Dan Ferrell writes about do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair. He has certifications in automation and control technology.
Car vibrations and noises are not only irritating but can be the sign of possible serious engine, suspension, or driveline problems, making it hard to pinpoint the exact source. Still, some common problems in these areas show up time and again, making them easier to diagnose.
To help in your diagnostic, try to get as much information about the symptoms. This can help you locate the source of the vibration or noise faster. For example, ask yourself these questions:
- Is it a vibration or noise?
- Is it a vibration that can be felt or just heard?
- Can I tell from what part of the vehicle the noise or vibration is coming from?
- Does the noise or vibration happens at a certain vehicle or engine speed?
- Does the noise or vibration happen only during acceleration?
Pay attention to the tachometer, speedometer on the dashboard, and how the accelerator affect the symptoms, if at all. Use these devices as diagnostic tools during the next test.
Following the test, you'll find listed some of the most common noises and vibrations you can hear or feel along with their potential sources. These vibrations and noises are categorized in relation to engine speed, acceleration, or vehicle speed to make the problem easier to diagnose and fix. These categories may relate to the results of your test or the information you've gathered from the symptoms.
1. A Test to Help You Isolate a Vibration or Noise Source
2. I Can Hear a Noise or Feel a Vibration at Certain Engine Speeds
3. I Can Hear a Noise or Feel a Vibration When Accelerating
4. I Can Hear a Noise or Feel a Vibration at Certain Vehicle Speeds
Are There More Vehicle Vibration and Noise Sources?
1. A Test to Help You Isolate a Vibration or Noise Source
Vibrations are usually hard to isolate to a particular area or system of the vehicle. But here's a common test you can do yourself that might help you locate the potential source.
- Let's say that you've noticed a vibration that occurs when your vehicle reaches a speed of 40 mph.
- Chose a road with low traffic and bring your vehicle up to a speed of 50 mph.
- Shift the transmission to neutral and let the vehicle coast down to 40 mph.
- If the vibration is still there, more likely the source of the problem is one or more of the wheel-tire assemblies.
- If the vibration is gone, continue with the test.
- Notice the engine rpms when your vehicle reaches a speed of 40 mph.
- Go back to your garage and let the engine idle.
- With the transmission in Neutral or Park, bring up the engine to the same speed it reached while driving at 40 mph.
- If the vibration is not felt, then the problem is in a driveline component (drive shaft, rear differential, rear or front axles, CV joints, wheel bearings).
- If you still can feel the vibration, the source is in the engine itself or one of the engine accessories. Among the possible sources of vibration or noise are engine mounts, accessories, drive belts, and harmonic balancer condition.
2. I Can Hear a Noise or Feel a Vibration at Certain Engine Speeds
Within the engine compartment, engine accessories, engine mounts, hoses and other devices can become noisy or even be the source of vibrations when loose, worn or broken.
1. Engine accessories
An engine accessory that becomes loose from its mounting bolts or a mounting bracket that breaks can produced a noise at any engine speed, especially when the device is driven by a belt like the alternator, steering pump, or air conditioning compressor.
2. Engine Drive Belt
Engine drive belts can also become noisy when worn or loose. Unlike engine accessories, a drive or serpentine belt can become loud at engine speeds ranging between 20 and 40 mph. However, a noisy belt can become quiet at engine speeds above 40 mph.
3. Engine Mounts
A grinding noise or vibration while the vehicle is moving at a steady speed (usually at engine speeds up to 30 mph) may come from a loose or broken engine mount, depending on its exact location and how close it is to engine accessories.
Often, problems with an engine mount can produce a jerky movement of the engine upon starting. You may even see the engine moving. Other times, you may actually feel the movement or vibration from behind the wheel.
4. Vacuum Hoses
A problem that may cause an engine to vibrate or make noises hard to hear is a loose, disconnected or torn vacuum hose. Vacuum leaks can easily disrupt the proper air fuel ratio the engine needs and lead to noticeable engine vibrations.
Most vacuum leaks are felt as a vibration during idle and tend to disappear at higher engine speeds, but can lead to driveability problems you may identify and use them to isolate the source of the problem.
If you can feel the engine vibrating at idle, check that all vacuum hoses are properly connected and in good condition.
5. Valve Tapping
Valve tapping is not as common as other engine sounds but it can happen when a valve or a valve train component is in need of adjustment or replacement. The noise may also occur after doing some engine repairs.
You may hear a clicking sound from behind the wheel that increases or goes away at higher engine speeds. The source of the problem can be a push rod, rocker arm, sticking valve or collapsed valve lifter.
3. I Can Hear a Noise or Feel a Vibration When Accelerating
Just like engine speed, other noises or vibrations can be heard or felt when depressing the accelerator and stop when vehicle speed becomes steady. You may be dealing with bad universal joints, axles, CV joints or chassis problems.
1. Universal Joints
Universal joints can be a source of noise and vibration when they develop problems or wear out. This problem affects large rear-wheel drive, 4WD and AWD vehicles using a drive shaft assembly.
Depending on the severity of the problem, worn universal joints can become noisy when accelerating at speed ranges above 30 mph; a driver can also feel a vibration during acceleration at any driving speed. When a problem can cause a shift in the proper angle of a universal joint, a vibration may be felt at low speeds.
2. Rear and Front Axles
Front axles transfer rotating power from the differential to the front wheels, while rear axle assemblies transfer rotating power to the rear wheels.
Axle gears and, more commonly, bearings and CV joints are a common source of noises when worn or damaged. Usually, you'll hear a noise or vibration during acceleration at speeds above 20 mph. Sometimes at even high speeds. Watch the next video for an example of a CV Joint going bad and causing vibration at high speeds.
Chassis components, specially around the rear of the vehicle, can be a source of noise and vibration when worn or loose. Sometimes, they can be heard during acceleration at relatively low speeds, usually above 20 mph.
4. Constant Velocity Joints
Front drive axles connect to the front wheel hubs and wheels through constant velocity (CV) joints (ball joints) to transfer rotating power to the wheels.
Ball joints also allow an axle to move at angles while still transferring rotating power as the vehicle travels over road imperfections and bumps and rounds corners.
This constant movement of the joints can eventually wear them after years of operation. This can lead to audible noises or vibrations.
If a CV joint is worn or damaged, you may hear them as you accelerate.
5. Automatic Transmission Noise
An automatic transmission can produce various types of sounds coming from an equal number of problems. You may hear grinding, whirring, or whining noises from bad gears, torque converter, bearings, and, sometimes, because of low oil level.
However, a worn bushing, located at the end of the extension housing can produce a noise during acceleration or deceleration at speeds above 30 mph.
4. I Can Hear a Noise or Feel a Vibration at Certain Vehicle Speeds
Tires, wheel bearings, CV joints and drive shafts can become sensitive to vehicle speeds when certain problems arise.
1. Wheel and Tires
Many tire problems can show up as noises or vibrations. Here are the ones you are more likely to encounter:
- Lack of proper balance: This is perhaps the most common vibration issue coming from a wheel and tire assembly. An unbalanced wheel translates into more weight on one side than the other. The vibration may be felt at vehicles speeds of 20 mph and above.
- Uneven wear: When they develop uneven wear, tires can also produce vibration at vehicle speeds above 30 mph.
- Radial runout: Also, a tire or wheel with radial runout can produced the same effect. Radial runout refers to a tire rotating in an inaccurate circle due to an unequal distance from the center axis of rotation to the edge of the wheel or tire. Radial run out can produce a vibration at about 20 mph and above.
- Lateral runout: Similar to the previous issue is lateral runout, the side-to-side movement of the tire. However, the vibration is usually felt at 60 mph and above.
- Bad tire body: Faults in the tire body can also lead to vibration issues. For example, separation of the internal strands, a damaged belt, or road impacts that may damage the tread or sidewall.
- Bad alignment: Also, wheels out of alignment and worn tires can produce a whining noise.
Usually, front tire vibration is felt on the steering wheel, while rear tire vibration can be felt around the center and rear of the vehicle.
2. Wheel Bearings
Worn, dried or damaged wheel bearings can also become noisy. A wheel bearing allows the wheel and tire assembly to turn freely around the wheel hub assembly.
A bad wheel bearing can produce a whining noise at any vehicle speed.
3. Drive Shaft
On models with rear-wheel drive, AWD or 4WD, the drive shaft and universal joints that help transfer rotating power from the transmission can also be a source of noise or vibration due to runout, imbalance or wear issues.
A drive shaft spins faster than the wheels and, at high gears, it equals engine speed. So a drive shaft should be perfectly balance and straight.
Manufacturers may use balancing weights, just like they do in wheels, to balance a drive shaft. If one or more of the balancing weights is lost or road impact distorts the drive shaft, audible and physical vibration can result, usually at vehicle speeds above 40 mph.
However, a grinding noise coming from under the vehicle can point to worn out or damaged universal joints, located at either end of the drive shaft.
Are There More Vehicle Vibration and Noise Sources?
There are many more vehicle vibrations and noise sources not touched upon here. For example, when problems arise in specific areas like the brake system (rotor runout), transmission issues (torque converter problems, chattering clutch, low fluid level), or the engine (misfires). Those outlined here are some of the most common and hard to diagnose, but now you can get to the source faster and, hopefully, will help you decide to make the repair rather sooner than later, specially on those situations where safety may be an issue. Whatever the source of the noise or vibration your vehicle may be experiencing, though, remember to take note of the conditions under which the problem occurs: vehicle, engine, and acceleration speed. This will help you diagnose the problem faster. And making a repair sooner rather than later will prevent the vibration or noise from turning into an unsafe driving condition and costly repair.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
Question: I have a 2004 chevy Tahoe and I'm getting a shuttering/vibrating sound when I brake and go over dips in the road. I cant find the source... Any ideas?
Answer: Usually, this is caused by uneven wear of brake pads, rotor, or dried caliper bolts. Visually check the assembly; manually turn the wheels and check for any odd sound.
Question: I have a 2011 Tucson SUV with 150,000 km. In the last few weeks, when driving above 100 km/hr (62 mph), a loud sound is heard, including some shaking. This happens intermittently. And when I brake or stop and then head back on the highway, it appears to correct itself. Any ideas as to what this loud sound in my 2011 Tuscon could be?
Answer: The problem could be coming from one of the tires or wheels. Check everyone for a loose component or something similar in the assembly that might be throwing the wheel off balance. Usually, this happens on a tire or wheel with lateral runout.
Question: I have a 2009 Mustang V6 automatic with a noise at exactly 80mph, and then it goes away at about 83mph; this is consistent, and only upon acceleration through that speed. Now the diff/gears have been changed; a full rear-end rebuild kit, and new carbon fiber DS. The noise appears to come from the front of the driveline, not the rear. None of these changes has eliminated this noise, which sounds more like a vibration/grinding rather than anything broken or squealing. Any thoughts?
Answer: The only thing that comes to mind is a drive shaft runout.
Question: My 2012 Lincoln MKS with 163,000 miles has developed a scraping/grinding/vibrating noise coming from the left front. Initially most noticeable at low speeds while turning left. It now can be felt and heard while driving straight and accelerating until up to speed, then no noise or vibration. The brakes, left wheel hub, and strut assembly are all new. Any ideas?
Answer: Since you replaced the wheel hub, I'm assuming there's a new wheel bearing as well, if not check that. Check the CV joints for damaged; if the boot is torn, make sure to check the wheel bearing as well.
Question: My '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee vibrates when it's idling and when it accelerates, especially after 20 and 50 mph and when it goes uphill. I did your tests, and it didn't vibrate in neutral, and nothing changed since it's already vibrating it's idling. What could be the issue?
Answer: I'm assuming this is an audible vibration that you can hear when your Jeep is idling and when it goes at 20 and 50mph. Loose or broken engine mounts can cause vibrations, and this can also affect other components. Check the mounts and other accessories when your idling. The source of the vibration may be difficult to determine because any of the front end components can be a source.
Question: I have a 2007 Ford Edge, I am getting a thumping noise coming from the center console when accelerating between 20 mph and 40 mph. Should I be looking at the wheels or drive axles?
Answer: Seem like there's some wear in the drive axles.
Question: I have a 2007 Bentley flying spur. There is a clicking sound like a spring releasing only when in a curve over 30 mph. Noise is heard from behind the break and gas pedals area and can be felt in both pedals. The mechanic made me change all upper and lower control arms, and noise is still there. No noise when driving straight. Only in curves and winding roads. It started a month ago and is getting worse. Sometimes ESP light comes on when noise appears. What could be the problem?
Answer: This is a wild guess. There could be a problem related to one of the front wheel sensors – possibly a mechanical fault affecting the operation of the sensors themselves (and ABS assembly), hence the ESP light. You may want to visit a service shop that specializes in Bentley for a proper diagnostic.
Question: I have a 2013 Durango that makes a vibration noise under the hood only after 50 mph?
Answer: Check the tires. This is the most common issue at this vehicle speed, along with suspension components.
Question: I have a 2014 RWD Auto BMW 328i with 72000 miles (115,872.77 km). On P/N between 1200-1400rpm, the car has a slight vibration which can be felt through the steering wheel. During driving, once I get up to speed to between 35-50mph, the rpm is between 1200-1400 range. When I try to accelerate without downshifting, the entire steering wheel buzz/vibrate badly. What do you think could be wrong?
Answer: This can be a tire balance or out of round issue. If you've swapped tires, check how much different they are from the factory set. Try rotating the tires and see if this changes anything. Other problems include sticky brake calipers, especially on vehicles with about 75,000 miles (120,700.8 km); also, a drive shaft with brinnelled universal joints may also cause this issue.
Question: My 2000 Chrysler Cirrus makes a loud and constant whining or screeching noise when I get the car speed above 40 mph. Any thoughts on what the problem could be?
Answer: Try to duplicate the symptom. With the engine at idle, increase engine speed to about 2000. If you hear the whining, it could be the steering pump or assembly. Otherwise the noise may come from the transmission. Hope this helps.
Question: I have a 2015 Chevy Silverado. I have a rattle vibration that seems to be coming from the right passenger side under the hood. I took the truck to a local Chevy dealer. Two hours later they said they can't find the problem. Keep an eye on it if gets worse come back. It doesn't happen in neutral at any speed. But it's most noticeable when lightly pressing the gas pedal and keeping a constant speed. Disappears after accelerating. What could be the problem?
Answer: Check the motor and transmission mounts. Look for cracked, loose mounts or with rough edges that may indicate damage.
Question: I hear a vibrating sound when accelerating at around 2 rpm, and then after it stops. The car feels normal. I have a 2014 Chevy crude with about 47000 miles. It did the same thing a few years ago, and the dealer said it was a loose bolt on the engine mount. What do you think?
Answer: Check for worn or loose parts attached to the rear of the chassis.
Question: I have a 2005 Toyota Sequoia. When I go over 55 mph, it starts roaring and vibrating. As soon as my foot lets off the gas, even if I’m not accelerating, the roaring stops immediately. Any thoughts?
Answer: Usually, a vibration at around this speed is related to tires out of balance. Have the tires checked first.
Question: I have a 2010 Holden Barina hatchback. And my car gets loud and can feel vibration at speeds between 55 and 70 km. What might be some potential problems?
Answer: Usually this is related to out of balance tires, or in need of alignment. But sometimes problems with the suspension can also lead to this issue, like control arm bushings.
Question: I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 5.7L Hemi. I put a new used engine about 3 months ago with 120,000 miles on it. The engine is good. And about one month ago, it started to make a humming noise under the driver side every time I accelerate more than 35-40 mph. I put a new used front differential a week ago but it still makes the same noise. What could it be?
Answer: This could be a worn or damaged universal joint or front axle bearing. I wish I could be more specific.
Question: I have a Mazda 5 MPV. When accelerating on low, it has a vibration sound like gas can't get through and loses power. I step harder and the vibration is gone. Would you have any idea what the problem is?
Answer: It sounds like not enough fuel is getting to the injectors. Make sure the fuel filter is not clogged. Also, you may want to try checking for fuel pressure. This other post may help you:
But it’s a good idea if you have the repair manual for your model. It’ll tell you how to hook a pressure gauge and the specs.
Question: I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra with less than around 65,000 miles. The car battery died in December and then last month it started making horrific scraping sounds (like when you run over a hard snow pile). I went in and got new rotors and brake pads. The car is now making a what I can best describe as a vibration sound. Do you think it could be something with the rotors? The sound seems to be coming from the front tires.
Answer: Make sure the brake shields or something in the brake assembly is not bent, loose or damage. The sound may also come from a bad wheel bearing. Rotors may produce a vibration sound when warped. A loose component in the brake assembly like the calipers can also lead to vibration. If the sound is consistent throughout any speed range, there could be a bad motor mount that is making the engine vibrate. Hope this helps.
Question: I have a 2011 Chevy Cobalt, and it's started to make a faint vibrating/humming sound when in motion. No specific speed, just any time the car is moving. It's coming from the front but I don't know if it has something to do with the front tires or engine. I know nothing about cars, any ideas?
Answer: If you only hear or feel the noise when the car is moving, the problem can be either on the tires, wheel assembly or the transmission.
Check the tires for signs of uneven wear (faulty alignment); then check rotors and brake pads for signs of grease or oil contamination.
Raise one of the front tires and grasp the top and bottom of the tire; then try wobbling the wheel and tire back and forth; you should notice very little wobble or nothing; otherwise, the wheel bearings are worn or damaged. Repeat the test on the other front tire.
If the problem just started and you can't find the source of the problem, you might want to have the alignment checked before it gets worst and you need to replace the tires.
Question: My Volvo v50 started making a low humming noise at all speeds really but louder on different rougher road surfaces. I could feel a vibration through the front passenger footwell only at first. Now the noise has gotten louder and I can feel the vibration through the driver side floor and steering wheel. Why would my Volvo emit a low humming noise?
Answer: If you can feel the vibration at all speeds (when the vehicle is moving), check for tire or wheel radial runout, or a bad wheel bearing.
If you can feel the feel or hear the noise increase with the car's engine speed (car not moving) when you accelerate or decelerate, check for a loose or broken engine accessory. Pop the hood open and idle the engine and take a look at all the accessories that run with the drive belt.
If you can feel the vibration on the road (car moving) during acceleration or deceleration, check for a bad CV-joint and faulty bearings.
Question: Does anybody know why my car is shuddering under acceleration? I have a 2005 Ford Focus, a front-wheel-drive car that has a shuddering upon acceleration in a straight line in every gear (manual). I’ve put a brand new axel/CV joint in, yet it seems to have gotten a little worse even. Does anyone have any ideas?
Answer: Check the motor mounts too. Sometimes a slipping transmission may cause this problem as well.
Question: I just got a 2010 Mazda, used, and didn't hear this when I was test driving. But when I accelerate, my car makes a noise (not too loud but I'm still worried), and it sounds tinny, like metal, shaking or vibrating when I accelerate. I think it's coming from the front. My steering doesn't shake. They said they replaced belts and other stuff. Do you have any idea what the problem could be? It's mostly in the 25 -40 mph range.
Answer: This may be a loose belt or accessory. See if you can locate the source. Open the hood and raise engine speed while at idle. Make sure the parking brake is engaged. If the noise only happens while the vehicle is moving, the problem might be in one of the wheel assemblies.
Question: My truck has a loud, grinding vibration that starts around 35-40 mph but will go away if I put the vehicle in neutral. What could this be?
Answer: It's possible the problem is with the output shaft bearing. If you have been able to hear the noise while engaging the clutch from neutral the problem may be in the input shaft bearing. Have the problem properly diagnosed before doing any repairs, though.
Question: So I am getting vibration from the front end that starts around 25 mph, and the steering wheel gets a little shaky around 50 mph. I don't feel a grinding but more of a straight consistent vibration. I know that the struts need to be replaced and I figure that it could also be the ball joints. And when hitting any bumps, it kind of feels like it is jarring the front end a little. Would you have any other ideas of what my vibrating struts could be?
Answer: The jarring may come from the bad struts. Depending on your particular model, this type of vibration is also produced by galled universal joints because of high loads or poor lubrication; tire or wheel radial runout.
Question: Hey there, I have a 2007 Toyota RAV4, manual, AWD. My car vibrates and there’s a noise at the lower speeds of each gear when accelerating for the first 5mph or so. Once I get to a higher speed on each gear the vibration and sound go away. What do you think this could be?
Answer: There could be several possibilities. Engine or transmission mounts faulty. If the noise is coming from the transmission (no noise when revving the engine with the clutch disengage), the problem might be low fluid, worn (counter gear) bearings, bad speedometer drive gears. the noise may come from the engine or clutch as well. If the noise happens when revving the engine in neutral, pop the hood open and see if you can locate the area or part of the engine making the noise.
Question: I have a 2008 Subaru Forester and I am hearing a vibrating sound or pinging sound which sounds like its coming from the engine. I can hear it when idling or increasing speeds. What could it be?
Answer: The problem could be in the fuel or ignition system. This post may be able to help you:
Question: I have an Alfa Romeo 146. There is a vibration in 5th gear only when accelerating. What would cause my Alfa Romeo to vibrate when accelerating?
Answer: One or more tires may be out of balance or a problem in the suspension.
Question: I have 2015 BMW 640i with 52000 miles. The car has a slight vibration in the footwell of the car at various speeds. I have had the rear tyre replaced and balance carried out. BMW has advised they could not find any issues. What could it be?
Answer: There could be several possibilities. If this is an audible vibration (you can hear it but not feel it), there could be a loose or broken suspension component or wheel bearing problem, or axle bearing or gear issue. If this is a mechanical vibration (you can feel the vibration), the tire or wheel has a radial runout problem; also, make sure the new tire is of the same size as the other ones. Have the brake assembly checked to make sure there's not something loose or broken that is causing trouble.
Question: I have a 2009 Honda CRV. I hear a vibration sort of noise while accelerating almost every time between 1.4-1.6 RPM. Does not happen while my foot is off the gas. I have new tires and just replaced the spark plugs. Could it be an issue with the transmission or something else?
Answer: Perform the test described in the first section of the post. That'll help you isolate the problem to a narrower section of the vehicle, and help you locate the source of the noise-vibration.
Question: I hit the curb at 50 mph on the motorway. My tire blew out and I replaced it with a new tire. Ever since the incident, I can hear a slow whirling noise; it only happens at 50 mph then disappears at 60 mph and above. Any clues to what this might be?
Answer: There could be problem with a wheel bearing.
Question: I have a 2013 Subaru XV, and I am hearing a knocking sound from the front and a little vibration from underneath the car while decelerating to a speed below 20KM/H and RPM 1000-1200. No sound while idling or at a higher speed of 20KM/H. It happens usually in the morning or after the car is stopped for more than 3 or 4 hours. The knocking sound seems to disappear after driving for around 30 minutes. What could it be?
Answer: It seems like the engine has a piston slap sound. This happens on a cold engine because of too much clearance between the piston skirt and the cylinder wall. Similar to this is carbon buildup on top of the piston or top of the combustion chamber, making these two areas to make physical contact, which usually produces a click sound.
You may be able to locate the area of the sound using a length of rubber hose. Put one end against your ear and the other at the side of the engine. Even if the sound doesn’t seem to be there when idling, you may be able to hear it with the hose. Hope this helps.
Question: I have a Lexus RX300, and I am hearing a noise coming from my wheels on speed. What could be the cause?
Answer: Have the wheel bearings checked. When they start to wear out, they become noisy.
Question: I have a 2011 VW Jetta automatic, and it was making this vibration. I can feel it in my pedal. But I got an oil change, and it isn’t as loud or frequent. And it’s now sounding like it happens when I slow down from 50 mph to come to a stop. It has 102380 miles. What could be the problem?
Answer: Have the CV joints, half shaft and tire balance checked. Any of these could be causing trouble.
Question: I have a 2001 Acura MDX. 240,000 miles. I'm beginning to hear a loud hum from the front Steering? Axle? It usually begins as you slow down and decelerate.
Answer: This could be the lock up clutch sticking. It may be bad, but it may also come from low transmission fluid. If you haven't changed the fluid in the last three years, you may want to try that first.
Question: I have a 2014 Ford Escape 2.0L Ecoboost and I have a vibration. I first went to get the wheels balanced, but they were passed the wear bar, so I got 4 new tires. I still have a vibration. I mostly notice it when maintaining speeds between 40-45 mph uphill. Usually when accelerating. But I don’t get a vibration all the time. Is it something other than tires?
Answer: Usually, this is caused by bad universal joints (faulty angles). Have both checked if necessary.
Question: Regarding the DS runout, I did consider that originally, as this noise started with the Ford OE 2-piece DS, then continued when I changed to a 1-piece aluminum shaft, and continued when I just switched to a 1-piece carbon fiber shaft with a new flange adapter plate. That's why I'm so 'lost' in solving this. Are there other possibilities?
Answer: I wouldn’t discard a possible issue with a torque converter; a trans mount problem, maybe not. Have you considered a problem with airflow as the source of the problem at that speed?
Question: I have a 2008 Chevrolet Captiva. My engine is shaking, making a different noise, and putting out black smoke. What is the problem with my Chevy Captiva?
Answer: It's possible there's too much fuel going into the cylinders. This other post may help:
Also, download trouble codes, even if the engine light is not on. There could be a pending code that can help you here.
© 2018 Dan Ferrell