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Troubleshooting, Repairing, and Replacing an RV Camper Power Converter

Updated on April 6, 2017
Randy Godwin profile image

Randy is a lifelong lover of the outdoors and especially camping. This article is intended to help the RVer save money and time on repairs.

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Many RVs and camper trailers use a power converter to operate the lights, refrigerator, vent fans, and perhaps the thermostat on the heating system. The converter uses the 110-volt AC power from the local power source and transforms it into the 12-volt DC these items require.

This article is intended to help you troubleshoot many converter problems and to repair or replace the unit if need be. Since there are different makes, types, and sizes of converters, this article will deal with problems common to most models.

Although electrical knowledge is helpful, it is not necessary in order to be able to check the power converter or to repair or replace it.

For more basic information on how the electrical system on your RV works, see this article.

Safety Alert!

Always unplug the RV from the 110-volt power supply before attempting to repair any electrical components of the power converter unit.

Classic Travel Trailers

1959 Serro Scotty Sportsman
1959 Serro Scotty Sportsman | Source
1954 Airstream Globetrotter
1954 Airstream Globetrotter | Source

Types of Converter Problems

In most cases, a malfunctioning converter will just cease to function with the result being the total loss of power to any 12-volt DC fixtures or controls. In other cases, the converter will produce power, but not enough to run the 12-volt DC electrical system.

But until the onboard 12-volt batteries are exhausted of their charge, the problems will not become apparent. The power converter is supposed to maintain a constant charge on these batteries, supplying variable voltage depending on the amount being drawn from the 12-volt DC system.

Remember that the onboard batteries must be in good shape and able to hold a full charge. One bad battery will draw power from the other good batteries and will eventually cause them to fail also.

To check the batteries, it is necessary to fully charge them and then disconnect them from the others to check their recharging abilities. Check them with a multimeter, after they sit awhile, to determine if one or more is losing voltage.

Troubleshooting the RV Power Converter

The first step in determining the problem is to start from the beginning—that is, the point where the 110-volt AC supply enters the RV power converter.

  • With the RV power supply connected, check the voltage at the point it enters the converter. It should be between 108 to 130 volts. Anything in this range is okay!
  • The next order of business is to check the voltage where it connects to the 12 volt DC breaker box. It should be 11-13 volts to operate satisfactorily. Anything less indicates a bad power converter.

Once we know the problem is a malfunctioning RV power converter, we can check the inner components of the unit.

1. Power Converter Fan

RV power converters use a small fan to keep the electrical components cool while the unit is charging. It should be possible to hear the cooling fan running intermittently while the converter is in use (the fan may operate only when the temperature reaches a certain point).

This fan normally uses the 110-volt AC line voltage to operate. If the voltage to the fan is in the correct range, the fan itself is probably malfunctioning. Replacing this fan is normally an easy project, but finding the right fan might be a problem. Note the make, part numbers, voltage, and any other information on the RV power converter fan motor, for use in obtaining a replacement online.

In some cases, a different make and model may be substituted as long as the voltage and amperage are similar and the motor fits in the space. If the voltage is not getting to the cooling fan from the thermostat, a replacement thermostat is needed. These can be found online as well.

A thermal sensor is used to switch the cooling fan on and off, depending on the operating temperature of the converter components. Make sure the current is getting past this sensor and to the cooling fan before buying a new fan.

If the fan itself, as opposed to the sensor, is not malfunctioning, you should be able to jump the sensor and cause the fan to operate. If this is the case, replace the sensor with one of equal temperature rating.

2. Resistors and Circuit Board

Some power converters rely on a resistor to control the voltage to the onboard batteries and the 12-volt DC system. In some models, the resistor is riveted to the converter box. When checked with the multimeter, the resistor should read from 3 to 13 volts, depending on the present charge of the battery, and which onboard 12-volt lights, fans, and other accessories are being used. If your batteries are not being fully charged, the resistor is often the culprit.

It may be necessary to disassemble the converter box to access this resistor. Be careful if the circuit board requires removal, or you may damage it. Drill out the rivet and replace with the correct replacement resistor.

If the exact replacement part is difficult to locate, you may find a satisfactory replacement at an auto supply store because this type of resistor is used in many automotive applications. As long as the values are the same, almost any 12-volt DC resistor should work. Once this resistor is replaced, the onboard batteries should stay charged with the proper amount of voltage.

3. Replacement

Sometimes it’s just better to bite the bullet and buy a new converter, especially if you aren’t the DIY type of person or just don’t have the time to chase down parts. But actually, it isn’t all that costly to install a new power converter. Installation is very easy too.

Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters are fan-cooled and deliver clean, dependable 12-volt DC power to the lights and other appliances in your motorhome or camping trailer. Choose from 45-, 60-, and 80-amp models to fit your particular RV power requirements.

If you’re thinking of replacing the 12-volt DC breaker panel, or updating an older motorhome or travel trailer, the Parallax 7345 Power Center combines the power converter with a reliable breaker system for dependable, clean 12-volt DC power to supply your RV. (For more on breaker systems in RVs, see this article). Parallax also provides 45- and 55- amp converters and breaker panels separately.

A good 12-volt converter system can make or break a camping trip. Learning to repair and understand how the system works will eventually pay off on one of these occasions. Good luck!

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    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Nick, you can try connecting a good battery charger and if everything works normally then you probably have a bad converter.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Gary, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the frame of the camper. A bad ground here could cause the problem.

      Randy

    • profile image

      GaryS64 3 days ago

      Thanks Randy,

      It's a new battery and tied into a spare tap on the converter block. It works when on 110 but not with AC unplugged and using only the 12 volt battery. I guess I'll need to troubleshoot the leads from the trailer battery on back.

    • profile image

      Nick 3 days ago

      Plugged into 120v , 12v dc (2 6v deep discharge) in series not charging

      With engine running dcv normal

      With Generator dcv normal

      Charged batteries by driving dc still ok

      Suspect WFCO-8855 120ac on pigtail 40 amp fuses good, no hum ( 2004 Southwind 32v).

      Amazon has a WFCO9855 for $159.00

      I will look for 13.6v before I pull the trigger

      Suggestions

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Gary, the jack should operate on any 12 volt DC circuit with the correct amperage to power the jack.

      Randy

    • profile image

      GaryS64 4 days ago

      Hi:

      Need help with an issue.

      I just connected my electric tongue jack to a spare circuit in my RV Camper Trailer Power Converter Center . But the jack does not operate on the trailer's battery (Brake power). Are there only certain circuits that will run on the trailer's 12 volt battery?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Blaine, is it the 12 volt DC system, the 120 volt system, or both?

      Randy

    • profile image

      Blaine Edington 2 weeks ago

      Need help rewiring my pop up camper I had just purchased it's a jenco pop-up

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Kevin, a humming noise is probably the fan in the power converter. More than likely a generator issue.

      Randy

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      Kevin S 3 weeks ago

      When generator is running my lights are surging or flickering so to speak. NOW when on shore powe its prrfect minus a little hum coming from the converter area. Any ideas ?? Help !!!!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Good news, Mark. Pleased you're up and running again! :)

    • profile image

      mark buso 3 weeks ago

      Back in business, new one installed and working like a champ. A piece of plastic fell out of the old one, thru the fan screen. Unsure where it came from, but new one is humming nicely. Thank you for your help

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Good news, Mark! :)

      Randy

    • profile image

      mark buso 3 weeks ago

      Its under the refrigerator. Mounted on the side of wall. Both fuses were not blown, so I have another one ordered and will arrive tomorrow. Thank you for your help.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Peter, you may try moving the furnace wires to another circuit and see if this helps. You do realize the furnace thermostat operates on the 12 volt DC system and controls the temp settings. You may check the voltage at the thermostat to see if there's a bad ground or low voltage.

      Randy

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      peter hyde 4 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      Yes, the furnace is on the same circuit as the tea kettle and micro.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Peter, is the furnace on the same circuit as the outlets for the micro or tea kettle?

      Randy

    • profile image

      peter hyde 4 weeks ago

      my furnace comes on barely blowing and when I start the micro or tea kettle it kicks up to normal????

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Mark, sometimes the converter is part of the 12 volt fuse or breaker panel. And yes, the power converter steps down the voltage from 120 volts AC to 12 volts DC before it gets to the 12 volt DC breaker/fuse panel. You definitely have a converter of some sort. Let me know if you find it.

      Randy

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      mark buso 4 weeks ago

      I have taken the screws out of the unit and pulled out to find this is an iota distribution panel. Of course they quit making it 5 years ago, but there is a replacement model. 12 wires for fuses, one is not being used and 6 mini breakers all with number 12 wire feeding into them as well as wires that I assume bring in power to panel. Again not being versed on this I am assuming this is the source of the problem, or what I have messed up. Is there no converter somewhere in the trailer between the panel and the exterior plug in that has caused the problem? This is basically just a fuse box for the trailer. If there is a converter some place I may have cooked please let me know and I will try to find it.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Larry, connect a good battery charger and if everything works okay then a new converter is needed.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Pierre, thanks for reporting the solution to the problem. I'll remember this in the future. :)

      Randy

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      Pierre D 4 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      I was able to fix my isolator problem on my 1991 Roadtrek. It turn out that the isolator worked fine, but the power was not reaching the back/house battery when the alternator was on.

      I found a rusted connector near the isolator. It was linking the back batteries to the isolator.

      Replaced it and now all is working as it should.

      Thanks against.

    • profile image

      larry 4 weeks ago

      hello i have 6612 power converter

      only thing is working right now is the 2 outlets

      no inside lights switched over from converter to battery still no in side lights

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Mark, yes you've more than likely cooked the power converter. You're lucky more items were not affected. A new converter will probably do the job. Let me know if it doesn't.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Mark Buso 4 weeks ago

      We have a 2005 exiss horse trailer. Due to absence of my mind, I accidentally plugged our trailer into a 220 outlet at home and you know the rest of the story. I moved the trailer and plugged into a 30 amp plug and it ran for about 3 days as you said until batteries were exhausted, and now just a humming no lights etc. I would like to know if this is a difficult bear to tackle. The breakers and fuses are in below a cabinet just before you crawl into nose of trailer. I'm assuming this is the converter. I hope I did not cook anything else, I know it hit the microwave but fridge and a/c were working fine, until batteries went dead.Please advise when you are able. I also bought 2 new deep cell batteries and have now turn them to the off position in the battery box

      Mark Buso

      816-694-7691

    • profile image

      Pierre D 5 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      found the isolator yesterday. However, it sits below the battery, deep inside the compartment. It will take a while to access. Will try to do it this weekend and report.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Pierre, it very well could be an isolator. Let me know if it tested bad as other RVers may have the same problem. Thanks!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Pierre D 5 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      just read in another website about "battery isolator". It could be my problem.

      If my van as one, it might be malfunctioning and cutting off the power on both directions, while, if I understand correctly, it is there to allow the alternator from the van to charge all batteries (1+2) when the van engine is running, while "isolating" the van's battery from being drained at night at the same time than the other 2 "house" batteries.

      What is your view on this?

      I will be looking for it tonight. I understand to test it, it is like a big diode. Current in only one direction.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Pierre, yes you can use the van generator with an on/off switch, but I'm not sure why the batteries aren't charging properly. There could be a short somewhere in the system.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Sorry to be so long in replying Melynda, but I've been without power due to hurricane Irma. Check the negative battery ground where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. A bad ground here will cause all sorts of problems to the 12 volt DC system. Also, try connecting a good battery charger to see if the power converter is bad.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Pierre D 5 weeks ago

      RV batteries not charging while driving, is this normal?

      I have a 1991 Roadtreck van we just purchased (Dodge B250). I notice on our first long trip that the RV batteries are not charging while driving. We had rented 2 RVs previously and they did.

      Is this normal? the power converter is a PD7231. The manual talks about conversion of 120 to 12V but not about letting the van generator charging the RV batteries.

      We often camp at site without electricity so this is important for these to recharge during the day.

      In the case where it is so, can I connect the RV batteries to the van generator/battery (with a switch to isolate at night and protect van battery drainage when parked overnight).

      Thank you for your help.

    • profile image

      Melynda 5 weeks ago

      In a Winnebago MH, we just got to our camping spot and heard a popping noise while putting it into park and set the brake. Now have no electrical, no back up camera, can't roll up windows, can't put levelers down. Batteries are brand new, no blown fuses that we can find. What are we missing??

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Scott, check the voltage at the battery. The converter may be the problem.

      Randy

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      Scott 5 weeks ago

      We have a travel trailer, why would our inside bulbs keep blowing.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      It's possible Joe, a bad battery can cause all sorts of problems.

      Randy

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      Joe Miller 6 weeks ago

      Hey Randy my battery is now at 10.69v after sitting for 5 days i had it completely disconnected from the camper during that time do you think that could cause the strange power issues i was seeing it was at 12.69v on saturday

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      David, it is usually near the 12 volt DC power panel. There should be access to it from either outside or from an access panel near the power panel. There are so many different models of campers I have no way of knowing where your converter is. Sorry! Try following the pigtail to the power panel connections as well.

      Randy

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      David P Jones 6 weeks ago

      where is the power converter on a 24ft fleetwood mallard

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Daniel, have you checked for a loose ground in the 110 volt power panel? Often during the transit to a campground the power panel wires can work loose, especially over rough roads.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Daniel 6 weeks ago

      I have checked 100% all the breakers I changed the GFCI outlets. I'm getting 110 at the plugs but nothing out of them. Also my batteries won't charge from being plugged in or from the gen. Everything worked fine then we unplugged it and went camping and noticed it there. So when I got home I plugged it back in and yep still nothing but like I said I'm getting 110 to the plugs. And the GFCI plugs won't reset or test.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Have you checked the main breaker for power yet, Daniel? It's not uncommon for the main breaker to go bad or not reset. Can you tell me anything else?

      Randy

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      Daniel 6 weeks ago

      Took my 40' fifth wheel out for the first time and all my 110v won't work. I brought it home and plugged it back it and still nothing.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Hey Joe, try connecting a good battery charger and see if everything works fine . If so, the converter is more than likely bad.

      Randy

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      Joe Miller 6 weeks ago

      Took our 2002 Coleman Westlake popup out all last week (first time out this season) everything worked fine for the first couple of days then the interior lights, pump and heater stopped working. I checked the rocker switch under the sink and it seemed flaky so I replaced it with a standard on/off switch. Things were good for a day or so then the power kept switching from the converter power to battery power for the lights, furnace and pump.

      I disconnected the battery at the plug on the front of the popup. For the rest of the trip the lights etc... would work for anywhere from an hour to a few hours then turn off for anywhere from 10 min to not coming on for hours. It was like this for the last couple of days of our trip. It was never consistent when we would or would not have power to the lights etc... The fan was blowing on the converter and I even had another small fan blowing on it thinking it was over heating.

      Everything seemed to work fine off of the battery when the shore power went out battery tested at 12.6v when I got home. All 110v outlets never stopped working. The converter is the WFCO 8725 I was going to just order another one since this one is now 15 years old. Just wanted to see if anyone had any other ideas since I didn't see anything like my problem in a search result 10 pages long.

      Thanks,

      Joe

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Barbara, check the main 120 volt breaker first to be sure power is getting to the camper. The lights are probably on the 12 volt DC system. What power source are you plugged in to? Make sure there's power at the plug in receptacle.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Stump, have you tried connecting a battery charger up to see if the converter is wired properly? If everything works then the converter is either bad or not wired correctly. Also, try cleaning the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper as a bad ground here will affect the 12 volt system.

      Randy

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      Stump 7 weeks ago

      New install PD 4135 110 works great fan doesn't seem to operate. 12 volts and continuity but no fan no blown fuse will work on 12 volts then stop. Plug in start over. How low us be battery supposed to b before converter c fan comes on

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Charlie, try connecting a good battery charger up to the battery--if you have one--and if everything works fine then yes, a new converter is likely needed. Have you tried cleaning the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper yet? A bad connection here will cause similar problems. Hope this helps you find the problem!

      Randy

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      Charlie 7 weeks ago

      Randy, my trailer is hooked permanently to 110 outlet. At beginning of year had no issues. Now when the lights are turned on they are dim and will dim more when another is turned on. Now the furnace will not ignite if there is something else being used or turned on. Am I looking at a converter issues? Thanks.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      James, are you sure it's not the fan running?

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Brendan, have you tried cleaning the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper yet? This connection is the main ground for everything 12 volt powered in the camper and is prone to corrosion because of it. Make sure both the cable end and the connection spot is clean.

      As for the battery and converter, a bad battery can overwork a converter and a bad converter can kill a battery. If the converter is working properly you get a reading of 13+ volts at the battery. If you suspect the converter is bad try connecting a good battery charger to the batteries and if everything works okay then the converter is probably at fault. Hope this helps..

      Randy

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      Brendan 8 weeks ago

      I recently went camping, and ran into an issue with everything 12volt related in the camper towards the end of our trip. I replaced the battery, due to the age and performance of the old battery, but I was curious could the battery's age/performance affect the converter, or is there a good chance the converter needs to be replaced as well? I am also having a hard time locating the converter to test it on my 2004 Fleetwood Terry 255BHS

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Larry, are you sure this is a 240 volt model? I wouldn't hook up to anything until learning for sure what the wires are for. Are you sure there's no pigtail connection as there should be?

      Randy

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      Larry 8 weeks ago

      i have a imperal camper on the left front there is no plug to connected to the 240 where do I find it or how do I replace it i see a postive and negative wire do I just get a new plug and hook it up there

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Bre, if you have a main fuse in the power panel you can eliminate the circuit breaker.

      Randy

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      Bre 2 months ago

      Hi Randy,

      It's Kevin's wife...thank you so much for sharing your time and knowledge! So we are wondering if we need the circuit breaker at all?

      Bre

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Kevin, check to see if there's a circuit breaker inline on the positive batter cable leading back to the converter. Not all campers have this breaker, but if yours does it should be located either near the battery box or the converter. Hope this helps you out.

      Randy

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      Kevin 2 months ago

      Hi Randy - just got a used 2011 forest river; it didn't have a battery installed. I installed a battery and everything worked fine at least for a few minutes after (radio, lights, pump). However, now that I've pulled it out a few hours later and unplugged I can't get power (and the propane alarm is constantly alarming). The alarm goes off if I plug in to the hitch without the charging line 'active' - but still no lights, etc. I can run everything if I activate the charging line (I have a switch on the charging line).

      It doesn't sound like converter problems - but feels like I blew something when I plugged it into the hitch. Thoughts?

      (I'm going to clean the ground and re-attach right now...)

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Great news, Tim! Glad I could help. :)

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      Tim Tanton 2 months ago

      Thanks for that advice - Randy! I sanded the area of the ground connection and reconnected - problem solved!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Joe, how about the battery? Is it holding a proper charge? Have you checked the fluid level in the batteries?

      Randy

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      Joe 2 months ago

      The 12v systems seems to fluctuate. lights dim than brighten. when they brighten I hear a cooling fan come on. Do I need to replace the converter or do I have a short circuit somewhere?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Tim, check the negative battery cable where it connects to the steel frame of the camper. This connection is prone to corrosion and will cause the effects you described.

      Randy

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      Tim Tanton 2 months ago

      Hi Randy, I have a 2008 Fleetwood tent trailer with a WFCO converter. Everything works fine when connected to shore power, but nothing works when I unplug from 120V. Battery is recent and seems OK - reads a resting voltage of 13V when disconnected from everything for 6hrs. Working with shore power not connected, I have confirmed normal battery voltage is making it to converter, but when I measure voltage across DC fuses, it is zero volts. Does this mean converter should be replaced?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Miriha, the negative battery cable has to be grounded to the camper frame in order for the 12 volt DC system to work properly. You may have to look underneath the camper or look at the converter end of the negative cable.

      Randy

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      Miriha 2 months ago

      Randy there is no other wires coming from the battery other than the pos and neg. Should there be one? I cannot see where it goes once it hits beneth the floor of camper.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hello Mirihi, have you checked the negative battery cable where it is attached to the steel frame of the camper yet? If this connection is corroded or rusty you may not be getting a proper ground. Check this first and get back to me if it doesn't help.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Miriha 2 months ago

      Good Evening Randy,

      So I think I have more than a converter problem.

      Converter was replaced back in April and new battery last saturday. I have very dim lights and can no longer run the on board dvd/radio. I checked voltage on converter which is 9.93 and battery is now reading 9.83 do I need a new battery again along with converter. What could be draining/burning up both. My fridge is a 2 way with 12 volt thermal panel. Could that be part of my problem. Looked for an inline fuse on pos powerline but can't see one. I am beyond confused and fearful to add another 300.00 converter. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. Have a 2006 Fleetwood mallard 24' travel trailer that is parked permanently.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Chris, they should give the dimensions for the new converter but there's usually a bit more room than provided for the old one.

      Randy

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      Chris 2 months ago

      Thanks Randy. Do you think a progressive dynamics 45amp unit will connect ok. Provided there is space.

      Cheers chris

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hey Chris, yes the converter is more than likely toast. And a new 45 amp should be easy to install as well.

      Randy

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      Chris sims 2 months ago

      Hi Randy

      Would love to hear your thoughts on our problem. We have a 2005 trail cruiser travel trailer. It has an atwood distribution panel and a converter charger. Its been working fine. However, We hadnt been connected to shore power for several days until yesteday. When we plugged in we noticed the lights were super bright and hot and things like our extractor fans were running extra hard/fast. We also noticed the converter fan running constantly. We didnt think much of it but this morining i noticed our house battery was boiled dry and wrecked. I disconnected the shore supply pretty much straight away. I tested the voltage at the shore supply and found that good at 120v. I tested the 12v dc conections on the distrubution panel and found them running at 22 volts.! Eek. So i assume thats why the battery got cooked and the lights and extrs bright and hot. The other thing i noticed was the fan on the converter stops whe n the battery is completely disconnected when on shore power. Iam assuming i have a failed converter that will need replacing. Is there any other tests i should do? We have also been on some rough and dusty roads so could dust be causing this and it just need cleaning?

      If it needs replacing will the progressive dynamics 45amp converter charger be ok? Our existing unit is 45amp? I assume from your post that removal of the old unit and replacement is fairly straight forward - almost a like for like change out?

      Many thanks cheers chris

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      David, You'll need to check the wiring on both furnace and hood vent for a dead short of some sort. Do you know if any other items are on the same circuit?

      Randy

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      David P 2 months ago

      I have 2 circuits blowing fuses . 1 is my furnace and the other the hood vent . Everything else is good . Fuses blow immediately when trying to insert new ones . Where to start ?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      lika, yes you can use another power converter, just be sure the amperage requirement is the same or better than the old converter.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Amy, what does the thermostat control?

      Randy

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      Ilka 2 months ago

      hey, we have a '98 slide in camper and when we bought it all electrical was working fine even after sitting for a while before our first trip everything was fine. So we packed up and got on the road. Arrived at our destination the fridge the light above the fridge and and the ac was not working only the the lights on the other side of the camper. I am suspecting the converter but i am not sure. The camper manufacturer has gone out of business so what am I going to do if it is the converter? Can i use an other brand?

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      Amy 2 months ago

      we have a 2007 Fleetwood Cobalt Pop up-we just bought "used" with a plug in thermostat (plugs into overhead light). When we plug in the battery digital thermostat the furnace blower comes on and then the thermostat burns up?

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Rick, sounds like a power converter problem. Try attaching a good battery charger to the batteries and if everything works fine then the converter is bad.

      Randy

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      Rick 2 months ago

      I have a 2009 Arctic fox camper. The fridge, furnace and light above the table all quit working at the same time. Everything else appears to work fine.

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      Mark woodruff 2 months ago

      I lost my rear a.c. all 12 volt lights refrigerator microwave and antenna booster. 110 plugs and tv still work. When I hooked the battery to a charger everything came on

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      I hope a new converter solves the problem, Al.

      Randy

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      Albrejo 2 months ago

      Thanks Randy - considering all the symptoms I'm experiencing, I guess it's time to replace the converter. I appreciate your advice!

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Albrejo, yes a bad converter can cause a dead cell in a new battery.

      Randy

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      Albrejo 2 months ago

      My camp trailer converter seems to work intermittently. Battery state varies between F,G, and C throughout the trip while I am plugged in to shore power. Converter model is wfco wf-8735-p.

      Also, last month we had a brand new battery completely die after sitting unused for 2 weeks. Can a bad converter kill a battery to a point it can't hold a charge?

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      TMVaughan 2 months ago

      Well that's good to know. So maybe when we get the converter, the A/C and fridge will work ago. I confused you. All the Outlets ARE working, that's the trouble. But neither TV that are plugged into the outlets will come on. So they must have gotten damaged. We will be replacing those over the weekend. But now you've given me hope that we won't have to replace the whole A/C unit and/or the fridge too!

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      TMV, the AC thermostat is controlled by the 12 volt system if you have a wall mount thermostat. Don't know why the outlets aren't all working.

      Randy

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      TMVaughan 2 months ago

      Yes, Randy, thank you. We checked all the power supplies with voltage meter. The converter is definitely not powering out and on this model, the breaker panel and converter are one unit, so we are replacing the whole thing. Fingers are crossed. But we are concerned because we are plugged into shore power, so we would think the A/C and the refrigerator would work, whether the converter does or not. All the DC plugs have full 110 power and neither of the TV's work either. So something definitely got fried. Weird that the microwave works fine.

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      Sda79 2 months ago

      I haven't checked this is the first camper I've ever owned did not know where to even start looking for the problem was told by some people at the nearby the camper parts place that sounded like I need the new converter

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Sda, do you have 110 volts at the power panel?

      Randy

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      Sda79 2 months ago

      Just bought a used camper with hot battery 12volt things work however no 120 volt items work with it plugged in and hot battery

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      TM, this sounds like some of the breakers are damaged beyond repair. You may have to replace some of them. I assume you've already checked the power to the breakers and it's okay. Am I correct in my assumption?

      Randy

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Hi Tonie, the installation of a power converter is normally a matter of connecting a few wires. Make sure you remember the former wiring and you should be fine.

      Randy

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      TMVaughan 2 months ago

      We own a 2015 Flagstaff Superlite. This morning lightening hit nearby. Now the Refrigerator, A/C and TV's don't' work. Neither do the attached interior lights. The outlet plugs work and the microwave works. It's almost like it's only getting 1/2 power. I checked the fuses, one looked damaged so I replaced it. The rest look ok. I've unplugged and plugged the whole unit and turned the breakers on and off, both at shore power and inside the camper. HELP! Mom-In-Law lives in it behind our house. She's 94 and we need to get her home back up and running!

      Thank you

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      Tonie 2 months ago

      Hi Randy I need some quick advice. I have a 1986 Avion. Our breaker panel melted due to a back breaker? or inoperable fan? not sure but we have decided to replace our entire control center. I have picked out the boondocker 1260 PC but not sure if the installation is something I can do myself. i can't find any videos to give me hope. Is it challenging to do this?

      Thanks for your helpful advice.

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      Carrie 2 months ago

      Thanks Randy, I put the battery charger on last night like you recommended and the charge was good this morning so the converter it is :)

      I appreciate the help!

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Carrie, the problem may be the power converter. Try connecting a good battery charger--not a trickle type--and if everything works okay then the converter needs replacing.

      Randy

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      Carrie 2 months ago

      Have a 2010 Class C RV and was having trouble with the battery keeping a charge. Replaced it but still having trouble with this. While camping we plug into a 110 box and by the 2nd day we begin to lose power and not able to run lights and A/C at the same time. When I put a trickle charge it seems to work but I would love to find the source of the problem. Any suggestions?

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      Randy Godwin 2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Articfox, the rheostat, which controls the charging of the batteries, is more than likely at fault.

      Randy