Troubleshooting, Repairing, and Replacing an RV Camper Power Converter

Updated on April 6, 2017
Randy Godwin profile image

Randy is a lifelong lover of the outdoors and especially camping. This article is intended to help the RVer save money and time on repairs.

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Many RVs and camper trailers use a power converter to operate the lights, refrigerator, vent fans, and perhaps the thermostat on the heating system. The converter uses the 110-volt AC power from the local power source and transforms it into the 12-volt DC these items require.

This article is intended to help you troubleshoot many converter problems and to repair or replace the unit if need be. Since there are different makes, types, and sizes of converters, this article will deal with problems common to most models.

Although electrical knowledge is helpful, it is not necessary in order to be able to check the power converter or to repair or replace it.

For more basic information on how the electrical system on your RV works, see this article.

Safety Alert!

Always unplug the RV from the 110-volt power supply before attempting to repair any electrical components of the power converter unit.

Classic Travel Trailers

1959 Serro Scotty Sportsman
1959 Serro Scotty Sportsman | Source
1954 Airstream Globetrotter
1954 Airstream Globetrotter | Source

Types of Converter Problems

In most cases, a malfunctioning converter will just cease to function with the result being the total loss of power to any 12-volt DC fixtures or controls. In other cases, the converter will produce power, but not enough to run the 12-volt DC electrical system.

But until the onboard 12-volt batteries are exhausted of their charge, the problems will not become apparent. The power converter is supposed to maintain a constant charge on these batteries, supplying variable voltage depending on the amount being drawn from the 12-volt DC system.

Remember that the onboard batteries must be in good shape and able to hold a full charge. One bad battery will draw power from the other good batteries and will eventually cause them to fail also.

To check the batteries, it is necessary to fully charge them and then disconnect them from the others to check their recharging abilities. Check them with a multimeter, after they sit awhile, to determine if one or more is losing voltage.

Troubleshooting the RV Power Converter

The first step in determining the problem is to start from the beginning—that is, the point where the 110-volt AC supply enters the RV power converter.

  • With the RV power supply connected, check the voltage at the point it enters the converter. It should be between 108 to 130 volts. Anything in this range is okay!
  • The next order of business is to check the voltage where it connects to the 12 volt DC breaker box. It should be 11-13 volts to operate satisfactorily. Anything less indicates a bad power converter.

Once we know the problem is a malfunctioning RV power converter, we can check the inner components of the unit.

1. Power Converter Fan

RV power converters use a small fan to keep the electrical components cool while the unit is charging. It should be possible to hear the cooling fan running intermittently while the converter is in use (the fan may operate only when the temperature reaches a certain point).

This fan normally uses the 110-volt AC line voltage to operate. If the voltage to the fan is in the correct range, the fan itself is probably malfunctioning. Replacing this fan is normally an easy project, but finding the right fan might be a problem. Note the make, part numbers, voltage, and any other information on the RV power converter fan motor, for use in obtaining a replacement online.

In some cases, a different make and model may be substituted as long as the voltage and amperage are similar and the motor fits in the space. If the voltage is not getting to the cooling fan from the thermostat, a replacement thermostat is needed. These can be found online as well.

A thermal sensor is used to switch the cooling fan on and off, depending on the operating temperature of the converter components. Make sure the current is getting past this sensor and to the cooling fan before buying a new fan.

If the fan itself, as opposed to the sensor, is not malfunctioning, you should be able to jump the sensor and cause the fan to operate. If this is the case, replace the sensor with one of equal temperature rating.

2. Resistors and Circuit Board

Some power converters rely on a resistor to control the voltage to the onboard batteries and the 12-volt DC system. In some models, the resistor is riveted to the converter box. When checked with the multimeter, the resistor should read from 3 to 13 volts, depending on the present charge of the battery, and which onboard 12-volt lights, fans, and other accessories are being used. If your batteries are not being fully charged, the resistor is often the culprit.

It may be necessary to disassemble the converter box to access this resistor. Be careful if the circuit board requires removal, or you may damage it. Drill out the rivet and replace with the correct replacement resistor.

If the exact replacement part is difficult to locate, you may find a satisfactory replacement at an auto supply store because this type of resistor is used in many automotive applications. As long as the values are the same, almost any 12-volt DC resistor should work. Once this resistor is replaced, the onboard batteries should stay charged with the proper amount of voltage.

3. Replacement

Sometimes it’s just better to bite the bullet and buy a new converter, especially if you aren’t the DIY type of person or just don’t have the time to chase down parts. But actually, it isn’t all that costly to install a new power converter. Installation is very easy too.

Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power converters are fan-cooled and deliver clean, dependable 12-volt DC power to the lights and other appliances in your motorhome or camping trailer. Choose from 45-, 60-, and 80-amp models to fit your particular RV power requirements.

If you’re thinking of replacing the 12-volt DC breaker panel, or updating an older motorhome or travel trailer, the Parallax 7345 Power Center combines the power converter with a reliable breaker system for dependable, clean 12-volt DC power to supply your RV. (For more on breaker systems in RVs, see this article). Parallax also provides 45- and 55- amp converters and breaker panels separately.

A good 12-volt converter system can make or break a camping trip. Learning to repair and understand how the system works will eventually pay off on one of these occasions. Good luck!

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    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      6 hours ago from Southern Georgia

      Peter, connect a good battery charger--not a trickle type--and if everything works normally, then the power converter may be bad. You may also clean the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper as this can also cause this problem.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Peter 

      7 hours ago

      My rv outlets work perfectly good also my microwave and fridge..... The problem is the a/c and lights wount turn on checked breakers and bought new fuses.... still no lights or ac

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Don, check the voltage at the batteries to see if the power converter is working. You should get at least 13 volts dc if it is. You can also connect a good charger to the batteries and if everything works normally, then converter may be bad.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Don 

      3 days ago

      last night my ac, fridge and micro wave went out. all of my outlets seem to be working. I have no lighting operable.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      7 days ago from Southern Georgia

      RJack, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. A corroded connection here will cause all sorts of problems with the 12 volt system.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Bill 

      7 days ago

      My RV power will not switch over when generator is being used. No powers to outlets. What do I need to check?

    • profile image

      RJackBR549 

      7 days ago

      I have replaced the converter, and the battery. But it is still not working. No powder this morning??

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, check the caps!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      11 days ago

      Turns out that my batteries were the issue. Got two new batteries and generator fired right up. Now I need to get a better converter that charges better when driving and running the generator. Probably get a few solar panels as well.

      Tried my AC after firing the generator but it wouldn't come on so that's my next problem.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      11 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Megan, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the trailer. This connection is prone to causing your problem. Make sure this connection is clean.

      Also, you may have a fuse/breaker on the positive battery cable leading to the 12 volt power panel. Not all 12 volt systems have this fuse/breaker.

      Randy

    • profile image

      meganwarnick 

      11 days ago

      Hi Randy!

      I have a 2014 Lakota horse trailer with living quarters. Everything functions perfectly when hooked to normal power or a generator. Trying to run it on just batteries, nothing works. We just replaced the batteries because we thought the batteries weren't charging. That did not fix the problem. We then thought the power switch had gone bad because it was a little worn. That still did not fix the problem. Breakers and fuses appear to be good. Does this sound like my inverter is bad? How can I test this?

      Thank you!

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      11 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, sounds like the converter is bad.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      12 days ago

      I think the batteries are not charged enough and that is preventing the generator from starting. I'm going to try and charge them longer.

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      12 days ago

      Hi Randy, correct.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      12 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, is the generator not starting even when the batteries are fully charged?

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      12 days ago

      Hi Randy, I did not have a charger hooked up, I pulled the batteries and had them charge. Even if the Converter is bad which appears to be the issue because of the low power warning, what would that have to do with the generator not starting?

      I appreciate your input.

      Aaron

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      13 days ago

      I took the batteries out and took them to Autozone where they speed charged over 3.5 hours. I installed them back and then tried the generator and that's the last post.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      13 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, when you had the charger connected--hopefully not a trickle charger--did you try the generator? If you have at least a 30 amp charger, it will tell you if the converter is working properly or not.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      13 days ago

      Batteries charged to 11.7 probably damaged them I would imagine from going to zero.

      Generator tries to turn over but acts like it's not getting enough power clicks, tries to start, clicks, etc.

      Started main engine to help but didn't work. Now my low power COT warning light is back beeping and the check X on the fridge is back on after that attempt. Argg

      Checked the battery monitor and dropped to 11v.

      Ideas?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      13 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, if you've already cleaned the battery ground cable frame connection, you should be good to go. That is, if the converter is working properly.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      2 weeks ago

      I pulled the batteries and took them to Autozone to test and they were dead. 5.9 capacity and 0%. So there's there's the problem. I pick them up in 3 hours and I will pop them back in and see how it goes.

      Anything to consider when hooking them back up?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, if the ground is bad your batteries won't charge no matter what powers the 110 volt system. Check the voltage at the batteries to see if the converter is working properly. If not, try a good battery charger to see if the converter is bad.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      2 weeks ago

      But that is with the generator working correct? The house bank should be charging with the truck engine correct? So I should start her up and use an ohm meter to test what connections?

      Sorry for all the questions.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, if the converter is working properly, you should be getting at least 13 volts at the batteries.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      2 weeks ago

      Thanks Randy, I'll do that tomorrow, I guess I just follow the negative line? I disconnected a battery to check the fluids and forgot to turn off the house power then hooked it back up and I just realized that I hadn't tried the generator since doing that. Coincidence? I have a dual 6V bank and meter shows 9v currently.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Aaron, check the battery negative ground cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. Make sure the cable end and the steel frame where it connects is clean.

      If this doesn't help, try connecting a good battery charger to the batteries. If this helps, a new converter may be needed.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Aaron 

      2 weeks ago

      I'm totally green here and Murphys law has struck just before my camping trip. My generator won't do anything, inside switch nothing, outside switch nothing, but I do hear a small click when pushing the outside starter button. It sounds like it is coming from the stepping motor attached near the carb. The house lights are dumped or appear to be half power, the red X on the fridge is lit and my wired cot sensor was beeping when I came in. I tested the cot reset and it works fine and is no longer beeping.

      Ideas?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Ray, it has to be a short somewhere in the system, but without checking it myself, I haven't a clue.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Ray Hacker 

      2 weeks ago

      Randy,

      Wired up a new 30 AMP 120volt from my Meter box. I did not check the voltage before I plugged it in. The old converter that smoked had the same three Capacitors go out. My buddy had plugged it into His Gentac Generator at Deer camp when the first box went out. Do you think it might be a short to ground on the D/C side? The Battery is completely toast will not hold a charge at all it was hooked up when this happened as well. Going to spend the weekend chasing wires and troubleshooting. as well as trying to find new capacitors to put in.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Colin, don't know for sure but you have a wire connecting to the battery, a wire connecting to the converter breaker, a wire connecting to the 12 volt power panel, and another leading to the battery. You also have at least one ground wire and perhaps two.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Colin Tettersell 

      2 weeks ago

      Thanks for help found partial problem was getting feed back through battery isolator,but can you tell me I have. A red, 2whites ,and a blue wire coming out of convertor where do they go

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Jonathon, a 45 amp converter may well work depending on how much amperage you really need to power everything on the 12 volt system. I usually recommend using the same amperage or better when replacing a converter.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Jonathan R 

      3 weeks ago

      our trailer's battery converter is 55 amps does that mean that we have to use a 45 amp converter

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Lisa, you won't know if the converter is bad unless you can get power to the plug. Check the converter breaker in the 110 volt power panel and see if it's getting power as well.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Lisa C 

      3 weeks ago

      Hey Randy-

      My husband has our WF 8930/50 converter taken out of the basement of our 2013 fifth wheel. There is a plug that goes into the fuse panel and he says he is not getting any power to the plug when he checks it (female side). We thought the converter was bad, is it just the plug do you think?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Colin, this sounds like a bad battery ground. Clean the negative battery cable end where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. Clean the spot on the frame as well.

      You might also check for an inline breaker on the positive battery cable leading back to the 12 volt power panel or converter. Not all campers have this fuse/breaker but it's usually located near the battery box rather than the power panel area if you have one.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Colin 

      3 weeks ago

      Have a system monitor 30 amp convert or with charger when plug in to 110v 12 v lights all go out unplug come back on any ideas

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Ray, I have no clue what caused the converter to go bad. Are you sure you aren't connected to a high-voltage--or higher than required--connection? And no, if you can't find the schematic online, I can't help you. Sorry!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Ray Hacker 

      3 weeks ago

      I just replaced the entire converter box on my 2004 cub 160 due to the DC side going out. As soon as i powered it up all three capacitors poped and smoked out. So my brand new converter is junk again ive powered up the DC side from the battery and everything is working but the refrigerator which was powered off during inital power up. What would cause those capacitors to blow like that. Do you know where i can get a wiring schematic for this RV?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Dyann, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame. If this connection isn't clean, it may cause the converter to run more than it needs to.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Dyann Prouty 

      3 weeks ago

      I have the WFCO WF-8955PEC converter. This morning the cooling fan would not shut off, the fan was running continuously. Everything seemed to be functioning. Any suggestions?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Mike, this sounds like a bad battery ground. Check the battery negative wire where it attaches to steel frame of the camper. Even though it looks good it may not be making a proper ground.

      Also, check for an in-line breaker of relay on the positive battery cable leading back to the converter or 12 volt power panel. Not all campers have this breaker though.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Mike Scott 

      3 weeks ago

      I have a 2002 Lakota Fifth wheel. Unless powered to generator or land line power; lights, refrigerator nothing powers on but the slide outs and front jack do. They are the only thing that works unless powered by generator or land power.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Andrew, have you checked the voltage in the outlet the camper is connected to? And where the pigtail connects to the 110 volt power panel?

      Randy

    • profile image

      Andrew 

      4 weeks ago

      Hello, I have a problem all my 110v system is not running. Im plugged into my house outlet, all the breakers are on the on postion but im getting nothing. A few days ago while i was workinh on the inside i had the power cord hooked up the an extension cord and ran the AC and after about half hour it blew the breaker. After that i have not got any outlets/microwave/AC ETC.. to work and like i said the breakers are all on please help

    • profile image

      Lavenda 

      4 weeks ago

      Thank you Randy and God bless you for the help

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      4 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Lavenda, your AC probably just needs cleaning since you already have the cleaner. You cannot add Freon yourself unless you have the necessary tools and knowledge. If you don't know what your doing. it could be dangerous.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Lavenda Nettles 

      4 weeks ago

      I have a 2008 fema camper trailer. I air conditioner is on top it work and blows cold air as long as you keep it on 70-75 degrees a if you go lower to 65 degree's it freezes up. Does that mean it needs freon? And I know it needs to be cleaned , but to hot right now.

      I have a 2008 camper trailer with the air condition on top. It run good and cold as long as you don't go under 70 degrees . Does it need freon? I know it needs to be cleaned but too hot right now. What do I get to put freon in it? I got the cleaner already.

    • profile image

      henry stage 

      4 weeks ago

      Thanks Randy, I'll check the pump out. I'm still a little confused why the pump would work perfectly on 12v and then stop when AC is connected to the converter. The pump only runs on 12v, right? The only difference, as far as I know, would be the source of the 12v (converter or batteries), yes? I'll get in there and check to power to the pump when it's connected, first to 12v, then again after shore power is connected.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Henry, this is probably a bad water pump if everything else on the 12 volt system is working properly. You can check the voltage at the pump to see if it's getting power, and if it is, the water pump is probably bad.

      Randy

    • profile image

      henry stage 

      5 weeks ago

      Hi, I just bought a 1990 toy hauler with a Parallax Power Supply style converter. Everything DC runs fine. When you plug the shore power in all the AC stuff works fine but the water pump for toilet/sink stops working. The previous owner (a friend of mine) says that it was getting intermittently worse but does not know what is causing it. Any ideas? I'm guessing the converter is past its sell by date...

      Kind regards,

    • profile image

      sean little 

      5 weeks ago

      O.K. Randy thank you for your quick response. it's a lesson learned. I will work on finding a replacement converter. It's forcing me to understand RV electrical systems better.

      Thank's again.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Sean, you probably burned out the circuit for the 3 fuses. Unless you can have an electronics repairman repair this circuit, then yes, you may need a replacement converter.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Sean Little 

      5 weeks ago

      Hello Randy,

      I appreciated your article about repairing or replacing RV power converters. My TV antenna power booster electrical circuit stopped working. It's because we attempted to add a 110 receptacle to this electrical wire (dumb move for sure). Before we attempted it we did not know that the wire was a 12volt dedicated circuit specifically for the T.V. booster only. So, now on the power converter(Magnetek) series 3200 model 3220, the three 15amp fuses dedicated for the T.V. booster do not light up when I use an electrical tester. The other remaining 6 circuits on this converter seem to be fine. Can the three circuits that don't seem to have any power to them on this converter be repaired or do I have to replace the whole converter due to our error? I did check the three fuses that were not lighting up to see if they were blown but they were not. I replaced them with new ones anyhow. Still no power on these three fuses. What's your suggestion? If these three circuits in this converter cannot be repaired should I replace the converter with the same model? I have a 1996 19' ft Scamp.

      Thank you in advance for your advice.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Robert, even if it's still connected to the frame, it may not be making a good ground if it's corroded at all. Often a good cleaning will help.

      Randy

      Randy

    • Robert Derue profile image

      Robert Derue 

      5 weeks ago

      Thanks Randy, it is definitely still bolted to the frame. I do not see any loose connections.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Robert, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. A bad ground here will cause all sorts of problems. Hope this helps solve the problem.

      Randy

    • Robert Derue profile image

      Robert Derue 

      5 weeks ago

      Hi, i have an old 1983 Terry Taurus 21' camper and having an issue with the power converter. Before I left for the weekend, the lights and pump worked perfectly on just the battery (brand new battery). When i packed up to leave the campsite on the Sunday, i noticed nothing worked after I unplugged the 110v. The battery is still fully charged, all breakers are 'ON'. I do not see any other fuse panel, only a converter / resistor box under the bottom bunk. Is there any simple way to fix this?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Jill, if you're connected to the towing vehicle, do you have lights? If so, you can connect a battery to the connection on the camper.

      If not, you may be able to tap into the wiring where it connects to the 12 volt fuse/breaker assembly.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Jill Frey 

      5 weeks ago

      Hi again Randy. I am responding to my original response that you sent me about the palomino pinto camper that i recently purchased with no battery.....i guess what i should have asked is if you know if there is a way to hook up a battery to either the converter or camper for such as "off-grid camping? Thank you in advance!!

    • William Nichols profile image

      William Nichols 

      5 weeks ago

      Thanks Randy Ill try that!

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      William, start at the gen and work towards the power panel checking the power as you go.

      Randy

    • William Nichols profile image

      William Nichols 

      5 weeks ago

      I don't think so.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      William, is there power getting to the breaker panel when the gen is running?

      Randy

    • William Nichols profile image

      William Nichols 

      5 weeks ago

      Yep,shore line is fine.Don't have a gen/shoe switch.not tripping any breakers unless they self-resetting.Its an older 93 model class c. Travelmaster.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      William, if you have Gen/shore switch I'd check that first. Are you getting power to the main 110 breaker panel?

      Randy

    • William Nichols profile image

      William Nichols 

      5 weeks ago

      Sorry,I should have mentioned it was connected to line voltage when this happened.also when it went off the DC components still worked (lights). Started the generator and the ac- tv etc, still didn't work.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      William, are you speaking of the 12 volt lights and system, or the 110 volt system. You can try connecting a good battery charger up to see if the converter is bad or not.

      Randy

    • William Nichols profile image

      William Nichols 

      5 weeks ago

      Hey Randy, camping this weekend my power would intermittently go off and on.maybe for 30 sec sometimes 5 mins. then come on and not go off for an hour or so.Converter fan maybe?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Angie, since the converter is connected to the main power source, a bad ground--even on the battery--could affect the 110 power source.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Angie Neumann 

      5 weeks ago

      I have a 2012 Gulfstream Conquest 408 TBS last night my power stopped. Nothing works in my camper.I am plugged in at the campground and I checked the breakers. The power source from the campground works. The maintenance guy checked it. I have checked my breakers and nothing is wrong. The maintenance guy checked the breakers in my camper and said that they have power. My battery has a corroded cable. Would the battery be an issue if my camper is getting power from an electrical source? Or could it be a bad breaker?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      5 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Jill, some campers do not require a battery as the power converter furnishes the 12 volt dc supply.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Jill Frey 

      5 weeks ago

      I recently purchased a 2003 Palomino pinto sg. My question is, how do i hook a battery up to the camper? It appears to not have one..is it supposed to?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Mike, more than likely the converter is toast after receiving twice the required voltage. The same goes for the appliances.

      Try connecting up a good battery charger to see if the converter is indeed bad. If the 12 volt lights and other items--HW heater and AC thermostats--work with the charger, then a new converter may be in your future. Good Luck!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Mike Medlin 

      6 weeks ago

      I accidentally ran a 230 volt circuit to plug my rv power cord and after changing to to 115 volt my converter will not come on nor any appliances will work.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Ryan, yes if the charger makes everything work normally the converter is probably at fault.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      6 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Brandon, check the main neutral(ground) in the power panel and also the two grounds on the pigtail itself.

      Randy

    • profile image

      RyanDaily 

      6 weeks ago

      Hi Randy,

      I have a 2017 36ft Puma 31rlqs. I went out of town for a few days and left the main AC set to 85 and left the AC in the bedroom off. But I did leave an oscillating fan on low in the living room.

      When I got home yesterday I had no power. The main AC would not turn on and the lights would not turn on.

      I called an RV mobile tech and he said to put a charger on the battery, and that then if I had power, the problem was likely my converter? would you agree?

      Thanks for your help,

      Ryan

    • profile image

      Brandon Hartzler 

      6 weeks ago

      Hi Randy, our RV is hooked up to 110 30 amp, the cable has power coming to the camper, everything in the RV's power box has juice, but nothing on the entire RV is working. I've tested the power at the circuit breakers and fuses and from what I can see they all have juice, what could be shutting the entire system down?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Bevenson, have you checked the shore/ gen switch yet? Often this is a problem in such cases.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Allen, either the reset is bad or there's a dead short in the system causing to no reset.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Allen 

      7 weeks ago

      front and back flood lights, docking lights, front closet lights all stopped working. put in new 15 amp fuses no change. There are 2 tiny reset buttons on the side of a copper bar beside the bolt that the battery cable is attached. The one tiny button resets the slide outs, the other one won't reset. Why not?

    • profile image

      Bevenson 

      7 weeks ago

      Our camper was plugged into shore power daughter turned on air conditioner and it tripped hous GFSI and breaker and I think the breaker in the camper labeled ac II. Now the generator or the shore power does not charge the batteries. Any suggestions on how to fix?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Marren, GFICs are notorious for going bad and sometimes affect several outlets in the circuit.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Marren Gilchrist 

      7 weeks ago

      Got the converter working from last week when I asked about where to find it. Loose wire to the breaker, easy fix. Now today, my GFCI outlets are down. I flipped breaker at main source, as well as the one in camper breaker box. Is there a fuse I should check now? Perhaps I have one bad outlet affecting them all?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      7 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Mark, first clean the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. A bad connection here will cause all sorts of weird problems. Also, check on the positive battery cable for a fuse/relay box. Not all campers have this ut yours may.

      Finally, try connecting a good battery charger up with the converter breaker off. This will tell you if the converter is working properly or not if everything works normally. Hope this helps! :)

      Randy

    • profile image

      Mark Rolston 

      7 weeks ago

      Randy, We have a 32' Kingsport by Gulfstream. All electrical on camper worked fine last season. After I got it out of storage this season, the two slides will not go out. The air conditioner, microwave, and lights do not work either when plugged into our home outlet. I charged the battery and got the slides out but now battery is dead again. There is a red indicator light on one of the fuses on the converter like the fuse is blown, but the fuse is fine, not blown. Any thoughts?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Cameron, try turning the converter breaker off and hooking up a good battery charger to see if this makes a difference

      Randy

    • profile image

      Cameron 

      8 weeks ago

      Thanks Randy. I am stumped. Other than a high pitched noise and the slider not working when the converter breaker is on, everything appears to work fine. When turned on, the convertor appears to be producing approx. 12.7 volts. All 12 volt fuses read 12+ volts across each side, it just doesn't allow the slider to work. Once the breaker is off, then the slider works just fine. Weird hey?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      8 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Cameron, try connecting a good battery charger up with the converter breaker off and if everything works okay, then yes, the converter may be at fault.

      Randy

    • profile image

      cameron 

      8 weeks ago

      Everything in our trailer works fine (12 volt and 110 volt systems)except our slide out does not work when plugged into shore power, and I noticed a very faint, but high pitched noise. I determined it is coming from the converter. When I turn off the converter 110 volt breaker the squeal goes away, and the slider then works. It appears everything works with this breaker off.

      Does this mean I have a faulty power convertor?

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Annette, check the negative battery cable where it attaches to the steel frame of the camper. A rusty of corroded connection can cause this problem.

      Does the battery furnish power to the lights when not connected to shore power? The converter doesn't work when not plugged into a110 volt source, so the converter may not be the problem.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Annette Crisler 

      2 months ago

      Randy we have a weird problem, we had a battery run low and could not put the slide in. We tried to put the slider in with electric and it wouldn't work until we charged the battery. Now, we bought a new battery and the only thing that works on the 12 volt is the slide. No lights no nothing. If we use 110 everything works. However we only camp and use 12 volt due to love being way out in the woods. Another thing that happens is when we have it plugged in to 110 and push the buttons for grey water and battery life and etc, everything lights up like it should. Then we unplug the 110 and go back to 12 volt we only get a slow flash of a few of the red lights on that grey water and battery life. We have checked the fuses and put in a new battery. What else is going on to where we have partial use of 12 volt to where only the slide works? We have a 2010 Catalina Coachmen travel trailer. We are not sure if it could be the converter, even tho it is 12 volt that we are using? Any ideas?? Thanks!

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Brian, you may need to change the GFIC breaker as they're notorious for going bad. Let me know if this works if you don't mind.

      Randy

    • profile image

      bryan decot 

      2 months ago

      no on the small extension cord, When I'm at a camp ground and plug in with the 30amp camper cord it works fine, But whenever I plug into a outlet that has a GFIC it trips. Thanks

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Bryan, a GFIC is a very sensitive thing and the slightest lack of ground can trip it. I assume you're not using a small extension cord at home? But there could be a bad ground causing this as well.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Bryan Decot 

      2 months ago

      I have a travel trailer that when I plug in at home it trips my gfi in the house, When I plug it in a outlet that's not gfi grounded it works fine. I turn off all my breakers in my camper and when I plug it in it stills trips the house gfi. is something wrong with my cord coming from the camper? Thanks for help.

    • profile image

      Phil 

      2 months ago

      Thank you for your help I know how hard it is I can not find anything online about the problem. I did test the ouyput voltage and found some a/c current on the 12v positive line. I can not think of anything else I may just replace battery, 12v breakers, the converter, and all the wiring for my 7 pin plug.

    • Randy Godwin profile imageAUTHOR

      Randy Godwin 

      2 months ago from Southern Georgia

      Gee Phil, wish I could check it out personally. Trying to fix things from long distance is tough sometimes. Anything else you can tell me?

      Randy

    • profile image

      Phil 

      2 months ago

      Hi I checked the ground it looks secure an read .3 ohms between battery negative and a point on the frame. I Also checked for a short on the positive side of the circuit

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