input for your INVERTER, which will then be unable to power your appliances.

      SO, keep those batteries in good shape and make sure they are fully charged so that everything works well when you are going to be OFF LINE for a a day or so.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Jeff j 

      3 months ago

      We have a 2016 5th wheel. When we went to use it recently for the first time the invertor button would not turn on to run power to our refrigerator when the generator isn’t on and it’s not plugged into shore. We’ve checked all the fuses and they are good. What else could it be? Thank you

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Joseph - Your symptoms imply that the battery is shorted.

      I am assuming that when you say "everything shuts off" you mean everything that runs on 12-VDC,

      First check if the battery has water in it, and then check its age, it could be bad.

      Without the wire attached, measure the voltage across the battery terminals and there should be some level of voltage measurable when you check.

      If the battery is over 5 years old, you have gotten "all of the good from ot, so go ahead and replace it anyway.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Joseph 

      4 months ago

      I recently purchased a 1988 aljo 5th wheel travel trailer, shore power works but not charging system, i replaced the converter and everything works the same except when i connect the cable that goes to the battery everything shuts off

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Larry - remember you have two 12-Volt systems, the CHASSIS (or engine) system, and the COACH (or interior system).

      Far too many people neglect the COACH batteries and they either go dry or just age and go bad.

      You should check your COACH batteries and make sure you have voltage from them to your interior 12-VDC systems and accessories.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Larry A Rossiter 

      4 months ago

      I have a 1990 bounder RV, when i start engine all 12 volt electrical does not work.

      please let me know what i can check

      thank you

    • profile image

      eric roberts 

      4 months ago

      Hi your welcome good content is always good to read

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Eric Roberts - Thanks so much for the kind words. I hope it is helpful to my fellow campers as they travel around and enjoy this great lifestyle.

      Thanks again,

      DON

    • eric 45272F9B profile image

      Eric Roberts 

      4 months ago from Mirfield

      Hi this is by far one of the most comprehensive articles about Motorhome (RV) electrics. I will use this a great reference point in future if i get stuck ! many thanks Eric Roberts www.batteriesontheweb.co.uk/blog/

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Trust me, you're not the first to make such a wiring error.

      I'm glad you found the problem, and that I could help you,

      DON

    • profile image

      Frankc643 

      4 months ago

      Don,

      Thanks for the reply. Yes I looked at it again. Switched two wires at the back of the switch and Bam. We are good to go. I got to get a better pic before I start pulling wires.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Kerry Burton - You did not provide me with ery much information, so, I will assume you are talking about your 12-VDC AUX CUT-OFF switch, which is used to disconnect your internal 12-VDC equipment from the COACH battery so it will not be drained when the motorhome is placed in storage.

      Well, this switch actually uses the 12-VDC to control a high current solenoid that actually switches the power connection.

      Over the years, I did have the solenoid on one of my motorhomes go bad, but it is not a common problem.

      Also, you should realize that the actual switch uses your COACH battery for its power, so your battery could need charging by your Converter.

      I recommend checking your COACH battery to see that it is fully charged, and then I would check the high current solenoid that does the actual switching of the power.

      Good luck,

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Frankc643 - First of all, your remote operated a circuit in a box usually mounted in an upper cabinet of your RV, so it uses different wires to control your awnings.

      You real problem is with your wiring at the manual switches. Understand that your awning is a simple device that if power is applied to it it will operate in one direction and if the power is applied in the opposite direction, it will operate in the other direction.

      Because everything operates properly with the remote wiring, then logic says your problem is right up there where you have been" rewiring" things when you changed the switches.

      Your manual switch wiring usually goes up to this remote control box where there they are combined with the wiring of the control box. Check for a loose connection inside this box, or carefully check your wiring for a wiring error.

      Good luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Kerry Burton 

      4 months ago

      We turned on the main power switch in our Jayco Greyhawk mh the other day. Now it will not turn off. Everything works in the motorhome, the switch does not turn off the power and the indicator light stays on . What do you think? Do I need a new switch? thanks,Kerry

    • profile image

      Frankc643 

      4 months ago

      I have a 2016 Thor Challenger KT with electric awnings. I recently blew a fuse for awnings. While troubleshooting. I pulled out a pin on on the rocker switches that extend and retract. I ordered new switches and installed. One awning works fine. The other only retracts. Thinking bad switch soI switched the switch with the good awning. That switch worked fine. The bad awning only would retract again. To make things even more adventurous. The Rapid Remote extend and retracts both awnings with no issues. I’m at a loss. Any ideas?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      4 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      D.Brandow - But remember, the vast majority of RV owners do not have the skills, tools or even the desire to climb onto the roof of a motorhome or other camper and start disassembling the "pressurized gas system" of an Air Conditioner.

      I try very hard to formulate my responses to the TYPICAL RV Owner who wants either a "quick fix" or reliable information on who they can contact to fix their more complicated problems.

      Thanks for the information though, it is spot on for the skilled repairman.

      Have a great day,

      DON

    • profile image

      D Brandow 

      4 months ago

      Don Bobbitt

      6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Tom - As RV's and their Air Conditioners age certain accessories and appliances age and the AC in particular can become a "current hog". The Compressor in the AC unit will draw more current as it cycles ON.

      You can try to not use certain other appliances when you are operating your AC in a very HOT climate to avoid kicking the breaker, but sometimes, it is more logical to consider having your AC serviced (compressor checked) and if it is bad, replace the AC.

      Also, in HOT times of the day, unplug some of those other things you have operating like; chargers, fans, toasters, electric frying pans, and such to lower your overall current load.

      Good Luck,

      DON

      A dirty condensing coil will cause the refrigerant not to cool down properly. This causes a higher than normal pressure for the compressor to pump. This causes the compressor to draw a higher amperage than normal. Before discarding an older a/c unit because it blows the breaker during hot spells I would check the condensing coil for debris. You can remove the cover on the roof to access the coil.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Your symptoms are a little confusing to me, but you should know that your 2-Way Fridge control circuit board, your interior lights, your alarms and other interior items in your camper operate on your 12-VDC battery.

      Check this battery, does it have water and is it taking a charge from the Converter?

      These symptoms are common for a bad battery, and you may have to replace it.

      Have a Nice Day!

      DON

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Matt - That battery is designed to provide 12-VDC electrical power for your trailers lights, alarms, 2-way Fridge control board, Temperature control board and other items.

      You must keep this battery in good shape and fully charged. Your camper should have a built in Converter which uses the external 110VAC at your campsite to keep the battery charged.

      Your symptom are common for a bad battery. Check the age of the battery, check the wter level in the battery, and if it doesn't charge properly, you probably should replace it.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Matt 

      5 months ago

      I have a travel trailer that is 30 amp and has one battery for an electronica tongue jack, when I plug the RV into a sure power source all the electrical components kick on for 10 or 15 seconds and then shut off and this continues as long as the travel trailer is plugged in, when it is unplugged there are no lights or anything with that work off of the battery, the LP leak detector does the same thing in concert with all the other electrical components and I have never used LP gas on this trailer Anything you could suggest?

    • profile image

      Terri 

      5 months ago

      A converter but only one of the plugs came on the refrigerator didn't come on I hit the ground reset fliptop all the switches and attempting to check the fuses right now I bought a few something to check and make sure they were okay and that's what I'm working on help please

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Terri - You mentioned that you have disconnected your batteries. Well, you must have those COACH batteries hooked up and in good condition.

      The batteries in an RV provide power for a number of things inside your RV including; interior lights, 2-way Fridge control circuit board, Temperature control circuit board, CO and other alarms, to name a few.

      This battery is kept charged by your RVs Converter which operates on your 110-VAC RV external power.

      And, at times, even without a battery the Converter is capable of powering some of the items I mentioned, but it is typically NOT designed to handle such a load.

      So, reconnect your batteries and keep them charged.

      Have a Great Day!

      DON

    • profile image

      Terri 

      5 months ago

      I'm trying to figure out what I need or who I need to call or a problem last week my RV would just parked and I live in made this loud continuous clicking noise for a while and then stopped then this next week the same thing happened but then I lost all the power when I went and pools all the plugs check things out by my son I couldn't find anything wrong but it back in and it work but then again it happened and I lost all the power again I'm at a loss batteries aren't hooked up I'm hooked to a source have electricity and I would dearly appreciate some advice and what I should do next who I should go to please and thank you for your help

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      OK, First of all, three electrical heaters can draw a lot of current and this is what probably caused your problem.

      With this in mind, you should know that some of your receptacles are on a GFCI circuit. This circuit consists of a MASTER GFCI receptacle and two or more SLAVE receptacles,.

      They are usually placed near the bathroom and kitchen areas, and in case they sense a current flow between the COMMON wire and the Campers GROUND in any of the GFCI receptacles it will kick the reset switch of the MASTER GFCI receptacle.

      With all of this in mind, you should check your MASTER GFCI receptacle and reset the button.

      This is the most likely cause of your problem.

      Have a Great Day!

      DON

    • profile image

      JACQUELINE CULP 

      5 months ago

      Hello,

      My daughter purchased a 1979Cruis Air by Georgie Bay Motorhomes. It is stable in her driveway. She is in the process of getting the transmission repaired.

      In the meantime. I was in there cleaning up and turned on 3 electrical heaters because the heating system is not blowing heat.

      All of a sudden the electrical heaters went out. I have been trying to get everything running again but not have much luck. Now. The bathroom light is on and a plugged in lamp light is on.

      Can you give me some advise on what to do first? I have been reading comments and thinking I can check the battery making sure it has water.

      but if this doesn't work what's next?

      We are first time motor owners

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      NICK - First of all, get your Battery hooked up properly.

      Then, there are several things that could have happened;

      1- You probably have a blown fuse in your fuse panel under your hood. This is most likely your problem if nothing works. You should be able to check for blown fuses in this fuse panel.

      2- All vehicles have what is called a "Fuseable Link" that is inline with your hot line. This exists in case you have a short occur in your vehicle and it is designed to "burn out" if there is a direct short to ground. This may require a service center to get it replaced.

      3- Another thing tht could have happened is for your battery itself have a burnt out line internal to the battery. This is not likely your problem.

      Good luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Nick 

      5 months ago

      I might have hooked my batterys power up wrong and now i dont have power to dash or ignition or hydraulic jacks i cant get it to crank

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Trippy - Well, first of all, your Surge Protector is doing its job.

      First of all, you may have a problem with your Coach Batteries requiring a high level of AC-Current from your Converter.

      But, if this is within normal limits, your campsite power should be able to handle the load. Your Surge Protector is indicating that the voltage level from your campsite is being pulled down below the safe limit.

      Your 2013 Excursion has a 50-AMP service system, but I suspect your campsite power is not providing you with the full 50-Amp service.

      I suggest that you let the campground staff know that your site is not providing you with the full 50-Amp service you paid for.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Trippy 

      5 months ago

      I have a 2013 Excursion. When plugged into shorepower the surge guard gets a low voltage fault and shuts down the power when the battery switch is turned on if battery switch turned off all is good. If running generator all is good. Trippy

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      5 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Sue - First of all, the generator gets its power for starting from your COACH 12-VDC battery. So, I suggest that you check your 12-VDC Fuse panel and make sure there are no blown DC fuses.

      Also, A lot of people forget to take care of their COACH battery(s) and they can go bad.

      So, check that the battery has water in it and is taking a charge from your Converter.

      Often, the battery(s) go bad, but the owner doesn't know it because internal DC voltage is being provided by the Converter and not the battery.

      And, of course, your generator starting circuitry is powered by your COACH battery.

      Good Luck!

      DON

    • profile image

      Sue 

      6 months ago

      I have a 2009 holiday rambler and i was plugged into a 30 amp shore power and running the roof top ac, tried to start the onan generator and somehow blew a CB. Now no power to the generator control panel. We checked all the CBs that I know of. Any ideas?

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Bruce - I'm Glad I could help you.

      Have a Great Day!

      DON

    • profile image

      bruce fendrick 

      6 months ago

      Don while I was exercising I had an epiphany...I know there was a GFI circuit in the bathroom...there was also a red switch in there and it was turned off...I turned it on and I heard the pump working...thanks for the suggestion...

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Bruce Fendrick - The typical Rv will have several switches that are conveniently placed where you can turn your water pump to ON or OFF. One is usually in the kitchen area (under the sink?) , one is often in the bathroom and one is often in your RV service area.

      They are wire similar to your home so that any of them can function for you.

      The wiring is not a direct thing, but rather a logical combination that I would rather not explain to a non-electrician.

      Anyway, any of the switches should turn the water pump ON or OFF.

      If this is not happening, I would check that you have water in your water tank, or water line. If there is no water, the pump will not operate. Also, your Water Heater will not operate if there is no water in the heater tank.

      Check these things for your problem.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      bruce fendrick 

      6 months ago

      My water pump doesn't work with the switch. The pump works and fuse is good. The switch has red/white stripe on top, red wire in middle, and white/red stripe on bottom. I'm not sure where these wires go but may go to a relay or something. Any ideas...

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Larry - I assume that you mean your COACH batteries because you used the plural.

      As to the location of the main fuse from these batteries, different Rv manufacturers place it in different locations.

      But, on the other hand, because the wires are so large this fuse is usually near the batteries.

      I would also check the large fuses (30-amp each) on your internal 12-VDC fuse panel to make sure one or both of them hasn't blown.

      Also, check your CONVERTER to make sure it doesn't have a blown fuse or "kicked out" breaker on it, considering that it is connected to these batteries and keeps them charged.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Larry Bassham 

      6 months ago

      Have a 2005 Winnebago Vectra. While installing new chasis batteries my wrench hit the frame and sparked. It blew a fuze someware. Where is the main isolation fuze on this coach and how do I reset it. Larry

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      6 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      In a motorhome, you have a CONVERTER which operates on the 110-VAC and charges your COACH batteries.

      If this is not working and the switch you mention is the one on the CONVERTER then you may have a BAD Converter.

      Use a multimeter and check if your COACH battery is shorted by measuring the DC Voltage across the terminals of the battery.

      The most likely problem is a shorted battery.

      Good luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Calvin Poole 

      6 months ago

      I have lost the 12 volts power on my 2015 Jayco Precept, the batteries if fully charger, look like the contractor that supplies power to the 12 volt system is not closing when I push the switch.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      7 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Kristine - First of all, your 12-VDC cigarette lighter receptacles (called 12-VDC charging plugs now) are powered by your engine battery.

      So if you found and checked the fuse for these receptacles and it was OK, then your problem must be either the receptacle itself or the wire from it to the fuse panel.

      See if you can trace this wire and look for loose connectors or a mashed or broken wire.

      I would go back and make sure that the fuse you checked is the right one???

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      Kristine 

      7 months ago

      Both of my cigarette lighter recepticals on my dash went out on my last trip. I was driving, had my tire monitor in one and a cellphone in the other. This is the first time I have had this issue. I have a 2012 Ford Fleetwood Terra. The panel lights and the radio are working fine. I checked the fuse and it seems fine (not split when I viewed it). I'm not sue what the issue can be. Would it be common that both recepticals need to be replaced at the same time? I have googled it, watched YouTube videos and can't figure out what to check next. If anyone has advice I would love the help. I already purchased a one new receptical but it doesn't arrive for a couple days.

    • Don Bobbitt profile imageAUTHOR

      Don Bobbitt 

      7 months ago from Ruskin Florida

      Kirsteinem - Your microwave operates on 110-VAC from your AC Power panel, while your lights operate on 120VDC from your COACH battery.

      With this being the case, I would check my AC Power panel for a breaker that has "kicked out". If all Breakers are OK, I would then go to my campsite power box and check if the breakers in it are OK.

      Good Luck,

      DON

    • profile image

      kirsteinm 

      7 months ago

      our convention oven-microwave and EMS panel dont work.all lights work

    working

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