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Most Common Reasons Why a Transmission Slips

Updated on January 08, 2017

We all know what an automatic transmission is, basically—very basically, at least—so I'm not going to bore you with the details about how it converts power from your engine into power at the wheels. But you should know that the process involves plenty of hydraulic fluid as well as gears and clutches.

If you don't know why your car’s transmission is slipping, I just might have the answer, though you may not want to hear what I have to say.

The cause of a slipping transmission will depend on the type of transmission you have in your vehicle. There are three types of transmissions: automatic, standard (or “manual”), and CVT (continuously variable transmission). I will discuss the two most common types, automatic and standard.

Why Is My Automatic Transmission Slipping?

If you have an automatic transmission and it "slips" while you are driving it—that is, the car engine revs without the power going to the wheels—the most common cause (though not the only possible cause) is low transmission fluid. If the slipping is caused by low fluid, it will get worse as the transmission gets hotter.

Why Is My Manual Transmission Slipping?

A standard (“manual”) transmission uses fluid too, but leaks aren’t a common issue; a standard transmission could lose all its fluid and never slip at all, though eventually it would lock up while driving down the road. If you have a standard transmission, and it’s slipping—the engine revs but it doesn’t transmit power to the wheels—the problem is usually in the clutch.

Further down in the article I discuss how to diagnose this problem.

Sounds Like Low Transmission Fluid to Me

If Your Automatic Transmission Is Low on Fluid

The next question is, why? Probably because you have a leak. Maybe you have noticed red transmission fluid in your driveway or your parking spot at work, but it didn’t occur to you that it came from your car. The cause of your leak is probably a failure of one of the seals that keep the oil inside the transmission (though there are other places the transmission might leak). How many seals the transmission has depends on whether you have a front-wheel-drive, four-wheel-drive, or rear-wheel-drive car.

If you do have a seal that is leaking, and you catch it in time before it damages your transmission, there’s a chance it might be relatively cheap to repair. Seals themselves are not expensive parts, but depending on where they are located, it might take a lot of labor to replace them.

Transmission Axle Seal: A Common Site for Leaks

Click thumbnail to view full-size
An axle seal might cost you about $20. It's the labor that kills you. An axle seal that is not leaking fluid.Axle seal inside the transmission, with the axle removed.A typical axle seal leak.This axle seal is just starting to leak.A great view of the axle going into the transmission. You can see the transmission fluid starting to leak down the transmission case.
An axle seal might cost you about $20. It's the labor that kills you.
An axle seal might cost you about $20. It's the labor that kills you. | Source
An axle seal that is not leaking fluid.
An axle seal that is not leaking fluid.
Axle seal inside the transmission, with the axle removed.
Axle seal inside the transmission, with the axle removed.
A typical axle seal leak.
A typical axle seal leak.
This axle seal is just starting to leak.
This axle seal is just starting to leak.
A great view of the axle going into the transmission. You can see the transmission fluid starting to leak down the transmission case.
A great view of the axle going into the transmission. You can see the transmission fluid starting to leak down the transmission case.

If you have the leak checked out by your mechanic, and he tells you it’s just your axle seal, it could just cost you for a couple hours of labor, and you could be back on the road in a few hours if the parts are readily available. Axle seal failures are common, and the dealer will usually have those seals in stock. But if it's your input shaft seal, plan on leaving your car for a day or two, and expect the labor cost to be upwards of eight to ten hours.

Input Shaft Seal: Another Site for Leaks

Leaking input shaft seal.
Leaking input shaft seal.

This photo shows an input shaft seal leak. To replace this seal, the transmission needs to be removed from the car; this job can get costly.

Be sure to check your owner's manual on how to check your transmission fluid.
Be sure to check your owner's manual on how to check your transmission fluid.
Typically you fill the transmission through the dipstick tube, using a small funnel.
Typically you fill the transmission through the dipstick tube, using a small funnel.

Checking and Topping Off Automatic Transmission Fluid to Prevent Slipping

If your transmission is leaking, you will want to fix it. Meanwhile, if you must drive a car with a leaking transmission, you should top off the fluid.

Check your owner’s manual to see exactly how you should check your transmission fluid level. Some manufacturers will want you to check the transmission fluid level when the engine is warmed up and running with the transmission in park, other manufacturers like Honda will have you check it with the engine warmed up but not running. So be sure to read your owner's manual, DON'T GUESS!

If your transmission fluid level is low and not showing on the dipstick, add transmission fluid--the proper transmission fluid. Each car manufacturer uses a specific fluid. If you use the wrong fluid, you could damage your transmission internally, so again, check your owner's manual. Fill it to the top line on the dipstick and then drive it to your mechanic.

Note: Sometimes when an automatic transmission is low on fluid and you top it off, air pockets develop inside the transmission that keep the fluid from getting to all the parts of the mechanism. After adding the fluid, I suggest that while the car is running, you move the shift lever through the different gears on the shifter selector, and then check the fluid again. Running the shifter through the gears redirects the fluid to different parts of the transmission and removes the air pockets. You may have to do this procedure several times, or even drive the car around the block, and then recheck the fluid level.

Note: I do not recommend using additives that are supposed to stop leaks; they can plug up the transmission. Use the automatic transmission fluid your car manufacturer makes.

How to Check Your Transmission Fluid

Other Fluids That Leak From Cars

If you are concerned about other fluids besides automatic transmission fluid that seem to be coming out of your car, here's some useful advice.

Clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch looks like it blew apart. If you ride your clutch it may look like this.
Clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch looks like it blew apart. If you ride your clutch it may look like this.

Common Cause of Manual Transmission Slippage: Worn-Out Clutch

If you think your clutch is starting to slip, you can try a stall test. Put your car in third gear and try starting off like you would normally, as if you were in first gear. If your clutch is working properly, letting the clutch out all the way should stall the car. If, however, the clutch is slipping, the engine RPMs will rise, the car will slowly start rolling, and you will have a smell like burning paper coming from the engine compartment. When a clutch starts slipping you will smell it. It’s like the smell of overheated brakes.

There are many reasons why a clutch would slip, but the most common reason is that the clutch is worn out. A clutch disc can last anywhere from 20,000 to 200,000 miles—it all depends on the way you drive—but like a brake pad, it’s a consumable item, and will be used up eventually, leaving the parts grinding metal-on-metal. If the clutch disc is worn out, you need to replace it, generally also along with the clutch plate and one or two bearings. If you don't replace a worn clutch in time, you might have to replace the flywheel (the big chunk of metal next to it) as well.

Riding your clutch—that is, leaving your foot on the clutch pedal when you aren’t using it—can really eat up a clutch disc fast, especially if you drive in hilly areas. Just being a newbie and learning to use a clutch for the first time can cause a lot of wear and tear. Learning to drive on a standard transmission can end up costing you money if you don't get the hang of it quickly.

Then again, clutches slip for reasons not related to wear and tear or abuse. If your input shaft seal is leaking gear oil onto the clutch disc, this could very well cause a slipping clutch. Another common reason for a slipping clutch is a faulty or damaged pressure plate. The pressure plate is operated by a high-tension spring. If for some reason the pressure is not distributed evenly over the clutch disc, the clutch will start to slip.

Blown Clutch: It's Completely Worn Out

I Appreciate Your Questions!

There are many possible reasons for a slipping transmission and I could not cover all of them above. If you have any questions just leave them in the comment box below. If you find this article useful, do share it on Facebook or Twitter (see buttons at top of page).

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    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 24 hours ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Matt,

      One code is for emissions and the other is for idle control, so you have two separate issues. I recommend having the Idle control issue fixed first because this can cause erratic shifting and long hold times between shifts. The emissions problem most likely will not effect the way the vehicle runs and drives, but P0542 will. Let me know how you make out Matt, thanks.

    • profile image

      Matt Cottrell 5 days ago

      Hello, I have an '01 GMC Sonoma that I've recently been experiencing some odd symptoms. I've noticed a lack of power (sluggish) when driving first thing. After the truck "warms up" this symptom goes away. Also, when reaching 3rd gear I am running in the 3000's and have trouble shifting out and into a higher gear (lower rpm). The truck will correct eventually, but hearing those high rpms is awful. The check engine is on, and the codes (P0542, P0440) suggest the evap system pressure sensor. Could this be the problem, or does this sound more like a tranny issue? I look forward to your response.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Casey,

      When was the lat time you have the fluid changed? I recommend checking the fluid level and condition first and go from there. The fluid should be red or pink, and you check the fluid level with the engine off and the car on level ground.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Cindy,

      It sounds like you're adding transmission fluid, this means you have a leak. I recommend having the leak checked first to see how much it would cost to have it repaired, then have the mechanic drive the vehicle to determine if the transmission is OK or not. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

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      Casey 5 days ago

      I have an '05 Honda CRV. When i speed up and i hit about 3000 rpm, my trans will slip outta gear, causing the rpm to go way up. once i let off the gas, and the rpm's go back down, itll fall back into gear, and drives fine. it seems like 3000 rpm is the threshold for slipping. any suggestions?

    • profile image

      cindy rohwer 9 days ago

      I have a 1996 Dodge Caravan 3.8L engine. My transmission has been slipping a little and I was wondering if you could tell me what could be wrong with it. I have been babying it and keeping transmission fluid in it, but it stops and starts at it's own convience.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 12 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Shabir,

      Is there a check engine light or transmission warning light on when this happens?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 12 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Matt,

      I recommend taking it in to the Toyota dealer and road test it with the shop foreman or a tech. There may be a transmission software update available for your vehicle for this issue. Keep me posted on what you find out, it would be great for other readers who are having the same issues, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 12 days ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks Chad,

      It sounds like you lost pump pressure all together. I believe you'll probably need to replace the complete transmission at this point no matter what component failed. Let me know if you have more questions Chad, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 12 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Coopers,

      I believe the problem is internal, if it were the clutch, pp plate, or T-O bearing it would happen in all gears, because it's only happening in 5TH, I think there is a problem inside the trans. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

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      Shabir Roshan 12 days ago

      hi I have a atomatic Toyota auris 2011 today while I was driving all of a sudden the gear was shift to N and I couldn't do anything I turned off the engine for about a minute and started back it worked. But it happened twice. Can you shed some light on this please. I am worried that it might be my gearbox damaged. Thank you and waiting for your reply. Regards

    • profile image

      Matt 12 days ago

      I have new 2017 cammry (6 spd automatic) and it shifts rough / surges/slips in low gears when cold - feels like clutch slipping - goes away when warmed up - consistently does it in first few gears when shifting cold first time in outdoor temps below 50F.

    • profile image

      Chad 13 days ago

      Hey Eddie, great article!

      I am not sure what's up with my 96 Honda Accord. It slowly built over time and now just revs. The problem I'm having is when I put the car into gear, doesn't matter what one, even reverse... the car just revs, won't go forward or reverse. Could this be the entire tranny or possibly just the torque converter? The fluid level is good, no leaks. I know it's hard to diagnose online, but any suggestions what it could be?

    • profile image

      MissynTerry_Cooper 13 days ago

      1998 single axle dump standard transmission ; started gradually , when in 5 gear it would act as if it had hit neutral , I press clutch and it ran fine; it got worse now it seems to hit neutral after just a mile ,if I press gas it just revs , if I let it slow a little or press the clutch it takes off ?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Roland,

      The first thing I recommend you check is the oil level. It sounds like your oil level is low and Hathor V-TEC solenoid is starving for oil. If the oil level is OK, you may need to find someone who can adjust your valves, you may a tight valve causing this issue. Keep me posted on what you find, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here.

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      Roland 3 weeks ago

      Hi, thanks for the clarity you've provided. Let me begin by stating that I live in Monrovia, Liberia (West Africa), and that mechanics here are certainly not the best in the world. I have a 2005 Honda pilot (167k). When I drive around Monrovia (the capital city) the car drives relatively okay. However, the last two times I drove out of town was a nightmare. After 40 minutes driving between 60-85 kph, the car stalls! There's a heavy rattling sound from the engine. If I try to force it to get off the road, it raises and gives off a blue puff of smoke. If I wait about an hour, the car restarts and behaves like nothing happened. Do you think my transmission is slipping?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Izi,

      If the dealer is a reputable dealership they should offer you some kind of return policy or to fix it at there expense and give you a loaner while you wait for your vehicle. I would rather return the vehicle and look for something else if this happened to me. Keep me posted on what happens, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gaspar,

      That doesn't sound good. If third gears is like neutral, then you probably have blown 3 gear, it wouldn't be the clutch or anything electronic because all gears change manually in the transmission. You will need to disassemble the transmission to diagnose. Sorry about the bad news, Hope this helps.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lee Ann,

      I recommend having the transmission fluid and filter replaced. It sounds like you have debris clogging up the filter or the pick-up o-ring is damaged. I would start by replacing the fluid and filter and see if the problem gets better. Keep me posted on what happens, thanks.

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      Lee Ann Woods 3 weeks ago

      Hello my transmission just started slipping. When it heats up. I added fluid and it still has the symptoms but it's weird when you turn the car off and back on you can start out in drive but after a min or so drive slips and you have to put it in 2nd gear. Btw it's an automatic 2002 Jeep Cherokee learedo

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      Gaspar 3 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie I'm hoping you could help shed some light on what might be the cause of my issue. I have a 1997 Chevy s-10, auto 4x4. My 3rd gear is slipping 1, 2, 4 (I think), and reverse work fine. I do have to use the shifter to start on 1 then go to 2. Once rpms reach 3000 and about 35-40 mph I switch, but I have to skip 3rd and go to drive because then the rpms go up high fast as if in neutral but I loose speed. Once on drive I have to keep rpms at 3000 and speed at about 40 or else it kinda downshifts (I guess) and then I'm at 3rd gear but neutral(or what it feels like), forcing me to put the shifter on 2nd and repeat my little process. If i start on drive (like normal use), 1st and 2nd work and then when its time to shift to 3rd it slips-rpms go up speed goes down. Check engine light is on. I took it to autozone and some codes for some fuel and MAF issuescame up, it says I need a fuel pump, and the other thing is the 4x4 low circuit code p1875. What can be the cause of this?

    • profile image

      Izi 3 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie

      What is your first reaction to this scenario: Pick up a brand new 47k Mitsubishi Triton on Wednesday and by Friday it's back in the shop because not only is it popping out of 5th gear into neutral when it hits between 80 - 90km but it has also slipped into 4H and won't budge back into 2H. I am beyond livid and disappointed. The dealership reckons such things are unheard of but are certainly willing to take full liability. Eddie, do you have any idea what might be wrong and IF there is major repair needed am I in my rights to demand a brand new car? The whole thing has left a sour taste in my mouth. Izi

    • profile image

      Ernat 3 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie

      I actually imported it from Japan. I have had a chat to a Volvo tech and he said that sometimes(rarely) when they clear error codes in the computer another underlying one might pop up. I am waiting to hear back from the people that did the flush otherwise I will have to get a second opinion from the Volvo guy I spoke to.

      Might end up taking the car to him to sort out and hopefully that fixes the issue. If my clutch is still slipping I will return to the people that did the flush..

      Thank you for your response

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jim,

      I recommend letting the shop tell you what they found. It sounds to me like the oil cap was left off (if there was oil all over the top if the engine) Sometimes tow truck drivers don't know what they are talking about (I've seen it a lot) and some are very good with cars. Let see what the shop says and why it happened. Let me know what they say, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kecate,

      I recommend checking to see if you may have pinched the valve cover gasket during installation, if not hopefully you use some RTV in the cam corner of the valve cover gasket. it should be dabbed on every corner where the cam hump is. If all that looks good, it possible your head gasket is leaking in that corner?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mimi,

      As long as you can drive the car safely to the transmission shop, if you don't think it's drivable, have it towed. I think your mechanic is right, It's worth having it checked out. If it's just a solenoid, you could possible get a lot more miles out of her and get your last child through college. Let me know what they find, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ernst,

      The transmission and turbo have nothing to do with each other. I believe this is just a coincidence. Did you buy this car private sale or from a dealership? If it's a dealership, they must have some kind of good faith policy you can drive the car for at least 30 days with no problems? Let me know the warranty, thanks.

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      Ernst 3 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie, I just bought a 2011 Volvo S60 and been driving it for two weeks. from taking off in 1st and going into second the clutch seemed to slip a bit. It has a dual clutch system or something.

      I took the car to be looked at and the guy recomened a service that should fix the issue. He has work on those transmissions a lot.

      Got the car beach yesterday and and it still had a slight slip but he said to just drive it for a bit and it should be better.

      This morning, I left for work and after stopping at a stop sign started driving again and now the engine light came on and the car went into Limp mode or something.

      They came and took the car back to have a look and now the codes come back with Turbo release valve getting stuck.

      Is there any way that the flush could have affected the valve?? I am so mad atm cause it didn't have any error codes before they worked on it. I am still waiting to hear back from them

      Regards

    • profile image

      Mimi 3 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie,

      We have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 166,000 miles on her. It was my husbands car who put most of the miles, but then given to the first of three teens to use in 2010, now on last one. Its been fine with no major mechanical issues till now. Check engine light came on Sunday and started to lurch when you hit gas. It takes a moment to catch from stop. Tried reverse, same thing. My mechanic said the codes all transmission, but could be electrical or sensors? He doesn't have necessary equipment to check that, but I could take it to a transmission place he suggested and they could check if it is that or we need a new one. He said he would not fix if it is expensive trans job if it were his car. Probably would if sensors weren't too high (He's a great guy:)

      Now a quandary, he said fluid was fine and looked good. Could still be transmission we need, but he said might be sensors which wouldn't run as much. We only need this to get through another year and half till the youngest off to college do you think I should drive the 3 miles to transmission shop to diagnose for $85? Just put new tires on her two months ago too, but maybe time to call auto salvage guys?

      Thank you

    • profile image

      kecate 3 weeks ago

      hey Eddie,

      I have a 2001 honda civic coupee. Last year I replaced the transmission with the one I took from the junk yard. In My first drive test after replacement the gears slip. I thought it was just for a few days. But 6 month passed, gears still slip especially if rpm is over 3000. I checked trans fluid, some day was low so I topped it up. The day after it was too much so I have to drain it. Checked around, found a leak (just wet) around the trans (not dripping). I drove the car still and I saw another leak dripping around the engine. Swiped it to check where is the leak from. I noticed that leak is from the top between bell housing and engine (right in the joint). I already replaced the cam plug and the valve cover gasket but still leaking.

      So can you please tell me where is the source of the leak and the slipping gears?

      Thanks

    • profile image

      Jim 3 weeks ago

      Oops, I probably should have mentioned the make/model of my wife's car:

      2008 Acura MDX, with 120k miles

      Thanks again.

    • profile image

      Jim 3 weeks ago

      Hello Eddie,

      A few days ago, we took my wife's car in for a servicing (the manufacturer's B1 service light came on, which I assume is normal for the mileage). They performed an oil change and checked a bunch of other things they said.

      Over the weekend, I notice a small leak under the engine, which I assumed was oil. It was a really small leak (about size of a quarter), so I assumed it was a minor oil burn off or something and dismissed it. Then this morning, I was taking kids to school and I felt the transmission slip once. I kept driving, and then I noticed it slip again. I started driving slower and felt it happen again, so I pulled over and stopped, but by then the engine was smoking. I looked under the hood and it looked like oil was all over the engine, and underneath the car there was a giant pool of what looked like oil.

      I called the service place and they offered to tow it back in since I didn't want to drive it any further and risk damage to engine. The tow truck came and the guy told me that wasn't oil, but rather transmission fluid, and said it was good I decide to stop driving.

      So, my question, is the car already toast?

      If I've never ever experienced any problems with the transmission before, is it likely this service place screwed something up when they had it a few days ago? If they don't own up to it, is there any way to prove it?

      Thanks for your time and expertise!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 4 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ana,

      It sounds iike you have a transmission fluid leak and the fluid finally got low enough to stop the car from moving. Hopefully the mechanic will fix the leak, top off the transmission fluid, and you'll get your car back. Let me know if you have more questions, and keep me posted on what they find, thanks.

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      Ana 4 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie,

      While driving to work this morning, my car drove fine for about 40 minutes on the interstate, but once I hit stop and go traffic the car started acting strange. Basically, when I would accelerate from a stop it would rev up but not move for a few seconds. Somehow made it to the parking garage (about 10 stop and go situations). Left work early to avoid stop and go traffic but no luck, basically pulled off after a couple of blocks as the check engine light came on. It seemed a lot worse than in the morning. Had it towed to the mechanic but it will not be worked on till Monday. Anxious to know what it might be. Husband says he noticed it the day before but thought it was just a fluke as it only happened once for him. Worried I just killed the car by driving it instead of getting it towed right away.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 4 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jesse,

      The damage was already done when the transmission was popping out of gear. When a transmission pops out of gear, usually there is an internal problem. If the transmission was low on oil, most likely it would have seized and the car would not roll easy in any gear. The loud bang could have been the clutch pressure plate, but you won't know until the transmission is removed. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 4 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gus,

      It's very possible the torque converter solenoid is failing and needs to be replaced. The only way to know for sure is to replace it and see if the problem is solved. If the problem persist, you'll most likely need to replace the trans. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

    • Gus Hernan profile image

      Gus Hernan 4 weeks ago

      Hello Eddie,

      How are you doing? I hope well.

      I am looking to pick your brain and knowledge as to a problem I have with my 2005 Honda Pilot (168xxx miles)

      I live in SoCal , so bear with me when I tell you where I drove from, and about a week ago I drove my suv from Pomona to Los Angeles (about a 35 mile drive) and all was well , however along the way I felt the suv starting to slow down, even when I presses the gas pedal, and all it did was revved up in rpm. I coasted it off the freeway and checked if it had oil and it seemed it did but i still opted to buy some and topped it off. I turned it back on and it shifted fine and drove/accelerated fine but still getting closer to LA it seemed as if it was slipping , it would rev and then you could feel as if it slipped into gear.

      I finally got it home, several stops and letting it cool down, and now I turn it on and drive around and it shifts fine it accelerates fine.

      Could this be a symptom of a bad torque converter as it feels that the transmission itself is still working fine? Or should I just brace myself for a transmission rebuild?

      I did pull a code and it was P0740/P0741 ( cant remember which) but I talked to a transmission shop and they said the solenoid wasn't the problem it was the transmission.

      What are your thoughts?

      Thanks in advance.

    • profile image

      Gus Hernan 4 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2005 Honda Pilot that has a transmission problem. The suv shifts fine and shifts smoothly through every gear. If I put into reverse it doesnt knock or do any weird noise. Some days ago I was driving on the freeway and it went into false neutral, it did not accelerate when I pressed the gas , it just revved up. I coasted the suv off the freeway. Let it cool down and went and bought some transmission oil. Got on the freeway again and drove fine but after 15 mins it did the same thing again. I finally got it home and now I handed over to my mechanic and when he tried to test drive it around the darn suv doesnt slip and drives fine. We drove for about half an hour and no symptoms. The check engine light is on and I pulled the code P0741/P0740, my question is , do I need to pull the transmission and replace it with rebuilt one? Or could a bad torque converter be the culprit?

    • profile image

      Jesse j Perez 4 weeks ago

      I own a 2003 eclipse spyder (standard) and was told the clutch was replaced but not the clutch bearings when i bought it. Couple months later it started to pop out 4th gear when i started accelerating and the rpm needle would touch 3. Thats when i noticed a fluid leak when i park. Well i kept driving it like that shifting from 3rd to 5th skipping 4th completely when getting on the freeway and the other day it finally broke down on me. I was ob the freeway in 5th gear and it started to smoke alot smelling really burnt and started losing power no matter how much i pushed the gas or down shifted. I pulled over and let the smoke clear and drove it off the freeway using 1st and 2nd gear but it had no power whats so ever and i heard and felt a load bang. Some ppl say its cause i had no transmission fluid some say its my clutch...idk what it is idk squat about cars...but any idea what it could be and how much more damage did i cause by driving it off the freeway like that causing that bang?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ken,

      The transmission should still be under manufactures warranty, I recommend contacting the Ford dealer closest to you.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jason,

      If the check engine light is on, it could be storing a power train code. I recommend having the code pulled, and go from there. Keep e posted on what the code is, maybe I can help figure it out.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Pat,

      It's possible you may have an oil leak in the bell housing ( where the clutch is) or it's also possible your clutch is worn and it just starting to slip. I recommend you keep driving it and keep an eye on it for a few week. If it get any worse, you'll need to bring it in for diagnosis. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Amanda,

      Whith a transmission that old it's probably is in need of a rebuild. The rubber o-rings stat to deteriorate and leak fluid, once the transmission warms up, the seals expand and slow he leakage. I'm not positive this is the issue, you'll need to have a transmission specialist do a pressure test on the transmission and they can determine whether or not it ca be fixed. Hope this helps.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jenny,

      It sounds like there is an internal leak. Does the transmission make any abnormal noises?

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Flor,

      If the E.P light is coming on, there should be a code stored. Onc you have the code, it will tell you what system is malfunctioning.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dan,

      If the transmission filter is clogged or it's o-ring is torn, it could cause the transmission to lose pressure and go into a neutral mode. I recommend replacing the transmission filter and see if that is your problem. It's the cheapest place to start. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

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      Ken Wedgewood 5 weeks ago

      I bought a Ford escape in 2013 6 months later the transmission let go. Then Ford changed the transmission for a rebuilt one. The truck ran okay till Jan 17 & now the rebuilt transmission that was put in has no 1rst or 2nd gear. this truck is a lemon aid. if you have any questions please let me know thanks.

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      Daniel W 5 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie,

      2006 Chrysler Town/Country Lmtd minivan. No reverse at all. Just revs up RPM but no movement. It will drive forward "D" up to anywhere between 1500-2000RPM but then loss of power. Engine still runs, RPMs Rev up, but speed decreases until coming to a stop. We stop, put it in Park. Turn off engine. Give it a minute or two, start it again. Put in drive, then the same thing happens. Get up to between 1500-2000RPM then power loss again. Just will rev up when gas is pressed until we eventually roll to a stop. Any ideas what might be the issue here? Thanks in advance!

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      Flor 5 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie thanks for the response

      It's Mini Cooper automatic driving up hill down hill over revving and not changing in gear and e.p lights coming on really need a clue before i bring it to mechanic to get it fixed thanks flor

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      Jenny 5 weeks ago

      My 2007 Tahoe will shift into drive but will not take off. Transmission fluid is full also

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      Amanda 5 weeks ago

      I just bought a 1994 Cadillac Deville. I've noticed that after it has sat all night that first thing in the morning it does not want to go in gear, especially reverse. Once it gets going down the road, it doesn't give me anymore problems, reverse or otherwise. It's only when it's COLD. The trans fluid was checked today and they said that it was full and clean. What is causing this problem and is it fixable? Thanks

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      Pat 5 weeks ago

      Hello,

      About 2 years ago (70,000 miles ago) I changed the clutch and flywheel on my 2005 Acura TL standard transmission but now it feels like it's slipping again. I typically feel the RPMs rise when I go into 5th or 6th gear for a very brief moment. However, sometimes I feel it on the lower gears. I tried the 3rd gear test you mentioned above and my car stalled (RPMs did not rise) and I didn't smell anything burning. Is there something else that may be wrong or is it just in the earlier stages of slipping? Any feedback would be appreciated.

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      Jason goodwin 5 weeks ago

      I have a check engine light that's the only one that comes on.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mitchel,

      I don't think there are any adjustment that could solve your problem, it sounds more internal like a slight blockage at the first clutch pack. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Donna,

      It's possible you have a solenoid problem and it can be fixed quick and inexpensively.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Paul,

      It could be shot at this point, but for a few bucks, you could have the transmission fluid and filter replaced and you could possibly save thousands. If the service helps your situation, you could possibly get a few more years out of the truck, it's your call.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Flor,

      Is the Mini Cooper a standard or automatic transmission?

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jason,

      Are there any warning lights lit on the dash? It sounds like you're losing pressure to one of the clutch packs, the question is why? This is usually caused by a clogged filter (if applicable), worn o-rings, dirty fluid, or and electrical problem.

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      Jason goodwin 5 weeks ago

      How you doing Eddie. I have a 03 dodge neon my fluid is good but sometimes when I'm driving there will be times when I'm driving and the car will feel like it just drops into neutral. And then it will like catch a gear again and shoot back into the gear and keep doing this it seems to only happen when I drive on main roads but on the highway I don't have this problem do you have a slight clue on what this could be?... athat's this point anything would help...thanks

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      Flor 5 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie first thanks for sharing your expertise, I have concern about my car it's a Mini Cooper 2004 it's run good but lately i noticed that going up in a hill road not that high it's struggling and the speed stay at 40 even when i accelerate and step on the gas trough all the way down it didn't speed up just wondering what it's cause? Thanks in advance

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      Paul 5 weeks ago

      Eddie,

      Have a 98 s-10 blazer, goes really good when cold, but as soon as it warms up it won't go anywhere in Fwd. or Rev. tranny fluid is black and burnt smelling don't want to put new fluid in if tranny is shot

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      Donna 5 weeks ago

      I have a 2006 F-150 with 112K miles, and experienced the exact thing as Helena . I had my transmission rebuilt 6 months ago, though, and today I lost reverse and it's back in the shop.

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      Mitchel 5 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I just had a problem before with my 1992 Isuzu Bighorn 3.1 D automatic transmission loss of power few month ago that even if i step deep on the accelerator pedal the car won't move, As advice by the mechanic we just did change the transmission oil and replaced the filter and it gained power again, but there is a bit change after that, when i put the stick on Drive the car will move hardly and slowly for a few seconds then it will run fine. I think the problem is only at the 1st gear because it runs smooth as it reaches 20 kmh onwards. Also if i shift the stick on 2 it runs fine.

      Do we need to adjust or replaced something? Thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Big C,

      That's great news :) Thanks for coming back with an update, I really appreciate it, and the readers will too.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Raymund,

      I'm sorry, I didn't see your reply. Most likely your transmission has an internal problem and will need to be disassembled to repair it. The reverse brake inside the transmission is probably losing pressure, causing the transmission to not shift. Hope this helps.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Konnie,

      The transmission fluid is full, but is it clean? When was the last time you had the transmission fluid changed? What is the year, make, and model of the vehicle?

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marie,

      Is this a standard or automatic transmission?

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Craig,

      I don't think removing the cap had anything to do with the code that popped up. It sounds to me like you have a problem with the transmission pressure switch. If it's not reading the pressure correctly, it may not apply enough pressure causing the transmission to slip. I recommend testing the pressure switch to see if it has failed.

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      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Helena,

      The CVT transmission can feel exactly as you describe, and sometime the RPM's can seem to high as well. Car manufactures are going to this type of transmission for the benefit of fuel economy, but there are a lot of customers out there that do not like the change and feel of the CVT. Most CVT transmission have no shift points like the old 4-5 and 6 speed transmissions, except for some of the new models which are starting to incorporate a shit point feeling in the transmission. Some vehicles do have software updates that will improve this bucking feeling, so don't give up hope yet. Let me know if the Dealership helps out your problem, it will be good info to post hear for other readers :)

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      Helena 5 weeks ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thanks so much for offering your expertise! Here's my issues. Don't know if it's transmission related, but it feels like it:

      Was SO excited to get my 2017 Forester, my first new car ever (at 40 yrs. old)! All was great with my Subaru until about 1k miles in when I felt something like bucking or shuddering when going up a steep hill on the highway. I thought it was wind pushing against car and wrote it off, but since then, the feeling has increased, more often when I'm not getting on the gas lightly or keeping foot steady at lower speeds. I used to drive manuals, and it feels like it's in too high of a gear. It's especially obvious to me because I definitely did not feel it for the first couple of weeks or so. I'm taking it in tomorrow, but I'm expecting them to give me a bunch of nothing based on what others have written. If that happens, I'm going to contact Subaru directly. There are many other owners describing the same thing on this site under forum title: 2017 Forester CVT Low Fluid Level Recall (Merged Thread). I'm so irritated because this was my first venture away from Honda and Toyota...

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      Craig Palma 6 weeks ago

      I opened my transition fluid cap while the keep was running. It gave out a hissing sound as air escaped. The next day I started my car and as soon as a shifted into drive it started slipping. My check engine light came on and plugged in the diagnostic complex and came with a code in regards to the transmition fluid pressure sensor/switch. Any thoughts as to the issue/fix needed? At almost seems to get better the warmer the engine is.

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      Marie 6 weeks ago

      My car stopped moving as I was driving home from work it seemed if I held the shifter it would go but then that stopped working too. I don't see any fluid leaking on the ground so could it be transmission?

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      Konnie 6 weeks ago

      My 2003 Dodge Caravan every winter when it's cold it has trouble getting into gear to drive. Reverse is fine. After warming it up for 35 to 40 minutes it is usually fine. The transmission fluid is full. Any suggestions?

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      Eddie Carrara 7 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Franz,

      Anytime a vehicle is pulling or hauling more weight then the recommended manufactures spec the transmission should have a cooler, we even add power steering cooler now on new vehicles when towing. But the transmission shop should have noticed this when they had your vehicle completely apart, Also the transmission shop should have flushed the transmission cooler in the radiator before they even hook up the lines. The debris from the burnt transmission is sitting as sediment at the bottom of the cooler, so as soon as you start the engine, all this debris is contaminating the new transmission and shortening the life of this new transmission.

      I believe the transmission shop is to blame for this failure because they neglected to clean the original cooler and or didn't install an external cooler, nor did they even try to up sell you one during the repair. They are transmission specialist, this is rule #1. See my article on my website, it goes into more depth. http://www.simple-car-answers.com/Transmission-Ins...

      Hope this help Franz, keep me posted, thanks.

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      Franz 7 weeks ago

      Good morning Eddie,

      well, the Transmission shop checked the unit they replaced and say it burned up because of no transmission oil cooler is installed. They say that the radiator might be partially plugged, and that is why the old transmission failed (after 165000 MILES), and also the rebuilt one after 30 miles.

      I have never had any issue with overheating, and I did not notice the coolant temp gage indicate overheating. I spend 5 months/yr in the heat of Mexico, and keep a close eye on that gage.

      Is this possible, that the coolant temp remains normal while the transmission fluid overheats?

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      Shirley Monti 7 weeks ago

      My take off is slow but once it hits 30 speed picks up quick.. Unable to get enough power to go up hill.. Reverse works fine.

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      Eddie Carrara 7 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Natalie,

      Have you checked the transmission fluid level yet? Do you see any transmission fluid leaks on the ground where you park? Is your engine running smooth? Is the check engine light on? Let me know, thanks.

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      Natalie 7 weeks ago

      Hello, I need your help really bad! My nissan Altima '03 had a transmission problem where when it was start it would not even drive when shifted to D . After much stressing, I got put another used, but good transmission. The car worked well for a couple of months and now the shifting of gears is so delayed that I am scared to even accelerate. Not only that but when I am stopped at a red light my car starts to jerk forward and backward. It gives me a heart attack. I honestly do not know what else to do. People say it is the transmission flush, can you help me? THANK YOU.

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      Eddie Carrara 7 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      OK Franz, Keep me posted.

      Hi Teodor,

      What you're describing sounds like the pressure plate is not installed correctly or not torqued properly. The clutch pedal should go in and out with no noise and it should never slip when it's brand new. It sounds like uneven pressure on the disc, which would lead me to believe the pressure plate is not siting flat on the flywheel. This is just a guess. Let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Michael,

      It sounds like either you have an oil leak inside the bell housing or your clutch disc is worn. A worn clutch disc will usually start slipping long before it needs to be replaced, that why I thought maybe some oil got on the clutch assembly and caused it to fail quick. Let me know what you find, thanks Michael.

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      Michael 7 weeks ago

      I have a 2002 Mazda protege, started to notice and increase in rpm's while driving in any gear but no increase to cars speed, the car also started to feel sluggish and had less pull than previously. I stopped at a store and returned to the car, started fine, depressed clutch pedal and moved shifter in to first gear, added gas and released clutch and nothing happened. The cars rpm'sincreased but no engagement of the actual gears, I tired all the gears and the same issue. Could his be a clutch problem or transmission? Any insight would be appreciated.

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      Teodor Dimitrov 8 weeks ago

      Hello, Eddie

      I have specific question. I got this http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/dar... brand new clutch kit. I put it on my Seat Leon 1.9tdi 110 h.p. ASV (engine code) and i have 2 problems with the kit. The first one is when i try to press clutch pedal to the floor it stops on 8/10 and if the engine is turned on it starts making very powerful noise (clutch fork touches the pressure plate). If i drive the car and everytime i press the clutch pedal to 7/10 its ok. Its easy to change gears and put on reverse.

      The second problem is when i start driving at the morning first 30 minutes if i press gas pedal 10/10 its slipping on 4th and 5th gears. The RPM goes from 1700 to 2300 and stays there for around 3-4 seconds. If i do it few times its stop slipping, but when the kit get cold its happening the same problem. I drove like that 1500~ miles, so i think its enought to fit well the kit. Nobady knows why is that happening.

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      Franz 8 weeks ago

      Thank you for getting back to me, Eddie;

      Yes, transmission and torque Converter were replaced as one (new rebuilt) unit. Will investigate the electrical approach, and keep you posted.

      Thanks again. and Happy New Year.

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      Eddie Carrara 8 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Robert,

      Yes, I would definitely replace the solenoid valve, most likely it's an electronic failure.

      Hi Franz,

      I'm no expert on transmissions, but it seem to me like the torque converter is the issue, sounds like it's going in and out of lock up. I wounder if you have an electrical issue causing the problem because the same thing happened to both transmissions. I'm assuming the trans and torque converter were both replaced, I doubt the shop reused the old torque converter. Let me know your thoughts Franz, thanks.

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      Robert 2 months ago

      Hey Eddie it me again, I took it to scan and found out a code P0750 "shift solenoid A malfunction" could that possibly be my problem?? Should I change the solenoid or only have It cleaned up? Your help would be appreciated once more..

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      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Robert,

      If there are no codes stored, it's possible you have a internal problem or maybe one of the external shift solenoids are intermittently failing. I recommend taking it to a transmission specialist for this problem unless you have transmission codes stored.

      Hi Padmakumar,

      Not usually because the drivetrain is in the front of the vehicle.

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      padmakumar 2 months ago

      When a manual transmission Hyundai Accent car collides from rear while driving will it damage the transmission?

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      Robert 2 months ago

      Hi Eddie.

      I have a 2004 Honda CR-v , , problem with it is that from first gear to second it revs about 1000rpm before shifting into second gear with a slight kick. I already changed the fluid and saw no better results.. your help would be appreciated..

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      Raymund 2 months ago

      "Hi Raymund,

      How does the transmission fluid look? Is it clean and pink or dark and dirty? How about the level? Check it on level ground with the engine off and let me know, thanks."

      Hello Again Eddie,

      my fluid is new, and on the right level..i have the mechanic check and replace it... but when he changed it he said to me that he found something on the magnetic lock some piece of metal..and lots of carbon....

      after the aft changed, it's still same....

      thanks

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      Seema R (Brampton) 2 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I drive a 2001 Honda Prelude, my problem started off with my car very randomly "staulling" or "jerking," as I drive, inspite of a smooth drive otherwise, this issue scared me as I feared possibly breaking down and shortly after my speedometer needle stopped working also? When I took it into my mechanic to have a look, he said..no doubt, I need a new transmission...so we found a used one, and he mentioned I have a "dual cam," if that makes sense so it's gonna cost me $1500. So I left my vehicle with him for 11/2 days and I when I go to pick my car up and start driving, on my way home...my car starts to jerk again? This time I was on the highway in stop and go, rush hour traffic and my car would only rev on acceleration but not move after I gave gas, after stopping..so I had the scariest drive home, drove with my hazards on....I'm soo frustrated...the mech I went to is in another city so it's not as easy as going back and leaving my car with him again to check it out. The transmission I purchased has a warranty and the mech said to bring it by when I can if the issue doesn't stop..but he said it could just be some debree that needs to clear...is this true? I'm so stressed out and exhausted over this...please help. Btw my car is automatic (triptronic) transmission and has 234,000km and the transmission I purchased was from a car that only had 160,000km. Please advise....

      Regards,

      Seema.

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      Chris 2 months ago

      Hi, when I put my 2008 F150 into drive it goes but later after the truck is warmed up and I put it in drive it doesn't engage and can't move. But I can put it in 2 then it engages and moves then I can put it in drive and is fine.

      Any idea what the problem could be? I just spent $3000 getting a new torque converter installed but the problem still exists

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      Brad 2 months ago

      Hi Eddie - I've done a bunch more research and finally found out that the problem is in the transfer case, not the transmission. Apparently, this is a common problem w/ the Borg Warner 4405 TC, but I kept trying to troubleshoot a perceived transmission problem, when it wasn't that at all.

      Thanx for your response !! - Brad

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      Rm082e 2 months ago

      2004 Honda Pilot 166,000 miles

      About a year ago, I was pulling out of a parking space and I was able to reverse but when I put the car in drive, it did not accelerate. I tried each gear and it would not accelerate in any gear. After shutting the car off and trying again, it accelerated just fine. When I got home I checked the transmission fluid and it appeared a little low so I topped it off and it was driving fine until the other day. This time, I was stuck in traffic so the car was in idle for about 30 minutes, then I drove about a mile, got stopped at a red light then when I went to accelerate, it wouldn't go. I tried all the gears and turning the car off and back on but it wouldn't go. While I was waiting for the tow truck, I tried to start it again and it worked just fine and it has been working fine since. I checked the transmission fluid and it wasn't that low, I added maybe 1 oz to top it off. Would being only a tiny bit low on fluid cause this? Also, no check engine light and no stored codes.

      I am the second owner and have owned the car for 3 years. The original owner was an elderly man that took very good care of the car and did all the scheduled maintenance. I am aware of the Honda transmission recall and this car was taken in and a trans kit was installed by Honda years ago (before I bought the car). I don't think it is a transmission problem though. I'm wondering if this could be a sensor or solenoid. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Harry,

      Did you replace the PCM?

      Hi Paul,

      Sounds like you have a external solenoid problem, if the check engine light or transmission light is on, have the code pulled.

      Hi Brad,

      The noise you're describing sounds like a pump or a torque converter problem, possible the torque converter is coming apart internally?

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      Brad 2 months ago

      Hi-

      I have what seems to be an unusual problem w/ the trans on my '97 Ford Explorer (5R55E trans). It does not slip - it accelerates & shifts solidly, but when I let off the gas, it pops out of gear and a rattling type sound can be heard like it's caught between gears. I have to pull over & stop to get it back in gear. It then drives normally again, as long as it's under load. Fluid level is fine & I have replaced the valve body w/ all 6 solenoids & gaskets & the problem is unchanged. I have also adjusted the bands via the 2 external adjusters - no change. I would really appreciate any ideas !!

      Thanx

      Brad

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      Paul 2 months ago

      I have a Nissan X trail with automatic transmission system. For sometime no, it keeps failing to switch to gear 2 and above after I have driven it for a few kilometers unless the engine is switched off and restarted. The moment this has happened, the rpm pointer on the dashboard will move up proportionately with the accelerator without a corresponding increase in speed.

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      Paul 2 months ago

      I have a Nissan X trail with automatic transmission system. For sometime no, it keeps failing to switch to gear 2 and above after I have driven it for a few kilometers unless the engine is switched off and restarted. The moment this has happened, the rpm pointer on the dashboard will move up proportionately with the accelerator without a corresponding increase in speed.

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      harry smith 2 months ago

      what causes golf3 to cut after changing the gear box from automatic to manual

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      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Raymund,

      How does the transmission fluid look? Is it clean and pink or dark and dirty? How about the level? Check it on level ground with the engine off and let me know, thanks.

      Hi Abubakar,

      It sounds to me like you may have a bent shift fork on that syncro. There is not a lot that can cause a transmission to pop out of gear. It sounds like it's not engaging completely, usually a worn syncro or shift fork causes this problem. Hope this helps.

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      Abubakar Said 2 months ago

      Hi,

      I work in a Mercedes Benz truck dealership as a service adviser. I received a 4040 Actros truck with manual transmission and the problem is that, at a speed of 75 kph and on 8 gear, it slips and goes to neutral. Found the clutch was worn out by 89% and replaced it. Went for a road test and had the same problem again. Overhauled the transmission and changed the synchronizer ring and cone and bearings and installed it back. Filled up with transmission oil & went for a second road test and had the same problem again. Thought now that the shifting cylinder has an internal leakage and replaced it. Went for a road test and had it again. We are running against time now as the client is pissed and we have no further explanations.

      Kindly can you tell me what to do now.

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      Raymund 2 months ago

      Hello Eddie

      I have honda civic 2005 AT, i just ran some little problem on its reverse, when i parked it too long, reverse wont kick-off immmediately, i waited almost 30secs to get the reverse gear work...mostly if i parked it all night and start in morning...can you advise me please what is wrong? thanks in advance

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      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lyss,

      Thanks for the update, but if you do take it to VW, let me know what they find, it would be great information to have here, thanks again.

      Hi Dan,

      If both axles are OK and not broken, most likely it's an internal transmission problem. When you put the transmission in gear, do you hear any thing moving or any noises?

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      Lyss 3 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      An update:

      I work for Hertz, so I swung my our mechanic to check it out quickly (easier than going to VW as he does that stuff free!) and he cleared several codes. Most of which he says were just the result of my engine revving that high, and were nothing detrimental. He didn't find anything to do with an error that may have caused it to get stuck in 1st. He concluded that it was more than likely a computer error like you suspected, and just told me to keep an eye on it, so that if it happens again I'm prepared and can take it to VW under the warranty. Thank you for your advice :)

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      dan 3 months ago

      good day, i have a jeep cherokee 2,5 d GDR. i was driving for a sudden just neautralise and since it never shift into gears until i engage in part time motion then it moves bt not responding with the engine acceleration i then topped oil and fit the new clutch plate and pressure plate with new release bearing but to my suprise no change . can u please help with the problem

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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dave,

      It may be time to take it in to a transmission shop just so they can road test it to give you an idea of what might be causing the shutter.

      Hi Lyss,

      The computer may have stored a code, so I would definitely take it into VW while your still under warranty. It doesn't really sound mechanical to me because the problem disappeared when you cycled the key, sounds more like a glitch in the electronics. Keep me posted if you have time on what they find, this would be great information to share :)

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      Lyss 3 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I have a manual transmission 2014 VW Golf Comfortline (I'm in Australia, so it's a different engine to the US one). I've only got about 47,000 kms on it and I don't make a habit of riding my clutch or anything, but today for the first time in it's lifetime (I've had it since brand new) I was going around a turn in 2nd gear and easing off the clutch when I noticed the revs were abnormally high (4-5k) for my speed in 2nd gear, glanced down and my dash said 1st gear. Thinking I was distracted from my turn or something, I popped it into neutral and tried to ease back in to 2nd, and the same thing happened again. Frantically wondering if maybe 2nd was messed up I tried 3rd, with the same issue. I pulled off to the side to a complete stop, letting my stop/start engine shut the engine off, and noticed a really potent burning smell. I started off again, and made it home in 2 minutes without any more problems, but my engine smelled terribly the whole way. It's alright now, about a half hour later, but I'm just concerned that this may be a sign of future problems? Does it sound like my clutch may be going, or maybe a computer glitch or something? (There's so much tech in my car it may as well be a transformer, so I didn't know if it was mechanical or not). It's still under warranty for another 5 months, so I can always take it to VW if it's a fault, I'm just concerned!

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      Dave 3 months ago

      No lights or warnings when the shutter occurs. It's almost like a three to four count when it happens...sort of a tap,tap,tap in fast succession without the sound of course.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dave,

      There are a lot of things that can cause the shutter, the main cause if loss of pressure at that shift point, but what is causing the loss of pressure is the question. It could be something as simple as a shift valve sticking externally or a valve in the valve body internally. Is there any warning lights on? Or lights flashing when this happens?

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      Dave 3 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2007 VW Jetta 2.5L with 6spd Tiptronic transmission with 65K miles. It has an occasional "shutter" (for the lack of a better description) between second and third gears and sometimes third and fourth, typically after it warms up, but has occurred when it was cold. We replaced the transmission fluid and filter by following the recommendations of checking the fluid level at operating temperature, so we know the fluid level is correct. Can you tell me what you think is causing the shutter?

      Thanks for the help!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Syed,

      Your best bet is to find a transmission specialist. The check engine light is on probably because you have a problem with the transmission, so you'll need to pull the code and diagnose what's causing the problem.

      Hi James,

      Maybe it's not the transmission? It sounds to me like you have a spark plug or coil cutting out. I recommend checking everything in the ignition system, starting with the spark plugs. Let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Heather,

      If you have the code pulled from the computer it will give you an idea of what is wrong. It sounds to me like you may have a vacuum leak of some sort, it could be a component, ruptured vacuum line or gasket. I recommend having the code pulled first and diagnose from the results. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

      Hi Big C,

      Thanks for coming back with an update. I love success stories, it gives me inspiration to keep going, so thank you very much :)

    • profile image

      BIG C 3 months ago

      Hi Eddie

      I just wanted to tell you thank you!! I had inquired with you about the problem I had with my 1999 Honda Accord feeling like I was hitting a speed bump on a fast take off from a dead stop. Well I did exactly what you said and I made it happen with the parking brake on and hold the brake and pushing the gas and you were absolutely correct I found that the front motor mount was completely torn. The complete top peice of the mount was not attached. I just replaced it last night and everything is working great now. I just wanted to say Thank you.

      BIG C

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      Heather 3 months ago

      Hi i have a 2005 automatic nissan altima. When i turn on the engine, it revs really high. (sometimes revs without even touching the gas). check engine light is on, and now more recently, once i hit about 10 mph, (so shifting from 1st to 2nd, it it gives me a hard jerk. Also, going up hills, the car slows down ALOT, even though im pushing the gas, please advise. Thanks! morrishn@state.gov

    • profile image

      james eber 3 months ago

      2006 Mercy Milan, Manual transmission. From a dead stop on an incline of a hill, or if I accelerate from stop really quickly, my car will start going forward, then for a fraction of a second, it feels like there's no thrust/like something slips/like something isn't catching, then it picks up where it left off and continues smoothly. Thanks in advance!

    • Syed M Ammar profile image

      Syed M Ammar 3 months ago

      Hello! I have a Lexus ES300, 2001. I have had the car for a couple of months and got it imported from the US. My car's RPM shifts just fine when the temperature of the car is low, but when the car warms up, the RPM doesn't shift after 2. The engine check is always on too. I have tried many mechanics, but none of them are able to figure out the exact cause. Can anyone help in this regard, please?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Cindi,

      It's sounds like you have a valve hanging up inside the transmission or a solenoid is not working all the time. I recommend going to have the code pulled from the PCM, it will point you in the right direction.

      Hi Annette,

      Is your check engine light on when this happens? There are a lot of things that can cause this problem. It sounds like the transmission is losing internal pressure, this is caused by leaking seals, o-rings, gaskets etc... Are there an external leaks that you can see?

      Hi Seyi,

      Did you replace all your calipers or just one? Is this a 4 wheel disc brake system or do you have drums in the rear?

    • profile image

      seyi 3 months ago

      i have a 1999 nisan Altima. lately if the car slows down in traffic the tires get temporarily locked for few seconds as if the gear is in neutral. you either leave it to move by itself which could be like btw 5-10 seconds or force movement by pressing down on accelerator. the caliper has been changed yet the problem persists. its driving me nuts. this only happens when the car is slowing down speed in traffic and never in normal speed.

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      Annette 3 months ago

      Hello, I have a 2010 Ford Ranger, 57,000Kms, automatic, 2.3 engine. The transmission slips (halts) when it is cold as I change from reverse to drive. Why does it do this and is the repair expensive? I had it all checked out in May 2015 while under warranty. They scoped it and found the torque converter was faulty which they replaced but the transmission was declared good. Thank you for your help.

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      Cyndi 4 months ago

      I have 2001 Mazda tribute. I've had the car several years and all of a sudden I go to work a few months ago and as I get up to about 40mph, RPMs shoot up and the car won't go anywhere. I could drive it in second fine but not drive. So a few weeks go by and all of a sudden it's driving normal again.Now a couple months later it is back to where it won't go while in drive past 40mph. When checking the transmission fluid it seems there is too much but I checked periodically while it was driving okay and it was good, now it looks like there is too much. Could there be something keeping the fluid from getting to the transmission? Overdrive light of course blinks when in drive and trying to go above 40. Car smells over heated even though temp reads fine. Thanks!!!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi David,

      It sounds like you may have blown first gear clutch pack. If this problem would have happened slowly over time I would probably recommend adjusting the bands, but I think all pressure was lost going to the first gear clutch pack. I think it's time for a rebuild.

      Hi Big C,

      Something seems to be hitting the body when accelerating hard, you'll need to look at anything that will flexes on hard acceleration. Can you reproduce the noise without driving? Can you pull the e brake, place one foot on the brake and accelerate with the other foot, then have someone watch the engine flex with the hood open too see if anything is hitting the body? Let me know, thanks.

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      Big C 4 months ago

      Hi Eddie thanks for the response and I did check the motor mounts and they are actually in pretty good shape. It has me boggled a but because its only at take off and a fast take off slow take off is fine. and regular driving is fine. I'm asking before I tear into anything. But I'm wondering if something wrong with the axle is possible or transmission? If I do a hard take off and when its shifts hard into second it kind of does the same thing but not as bad as from a dead stop. Any other idea's??

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      David Floyd 4 months ago

      I have a Turbo 350 in a 2wd Chevy c20. The transmission was working fine, then while driving home it started slipping in first, second and drive were fine. By the time I got close to my house i had lost first completely. I did check the fluid and seam a little low, but didn't think it was that low. Any ideas of what could be the issue and is there a way to adjust the bands if they are worn without rebuilding the transmission? Thanks for your help.

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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Guillermo,

      The problem you're describing sounds like a possible coil or spark plug problem, so it would be electrical. I recommend starting out by replacing all your spark plugs and see if that helps. If it still does it, you'll need to dig a little deeper.

      Hi Celeste,

      It's possible your pressure plate is the problem, but the clutch disc could also be the problem. At most you'll destroy the clutch assembly and flywheel, but you shouldn't do any damage to the engine. Let me know if you have more questions.

      Hi Big C

      I would start by checking your motor mounts. If any are torn or broken, the heavy cast metal will rub against the body and cause that type of noise. Check the front one and passengers sine one first, these are the most common ones to break. Let me know what you find, thanks.

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      BIG C 4 months ago

      I have a 99 Accord V6 when I take off from a dead stop fast there is like a clunk or grind and feels almost like a hit a small speed bump but fast and hard. But as soon as I let off the gas it corrects and works fine and if I take off slow it works fine. normal use down the road is fine also it is only from a dead stop with a fast take off. So right now I baby it when I take off but trying to figure out what it may be?

    • profile image

      Celeste Karyn Stoop 4 months ago

      Hi, So my issue is this. I have a VW golf and thought originally it was the clutch. The car lags when I try take off and over revs to almost get it to take off. It tends to shake/vibrate. I think the pressure plate is the problem because I've adjusted the clutch and it'll be fine for 2 days and then start doing the same thing again. What possible damages can arise if I drive like this as I don't want to blow my engine if its a possibility?

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      guillermo diaz 4 months ago

      i have an acura rsx 2005 it was good till not so long ago im not sure if its transmission wise or electrical wise. when driving it before the rpms where a little crazy when a accelerating from 2 itll go to 5 and sometimes the car would pull me back for no reason (automatic transmission) my dad later on went to see that the acceleration cable and the transmission cables had to be regulated because he said they werent where they had to be and now it pulls me back less but when slowing down i still feel a little bit of the pull back

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Amanda,

      If the fluid is very dirty and the filter is clogged, yes, it can cause issues. I recommend starting with a fluid and filter change (if it has one) and see if the problem gets any better. Keep me posted, thanks.

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      Amanda 4 months ago

      I have a 1990 Volvo 740gl....having issues because it drives good until you get up to 40 and it won't shift past that....it's still drives just sounds wide open like I'm flooring it....weird part is after you drive it for a little bit it catchs and finally shifts???it's not low on fluid but does need to be changed....could the fluid be the problem or is our transmission going out???

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tony,

      It sounds like you're loosing pressure in the transmission. I recommend changing the trans fluid and filter first, also inspect the old filter for contamination/debris.

      Hi Carla,

      A second opinion is always a good idea, especially with a transmission problem, try to find a transmission specialist.

      Hi Tina,

      If the timing chain tensioner is not tight (worn) is can cause this condition. I trust the Chevy garage knows the problem well because a lot of there vehicles have this problem. Hope this helps.

    • profile image

      TINA 4 months ago

      Hi

      I have a 2008 GMC Acadia with 129,xxx miles on it. I bought it a little over 30 days ago and about a week ago it started feeling like it would hop/shimmy down the road at about 3 RPM and below 2 RPMS. If I lift my foot off the accelerator it stops and runs great. It has great pick up and it will move down the road. I had a warranty on it and I took it back the guy said it was a solenoid and when he was done with it it was 3 times worse than when he took it. Now it is at the Chevy garage because they are telling him it is the timing chains making it shift into a higher gear before it is up to the right speed. Do you have any idea as to what it might be? I feel like they are just guessing now.

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      Carla s. 4 months ago

      If my 2003 Lincoln LS (automatic) is barely slipping while driving on mountainous roads, and the transmission shop says they need to rebuild , should I get a second opinion?

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      Tony 4 months ago

      I just bought a used 99 f150 2wheel drive with 194k miles on it. At a standing I go to take off and it will rev up and then catch the gear like a neutral drop. And then on the fly it will do the same if excelerated. Could this be the cable issues on recall or ????? Please help

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rachel,

      Are you sure it's the transmission and not the engine? I would suspect the engine is causing this problem, not the transmission if you have never had an issue like this before.

    • profile image

      Rachel 4 months ago

      Just had a newer motor put in car. works good. I have had no problems with the transmission, now it sounds like it is skipping and shaking, when I get up to

      30. then again at 50. above that, it is fine. my mechanic said he did nothing to the transmission. Help....................

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Russ,

      Call around town and find a shop that has a transmission flush machine. This machine will flush 11-15 quarts of transmission fluid through the transmission while the engine running, it's the best flush procedure for this issue. We have done it many times on the Honda's and have had great success. It worth a shot and a lot cheaper than a trans. Let me know how you make out Russ, thanks.

    • profile image

      April 4 months ago

      I hope I can get some answer's.

      Ok so a week ago while driving home my 2001 chevy 2wd tahoe didn't want to drive but only 20mph. I had no clue what was happening. I ended up having to push my truck home and had mechanic come change out the filter and fluid. He said it's most likely just clogged up. So when he did that the truck ran fine. I was back on the road. When I tried driving it on the highway though it seemed different to me than before. I could only go about 50mph and the rpm was nearly hitting 4,000. It's never been that high. I have been having fluid leaks about 4 times all week as well. So I told my mechanic and he said it's probably just because he added extra fluid and it has to adjust and come out to get back to normal. So ok I went to autozone and they looked at the fluid it was still high, about 2 inches higher from where it needed to be. Next day I'm at a red light trying to go when it turns green aND the truck started acting up again. It didn't want to drive at all. Like the train, I think I can, I think I can. .. Omg I was so scared at that intersection during traffic. So it's just there aND I don't know what to do now. Please help.

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      russ 4 months ago

      have a 96 explorer ; the trans. fluid camber in the radiator ruptured causing a fluid exchange. i bypassed the radiator with small cooler add on in front of the radiator, drained the trans. and changed the filter after the tans started acting up. added some. adding some Lucas help for a while, but it quite one night and had to be taken to a shop. the guy there said it was shot, but i put some trans X in and drove it home 3 to 4 miles with no problems. now i can drive it around the yard and driveway, but it will start slipping if i try any distance drives. oh and i did change the fluid once more. could you give me any ideas ? or is it time for a new trany? thank you

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Melissa,

      Sounds like an internal problem, It's very odd that you have gears dropping off like that. I would start by checking the oil level in the trans, top it off if needed. If the oil level is OK, you may need to replace or rebuild the trans.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Melissa,

      Sounds like an internal problem, It's very odd that you have gears dropping off like that. I would start by checking the oil level in the trans, top it off if needed. If the oil level is OK, you may need to replace or rebuild the trans.

    • profile image

      Melissa 4 months ago

      I have a 1999 Mercury Cougar 2.5L V6 with a manual 5 speed transmission. It started about a month ago when I would be stopped at light or stop sign when I would put the car in 1st gear and I would go to let out on the clutch it would shoot the shifter back and out of gear and grind like we never had the clutch engaged. Now yesterday I was driving to work and went to downshift and could no longer get the car into 1st gear. So I started off in second. Two to three blocks later I was downshifting at a light and could no longer get the car into second gear. I drove from a stop in third gear to reach my destination. I did not smell anything like the clutch burning up. Is my clutch going out or is it going to be a whole transmission rebuild? Or could it also be my pressure plate going out

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rene,

      When the AC is on, usually the idle is higher, and when the heat is on, the idle is lower. It's possible you have a bad motor mount, but I think the idle speed is causing most of your problems here.

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      rene 4 months ago

      I got a Honda accord 2001 lx , when I put my gear to drive my engine would kick in so hard as if want to accelerate. Same thing happen when I stop and go to idle . This happen so badly when my AC is on , but when I put air to heater , the problem would disappear or will minimize it. I already change my Idle valve. What u think is the problem. Mechanic say no transmission problem, its about 200k miles

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi mohawkrog,

      It's sounds like you may have some debris floating around inside the trans or you have a solenoid that is kicking the bucket. All solenoids are external so it maybe an easy fix.

      Hi Jessica,

      your extended warranty should cover diagnostics. You'll need to drop the car off at the dealership the night before so they can drive it in the morning when it's cold, it's the only way for them to reproduce the problem, then you can get it fixed ;) Keep me posted on how you make out, thanks.

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      Jessica Swarbrick 5 months ago

      Hello, I have a 2014 jeep grand cherokee limited with 67k. for the past 3 months the car is shifting very hard into 1,2, and 3 rd gear untill the transmission or motor warm up. I have brought it to the dealer and they say nothing is wrong but i believe there is. They have not driven the car while it is cold so they wouldn't know. This happens every morning and sometimes in the afternoon after work and it has sat for a good 7 hours. I have an extended warranty but i dont think it covers diagnostic.

    • mohawkrog profile image

      mohawkrog 5 months ago

      All the fluids are good. When this first happened I took it to the shop and they replaced a leaking gasket. I thought that would take care of it. Then a week later it did it again. As I shut the car off and drove it again no problem. Again it only happens every 20th start or so.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi mohawkrog,

      How does your transmission fluid look? is it pink and clean? Where is the level at? When was the last time you replaced the transmission fluid? Let me know, thanks.

    • mohawkrog profile image

      mohawkrog 5 months ago

      I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX v6 automatic. Every once in a while maybe every 20 times I start my car the transmission slips as I drive the car. If I pull over and stop the car and restart the symptoms are gone and the car drives fine. Any advice would be appreciated.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi C Smythe,

      So I assume the shift console doesn't have a drive/ overdrive option?

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      C Smythe 5 months ago

      Just got a 2010 Hundai Accent. Love car, hate the way the overdrive works. I want it to default off and only activate when I choose it so. If impossible could I install a kill switch to serve this purpose?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Alezor,

      If you have no response from the engine when accelerating, I don't think the CVT is the problem, if the RPM rise but the car doesn't move, that may be a CVT issue

      Hi Crystal,

      I recommend keeping the fluid full, not even a little low because it sounds like you're losing pressure when accelerating. It may be a good idea to have an Aamco transmission shop or any transmission shop do a pressure test, it may cost a few bucks, but it may be worth it.

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      crystal 5 months ago

      I have a 2001 ford windstar se sport. Think my transmission is slipping a little. when it tries to go into third gear the rpms go up and down but i dont lose power and the van acts like it is hesitating. I have no engine lights showing and my fluid doesnt smell burnt and is red and clear. What could be going on? Have a small leak in lines at radiator but fluid only slightly low. Please help this is only vehicle I have.

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      alexor13 6 months ago

      My car equipped with a Nissan Xtronic cvt transmission, when it's in a urban drive, the car works as usual. but, when I am on the highway for about 20-30 minutues, speeding at 130-140 km/hr the acceleration becomes lamed and experiencing a delay acceleration. During this, a whining sound which i believed to be from the transmission occurred. I tried once to keep on driving, the acceleration has come to a haul at idling. Floored the pedal and it has no response. Stop the car for a good 30 minutes and it works perfectly . Problem will persist again if speeding again.

      I had checked thoroughly on the fuel supply, air intake and exhaust line. I had replaced all the sensors and all suspected parts, but the problem still persist.

      Now, the only thing is the cvt transmission. Will it cause such a problem?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 6 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi John,

      When a standard transmission slips out of gear, usually it's caused by either a bent shift fork or a worn synchronizer collar. Most likely an internal repair so if you can live with it, you'll save a few bucks.

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      saxanyone 6 months ago

      2003 Mazda tribute, standard transmission, 5 speed, with 4 wheel drive, replaced clutch, slipping out of 3rd gear, sometimes,

      usually o.k. under accelearator power.

      ideas?

      thanks

      John

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 6 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Julie, and you're welcome :)

      The vehicle is getting old, but it may just need some lube on the pivot points of the clutch system like at the pedal hinge and at the slave cylinder where it meets the clutch lever/fork. If you don't notice the clutch slipping, most likely it not, but... the throw out bearing may be hanging up on it's shaft. I know you probably don't know what i'm talking about, but maybe you can ask your mechanic to lube these pivot points and see if it helps.

      If you want to test your clutch for slippage, try staring out in first gear up to 10 mph, then switch to 3rd gear, once your clutch pedal is out all the way in 3rd, push the gas pedal to the floor. If the clutch is slipping, then it should slip under these conditions. Let me know what happens, thanks :)

    • profile image

      Julie 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      My in-laws bought me a 5-speed manual 98 Honda Accord LX a month ago with approx. 125,000 miles--when they gave it to me, no dash lights were on and engaging the clutch and shifting was butter-smooth.

      A week after I got it, the Check Engine light came on for a day or two but then went out. At the time, I figured it was the gas cap and forgot about it.

      Two weeks later, Check Engine light is back on and I think something's up with the transmission/clutch: clutch is squeaky when pushed down and coming back up and 1st-4th gears seem a bit resistant when clutch is engaged and I'm trying to shift into them and there's a clunking noise as I'm shifting. Doesn't seem to happen in 5th.

      I took it to a Honda dealer on Sat. for an early oil change and asked them to run the code for the Check Engine light and could they please check my clutch fluid since shifting seemed a bit "rough" of late. They said the clutch fluid was fine but service advisor said the tech asked him if I'd mentioned anything about slipping (I hadn't). They told me the clutch was going and that to repair it would involve completely removing the transmission and would run from $600-$1,500 and that the catalytic converter also needed to be replaced at a quote of $1,258.

      I don't know much about cars, but I do have a reliable mechanic to whom I go for anything other than an oil or bulb change but he hasn't called me back yet to set appointment. Meanwhile, even though they said the clutch fluid was fine, ever since I got the car back, the shifting seems smoother although the clunking noises are still there.

      Does what the dealer said above sound like it's above-board? I'm interested in any thoughts you have because now we need to figure out if it's worth putting $x into to repair or if we shouldn't bother.

      Thank you very much for all you do for us non-automotively-oriented civilians out here!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 6 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gunther,

      If you're not smelling clutch, it's possible you have oil on the pp plate and disc causing the issue.

      Hi Irene,

      If the transmission light is not on or flashing, most likely it's an internal pressure problem, there are so many possibilities of what's causing it it would be tough to guess.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 6 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi MS,

      You need to replace the trans, it has too many problem and they are internal.

      Hi John,

      Most likely the master cylinder is leaking inside the vehicle at the pedal rod, or if it the brake master you're talking about, it could be leaking inside the brake booster. Let me know if this helps.

      Hi Ralph,

      It would be wise to change it to a thinner oil like the manual indicates, it will make for a smoother shift.

      Hi Belinda,

      It sounds like your trans is stuck in 2 gears at the same time, but that's almost impossible with a standard trans unless something is binding on the shaft internally. This may need a tare down.

      Hi Jerry,

      Did you happen to use Honda Genuine transmission fluid? If not, I recommend changing it back to Honda fluid ASAP. For whatever reason, Honda transmissions do not like anything but genuine Honda trans fluid.

      Hi Dave,

      Is the trans slipping or is the engine bogging?

    • profile image

      Dave 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie

      Great article

      I have a 2003 Ford Focus sedan.

      2 days ago, I got the exchange power steering rack and power steering pump changed as the old one was getting worn out.

      Today, I had trouble going uphill and needed to change gear to cntd driving. This never happen to me.

      Please advise

    • profile image

      Jerry 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2008 honda accord sedan v6 with lows mileage however the transmission clunks when I put it into drive. It shifts very hard for the first 3 gears when I start moving from a complete stop. Also the downshifts for the first 3 gears are very rough. I have already changed the transmission fluid but it seems to not have helped. Please let me know what I should do. Thanks

    • profile image

      Jerry 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2008 honda accord sedan v6 with lows mileage however the transmission clunks when I put it into drive. It shifts very hard for the first 3 gears when I start moving from a complete stop. Also the downshifts for the first 3 gears are very rough. I have already changed the transmission fluid but it seems to not have helped. Please let me know what I should do. Thanks

    • profile image

      Belinda 6 months ago

      We have a 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 manual transmission. We have had no noticeable issues until 3 days ago. Started truck and put it into reverse to back out of driveway and it crawled but did not notice the RPMS go excessively high. Put it into 1st and started to take off and again it crawled and still did not notice the RPMS go excessively high. When I got it up to speed to put it into 2nd gear it then ran normally. 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th gear have no issues. Its just when reversing or starting to take off in 1st gear that it acts like it has no power. So I read your blog here and out of curiosity we did the 3rd gear take off test to see if the clutch was slipping. It rolled and continued to drive it did not stall when releasing the clutch pedal on take off in 3rd gear. The truck does have 200,000 miles on it and to our knowledge the clutch has never been replaced. About 1000 miles ago we did replace the clutch master cylinder and slave. Trying to figure out if we are looking at a transmission issue, clutch or pressure plate issue. Any help is greatly appreciated.

    • profile image

      Ralph 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I am experiencing hard down shifting from 3rd gear to second gear with my Montero 2013 manual 4x4. Just changed the gear oil recently but I found out that the gear oil the mechanic used was SAE 90. The Montero owners manual indicated gear oil to be SAE 75w85. Do I have to change the gear oil again? Thanks.

      Ralph

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      Jason 7 months ago

      Hello Eddie, just bought a 2010 Kia Soul and it's losing brake/clutch fluid observed no puddles or leaks. But I noticed the master cylinder cap was extended, reset, added fluid and after a short drive observed fluid loss and compensator under cap extended once again. No leaks no puddles observed. Master cylinder, clutch cylinder, clutch slave and lines are all dry, no moisture detected on any of the brake calipers. Where do I go from here. Thank you... John

    • profile image

      John 7 months ago

      Hello Eddie, just bought a 2010 Kia Soul and it's losing brake/clutch fluid observed no puddles or leaks. But I noticed the master cylinder cap was extended, reset, added fluid and after a short drive observed fluid loss and compensator under cap extended once again. No leaks no puddles observed. Master cylinder, clutch cylinder, clutch slave and lines are all dry, no moisture detected on any of the brake calipers. Where do I go from here. Thank you... John

    • profile image

      Ireneaga 7 months ago

      I have a 2003 Honda Pilot, EXL, Automatic. Two years ago experienced Pilot (119,000 miles) not accelerating onto freeway. Engine Check engine light constantly on. Honda Service could not troubleshoot problem and ended up at a Transmission Shop that replaced various Solenoid assemblies, however this was only a temporary fix.

      The poor acceleration issue continued, the second Transmission shop pulled code po733,Rebuilt Transmission (overhaul kit, 3rd clutch kit, torque converter, bushing kit, center case & ATF multi) which

      cost $4k. Ouch. Since January 2016 experiencing intermittent transmission problem

      in Reverse shifting to Drive, the Pilot gear is not engaging immediately and lurches forward with a loud sound. I feel very unsafe & have lost confidence in driving my beloved Honda Pilot. Any thoughts as to what is going on? Will I have to spend $$ to replace my transmission?

      Thanks for your help! Irene A.

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      Gunther 7 months ago

      I have a 2000 Nissan Altima, Standard Tranny. tranny slipps bad at low RPM,s (below 2500-3000) then will start to pull after that,when I try to accelerate in any gear when I am driving below 3000 rpm the revs will go up to 5000 with no noticeable acceleration, there is no smell of clutch slippage,,is my torque converter gone,if so is it worth fixing ,(car is worth maybe 800 without this problem)

    • profile image

      ms 7 months ago

      i have a problem with honda civic 1996 (exi) automatic transmission.when i start the car when its engine is cool,the reverse gear work a little,but in hmshoaib720.ms@gmail.comsot condition the revrse gear does not work,and also 4th dear is not working,should i change gear oil or gears need to repair?please any one can help me?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 7 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Israel, not sure if you got it fixed yet. How does the transmission fluid look? Is it dark and dirty or is it pink? Did you change the fluid? Are you checking the fluid level on flat ground with the engine off?

    • profile image

      Israel 7 months ago

      Good job you're doing. Please got issues with my Honda 2006 Pilot transmission. Car stopped moving all of a sudden though the engine revs while i hear a funny humming sound. Got it packed and got my mechanic to check the following day alas drove some meters without issues but decided to change the gear oil and filter using ATF. Unfortunately the problem is back after driving some blocks, the gear shifts normally from P to D2 except D1 but when in D or R it doesn't move. I've scanned but no codes. please what would you advice to check or work on.

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      Eddie Carrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Alex,

      It sounds like you're losing pressure inside the transmission and it's starting to slip. First Check your transmission fluid level, check the owners manual on the proper way to check it. If the level is OK, I recommend having the filter and fluid changed first, sometime a filter can be clogged and will cause a restriction. Let me know if this helps. Sorry so late with the response, life can get real overwhelming when moving into a new house.

      Hi Mitchel,

      What is the problem, symptoms? Manual or auto trans?

      Hi Robert,

      Either your syncro's are damaged or you have a bent shit fork, at least that what it sounds like. I doubt a fluid change would help.

      Hi Steve,

      No, they are two totally different components and are only connected by a drive shaft.

      Hi Don,

      Dirt and debris got into the transmission, it will need to be taken apart completely. You're probably better off getting a remanufactured or salvage yard trans at this point because even the valve body is contaminated at this point, sorry.

    • dondodge profile image

      Don Kennedy 8 months ago from Te Kao / Kaitaia / New Zealand

      Hi, we went 4x4ing through mud and water and noticed the Trans started slipping later in the day, eventually only getting 1st or Reverse but had to let it sit for 20mins or so mins to do so, At home we Found that the Trans Dipstick was missing, Checking the Trans level we found it Pink due to water and or other contaminants getting in, We Flushed the trans with new ATF, Refilled, checked level, let it idle then Ran it through the gears for quite a while and alas No Success, Contemplating we may need to do a Filter Kit change or is it a rebuild? ,,your thoughts appreciated...Regards Don.. NZ

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      Steve 8 months ago

      Hi eddie. Can a bad rear differential be at all the cause of a transmission slipping?

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      Robert 8 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I drive a 2002 Chevy Cavalier with a manual transmission. i can shift into 3rd 4th 5th and reverse without a problem but when i try to shift into first it will not go at all, and when i shift into second, it feels like the car jumps into gear sometimes while other times it will go in smoothly. If i am already moving, downshifting into 2nd normally goes smoothly and i wont have a problem, and downshifting into first will give that jumping feeling and a grinding sound when i get into gear. Is this a possible fork break? syncro malfunction? worn gears? or could it have to deal with transmission fluid? I honestly have no clue as to what it is so your help would be greatly appreciated! I have just changed out my gear shift in the hopes that this would fix it because my old shifter case was damaged. Please help me, Thanks.

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      Mitchel 8 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      So what do you think is the problem with my Isuzu Bighorn? I also checked the atf and leaks if there's any but it's all normal, Do you think it's a worn clutch disk or transmission solenoid. Thanks

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      Mitchel 8 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      So what do you think is the problem with my Isuzu Bighorn? I already check the fluid level of transmission and leaks if there's any but its all normal. Do you think its a worn clutch disc or transmission solenoid? Thanks

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      alex 8 months ago

      Hi eddie I know nothing about cars so I hope you can help me out. So I have a 2001 GMC Sierra 1500. now when I put it in reverse gear sometimes it doesn't want to reverseit feels like it's in neutral but it's not it's in reverse. so sometimes I have to wait put it in park and tried again and sometimes it still won't work.and before that I drove it on the freeway and I was trying to go 60 miles or more and it just stopped accelerating and it slowed down so I pulled to the side and turned it off and tried it again butit did not work if I would past 20 miles per hour it wouldn't really go.I had one person tell me it was a transmission another person said It was slipping. now I want to take it to a mechanic but I don't have money for it right now and a lot of times some mechanics don't fix it or just lie about what it is. yes it's really hard nowadays to find a good mechanic that is sincere around here so I'm hoping that you can help me out maybe just a little bit Offerman answers would be fine if not I really appreciate your time.oh and I wanted to know if you do know what's wrong with it how much would it cost

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      Kusal 8 months ago

      Hi, I have a Nissan Micra 1999 with CVT auto gear. I drove through few puddles 2 days ago, since then gear is not working i.e. nothing happening when I put it into R or D or S , is this slipping? I never had any problem before. What could be the possible cause and cure? Please help me.

      Thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Maurice, sorry about the long delay, I just moved into a new home and I haven't had much time to answer questions. What you describe is a skip in the engine, most likely a spark plug wire or spark plug. If you haven't already fixed the issue, try a new plug first then a new wire. If neither fix the issue, it may be something more serious.

      Hi Alex,

      The noise you're hearing is most likely the input shaft bearing at the front of the transmission. The only way to replace it is to r&r the trans and tare it down to the case. The bearing sits at the bottom of the input shaft.

      Hi Burnsie,

      The sound you're hearing is caused by air pockets in the coolant. Some car's do not have this sound and other cars you can't seem to get rid of the sound. It doesn't harm anything or cause problems. Hope this helps.

      Hi James,

      I wish I had a solid answer for you, but I don't. Your better off having a transmission expert test it for a couple hundred dollars, then to take a chance by throwing parts at it.

      Hi Mitchel,

      The reverse gear is usually a direct drive gear with no clutch pac, so even if the the transmission is blown in all forward gears, it would still drive in reverse. Hope this helps.

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      Mitchel 8 months ago

      Hi Sir Eddie,

      My Isuzu Bighorn 3.1 diesel automatic transmission wont run forward even if you accelerate at high rpm but when i shift to reverse it runs normal. I was thinking that its a worn clutch disc or a the transmission solenoid only.

      Is it possible that if you have a sliding clutch the reverse shift will not be affected?

      Thanks

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      Mitchel 8 months ago

      My Isuzu bighorn 3.1 diesel automatic transmission sudden slipping. The problem is when i put to drive it does not move even if i accelerate too high but when i put to reverse i moves normal..i dont think that the problem is a sliding clutch because it moves normal on reverse. What do you think would be the problem? Is it the transmission solenoid? Because it happens when i start the engine for a few minute then suddenly i smell a burned clutch then when i put to drive the car wont move? Can you help me diagnose the problem before i go to mechanic. Thanks

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      James Rrrr 8 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 1991 nissan pathfinder given to me with a faulty transmission. The auto trans wont shift into second. I have first and reverse. The atf is dirty and smelling burnt. I checked the fluid level and it looks overfill.

      I know that i need to flush the trans and change the filter. And possibly change the 1st, 2nd solenoid. So my question is, should i change the 1st, 2nd shift solenoid at the same time as the flush? Could it be the ecu, o2, or other sensors? There is no codes to be seen as i checked.

      Being a free car, i don't want to spend a lot of dollars on it. Its older and has alot of miles on it.

      Any advice would be appreciated.

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      Burnsie 9 months ago

      Wondering if you know what causes the percolating sound in heater right after engine starts up. Thank you

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      Alex 9 months ago

      Dogg_dogg18@yahoo.com

      hey Ed!

      GREAT article!

      Here's my problem. 92 civic Lx 4 banger standard tran 250k miles

      When I get my first & second gear up to roughly 2k rpm it sounds like it's grinding. Doesn't happen in 3,4, or 5th gear as much or a lot lighter.. It sounds perfect, a smooth vrooooooom, then get real rough & sounds like grinding or high revving sounding. Any ideas?

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      Rahul 9 months ago

      Hi,

      I have Toyota Innova 2.5V Model, Since last 1 Week, i am facing a problem of Gear Slipping. I visited a local guarage, they suggested me to change the gear box....

      Please provide me your solution.

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      Gary Comer 9 months ago

      My transmission went out with 11500 miles on it, Is it ok to drive it 30 miles to get it repaired with a rebuilt transmission, it is a 1993 ford automatic F150 pickup truck, 2 wheel drive?

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      joshua 9 months ago

      92 accord at steady speed goes at a sertan rpm and jumps up about 500rpms tjen catches kinda feels like slipping almost but mph stays the same replaced capasitor in TCU.

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      ugh. car troubles 9 months ago

      Hello,

      I just purchased a 2002 kia sportage and over the past few days it has:

      - Made clicking sound (at first I thought it was paper rattling from air coming out of the vents). Was intermittent. Then for one day was consistent. Now doesn't happen.

      - had a strange smell when accelerating. Not strong, just light burning type. Am still not positive the smell was from my car as it was so faint and was only at first acceleration from a stop.

      - latest is a whooshing sound (sounds like from the engine) in first gear. Starts fine from second and it reverses fine. But feels "off" in other gears too.

      - check engine light is on

      Thoughts? I'm going to make an appointment for it to get looked at and I'm not driving it until it has been looked at, I'm trying to prepare myself for what this might end up costing.

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      Mark Medrano 9 months ago

      Hey Eddie, I've got a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 42re transmission in it automatic 5-speed. I have a transmission pan leak and and everytime I drive it it will hesitate once in awhile at high speeds making tactics & my battery gauge drope then backnowledge up. I imagine that's a slip and then power loss but when I'm at stop signs and street lights my engine will just shut off. Could the two sensors inside the transmission be the problem because I just had it rebuilt a year ago.

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      Sean 10 months ago

      Hello I have a 95 Plymouth voyager 3.3lt Automatic that leaks tranny fluid possibly from front pump area not sure however it leaks about a quart every 1500 miles anyway I checked it one day I had an hour trip and was in a hurry it should had been fine the engine was normal running temp and said there was no fluid at all it was running fine but still freaked me out anyway I put one quart in and checked believing it was 2 or more low and then it was just barely above full. I had been driving for an hour at the time and was 45 min away from any supply store and had nothing to remove fluid so I drove to store and got a tube and took out half a quart anyway it still runs however every now and again I feel something faint but can't make it out except for today it slipped once and it was a half quart low which I added and haven't driven yet but could you tell me what kind of damage I may be looking at and is it possible to save tranny at this point also fluid may have a slight burnt smell now but want info I cannot find before changing fluid it has 200,000 miles and the person I purchased it off of lied about maintaining the vehicle I have put much more then it's worth into it but too much to give up now motor runs actually everything is in excellent condition other then tranny of course.

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      thomas 10 months ago

      is it ok that the rpms go between 2 and 3

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      Maurice Oduor 10 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      In relation to the Honda CRV above, it has 150k miles on it. I did the Stall RPM test and the RPM maxed at 2500 didn't go above 2500 in all gears D4, D3, D2, D1 and R. Now am confused, everybody (mechanics i have visited) says i install a new transmission, except one guy who suggested that I should first check engine to ensure that it actually is performing as expected before rushing to trans. Any ideas would be much appreciated.

      By, the way am from Uganda, East Africa and I really appreciate you sharing this info.

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      Rushane 10 months ago

      I put my car in gear and disengage the clutch and it won't move. What Could Be The Cause of that?

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      Maurice Oduor 10 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thanks for the info very enlightening. I have a honda crv 1995, japanese import. Recently I did ATF fluid change using Dextron-III (honda ATF not available here and D-III is the best we have) from there when i accelerate from a stop on D4 gear it really struggles to move and once it reaches 25-30KPH, the second gear engages and it then moves on well. The rest of the gears have good power upto the 4th (torque lockup).

      When I start the car in D1 gear acceleration seem to have more power than in D4. Everything works well. Climbing hills from dead stop is a really struggle and D4 can't manage, D1 will climb but under extreme strain. My local mechanics are advising to change the transmission - some good $$$$, but I was thinking maybe its something else.

      When I start the car and in idling and i disconnect the spark plug cables one at a time, there is one plug that has no effect as in the car doesn't appear to want to go off when it is disconnected. The rest three would behave like the car wants to go off. I don't know if there is a connection.

      Regards.

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      David Ortega 10 months ago

      Hello. I have a 2002 jeep wrangler that feels like im going over rumvle strips when going from 1st to 2nd gear. It only happens if i accelerate faster than normal. Any suggestions?

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      Sam 10 months ago

      We have a 2004 Hyndia Accent. Yesterday while driving down the highway we heard a loud noise more when I would excellerate, it was like a grinding noise. And when I would apply the gas, it felt like there were air pockets but the car would still excellerate. We have the vehicle serviced for regular maintenance when due & take it in for any additional concerns. What does it sound like? The noise just started & I don't know what it is. I hope to hear what your thoughts are about our new noise. Thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 10 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ashley, and thanks :)

      No, that's the way you're suppose to do it, when you're riding the biting point is when you cause excessive wear and tear. Good questions :)

      Hi Diana,

      I would start by checking the transmission fluid level and condition, if everything looks OK, find a reputable mechanic, or bring it to a shop that specializes in transmission repairs. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

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      Diana 10 months ago

      YESTERDAY HAD A MECHANIC LOOK AT MY 07 FORD FUSION SE DUE TO TRANS SLIPPING. NOW HE IS A MECHANIC FOR FRONTIER DODGE!! WELL I MAY BE A BLONDE WITH BLUE EYES BUT BY FAR I AM NOT STUPID!!! THE BOOTS ON MY FRONT TIRES NOR MY STRUTS HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH MY TRANSMISSION. SO JUST SAYING BE WISE N GET AN HONEST MECHANIC!!

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      Ashley jenkin 10 months ago

      hi eddie great site btw!. when im at a junction waiting for traffic to pass i always have my clutch pressed right in and in first gear waiting for a space so i can pull out, is that doing any damage to the clutch? i dont mean im riding the biting point, i mean the clutch pressed to the floor.

      Thanks

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      Harry Leroy 11 months ago

      Oh thanks! It's definitely never gotten worse. It did improve for a while, however, after we added some of that transmission fix. But yeah, 2 years, 20K miles, and it's the only symptom.

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      Eddie Carrara 11 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kathryn,

      What you describe doesn't sound like a problem, more like a characteristic of that transmission. Older Honda transmissions had a similar issue, it was a slow delay and a soft engagement, but it was just the way the transmission worked. I think if it's been doing it for 20k miles and it's never gotten worse, I really would worry about it. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

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      Harry Leroy 11 months ago

      Dear Eddie,

      Thanks for being so generous with your time and knowledge! Hopeful you can give us a suggestion. I've been reading random transmission information pages online for a couple of weeks now, trying to make a decision on our used Subaru (automatic transmission, bought it used 2 years ago at 60,000 miles, and we've added another 20,000). We're going to have to do a catalytic converter repair soon, or trade in the car and go with something else. Happy to do the repair, but if the transmission is likely to need expensive work in the near future, we'll probably go with plan B.

      Again, the car is old--2001 Subaru Legacy--but it only has about 85,000 miles on it. When we bought it two years ago, there was a short delay before the drive gear would engage after starting the car. The problem temporarily solved by adding Lucas Oil transmission fix. There doesn't seem to be a leak, however, and our trusted mechanic, who has flushed the system twice and changed the transmission filter once, has no ideas for us. The problem isn't bad, and for two years now it has NOT gotten worse, nor is there any other problem--meaning there are no slips or hesitation at higher speeds! No funny noises, no other symptoms that we've noticed. I will try again on my own to see whether there's a leak, but is it possible for a transmission to have just this one symptom for 2 years and 20,000 miles? If it were an expensive problem, should we expect it to have gotten worse?

      Many thanks for any thoughts (haven't seen that anyone has asked this particular question, but apologies if I missed it).

      Kathryn

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      Eddie Carrara 12 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kb, check the cooling lines going to the radiator, it sounds like you may have a leak in that area. Let me know what you find, thanks.

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      kb help me 12 months ago

      I have a 1977 Lincoln continental c6 tranny a lot of fluid leaked out had the car only for a few months driven about 30 miles since purchase was not leaking before but now will not grab any gears looks like its leaking close to drivers side front tire

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      Donna 12 months ago

      I have a 06 madza tribute 4 cylinder I've replaced cluch master cylinder an slave cylinder now my transmission light is coming on an off does it need to be bleed more ? Or what could it be oh an I just has motor rebuilt

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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi John,

      I had the same problem with my 2015 F150, when I brought it in for the first oil change I asked if there was a software update for the the transmission control unit and there was, my problem is 80% better but it still happens a little on really steep hills.

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      john 14 months ago

      I just purchased a new gmc Sierra 2500 HD . I noticed going up the steep hill at my girlfriends the truck started to shimmy up the hill . I down shift by giving it some gas pedal then it shifts up and starts to shimmy again . It won't downshift on its own it just stayes in gear until I give it more pedal to down shift . What's going on with my brand new gmc that has 1150 miles .

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      Eddie Carrara 15 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lori,

      I recommend checking the transmission fluid level first, check the owners manual first on the proper way to check the transmission fluid level. Let me know what you find, thanks.

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      Lori 15 months ago

      Hi! We finally purchased a second car over the summer! I decided that I wanted a VW Jetta ~ bought a 2002 with lo mileage low n behold it's got a list of problems! The car has been driving fine up until recently! Went to drive it to the store on the highway everything was fine until I got home stopped to check mail at mailbox get back in to drive car and park it and it would not move at all, finally put it on reverse then it barely moved enough for me to park it! Please help! I spent over $4,000 and have only had the car 5 months!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 15 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi JPeer,

      Sounds like maybe the pressure plate is having an issue, with the car being that old and sitting for a while, it would be a good idea to freshen up the clutch with new parts.

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      JPeer 15 months ago

      I purchased a 93 Supra with a twin disk OS Giken clutch. When I first picked it up it would pull hard (with 750whp) in 1st thru 4th but in 5th or 6th it would flash the rpms like it was in neutral at any engine speed. Drive the car back 770 miles and it got better to the point that it would only occasionally slip in high gear. The clutch doesn't fully disengage until the last inch of upward pedal travel. The car sat for 9 months before i bought it. Any ideas what this could be?

      Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rocky,

      It sounds like your pickup screen is getting clogged as the transmission warms up. I recommend changing the filter and clean the pickup screen to start and see if that helps. The problem is your loosing pressure in the transmission, now you just need to figure out why. It could be a pump, o-ring, gasket, etc, starting with the filter is the cheapest test. Keep me posted on what happens Rock, thanks.

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      rocky 16 months ago

      We have a 1988 Chevy pickup truck, with automatic transmission, when it warms up the transmission slips when it shifts, and reverse stops working. You can turn the truck off then right back on, the reverse and shifting starts working again, until it gets hot again. We checked the kickdown cable, changed the fluid. And we put a transmission coolent on it. We haven't checked the transmission filter, but other than that what could it be?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi ljuarez ,

      I recommend having the fluid level and condition checked first. It may be possible to change the fluid and get some more life out of it. Let me know if you can afford a fluid change, if so, let me know how it drives after, thanks :)

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      ljuarez 16 months ago

      I have a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE V6 A/T with 105k miles. At around 100k, the gears would slip around 40-45mph. It would try to shift, but just rev, then eventually grab. This problem has not been AS prevalent recently (mostly just in the mornings, when the engine is still cold), BUT now around 40mph, the vehicle shakes--it feels as if I am driving a M/T and the clutch isn't grabbing--it kind of vibrates. Any idea what could be causing this? I cannot afford to have transmission replaced. Thanks! :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Awesome Edem, this is great information for other readers so thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it :)

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      Edem Boy 16 months ago

      Hi Eddie, tends out it was due to a wrong type of ATF we got a different brand from a different dealer and voila now the vehicle moves. Thanks

      so much

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jewelrunner,

      There are a lot of things that can cause a situation like that. Is the check engine light on?

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      jewelrunner 17 months ago

      I have a 2003 Mazda Protege, automatic.

      Sometimes, when the car is set in drive but I am applying the brakes for an extended period (such as at a red light, or stuck in traffic) the car will start vibrating, and sometimes it even shuts off (not the battery, but the engine). Then I have to shift into park, turn the car off, turn it back on, and shift back into drive! I'm sure this has pissed off some people behind me at red lights, understandably.

      Also, once I start accelerating after a braking period, there is usually a delayed acceleration. The car stutters for a second, and then lunges forward a couple of times. Once it gets up to speed, however, there are no issues.

      Based on what I have read on this page and from other online research, my semi-educated guess is that the spark plugs are causing the problem. I am certainly crossing my fingers that is it the spark plugs, as opposed to there being something wrong with the tranny.

      I just wanted to describe my specific situation to see what you think! Thank you so much for running these hubs, they are a godsend for mechanically disinclined folks such as myself!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      And this only started after the mechanic remove and cleaned the filter? I think the filter is not installed completely, but it's just a guess.

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      Edem Boy 17 months ago

      At first we just drained and filled., went to see a mechanic who removed the filter washed it and installed it back as one was not readily available. Two days later thw car won't budge

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Did you just drain and fill the transmission or did you replace the filter as well?

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      Edem Boy 17 months ago

      Thanks very much, this all started when we changed the ATF

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Edem Boy,

      Nice of you to do your homework for your dad and brother :) If the neutral light is blinking, you most likely have a transmission issue with a stored code. You may need to find someone who can retrieve the code from the cars computer, this will tell you what is causing the issue.

      I recommend checking the transmission fluid level and condition first because if it's low on fluid or it's very dirty, it will cause all kinds of problems. Let me know if this helps.

    • profile image

      Edem Boy 17 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I do not yet know how to drive but the information here has helped me to also be able to contribute something meaniful when my dad n brothers are talking. Thank you

      We have a mitsubishi montero 2002 automatic, when driving approacing 40mph there is this vibration under tyethe as if u have passing over a ramp. Recently the transmission seems to be slipping while driving the vehicle will suddenly brake with the drive indicator light dimming and the neutral light will start blinking. Please what might be the cause of this. Any contribution is deeply accepted.

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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Ronnie that's great!! Thanks so much for coming back to update me on your situation, the information is priceless.

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      Ronnie 17 months ago

      an update to the repairs... I didn't mention before that the oil and filter has never been changed with 198,000 miles. I changed the shift Solenoid Valves 1 ac delco for $12 online and 1 $28 one from the local auto store (store was a 'need it now, not wait for one to be shipped') But my Tahoe runs like a dream!!

    • profile image

      Ronnie 17 months ago

      Thank you for your response. I will do as you suggest

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ronnie,

      If you didn't have any problems before the filter and fluid change, you may not have installed the filter properly, if it's not seated completely it can lose pressure and cause all kinds of problems.I recommend going back in to check your work. Hope this helps and keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

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      Ronnie 17 months ago

      Hi, I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe with 195,000 miles. I thought it was time to change the trans oil and filter. After doing this the gears R321 all work perfectly but Drive seams to start out and stay in high gear, not shifting down at the slow speed when first engaging. After driving a short mini drive 1/2 block and turned it off the hot popping sound from the trans pan was heard... Any ideas?

    • profile image

      Ronnie 17 months ago

      Hi, I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe with 195,000 miles. I thought it was time to change the trans oil and filter. After doing this the gears R321 all work perfectly but Drive seams to start out and stay in high gear, not shifting down at the slow speed when first engaging. After driving a short mini drive 1/2 block and turned it off the hot popping sound from the trans pan was heard... Any ideas?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      You're very welcome Arjun, If you ever need any automotive advice, I'll be right here and do my best to answer your questions :)

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      arjun joshi 17 months ago

      Thank you very much Eddie .

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 18 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Arjun,

      I had no idea people would be talking about me in India, I'm glad I can help people all over the world :)

      Synchro rings will NOT cause a transmission to slip, synchro rings help keep the transmission in gear, it locks the two moving gears together like a detente would. Slipping is usually caused by lack of pressure, either by the pump, damaged or worn o-rings or gaskets. Slipping can also be caused by very contaminated fluid or low fluid. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you Arjun, thanks.

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      arjun joshi 18 months ago

      Hey eddie...this is arjun joshi from india. i have mahindra bolero camper gold pickup van. Tell me something about syncroizer ring type gearbox. I have some slipping problem from couple of days. Today my mechanic checked and said to change that rings and dog catcher. Now what should i do. I haven't change gear fluid till today, as my car is 2 year old...i heard of you today from a auto part retailer that your are a big manufacturer of type of transmissions. its so nice of you for giving us your advices. thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 18 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi flbeachbum03,

      It sounds like the clutch pressure switch is starting to fail or you have some debris in the transmission that is starting to clog the filter/screen. Have you had the transmission fluid changed regularly at it's normal or recommended interval? Let me know, thanks.

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      flbeachbum03 18 months ago

      Hi, I have a automatic trans 2007 elantra with 159000 miles. The first problem started about 2 weeks ago when I was driving and my car went into neutral and then I put it back in drive and seemed fine till I got home then the engine light came on and the code read po700. I cleared the code and took a chance thinking maybe I hit the shifter myself. I drive 70 miles a day and was fine for 2 weeks till today. I was driving and the car bucked and sounded like I was going to drop the engine then it was ok. I got gas and drove about 1/4 mile then it seemed to feel like neutral then the engine light came on. I went to aamco but they can't look at till Saturday so it is in my driveway till then. Any ideas?

      Thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 18 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jenn,

      The power steering fluid is probably leaking internally into the steering rack end boots. The fluid will eventually leak out, but I think for now it's just pooling up inside the boots.

      I know you live in Florida but you still need to use antifreeze, it protects the engine from corrosion (rust and failing parts), but it also raises the boiling point of the cooing system. Your water could just be evaporating because you do not have a 50/50 mix of coolant. I recommend adding a gallon of coolant to the system and see if the fluid level drops. Also keep in mind that the coolant level is always fluctuating between hot and cold levels, so always check the coolant level when the engine is cold before you start the engine. Let me know if you have other questions :)

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      Jennifer 19 months ago

      Ok i have checked the steering fluid (used owner manual to make sure its right) I also had the coolant fluid filled. My transmossion fluid is a little overfilled (which i hear is just as bad as being low, what damages would it cause if overfilled?) My oils is good too. My puzzling question, i see no leaks of any sorts on the ground BUT my coolant and my steering fluid keeps dropping and going low. Ive asked what could be causing it and ive been told that steering fluid could be leaking into coolant but why would my coolant be low now? I do have noises squealing when i turn wheel and even at time when I dont so when i check the steering fluid its low AGAIN! Ive had to fill it with over a quart over the course of a week or two. As for the coolant its been about 3 months since it was checked bc i apparently had a broken water pump, when i looked in resevoir the coolant color was good and swirling, now its so low i can barely see it. (I will be filling it again today) so after all that my question is...Why? Why are both fluid frequently getting low and showing no other signs of leaks? Ive looked everywhere. Very FUSTRATED!! I have a 1999 ford taurus that has just over 103k miles on it. HELP!! O and I live in florida now, and have heard that people hear use WATER and not coolant which seemed to be the case when i had the water pump fixed, other than it rusting everthing from the inside out, what else can it do and what signs if any can i see or hear? This car has been a nightmare since i got screwed into buying it out of deseration amd having my gf there telling them i need to drive off lot with a car. (The dealer was a "buy here pay here place with no warrenty and buy as is" HELP HELP HELP!!!

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      Eddie Carrara 19 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marvin,

      There is no filter on that transmission, you can just drain and fill the trans, but make sure you use genuine Honda Transmission fluid otherwise you could make the sifting issue worse. Let me know if you have any questions, thanks.

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      Marvin 19 months ago

      I have a Honda Odisey.Transmission slips and jerks when it gets hot.How do I change the Filter and Fluid.

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      Eddie Carrara 20 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Naddy,

      I recommend checking the transmission fluid level first, hopefully it just low, but you may have a leak inside the transmission cooler located at the bottom of the radiator. If your transmission fluid level is high and a milky pink, most likely you have coolant in the transmission. Lets start there and see what you find.

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      naddyLloyd 20 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 1997 Volvo S90 and we got this car with a busted radiator hoes( easy fix) and we fixed the hose and was cleaning the engine area where all the leaked nasty fluid was at with water. The kid that owned it must have put something in the radiator to get it to stop leaking before he sold it to us, cause he couldn't fix it. Once we fixed the hose it was driving fine but after we cleaned the engine with the car running, now the transmission won't go into any gear. if we put it in drive and rev the engine high it will go forward a bit but we can't drive it at all. The check engine light is now on and the other day the arrow that indicates "wet/winter mode" was flashing. Found a way to get that off but it's a signal that there is something wrong with the transmission. We figured that much but it had to happened when we cleaned the engine of the nasty stuff that spued all over it Due to the radiator. Please help, and I hope it's just something electrical. I have looked all over the internet to try to find out what we did and if we can fix it! Please help us.... Thanks

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      brea alicia 20 months ago

      Thanks!

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      Eddie Carrara 20 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Brea,

      At this point I recommend bringing it to a transmission shop to have them diagnose it. It may be just a solenoid of something simple and not so costly, hopefully.

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      brea alicia 20 months ago

      Hi, I recently bought a 97 dodge caravan its at about 120,000 miles now. A month or two ago i was pulling out of the driveway when it jerked a bit and i noticed all lights came on check engine, abs, brakes, airbags, oil. And gas went down to empty. My uncle/mechanic told me to unplug the battery, lights went off and seemed to be fine until a few days later it happened again i needed the check engine light off for my driving test that day so i unplugged battery. A week or so after that it started slipping a little while on highway, give it a little gas and problem goes away. Did a tune up. Checked my tranny fluid once again and now it was dark brown so had it flushed now its slipping even more not just on highway but at red lights, when van is still cold. Please help haha

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      Creston 22 months ago

      Thank you Eddie for directing me in these easy steps.

      What could be a maximum permissible mileage on a car?

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      Accord, Civic, Altima, and Camry are all good, but I recommend sticking with something around 2005 or newer if your looking for something more reliable with limited problems.

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      Creston 22 months ago

      Thank you Eddie,

      Can you be even more specific in terms of models and years?

      I guess the less overwhelming electronics and more proven mechanical solutions the better (but my guess could be wrong).

      Where to start?

      Mid-nineties? Older?

      Accord? Camry?

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      I really like the used Honda and Toyota's, they really seem to hold there value, not to mention I worked on Honda cars since 1984 so I know what kind of problems they have. Keep me posted on what you decide to buy Creston, and if you have any questions during the buying process, let me know if I can help :)

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      Creston 22 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Now that I can drive again, it's time to think of buying a car.

      What older used car/cars would you recommend?

      Your real expertise helps a lot.

      Creston

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Creston, You're welcome.

      Wow that's pretty cheap for a trans overhaul, good for you, plus you saved $400, Awesome!! Thanks for all the updated, this is really great information for other readers including myself. I know a lot about cars, but I certainly don't know everything :)

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      Creston 22 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      My transmission has been rebuilt in one day, in the East LA shop for the price of $ 800.

      There, too, I was told that the low gear was gone (in the same manner, by driving a couple of yards).

      I towed the car there early in the morning and took it back before 5 pm.

      I saw them working on it for a while. The shop was recommended to me.

      Thank you Eddie for helping all of us.

      Creston

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      Creston 22 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      And thank you for a quick advise.

      First transmission shop in Glendale, today, told me that forward clutch was so bad that didn't even make sense to test drive the car (they drove a few yards). No other tests were done. They wanted to rebuild it for $1,200.

      Tomorrow another shop to change the oil and filter and make some adjustments. I'm going to tow the car there. Hopefully, I'll get better results.

      Yes, I'll keep you updated.

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Creston,

      The first thing I recommend is changing the transmission fluid and replacing the filter, it's cheap, easy, and quick. You'll know right away if the filter was the problem. Or you could take it to a transmission shop and have them check the pressures in the transmission. Either way, let me know what you find, and thanks, your feedback is very much appreciated :)

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      Creston 22 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      My 1986 Crown Victoria Wagon (5.0 l) with Heavy Duty/High Torque Automatic Transmission (200, 000 mi) started slipping a lot in forward up to reaching about 35 mpg. After that seems OK on the freeway. Oil color and level is fine. The filter is very old.

      Can this be adjusted?

      Do I need to rebuild the transmission?

      Thanks for your great attitude and website.

      Creston

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      I know John,

      Like I said, I haven't seen one of those transmission in a while, so I wasn't sure about the solenoids.

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      john 22 months ago

      Thanks Eddie

      Gotta say that's not the answer I was hoping for but I'll take it to a shop and have it checked out. As far as it having solenoids ,a few years ago I replaced the engine due to crash damage and didn't have one of the solenoids plugged in fully and the car wouldn't move but I got a d4 code indicating a problem with the solenoid. I'll keep you posted and thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi John, 1994 Accord?

      With the transmission being that old, I would guess the clutch pack o-rings are worn and are leaking fluid internally. It's been a while since I have even looked at a transmission that old and I'm not even sure if there are any solenoids on the trans. I recommend taking it to a transmission shop like Aamco where they can hook up some pressure gauges and test the trans without taking it apart. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

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      John 22 months ago

      Hi Eddie

      I have a 94 accord lx wagon with automatic tranny. It slips when the shifter is in D4 when you first accelerate and slightly at the 1st to 2nd shift but doesn't slip if you accelerate slowly or if you put the gear selector in 1st and manually shift through the gears. there are no D4 codes showing ( the light comes on when you turn on the ignition and goes out when it starts). A fluid exchange was done about a year ago just before taking the car on a 7,000 mile trip with no issues. the fluid is full on the stick and as fresh as when it went in. I was thinking solinoid but wouldn't I be getting a code? Any direction or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jeff,

      If you RPM's are high at idle, you may have knocked off a vacuum line in the engine compartment. You said is sounds like an exhaust leak, so maybe you're hearing a vacuum leak (that would raise the RPM's to 3000). Having low transmission fluid would not cause a high RMP while in park, only while driving. Let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Rick,

      Some older cars did use regular 10w40 motor oil in the standard transmission, but you really need to check the dealership or the owners manual if you still have one, for the proper fluid to use. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks Rick.

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      rick 22 months ago

      my daughter has a 1996 Pontiac Sunfire, 5 speed manual transmission. I had heard it's ok to put motor oil in replace of the transmission fluid is this correct? and why would that be better?

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      Jeff 22 months ago

      So...my 99 Jeep Wrangler (4 cyl Automatic) is having some problems...today I paid to get the transmission fluid replaced, forgetting that I had just done it two years ago. Anyway, now it revs really high PRMS (3000) while in Park or even Neutral, and it seems like it can't find the lower gears. Highway driving is fine but neighborhood streets it's like a wild horse ready to run away at any moment. I checked the fluid level per owners manual and it didn't even register on the crosshatch. So I added more while it was warm. Drove a little after work and it was slightly better, added more fluid to where the dipstick shows it's correct. But I'm still having the same issues- high RPMS at park & neutral, seems to be sucking gas like crazy and it sounds like there's a hole in the exhaust somewhere in the engine compartment (maybe unrelated). Any ideas? Tomorrow I plan on checking the fluid levels again, and looking for leaks. I have no evidence of any leaks on a basic inspection....I'm just mad because it was doing fine before the change. I thought I was doing something nice for the ol' beast but now she's all messed up.

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      Eddie Carrara 23 months ago from New Hampshire

      Yes Rindi, most likely it's the slave cylinder or the clutch master cylinder. I would start by checking the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder first and let me know what you find, thanks.

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      rindi buller 23 months ago

      Hi eddie , thank you for the response , in reguards to the clutch when I pished on it went all the way to the ground and not all does it feel normal.how do I check the fluid in the tranny? Could it possiable be the clutch slave cylinder?

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      Eddie Carrara 23 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Steve,

      An 88? You'll be very lucky if it's only a solenoid or sticking valve. I recommend bringing it to a transmission specialty shop, they will test the transmission at the pressure test ports and should be able to give you a definitive answer weather it's internal or external. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

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      Steve 23 months ago

      My 88 pathfinder is slipping in second and third gear - not first or reverse. Unless I'm starting out on flat ground and let off the gas it won't shift Into second gear and same from second to third. Once I'm up to speed it shifts fine - even when slight incline comes along it shifts from OD back down to third........I'm hoping it's just a silenoid or vaccum problem - I recently added Lucas 24oz trans no slip / stop leak and 50mi later not much change........

      What say you???

      Thanks, Steve

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      Eddie Carrara 23 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rindi,

      It sounds like something in the clutch let go. How does the clutch pedal feel? Is it normal?

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      rindi stevens 23 months ago

      Above message honda accord 5 speed.i couldnt move it out of middlr of road. Thank you

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      rindi stevens 23 months ago

      Hi i had a question reguard my 1991 honda accord 6 speed ,just had a minth ago the transmission replacrd and clutch, two days ago while i was driving i heard a loud clank noise from front end and my car would go into any gear but fourth and i couldnt move itbout of the road my husband finlly put a straparound top shaft on tranny and i got home in fourth gear . My car runs but now neutral gear is fourth gear what has caused this

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      Eddie Carrara 24 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Austin,

      It sounds like you either have a range switch problem, or you have an internal transmission problem, it's probably nothing you can fix yourself. I recommend bringing it to a transmission shop to have it checked out, they will be able to tell you what's wrong by doing some electrical and pressure tests. Keep me posted on what they find.

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      AustinG95 24 months ago

      My 2000 cadillac seville sls when it warms up it seems like reverse is in park but in neutral in backs up when I go forward in drive it goes so far then it applies the brakes what could it be

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      AustinG 24 months ago

      I have a 2000 cadillac seville sls it runs rough and when it warms up it seems like reverse in park and neutral is reverse it goes perfect in reverse but when put it in drive it will go for so long and it applies the break put in reverse put it back in drive and it drive alittle farther then happens again need help ASAP

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      Eddie Carrara 24 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Daniel, I think I missed something, You say it happens with the symptom of the oil pressure gauge? What symptom??? Give me all the details without skipping over any major details," Like your oil pressure gauge reads with the key off" ??? The more intricate details, the better.

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      daniel 24 months ago

      Hello i have a 2003 zr2 s10 pickup and its slipping out of gear when i turn the steering wheel or when it down shifts and i accelarate it once again. i pull over and park it and put it in gear again and it moves again no check engine light fluid leves are good but whem i apply the brakes it feel like something is moving underneath vehicle. Aldo it only seems to happen after 10 minutes of driving and along with the symptom the oil pressure gauge in the engine starts to fluctuate i have even had the key out of the ignition and the oil pressure still reads could it be improper grounding cauding all these problems?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Paquibs,

      The 3rd clutch switch is located near the dipstick and the 2nd clutch switch is located under the air cleaner box. If you go to my website http://www.simple-car-answers.com/Car-Leaks-Red-Fl... and leave me a comment in the Disqus comment box, I can add some pictures for you, I just can't add them here.

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      paquibs 2 years ago

      I think i have found the shift solenoids. They are hidden inside the solenoid cover just under the dual linear solenoid. I would think that they are all submerged with ATF. Anyway i will have to look on this on weekend. If you could share proper way of testing this would be very helpful thank you very much.

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      paquibs 2 years ago

      Thanks Eddie for your response. I did checked again my atf level and its just between the crosshatch marker. I started the engine and let it idle for 10 mins then turn off. After 2 mins i checked the fuel level again and its way below the tip of the dipstick. Is this the proper way of checking the fuel level? My assumption is that this is what honda called Normal Operating Temperature. Kindly advice.

      I've been searching the net on where can i locate the shift solenoid but seems to no avail. However i found these to be the shift solenoids for my crv model: 28400-PRP-004 SS/A & 28500-PRP-004 SS/B. Is this something that can be seen outside the tranny? I can only see the linear solenoids (single & dual) attached to the tranny. If you could provide a simple picture for me so i can figrue it out on how to get this replaced. I appreciate your response. Thank you.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Nate,

      It sounds like your clutch is definitely slipping. I recommend having it replaced asap so you don't damage the flywheel Keep me posted on how you make out, thanks.

      Hi Paquibs,

      Make sure your engine is off and the car is on level ground when checking the fluid level. The fluid should be between the crosshatch marks on the dipstick. I just checked the code and it says " This code is caused by an electrical circuit problem and cannot be caused by a mechanical problem in the transmission." So you may need to have the shift solenoids tested and replaced as needed. Let me know if this helps, thanks.

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      paquibs 2 years ago

      I've been searching the web for three weeks looking for a solution to my problem but seems to no avail. I started giving up and would think of bringing my car to a repair shop and have my vehicle checked. But seeing this article gives me little hope. I have 2003 CRV A/T 106K and started slipping since last month. The car runs as normal but the gear (1st to 2nd) will start slipping after running about 10 minutes or so. Seems like its getting worse when it gets hotter. Turned it off, turn on after few seconds then accelerate normally then slips again after a minute or so. At first, i have a P0780 code in my OBDII. I drain/refill with ATF DW-1 three times and the P0780 is now gone but still slipping. Upon reading this article, i checked the manual again and says to check the ATF level during Normal Operating Temperature (not realizing that this is different between the engine is cold). Now I realized that i only fill the ATF in the middle of the high/low level mark when engine is cold. Could this be a reason why its still slipping? I will check the level again tomorrow and fill if necessary and get back. Thanks.

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      Nate 2 years ago

      I have a 98 Honda accord standard. I am wondering if my clutch is on its way out. It seems to work fine mostly though I have two issues. Clutch engages almost immediately upon pressing pedal, as opposed to engaging when pedal is pressed farther toward the floor. I hardly noticed this and cannot remember how long it has been this way.

      The second problem is what I have noticed. When I get on the highway and begin speeding up, I will lose acceleration (almost as if I have slightly engaged the clutch). Engine RPMs rev up but car acceleration doesn't keep up. I have to let off the gas a bit to let the transmission catch up. I have not noticed this happening at lower speeds/gears.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Zheng,

      I recommend starting out by checking the transmission fluid level and condition, if it's low, add what's needed, if the fluid is brown or very dark, have it replaced and then check to see if the shifting improves. Let me know if this helps, thanks.

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      zheng 2 years ago

      Hi,

      I have read this article and found I may have the transmission slipping. That is when I shift from reverse to drive and I loose the brake suddenly, there is a sudden harsh jerk. But if I loose the brake smoothly, sometimes this is good. And that harsh jerk sometimes happens when I drive the car at a certain speed, like 10miles/h, 30 miles/h. Can you explain a little?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lorcy,

      That sounds like your transmission fluid is very low or you have lost pump pressure inside the transmission. I recommend checking the transmission fluid level, if needed, add fluid, then take it to a transmission shop if possible. Keep me posted on what happens Lorcy, thanks.

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      lorcy 2 years ago

      Hi .... HELP!!

      I have a 2008 automatic voyager executive, a few months ago it started changing gear on its own whilst driving... The garage said the transmisson fluid was low.. That seemed to sort the problem for a while then a few weeks ago it randomly started doing it again but stopped... Then tonight... Whilst driving it seemed to go in to neutal (without changing on the dash lights) then suddenly just stopped moving... Now it simply doesnt go into gear... When i put it in to Drive it revs & revs with the occasional jult but doesnt move.. As if its stuck in neutral. Any ideas??

      Thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Foxy,

      Project cars are money pits, especially if you have someone else doing the work. I recommend bringing the vehicle to a transmission expert, not the dealership, these guys really understand how the transmission works and can do some pressure testing before they condemn the transmission. Let me know if this helps, and keep me posted on what happens, thanks.

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      Foxy 2 years ago

      Hey, great info. I have a 98 ford mustang gt, v8, 4.6lt. Automatic. 139,000 miles. This car has been a money pit but since it was a "dream car" we have continued to fix everything. This past week my car has been acting up. From 1st into 2nd it sounds as if it shifts into neautral, making the rpms go up 3,000 with no accelaration. When it goes into second it is smooth and shifts correctly and fast after 2nd gear. We checked the transmission fluid as soon as we got home and it was fine. After a couple days of not driving it we took it to the garage, since we have spent over 10,000 (new engine and little crap here and there) in this baby the manager and I are very close, lmao! Anywho i do trust this man, but he says that it was low a quart but most likely i will need a new transmission and quoted me 1400 for a used transmission and labor. Im like crazy about checking my fluids and making sure there is no leaks as we just replaced the transmission pan and had it flushed in june 2014 and have not seen anything drip, ect. I also have alot of electrical issues we are slowly fixing. One which is causing my turn signals not to work but my hazards work. And my abs light is on, and is a sensor issue. Also there is no check engine light on. This is not my everyday driver but is a work in progress, but if it is the transmission then its going out the door! Lol. I was wonderin if there maybe an underlying issue that could cause this, or if my tranny is just going out?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sam,

      It sounds like you have a transmission shift solenoid problem. I would bring it to a Honda Dealer, they can tell you what's wrong by checking the code and doing a little testing. It may cost you a few buck, but it's worth it. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks Sam.

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      sam 2 years ago

      Yes the check engine light came on yesterday. And as i was driving it would not shift properly. When i slowed down on freeway it would down shift extremely hard and my tires would squeal with every down shift. And when i got off the freeway it felt like it was stuck in third gear

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sam,

      If you over fill it, it could cause too much pressure and cause leaks, but if it's only over by about a 1/2 quart, I wouldn't worry too much. Is the check engine light on?

    • profile image

      Sam 2 years ago

      Thanks for replying! I went ahead and added transmission fluid. Now i think i added to much. Would that cause a problem having too much atf in the transmission? I test drove it and still had same problem tho.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Arinze,

      Thanks for the update, keep me posted on how the transmission shifts after the fluid change.

      Hi Hopnosh,

      that sounds reasonable, let me know how it drives once you get it installed, Thanks.

      Hi Sam,

      I try to look at all the comments once a day, so you're in luck :) It sounds like your transmission fluid is low. Park the vehicle on flat ground, turn off the engine and pull the dipstick. If you need to add transmission fluid, look on top of the transmission for a 17mm fill port. remove the 17mm port and fill it with a long funnel and only check the level with the engine off. . Let me know if you have any questions and keep me posted on how you make out, thanks.

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      sam 2 years ago

      Idk if this is comment is going to go thru or how fast i will recieve a reply but i have an 05 honda pilot and last week it spilled fluid. Idk where since i couldnt find leak. I added some fluid thru the dipstick and i think i over filed it. Is that a problem. The reason i ask is because it will drive normally when cold but once it gets hot it will have trouble shifting. It sound like it neutralizes and then engages hard once the rmps go higher. Also once it gets hot the reverse stops working unless i accelerate really hard. (Did that once only) i would really like to figure out what it is but I don't know where to start! 2005 Honda pilot 4x4 automatic.

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      Hopnosh 2 years ago

      Thanks man, Talked to the shop today, they might be picking it up this week. They said they bench tested it and that it was ready to go. I cant really see how I could of fouled the tranny up some how, the install went smoothly. They want 75$ to come get it. They are right around corner if they werent sitting on a hill I could drive it over there.

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      Arinze 2 years ago

      Hi eddie,

      Thank you. I took it for scan and found out the catalyst converter was blocked. I changed it and the car drives okay now.

      I will also change the atf because of the colour and also because am noticing sudden surge while driving and noice when i engage reverse.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Arinze, I would start by changing out the trans fluid and see if that improves the shift quality. Let me know if what happens, thanks.

      Hi Hopnosh,

      I recommend bringing it to a transmission shop so they can hook up the pressure gauges to see where the problem is coming from. It may cost a few bucks but it's worth it to not pull it out again, it could be something as simple as a valve body problem.

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      Hopnosh 2 years ago

      Hi everyone, I have a 67 ford fairlane ranchero that im restoring with a straight 6, c4 automatic transmission. I bought the car 6 months ago not running, I pulled the c4 out and had it rebuilt. Put it back in just recently started it up and it would engage in rev. and drive but was slipping in all gears. Jacked it back up and opps forgot to hook up the Vac. mod. hose. Hooked up now took it back out and will shift into 2nd but when I give some gas will start to slip again. Things I have checked Vac M, fluid level and adjusted the front bands today but have not yet tested her yet. Werid thing is I've notice some some bubbles on the dip stick like its over filled but its reading on point with the markings. Any idea's I should try before pulling the tranny back out.

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      Arinze 2 years ago

      goodday eddie.

      my wife's toyota avensis 2003 with automatic transmission seems not be changing to gear2 from 1 easily. most cases while climbing hill the car becomes very sluggish even when giving it gas and the rpm increasing.

      i checked the atf and it is not low, but it looks really dark and not Pink.

      please what is your advise?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rhonda,

      I recommend bringing it back to the mechanic , it sounds like you have a misfire. Is your check engine light on?

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      rhonda 2 years ago

      Hi I really like this forum. I have a kia sorento 2007 model and since repairing the engine by changing the crankshaft bearings and reinstalling the engine there is a loss of power and lots of black smoke when I try to accellorate a hill. Please help.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Travis,

      How does the u-joints look, is there any play in the u-joints?

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      Travis 2 years ago

      1987 Ford Ranger 4x4 project - put in a complete new clutch set - pressure plate, pinnion bearing, slave cylinder & throwout bearing, etc.

      When driving truck works fine at low rpms, but when at higher rpms in any gear it feels and sounds as if either the transmission is missing a tooth on the main gearshaft and it is missing or either the pressur plate is hitting on the bellhousing. Having trouble diagnosing a fix. I have checked the bell housing hit and have found no evidence. I have took the bottom off of the tranny an can not see any visible loose gear play or any broken synchros or bearings. Any ideas on what this might possibly be?

      Hard to figure a fix when I cant find the problem. Baffled....

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Charlie,

      If the axle seal was replace correctly, it's possible your differential bearings are worn and are causing the axle seals to leak prematurely. The only way to tell if you have worn diff bearings is to check the inner axle play. Let me know if this helps Charlie, thanks.

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      charlie 2 years ago

      i have a second hand 1995 nissan sentra series 3 model. i fixed all engine leaking except that for my transmission. It leaks. I replace the CV seal both left and right twice. after a month of a high speed driving, i notice that my left cv seal started to leak. According to my mechanic they replace it correctly. I also notice that inside in the transmission was also leaking for it drain oil in the area where i park my vehicle. anyone has an idea how to fixed my transmission. I will appreciate it very much. you can also email me at charliebaguio1972@gmail.com

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Timmy,

      It sounds like your clutch disc is dragging on the pressure plate and flywheel. When the clutch heats up from friction, the metal expands and causes the the disc to overheat and glaze. Do you smell clutch disc burning? I think something inside the clutch housing is loose and it needs to be taken apart. I recommend taking it back the the shop that replaced it in the first place, the parts may still be under a 12 month warranty. Let me know what you find Timmy, thanks.

      Hey Dan,

      That may be a great opportunity to dump it quick, just double check on kbb to see what the selling price could be in running condition.

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      Dan 2 years ago

      Thanks for the info!

      It seems like people around here are interested in paying 2500-3000 for it knowing the tranny needs to be replaced. I am throwing in a few extras. See what happens I guess.... They could try to low ball me with an offer.

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      TimmyPolo 2 years ago

      When its cold there's a 2-3 inches free play on the clutch pedal but when it's hot, only an inch, sometimes half inch..

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Timmy,

      Is there any free play at the top of the pedal? When the pedal is released, there should be about 1-2 inches of play before your feel any tension on the clutch pedal, does your pedal have free play?

      Hi Dan,

      Replacing the transmission with a salvage yard trans may be your best option, and the cheapest option. $1200- $1500 installed, if you think you can get decent money when selling it, go for it. Check your vehicles value at kbb.com, let me know what you decide to do, thanks Dan.

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      Dan 2 years ago

      Hello,

      I have a '90 Jeep Wrangler (automatic) that had a transmission cooler line dump my tranny fluid while going down the interstate. Once I noticed the issue, I pulled over, put the line back on and put a quart (all I had) of ATF in hopping I hadn't lost that much before I noticed. Crossing my fingers I jumped in and tried to make it along the interstate on the shoulder going slow. I made it to the off ramp just about a mile or two away and couldn't make it up. That's when I realized I must have lost my line again and had an insufficient amount of fluid left. In turn, I'm sure, ruining my tranny. I got it towed and flushed the system and replaced the filter.

      I'm sure it's shot, about 1 out of 5 stops driving around town it takes off quite slow like it is slipping in 1st then engages 2nd with a jolt . Recently around 2nd or 3rd it seems like it pops into neutral and back into gear again. I'm assuming you will say its done for and will only last a little bit longer and that's what i'm expecting.

      I plan on getting something newer. Now, is it worth it to foot the bill to get a rebuilt put it then sell it? or just sell as is it to someone who wants to put the money into it (if there is anyone out there willing)? I guess what i'm asking is; will I at least make back what I spend on installing a rebuilt tranny when it sells?

      Thanks for your input!

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      TimmyPolo 2 years ago

      Hi Sir, thanks for the reply. Every morning I did checked my car. When the engine is still cold, clutch is normal & it is not sliding but when the engine runs for about half an hour or 10Km and the engine is getting hot, my clutch is automatically adjust and it was hard to release.. It was fixed through an automotive shop.. Thank you.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Timmy,

      So your clutch is slipping in all gears from first to fifth? How does your clutch pedal feel? Normal? Who did the work, a garage, or did you replace it yourself? Let me know Timmy, thanks.

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      TimmyPolo 2 years ago

      My Honda Accord 1995 MT, 78Km only, March this year when I was replaced my clutch disc, pressure plate & release bearing. My questions are, why my clutch automatically adjusting when the engine it is getting hot? Sliding clutch when it is hot. From 1st gear to 5th gear. Please help. Any idea how to fix this issue? Thanks in advance..

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Hope,

      Is the check engine light on? I think at this point it's probably time to bring it to a transmission specialist like Aamco or if you know of another transmission specialist. It sounds to me like a solenoid problem because at one point in your trip it corrected itself. If it was a mechanical problem from over heating, it would not correct itself , it would progressively get worse. Keep me posted on what you find Hope, and let me know if the transmission light or any other light is on, thanks.

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      hope 2 years ago

      thanks for the response. its an automatic transmission. no signs of leakages. the initial fluid was brownish and so is the present one which has bein in the car for just a week. the fluid level is a bit higher than the upper limit for hot even though i checked when the engine was off. had a mechanic checked it out and he notice the transmission was disconnected from the radiator and shorted to itself and he said the lack of cooling effect must have damaged the transmission..

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Hope,

      Is this an automatic transmission or an manual? Is there any signs of leakage? Did you pull the dip stick to check the fluid level? What color is the fluid (if you could see it on the dip stick?) Let me know hope, thanks.

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      hope 2 years ago

      please sorry i didnt mention that a week prior to this i travelled with the car and covered about 600km. half way in the travel the car couldnt accelerate beyond 80km/h with the RPM high up. had the transmission oil change with no immediate benefit and after driving the car like that for about 20mins the problem corrected with the car moving normally up until this present situation. hope the additional info helps. thanks for the anticipated response..

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      hope 2 years ago

      pls need help wit my camry 2007. the gears could shift, but in both drive or reverse there is no motion only the engine raring up. had a scan done with code p0986 showing. the transmission oil has been changed with no improvement. also when trying to flush the transmission fluid, no oil comes out from the hose. i do like to know if this fault can be repaired or i have to change the transmission

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      boyan 2 years ago

      my CHRYSLER VOYAGER, 2003, 2.5 CRDI, vin 1C8GYN3713Y547084, is slipping from 1st and 3rd gear! CAN YOU ADVISE

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mary,

      Your best option is to go back to the mechanic who said that replacing the valve would fix it, and tell them it didn't fix at and your still having problems, or, find a transmission specialist to diagnose the problem. It may cost you more money, but it's a lot less than replacing the transmission. Let me know if you have more question, and keep me posted on what you decide to do Mary, thanks.

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      Mary 2 years ago

      I'm having a few issues with my car (Auto Mazda Familia 1999) In the mornings when you try to accelerate the car seems to struggle as though it's stuck in 1st gear and takes a little while before it finally moves properly. The hold light also flashes (only in the mornings) even though I don't use the hold button.. And the last problem (which happens pretty much all the time) is when changing into drive you feel the car is a bit delayed as it takes a while to 'kick in'. If you're going from neutral to drive and try to accelerate straight away it won't move then about 2 seconds later it'll 'jerk'. It's been taken in twice to get a scan and the first guy I took it to said there was something wrong with one of the sensors so we got it replaced - problem still happened. We told the guy and he said it had him stumped and I might need to replace the whole transmission. So I decided to try someone else, we took it in and this guy also ran a scan on it and came up with there was something wrong with a different sensor and possibly the 'seals'? (I think?). We replaced the sensor BUT the problem is still happening. It hasn't solved anything! Do you know what could be wrong with it here or is replacing the transmission the only option? :/

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Carol,

      If the engine is running rich, (failing coil) it will dump raw fuel into the exhaust causing the cat to over heat (rotten egg smell) and breakdown the catalytic converter over an extended period of time, so I would start there. The coil can also cause a occasional jerk, so I would start by getting your engine running good and see how she drive after that, I don't recommend dumping 2k into a vehicle that old. Let me know if this helps, and let me know how everything turns out Carol, thanks.

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      Carol 2 years ago

      Hi, I hope all is well for you at least! I am really about desperate ! I too have car w/ very sim problems that I read above. 91 olds Cutlas supreme , 59,000 orig. Miles-was my moms car. OVER NIGHT, this past winter , got in warm up car to take son to school . Smelled like burning and rotten eggs. Starting out of driveway up street , starting jerking and hesitating, son said take back to house and he'd walk. Called our repair shop, booked but could bring by to "look"@it, which daughter &i did. Told was "running rich" if continued , could damage catalytic converter. Son - oldest ,told me to put in some fluid (can't remember name-he used to work for auto part store yrs ago) bought kind in gas tank seemed to run bit better burn/egg smell gone, but at 40-45 mph shakes/vibrates like on road w/rumble strip,also slight hesitation when going from complete stop. I'm called an AAMCO got mgr from diff store on loan, said sounded like tuneup issue(something ?) coil-no big deal $40 part&labor(replaced plugs plug wires belts etc last yr @shop) so I took to my local AAMCO for diagnostic -- told need torch converter rebuild transmission and Then diagnostic for engine possible tune up issues that couldn't be done til I did replace trans and torch converter $2000++!!! That shop independently owned!! Neighbor looked at car, test drive too-said NOT my trans and eng sounds good too, said smelled the gas, true, said running rich(MY SHOP SAID THAT IN LATE JAN/FEB WHEN ROTTEN EGG SMELL 1st Day!) & prob catalytic converter poss clogged -he put mechanic rag over exhaust pipe , drain suction sound.*** OH, after the 2nd AAMCO telling me small fortune I don't have on soc sec Disab I called our shop again, they don't do trans but gave no of who they refer to FOR SECOND OPINION ! Called, told to check references of people online about shop that told me all that and Them. They'd diagnose free, tell complete going on etc... So planned to take there for 2nd opinion next week after school out. Yesterday was my Aunts funeral...after pickup mom from retire home taking her n kids to funeral home , then procession to CEMETARY then wake mom back to home on route to house my son said floor was HOT!! Pulled in driveway , parked, felt under seat, floor-drivers floor not bad, passenger side n under seat VERY WARM AND SO WAS HUMP BETWEEN DRIVERS N PASSENGER SEAT, back also warm!!! Scared me! Came in put down everything took off heels went back out and looked under car(not that I'd know what to look for/at, but did and didn't see anything different ). Which was good as when googled issue referenced a "glow" & poss fire hazard-- NO Glow under car. ** ALSO SAW CATALYTIC CONVERTER LOCATED ABOUT BETWEEN MIDDLE HUMP AND PASSENGER SEAT UNDER CAR WHEN GOOGLED THE HOT FLOOR PROB--Again, catalytic converter!!

      It, also , occasional jerk shifting (automatic) - occasional !! The shake happens between 40-45 shift 1st 2nd and 3rd seem fine ... The shake rumble b4 4th, HAVE NOT TAKEN ON BELTWAY 55 mph + since this started.

      PLEASE, Any ideas, your thoughts??/$$ How many guinee pig tests will I expect to do to pay for repairs? Lol (but serious ) think safe to drive in meanwhile ?

      MANY THANKS in Advance,

      Carol

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Desiree,

      You can check out this video I have on my website @ http://www.simple-car-answers.com/2002-Dodge-Carav... , it may help sovle your problem. I know it's a bit techie, but you asked if I had any ideas :)

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      Desiree 2 years ago

      Hi I have a Dodge caravan and I was driving and all of sudden the van stops in the middle of the road. Now it wil start up but not catch any gears. I put some transmission fluid because it was extremely low but it still wont catch gears. I dont want to pay a mechanic just to tell me I need a new tranny. Is there anything else I could try before I just change the whole transmission? Please help thank you

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi 2004 Eddie Bauer Ford Expedition,

      The pinion seal has nothing to do with the transmission, unless for some reason they pulled the drive shaft out of the transfer case, but still, that's just the transfer case. Did you ever see any drips under the vehicle after the repair?

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      2004 Eddie Bauer Ford Expedition 2 years ago

      Has 135k miles on it. Always serviced by Ford and never had any major issues. Was told needed a front differential pinion seal by Ford because of small leak. Was told by another small family run dealer that the seal is fine and truck in great condition. Ended up going to a closer to home Ford dealership and they said the same thing the other Ford place said about the seal. I had them service it. Two weeks later i am driving and the truck feels like it slipped into neutral and continued to idle while my foot was on the gas and then after a minute clonked back into gear and ran normal for a few minutes until it started doing it again. I brought the truck into the Ford dealership and they are telling me i need a transmission. Can replacing the seal incorrectly have caused the supposed transmission issue? I have never had any problems until i went to have the seal changed at this dealership and it is making me a little unnerved that it might have been an inexperienced technician.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Carla,

      I would check the transmission fluid level first, it may be low causing the transmission to slip, if the level is OK, the vehicle may have an internal transmission problem. There may be a warranty on the transmission work, so don't wait too long to bring it back to the transmission garage so they can take a look. Keep me posted on what you find Carla, I'm very curious, thanks.

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      Carla 2 years ago

      The rpms climbing but not engaging transmission at all.

      Thank you

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Carla,

      When you say "it wouldn't pull", was the engine lagging in power or was the engine rpm's climbing but the vehicle would not go any faster? Let me know Carla, thanks.

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      Carla 2 years ago

      Hello Eddie,

      I have a question about a vehicle that my brother has. He was on his way to my house a few weeks back, in his 1992 automatic pathfinder. The transmission had been replaced about a year ago. Oil and all fluids recently checked. He says he was just driving along and it wouldn't pull at all. Motor still cranks and runs fine. Any ideas?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Steph,

      Check the transmission fluid, you may have a leak, also check the power steering fluid, it may have a leak also. If the transmission fluid is low, I would have it changed once you fix the leak, it sounds like you are doing some major damage to the transmission internally. Let me know how you make out Steph, thanks.

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      stephanie 2 years ago

      I have a 2007 Chrysler pacifica 4.0. A few months ago it was making a whining sound like when power steering goes out but that was fine so I ignored it. Well now u start the car put in reverse it barely moves while engine rares up. Then take off in 1st n so on it runs great till car gets warmed up. When slowing down under 3rd gear it just does nothing . So then I kill the car n restart n it takes off fine till u slow down to 2nd or first. Then gotta repeat all over again. To me it has a smell like if it's running hot but it's not. My husband drove it home from Amarillo like this. Hoping if I get it flushed it may help. What do you think?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ethan,

      I would start by changing the fluid and filter, sometimes the filter o-rings break and you lose suction to the transmission pump. Start there and let me know how you make out.

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      Ethan 2 years ago

      Its full but its a little brown and its leakin around the pan but it goes fine if you creep and you can feel it trying to grab a gear

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      Ethan 2 years ago

      I checked it and its low also noticed a significant leak around the pan would that cause this thanks for your help and knowledge

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      Dave 2 years ago

      Will do Eddie, as always appreciate your feedback and the website work and blogs you do. Cheers.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hay Dave, that sucks!

      AAMCO is a big company and they specialize in transmissions, they also offer a warranty, so I think your on the right track. I still think the first mechanic may have started the snowball rolling but there is no way to prove it. Keep me posted on how everything works out. Maybe if you have time after the transmission is fixed you could add a review about the AAMCO you used on my website @ www.SimpleCarAnswers.com under "Auto Shop Reviews" I've been trying to get a few customer reviews, but haven't had much luck, it will always be a work in progress, lol. Thanks for all your feedback Dave, I really appreciate it.

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      Dave 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I took the 97 Acura to the dealer and they did there diagnostic. It appears, the clutch package is gone and therefore the transmission is also done. So, it will need a new/rebuilt one.

      And they looked at the drive axle etc., and said the mechanic did that right, so there is no issue or liability there.

      Now, I have to decide on whether to fix the tranny or just sell the car as is?

      It will cost about $2k for a rebuild with some kind of warranty but I need a shop that is in Canada as well as I will be giving the car to my father to use, his car died a month ago and he just needs something to get him around for errands. The dealer won't warranty it North America wide because the tranny won't come from Acura. The only one I could think of is AAMCO. I figured if I'm going to spend $2k on a tranny of all parts, I definitely need a warranty otherwise no point in spending $2k. Any advice or thoughts in dealing with AAMCO?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dave, sure no problem, glad to help :)

      It sound to me like the mechanic forgot to top off the transmission fluid after changing the axle. When you remove an axle, the transmission leaks out about 2 quarts, depending on which transmission you have, but it's typically 2 quarts.

      I could be wrong, but I have done it myself, but luckily I road test every job I do, or I would have never caught the mistake. The speedo is a another question, that may have just failed coincidentally because there is no reason for the mechanic to be around that area. Keep me posted on what the dealer finds, I'm very curious, thanks Dave.

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      Dave 2 years ago

      Thanks Eddie!

      Ya Bruno is my cousin, who sent the initial post but I'm the one dealing with this as it's my vehicle.

      Basically, went to replace the long (driver's side) drive axle, which they replaced not too long ago with a rebuilt. It would vibrate at certain rpm's and I was shown how it was vibrating, so as it was under warranty asked the mechanic to replace it. After he did this, the tranny which was working perfectly fine was slipping and now basically the tranny isn't working at all. When the mechanic saw it was slipping he decided to put Lucas Stop Slip. Now he says the tranny went and I need a new one. However, I am super perplexed cause I had no tranny issues, shifts were good, even that same morning I brought it in for the drive axle replacement. I am now going to have to take it to the dealer and have them give me a diagnostic. Either this is a big coincidence or the mechanic is completely useless. Although the dealer is expensive, I should have just taken it to them in the first place.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bruno,

      Honda transmission do not need any additives and I don't recommend using any, especially if your 're not having any problems. I would drain it and use genuine Honda transmission fluid.

      Hi Dave,

      An after market axle should not damage the speed sensor, it's not even close to the speed sensor. Is this the same mechanic who put the transmission additive in the trans? I would take a close look at the speed sensor wires, make sure they are not damaged, and also make sure the connector is snapped in place. Let em know what you find Dave, thanks.

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      Dave 2 years ago

      Sorry, forgot to mention its on a 1997 Acura CL, see previous post...

      thanks Dave.

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      Dave 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I just had my drive axle replaced with an after market one. Then my transmission was driving like it was slipping, very badly. The check engine lite came on and the code is P0715 which means its a speed sensor. The mechanic took it out and said no broken piece. Could the drive axle have anything to do with it? Or should I just change the sensor, which costs $200? Any advice....thanks Dave.

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      Bruno 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie, I have a 97 Acura CL with approx 156k miles. My mechanic put the LUCAS transmission stop slip, even though my tranny doesn't slip as a preventative measure. Ive always had the tranny fluid changed at the Honda dealer and the tranny has shifted ok.

      Any ideas? Do you think its a decent enough product and will not harm the tranny? Or should I just drain it and just put in the regular tranny fluid? Thanks Bruno.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Efern,

      It sounds like you have an issue inside the transmission, I don't think it's an easy fix. I recommend bringing it to a transmission shop just to be sure. Let me know what they say, thanks.

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      efren 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie my Nissan Sentra Series-3 '96 model automatic transmission is having RPM issues. The RPM sometimes coming up and down erratically. Sometimes the needle would read 1 to full red 6 and back again. Nissan tech already cleaned the Mass Air Flow Sensor. Its has slipping issues from time to time.Flushed and replaced new transmission fluid but still the same issues.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ethan, have you checked the transmission fluid level and condition yet?

      Hi Ade,

      Unless you're good with transmissions, I would recommend you just buy a new trans.

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      ade 2 years ago

      i have a montero sport 1999 model with trans. leakage. can i just buy the rekit and seal to stop it or do suggest i replace the the entire trans

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      Ethan 2 years ago

      Hey Eddie I have a 1992 gmc Sierra 1500 4x4 with the 5.7 v8 and a 350 turbo auto trans the truck will go in gear but as soon as you mash the gas it will not go what will fix this

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      martha 2 years ago

      thanks, will try that

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Martha,

      I would start with a pump and go from there. If a power steering pump is making a whine noise, you may not have any power steering problems, just a noise at first, but it could lead to other issues if not fixed. You could try adding a little extra fluid to the reservoir and see if that makes a difference, but just add a little over the full line. Let me know if this helps Martha, thanks.

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      martha 2 years ago

      My 2003 Lincoln Aviator with 150K miles makes a whine and racing sound briefly upon every start up. What could be causing it?

      The service department front man at the dealership says (without checking) its is a bad power steering pump, but I have no other power steering problems, no noises when turning and no leaks to my knowledge.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Drive it for a while Junior, let the thin oil replace the thick oil, it may take a few hundred miles. Keep me posted, thanks.

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      Junior 2 years ago

      Shifts a lil better and smoother but gears still go in hard and stick 1st and 2nd gear at times

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      Junior 2 years ago

      Shifts a lil better smoother but gears still hard to go in and tend to stick just 1st and 2nd gear at times.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Junior,

      You should never use 75w90, you should be using Honda genuine standard transmission fluid or 10w30. I think you'll notice a big difference. Let me know how it feels, thanks.

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      Junior 2 years ago

      93 civic with a LS tranny. Gears tend to stick and hard to go in. Topped off the tranny with 75w90 no leaks. WD40 the shift linkage. N still the same. Clutch is good, grabs like no other. And I adjusted the clutch and nothing still, any ideas?

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      Jean 2 years ago

      leaks noted.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Chrissy,

      I would a least start with a transmission fluid flush and filter change, especially if the trans fluid is black and burnt. You may have a bad sensor, but start with the flush and filters and keep me posted, thanks.

      Hi Steven,

      When was the last time you change the fluid and filter in the trans? When the engine is at low RPM's, there is not much pressure in the trans, if the filter is partially clogged or the filter o-ring has small cracks in it from age, you could be losing even more pressure causing a slow engagement. I would start there, and keep me posted Bro :)

      Hi Buckster,

      If the clutch pedal seems normal, most likely your clutch disc is blown. Did this happen all of the sudden or was it gradually slipping more and more? Let me know Buckster, thanks.

      Hi Kelly,

      I'm not sure I understand the scenario? Give me as much detail as possible and I'll answer it the best I can, thanks.

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      kelly 2 years ago

      I have a 97 ford explorer with the e55 tranny in it I had rebuilt the trany but it back in went to drive and had reverse but no forward was real hard to go back wards any sussgions

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      buckster818@yahoo.com 2 years ago

      Hey Eddie Carrara I have a 2001 Nissan maxima 5 speed not sure but I think my clutch when out. My car starts up but once I put it in gear the car just sits and the RPMs Rev up

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      Steven 2 years ago

      Hey brotha,

      I have a 1999 Chevy 2500 and when you shift into drive it hesitates to go and don't shift immediately but afterwards shifts fine. Any ideas ?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Chrissy, how does the truck drive? Is the transmission slipping? It could be just the transmission temp sensor failing or a problem with a wire grounding out. Let me know how the truck is running, thanks.

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      chrissy 2 years ago

      My Trans temp light comes on and goes off In my 2002 dodge durango. What does that mean? And if its an extremely vital problem, how much more life would you say my truck has before i need to get a new car?

      Thank you

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rsx, is the car moving when you hear these noises, or is it sitting still? Is the clutch pedal pushed in or is it out?

      Is the vibrating noise a metal or rubber sounding noise?

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      Rsx 2 years ago

      Just got a new clutch and lightweight flywheel intalled in an Rsx type s. The problems are when the car is cold and I start it there is a rubbing vibrating sound coming from the engine bay. Also when in reverse it sounds like a spring popping. Your opinions please?

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mercedes,

      No, don't replace the converter, clear the code and drive it, if it comes back on, spend some money to have someone from a transmission shop diagnose it. As far as the misfire codes, what's causing them? It could be a coil, plug, egr valve, injector, blah, blah, blah. Have it diagnosed, it may be something else causing the misfire. Let me know what you find out, thanks Mercedes.

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      mercedes 3 years ago

      Ran codes got p0741 so should I replace the whole torque converter? Also ruff in idle is that spark plugs because I also got code p0300 and p0125

      Thnks

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tracer, yes that is what I was wondering myself, that's why I asked if it was leaking anywhere else :) It would be the weak spot, but I would also check the u-joint and bearing for play. Keep me posted, thanks.

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      tracer 3 years ago

      No fluid is leaking anywhere else. I put a new seal in and it blew it out also. Could it be a stopped up vent.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tracer, I would check the u-joint for play or it could be a output shaft bearing that's worn. Is there any fluid leaking anywhere else? Let me know, thanks.

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      Tracer1171 3 years ago

      I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado 2 wheel drive. I noticed that that the tail shaft seal had popped out. I replaced it with a new one and refilled tranny. Drove 40 mile and then noticed that the new seal had popped out. What is causing the seal to keep coming out? Thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Mike, that's awesome :) I love it when it's a simple repair, and thanks for the update.

      Hi Mercedes, most likely you over heated the transmission but didn't do any harm, the shaky feeling you get when driving is probably snow caught in your wheels causing them to be unbalanced. I recommend washing them out at the car wash or just wait for a warm day and the snow will melt out of the wheels. Let me know if this helps Mercedes, thanks.

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      mercedes25 3 years ago from Portland, Oregon

      Hello eddie

      Recently we had snow as has everybody across america. I got stuck in front of my home. I tryed to get out and I started to slide towards a neighbors vehicle so being a 26 year old female (that knows nothing about cars) I panicked! So I started going forward to reverse gunning the car trying my hardest to get out. I have a 2000 cadillac seville sls. Welp big shocker I hear a bit of a thunk and service transmission light comes on and cars running ruff. I instantly turnrd off the car. 2 hours later I used kitty litter and got out and parkrd it for 2 days. Then I moved it one more time and have let it sit about 2 weeks. Car drives as well as reverses but is very shaky and im scared to take it to aamco to find out the damage I caused in 2 minutes of panic. Cars had no issuses untill now but im.sure could be in need of a tuneup. So could I have caused some serious damage? What did I do?

      Thanks!

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      Mike 3 years ago

      Thanks eddiecarrara! I drained the tranny and added new fluid. I ran it through the gears several times topping off as I went. The tranny shifted fine after that. Thanks for ur help again!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jerret,

      It's a good idea to start with a trans fluid and filter change, and be sure to completely fill the transmission to the proper level. To do this you will need to run the transmission trough the gears several times, topping it off after each cycle. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

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      Jerret 3 years ago

      I have a 2006 PT cruiser with an automatic trans, the majority of the trans fluid leaked out the other day from a damaged cooler line, I repaired the line and refilled the fluid but it still will not lock in gear, it makes a loud whinny noise and will sometimes go in gear but with very low power and I did notice what looks like air in the fluid (I may have over filled it) any suggestions before I replace or rebuild the whole thing? Is there a specific part on the trans that would cause this? Also I have read I should start by changing the filter?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Nick,

      I think the mechanic did something wrong, something is not right with the installation of the clutch. Can you smell burnt clutch after driving it? I would bring it back asap, because your shaving years of life off the clutch disc. Keep me posted Nick on what you find, thanks.

      Hi Mike,

      Recheck the transmission fluid and top it off, you may have to do this several times because, Yes, you could have got some air stuck in the trans. So top it off and run it through the gears on a short road test and recheck it, do this about 4 times until it's completely full. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

      Sorry about the late response, we're getting a lot of snow up here in the North East so I haven't had much spare time between my full time job and plowing, lol.

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      Mike 3 years ago

      Hi my son has a 1994 for Taurus. He replaced the radiator and forgot to hook up one of the transmission cooler lines till the next day. He drove it about 5 miles and told me the transmission was shifting hard. Is there anyway air got in the line and cause it to shift hard or slip?

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      nick 3 years ago

      Sorry, to answer your question, yes it seems to get worse the more I drive it.

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      nick 3 years ago

      The line from the slave cylinder to the clutch fluid reservoir looks good, as does the clutch fluid. There are no fluids dripping onto my garage floor, although the bottom of the oil pan and bell housing is greasy, probably just oil. I drove the car for a few months before it started slipping the first time, and I want sure how old the clutch was so I had it replaced, and like I said, it did good for just a couple weeks on the new clutch. I hate to have to take it back to the mechanic to have him sort it out.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      OK Pascal, I would start by checking your owners manual on how to check the transmission fluid level. If the level is OK, it will probably be an internal transmission problem because you transmission is losing pressure, it could be a pump, gasket, valve body, etc... Let me know how your fluid looks, thanks.

      Hi Nick, so are you saying that the clutch is fine when the engine is cold and gets worse when the engine warms up? I think your fluid line to the slave cylinder is pinched or twisted. Check the fluid line front the slave cylinder to the clutch fluid reservoir and let me know if you find anything twisted or kinked, check it closely with a flashlight, thanks.

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      nick 3 years ago

      It slips when the car is at operating temperature and I am accelerating. It just started doing it again yesterday. The clutch pedal gets very firm and the distance the pedal needs to travel to disengage/re engage the clutch is very short. It was so bad yesterday, I thought I was going to have to park it and get a ride home, but then after it set for about 30-45 minutes it made the 15 drive home without an incident. I will see if there is an fluids leaking when I park it after work.

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      Pascal Ouendeno 3 years ago

      i mean my if i on kia spectra and put D and accelerate, it wont move till 5 or 7 seconds, somebody said it must be a gear box problem, but i want get better info from someone who knows better cars like u,

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Pascal, I'm sorry, but I will need a little more info about the problem if possible. Did you check the fluid level?

      Hi Nick, when does it slip? What speed? What gear?Accelerating or cruising? Is there any oil dripping from between the bell housing? Let me know Nick, thanks.

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      nick 3 years ago

      I have a 1999 honda civic. The clutch seemed to be slipping so I had it replaced about 2 weeks ago. The mechanic installed a new clutch and pressure plate, and told me the old clutch and pressure plate weren't in very bad condition. The car food fine for 2 weeks and now seems to be slipping again. What could the problem be?

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      Pascal Ouendeno 3 years ago

      Hi eddiecarrara, my kia spectra 2002(automatic) usually shift to neutral the time I am driving after the first 4 or 5 minutes when I on it,need a solution plz.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Conjo83, the most common reason for a whine noise is the pump, the jerking could be from loss of pressure from the pump. What ever is causing this problem seems to be internal and not an easy fix. I recommend having a transmission shop take a listen to it. Keep me posted on what they say, thanks.

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      conjo83 3 years ago

      I have a 2000 olds intrigue, V6. Two times in the past two months I will feel a jerking after driving about an hour or so when shifting 1st and 2nd gear. It will continue the jerking at those gears and make a whine noise for the rest of that trip if I slow down and start up but run fine the rest of the gears. There are no leaks under my car and the transmission fluid level has read full both times this happened.

      Any suggestions on what is going on?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lilylh, if your engine will not rev over 2000 rpm's, I would start by having the catalytic converter checked. Let me know what they find, thanks.

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      Lilylh 3 years ago

      No. The check engine light is not on.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lilylh, Is the check engine light on? It sounds like the catalytic converter is clogged. Let me know about the check engine light, thanks.

      Hi Vic, did you remove the pan and replace the filter? Are all your cables and shift linkage installed correctly? You're losing pressure inside the transmission, all you have to do is figure out why. Let me know about the 2 questions, thanks.

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      vic 3 years ago

      I installed a good trany from another truck it was working fine in other truck , but not seems to slip . I do have right amount fluid proper fluid in it what have I done wrong ?

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      Lilylh 3 years ago

      Hello,

      I have a 2005 Honda Odysey and it gets stuck at 2 rpm. It feels like I'm forcing it too hard. It's my only car so I am still driving it even though I feel there's something wrong . I know i should have it checked out ASAP...What do you think may be wrong?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mary, it sounds like you have either a broken shift cable, the linkage is disconnected, or something is disconnected inside the transmission. I recommend taking it to a shop for a quick look, if they don't see anything obvious, bring it to a transmission specialist. Let me know what you find Mary, thanks.

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      mary 3 years ago

      Hi, I have a question,.I own a 2001 ford focus 5 speed. My gears seem to be stuck on 1st and 2nd gears, it don't go on neutral just up and down. Any suggestions?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Jordan, that great, do you know what caused the wires to break? Just curious, if not, that's OK too, just like to get as much info as possible. Thanks for coming back here to give me an update, it's very much appreciated :)

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      Jordan 3 years ago

      Hey Eddie,

      What my problem ended up being was a few broken wires that wasn't letting the transmission go into overdrive. Thankfully it wasn't the whole transmission and the repair was relaively cheap. Thanks again.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Chris, I would have to say that you have an internal problem, probably with the valve body. I would bring it to a transmission shop to have it checked or a Mercedes Benz dealer. Let me know what happens Chris, thanks.

      Hi Genogeno,

      It sounds to me like you have low compression in the engine. Do you burn oil or see blue smoke out the tail pipe? The engine is what holds the vehicle in place, the clutch is just the connection to the drive-train. If the compression is low, the car will chug slowly down the hill. Let me know if this sounds about right, thanks.

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      genogeno 3 years ago

      I have 2001 Honda Prelude SH. I just replaced the clutch a few days ago. When I park it on a hill, it doesn't hold in gear but starts to chug and slowly roll.

      When I brought it back to the mechanic he said that it was something that was unique to Honda Preludes and that there was no real fix for it.

      I trust my mechanic to be honest, but is his advice accurate?

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      Chris 3 years ago

      Hi, Yes My problem with my Mercedes is that the car accelerates slowly but the arow of the rpm goes high like 4, 5 000 rpm and the car becomes very noisy. There isnt a smooth rise up of the rpm arrow but a big jump from lets say 3000 to 5000.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bill, What you're describing sounds like the catalytic converter is starting to clog or a fuel pump/filter is having a problem. More likely the catalytic converter because of the history and the previous work done on the vehicle.

      If it were the clutch, the RPM would rise and you would lose speed, but your RPM's are dropping and you're losing speed. The smell is probably the catalytic converter getting very hot, probably glowing red. I recommend starting out there, take it for a trip and when you feel the vehicle start to slow down, pull over and take a look at the exhaust, you most likely have 2 catalytic converters, so check both.

      Let me know if this sounds about right Bill, thanks. Hey, by the way, great description of the problem, it really helps in diagnosing when you have good info.

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      BillOB 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      It has been very informative reading your article and comment responses, thanks for sharing! I'm posting because I'm trying to understand the cause of issues I'm seeing with my 2003 manual Mustang GT with 106,000 miles. After driving about 30 miles recently, I started to see loss of power while in 5th gear on the highway. When this happens the RPM's slowly decrease, along with the speed. By going into 4th gear the speed can be regained. Luckily I was close to home, and was able to take backroads the remainder of the trip however eventually the same issue was also seen in 4th gear. At home I noticed a faint burning smell with the hood open.

      I had a similar experience about three months ago although more severe, I had pulled over and noticed a burning smell. The car was towed into the mechanic, where I was informed that the clutch had burnt out and repairs were performed including clutch assembly replacement, new flywheel, new clutch fork, and transmission fluid change. Since then I've taken a bunch of small trips, but 30 miles has been the longest trip since these repairs where this problem unfortunately reoccurred recently. Bummer.

      Repairs this year (not been the best year for the car) also include new engine gasket assembly (due to blown hose and overheat) about a year ago, and a new engine cylinder ignition coil with all new spark plugs about 6 months ago (while driving about 50mph the front of the car had started shaking and the engine light came on).

      I'd appreciate any insights you might have. Thanks, Bill

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jordan, it sounds like you have a problem with the transmission internally or the fluid is low. I would start by reading the owners manual on how to check the transmission fluid level, then see if it low. If it's low, make sure you use the right transmission fluid to top it off. If everything is ok, bring it to a qualified shop, transmission need specialist, not general mechanics to repair them. Let me know if you have more questions, and also what happens at the garage, thanks Jordan.

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      Jordan 3 years ago

      Hey Eddie,

      It sounds like you really know your stuff, so I will give you the challenge of finding out whats wrong with mine, haha. I have a 2000 hyundai accent and the other day while driving 60, the rpms went up out of nowhere to 3000-3500. This happened the other day, but after 10 seconds it went back to normal. Now it stays at that high rpm level.

      During the first 10-15 miles of each trip, the car will drive like it should. Then out of the middle of nowhere, the rpms go up as if the car went back to a lower gear. The car still drives and all, but you can tell its not in the right gear. The engine light hasnt come on or anything, but now Im taking it in on Monday. I was just seeing if you knew roughly what it might be.

      Once again, I thank you for any insight you might have. Have a great weekend!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Chris, so are the engine rpm's going up when you accelerate? os is the engine rpm's rising slowly too?

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      Chris 3 years ago

      Hi, I have a problem with my transmission of my Mercedes Benz CLK convertible 1999.

      When I start the car in the morning the acceleration is perfect, very nice and very fast, goes immediately after i touch the pedal. After the car warms up a little bit is not like this. When I press the pedal the car thinks for a moment and star to accelerate slowly. It is a big problem when I am on the highway and try to get infront of a car. When I press the pedal the car accelerates very slow, the engine gets noisy and me and the chap with the car next me are watching each other strange for 2 minutes :D

      Checked the transmission fluid. It shows that it is full. Even more than it should be.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi JayJay, I recommend checking the fluid again, then see where the fluid is leaking from. In order to top off the transmission fluid, you need to fill it to the top line on the dipstick, then run it through the gears and recheck it, you need to do this at least 3-4 times to fill the transmission properly. Let me know how you make out Jay, thanks.

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      jay jay 3 years ago

      Hi. My 99 tarus didn't want to move in any gears as if it was in N. I added some transmission fluid and it run for a few hours. I noticed it was taking longer to hit 3rd then it should (its automatic) then it just stopped as if its on neutral again. What could this be?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Joe, I don't know much about spec clutches, it's best to read customer reviews on the product. You will need to inspect the flywheel for heat cracks once it's apart. If you don't have a shudder when engaging the clutch, it should be ok, you may just need to scuff up the surface with some sandpaper. Let me know how you make out Joe, and if you have other questions, I'll be right here.

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      Joseph 3 years ago

      Hi, I have a 2010 Mazda MAZDA 3s 2.5l. My clutch recently started slipping one nigh accompanied by a very strong burning tire smell, but that hasn't happened since. I have a new clutch kit already ordered, and was wondering if anyone could tell me if I have to replace my flywheel as well. It changes gears fine just has a slight problem picking up Speed in 3-6 gear, 1-2nd isn't that much of a problem. It starts fine and there is no vibration when I engage or disengage the clutch. My car only has 78k miles on it and there has been several complaints on my car from the OEM clutch prematurely failing. So instead I got a SPEC clutch, also looking for feedback on that clutch kit as well. It's a stage 1.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi bklynsfnst39, I would start by checking the transmission fluid, let it warm up to normal operating temp first, then check the fluid level. Let me know what you find, and thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it :)

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      bklynsfnst39 3 years ago

      1st of all lemme say tht this is a very informative site. I hv read all of the posts, & hv learned a lot of different things.

      Now 2 my prob. My '98 Ford Crown Vic/4.6L, has jus recently put me down. On my way to work it just died. First all the lights went out then it lost power and just stopped. I actually was able to crank it back up, then start to drive it again. But the engine was just revving up very high, sounding as if it wasn't changing gears. then the power was lost again & cut off. Not cranking back up at all. I've been diagnosed that the problem was my alternator. So I fixed the problem the next day put the alternator back in after charging up the battery and then she crank right up and stayed on. I tried to drive it and it would not move at all.I've checked most of the fuses that I knew what has a problem or be the cause of this problem. And they all seem to be fine. Have not checked any relays because I don't know how to check to see if they're good or bad. And have not had any leaks or anything like that so I did not check the transmission fluid.I'm just confused right now and don't know my next move. Trying to get a little advice as in what to do next. Because I really don't want to believe that my transmission has just gone out like that. Mind you the vehicle was running just fine before the alternator died. It was a rebuilt alternator and I got about a year and a half from it. Would like to know your thoughts please. I believe any expert advice would be helpful. Thank you very much.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Frank, I just did a search on your engine, I think you may have coil packs, and you could have one that is reay to shit the bed, let me know if you have wires or coil packs, thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Frank, normally it would trip the check engine light, but not all the time. If you want to see if the wires are bad, try spraying a light mist of water on them as the engine is running, sometimes you can actually see the spark plug wires arcing, but don't use too much water, just a light mist. Let me know what you find Frank, thanks.

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      Frankthetank 3 years ago

      Quick question if its the spark plug wire, would the check engine light come on or not? because my car doesn't have the check engine light on

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      Frankthetank 3 years ago

      Yes this sounds exactly like my problem i will definitely look into it, Thanks for the help and great hub

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Frank, if the engine has a ship or hesitation under a load (like when accelerating) the most common cause is spark plug wires, when spark plugs fail, they usually die instantly, failing spark plug wires on the other hand reak havoc when trying to accelerate, but when driving at an even steady speed, the engine runs smooth. Let me know if this sounds like you problem, thanks Frank.

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      Frankthetank 3 years ago

      Hey Eddie, I have a 2004 mazda 6s 5 speed and as of lately when I go to give it a good amount of gas in gears 2 and 3, (sometimes 4th) the car hesitates or shakes in a way so do you think this could be a spark plug issue? or maybe a fuel injector? because this problem has been bothering me and I want my car to be at full potential again. I haven't been able to figure it out so hopefully you will know what could be wrong. any suggestions will be very helpful thank you.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Shil, I need more information about the problem, is there any codes in the system? does it make any noises? what do you mean it struggles? Hows the fluid level in the transmission? What color is the transmission fluid? Does the transmission fluid smell burnt?

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      shil 3 years ago

      i Hv a automatic tacuma 2007 engine management light comes on when put into reverse then struggles plz help

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Glen, I would try having the transmission fluid changed first, and also let the vehicle warm up before you drive it, extreme cold temperatures can cause a lot of shifting problem, so give it adequate time to warm up. Let me know what happens Glen, thanks.

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      glen 3 years ago

      I just notice a small problem with my car.. maybe big... I was driving it around town last night and it felt like the car had really good response. Idk what the problem was tell i was at a red and took off like norm... first gear fine second gear fine... third gear only goes to 3k RPM and their after i have no more power... RPM's still goes up to 4.5 it doesnt want to shift into 4th... i also do idle my car about 5 -10 minutes and its back in good also shift smoothly

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      epi 3 years ago

      im leaving in manitoba and we have -31c temp. i always having problem in my vehicle,i find my vehicle wont shift in 4th gear and stuck in 3rd, i try to run more faster but the rpm reach the highest mark but still my gear wont shift or change,but if i do idle my car about to 20 minutes,its all back in good and its shift smoothly,my suv is 2002 pathfinder 4x4. hope you can help me to my problem!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Bruce, if the fluid is at the proper level and it still kicks in second, have the mechanic do a transmission service or at least a drain and fill, see if it makes a difference. You may have some some damage to the clutch pack when it was low on fluid. Let me know how you make out, thanks, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here.

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      Juciy Brucie 3 years ago

      Kia 2005 Spectra..had automatic transmission oil changed last October 2013, they did not tighten a gear clamp under the rad properly and it was leaking slowly right up this past 2 weeks

      ..the engine light came on and on these crazy cold days in Toronto Ontario..I would slowly drive from a stop until it caught the 2nd gear. It took about 3 minutes to kick in properly as long as I did not drive to fast the kick in was not to hard.

      Fed up with this I took the car back to the mechanic..he found the faulty gear clamp, fixed it, added a bottle of transmission treatment and topped the trans up with regular red transmission oil.

      It has been working ok these past two days except when the car sifts into 2nd gear. I feel a kick in the car and away she goes, 3rd is no problem and neither is first.

      Question the guy said the problem should go away and if not in a few days add another type of trans additive in a white 8 oz bottle...I asked if I should get the transmission checked he said not now as there is lots of oil in the trans so it should be ok.

      Will the 2nd gear kick go away?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Sure Tj, no problem, if you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to find me :)

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      Tj 3 years ago

      I don't think I did a great job of explaining in detail the problem, but happy it was a simple fix! Thanks so much for taking the time to answer my question!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Tj, that's awesome! i must have misunderstood you, I thought the pedal felt ok, anyways, glad you figured it out without a lot of out of pocket expense :)

      Hi Dan, what was the clutch test, because it sounds like your clutch is slipping? Let me know, and we are talking about a manual trans right?

      Hi Greg, what is the year make and model of your vehicle? Low transmisson oil on a manual trans will not cause it to slip, it would just burn up from lack of lubrication. The manual trans usually has a fill port half way up the side of the transmission, if you remove the bolt, the fluid should be at the fill port level.

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      Greg 3 years ago

      Did not try the clutch test yet . But could it be just an adjustment to the clutch pedal. also how would i check the transmistion fluid on a standard

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      Daniel Gary Bingley 3 years ago

      Hi I have a problem with my car! Did the clutch test went ok! I did just get my car remapped, I believe the map sensor has gone on my car too, but to day I am driving and it's ok but when I put my foot all the way down, some times just the revs go up and I don't move any faster. Do you have any idea?

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      Tj 3 years ago

      Thankfully the problem was a simple, inexpensive fix; the clutch cylinder had run out of fluid. It's up and running again.

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      Tj 3 years ago

      Thanks so much and yes, I will keep you posted.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Ryan, it's sounds like you have a valve body issue, maybe a valve is hanging up. I don't think it has anything to do with you lowering the vehicle unless you unplugged something from the transmission accidentally, I think it's just coincidence. Your best bet is to take it to a transmission shop and have them run some pressure test on the transmission, you might get a quick answer.

      Hey Tj, you're welcome. It just sounds like the disc blew apart or the pressure plate let go, but I'm thinking more the disc because if it were the pressure plate, you would lose the pedal and probably here some metal parts rolling around inside the bell housing. Keep me posted when you figure it out Tj, I would very much appreciate it, thanks.

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      Tj 3 years ago

      No, there was no problem before this ; or I did not think so. It had been frigid here in Canada; -38 C (-18 F??) so I thought the clutch was just really cold, but I was able to put it into gear during that time. When the temperature warmed up a week or so later, and there was still no change in the stiffness of the clutch the last half of engaging it, I realized it was more than just being cold. And then eventually I could not put it into any gear.

      I so appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question. Thank you.

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      Ryan 3 years ago

      Yes I have, I also checked the level again while the car was running and it read normal.. When I get up to about 35-40mph it acts like it's not it gear at all it seems to be neutral, than when I tap the gas a couple of times and get it to it's higher rpms it kicks back in but still in first until it acts like it's topping out, in first gear that is.. I'm not sure if I missput something together in the suspension or arm bars that's messing with the axle. It's front wheel drive btw

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Tj, were you haveing any problems with the clutch slipping before this happened? It sounds like your clutch disc came appart. Let me know Tj, thanks.

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      tj 3 years ago

      I have a 2001 honda crv manual transmission. It has been leaking what we thought was antifreeze as it had a burnt smell after it had been driven. Just the other day when I was going to put the car into first gear, the clutch went easy about half way and then seemed to engage but would not shift into any gear. Doesn't sound like that's a good thing. Wondering your thoughts on what may possibly be the problem. Thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey max, you may have a problem in the valve body, I think it time to have a professional look at it, they can pressure test it and tell you exactly what going on. Keep me posted.

      Hey Ryan, are you checking the transmission fluid level with the engine runnig and the vehicle on flat ground?

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      Ryan 3 years ago

      I have a 97 Buick Skylark 6 cylinder, recently I've been having transmission problems. Let's art off here, it's automatic and a few days ago I dropped the car by taking the springs/coils off, while it was lowered I had no problems with my trans, but when I hired it back to normal that's when I noticed it wouldn't switch to second gear as normal, I dropped the transmission pan and replaced the filter which was in pretty bad shape as we'll as the fluid it's self. I put everything back together the correct way with a new pan seal and filled the line.hen i took out the dipstick to check the level I seen that it read too low, I used one gallon of AutoZone brand fluid. It is still not changing gears and im not sure if the level is my problem or the transmission it's self HELLLP please! Thanks

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      Max 3 years ago

      *out of 2nd gear

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      Max 3 years ago

      Well, it won't come 2nd gear...

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Ok, sounds good max, thanks.

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      Max 3 years ago

      No, I haven't tried to manually shift through the gears... I'll let you know what happens.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Devon, it hasn't 404'd because the information is evergreen and I'm active on it every day. Let me know if the clutch fixed your other problems, thanks.

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      Devon 3 years ago

      I knew it wasn't one problem all in one. And I assumed the syncronizer was bad. But after investigating I can buy a new trans for 400$ and I just got my clutch in today. Hopefully that solves my problem. Also I'm worried about how the completely fried clutch may have affected the flywheel. And this is very informative. I was surprised this page hasn't 404'd because its so old. Haha

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Max, did you try to drive it and manually shift it through the gears? Let me know, thanks.

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      Max 3 years ago

      Hey,

      There’s this truck (1996 chevy 4x4 silverado), it won’t come out of 2nd gear, do to someone added 2 Qt.s of transmission fluid before starting it up and driving it. How can it be fixed? or how can I fix it?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Devon, Second gear is popping out because the syncro is worn, and I'm not sure why you don't have the other gears, but I can absolutely say for certain that replacing the clutch will not fix the transmission problem. You will definitely need internal transmission work. Let me know your thoughts, thanks.

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      Devon 3 years ago

      Hi, I just got a 2007 cobal twith a standard transmission yesterday. While driving I noticed that the transmission was slipping a little. And 2nd gear has been out of the car for a couple months(according to previous owner.) Today I was driving and I only had 1st and reverse. 3,4,5 all just didn't catch at all. I'm almost 100% sure its the clutch but I'm worried if I replace the clutch the 2nd gear issue could cause further damage. And btw I didn't mean 2nd was out from slipping. I cannot drive in 2nd at all. As soon as I shift to 2nd and let off the clutch it will pop right out. Any advice would be very helpful. Thanks!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Sure Sarah, your welcome, keep me posted :)

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      Sarah 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie

      Ok I will thank you!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sarah, so I don't have a definitive answer for you, all I can say is it's probably an engine sensor like a throttle positions sensor or EGR lift sensor, it could even be an ignition module. It just very weird that the check engine light is not coming on. I would have a shop check for a stored DTC (code) sometimes the computer will store a fault in the system but never turn on the check engine light. If you figure this out Sarah, please let me know what the mechanic finds, thanks.

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      Sarah 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie

      The engine doesn't run rough but when I turn the key to start it, it accelerates a bit high for like 5 seconds than idles normally. When it stalled my car temp was normal in the middle so it wasn't overheating or anything. Last night I noticed when I started it to warm it up the inside light was mildly flickering but the headlights weren't neither was the dash lights.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      OK Sarah, but how about with the engine running normal, is the check engine light on?

      When the engine stalls, it's the same as if you were just turning the key to start the engine, all the lights come on, and the computer does a bulb check, so all the lights coming on is normal when the engine stalls.

      Does the engine run rough? Does it accelerate ok? How is it idling when it doesn't stall, normal? What is the engine temp at when it stalls?

      I know we are going back and forth, but I'm just trying to get a clear picture of what's going on. Thanks Sarah.

      Hi Joana, how does the transmission fluid look, is it full, what's the color? Does it smell burnt?

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      Joana 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie, I have an 07 altima. For about a week my car has been making a siren like noise when i released the gas pedal. This morning it had a problem going forward when I pressed the gas. It starts, no sounds when idling so I need some help. I checked hoses, changed the air filter and will check the transmission fluid in the morning.

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      Sarah 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie. The chick engine light comes on and the battery lighht, basically all of them on the dash when it did it. It doesn't make any noise when it shuts off or before it shuts off. It's very quiet. I almost wouldn't be able to tell it st off if the lights didn't come n that's how quiet it is. I wondered about the fuel I had used but I always get it from the same gas station.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Katonja, I would bring it back to the shop that just did the flush and let them know it's worst. They may have not installed the filter properly, or damaged the oring on the filter causing a pressure loss. Let me know what you find Katonja.

      Hi Sarah, is the engine running rough when it's not stalling? Is the check engine light on? There could be many different causes, it could be bad fuel, EGR sticking, o2 sensor, Blah, Blah,Blah. Let me know if the check engine light is on, thanks.

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      Sarah 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie, it just happened the 3 times in one night and didn't happen today at all. But has happened another time and I thought the clutch might not have been in all the way, but it definitely was pushed in all the way the other night. It didn't make any noise or jump like a stall normally does.

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      katonja 3 years ago

      i have a 1994 jeep cherokee the transmission seems to be slipping,i had it flushed which made matters worst,some say they dont think the transmission is totally gone,i did get a new filter when i had it flushed. please help

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sarah, did this only happen twice or is it still doing it?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Chris, if you have the old air filter box complete assemble, I recommend starting with installing that in the winter months. I believe the air going into the engine is too cold and it doesn't have time to warm up causing the throttle to ice (just a thought). It seems like the only logical explanation, but if you do have the old air box, make sure you have everything that goes with it and make sure you plug everything in if there are any sensors (intake air temp sensor). Let me know what you think Chris, thanks.

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      Sarah 3 years ago

      Hello I drive a standard 05 pontiac wave and I just bought it 8 months ago and had the clutch replaced because it was slipping and not stalling. Now tonight it randomly started stalling when it was in 1st and 2nd gear. When I stopped at a stop sign it was in first and shut off. It didn't really stall and jump like a normal stall just shut off and all the lights came on. I had to turn the key to turn it back on again. Than when I stopped at a red light and slowed into 2nd it did the same thing. Do you think this could be the fuel pump or some other problem. What could this be from?

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      Chris 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      I drive a 2007 Honda civic 5 speed with just over 100k km on it. The car runs great in the summer time no problems what so ever. But for the past 3 winters I have been jerking in first gear (I live in Canada). I've learned to counter the first gear jerk but it gets quite annoying dropping the clutch twice just to enter first gear. As soon as I get past that the car runs great until inevitably I have to stop at red light or stop sign and begin the hassle again. As soon as temperatures wam up usually in May my baby runs like nothing was ever wrong. The clutch is clearly fine no slipping in high gear and I'm not a rookie when it comes to driving. I can start in second gear with no jumping or jerking. Any time I tells. Mechanic about my problem they look at me and scratch their head. I always joke that the car hates winter as much as me but it's really beginning to frustrate me. I refuse to go to Honda mechanics huge rip off. Just curious if you have any idea my car would do this only in the winter? I have a short ram intake in it but it's a K&N specifically built for my car. Any advice would be appreciated.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Awesome Mick, glad to help, and thanks for keeping me updated :)

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      Mick Aussie 3 years ago

      Thanks Eddie

      Thank you I will call a transmission shop and I will go from there thank you so much for your advice this is a grate help I will let you no the out come cheers

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mick, thanks for your feedback, it's nice to know I'm appreciated, lol .

      I don't know too much about that tranny, but it sounds like you're losing pressure in the forward gears. If the transmission has a filter, it could have a broken o-ring causing loss of pressure, or it could get more complicated than that, like a pump or a solenoid pack. this is definitely a job for a transmission shop or dealership. Let me know what you think Mick.

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      Mick Aussie 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie you have a grate site you have helped so many ppl along the way your doing a grate job keep it up. Now

      I just brought a 2001 Hyundai lantra . I have a problem with the auto box when it is cold it will drive forwards for about 20 meters and then when it gets warm the gear box slips and I can only drive in reverse the fluid level is correct I check it at normal temp as specifies in owners manual. But I think it could be a forward clutch but I wanted some advice as money is tight before I took it to a shop or brought a new box as I can change the fluid and filter myself or fit a new box and save myself money

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tito, I would have to say that it's in the transmission because if it were the clutch, you would have a problem is all gears. Let me know if that makes sense to you, thanks Tito.

      Hi Ashley, it sounds like the transmission is stuck in two gears at once, is it possible your shift cables are not installed correctly? I would double check to see if they are in teh holders and nothing has come loose. let me know Ashley.

      FYI, changing the engine to a prelude engine is very difficult, once you start a job like this, it becomes a project car, you just start fixing and tweaking forever, hopefully we can figure this one out :)

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      ashley01 3 years ago

      Sorry pressed wrong button...a few weeks ago i replaced the axle a week later i replaced the clutch a week after that the car started to choke on first gear it still goes but slowly almost feels like the gears are wrong but i dnt understand because it takes every other gear just fine its just first it takes to long to go almost like i have to ride first then i get an awful smell of burned clutch but the clutch is new so what can be my problem many mechanics gave me different alternatives but not sure...plz help me plz

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      ashley01 3 years ago

      Hi eddie my name is ashley and reading how u helped others im hoping u can help me to...i have a 1990 honda accord that has an engine swap for a prelube jdm vtec tranny the vtec is not working because i dnt have the proper chip for it but i have a bigger problem.A few weeks ago i ch

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      Tito 84 3 years ago

      Yes the car moves in 1st,2nd and 3rd gear and reverse but when I take the clutch out I can hear like a rattling noise and when I push the clutch in it goes away either on neutral or in gear it does the same rattling noise

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tito, does the car move in 1, 2, 3rd? Does the clutch slip?

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      Tito 84 3 years ago

      I have 94 honda accord lx 5speed I was driving home on the freeway out of no where 5th gear wouldn't go no where besides rev and so does 4th gear is it my transmission or clutch? Please help

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gstar, If the engine is running good, I wouldn't touch the carb. If your engine is running smooth, I don't know what could be causing your mileage problem, fuel leak maybe? Is someone stealing your fuel? I'm a little confused.

      Hey Jim, I have a 66 Comet :) you should go to my profile page and find my poem I wrote about it. Anyways, you need to replace your clutch assembly,(disc, pressure plate, bearing) there is no adjustment that I know of, you just need a good clutch to handle all that raw horsepower :) Keep me posted Jim, I would love to find out how you make out with this, thanks.

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      Jim 3 years ago

      I purchased a 1964 comet with a 302 and top loader 4 spd. It seems to drive fine a little shaking in 1st gear but i think that's me. The problem is when I get on it from a whole shot it don't go but rpm's do if i let off gas a little it takes off. So I don't know if the motor has to much power, clutch adjust or new clutch, could i have your opinion? If you think adjustment what would be proper way to do this? If it needs a clutch it is going to shop.

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      gstar 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      its old car as u know almost 30 yrs old older then me.the engine sounds so smooth, less noise and it starts on first self even after 24 hrs of last run. now i want to deal with the mileage its annoying.its started like 5 days ago and filled it about 13 liter and just ran it below 100 km i think around 70 km. 800cc engine is gulping the petrol like 3000 cc. tell me whats the best to do with it please.one thing, i am gonna open its carburetor this Sunday and engine oil change etc.

      thank you.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Sure Gstar, no problem. How is the engine running? Does it run good driving down the road, does it idle ok? Let me know, thanks.

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      gstar 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      i think blow-by is stopped now it was from oil cap that was the problem in the radiator now got it changed. the engine was over heating and that heat was burning the oil and the transmission i asked some mechanics about the gear box they said the newer models gear would be the same so i can get that easily in good condition.

      now Eddie, another problem is mileage my car is just 800 cc it is doing just 8 km/l petrol. but it needs to be 20avg in city according to the mechanic. now he said if we service the carburetor then we can fix this problem. what do u think is it true.

      thank you Eddie,

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks Craig :)

      Hi Saad, it sounds like there is something in the transmission valve body that is sticking, either a valve or a solenoid. I recommend having a transmission shop look at this before you burn out the transmission. Let me know what happens Saad, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here.

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      saad zahid 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie, I have Toyota Camry 2005 Automatic Transmission . The problem I am facing is when i put the Car gear in reverse mode , It takes 3000 RPM to start moving , Also on highways when the gear is shifted from second to third and onwards it takes more than 5000 RPM to shift the gear . I have replaced the gear oil and filter but the problem is still there .

      Can you please share your thoughts?

      Regards ,

      Saad

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      Craig 3 years ago

      Cheers Eddie ,

      Regards Craig

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gstar, is the blow by coming out the exhaust pipe or out the oil cap? when the engine is warm, does it crank slow and then start, or does it crank a lot until it starts?

      Hi Craig, either the clutch disc is worn, or the pressure plate is weak, either way you will need to replace the clutch assembly to fix the problem. Let me know if you have more questions Craig, thanks.

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      Craig 3 years ago

      Dear Eddie ,

      My citroen c 4 coupe 1.6 Manuel only slips the clutch after the first 3 or 4 miles into the journey and then only slips if you over rev it , it drives fine if you take your time ?

      Have you any thoughts please ?

      Yours Hoping

      Craig

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      Gstar 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      Not overheat i mean to say when it gets to normal temprature and why low compression happens hope u wont say to change the rings or piston.

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      Gstar 3 years ago

      Not overheat i mean to say when it gets to normal temprature

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gstar, sounds like you have some problems. Fuel contamination is not good, you need to drain the tank and repalce all the fuel filters. If you have a lot of excessive blow by, that will cause a hard start condition because of the low compression. Changing the plugs and fuel pump will not help.

      Do you mean the engine is starting to overheat? Check your coolant level and make sure it's topped off. Let me know if this helps Gstar.

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      Gstar 3 years ago

      thank you Eddie for the information regarding slipping transmission of Suzuki Alto SS80S First generation (1979–1984). i think am gonna carry on with it as it is till i cant find any transmission, but one more problem i m facing now is the blow-by issue is it due to unburned fuel goes in or piston rings. i asked my mechanic he said that's not the big issue and said just change spark plugs and fuel pump what do u think, but today i found that if engine gets heated up then car's self starting system struggle's to start the engine and blow-by becomes to much otherwise if its cold it only takes a second to start and blow-by is less please help me out.

      other thing, i feel i will have to clean the fuel system of it cause i got filled my car with bad quality petrol so if u can tell me what things i will have to do to clean it please. i emptied the tank through the tank drain and checked the petrol, it wasn't evaporating even after putting it out in open in an open container for long around 3 hours. thank you.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Mark, thanks for the feedback :) The first thing I would try is changing the fluid with genuine Honda transmission fluid, I'm not sure if will fix your problem but it's better to start with a $100 repair the to jump right in to a transmission removal.

      I say to use Honda genuine fluid because any other brand fluid will cause shifting issues. You know to check your transmission fluid level with the engine off and the car should be on flat ground, right? Just checking :)

      Let me know if you have more questions Mark, and let me know what happens too.

      I have met a lot of people from Australia here on HubPages, can't wait to visit some day.

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      MarkAUS 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Great article, I had very limited knowledge about tranny issues until I read your post so thank you very much. I have a Honda Accord 97 on Auto transmission and it has 205k km on it (Australian model but I assume it is almost identical to the US model). I have had the car for a bit less than two years and the car has been very reliable until yesterday. I have had 1 or 2 second delays on startup recently before the car moves but I didn't take it to my mechanic for a check. Yesterday when I was at a crossroad stoplight, I had a pretty bad slip - rev up to 5000 and the car won't accelerate above 20km/h. I had to restart my engine and push petrol very gently to get the gear working (and it worked fine once it reached 3rd/4th gear). Plus there is humming sound on Park gear (and 2k+ rpm) when I start my car now. It was almost like the 'sounds like low transmission fluid' video you posted.

      I read your article last night some other videos, and also checked my manual. I warmed up my car today before I check my fluid - car popped out of gear and stopped in the middle of a light - pretty scary. Restarted and got my car back to garage and checked my fluid, its about half way between the low and high marks. Colour is brown though - not pink. Any suggestion what it could be? I suspected that it was low fluid before I checked but now I am thinking worn interior parts.

      Thanks Eddie, very much appreciate your opinion on this.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Gstar, the syncro is worn and the only fix is to replace is, sorry for the bad news, but maybe a transmission shop can help you out. Let me know what you decide to do.

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      gstar 3 years ago

      hi eddie

      i have a old car Suzuki Alto SS80S First generation (1979–1984). the problem is its 3rd gear pops out when i increase the rpm by pressing the accelerator harshly otherwise if i increase the rpm gradually it does not slip out. now if i want to drive it harshly i drive it by holding the gear stick to stop popping please provide me the solution cause i cant find new gear box for this old car. thanx

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dustin, you clutch is slipping. Don't wait any longer to get it fixed because you're on the verge of being stranded. Let me know what you decide to do, or if you have any other question, I'll be right here :)

      Hi Tony, The first thing I would do is check the transmission fluid, on Hondas, you check the transmission fluid level while the car is on flat ground with the engine OFF. Just pull the dipstick, and see where the fluid is at on it. If you're low on fluid, use only genuine Honda transmission fluid to fill it to the full line. The drive it around the block and check it again, with the engine OFF. Do this until the transmission fluid is up to the full mark on the dipstick. Let know what you find Tony, and if you have more question, I'll be right here, thanks.

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      Tony Sisa-at 3 years ago

      I need an answer ASAP ):

      So i started driving and the car (honda accord 1999 ex) was switching from gear 1 to gear 2 and during the switch, i didn't know it was slow since its kinda cold and the car switches gear slow. So it reved up pretty high to around 4-5 rps or whatever that 1-8 number is on the left. after to gear 2 it was all a disaster after. The car would not stay up with the RPS , when it usually stays around 2-3 RPS. Now it just goes pretty low around 1 when i left go of the gas even on gear 1, 2, or 3. So when i slow down and let go of the gas, it shutters and down shifts then up shift since it wasnt suppose to. This is my second transmission and i have no clue how much it was used but it was a used transmission. Maybe i blew it up or something? or maybe it hit its mileage on the transmission or something. I really don't know how transmission really work but i know it has to do with the transmission as I had this problem but wasn't initially from revving it too much when it was switching gears. Any knowledge or solution would help. Thanks so much! Hope its not a costy thing.

      i will paypal $5 im that desperate. THanks so much , you do so much for ppl for answering their questions. Its very relieving, you are a great person. THanks again.

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      Dustin 3 years ago

      My manual 5 speed 1997 Mitsubishi mirage is slow at taking off. Gears seem to be shifting fine. Just takes awhile for my car to catch up. But once it gets up to speed it's fine. Also it's hard to go up hills. Why is my car doing this?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marie, I'm glad you are at least considering it, we are not suppose to talk about our income here, but let's just say I can almost make my truck payment each month with my hubs, and I'm a low income maker here :) Just saying. If you have a hobby, talent, or gift, there are a lot of people who want your advice on how they can do it too. Everyone has something they can share to help other people, at first you may think it a silly idea, but try it, and see how it grows. You are a great writer Marie, and I think you would have a lot of fun, but enough said, hope to see you here on HubPages, if you do, I'll be your first follower :) Take care Marie, and if you need any automotive advice, you know where to find me :)

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      Marie Sharay 3 years ago

      You're right Eddie, making money from writing does sound a little far fetched, lol. Not so much the writing part, but the making money with it...haha. Who knows...maybe I'm supposed to be writing the book, not illustrating it! I will take your advice though and look around these HubPages and check it out. Perhaps you will be hearing more from me.......lol

      Thanks so much! :D

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marie, that really sucks :( Have you ever thought about writing to put a few extra bucks in your pocket? I know it sounds far fetched, but you really sound natural when you write, and your grammar is awesome! You won't make money over night, maybe not even in the first few months, it really all depends on how much effort you put into it.

      Look around here on HubPages and see what people write about, it cost nothing to join and there is a whole learning center on how to get started. Just a thought :) Anyways, if you do decide to start writing here, let me know and I can help you if you have questions, if not, that's ok too :)

      Take care for now Marie, and if you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to find me.

      Eddie

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      Marie Sharay 3 years ago

      I would love nothing more than to fix this little truck up and keep it, but the plain and simple truth is, I have zero dollars. Honestly, I don't even have next months insurance payment for it....lol. So, unfortunately, putting a new clutch in really isn't an option at this moment in time.....Perhaps I can sell it "as is" and get a little Christmas money in my pocket....lol.... :D

      Thanks so much for your help Eddie...I really appreciate it!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marie, You are very welcome, I think, lol.

      If the truck isn't in bad shape, why not put a clutch in it :), it would cost about $500-$700, that's one months truck payment for me lol. Is there a lot more wrong with it? It seems like is would still be agood little truck, plus you could sell it for more money if it's running and riding good. let me know Marie, thanks.

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      Marie Sharay 3 years ago

      Hello Eddie and thank you so much for your reply.....sort of, lol! I was really hoping you were going to tell me it was some small issue elsewhere, and not the clutch that had to be replaced....ah well. Perhaps I can sell it for parts and recoup the bit of money I spent on it. :)

      You and your hub pages are awesome!

      Thanks again for replying, and have a great rest of your day.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marie, great question, and I'm sorry for such a late response, you're probably thinking I blew you off or something, lol, no just didn't see your comment come in, anyways.

      Yes, it sounds like your clutch is either worn out or you have oil on it from a leak. Sometimes the rear main seal (on the engine) or the input shaft seal ( on the transmission) will leak inside the transmission bellhousing and soak the clutch disc and pressure plate with oil.

      If the clutch disc is worn out or the pressure plate is weak from age, the clutch will start to slip as soon as you put a lot of pressure on it like when you're going uphill or getting on the highway. Either way Marie, you'll need to replace the clutch as soon as possible, you don't want to overheat the flywheel. Let me know if this helps or if you have more questions or concerns Marie, and I'm sorry about the late reply, have a great day :)

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