DIY Timing Belt Replacement, Toyota MZFE Engine: Camry V6, Avalon, Lexus ES 300, Sienna, Lexus RX 300, Solara
The Toyota MZFE engine is a transversely mounted, timing-belt driven, 24-valve, dual overhead cam (DOHC) aluminum V6 design. It is used in many Toyota and Lexus cars from 1994 to 2003, including the Lexus ES300 and RX300, and the Toyota Camry, Avalon, and Solara. It comes in a 3.0 liter version, the 1MZFE, and a 3.3 liter version, the 3MZFE. Most engine components in the 1MZFE are interchangeable with the 3MZFE, including the timing belt, tensioner pulley, and guide pulley, although the 3MZFE has a different tensioner configuration.
See my other article for replacement of a timing belt on the four-cylinder Camry (the 5SFE engine).
Replacing Broken Belts
In models before the 1999-2003 introduction of VVTI (Variable Valve Timing) technology, the engine's valve train is “non-interference,” meaning that if the timing belt breaks while the vehicle is operating, it will not necessarily damage the valves or pistons. Therefore, you can use the instructions below to replace a broken timing belt on a non-VVTI engine. Positioning the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft pulley alignment marks to Top Dead Center (TDC) is all you need to do before installing the new belt. After installing the belt, you can do a compression leakage test to make sure the valves are still okay.
When to Replace the Timing Belt and Related Parts
Toyota recommends belt replacement after 90,000 miles.
Other parts are often replaced at the same time. Some shops always replace the water pump with the belt, but in my experience the Aisin water pumps that come with the MZFE Camry are good for at least 200,000 miles. At 150,000 miles, some guide pulleys (idler pulleys) and tensioner pulleys look worn and need replacement. The tensioner (actuator) doesn't generally need replacing. After 200,000 miles, I would definitely replace the seals (camshaft, crankshaft, and oil pump) and the water pump as well, along with the timing belt. Whether or not you need to replace the seals depends on their mileage, age, and their observed condition after you remove the timing belt cover. On the four-cylinder 5SFE Camry these seals do start to leak at about 150K, but on the V6 MZFE they last longer. Using a "high mileage" oil may swell the seals and stop leakage for a while, though eventually (certainly after ten years) seals turn brittle and this trick won't work.
Time Needed
Assume three or more hours to replace the belt alone.
Reminder: marking the old belt with paint where it meets the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys, and transfering these marks to the new belt, will make it much easier to install the belt if any of the pulleys happen to move between the removal of the old belt and the installation of the new one.
1MZFE Timing Belt Components
Tools Needed
Impact driver (electric, compressed air, or mechanical)
1/2" breaker bar (if no impact driver available)
1/2" & 3/8" drive socket wrenches
Metric box wrenches and sockets
1/2" & 3/8" wrench extensions
Screw drivers
Jack (hydraulic or scissor)
Standard jack stands
Note About Tools
Japanese cars use the following metric sizes: 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm, 21mm, 22mm.
At a minimum, to remove and torque screws and bolts, especially the crankshaft bolt discussed below, you will want a breaker bar. This is a tool of many uses.
The next step up is an impact driver. You can get a manual impact driver, but an electric impact driver is even better, if you can afford it. The one below is the best I have used.
Parts Needed
- Replacement timing belt
- Belt tensioner idler pulley (optional)
- Belt guide idler pulley (optional)
- Timing belt cover gasket (optional)
- Side motor mount (engine control rod, "dog bone") (optional)
- Water pump with gasket (optional)
- Power steering fluid (optional)
Common Timing Belt Kit Components
The cost of the belt and components can vary greatly. If you want to use Japanese OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) parts--the parts that Toyota puts its own label on--you will want a Mitsuboshi timing belt, Koyo pulleys, and an Aisin water pump. Other Japanese OEM brands include Denso, NGK, KYB, Akebono, GMB, and Sumoto. Shop and compare prices, including shipping costs, for the best deals.
But you can find good parts from other manufacturers as well. As Japanese cars shift their manufacturing to the US, OEM manufactureres have come to include American companies like Gates and Dayco.
Every vendor featured at rockauto.com has been vetted, and generally provides quality parts that last; if not, you can return them for refund.
Basically, any Fortune 1000 parts company should provide adequate parts.
Step by Step: Replacing the Timing Belt and Other Parts
The instructions and pictures below show how to:
- Remove the accessory belts and crankshaft pulley
- Drain the power steering fluid (optional)
- Remove the timing belt cover and side engine mount
- Replace water pump and pulleys (optional)
- Install the new timing belt
- Put everything back together
Removing the Crankshaft Pulley and Accessory Belts
Letters refer to photos at the end of this section. Click on a photo to enlarge it.
- Place transmission in "park," apply the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Support the vehicle on a jack stand and remove the passenger-side front wheel.
- Unbolt the front fender apron seal on the passenger side (A).
- Loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt (B). If you don't have an impact driver, use a breaker bar (C) secured to the ground or frame of the car (D). "Thump" the ignition (run it briefly) for around one second. The torque from the starter motor should relieve the tension on the bolt. If that desn't work, it's possible your car's battery is too weak to provide enough amps to loosen the bolt; you can try jumping the battery with another car’s battery. If that doesn't work, applying heat to the bolt from a propane torch can help ... but be careful ... too much heat will damage the oil seal. As a last resort, find a friendly garage owner who'll torque the bolt off for you with their 180-lb air-powered impact driver.
- Turn the engine clockwise (E) to align the crankshaft pulley to the Top-Dead-Center (TDC) mark on the timing belt cover (F). Use a 1/2" drive socket wrench attached to the (loosened) pulley bolt to ease engine rotation. Use an impact driver, or do a quick twist of the socket wrench counter-clockwise, to spin off the crankshaft pulley without upsetting the alignment.
- (Optional:) If your power steering fluid has turned black, it's convenient to replace it as part of this job; you can drain it from the power steering pump hose, instead of from the reservoir. Remove the hose clamp and hose from the metal tube located below the crankshaft pulley G). You can "push" out most of the fluid by turning the steering wheel left and right while the fluid is draining out. When completely drained, reconnect the hose and clamp (H).
- Relieve tension on the alternator pivot bolt (I).
- Loosen the tension on the alternator adjustment locking bolt (J).
- Turn the alternator belt adjustment bolt counter-clockwise until the alternator belt can be removed by pushing down on the alternator.
- Loosen or remove the power steering pump bracket bolt (K,L).
- With either a long metal bar or crowbar, apply pressure to the left side of the pump to relieve tension on the power steering belt (M). Alternatively, a few light taps with a hammer on the power steering pump bracket will move the pump forward of the bolt and relieve tension on the belt.
- Remove both the alternator and power steering pump belts.
- Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt (N) and remove the pulley. If the pulley does not slide out with a simple tug, a pulley removal tool may be required (O).
Removing the Crankshaft Pulley and Accessory Belts: Photos A-O
Click thumbnail to view full-size
Removing the Side Engine Mount and Timing Belt Cover
Letters refer to photos at the end of this section. Click on a photo to enlarge it.
- Disconnect the coolant reservoir hose from the reservoir container (P).
- Disconnect the two engine ground wire connectors (Q).
- Unbolt and remove the side engine mount (R, S).
- Remove the alternator bracket nut and bracket (T).
- Optional: to give yourself more room to work, you can detach the power steering hose and move it to the firewall (U, V).
- Unbolt and remove the lower timing belt cover, the upper timing belt cover, and the side engine mount bracket. Keep the one long bolt in place while removing the bracket (W).
- Remove the timing belt guide (X, Y, Z, AA, BB).
Removing the Side Engine Mount and Timing Belt Cover: Photos P-BB
Click thumbnail to view full-size
Removing the Timing Belt
Letters refer to photos at the end of this section. Click on a photo to enlarge it.
- Check that the camshaft alignment marks match the backing plate alignment marks. If not aligned, screw the crankshaft bolt back in and rotate the engine with a wrench until alignment is made (CC).
- After the engine is aligned, apply paint marks to the camshafts and crankshaft, to their backing plates, and to the timing belt. These marks will help with re-alignment if the crankshaft or camshafts happen to move during belt installation (DD).
- Unbolt the timing belt tensioner (EE). *NOTE: For the 3MZFE engine (i.e. the 3.3 liter V6), the belt tensioner has been redesigned and the lower right motor mount has been added by Toyota blocking removal of the tensioner. To remove the 3MZFE belt tensioner, the right lower engine mount must first be removed followed by the engine mount bracket. To do this: 1. Remove the front motor mount bolt. 2. Remove the lower right motor mount upper and lower nuts. 3. Place a hydraulic jack with wood block under the engine oil pan and slowly tilt the engine up until there is enough clearance to removed the right motor mount. 4. After the mount has been removed, unbolt the mount bracket which will allow access to the belt tensioner bolts for removal.
- Twist the timing belt about 45 degrees, simultaneously, in two places: between the right camshaft and the crankshaft, and between and the right camshaft and left camshaft. This will slightly move both camshafts clockwise, which makes it easier to remove the old belt, as well as easier to install the new belt. A small amount of slack will now exist between both camshafts and between the right camshaft and the crankshaft.
- Remove the old timing belt (FF).
- Transfer the paint marks from the old belt to the new belt: set the old belt down, place the new belt over the old belt with their cogs aligned, and wherever you see a mark on the old belt, place a matching mark on the new one.
Removing the Timing Belt: Photos CC-FF
Click thumbnail to view full-size
Optional: Replacing the Water Pump, Guide Pulley, and Tensioner Pulley
If you want to replace the water pump as part of this job, a 10mm stud removal tool or an "E" socket will make it much easier. This tool or socket will ease removal of the pump's mounting stud, thereby allowing the pump to clear the camshaft-side timing belt cover. Removing the stud is easier than removing the camshaft sprockets and belt cover before removing the pump. Use a wire brush to remove any residual corrosion before installing the new gasket (I use a round brush mounted on a angled drill). DENSO water pumps come with a metal gasket with a rubber coated inside lip which does not require any RTV.
If you purchased a timing belt component kit, your kit should include a new guide pulley or idler pulley (the pulley between the two camshaft sprockets) and a new tensioner pulley (between the crankshaft and left camshaft). The guide pulley can be easily replaced by unbolting the old and bolting on the new. The tensioner pulley is slightly more difficult. This pulley is part of an assembly that allows the pulley to dynamically apply continuous pressure on the timing belt (via the tensioner) to take up the slack if the belt stretches. The tensioner mounting bolt runs through a sleeve that allows the pulley to move approximately 30 degrees to take up belt slack.
Installing the New Timing Belt; Reassembly
Letters refer to photos at the end of this section. Click on a photo to enlarge it.
- Start by installing the new belt on the right camshaft using the paint line on the new belt (GG). Prevent the belt from slipping off by using a spring loaded plastic alligator clip (HH).
- Stretch the belt and slip the belt onto the left camshaft. Again, use the paint line on the new belt for alignment and use a plastic alligator clip to prevent the belt from slipping off.
- Guide the right side of the belt over the water pump and then position the belt on the crankshaft pulley cogs. There should be little to no slack when this is done. Slack may be a sign that the belt is loose by one cog.
- While holding the belt in place over the crankshaft pulley with the right hand, use the left hand to slip the left side of the belt over the tensioner pulley (II).
- Bolt on the timing belt tensioner. Applying equal turns on each bolt will gradually compress the tensioner pin against the tensioner pulley assembly. As this occurs, the timing belt will tighten up.
- (Optional:) At this point you can start the car to check the belt alignment. If the car misfires, or the "Check Engine" light comes on, turn off the car, connect the crankshaft pulley bolt, and rotate the engine with a ratchet wrench to the alignment marks. Being off by one cog will cause an engine misfire. If this happens, the problem is usually between the right camshaft and the crankshaft.
- Reverse the outlined instructions to reconnect removed components (JJ). The crankshaft pulley bolt can be 'shocked' (torqued) on with a mechanical impact driver, if either an air or electrically powered impact driver is not available (you may be able to rent them at an auto retailer). Alternatively, you can always bring your car to a private garage and ask them to torque the bolt on for you. Usually they'll do it for free out of professional courtesy.
- If the power steering fluid was drained, pour in new fluid and turn the steering wheel right to left to create suction. The fluid level should drop. Add more fluid and repeat the procedure until the fluid level has stabilized.
Installing the New Timing Belt; Reassembly (GG-JJ)
Click thumbnail to view full-size
Related
Comments
Toyota has some special service tools for doing this job, did you use any of them?
- Author
Somadina,
Nope ... just use standard metric tools and a good impact driver.
What is your opinion on replacing the other hardware during this process. Should I go after the oil seals?
I love the detail of this post! Saves me from needing to buy the Factory Manual.
- Author
Depends on the mileage, age and condition of the seals after the timing belt cover has been removed. I4 engines start leaking from the seals at around 150K miles (i.e. camshaft, oil pump & crankshaft). But for some strange reason, the V6's don't leak. Even if there's a mild leak, switching to a Motor Oil for engines over 75K can swell the seal and stop the leakage.
If over 200K miles, I'd replace the seals and the water pump. Did one recently on a Camry with 240K miles and the pump and seals were okay but didn't think they'd last another 100k miles.
What you really have to worry about is the Valve Cover Gasket Bolts coming lose or the rubber cover gasket shrinking on the rear/firewall side bank. Have seen a lot of oil leakage out of V6's. Unfortunately, to replace the gasket, you'll have to remove the intake runners. If you're going to do it, might as well replace the plugs, ignition wires and have fuel injectors removed for professional cleaning. After replacing the gasket, apply thread lock on the Vale Cover Gasket Bolts.
How did you reinstall the crankshaft pulley? What tools did you use?
- Author
Somadina,
I use an impact driver. Or use a socket wrench and socket; but you'll have to lock the engine from moving. Some people do it by removing the starter motor and jamming a large screw driver against the flywheel.
Although this hub is very informative, I'd still need a mechanic to do this. Thank tho. Voted up!
Why align the crank pulley between 5-10deg...Haynes recommends 0deg?
- Author
Evolve
Doesn't really matter that much because once you have the upper & lower timing belt covers off, the crankshaft must be moved to align the camshaft pulley marks with the backing plate. With other TB jobs on the V6, zero degree alignment of the crankshaft does not guarantee precise camshaft alignment.
Excellent info on most repairs. Great reference material so thanks a heap.
- Author
Driver,
Thx. My pleasure.
I don timing belt on 00 rx300 and one tooth off on crank is it possible to reset tension on tensioner or will I have to get another one?
- Author
00 RX 300,
Nope ... you'll have to take the belt off and re-align.
This is the best write-up I have seen! Thank you for posting with all of the pictures - it's invaluable.
- Author
Thanks Brian ... glad it helped you out.
Very nice written unlike other post where they get off the subject and start talking about other car and you know the story
- Author
Thanks Larry,
I write my DIY articles so that anyone with a reasonable amount of mechanical ability can do the job themselves with basic tools.
I have a 89 camry 2.0L 4cyl 3sfe and changed oil seal and crankseal....my cousin gave me bad advice and we didn't mark tdc on timing belt and lost timing how d o I get it back?
- Author
Mike,
Refer to my DIY article on doing a timing belt replacement on the I4 5SFE. The 3SFE is not too different from the 5SFE. Basically, set the crankshaft at TDC (Top Dead Center) while noting the position of the Camshaft Sprocket TDC alignment marks. If out of alignment, your Camshaft Sprocket TDC mark will off (probably by one cog). I'll guess you'll have to advance the Camshaft Sprocket just one cog (clockwise). I've seen too many belt replacement jobs off by just 1 cog because belt tension was not relieved before the old belt was removed. The Camshaft was not slightly advanced in order to slip on the new belt; hence causing the timing to be retarded.
i bought a used 1995 lexus es300 great car and runs fine. only problem the prior owner changed the crankshaft sprocket. In doing so after the timing belt was put back on it rattled like it had broken valves or rods knocking. i know timing is lost have not bought a new belt as of yet but tried to time it myself as im pretty good with engines. (a regular shade tree mechanic :) )
how can i put this thing back together properly, ive lined up all marks but looking from the pass side the top left cam sprocket skips right past the mark every time i try to set it on it. no matter how much i try. after setting it the proper way it wont start at all and smells flooding.
PLEASE HELP as this car needs to be reliable for my wife and kids! I do know the past owner and he always took great care of it for his college daughter.
by the way love the great ways you describe diy works. anyone who can do legos can work by your notes
- Author
Ray Tobin,
Rotate the engine and get the #1 cylinder to 0 degree TDC (Top Dead Center). This can be done by locating a dimple mark on the crankshaft pulley and rotating to the 12:00 o'clock position. Then align the dipple with the inverted U shaped mark on the engine casing. To double check, temporaily re-install the lower timing belt cover and crankshaft. The time mark on the pulley should align with the 0 degree mark on the belt cover.
Set the left and right camshaft just a hair pass the timing belt back cover belt alignment notch (V shaped). Starting from the crankshaft, mount the belt on the crank pulley then weave up to the right crankshaft pulley. Secure the belt on the pulley with any clip (cloths or large paper ). Remove the slack on the belt by counter clockwise rotating the right camshaft. Now the right camshaft should be perfectly aligned. Weave the belt over the left camshaft and over the remaining pulleys on the engine. Re-installing the belt tensioner will remove the slack on the left crankshaft. If you're worried about the camshaft moving, have someone hold the camshaft in place by using a breaker bar secured to the Camshaft pulley bolt.
When I align the crank to TDC on my 3MZ, I was unable to get the rear bank camshaft pulley mark to align with notch on the backing plate. The front camshaft pulley lines up just fine but the rear camshaft is slight off. So my questions is, When I remove the timing belt, can I align the rear camshaft pulley to the notch with a wrench ?
- Author
Toyohead,
If the rear camshaft is slightly off and the engine is running good with no MIL codes, then keep that setting. Apply paint marks on the rear cam and backing plate before taking off the timing belt.
HI
I was wander if you could help me, I replaced a Toyota 1MZ-FE timing belt, the car turn on with the first start no problem no unusual sound, but 1 thing is made me bit confused me, dose the belt and cam 1 & cam 2 line have to be in place when you turned off the engine? or dose not mean every time be the same?
I would be so greatfull if can help
Thanks
Amin
- Author
Alignment is only necessary when performing a belt replacement. After replacement, where ever the cams rest after engine shut down does not matter.
Thank you so much that great that was my first time and I am very happy for what I have done.
once again
Thank you
Amin from SA- Australia
I need a little help. 2006 3.3 toy. How do i know that no. 1 piston is on compession stroke? Even if my mark is lined up it dosent mean no1 is on compression. Im a little confuzdd. Thank you so much
- Author
Watertreatment1,
Your at TDC (top dead center) with the no. 1 piston on the compression stroke when the camshaft pully is at the 0 degree mark and the camshaft's timing marks are aligned with the markings on the rear camshaft dust cover. (see my last photo)
Hi could I use the same water pump for a Avalon 97 1mzfe as the 2000 cc Camry can it work the same ?
Thanks
First I want to say that your guide has great photos which are a must for a DIY guide. BUT you don't discuss the reassembly at all, most importantly torque specifications. This is an all aluminum engine and very easy to pull threads. This entire job MUST be done with a good quality torque wrench or disaster will follow!
ASE Master,
Torques specs. are noted on the component breakdown diagram.
Re-assembly is the reverse of assemble. If one can't figure that out, they shouldn't be working on cars.
The only people who "pull threads" are inexperienced mechanics who have no feel and therefore requirement a "good quality torque wrench". BTW - manufacturers tend to over-torque everything at the factory.
My shop does not have internet access to allow me to view this DIY with the pics. How can I print out the procedures PLUS get the detailed pics to walk me through this? Great instructions, by the way. Thanks so much for your help.
- Author
ColdBigRed,
Suggest you view via your phone otherwise don't know what else to suggest.
My 2006 sienna le stopped running in idle. It turns out the timing belt broke. I read online to see if the engine is ruined by this, but there are many contradicting informations. Some say the timing belt interfere the engine and some say it doesn't. I don't want to tow the van to the garage just to here that the engine is dead. Any advice would be appreciated!
- Author
Seyoung,
It's cheaper to take your chances and have the timing belt replaced with 3 hours labor time. That's how long it takes me. Then start the engine and you'll know if the valves are bent. Otherwise, the work involved to determine if the valves are bent, in my opinion, isn't worth it when I could be taking the time replacing the belt.
If the valves are bent, then you talking a big job taking off the cylinder heads to replace the damaged valves. Believed most shops will tell you to replace the engine or charge you upwards of $2000 or more.
hardlymoving, This page is referenced in support of this statement:
They (MZ engine series) feature cast aluminium pistons with an anti-friction resin coating (moly) and valve depressions that decrease the chance of valve-to-piston interference in case of timing belt failure on motors without VVT-i.
Do you agree? Could you guess at the chance of valve damage after a timing belt failure, given the valve depressions of the VVT-i engine?
- Author
Dale,
The last 2 words in your quote was "without VVT-i".
I'm guessing that Toyota removed the valve depressions WITH VVT-i engines to increase the compression ratio and to control engine knock via VVT-i. Therefore, if the timing belt brakes, there is a chance of valve damage ... most likely if the brake occurred at high rpm's.
The easiest way of finding out is to simply replace the belt and starting the engine before slapping everything back on (valve cover, accessory belt, side motor mount, etc.) Yes ... you can run the engine off the battery without having the alternator rotating.
From my experience, I can have the belt on in around 1.5 hours.
Great write-up. I have a 2002 ES300 that is due for a timing belt and just happened to blow a head gasket. You wouldn't happen to have a write-up on replacing he head gasket on this engine would you? Also, in my case, just the front is blown I think since all codes reference bank 2. I would like to shortcut this and not do bank 1. Bad idea?
- Author
James,
A cylinder head removal and re-installation is a lot of work compared to a timing belt/water pump replacement. On the V6, there are two heads - and you can't do one without doing the other. There would be a slight imbalance of compression if the head you're removing needs to be "planed" by a auto machine shop.
You can reference my repair article on a Honda Accord head gasket replacement.
I'd do a compression check before doing a head gasket replacement. Also, check if there is white smoke coming out of your exhaust pipe - an indicator that coolant is leaking into your combustion chamber.
Head gaskets usually get blown from overheating the engine due to lack of coolant.
I have a 99 Avalon 1MZFE with 30 K miles that I will be doing the first t-belt job. I do not see any major leaks from the wp or cams. Would you recommend replacing all bearings, seals, tensioner, water pump in addition to the t-belt?
- Author
Edge,
With only 30K miles, I would just replace the belt.
Thanks for the post
Excellent writeup. I have a 98 Sienna. Looking to DIY this. Have watched a number of YouTube videos. I need to change the CAM oil seals too. The one step that concerns me most is the talk about the rear CAM shaft's springs being "loaded" when at TDC, and that after I align everything at TDC, and prior to removing the old belt, I should move that CAM off of TDC to relieve the spring pressure. Any guidance or tips on how best to do that? Can I remove the timing belt and then carefully release the tenions on just that one CAM...or should I keep belt on, turn CRANK (which turns everything), and then remove the old belt.
- Author
John H.,
There's no need to moving the camshaft positions if the Crankshaft timing mark is at Top-Dead-Center (TDC) and the left and right camshafts are at there alignment marks prior to belt removal. Afterwards, you can advance the camshafts to the right by one cog to mount the belt and then position it back.
If the belt is new but was installed wrong then hiw would i line it up
- Author
Jason,
You line up the camshafts with the backing plate alignment marks and the crankshaft to TDC (Top Dead Center) with the crankshaft sprocket at the 12:00 o'clock mark on the engine.
Thanks for the feedback. I was able to find the manufacturers manual on this. Seems with the 2005 Sienna, they do recommend turning the crankshaft counterclockwise by 60 degrees prior to removing the belt to release the spring tension. Yet for my model (1998)the guide mentions none of that, and like you said, just remove it. The entire "counterclockwise" of the crankshaft was what was bothering me because everywhere you read there is always the disclaimer, "do not turn the crankshaft counterclockwise". Thanks again.
- Author
John H.,
I recently did 2 belt jobs on the 3.3 ltr V6 engines (2005 Sienna & 2004 ES330) and was surprised when the rear camshaft sprocket "jumped" clockwise around 45 degrees if the sprocket was accidently advanced one cog. No big deal. I just re-positioned the sprocket back to the alignment mark.
Well, knocked it out. Unfortunately the rear cam seal is still leaking after replacing it (*%&$&!, *&%@ ,etc). Of course, it would be that one, the biggest PIA to get to. Soooo, I may need to do it again. But, the good news was, after replacing everything, belts, tensioner, pulleys, waterpump, cam and crank seals, etcs....wouldn't you know, it started back up again. Woo hoo. Hadn't been that far into a car repair before, so I feel pretty good. I may allow it to leak for a bit, before getting at it again. Thanks for all the advice.
- Author
John H,
That's a tough seal to remove and install without special tools. I use the "Lisle 58500 Hook for 58430"for seal removal and a Cam Seal Installation tool which presses it in evenly. Around a 5 minute job.
This is the best instruction for replace Toyota Timing Belt. thank you very much!
I have a 2007 Highlander V6 3.3 liter (3MZ-FE) AWD. The tensioner bolts are 90 degrees to the direction of the pin. If I try to install the belt with the tensioner removed, I can't force the belt over far enough to align the tensioner with its bolt holes. If I try with the tensioner installed but the pin pushed down with a hex wrench holding it, the belt won't slide on the #1 idler pulley. Should I just force the belt on the idler or is there something else going on?
- Author
Brian,
After installing the belt, remove all timing belt slack from the other side of the tensioner. You can do that by either turning the crankshaft either clockwise or the firewall side camshaft pulley counter clockwise. You can use any type of clip to prevent the timing belt from jumping a clog from the camshaft pulley. You should then have enough space to insert the tensioner bolt through the tensioner's top bolt hole. I use a 1/4" 10mm socket attached to a short extension to get the threads started. You'll have to push the tensioner against the tensioner pulley bracket to get the hole lined up. Once the top one is in, the bottom bolt is relatively easy to install. If you're doing this with the motor mount in place, you'll have the move the power steering pump bracket either up or down to get a path to either hole. I use a long pry bar or rod to tap down or up on the steering pump bracket.
@hardlymoving
Thank you for the quick response and the great article. I figured out the problem. After I would let go of the belt where it was wrapped around the crankshaft sprocket, the firewall side of the belt would constrict by a tooth causing me to not have enough slack to install the tensioner. Once I realized this was happening, I put a a large socket between the No. 1 idler pulley and it's bracket which would keep enough pressure on the belt to keep it from jumping a tooth on the crankshaft sprocket. After I put the tensioner against the belt, I'd pull the socket out. I had enough slack in the belt to install the tensioner. My tensioner had 12mm bolts.
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