Troubleshooting and Maintaining Your RV’s Air Conditioner

Updated on December 14, 2017
Randy Godwin profile image

Randy is a lifelong lover of the outdoors and especially camping. This article is intended to help the RVer save money and time on repairs.

A new Coleman 13,500 BTU A/C unit ready to install.
A new Coleman 13,500 BTU A/C unit ready to install. | Source

The rooftop air conditioners used on motorhomes are made to give many years of dependable cooling efficiency, especially if you maintain them.

This article has two parts: first, how to troubleshoot your AC and decide which parts to replace or service; and second, how to maintain your AC.

These repair and maintenance tips are very simple to follow, even for those without much hands-on experience.

Part 1: Troubleshooting

Some Background: How Your AC Works

If you are unfamiliar with how a motorhome air conditioning system works, this companion article will help you understand which parts of the motorhome rooftop air conditioner unit to check, service, and repair.

Briefly, your air conditioner, which may be combined with a heating system, includes a compressor—to circulate a cooling fluid like Freon through the coils and fins of the condenser—and a fan, to blow cooled air through the RV. The fan and compressor are turned on and off by a thermostat—a switch attached to a thermometer—and kick-started by one or more capacitors. The thermostat and other controls are run by the vehicle's 12-volt electrical system.

Where to Start Investigating

Many problems your air conditioner might have—sluggish behavior, turning off prematurely--can be resolved by checking out the electrical system in order, going first through the possibilities that are easiest to resolve. These easier choices often solve the problem. If they don't, you can investigate further so you can decide if you need to replace the big items like the fan and the compressor or get a whole new AC unit.

First, we'll address the common electrical issues.

A Precaution

Before attempting any maintenance or repairs on the rooftop AC unit, be sure to switch off the electrical supply to the unit, either by tripping the breaker or by unplugging the motorhome from the electrical receptacle.

RV AC Issues You Can Troubleshoot Yourself

  • If your AC does nothing and makes no noise, make sure your unit and its controls are getting power.
  • If your AC fan or compressor is slow to start, doesn't blow any air, blows weakly, blows only warm air, stops after a while, dims your lights, or trips your breaker, you should first check your capacitors and replace them if needed. 

  • If there's no air blowing, check the fan capacitor; if there's no cooling, check the compressor capacitor.
  • If the capacitor is okay, you should look at whether the thermostat is getting power by checking whether the 12-volt appliaces work.
  • You can check the function of the thermostat if it's wall-mounted. If the unit only works when thermostat wires are touching, the thermostat is bad. The thermostat is easy to replace.

  • If the capacitor and thermostat are okay, the control board may be bad.
  • If the control board is okay, you may have to replace the fan motor or the compressor.

  • If the fan only works at certain speeds, the fan motor may be bad.
  • You can have the fan motor rebuilt (if it's not the sleeved-bearing type). Or you can replace the fan motor yourself if the unit is in good shape otherwise.
  • If the compressor is bad, it should probably be replaced, not fixed.
  • If your system drips or overheats, the coils may need cleaning.
  • If the roof AC leaks, the bolts may be loose or the gasket may be leaking.
  • If the system is very cold or ice builds up, it may be low on Freon.
  • If the unit is noisy, something out of place may be interfering with its motors; you can check by removing the shroud.

The First Step: Is There Power?

If your unit does not react at all—does not go on and does not make noise—you will want to make sure it is getting power. Look in the 12-volt panel and check that the fuse has not blown or the breaker has not tripped. The 12-volt power system runs the controls to the AC including the thermostat.

Running the AC unit itself draws a lot of higher-voltage power, maybe too much for a 15-amp power pole, and if there are two modern rooftop units they may draw too much for the 30-amp power supply provided at many campgrounds. If the unit draws more than the system can provide, the breaker or fuse will shut off. Fortunately, many campgrounds and RV parks now provide 50-amp service for modern multi-unit AC systems.

The thermostat is run by 12-volt power, like your motor home's lights and vent fans. If these accessories aren't working either, there is something wrong with the 12-volt power. A breaker may be bad or there may be a loose connection in the breaker box. Occasionally the power converter that converts your higher-voltage power to 12-volt power is bad.

Next: Consider the Capacitors

If the fan or the compressor fail to start, it is possible the starting capacitor is malfunctioning. A bad capacitor can cause a variety of symptoms: the AC unit merely hums and "tries" to start, it runs a few minutes then trips a breaker, the fan won't start without a push, or it blows only hot air because the compressor can't start.

The capacitor stores electricity to give both the fan motor and the compressor an extra boost whenever the RV AC unit starts. It is not unusual for the capacitor to go bad, especially if the RV sits unused for a while, and not be able to provide that little push that gets the motors going. On occasion a bad capacitor will explode with a puff of smoke without damaging the rest of the unit.

There may be one capacitor for both compressor and fan, two capacitors (one for each part), or even three or more all together. A capacitor is often shaped like a small battery, flask, or button.

If you have a multimeter in your tool kit, you can use it to test the capacitor. A good capacitor should show a random value on the multimeter that slowly decreases the longer you keep the probes in place.

A bad capacitor is easy to replace. Check the required voltage and model numbers on the old capacitor when ordering a new one.

When replacing it, make sure the power is off. Observe which wires go into it where, and make a note so you can install the new one exactly the same way. Don't touch its terminals with your bare hands. Before you throw the old capacitor away, drain out its electrical charge by connecting its terminals with a screwdriver (make sure the screwdriver handle you are holding is insulated).

Very often, your AC unit will start and run fine after you replace a capacitor.

A capacitor.  Often a cylindrical container, but yours may differ.
A capacitor. Often a cylindrical container, but yours may differ. | Source

Next: Check the Thermostat and Switches

A bad thermostat is another possibility. If you have a wall-mounted thermostat, you can check it by checking its voltage with your multimeter. If the unit only goes on when you touch the thermostat wires to each other, the thermostat is definitely bad.

If the thermostat and capacitors are all okay but the AC still doesn't work, you may have a bad control board.

Thermostats and switches may be purchased online by finding the correct model and serial numbers before ordering the new parts. These items are easy to replace in most cases. As always, make note of and remember the wiring connections when replacing these electrical components.

Is Your Fan or Your Compressor Bad?

If after you check these electrical items your AC still doesn't blow out air, or it blows only at certain speeds, your fan motor may be bad. If your AC blows but only hot air comes out, your compressor may be bad. Sometimes—not necessarily—a fan or compressor smokes or leaks oil when it goes bad.

A compressor that is working should turn on audibly and feel warm to the touch. You can test a compressor with a clamp-on ammeter, if you can rent or borrow one. Check how many amps the compressor is drawing. If it draws much more current than the amp rating written on the unit or on a nearby plate, the compressor is toast.

You May Be Able to Rebuild or Replace Your Fan Motor

Oiling your fan motor, as shown in Part 2 of this article below, will help it run more easily. If your AC fan motor is slow to start even after oiling, or needs a nudge to get it going, or only runs at certain speeds, or doesn't run at all, it will need to be rebuilt or replaced.

Fan motors come in two types: with exposed bearings which may be lubricated easily or with sleeved bearings (see the last photo in the article). The first type of fan motor may be rebuilt fairly cheaply and will last for many more years. But not so a sleeved-bearing AC fan motor.

Unlike fan motors with bearings, a fan motor with sleeves cannot be rebuilt economically, and must be replaced with a new one if it goes bad.

If your AC unit seems to be in pretty good shape otherwise, you can order a new AC fan motor to fit your particular unit. There are many sizes and models to choose from. Check the numbers on your old motor. By looking at pictures and descriptions on Amazon you may be able to identify a universal motor that will fit your unit.

Replacement of the AC fan motor is a simple job requiring only a few tools. If the electrical connection to the motor isnt a simple plug-in, mark down the colors of the wires before removing the old fan motor.

Test the new fan motor, before replacing the AC shroud, to check for proper alignment and fan clearance.

Removing and Replacing the Fan Motor

RV AC fan motor with retaining screws removed from AC chassis.  Your RV AC model may be different.
RV AC fan motor with retaining screws removed from AC chassis. Your RV AC model may be different.
Model and serial numbers on RV AC fan motor
Model and serial numbers on RV AC fan motor

A Bad Compressor Isn't Usually Worth Fixing

Compressor
Compressor

If, after you determine that the switches, capacitor, and relays are not at fault, the RV AC compressor fails to operate correctly and cool your air, it is usually better to just junk the unit and buy a new one.

Unless you have access to a used compressor and have the means to replace it and recharge the system yourself, it will likely be too expensive a repair. Under normal circumstances a compressor will last much longer than its warranty.

It May Be Simpler to Replace the Whole AC

If after investigating these possibilities you decide your old RV AC unit has enough problems to need replacing, please see my article on how to install a new rooftop RV AC unit. Replacing your old unit with a more efficient RV AC unit is a very simple and quick procedure you can do yourself.

Some Miscellaneous AC Problems and What May Cause Them

If your AC does run, but only with problems—overheating, dripping, being way too cold—you can address these problems too.

  • Overheating may be due to a simple failure to clean the coils—something I show you how to do in the second half of this article. When the coils are clean they can disperse excess heat into the air.
  • If water leaks into your unit and seems to come from the AC, investigate to see where it is coming from. The leak may come from the gasket between the unit and the roof; if so, it's easy to address. Tighten the bolts carefully, and if that doesn't work, replace the gasket.
  • Dripping from the unit itself may be caused by water condensing in the wrong place (in the pan under the air conditioner) instead of being evaporated by the fan. Such water buildup may be due to dirty coils, and if so, you can cure it by cleaning the coils.
  • If your unit blows very cold and builds up ice—and especially if it later stops cooling at all—it may be low on Freon. Sometimes you can see a visible oily residue around a Freon leak. You may be able to add Freon to your system yourself with a self-piercing valve.
  • If your motor is noisy, you can investigate the problem by taking the shroud (the cover) off the roof AC unit and seeing if everything is in place. The rubber shock absorbers on the compressor and fan may be interfering with the motion of the unit.

Part 2: Maintenance

Accessing the Condenser and Evaporator Coils to Clean Them

Removing the RV AC shroud retaining bolts
Removing the RV AC shroud retaining bolts

Maintenance gives your AC longer life and better efficiency. Roof air conditioning units on motorhomes are the same as ones used on other types of RV campers such as travel trailers and pop-up campers. These repair and maintenance procedures are identical for all these types of campers.

After a few seasons of use, it isn’t unusual for the AC unit to not cool the motorhome as quickly or as efficiently as it once did. Even if you clean the filters regularly, the evaporator and condenser coils will eventually become coated with dirt and grime, which inhibits airflow and cooling efficiency.

Before attempting any maintenance or repairs on the rooftop AC unit, be sure to switch off the electrical supply to the unit, either by tripping the breaker or by unplugging the motorhome from the electrical receptacle. You are now ready to remove the RV AC shroud (above) by unscrewing the four bolts securing it to the RV AC unit itself.

How To Clean the RV AC Coils

This coil is badly in need of cleaning
This coil is badly in need of cleaning
These coils are badly in need of cleaning too.
These coils are badly in need of cleaning too. | Source

After removing the AC shroud you will be able to see the evaporator and condenser coils on either end of the RV AC unit.

If they appear similar to those in the photos above then they need a thorough cleaning to allow unrestricted airflow through them.

Although regular household cleaners may clean the coils to a certain extent, AC coil cleaners made especially for the purpose, like ZEP Foaming Coil Cleaner, will remove the grime build-up much more efficiently and will not harm the coils themselves.

Follow the instructions carefully for the best results. A good wet/dry Shop Vac will help you clean up afterward and remove any excess cleaner or grime from the RV AC unit.

Use a coil fin comb to straighten any bent fins because they too will keep the airflow from moving through the AC coils efficiently.

These fin combs are very inexpensive and may be used many times in the future on both RV and home AC coil fins.

Air Conditioner Fin Comb
Air Conditioner Fin Comb

Straighten out those bent coil fins and increase the efficiency of your A/C unit.

 

Maintaining the AC Fan Motor

RV AC fan motor with a sleeved bearing.
RV AC fan motor with a sleeved bearing.

While the RV AC shroud is removed, it is a good time to service the fan motor and clean the fan itself. Whether your RV AC unit is made by Coleman, Carrier, Duotherm, or Dometic, it will have one fan motor which turns both the squirrel-cage fan and the heat exhausting fan.

This motor should be oiled at this time.

If your RV AC fan motor has regular bearings, there will be oiling ports at each end of the motor. It may be necessary to remove the metal sheeting over the top of the fan motor, plus a few sheet metal screws, to access the bearing oiling ports.

If no oil ports are evident, then your motor has sleeves instead of bearings. You may still oil the shaft at the point where the sleeves enter the fan motor housing. The oil will seep inside and help the fan motor last much longer.

Covering Your Motorhome AC Unit in the Off-Season

Your motorhome AC unit should give you many seasons of dependable operation if serviced annually. It's good to put a cover over the AC unit during the times when the motorhome is not in use.

These inexpensive RV AC covers protect the unit from moisture, extreme cold or hot temperatures, and debris from storms, birds, and insects. They will more than pay for their cost over time.

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    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 18 hours ago from Southern Georgia

      Charlotte, then the climate control is possibly at fault. I assume the thermostat is getting power but is the signal from the stat getting to the upper unit control board?

      Randy

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      Charlotte 20 hours ago

      Yes, Randy, there is NO power going to the top unit at all

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 21 hours ago from Southern Georgia

      Charlotte, have you actually checked the power to the top unit with a volt meter?

      Randy

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      Charlotte 21 hours ago

      I mean I have power to the control box on the a/c but not to the top unit.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 23 hours ago from Southern Georgia

      Charlotte, do you mean you have power to the AC breaker but not to the unit?

      Randy

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      Charlotte 24 hours ago

      I can not get fire to the top of the unit on my rv a/c. I have fire on the bottom.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Roy, thanks so much for your nice comments. You should have added "old" in there somewhere. :P

      I do my best, Roy! (My name as well.)

      Randy

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      Roy Spears 2 days ago

      Randy, the information on your site and the patient answers you give to people are simply fantastic. I want to thank you for your willingness to share your vast store of knowledge with others. You have a generous soul, friend.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      John, sorry I couldn't help you more, but there may be a restriction in the system even though the unit is new. Hope you get satisfaction from the dealer. :)

      Randy

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      John Crouch 3 days ago

      Right, I was just trying to figure out if this might be normal, but I kinda knew it wasn't, someone told me sounds like the expansion valve is staying open when its hot. (should be the other way round) Anyway, now I got to pull it 100 miles round trip for service, and a 2018 at that.

      Thanks Mr. Godwin

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      John, apparently your AC is not running as efficiently as it could. If the unit is new then I'd call a repairman from where I bought the camper. You don't want to do anything to void the warranty.

      Randy

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      John Crouch 3 days ago

      I have a new 2018 travel trailer, I live in Arkansas its now hitting 95, 97degree days with a humidity of 60% or better. My HVAC cools fine late night into the heat of the day then stops. I can hear the compressor running but not much cool air, and the unit stop sweating. I have always heard "if its not sweating, its not cooling...Thoughts? Comments?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Tina, it won't hurt to give them a good cleaning and it my solve the problem for you. Let me know if this doesn't solve the problem.

      Randy

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      Tina Kendall 3 days ago

      Our air condition is not getting cold it just cool. Could this be because the coils need cleaned?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 3 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Debbie, glad I could help! :)

      Randy

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      Debbie J Garner 3 days ago

      It was the AC starter capacitor... Thank you so much for you help!!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 4 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Jerry, more than likely the control board is the problem, the stat sends the signal to the control board and it runs the correct stat setting.

      Randy

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      jerryswanson38@yahoo.com 4 days ago

      My ac works fine but won't shut off I replaced thermostat does exactly the same thing . It also will run and eventually kits the breaker off so the only way I can use it is turn on breaker run for 10 to 20 minutes until it kicks breaker it's a 13.500 Dometic

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 5 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Diesel, if you're sure the thermostat is still working properly, then the only thing left is the control board not operating properly.

      Randy

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      Diesel379 5 days ago

      Very good article! Thank you!

      I recently replaced the thermostat in my RV. Previously to replacing the thermostat the only thing that worked was the fan. So I replaced thermostat with a new on and bingo ac kicks on. So Fast fwd a month later and it’s doing the same thing it did with old thermostat it will not work in auto and only the fan comes on.

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      Patti Corley 5 days ago

      We have replaced our dometic air conditioner in our camper 3 times ! The camper is a 2012 and a year after we had it we had to replace it and twice since then. The last dometic ac put in was used maybe twice !! We will never again buy dometic ! Useless!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 6 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Bob, yes this could be the problem. Dirty coils can make the compressor overheat as well.

      Randy

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      Bob H. 6 days ago

      My Dometic Duo-Therm a/c comes on and blows cold air but the compressor shuts down after a minute or two. The fan continues to run. Possible capacitor issue?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Ray, you may have a weak compressor capacitor. You can check it with an ohm meter. You should get a random number decreasing in value if the cap is good,

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Gary, probably a switch or fuse.

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      Ray 7 days ago

      My rv Colman ac 1year old used very little when turned on sometimes works great for awhile then only fan other times only fans comes on leve off for a couples of days runs great for awhile then only fan

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      gary wright 7 days ago

      dash blower won't come on motor not bad

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 7 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Hurd, it could be low on Freon as this is a common symptom. Try cleaning the coils first though.

      Randy

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      Hurdfabian @gmail.com 7 days ago

      My a/c unit blows very little,I removed the filter inside the rv and looking up in it it is frozen over. Is it low on freon

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 8 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Curtis. is your unit a ducted model?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 8 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Foy, thanks for coming back and relating the solution to your problem. Glad you are back up and running. I'll keep this in mind in the future. You're always welcome to contact me with any RV problems.

      Randy

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      Curtis 8 days ago

      Air not blowing very hard enough to cool camper.

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      Foy Robinson 8 days ago

      I found the problem. The converter box and the generator control box is all located in a cabinet in the bedroom behind the breaker and fuse panel. When I removed the panel I immediately saw the problem. Mice had built a nest on top of 2 DC wires and had chewed the instillation off both wires about 6 to 8 inches long. With the rough roads coming home the wires had gotten against the metal of the breaker box and was shorting out. After taping the wires everything worked fine. Thanks again for your help.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 9 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Larry, check the thermostat to be sure it's getting 12 volts from the converter or battery.

      Randy

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      Larry 9 days ago

      A/C and heater will not come on

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Tony, probably a control board problem.

      Randy

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      Tony 10 days ago

      across blower will not turn off when the compresser stops I installed a new thermostat cleaned the coils air blows fine but fan will not turn off

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      Foy Robinson 10 days ago

      If it is it's sealed with 4 wires connected to it and they are not loose. I'll look for it tomorrow when I have more time. Thanks for your help. I'll keep you posted.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Foy, it could be in the climate control, but I'm really not sure about that.

      Randy

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      Foy Robinson 10 days ago

      I'm thinking the same thing. Do you have any idea where it is located.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Foy, that may be the problem if both are acting the same. Check it if you can to make sure there's not a loose connection.

      Randy

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      Foy Robinson 10 days ago

      According to the wiring diagram there is only one.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Carl, this may be a bad start/run capacitor. Easy to check and replace and cost around 20+ bucks.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Foy, do you have one circuit board controlling both ACs? Or do you know?

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      Carl 10 days ago

      My blower fan was cracked. I replaced it. But got in in backwards. I operated it like that for a short time. It over heated and the fan and comp stopped working. I turned the blower around and tried to start it. It came on for a few seconds and went back off. Now I get nothing from the fan or comp. I have 12 dc and 120 vac. but no luck. Therm is working but nothing happens on top of my coach. ??? Thanks Carl

    • profile image

      Foy Robinson 10 days ago

      I have checked for a loose wire but found none, even unplugged the wires and replugged them. What ever it is I'm like you it happened on the way home.

    • profile image

      Foy Robinson 10 days ago

      I have checked that and found no loose connections there. I have tried the units using the generator but same thing fans run and compressors show shed on the thermostat.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Foy. I suspect either the climate control or the thermostat has a loose connection somewhere. More than likely it happened on the trip home.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 10 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Chris, this article may help you find the problem with your fridge:

      https://hubpages.com/sports/Airstream-Travel-Trail...

      I also have an article on how to replace an absorption fridge with a 110 volt model if you decide you want to try this.

      http://hub.me/a3990

      Randy

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      Foy Robinson 10 days ago

      I have a 2003 Fleetwood Bounder with 2 roof mounted ac units controlled with a electronic climate control thermostat. Everything worked fine while on vacation last week but when we got home and plunged it up neither ac unit compressors would come on. The fans will work but the thermostats shed light stays on and neither ac unit will attempt to start. There is 123 volts to the camper on a 30 amp breaker just like in the campgrounds. The breakers are ok and no blown fuses. Can you give me some pointers to where to check?

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      Chris Keiper 10 days ago

      I will try it tonight. Also on last question. I still have the 3 way fridge (original) in the camper. It seems to take days just to even start cooling. Should I use propane? The starter doesn't seem to fire up....and the electrical works but seems to take forever to get cold enough to put something in it. What would you recommend I do? And do you have any pages on trouble shooting and maintenance on 3 way fridges?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 11 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Chris, is the camper plugged into a regular outlet? If so, the outlet may not be able to supply enough power for the AC. Try connecting the camper to at least a 30 amp supply and see what happens.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 11 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Scott, I take it you've not run this unit before? If not, this may be a compressor problem.

      Randy

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 11 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Terry, could it be the compressor still running after the fan stops? If so, this is more than likely a thermostat or control board problem. You'll have to look under the shroud to see for sure.

      Randy

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      Chris Keiper 11 days ago

      The breaker inside the camper. Located under the table. Nothing on the AC unit blows or trips. And the camper outlet is the 110 20a outlet. Like the kind you plug a lamp into at home. Hope that makes sense, and before I forget thanks for helping out. I will doing a cleaning this weekend as it probably never has been done...I am the third owner of this pop up. And the model of the AC unit is a Mach 3.

    • profile image

      Scott Steele 11 days ago

      Randy, sorry to bother but hoping you might could help me. I bought a 92 Ford rv with a coleman ac only unit, model 8333d876. The ac would not come on. I have 12 volts coming to thermostat and I bypassed the thermostat and the compressor kicked on and ran. I thought the thermostat was bad so I replaced it, then the compressor would attempt to come on and then throw the breaker. I then replaced the start capacitor. Now it trips the breaker immediately, doesn't even try to come on. So I went back and jumped the new thermostat, same result, immediately throws the breaker. Any advice? I checked my wiring and it's wired up correctly.

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      Terrylee 12 days ago

      Help needed with a 95 Dutchmen fifth wheel AC unit. The unit still runs without assistance to start or shut off, blows cold, but when the unit shuts off via the proper setting that the thermostat set to, I am hearing a very loud humming. After removing the cover and assessing that there's nothing obviously wrong, I then turned the circuit breaker off and allowed the unit to cool off. When I turn the circuit breaker back on, approximately 30 minutes later, the humming continued immediately upon turning the breaker back on. Could this be a condenser?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 12 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Becky, I wish I could check this for you, but unfortunately this isn't possible. You'll have to consult with a repairman I'm afraid. Sorry!

      Randy

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      Becky 12 days ago

      Please help I have a 2002 coachmen Catalina camper. I had to install a new ac while doing this the wires to my furnace were pulled apart now no one can figure out how they go back. I can’t find any information on how to reconnect the wires. I have 2 blue and white striped wires and a white wire coming off the control board. Coming from the ceiling I have a red wire and 2 white wires. The rest of the wires are color coded like green to green and brown to brown so I hope I wired those correctly. I’m desperate as I want to take my little girl camping but have no AC any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Becky

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 12 days ago from Southern Georgia

      Chris, which breaker blows? When you say the "camper outlet," what are you referring to?

      Randy

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      Chris Keiper 12 days ago

      I have a coleman chyenne with a Mach 3 AC unit. It works great when I plug it up to another source. But when plugged into the camper outlet the breaker trips every 20-30 minutes. No fuses blown. Not sure what to do or check

    • Randy Godwin profile image
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      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Kenny, look on Amazon for a compatible replacement. Make sure the values are the same. This should be a relatively easy replacement job. Good luck!

      Randy

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      Kenny Watkins 2 weeks ago

      Randy

      I am thinking now the thermostat is bad. I cut the unit down to 65 today and it ran all day good and cold but when I cut it back up to 75 the compressor cut off and low power light started blinking. This is a 1995 jayco with a cool only thermostat. Any ideas of a good replacement

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Partschck--Might be a capacitor leaking oil. I'd check and/or replace it.

      Randy

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      PARTSCHCK@SBCGLOBAL.NET 2 weeks ago

      My ac smells like an electrical wire is burning and it works but it smells like something is burning?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Sally, yes if the generator was part of the original package. I assume the maker installed a generator to handle everything in the RV. Hope you enjoy your tripand ask for more RV info anytime. I too was a dummy RVer at one time. :)

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      sally 2 weeks ago

      ok we bought a 2016 four winds 2 years ago, we are going across country and living in it for a few years, or longer if we love it, we have only taken the motor home out very little , the air conditioner on the celling, can it be run without plugging it in to rv amps, or can it run on the generator for hours at a time. thanks I think we need a rv for dummy books.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Kenny, check and/or replace the capacitor(s) first. A weak cap can cause this problem.

      Randy

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      Kenny Watkins 2 weeks ago

      Randy.

      My RV A/C unit blows cold when It is first cut on (yesterday over an hour) and then it stops blowing cold air. I cleaned the coils best I could with a vacuum but problem persist. It is not freezing up. The fan is staying on the entire time. I think the compressor is kicking off after awhile. Any ideas?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Have you looked to see if there's been a Freon leak, Peter? There may be an oily spot on the system lines or connections which indicate such. I checked a lady's old rooftop unit yesterday and someone had installed a piercing valve which eventually leaked the freon again.

      Randy

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      Peter 2 weeks ago

      Hi randy yea we checked both and its running fine. Just no cold air

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Peter, can you tell if the compressor is coming on? Have you checked the capacitor{s} yet?

      Randy

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      Peter 2 weeks ago

      Hi randy we were having problems with our old ac unit so we we just bought a used unit online and we have replaced it. it blows a lot of air but still wont blow cold air. We have replaced the thermostat too

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Rob, I've no experience with the heater control valve sticking. Are you sure it's not a capacitor?

      Randy

    • profile image

      Rob 2 weeks ago

      Hi Randy and thanks for sharing your knowledge. We have a 2005 coach with coleman mach 8 13.5 units with heaters where one has stopped blowing air and I too found out you cannot throw these away. I heard one time about a heater control value that could cause the heater system (which we have) to stick on and not allow the cold air side to work but is easy to replace.

      - is this correct? I've been googling manuals / parts, etc but cannot find any reference to this or where / what this value even looks like.

      - possibly you can share any details or a link to docs on this so I can test if mine is stuck??

      Thanks

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Dedra, I started to suggest that you try this, but I wasn't sure this would work. But you seem to have nothing to lose as it is now. If you have access to a vacuum pump I'd pull a vacuum on the system first.

      I'd be pleased to know how it turns out if you try this. Make sure you use the low pressure line.Good luck!

      Randy

      Randy

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      Dedra 2 weeks ago

      One more question, If the company says it cannot be recharged what's stopping me from adding a piercing tap to the coolant lines and trying to recharge it? What would it hurt as long as its filled with 410A?

    • profile image

      Dedra 2 weeks ago

      I welcome any advise as I am now anti Dometic. Horrible customer service and terrible product!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Dedra, I wasn't aware this unit could not be recharged. It does seem disposable if that's the case. I'll try to look into this because I don't want to recommend a unit which cannot be recharged.

      Randy

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      Dedra 2 weeks ago

      We want to try to recharge the system but were told by a RV Repair man and by Dometic (AC Manufacture) that is was a closed system and unable to be charged with 410A freon. I asked Dometic why they would make a disposable AC unit, still waiting on that answer.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 2 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Dedra, do I understand you to say the system could not be recharged? Did an AC tech tell you this?

      Randy

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      Dedra 2 weeks ago

      Our AC is blowing out only hot air. Everything else works as you can hear it kick on to cool and the blower is working as well. I am being told that it's a closed loop system so unable to take charge. AC unit and camper are only 3 years old. Help!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Jorge, more than likely the control board is toast if it was wet for awhile.

      Randy

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      jorge 3 weeks ago

      Hii. I have a problem on my a/c. my control is showing 19 on temp and when I go on cool high does not cool enough. the same day that the problem starts, it was water on the control board.

      thank you!!!!

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Rick, not that I'm aware of. My ancestors in the Godwin line hail from North Carolina, but we're a prolific bunch so, who knows?

      Randy

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      RickWintermute 3 weeks ago

      Godwin is the name of our pastor

      Carl Godwin

      Lincoln Nebraska

      Any relation that you know of?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Pleased to help, Rick! :)

      Randy

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      RickWintermute 3 weeks ago

      Thank you so much for your help

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Rick, yes it would.

      Randy

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      RickWintermute 3 weeks ago

      I have two units in my RV

      I replaced the thermostat a couple years ago when nothing would work

      The front unit works fine

      Wouldn’t that make it more likely the control board?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Rick, this either a thermostat problem or a control board issue. I'd try the thermostat first before replacing the control board.

      Randy

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      RickWintermute 3 weeks ago

      My RV air conditioner runs for a few minute then the fan shuts off. The compressor continues to run then shuts off a few minutes later. After another few minutes everything turns back on and goes through the same cycle over and over.

      If I just run the fan, it will run without shutting off.

      Any help is greatly appreciated.

      It’s hot this weekend.

    • profile image

      Amandakutz 3 weeks ago

      Thank you! I’ll check them out :)

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Amanda, the squirrel cage fan is on the same shaft as the bladed fan, just on the opposite end of the fan motor shaft. The compressor sits on rubber shock absorbers which wear out over the years. I favor the squirrel cage fan or the fan motor mounts as the cause of your problem though. I have been wrong before, of course. :) Good luck!

      Randy

    • profile image

      Amandakutz 3 weeks ago

      No I didn’t, I dont even know what or where that is :(

      Where might I check the rubber shock absorbers?

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Amanda, did you check the squirrel cage fan as well as the bladed fan? I've found mud dauber nests stuck inside the cage. If not, you may have some bad rubber shock absorbers on the compressor.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Amandakutz 3 weeks ago

      I just turned on my 95 jayco pop up 1206 air conditioner and it is shaking the entire camper. It shakes worse the higher the speed. It is blowing cold air. I took the shrew off and all is clear of the blades. It did spit out some dirt at first and I thought possibly mud dobber nest. Any suggestions? We just got to the campsite for the weekend.

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Randall, there are a couple of wires which should easily be detached if they're connected with wire nuts, Be sure to flip the AC breaker before you begin the gasket replacement procedure.

      A new gasket will more than likely solve the problem.

      Randy

    • profile image

      Randall 3 weeks ago

      Randy I took the inside cover off and looked at the gasket in most places its pancaked down to less than 1/8th of an inch. There are some wires that have do be removed and four bolts and then I should be able to get on the roof and pull it out and put a new gasket on. The wires concern me a little on how to take them out and with the gasket pancaked could that be why its traveling to the slide wall and slide light fixture and slow dripping..I bought a gasket and it says tighten bolts to where the gasket is 1/2 inch around the frame...

    • Randy Godwin profile image
      Author

      Randy Godwin 3 weeks ago from Southern Georgia

      Randall, it may be the gasket is bad or it may be the coils are still dirty. Have cleaned the rear coils well? Sometimes the rear coil is hard to get to.

      Either way, the moisture is definitely getting into the fixture so it's either getting there from a bad gasket or from the gutter somehow.

      It's not difficult to replace the gasket and you may have to replace it while trying to see what the deal is. You can find a new gasket on Amazon if you decide to replace it.

      I'd like to know what you find out if you don't mind returning here. Or you can contact me by email at the top of the page marked, Contact Author

      Randy

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