Hardlymoving writes about do-it-yourself automobile maintenance on various makes and models.
The Nissan Murano front wheel bearings are relatively easy to replace. The hub and bearing assembly are bolted on to the steering knuckle whereas most front wheel drive vehicles have their bearings and hubs press fitted in. The only special tools needed to do the replacement quickly is a slide hammer with the FWD hub puller attachment; tools that can be easily rented. Otherwise, the hub assembly could be jarred free from the knuckle with hammer impacts; something I personally do not prefer to do but have know others to have done.
The customer complaint on this Murano was:
- High pitch wining noise that progressively gets louder as the speed increases.
- Above 60 mph, there's front end wheel vibration. Both problems corrected themselves with the wheel hub bearing being replaced.
Remove the Axle Shaft Cotter Pin and Nut
- If a high power impact driver is not available, a breaker bar attached to a 32mm socket should produce enough torque to loosen the Axle Shaft Nut.
Remove and Support the Brake Caliper Assembly
- Use a long Tie Strap or a Strong Bungee Cord hung from the Strut Springs to attach the Brake Caliper. Do this to relieve stress on the Caliper's Brake Hose.
- Once the Caliper has been removed and supported, the Brake Rotor can be removed.
Disconnect the ABS Sensor Attached to the Knuckle
- This sensor is secured by a 10mm bolt and after unbolting, should pull out with little effort.
Optional: Disconnect the Lower Ball Joint and Side Out the Axle Shaft From the Knuckle
- The four bolts securing the Bearing Hub Assemble may be difficult for some to gain access. If the Lower Ball Joint is removed thereby allowing the Axle Shaft to be pulled out of the Steering Knuckle, the CV joint will no longer impede removal of the hub mounting bolts with a Socket Wrench.
- Using a 17mm socket with a short extension should be all that is needed to gain access to the 4 Hub bolts. Turning the Steering Wheel will allow the Knuckle to be moved to a better position for bolt removal.
- A few light taps with a hammer and punch on the Axle Shaft should free the shaft from the hub splines. If more force is required, screw on the Axle Shaft nut on to the shaft to protect the shaft threads from hard hammer impacts.
Remove the Hub Bearing Assembly
- A Slide Hammer attached to a FWD (Front Wheel Drive) Hub Puller is recommend to removed the hub. In most cases, rust build up on the interior of the Knuckle Hole will fuse the old Hub in place. A few careful hammer blows on the hub might free it lose, but my preference is to pull it lose using a Slide Hammer. In addition, if the lower Ball Joint and CV Axle shaft were not removed, the pulling action of the Slide Hammer will ease removal.
Bolt on the New Hub Bearing
- Clean the Steering Knuckle Hub Mounting hole of lose rust and debris. A wire brush would work nicely. Afterwards, apply a thin coat of grease or anti-seize compound.
- Mount the new Hub Bearing with the Brake Dust Shield. Ensure that the dust shield is not placed on backwards.
- Before bolting everything back on, ensure that that Hub Bearing's ABS sensor port is aligned with the Steering Knuckle ABS hole. If not, the Hub Bearing is mounted up-side-down.
- If there is difficulty remounting the Brake Caliper Bracket, remove one of the pads. Afterwards, the lower Caliper bolt can be removed to swing the Piston Caliper up to remount the pad and recess the piston with a C clamp.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
Question: I will be replacing my hubs soon. What size cotter pin’s do I need if I choose to replace them?
Answer: For a few dollars, you can get yourself a cotter pin set from a retail auto parts supplier or Harbor Freight. Then match the size of your old pin with the new pins.
Question: Which wheel bearing one is it if my vehicle is AWD?
Answer: You can check with your local auto parts retailer to see if it's different. Since the car is normally sold as an FWD, I do not believe the AWDs are different.
Dmc on December 21, 2018:
What are the torque specs for reassembling the front bearing hub assembly?
2357R on October 08, 2016:
Very well done. Nice photos and succinctly written. Only 1 key piece of information is really missing. Torque specs to reassemble.
hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on April 20, 2016:
Don't have your answer. I assume there's a right and left side difference. Remove all rust and apply grease before trying to bolt on. Should be a tight fit.
Gio on April 15, 2016:
For a 2009 Nissan Murano is front passenger side wheel bearing part different than drivers side? Bought a Moog wheel bearing and seems to not fit. Don't want to force it as factory part goes on with ease
hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on February 27, 2015:
You must find out the manufacturer's procedure for resetting the ABS light. Cannot be done via the OBDII port.
pants21 on February 25, 2015:
replaced hub assembly but now vdc slip abs lights on, then replaced abs sensor and still on any additional steps i need to do?
hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on August 28, 2014:
Don't know about your knocking noise ... perhaps CV joint bearings. Vibration could be a bent wheel or out-of-round tire ... both problems will not prevent a wheel from being balanced on a balancing machine. A good tech should be able to find the problem.
Carol on August 28, 2014:
Help I have a Nissan Xterra, Michelin tires 3 months old, tire store says they are in balance, & do not have bad bearings, but has started vibrating for a couple of weeks with a worsening knocking noise. starts between 45-50 gets worse the higher spped u go. Noise is in rear.
Aarcane on June 05, 2014:
Nicely done, thanks.
hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on January 10, 2013:
With the right tools and parts in hand, you should be able to get the job done in your own garage with your dad. Otherwise, buy the parts yourself and find a mechanic who won't charge for more than 3 -2 hours of labor.
Amber on January 09, 2013:
Great step-by-step guide!
Eddie Carrara from New Hampshire on January 09, 2013:
Nice job on the hub, the pictures help a lot, especially with the text in them. The job looks pretty simple, the only tool most DIY ers wont have is the hub puller, but I'm pretty sure you could rent on from the auto parts store. Keep up the hub David, good to see you again :)