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DIY Toyota Camry Radiator Replacement (With Video)

Hardlymoving writes about do-it-yourself automobile maintenance on various makes and models.


Replacing a Radiator

Most radiators in modern automobiles, including the Toyota Camry, are made of aluminum and plastic. Their average lifespan is 7–10 years when properly maintained.

When you detect a leak in your radiator, you should replace your radiator instead of trying to repair it or adding a stop-leak fluid to the cooling system. Hairline cracks in the plastic cannot be repaired and usually indicate that the structure of the plastic has been compromised by the heat and pressure of the coolant. Also, a leak may appear where the plastic is connected to the aluminum. The glue or sealant used to maintain a watertight seal may break down, causing a leak even while the radiator appears perfectly fine.

You can remove the old radiator and install a new one in approximately 1.5 hours with no special tools. In addition, you can do the removal-and-installation process outlined here above the car; that is, you don't need to lift the car up and get under it to remove the splash pan and lower radiator hose.

If the radiator failure was due to contaminated, worn-out coolant, drain any residual coolant from the engine block and consider replacing the thermostat. The upper and lower radiator hoses, in most cases, do not need to be replaced on the Camry.

Choosing a Radiator

Most non-OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) aftermarket radiators can be purchased for approximately $100. If you want the absolute best radiator, perhaps better than the factory original, get Koyo or Denso brand. Koyo and Denso are OEM suppliers for Toyota and Honda. Of course, Koyo is not cheap.

When purchasing a replacement radiator, ensure all the ports on the replacement match those on the original radiator, with new brass fittings for the transmission supply and return lines. Ensure the bracket mounts for the two fan shrouds match as well. Some replacement radiators do not come with a drain port and plug, but the better ones do.

Use Toyota (Pink) Coolant, Not Green Coolant

All the Camry radiators I have seen that failed and had to be replaced had been using at least some green coolant (ordinary non-brand-specific), rather than Toyota-brand pink coolant. Some had some original pink coolant in their coolant reservoir, while the cooling system itself was green with signs of residual pink.

If you have switched from the factory pink to green, flush the system thoroughly with water before introducing a different-colored coolant. Better yet, stick with the Toyota pink coolant. I believe mixing different colored coolants causes a reaction that reduces the anti-corrosion and water-pump-lubricating properties of the factory coolant.

Radiator Component Details

Radiator Component Details

Video of Lexus/Toyota V6 Radiator Replacement

The video below (starting at time 3:29) shows the replacement of the radiator on a '97 Lexus ES 300. The radiator configuration in the ES300 is virtually identical to the Camry V6 and I4 as well as other Toyota vehicles. There are two fan shrouds—on the driver's side for coolant, and the passenger side for the condenser—and two supply and return ATF connection points.

Step-By-Step Instructions for Radiator Replacement

1. Remove the radiator filler cap and detach the radiator reservoir hose.


2. Detach the driver's-side fan and the ECT switch connector. The ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor measures water temperature.

3. Detach the passenger-side fan connector.

4. Disconnect the supply and return transmission fluid lines from the transmission.

Note: If your transmission is manual, this step is not necessary.

5. Remove the four 10 mm bolts that secure the two cooling fan shrouds. Then pull the cooling fan shroud up and out to expose the ECT temperature control wire harness strap.

6. Disconnect the ECT wire harness strap from the strap mount. Then disconnect the ECT wire plug from the water temperature sending unit.

7. Drain the coolant. Reach under the driver's side of the radiator and twist off the drain plug. Leaving the drain plug partly inside the radiator will direct the coolant flow through the drain port.


8. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the radiator and the lower radiator hose from the engine/water pump.

After the upper hose has been disconnected, remove the driver's-side fan shroud by pulling the shroud up.

9. Unbolt the two upper radiator support mounts, remove the mounts, and pull the radiator up from its lower support mount.


10. With the old radiator out, disconnect it from:

  • the lower radiator hose
  • the supply and return transmission oil lines
  • the water temperature sending unit
  • the lower radiator support mounts, if detached from their sockets.

11. Transfer items from the old radiator to the new radiator. Screw on the brass fittings for the transmission supply and return connections at the same angle as the original fittings. Do not over-torque. Re-check the tension and check for leaks after the radiator has been installed with the ATF lines. Do the same for the water temperature sending unit. Use plumber's tape or gasket seal on the threads for a leak-free seal.


12. Reverse your steps to re-install items you disconnected.

  • Connect ATF lines.
  • Connect water temperature sensor plug and wire harness plug.
  • Drop in the driver's and passenger's side fan shrouds and bolt them onto the radiator.
  • Connect the fan electrical connectors.
  • Connect the upper and lower radiator hoses. (See the end of this article for a video discussing of why spring clamps are the best for radiator hoses.)
  • Make sure the drain plug is installed and pour in the new coolant. Squeeze the upper hose to remove air pockets.
  • Start the engine with the drain cap off and add coolant if needed.
  • Check for ATF and coolant leaks and ensure all electrical fittings are connected.

Video on Using a Spill-Free Coolant Funnel

This is a wonderful tool ... yes a tool ... to have and use when working on a automotive cooling system. After filling up your radiator with coolant into a cold engine, you can keep the funnel half filled with new coolant, let your engine warm up and push out any trapped air and not worry about coolant overflow and spillage. And once all the air has been pushed out and by using the supplied funnel plunger / stopper, you can plug up the funnel and transfer the excess coolant back in to your coolant container. No fuss, no mess!

Video of Spring (Worm) vs. Spring Clamps

Learn the difference between (worm) hose and spring clamps and why spring clamps are better. Also I'll show you how to take the spring clamps off with specialty tools.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Questions & Answers

Question: I replaced the radiator of my Toyota Camry, and now the account fan is on and the temp gauge is high. Where did I go wrong?

Answer: Check that your fluid levels are okay. After starting the car, air pockets may have filled in with new coolant and dropped the coolant level.

Question: How do you remove the water temperature wire strap?

Answer: Gently pry it off.

Question: My dad replaced the radiator in my brothers 2002 Camry, and now he is having a crank no start issue, whereas before the car was starting fine. What could the problem be, or could you tell me what to troubleshoot to find the problem?

Answer: Check that the AC fan and radiator fan motor electrical fittings are all connected. Also, the temperature sensor on the bottom corner of the radiator should be connected. When you said crank no start, I'm assuming the engine is turning over, but the car will not start.

Question: New radiators brass fittings need to be connected before the installation of the radiator in the car. Should some type of gasket or rtv sealant be used to ensure a tight seal and to prevent leaks of the brass fittings or is just tightening them enough?

Answer: If you're referring to the ATF supply and return fittings on a new replacement radiator, no rtv or gasket is needed. Just make sure the flare nuts are not loose.

© 2010 hardlymoving


hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on June 03, 2020:


I avoid the radiator problems you had by buying only OEM Denso radiators. They're really not that expensive.

Brett on June 03, 2020:

Thankyou for your help as I finally replaced the radiator in my mums 2000 camry mcv20r V6 today. It did take me a few hours as I took my time and made sure everything was correct and no leaks. Make sure you tighten the flare nuts on the new brass fittings well.

Here is some help for others out there with old models.

The transmission return hose lines almost look new so did not bother changing them but the clamps were rusted and broke when I removed them so put typical screw/worm clamps.

MCV20R Australian 2000 camry has another 10mm nut way at the bottom of one of the fan shrouds which you need to take out the other fan first to be able to reach down and around to use a small socket wrench to get it out. I almost gave up and went to remove the skid plate to get to it but with some persistence got it out.

One more thing to mention is the cheap ebay radiators fan temp switch hole was a fraction too small so I ended up getting a drill bit just to burr some of the plastic away to get the old sensor in as to not damage it by force pushing in. If you feel any resistance putting the sensor in then you might have to carefully drill it out. The new radiator fanswitch plug came with a brand new O-ring so I used that on the old sensor. The Radiator drain plug was sealed and not drilled out so if in the future I needed to drain I would have to unscrew it all the way out. I could have drilled it out but removal of whole plug does same thing.

The Fan sensor connector would not come off no matter what and I went to use pliers but then thought otherwise. The connector is 20 years old and looked like it would fall to bits so I was able to unscrew it and the sensor and wireharness out of the radiator all still connected and placed it somewhere safe on a rag next to car to then install into new radiator.

The new radiator had smaller pivet hole points on it so if you look at bottom of one of the fan shrouds I needed to have the smaller points snapped off with pair of long nose pliers so it would sit down and line up with the bolt holes. You will see a big point mark pivet and either side very smaller ones. These stopped me lining the fan holes up and getting once the the fans to sit and line up.

I hope this might help anyone with older models and thankyou to everyone giving advice and Gday from Sydney Australia.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on December 08, 2018:

I just wait until it's cool enough to remove the radiator cap. Sometimes I'll take the cap off with a rag knowing a little coolant will come out. So no, you don't need to wait until completely cooled down.

James on December 08, 2018:

Just a question is it recommended to wait for the engine to be completely cooled down before changing the radiator?

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on December 04, 2018:

That won't be necessary...that is removing the front part of the car. Start by removing the plastic shroud covering the top of the radiator. Follow the instructions as outline in this article. The concept of removal and installation is pretty much the same.

Thomas on December 04, 2018:

I have a 2007 Toyota Camry are radiator problem, how do I take the old radiator out do I remove the front part of the car?

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on June 17, 2018:

Just transfer the brass supply and return hose connectors from the old radiator to the new one. If that's not possible, return the radiator for refund. A new radiator should come with the new brass connectors unless it's a low quality, cheap o radiator ... which I've had problems with in the past and avoid buying. Here's a OEM Denso Radiator on Amazon for $60 and change. A good deal IMHO.


Jason on June 17, 2018:

I got new radiator for my 1998 camry 2.2L , it doesn't have ATF hose fitting for transmission oil as shown in your picture.

What is the part name? Where may I order the brass fittings for transmission Line?

E on June 08, 2018:

Thank you for your helpful post

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on November 14, 2016:


I suggest you get the original clamps at a local salvage yard.

Kruse on November 12, 2016:

Thanks so much, very helpful instructions and pictures. I just got done replacing my 98 camry this weekend and everything is working smooth so far. Some of my old hose clamps were worn out so that was probably the most difficult part to move about on the new hoses. Any idea where I could get new hose clamps that are pliers type? I reside in Minnesota and the auto parts stores around me don't seem to carry any, only the screw one, thanks.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on October 26, 2016:

David McMullen55,

There's only one radiator with two (2) fan motors.

David McMullen55 on October 23, 2016:

My Toyota Camry seems to have two radiators.

What does the one in the very front do?

Mine is busted and I only got the other one from the store.

David McMullen on October 23, 2016:

What is the other radiator for?

My car has another in front of this one.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on August 21, 2016:


Suggest you take a quick trip to your local junkyard. the rubber bushing is a unique part and without it or with a make shift version, I believe, will cause un-dampened vibration of your radiator.

MoreCowbell on August 21, 2016:

Thanks for the quick reply. Yep, as I was lowering the new one down into the car and noticed that there were no rubber grommets, I checked the old one and it had none. The old one was a replacement itself by the previous owner. I suspect that he lost them the first time the radiator was replaced.

I'm thinking that if I cannot locate the actual part for this car, I can just find a similarly sized one (the uppers don't fit the bottom- I checked)

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on August 21, 2016:


Did you check if the lower bushings was stuck to the radiator after you took it out?

MoreCowbell on August 21, 2016:

Thanks for the article. I just bought a 97 Camry and it is missing both lower rubber bushing supports. It seems that the upper bushings (Dorman 926-279) are everywhere but I cannot find even a reference to what the lower bushings are supposed to be. Are they the same part number as the uppers?

sc on August 24, 2015:

Great instructions. I replaced the OEM radiator on my 1999 Camry LE with a Denso 221-0500, and air bled the cooling system. But the cooling fans do not come on even with the heater set to HOT and cycling the system for 30 minutes. Can someone post links to the correct Water Temperature Sending Unit and ECT Wire Harness/Plug in case I need to replace those two?

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on July 10, 2015:


I'd recommend replacing the radiator and be worry fee. They're not that expensive if purchased off the net.

Randy on July 09, 2015:

one of my Automatic transmission lines (drivers side of radiator) has a leak. I found coolant leaking from this line at the radiator. The locking but that holds the adaptor in the radiator has rusted off the adaptor threads.!! Can I buy a new nut? Or do you think the threads are gone also.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on April 25, 2015:


Unless the radiator has a suppy and return fitting for the automatic transmission oil line, no.

Sarah on April 25, 2015:

Just wondering if it is possible to put a radiator from a 1999 manual Toyota Camry into a 1993 automatic Camry. Hoping you can help.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on January 27, 2014:


Denso is the Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM). They are available on Amazon for slightly more than $70. Here's the link:


Al on January 26, 2014:

what a good kind of radiator brand for my toyota camry 99, I need something that is no more than $70 dollars, I bought one on line for $50 but it leaked transmission fluid from the bottom of the radiator, turned out the the quality of the fitting was bad

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

Expect your radiator and transmission hoses and hose clamps to need replacement, so get them in case you need them.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

The hardest part about removing the radiator can be removing the wire strap on the drivers side to allow you to slide the radiator w/fans still mounted. Simply take a small narrow flat screwdriver and push the wire strap end so it gets forced back from where it came from . See figure 6 above. Then, to completely remove the other strap on the bottom of the radiator after you remove the radiator with the fans intact, you can squeeze its grippers that go through the rectangular hole in the old radiator and jimmy the entire strap holder out of the hole. Then you can mount it on the new radiator.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

Put in the new antifreeze 50/50 mix w/distilled water but make sure it is without "minerals added for taste", which some companies are adding. Don't expect to be able to fill more than you removed, which is probably 1 gal due to the rest of the antifreeze sitting in the engine in places you can only get at if you remove the engine drain plug.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

Be careful when putting on your new hoses. The old hose clamps may not be big enough to easily slide on the hose when the hose is mounted on the radiator. Too much force could break the plastic. You might need to use screw tightened hose clamps or get squeeze clamps that open more than the originals do.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

A lot of your bolts might be so rusty that you can't fit a socket over them properly. Just take a pliers and open it so it grabs the sides of bolt head and that will remove the rust. Repeat for each pair of bolt sides. Also, use penetrating fluid before removing the bolts, but after letting it soak in, clean the bolt heads so the socket doesn't slip when turning it.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

After you pull out the radiator w/ the fans still on and the bottom radiator hose and the bottom trans. hoses still connected, you can lay the old radiator flat and put the new radiator protective caps on the old radiator hose connections. Then you can easily pour the remaining transmission oil into a clean pan so you can pour it back into the engine. Also you can pour the remaining antifreeze in to a container for recycling. You may be able to recycle your old radiator as scrap metal at your county recycling center or a junk yard that accepts junk metal

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

Beware when you bolt your new radiator in place with the top clamps. You don't want to warp the radiator. You might find that one of the rubber rings on the bottom of the radiator is worn more than the other (or the hole it goes in is rusted) and that could cause uneven mounting of the radiator. Clean out the holes that the rubber rings go in. Get new rubber rings if necessary. Make sure the radiator is jimmied in place properly so that when you mount the top brackets, you're not warping the radiator or the seams will fail early.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

To remove hoses that seem stuck in place, you can use a thin flat screwdriver or better a thin and narrow piece of plastic or metal. Push it between the hose and the metal the hose goes around. Then the hose should be easier to remove.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

When you put the old temp sensor in the new plastic/aluminum radiator, use one wrap around of teflon tape on the the threads. That will make it easier to remove the temp. sensor at a future time w/o cracking your plastic radiator tank. Also prevents coolant leaks. Don't put a lot of tape or the plastic might crack when you tighten the fitting.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

Also, you can leave the bottom rad. hose connected and still slide up the rad. with fans in place.

cam95guy on June 12, 2013:

Better to remove 2 trans. hoses at the top near the engine, and then slide the whole radiator up and out with fans and temp sensor in place. It saves a lot of time and effort.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on April 08, 2013:


If you've done it before and with the right tools, around an hour. If for the first time, 1.5 to 2 hours. Hard part is removing the transmission supply and return hoses. Have a pair of needle nose pliers that are rounded on the tip to remove hoses.

STeve Peele on April 08, 2013:

How long should I expect this to take? .

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on January 29, 2012:


Glad it worked out for you.

Brent on January 28, 2012:

Huge help with the numbered steps AND nice pics! Just did mine today using this and one other DIY as pre-job references and it went well. Thanks!

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