I'm an online writer and proud owner of an Audi 1.8T. My articles focus on helping Audi and Volkswagon owners handle DIY projects.
GTI Jetta Intake Manifold
I recently had to sell my beautiful GTI due to money problems and buy another one that apparently has more things wrong with it than Gary Busey. After reinstalling all the vacuum hoses that had been torn out, I noticed a loud hiss between the valve cover and intake manifold. After a few tests, I came to the conclusion that it was either the intake manifold gasket leaking or the fuel injector seats.
This DIY will focus on removing the intake manifold, but once you have it out, it will also be a good time to replace older vac hoses, pcv tubes, hoses, and to give your intake a nice polish or paint job (look at the quality job the previous owner did with his dremel!)
Tools for the Job
You won't need anything special, but I would definitely recommend using a socket wrench with an extension and allen head bits as opposed to me using a screwdriver and 5mm bit. The gasket can be bought at AutoZone for around $4 part # MS96151 (that is for Jetta/GTI/A4 AWP; if you have larger ports like AEB engines you will need a different gasket). I'm not sure of the part number at the dealership but it should be around $18.
- intake manifold gasket: part number MS96151 at AutoZone or part # 028-129-717 at the dealership
- socket wrench and extension (I found a 1/4th socket wrench with extension was easiest to work with)
- allen socket or bit 5mm and 6mm
- 10mm socket
- pliers, screwdriver to remove hose clamps
- zip ties or small screw type hose clamps
DIY: Removing the Intake
Try to blow off or remove any dirt that is around your intake ports.
- Unscrew the black plate that is attached to the front of your intake manifold. It is attached with two 5mm allen head bolts. At this point it is also helpful to remove the wire harnesses connected to the two valves under the black plate (helpful for space but not necessary). It is also helpful to remove the SAI crinkle hose that is bolted to the front of the plate. If you chose to unbolt this hose it requires a 10mm socket. (while you have this plate released it is a good time to do a N249 delete)
- The plate has a tab that is connected to the oil dip stick tube. Pull the plate upwards till the prong is out of the tab on the oil tube. At this point you cant pull the yellow/orange tube out so you don't break it, I left it in for the beginning of the DIY but found it much easier to just pull it out later on. To remove the tube just pull it out. If you do break the tube it it is about $10 at the dealership (part #06A-103-663)
- Looking at the fuel rail, on the right hand side there is a clip. Push the black plastic wire harness forward a little bit and pull up on the clip. It should pop up with ease. Once that clip is released you should be able to pull up then down and out to release the plastic line from the fuel line. It will take a little bit of force (tinker around with it a bit and you will see how it is connected.
- Now would be a good time to start disconnecting anything attached to the intake manifold. First Start with the hose on the drivers side. I have replaced the VW pinch clip with a screw type hose clamp. If you still have pinch clips on these hoses you will be removing just pull them off and replace with hose clamps (you can buy 40 of them for $6.99 at Harbor Freight) Also for the smaller hoses under the the manifold zip ties work great.
- If you pull forward on the black plate you should be able to see the hoses connected under the manifold. Pull those little bad boys off to. If you plan on replacing the hoses with new hose then cut them off to make it easy. The only hose I would recommend not cutting would be the hose from the intake that connects to the black plate (n249 & 211 hose).
- You have two options here. You can disconnect the Throttle body and pull it off with the manifold or you can take it off the manifold. I took it off with the mani so I could give it a good cleaning. If you choose not to take it off then just unscrew the four 5mm bolts. If you do take it off you will need to remove the wire harness to the TB and upper vac hose. This link talks about removing the throttle body and cleaning it.
- Now, lift up on the fuel rail to pull out your fuel injectors. They will only come out a little bit but it will be enough room to remove the Intake manifold screws. All Screws are 5mm allen head with the exception of two 10mm bolts on the left and right sides of the intake manifold. In front of the manifold on the passenger side there is a 6mm allen head bolt that will need to be removed to release the manifold from it's bracket.
- There is a wire harness that runs from the fuel line to a connector under the intake (between the first and second injector) you will need to release that. Try not to break it, it you do here is a DIY to fix broken wire clips or you can do like the previous idiot that owned this car and try to tape it down with duct tape.
- Work the manifold out and off the two bold post. Shove some napkins into the cylinder holes and cover with a plastic bag so no random things fall into the engine it you are not putting the manifold right back on.
Install the Manifold
My lovely assistant found better things to do than take picture of me installing the manifold, so for this I have no pictures, but it is pretty basic.
- First, take a razor blade and remove any old stuck on gasket or silicone that may have been applied to your manifold. To remove it from the engine I first shoved a few McDonalds napkins in to the cylinder holes so no dirt/silicone/old gasket pieces would fall into the motor. Remove napkins before you reinstall the manifold (sorry but to some that is not obvious).
- Work your manifold back on to the two post that you released the 10mm bolts from. If you took your throttle body off as well, install it after you install the intake.
- This is where I noticed pulling the oil dipstick hose off was a benefit. From the left side of the intake you can work your hand under there and put every screw back to the point that it is resting in a hole. Now tighten the bolts working from the inside out the torque spec is 7 ft-lb (same for the TB and fuel rail).
- Reaching under you can reconnect the wire harness from the fuel rail and slide your vacuum hoses back onto the intake. Install your TB, bolt the black plate and you should be good to go.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Writen4u (author) on May 18, 2012:
Michael, your inlet air sensor would be your maf sensor. Good luck with your "part". If you want to save money on buying another maf sensor why don't you spend a few thousand on a big turbo with a mafless tune.
What ever your part is, it is not going to work. Maybe you are thinking of the diode mod on your map sensor, which you will still need your maf for your car to run correctly. Please don't respond with a question as it will have nothing to do with this diy.
Michael on May 15, 2012:
where do i find the inlet air sensor on a mkiv golf? I have a part that apparently if i connect in with this sensor it will override the MAF sensor. Saving me buying and replacing another.