The 12-VDC your camper uses comes from your camper battery(s). If they only show a no-load voltage of 12.5 -VDC the battery could not be fully charged. If the battery voltage is this low then your Converter (Charger0 is not running. When it is running the battery voltage should be between 13.5 and 14.5 VDC even when loaded. I would check the battery for water and then check that the Converter is functioning.
My RV battery, converter, AC control box, thermostat, and wires are all new. I ran a new hot and negative from an empty spot on the fuse board. I’m getting 13.5 plus on my battery, and about 13.5 on the control box. But on the control box, all four ins plus the freeze sensor has 13.5 even when the t-stat is switched off. Also, the furnace isn't working. Do you have any thoughts?
We have a 2017 Jayco pop up trailer. The electric brake system and the brake/signal lights are not working when we connect it to our van. When it is connected to the house, all is fine. My husband thinks it has something to do with the 12-volt system. All fuses and connections seem fine? Thoughts? Unfortunately, we are discovering this as we were pulling out of our driveway for the first camping trip of the year.
I have a new battery, converter, thermostat and wire in my RV. I get 14.2VDC all around, give or take .1V. At the control box where they plug in I get nothing, with or without turning on fan, AC or both. Could the new thermostat be defective? If I unplug the ground from the thermostat, the ground reads 14.2VDC. Everything else works perfectly fine.
The 110V circuits in my RV are not working with either shore or generator power. I’ve reset the breakers and the GFCI. I unplugged it from shore, and with the generator running, I measured 110V across the line and neutral terminals labeled “Primary,” “Aux” and “Load” on the Transfer Relay Delay (TRD). Does 110V on Primary and Aux terminals at the same time indicate a faulty TRD? With 110V on the “Load,” but no power at the receptacles, where does my problem lie?
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