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Honda “Check Engine” Light: What Could Be the Problem?

Updated on January 04, 2017

Your “Check Engine” light comes on when your car’s onboard computer (or PCM, Powertrain Control Module) records some kind of problem. This onboard computer runs your car so that it has optimum fuel economy and low emissions. The PCM creates a code indicating what part or system malfuntioned (electrical system, oxygen sensors, and so on). Your tech (or you yourself) can get the code from the vehicle and look up its meaning (for example, here).

In the meantime, you’re probably wondering: what are the possibilities? Is there something going on in your car or in your life that triggered this “check engine” situation? Where should a mechanic start looking to find the problem?

Ten Questions to Ask if Your "Check Engine” Light Comes On:

1. Has your car been in the shop for service recently?

2. Have you fueled your car recently?

3. Did you possibly overfill your fuel tank?

4. Have you installed any new electronic devices recently?

5. Did your “check engine” light come on after driving through a deep puddle?

6. Do you have excessive humidity in your car caused by a water leak?

7. Do you live in a rural area where there are lots of critters?

8. Are other warning lights illuminated on the dash?

9. Did your car sit for a long period of time without anyone driving it?

10. Were you the last one to drive your car?

And Two Bonus Questions:

1. Is the car running normally?

2. Is the "check engine" light flashing?

What Light Are We Talking About?

Don’t confuse your "check engine" light with your maintenance reminder (a light that goes on automatically to remind you it’s time for a routine service). If you’re not sure, check the index in your owner’s manual, under “warning lights.”

"Check engine" light:  at left, with a yellow engine-shaped icon (2011 Honda Pilot)
"Check engine" light: at left, with a yellow engine-shaped icon (2011 Honda Pilot)
This small yellow light (labeled "maintenance indicator") is not the "check engine" light (1991 Honda Accord)
This small yellow light (labeled "maintenance indicator") is not the "check engine" light (1991 Honda Accord) | Source

Should You Panic? Ask Your Two Bonus Questions First

Bonus question 1. Is the car running normally? If your car is running normally, and you have no problem driving it, the problem is not so severe that you need to panic. Of course you should not ignore the light; it is warning you of some problem with the emissions system. When the light is on, your car runs on default parameters, not optimized to reduce emissions and increase mileage, and so you won’t get the gas mileage the car is designed to get. Just call your mechanic or dealer to make an appointment within a reasonable amount of time.

Bonus question 2. Is the "check engine" light flashing? If it's flashing, it means you have a serious problem and you really should not be driving your car. It's flashing because it's saying “STOP!!! Hey Look At Me!!!” It’s saying your catalytic converter is being damaged. It’s probably a good idea to call a tow truck at this point; you don’t want to add to the cost of any repairs that are going to be needed.

Now a Closer Look At Each of the Ten Questions

1. Has your car been serviced recently? If your car has been in the shop recently for service, it’s quite possible the technician has caused your "check engine" light problem. Sometimes a technician will forget to reinstall a connector to a sensor, or not snap the connector back together completely. Or he or she may knock a connector loose while doing a minor service.

On older Hondas, the oxygen sensor is directly below the oil filter, so a technician removing the oil filter for a routine oil change might spill oil onto the oxygen sensor. It’s just possible, though not common, that a technician wiping oil off the sensor damaged it somehow.

On this 1991 Honda Accord, you can see how the oxygen sensor (little rat-tailed item) is located directly below the oil filter. You can imagine how easy it is to dump oil on it.
On this 1991 Honda Accord, you can see how the oxygen sensor (little rat-tailed item) is located directly below the oil filter. You can imagine how easy it is to dump oil on it. | Source

2. Have you fueled your car recently? If you didn’t tighten the fuel cap enough (or forgot to put it on altogether!), this could cause your "check engine" light to come on. All Honda fuel caps have a ratcheting device built into the cap to achieve a good seal and keep you from over-tightening the cap. When tightening your fuel cap, be sure to turn it enough to hear at least three clicks; that ensures the proper torque was applied. If your check engine light is on, simply check your fuel cap to make sure it is turned three clicks.

3. Did you possibly overfill your fuel tank? If you’re one of those people who like to top off the fuel tank, you need to break that habit, especially if you own a newer Honda. When the gas pump shuts off automatically, the tank is as full as it needs to be. To keep gasoline fumes out of the atmosphere, modern United States cars are required to trap the fumes and recycle them into the engine to be burned. Overfilling the tank can spill fuel into into tiny vacuum lines and filters, which in turn can clog emission devices (like the "evap canister" being replaced in the three do-it-yourself videos at the end of this article). Soaking these devices in gasoline will cause the "check engine" light to come on. Replacing the damaged parts could be costly, but the time spent diagnosing the problem could be even costlier.

4. Have you installed any new electronic devices lately, or had them installed by a professional? Everyone likes all the new gadgets available for cars these days, like back-up cameras, thunder-booming stereos, remote car starters, high-intensity-discharge headlights, and rear entertainment systems, to name a few. It’s just possible that the person installing your device may have blown a fuse, or worse, may have tapped into the wrong wire and caused that dang "check engine" light to come on again.

Check to see that all electronics in the vehicle are working properly (e.g. dash light, 12-volt power supply, interior lights). If everything is working properly, I would either test all the fuses (using a test light or a voltage meter is the fastest way to do that) or return the vehicle to the person who did the work.

5. Did your "check engine" light come on after driving through a deep puddle? This isn’t common but it does happen. After driving for a while on the highway, your exhaust can get extremely hot; if you then happen to drive through a deep puddle, it is possible for water to cool the oxygen sensor too quickly and crack the material inside the sensor. The oxygen sensor is located under the vehicle, usually in or near the catalytic converter where the temperature can exceed 600 degrees. If this sounds like your scenario, take your car to the dealer or your local mechanic.

You can see both oxygen sensors, front and rear, one in the front pipe before the catalytic converter and the other is in the center of the catalytic converter. If you hit a puddle deep enough, you could actually submerge the sensors.
You can see both oxygen sensors, front and rear, one in the front pipe before the catalytic converter and the other is in the center of the catalytic converter. If you hit a puddle deep enough, you could actually submerge the sensors. | Source

6. Do you have excessive humidity in your car caused by a water leak? Water on the front or back carpet in your car will often be coming from the front of the car somewhere; water flows towards the back because of acceleration, and because the floor is tapered towards the rear of the vehicle. If the water is only visible on the rear carpet, the leak may be in the rear of the vehicle.

The most common cause of a water leak is the windshield; sometimes a newly replaced windshield will leak.

If a leaky windshield drips water on an ECU (Engine Control Unit) fuse box or any other control unit, this willl cause a ECU failure and your “check engine” light will come on. Water is very damaging to all electronic devices (just drop your smart phone in water and see what happens).

7. Do you live in a rural area where there are lots of critters? Critters can cause all sorts of problems in cars, from horrible smells to chewed wires. If you live or work in an area where mice, rats, chipmunks. or squirrels can get into your car, they can wreak havoc on your cars’ electrical systems. Given the chance, critters will build nests and store food for the winter, and for some reason they like to chew wires. In fact, some car manufacturers assemble wire harnesses wrapped with mouse-deterrent tape, no kidding. It’s not completely effective but it’s a start. If a critter chews the right wires in your vehicle, it will cause the “check engine” light to come on, and an expensive bill! Replacing a wire harness is daunting and time-consuming.

Signs of critters in your vehicle are:

  • bad odors
  • acorns and nuts (or dry dog food) stored in the engine compartment or glove box
  • chewed carpeting
  • loud noises when the heating or air conditioning fans come on. Critters are notorious for building nests inside blower motor assemblies, causing all kinds of problems.

Rodent deterrent tape for wire harnesses
Rodent deterrent tape for wire harnesses | Source

8. Are other warning lights illuminated on the dash? In some cases, a failure in another part or system can cause your "check engine" light to come on. Multiple warning lights illuminated on the dash don't necessarily mean multiple problems, so don't panic. The lights could all be caused by a single problem: For example, if your alternator is not charging, or if it’s over-charging, it could cause low or high voltage in the system, which would cause many lights to come on.

9. Did your car sit for a long time without anyone driving it? Cars that sit for a long period of time are susceptible to a plethora of problems. Critters move in, batteries go dead, tires go flat, brake rotors become rusted and cause a pulsation when applying the brakes, pulleys rust and cause belts to squeak, and the list goes on. If you car sat for a while, your "check engine" light could come on because a sensor or solenoid is stuck, or for other reasons. Have it checked out by an honest mechanic; they are out there, you just have to find them.

10. Were you the last one to drive your car? If you were not the last one to drive your car and the "check engine" light is on, you need to start asking questions. Sometimes family members or friends who borrow your car spill soda or coffee on the console without telling you. On some Hondas, the ECM/PCM (engine control unit/powertrain control unit) is located below the center of the console, and sugary drinks can destroy this expensive control unit.

Write Down the Code

If you have a buddy, friend, uncle, or cuz that can check the code because they have a scan tool, make sure you write down the code, because if you decide to erase it, you’ll want to know what it was when the light comes back on (and if it’s an issue other than a loose gas cap, the problem will usually come back). It’s good practice for you, and good information to give your mechanic.

Buying a Scan Tool to Interpret "Check Engine" Codes

If you're going to buy a scan tool, buy one that will last for years. Vehicles are only getting more sophisticated each year, so plan for the future. The OBD2 system covers 1996 and later cars (the OBD1 system that covers older ones may be included, depending on the device). I recommend looking for these four time- and money-saving features:

  1. A display that includes a description of the cause of the warning light, as well as the code. This saves you time from having to look up the description that goes with the numerical code in a book or on the computer.
  2. LED display for state emissions readiness check and drive cycle verification. This feature will let you know if it will pass an emissions test.
  3. Battery backup that will keep the code in the device after you disconnect the scan tool, so you can review it and analyze it away from the car (even if you forgot to write down the code)
  4. A USB cable to update the information in your scan tool from your own computer. If you can't update the scan tool, it will be obsolete in three years.

INNOVA 3040 Diagnostic Scan Tool/Code Reader with Live Data for OBD2 Vehicles
INNOVA 3040 Diagnostic Scan Tool/Code Reader with Live Data for OBD2 Vehicles

The Innova 3040 scan tool has the features above and more, and should last for years.

 

DIY Repairs to Fix Evap-Canister-Related "Check Engine" Codes

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    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 11 hours ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Glenn,

      Keep me posted on what they find, this is very unusual. Did you just fill the fuel tank? Did you possibly put Diesel in your tank by accident? Let me know, thanks.

      Hi Rahman,

      The code is a misfire code in #2 cylinder. If you have never had the valves adjusted, it may be a good idea to have them adjusted now. It would also be a good idea to change the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs at the same time. The EGR code is a different code. This is very common in Honda vehicles over 100k miles and the service will cost about $600- $800, if the valves are not adjusted soon, it is possible to burn a valve if your problem is a tight valve. Let me know if this helps, and keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

      Hi Morinew,

      This could be a few different problems, and if you know the code I could help you even more. The vehicle either has a battery with a bad cell (this would be the reason for the green led to fad to black and the loss of battery poser so quickly) Or, the alternator is starting to fail (this would be the reason for the battery light to flash off and on, batteries don't cause this, alternators do) . Or the ELD (electrical load detector) is failing. Hope this helps, and if you have the code, let me know what it is and I can point you in the right direction.

      Hi Scott, Yes, your mechanic can give you the code, in fact, the mechanic should give you a printout of the code and it's possible causes. Let me know what you find, thanks Scott.

    • 2006 Honda pilot 46 hours ago

      Hi Eddie and Rebecca,

      My 2006 Honda pilot also has the yellow-outlined engine light on. It came on three days ago after severe cold. After reading your Q&A I'm going to stop by a garage and ask if a mechanic will scan and give me the code. I'll then report, back here, that code.

      Rebecca, were you able to get the code from your mechanic?

      Thanks, Scott

    • Morinew 2 days ago

      I live in Sweden, and I have a 2003 Accord (CL7), and for the last year the engine light has been coming on every now and then. It always goes away on its own after driving the car a few times, and it doesn't seem to affect how the car runs. The code that I get on my basic code reader is P0606 (ECU if I remember correctly). I first noticed it coming on during humid or wet weather near winter. From that point on I thought it might have something to do with moisture. But during summer I noticed it coming on again after a long drive with the AC on. After that it seemed like it would just come on after a while, regardless of the AC being on or off.

      Once I also noticed the battery light flashing for only a split second while accelerating when the check engine light was on. Over a month ago I replaced the ground wire to the battery in case it was causing a bad connection (the wire looked old, thin and rusty), I also hooked a smaller wire to another ground point for better connection. The symptoms were the same after that, the light came on and went away on its own like before. That was until a few days ago, when my brother had the car and he was about to leave the store parking lot it wouldn't start. The car is manual so he was able to push start it.

      When he got back I noticed the ABS light was on, and the airbag light was flashing. The defroster fan was going off and on, the rev, temp and gas gauges were all pointing to zero as if the car was off, and even the mid console display (for radio and climate control) went blank a few times. I tried turning the car off, and then attempted to start it again. It just gave clicking sounds, like the battery was dead. After letting the car sit for about an hour or so, it started up again like nothing had happened. There were no warning lights, and no fault codes. The only thing I noticed was that the little inspection window on the battery was black (it goes from white, black to green), and only a few days ago it had been green (indicating fully charged). I decided to charge the battery with a charger plugged into a wall outlet, the charger indicated it was fully charged after a couple of days. But the little window was still black (indicating half full). The voltage read 12.9v (I forgot to measure it before).

      Right now the car is at a service garage, and they have reported back that they cannot find anything wrong with the car. The battery and alternator are also fine, according to them. They asked to keep the car for another day to do further troubleshooting. But I am at a loss as to what to do, at this point I'm thinking sell the damn thing and let it be someone else's headache.

    • redwanurrahmanmd1 2 days ago

      Hi EDDIE

      Problem code is p0302. Honda pilot 2006 lx. Check engine light sign is on. Can you tell me what that code mean please?

      One said the problem is EGR and i have to install a valve to solve it and other one said problem with plug and i have to change them.

    • rahman 2 days ago

      problem code is p0302. Honda pilot 2006. Check engine light sign is on. Can you tell me what is the problem with this code please.

    • Glenn 3 days ago

      Last night my 2016 Civic started misfiring, wouldn't accelerate beyond 15mph, all systems were flashing as malfunctioning, and there was a strong smell of sulfur. It was towed to the dealer.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 5 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Michelle,

      Your car is still in warranty, all you need to do is bring it in to the Honda dealership and have them clear the codes. The very extreme cold temperatures are causing a lot of problems with cars right now and tire pressure is one of them. You'll just need to top your tire pressures off at about 35 psi, it's a little high, but I'm just trying to compensate for more cold temps in the near future. Let me know if this helps, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here ;)

    • Michelle 6 days ago

      Hello, I have a 2016 Honda CRV. Yesterday the temps were in the single digits. When I started my car the check engine, vehicle stability assist, electric power steering, AWD & tire pressure monitoring system lights were all on. The steering seems fine and I can make it up my steep driveway so I'm assuming the AWD is ok. The tire pressure light in every CRV I've owed comes on in the winter. Would the extreme cold cause this? Today the temps are in the 30's. I was hoping the warmer weather would resolve the issue but it hasn't.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 7 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rebecca,

      I wish your mechanic would have given you the code, at least I would know if it was the O2 sensor causing the problem. It's possible the O2 sensor heater is malfunctioning, but i'm just guessing without the code.

      Hi Chris,

      I don't think so unless you smell exhaust fumes inside the car. You'll need t have the code checked, there are a lot of things that can cause a check engine light to flash, usually it's caused by a running problem like poor spark or fuel related. Let me know what the code is when you find out, thanks.

    • chris 8 days ago

      Hi i have a 91 honda civic max, yesterday while driving home the engine management light started flashing intermitently the engine didnt stool but lacked power on low revs, when i got home and out of the car i felt light headed, could this be a problem with the catalytic converter?

    • Rebecca 9 days ago

      I have a 2006 Pilot. My indicator light came on yesterday. I took it to my mechanic and he reset whatever was needed but said if it sounded different or the light came back on, he'd need to spend a little more time on it. It drove fine the rest of the day and I was coming and going several places, so it was turned off and on several times during the day. This morning, it came back on again. I had my husband take me to work because I was afraid I'd do damage if I drove it. However, I was also wondering if the extreme cold we are having here had something to do with it too. I was only 3 degrees yesterday, and today was 3 below. Could the cold have a part in this, and if I try it again later today when it is supposed to be warmer (upper 20's or low 30's) and the light doesn't come on, does that mean I'm good? Thanks for your time. :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 12 days ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rhonda,

      Yes, it's not a good idea to drive the car with the check engine light flashing. I recommend having a valve adjustment done ASAP. It sounds to me like you have a tight valve and it's possible you may have already burnt a valve. The valve adjustment should run about 2 hours labor plus a valve cover gasket kit. You may need to go to a Honda dealer because your mechanic probably will not want to tackle that job. If you caught it in time, the valve adjustment should take care of the rough running and check engine light, if you're too late and you burnt a valve, the cylinder head will need to come off to replace the valve and have the head checked for any other damage. Cross your fingers :) and keep me posted on what you find.

    • Rhonda 12 days ago

      Hey Eddie, I have a 2008 Honda CR-V. I started it up, and it was running a little rough. I had 1/4 tank, did a fill up, and was aware that I only clicked the gas gap one time when I usually click it twice. Right away the car started running much rougher. I put in a bottle of HEET, suspectng moisture in the line. Took it to my neighborhood mechanic who pulled a code for 2nd cylinder misfire. He cleared the code, and checked again and that's the only code it spits out. I was going to get the oil changed anyway, so I also had spark plugs changed. They cleared the Ck engine light, but car is still running rough, and the light will come on, go off, flash, etc. I have 134K miles on it. About 30K miles ago I had new coils put in. I'm thinking of changing the coils again. Any other suggestions before heading to the dealer? I'm guessing I should not be driving it too far if the light is on-off-flashing, right?

      Thanks!!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 2 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Gene,

      I recommend checking all your fuses in the under hood fuse box and under dash fuse box. Did the O2 sensors come pre-wired with the connector or did you have to sire the connector?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 2 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Laura,

      You just spend $300 with the garage and they didn't fix the problem. I recommend bringing it back to have them recheck it. Obviously they charged you for an improper diagnosis and now they should look at it again at no charge. Don't let them intimidate you, you spent good money for a BS repair. Let me know if you have more questions. The VTM-4 light is on because the check engine light is on. Ask for the code or look for it on the paperwork and let me know, thanks.

    • Gene 2 weeks ago

      I have an 2003 Honda CR-V which is showing two codes a P1166 and a P0141. I replaced both the 02 sensor and the air/fuel sensor. The codes will not erase and the check engine light stays on. The codes come on immediately after I erase them, with my code scanner. I replaced the 02 Sensor with a Denso and the air/fuel sensor with a Bosch. Any sugestions will be appreciated.

    • Laura 2 weeks ago

      Hi! I have a 2014 Honda Pilot, and about two weeks ago my check engine light came on while I was driving a little later the ATV-4 light came on. I took it in to the dealer and they changed my oil ran a diagnostic test and said I had some sludge and that was the problem. So they added something to clear the sludge and charges me $300. A few days later the lights came back on. After about 3 drives the engine light comes back on, then while I'm driving the VTM-4 light will just come on and will make my car jerk. If I stop and turn the car off it will go off, but the next time I drive it will come back on. Then today I went to start my car and it won't even start. Do you know why this could be happening? It is not under warranty anymore it has 69,000 miles on it.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 4 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Yvonne,

      I recommend checking the oil level first. If the ticking noise just started, you could have a loose rocker arm and the valves may need adjusting. Do you know what the code is?

      Hi Tao,

      If the oil light is on, most likely the oil level is low or the oil pressure switch is failing. I recommend checking the oil level and then having the code pulled. Let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Sonny,

      Sounds like a misfire to me, but what is causing it. There are a lot of reasons for a misfire, timing could be off, injector could be clogged or open continuously, the distributor base could be seizing, etc... Do you know what the coed was/is? Let me know.

      Hi Lori, Welcome to NH ;)

      The skip could be anything, but tight valves are common in the pilots if you have never had them adjusted, coils are also common. I recommend having the code checked and go from there. Pulling the code will point you in the right direction and will be a good starting point. Keep me posted on what the mechanic says, thanks.

    • Lori Lavin 4 weeks ago

      I am from Alabama, Recently moved to NH. I have a 2008 pilot. 197,000 miles on it. Last wed the engine light came on. I redid the gas cap and Thursday it went out. Friday night I started it up at work and the light came on flashing. It was idling rough and didn't seem to want to go. After it warmed up the light stopped flashing and it appeared to drive ok. Yesterday the same thing. I have an andndppointment of have it diagnosed. Can you give me some idea of what might be wrong with it?

    • sonny 4 weeks ago

      My question is i have a 2001 honda accord lx 2.3 liter my check engine light is blinking and the car is shaking when running i had it checked and they told me it was misfiring so i changed the spark plugs and wires but still doing the same thing any help much appreciated

    • TAO 4 weeks ago

      I have both oil and check engine lights on. What could this mean?

    • Yvonne 4 weeks ago

      I have an 07 Honda Pilot and my check engine light came on the other day. My engine has been making a ticking sound. Would you know what that cause is?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 5 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Cheryl,

      No need to replace the computer, but something is malfunctioning causing the MIL light to come on and the "D" light to come on. The first step is to pull the code from the computer, that should point you in the right direction. Most likely you have an external solenoid on the transmission that is failing, but without the code, you'll never know which one. Have the codes pulled and go from there. If you have more questions, I'll be right here :)

      Hi Shella,

      Do you have the code they pulled? Like I just told Cheryl, without the code it's like throwing darts at a wall with no bulls eye. Your engine is due for a valve adjustment and spark plugs (due at about 110K miles) but I think your problem is related to the gas tank evap system. Do you overfill your fuel tank or stop pumping after the gas pump clicks off? It's not OK to over fill. Let me know, thanks.

    • Sheila 5 weeks ago

      The check engine light on my 2012 CRV (mileage approx. 106,000 KM) comes on only in cold weather when the gas tank is full. Once the gas tank goes down to about half full the check engine light goes off. When the weather warms up the light does not come on. The dealership cannot determine what is causing this and suggested I replace the gas cap. I did so but still have the same problem. Hoping you have some suggestions as this on again off again engine light is driving me crazy. Thank you. Sheila

    • foursavages 6 weeks ago

      Hi there,

      This is a great article, and I'm having an issue, which is what brought me to your site. Last year, in Christmas of 2015, my check engine light came on. Basically, my car would only drive in low gear and the D4 was red, I think. Anyway, I drove home slowly, because I like to be careful. Anyway, my mechanic had to fit me in, because it was the holidays, and once he did, he said he thought it might be a fluke. He's a good mechanic and man, so I believe him. One year passed, and like clockwork (about 30+ degrees out), it happened again. I took the car in, and it's a Honda 99 Accord DX, and he changed the oil, checked everything out, and he still said he wouldn't replace the computer unless this become chronic. I went home, and things seemed fine. I had to park the car outside for a bit in the cold, and when I went to drive next, I saw the check engine. As the mechanic instructed, I turned it off and back on, and it started working and undid and reset the fuse. The car ran. It seems like this is connected to cold weather. I'm on the fence about computer replacement. Is his idea to wait okay? Does this often occur or have you heard of this occurring at higher speeds on the freeway? And as a mechanic, what would do suggest with the description and the fact that it did run one year without coming on? Thanks and I hope this makes sense, Cheryl

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 8 weeks ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rhoan,

      Do you know what the code is? If you can get me the code I can help point you in the right direction.

    • Rhoan 8 weeks ago

      I have a 2002 Honday Odyssey, F23Z Engine. The Chech Engine light comes on and remains on. The mechanic told be it was the knock and Crank sensors that gone bad. I gave those to replace. After few hours of receiving the car, the light is back on, the engine cannot be reved out at it reached 3 rpm the engine starts to stutter. What could possible be the problem?

      Thanks for your assistance.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bianca,

      No That shouldn't have anything to do with the check engine light. Have the code checked, it will point you in the right direction. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

    • Bianca Smith 2 months ago

      My 2005 Honda Odyssey engine came on when I had my hood up tightening my antifreeze too?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kristen,

      I really all depends on how hot the catalytic converter got. You'll find out soon enough if the cat is OK or not. I recommend buying a cheap code reader from Amazon or any auto parts store. You can buy one for about $20, that's all it can do is read the codes and clear them, but it works. Let me know what you decide to do, thanks.

    • Kristen 2 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2005 Honda Accord Hybrid that I drove for 11 miles with a flashing check engine light. I read your previous answers stating the catalytic converter can be ruined if driving with a flashing check engine light. Would driving 11 miles ruin it? Should I have it checked just in case? Also, my husband fixed the problem (replaced spark plugs and coils), but now wondering how to reset the check engine light? We googled to try and find out and one person said to remove a fuse for a few minutes then replace it, but that was on an older Honda. Any suggestions other than bringing it to the dealer ship (where I get most of my maintenance work done?) Also, places like AutoZone can reset them, but the one I called said to unhook the red cable from the battery for 5 minutes and reattach and that should reset the light.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
      Author

      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks Jose,

      I really appreciate the feedback :)

      Hi Bob,

      I recommend calling Honda and getting a starting a case. If Honda put in a part that is not compatible with the original parts, it's their problem, not yours.

      Hi Tim,

      Disconnecting the battery doesn't reset the PCM. There is a code in the PCM that should point you in the right direction. The car is under warranty, so I recommend you call the Honda dealer, ask them to put you in a loaner vehicle until the problem is fixed.

      If the dealer refuses, call Honda and start a case. If your daughter is too young for a loaner vehicle, have her drive your car and you drive the loaner vehicle until the car is fixed. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

    • Tim 2 months ago

      My daughter has a 2016 Honda Civic 4 door sedan (164 K miles). The check engine light is always on. This despite service visits to Honda & Acura service centers. Error codes are examined & change each time they are examined. Disconnecting the battery cable & allowing for a system "reset" use to work for the purpose of passing inspection. Since the last Acura service visit this "reset" method no longer works. Any ideas? (since last service visit the Driver Air Bag light is always on)

    • bob burgess 2 months ago

      my daughter has a 2003 hch and a dealer agreed to replace the battery pack under some consideration from honda so it did not cost her very much ($200). now the check engine light is back on and the dealer says that it needs a new mcm for $1700. they claim there is a software compatibility issue with the original mcm and the new batter pack but indicate that the original mcm is ok. what is happening here??

      thanks,

      bob

    • José Perez 2 months ago

      Great Job Bro!

      Gracias for all your típs!

      Thou shall get rewarded for all you share!

      Blesssings!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lorens,

      If your check engine light is on, your vehicle will be running on default settings, so your vehicle will not be getting optimal fuel mile or have optimal performance. Let me know if this helps, thanks.

    • Lorens Lucero 2 months ago

      I have a 1999, Honda Accord v6 & i've been told my car is in a limp mode? Does the car computer really cause that ?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Paul,

      Did you use a feeler gauge and check each valve to the spec that Honda recommends? The spec is on the under side of the hood. Valves should be adjusted every 105k miles and plugs should be changed at the same time. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

      Hi Laura,

      No, all codes should show up at the same time. I believe the check engine light came on because your speedometer stopped working. If the speedometer is not sending a signal to the PCM, the check engine light should come on. I think you should ask for all the old parts they replaced, they may be taking advantage of you. Keep me posted on what happens, and have a nice vacation :)

    • Laura 3 months ago

      I have a 2010 Honda Civic with just over 100,000 miles. The check engine light came on this past Monday evening. It was not flashing but my speedometer stopped working so I had my car towed to my dealership. They called Tuesday morning to say it would be $100 before they ever checked my car. Later that afternoon they called to let me know they still hadn't figured out the code. On Wednesday they called and said the code indicated the PCM needed to be replaced (they quoted $800+). They ordered the part, replaced it Thursday morning, turned the car on to test drive it and another code came on. Late on Thursday they called to say the code indicated the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced (quote $160). They ordered the part and replaced it Friday morning. When I didn't hear from them Friday morning I called and they told me after they replaced the oxygen sensor another code came on. I had vacation plans so they told me to go on my vacation and they will keep working on my car. BUT..this is becoming a financial crisis for me. I expect to be told up front what is wrong with my car and the estimate to repair it so I can make a decision whether it is with it to have the repair done. In this case, they are giving me repair quotes one code at a time. How long can this go on? Can't they identify all codes/issues right away? Is it normal for one code to be identified at a time?

    • Paul B 3 months ago

      My 2005 CRV recently developed the engine light issue, at 90,000 miles. It had been mis-firing, slight hesitation, for a while. TBH, my idea of maintenance is "best left alone until it goes wrong, but with regular oil change". I suspected spark plugs, as I've never replaced them. But from forum comments, was also worried valve gaps might be closed up. So today, I checked. The valve gaps were fine, probably same as the factory set them. However the spark plugs were very sad, not much left of central electrode, maybe three times the specced gap. Changed them, misfiring hesitation is gone. I need to wait a few cold starts to see if the en9ine light goes out. I expect the misfiring had caused unburnt fuel/air to get to the cat and emissions sensor. Hoping no damage done, we'll see!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi SvilenD,

      All cylinders are missing,so if you have a fuel pressure gauge, try placing it inline so you can watch it while your driving. I wonder if your losing fuel pressure while sitting at 3000-3500 rpm, possible pump failure or restriction in the line, or fuel pump screen?

    • SvilenD 3 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Just something else that I just tested here - the check-engine pops up while at idle as well. Based on what I know about the V-tec, it will only engage when the car is in motion.

      Oil filter has been changed with a genuine Honda, V-tec oil control valve is clean enough.

      What else we might be missing? Thanks for your help.

    • SvilenD 3 months ago

      Thanks a lot for your input, Eddie.

      I'll try this the following days and come back to let you know how we did. ;)

      Cheers.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi SvilenD,

      No need to apologize for poor English :) I can understand you just fine. It sounds to me like it has something to do with the V-TEC system like the spool valve is sticking, that's just about the RPM range for the V-TEC to engage, or you have poor oil pressure at that RPM. I first recommend replacing the oil filter with a Genuine Honda oil filter. If that doesn't fix the issue, you may need to remove the V-TEC oil control valve and check the screen for debris, clean it and re install it. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

    • SvilenD 3 months ago

      Hello Eddie,

      Hope you're all doing good. Let me first apologize for the weird English - not my mother language.

      I have this 8th gen Honda Civic 1.8 S, 2006, hatchback (140k km) and I'm having the so-famous "random misfire detected" codes thrown constantly. Codes are P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304.

      Here's what have been done so far:

      1. Spark plugs NGK - changed. Coils are okay.

      2. EGR valve cleaned.

      3. Flowmeter - cleaned with air sensor cleaner.

      4. Fuel injector added - STP.

      5. Valve ajustement has been made.

      6. Replaced the whole chain with the tensioner.

      7. ECU switched and tested from another car - issue persists.

      All tests have been made by my mechanic:

      - Balance test

      - Vacuum lines

      - Compression test

      - Air and fuel filter changed 3 months ago (the car was already running with the "Check-engine" while it was changed).

      We're thinking the whole problem comes from the RPM, not the engine load as everything works fine. For some reason it seems there's a fuel lean between 3000-3500 RPM which causes the engine to misfire. We noticed the arm-shaft (or rocker arm, hard to find the translation) is loading a bizarre noise as well. Do you think this may be the reason?

      Except this, the car is running smoothly once above the 3500 RPM - enough acceleration, torque and power. Only if I stay between these RPMs for around even half a min - the led pops-up.

      The strange thing is that the "check-engine" led starts to flash only between 3000-3500 rpm and if I go quickly beyond this revs, all works just fine and the car is running smoothly. If for some reason I stay between 3000-3500 rpm for around half a min, the led pops-up and the cars loses power, then respectively - needs to be turned off/on - then all fine.

      Do you have any ideas what may be the reason for this?

      Thank you in advance and have a good one!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Keith,

      Sorry, I didn't see your post. The first thing to do is change the oil and install a OEM Honda Genuine oil filter. Some aftermarket filters cause this problem, so before your replace the pressure switch, change the oil. Keep me posted, thanks.

    • Keith MacFarlane 4 months ago

      Thanks Eddie,

      The Honda crv ex has over 185,000 miles. Funny on way to get code checked again the check engine light turned off pulling into auto zone, no skip at idle. Two days later same thing a buck at 2700-3000 rpms and check engine on again. Got the code read and it was P2647….Vtec oil pressure switch circuit high voltage. Thoughts if this really is the problem? I guess I could buy the part and give it a try….not sure where it is and if it is something I could do? Much thanks on your valuable input.

      Keith

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Keith,

      How many miles are on the engine and what is the code now? Bucking is usually cause by a lack of something, fuel, air, exhaust flow, etc... Does the engine have a skip at idle at all? Let me know, thanks.

      Hi Katey,

      If the MIL light is flashing it means you could be doing damage to the catalytic converter so don't drive it. On some of the Pilot engines there is a problem with the piston rings.

      The piston rings on certain cylinders may rotate and align, which can lead to spark plug fouling. This can set DTCs P0301 No. 1 cylinder misfire detected, P0302 No. 2 cylinder misfire detected, P0303 No. 3 cylinder misfire detected, P0304 No. 4 cylinder misfire detected, and cause the MIL to come on.

      American Honda is extending the powertrain warranty to cover repairs related to engine misfire (that triggers DTCs P0301 through P0304) to 8 years with unlimited mileage from the original date of purchase.

      If this sounds like what you have, see your local Honda dealer or call Honda and get a case number, they will tell you with Honda dealership to bring it to. Hope this helps.

    • Katey 4 months ago

      Hi,

      I have a 2012 Honda Pilot. Everything has been fine with it but the other day the MIL and the VSA light both came on. I read the owners manual and it said that if i had recently gassed up, it could be related to the gas cap. So i checked the cap, tightened it and waited a couple days. The lights went off. At this point there was no issues with the way the car drove. About a week later, i gassed up again (same gas station, same pump) and the next morning the same lights were on again. This time, the car felt like it was skipping. Now the MIL light is flashing. ANY ideas?? Thanks!

    • Keith 4 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Happy to stumble on this thread, I’m a southern neighbor in Dracut MA. I see you have helped many people here maybe you can help me too. OK: 2004 Honda CRV EX , over a year ago check engine light came on with bucking when trying to go over 3000 rpm’s, and AutoZone said code was 02 sensor and cat. Was going to get cat changed but mechanic said doing this may not fix problem so I did tune up and cleaned air intake valve and problem went away for a year. Now the same problem has been happening again but it comes and goes……..check engine light comes on with bucking at 3000 rpm’s but check engine light goes out, sometime the same day and drives fine for a few weeks then same thing, any feedback much appreciated.

      Keith

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Good to hear Susie, thanks for the feedback :)

      Hi Xavier,

      We would see a lot of distributor bearings wear out and cause all kinds of problems because all your gaps would change inside the distributor. Thanks for the update, I really appreciate the feedback :)

      Hi Al,

      A bad fuel pump would not turn on the check engine light, low fuel pressure may because of the results of low fuel pressure, but the mechanic should have checked the fuel pressure before condemning the pump. Do you know what the code was?

    • Al 4 months ago

      Honda Odyssey emissions light on.

      Had it checked by a meter and showed fuel pump needed replaced.

      Had that done, same day the light came back on?

    • Xavier 4 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I wanted to give you some feedback about my 98 CRV: the complete distributor was changed (remanufactured Cardone on Ebay, it is unexpensive and quality seems good). It runs great again: the problem was there, although nothing was visible. We think probably a deffective hall-effect sensor, difficult to pinpoint. Kudos for running such a great subject. Many thanks.

    • Susie Kauai 4 months ago

      Engine is on in my honda and reading you article I know that I can drive it a short distance to get to my dealer to see what is wrong . My light is not flashing so for now I am ok. thank you

    • Arun 4 months ago

      Great article and lot of useful information. Keep up the good work.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi AJ,

      Here in the states we use a scan tool to check diagnostic codes. If I knew what code was stored in the ECU I may be able to help. Removing the catalytic converter would only cause the check engine light to stay on.

    • AJ 4 months ago

      My son-in-law purchased a 2004 Honda Stream with the 2.0 petrol engine two years ago. 60,000kms.

      No problems, until the engine light came on during a 3 hour journey a year later. OK until halted at say lights, when engine would stop. Turning ignition off and on quickly, car would start and run OK for 10 minutes or so.

      Honda diagnosed as sensors, which they replaced with new. Did not fix problem, so re-fitted old sensors.

      Honda then advised probably fuel pump. New pump fitted. Did not fix.

      Honda dealer advised the engine variant was only fitted for a short period to domestic Japanese models (high pressure, direct injection version of the K20). Did not want to assist further, but probably a new camshaft would fix.

      New camshaft fitted by a different garage. Did not fix problem.

      He's struggling to find anyone really keen to work on it. The engine seems to have a reputation.

      Any suggestions, other than buying a new engine?

      We can disable the catalytic converters legally here. Might that solve the problem?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ray,

      The check engine light is on because there is a fault in the system somewhere. Have the code pulled, that should direct you to the problem. You may need to do some extra testing to pinpoint the problem, but checking the code is the first step.

      Hi Arsalan,

      Sounds to me like you're losing battery connection. I recommend checking both battery terminals for looseness. Keep me posted, thanks.

      Hi Leogob2000,

      You'll need to have the code checked, sounds to me like you have a leak in the evaporative system (emissions). Let me know what the code is and maybe I can help diagnose the problem.

    • leogob2000 5 months ago

      I have a Honda CRV 2011. I have had check fuel cap light on and off for about a year now. For the past 3 months, it goes off and the check engine light takes over. If the check engine goes off, then the fuel cap open light comes on. What is the cause? I changed the oxygen sensor, still no help.

    • Arsalan 5 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a Honda Civic 2010, My car is running perfectly but there is one problem that it trips off while driving and gets on itself. When it trips of for a micro second all the lights on the meter gets on and FM also switches off and then it goes on automatically. One day when i was at the signal and the car was stopped, it switched off and didnt turn on then I had to close the ignition and then turned it on.

      I gave it to the agency to detect the fault but they could not detect any problem. Can you please help me with this? Thanks

      Arsalan.

    • Sparrow 5 months ago

      Hello,

      Pls i need a help, i just fixed extra sound system in my honda ballade but suddenly the car does not run fast until i get to high way, i notice this fault immediately after fixing the sound system what could be the problem? I need urgent help. Thanks

    • Ray 5 months ago

      Hello! I have a civic 95 and the check engine light comes on while driving. What I do is pull over and restart the car and the light disappears. Also, this only happens once every other day. By the way, I drive like 30km a day. The car is running fine though.. It just bothers me to see this come on every now and then and I indeed have noticed the my fuel consumption went up eversince. Thank u eddie!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 5 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Saki,

      Possible loose gas cap? It's under warranty, so I recommend bringing it back to the dealer and have it checked under warranty.

    • saki 5 months ago

      Hi,

      I have a new honda odyssey 6 bought 6 months ago brand new. has 1000 miles on it.

      shows check engine light on it. i use it less than a mile every day.

      what could have gone wrong with this honda.?

    • Vivek 6 months ago

      Hi,

      The article is truly awesome. I have a 2010 accord ex-l v6 with 100k miles just completed. The car us in good shape but it feels sometimes that it is lurching. I got a flat tire yesterday and took it to the dealer to fix it as i didn't had the wheel lock key. After leaving from there drive 13 miles to office and then back to home another 16 miles. But during my trip back th check engine light turned on.

      This is not the first time that it has turned on. The last time it turned on was also after servicing. I got it checked and the code was 1002 - Fuel system too lean. After the mechanic erased thr code it never went on again till yesterday.

      What should i do? Should i it checked for the code or wait for some time? They can provide me the code for free but the cost of running diagnostics is $109

    • Xavier 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie, the ignition coil inside the distributor showed a small crack so it was replaced (NGK). Unfortunately it didn't change the symptoms. Nothing else suspicious in the distributor area. Now the mechanic think it's the high RPM sensor that is faulty. Let us know if you have suggestions to troubleshoot parts rather than replacing them (almost) randomly. Thank you.

    • Doubis 6 months ago

      i have a 1992 honda accord.sometiemes when i come in the morning and contact the key the engine come on and i have to wait for two hours when i contact again the light goes off.sometimes i have to wait for the next day then the light will go off.the light never comes on when im driving .it always happen when i want to start the car..any help please

    • Doubis 6 months ago

      i have a 1992 honda accord.sometiemes when i come in the morning and contact the key the engine come on and i have to wait for two hours when i contact again the light goes off.sometimes i have to wait for the next day then the light will go off.the light never comes on when im driving .it always happen when i want to start the car..any help please

    • Igor 6 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I have a Honda Pilot 2005. Yesterday, we took a trip that was approximately 60 miles long. Somewhere in the middle of the trip, we fueled our car at the gas station BP. We usually use the fuel type Plus. After we left the station, our car started to weirdly shake, at small intervals when the car was going at a relatively slow speed. However, on a higher speed it almost did not shake at all. A little later, we noticed that the check engine lights and the VTM4 lit up. But, the check engine lights either started flashing or were just lit up constantly. By the end of our trip, the car was shaking even more. We would appreciate any of your advice or explanation as to what is happening with our car. Also, thank you for all of the helpful information on your website.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 7 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Xavier,

      I think you have something wrong with the distributor, either the cap, rotor, coil or ignitor. If it were valves, the engine would develop a skip first and then get worse. Start with ignition by removing the cap and inspecting the inside of the distributor. Let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Hollis,

      I recommend back tracking and reinspecting the distributor, it sounds like either you have a bad plug, plug wire , moisture under the cap or loose rotor. Let me know what you find, thanks..

    • Pete 7 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I have a 1998 Honda CRV. It intermittently kangaroo hops down the road. Sometimes almost stops dead. Generally, the emission light is also displayed, but turns off as soon as I stop and restart the car. Two local garages have checked it out. One replaced the MAF sensor, but it made no difference. Any clues as to the cause? Thanks, Pete

    • Hollis 7 months ago

      Have a 94 Honda del Sol having issues she broke down seem to be electrical so have changed full distributor started running again until the next day engine check light came on and has now started stuttering engine sounds fine just feels like it is pulling back any ideas?

    • Xavier 7 months ago

      Hi Eddie, my 98 CRV stops suddenly and without patterns, with the yellow check engine light on. It can happen whenever: engine hot or cold, low or high RPM, using power or not. Usually it restarts after at least a few minutes. Otherwise the engine runs smooth as usual, when it stops it's a "very clean" stop. I located the diagnostic plug (under the center lower dash, passenger side) and shorted the plug hoping to read an error code: no flashing, still solid light on, no error (I disconnected a sensor on purpose to check the error code and it did flash as it's supposed to). I also disconnected the O2 sensor but no change, reconnected it after cleaning it. The only thing I can think of on this car (being more mechanically than electronically inclined !) are the valves adjustment (not been adjusted for a while) and the fuel filter (not replaced for a while). But the engine runs smooth otherwise... any suggestions? Thank you for all your posts.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 7 months ago from New Hampshire

      No, a long trip should never cause any problems Valerie. Some component may have failed during the trip, but the trip is not the cause. She'll need to get the code pulled and system tested. Let me know what she finds out, thanks.

      Hi Joe,

      Sorry so late on the reply. ECU failure is unusual, but not impossible. A second opinion would be a lot cheaper and it may be something simple. Keep me posted, thanks.

    • Joe Butler 7 months ago

      I came out of a super market after a 2 hours drive and tried to start the engine. I noticed a red light in the shape of an oil can and beside was another red light with the battery shown. The care would not start. I was told not to try to start it and get it to a honda garage for to check the ECU UNIT. I am now told that I have to get a new ecu part at a cost of 1400 euros. Is this a rip off or am I getting good advice. By the way the part has to come from Germany.

    • Valerie 8 months ago

      My daughters 2006 Civic emissions light went on. She just moved cross country and drove 1700 miles. can the long trip make it come on?

    • Craig 8 months ago

      Yes, i just had the 09 honda fit serviced, oil filter. Now it is sporadic on rpm 2-3000, doesnt hold idle well ( goes to 500 rpm) your tbought on an oil sensor.spill.may be my solution. Thanks.

    • John 9 months ago

      Hi . My emissions waring light came on after driving for 1 hour through rain. After 4 days parked in the sun the problem was solved. The warning light disappeared. When I had the problem a mechanic diagnosed a new Lambda sensor was needed. Thank goodness this was not required.

    • Kim 9 months ago

      this what the dealer said : ran system DTC scan found valve pause system stuck off Bank1 -common PRB w/ valve pause system error is oil pressure can be low- changed oil filter and test drove car. No codes returned at this time . Changing oil and filter is first step in diagnostic procedure.

      This number was included at top 3536 IPS

      Thank u again for responding and ur advice !!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 9 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Charles, you may want to check that location again I don't think your looking in the right place, the purge control solenoid should be located near the intake. Let me know what you find, thanks. If you cant find it let me know.

      Hi Kim, Did the dealership tell you what code it was? Your vehicle falls within a power train warranty extension for piston rings. Most mechanics don't like to do this job because it's a lot of work and they don't make a whole lot of money. The service bulletin # is either 13-075 or 13-082. Here is the background on the service bulletin "American Honda is announcing a powertrain warranty extension as a result of a settlement of a class action captioned, Soto et al.v. American Honda Motor Co., Inc., Case No. 3:12-cv-1377-SI (N.D. Cal.).

      The piston rings on certain cylinders may rotate and align, which can lead to spark plug fouling. This can set DTCs P0301 No. 1 cylinder misfire detected, P0302 No. 2 cylinder misfire detected, P0303 No. 3 cylinder misfire detected, P0304 No. 4 cylinder misfire detected, and cause the MIL to come on.

      American Honda is extending the powertrain warranty to cover repairs related to engine misfire (that triggers DTCs P0301 through P0304) to 8 years with unlimited mileage from the original date of purchase and has settled a class action based on this remedial measure." Hope this helps. You may need to call American Honda if the dealer will not help you. Keep me posted on what happens.

      Hi Jesusgirl, Yes, as long as the engine is running good.

    • Jesusgirl 9 months ago

      My 05 accord had trouble starting today and when at idle it was shaking and the engine light came on. After driving it home about 30 miles...the shaking stopped but you could feel that it was a little hesitant when using the gas.

      My mechanic is about 30 miles away...is it safe to drive it if the shaking has stopped but the light is on?

    • Kim 9 months ago

      We have a 2013 Hunda pilot . Filled up on gas and made sure gas cap was tight . Next day was driving and malfunction lamp came on. When I pulled over to check it I noticed the engine vibrating or making a rattling sound . I also noticed that when I went to drive it, it was very sluggish going forward and in reverse but once I got it up over 40 mph it leveled out but if it reached over 60 mph the engine started shaking again, almost like having a stick shift and going from first gear to third and not having it in the right gear , if u know what I mean. It also had no pull when going up hills . We took it into a Hunda dealership and was told they could not find anything wrong , other than the oil was at 40 percent life and they changed the oil and filter ( oil lamp indicator light has not come on)?Just really odd that the car would do all of this with the oil life being at 40%. Do have any additional information. Car is running fine now but have never had this happen before .

    • Charles 9 months ago

      Have a 2004 Honda Accord ex with CEL PO497. Was told that could be purge evap canister solenoid located next to the EGR valve. It looks like a very awkward location. Is there a easy way to access that unit for DIY installation?

      Thanks for your help.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 9 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jenny,

      If after driving the car for a few days, the check engine light is still on, you'll need to have the code pulled, it could be something as simple as a failed O2 sensor. If the light goes out, the problem has corrected itself and there is no need to worry. Let me know what happened, thanks.

    • Jenny 9 months ago

      So my 2007 Honda Pilot check engine light came on I drove about 90 miles on it while I was driving home I saw all the lights came on including the check engine. And my car felt like it was loosing fuel or something like that when I stopped and checked if it was the fuel cap it was loose so I tightened it and it ran ok and all lights came of except the check engine light. I checked it the next morning and the check engine light is still on.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 9 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Torri,

      Sorry for the delay in responding, just so busy at this time of year it's hard to keep up :)

      Hey Anyonecan,

      Is it the same code as the one before the engine swap? The V-TEC solenoid failure is usually caused by low oil or a clogged V-TEC solenoid screen. Never use any additives to a Honda transmission, only use Honda Genuine Transmission Fluid, otherwise you'll could cause some serous shifting issues. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

    • anyonecan 9 months ago

      Eddie, thank you for posting this helpful article. I am curious if you have any advice on my issue.

      I have a 2002 Honda Cr-V with a check engine light on. The code pulled was a P1259 VTEC Failure. Initial suggestions were the torque converter failing, the transmission possibly failing, oil leak, and lastly my sensors were malfunctioning.

      I ended up starting with a transmission service "Dr. Shutter Additive", then replacing my engine (they started with the O2 sensors and tested it before replacing the entire engine). The check engine light is back on and I'm open to any suggestions you may have as to what may be causing this.

      thanks!

    • Torri Gillespie profile image

      Torri Gillespie 9 months ago

      Thank you so much for responding to me!! I am on Day 6 without it messing up so I am hoping it is fixed :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 9 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Torri,

      Absolutely, battery terminals need to be tight at all times, if they are loose it can cause warning lights to flicker and definitely cause a no start condition. You should be all set with the new clamps :)

    • Torri G 9 months ago

      Oh and I might add before I reset the ECU we noticed that the battery cables were so loose that we could pull them off by hand without tools, so I had them check the battery to find out it was good, then got some metal caps to put over the battery post from the part store and ensured that the cables were tightened on tight. After I left the parts store I went straight home and reset the ECU. So I guess another question is could the loose battery cables have caused the problem in the first place? Thanks so much for your help

    • Torri G 9 months ago

      Hi there I am having issues with the 2003 Honda Accord 3.0 automatic that I just bought from a relative, so 4 days after having it something crazy happened I was slowing down my speed and the CEL came on for a second then went off and the car started buckling it threw a P0685 error code which is something with the ECU, then once I got home and killed it it wouldn't start back up like the battery was dead. So I had a friend take off the ECU to see if it was bad and it wasn't so we put it back on then jumped it off and the car started back up just fine. Went and drove it had no problems, well exactly 1 week later same thing happened, killed it and it wouldn't start back up. I went and bought another ECU from a salvage company and put it on but my car wouldn't read it. So we put the old one back on and it started right back up, I then reset the ECU by taking the fuse out for 15 min then back in then started it and let it run for 15 minutes without touching anything then killed it then started it again. I am currently driving it again and its been 4 days with no problems. If it happens again what do you think the problem is? I am really scared to keep driving it I have 2 small children and I am so scared of breaking down its unreal :(

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 10 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi KSTARK3132,

      The VSA light came on because the check engine light was on, the VSA will automatically turn off the when the check engine light comes on. If the check engine light stays out, it means the problem has fix itself for now.

    • kstark3132 10 months ago

      Hello,

      I filled my gas tank up on my way to work. When I started my car to go home my engine light and vsa light was on. I pulled over and restarted the car. The Vsa light went out (it did come back on once more and i did the same and has not been back on) and 2 starts later after tightening the gas cap the engine light is out. Should I not worry. The VSA light is throwing me.

      Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 10 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Paul,

      Not usually, unless you accidentally connected the jumper cables backwards, but usually that would blow the main fuse. I recommend having the code checked first and then you 'll know what caused it to come on. I know that sounds too simple, but that really is the best plan of action. Let me know what the code is, thanks.

    • Paul in Naples 10 months ago

      I used my Honda 2004 CRV to jump a friends car. My car was left running during the jump. Right after my malfunction indicator light came on. Gas cap is on tight. No noted change in performance. Could jumping another car cause the light to come on?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 10 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Doug,

      Something is causing the misfires, it's possible your EGR valve is not working properly? How many miles on the engine? Have you ever had the valves adjusted? Let me know, thanks.

    • douglas 11 months ago

      2008 accord 3.5 : emission control light on, codes 301, 302 303 300: car driving normally, perhaps a slight vibration at idle. garage has cleared codes twice, but light has later returned (2 months , a couple of weeks later) mechanic confused: new plugs - old ones looked fine - no excess oil usage, light and codes return?? no eco light so fuel consumption much higher. many thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 11 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dan,

      Do you have a cold air intake on the vehicle? Also check if there is an airflow sensor in the intake tube, if so, check it very carefully for any debris, so use a flashlight. Is the check engine light on? If so, what's the code? Let me know what you find, thanks.

    • Daniel 11 months ago

      2005 honda civic lx, drove the 5 hours back home from charlotte, just fine all the way. Get off the interstate, hit a pothole filled with water. After about 2 miles it starts knocking a sputtering when accelerating. Rough idle. Drove the other 2 ish miles back home since auto zone was closed. Checked oil, it was fine but needed just a little so I put it in. Still didn't help. Do you think it just messed up my cat/sensor? When idle and pressing the gas slightly you can hear it sputter pretty bad. Steering wheel is very shaky as well when idle. Any information would be great. Also, thanks for the tip on not overfilling, wasn't aware of the problem that could cause. Stopping that now.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 11 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jessica,

      A misfire could be a spark plug, coil, injector, piston rings, valve.... the list can go on. I recommend having it checked just in case it is something simple so you can get it replace asap and be on you way. Let me know what you find or if you have more questions, thanks.

      Hi Alaina,

      Drive the car for a few days and see if the light goes out on it own, the O2 sensor may have kicked the code. If the light goes out in three days, you're all set, if not, have it checked. Keep me posted, thanks.

    • Alaina 11 months ago

      I have a 03 Honda Accord and I left my car idling for an extended amount of time (3 hours) & the check engine light is now on. Should I be worried?

    • Jessica 11 months ago

      I own a 2007 Honda Civic hybrid and n U heck engine light was flashing so I thought to immediately stop, because when's it's flashing it has to be something serious . When I stopped I turned off the car and turned it back on and then the check engine was no longer flashing just on. I assumed everything was fine then. But I still wanted to see why the check engine light was on so I hooked it up to the computer and it says there's a cylinder 3 misfire . I just replaced the ignition coils so I'm not sure what else it could be . I tried driving it the next day and it the check engine light came on still flashing !! And so I just drove it back home and haven't drove it since . If anyone has an idea please let me know !!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 11 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bong,

      What is the code?

    • Bong 12 months ago

      I have a 2001 honda civic after about 30 minutes of running the engine check light comes out and the engine will stop when i started it again it will run again and stop after a few minutes.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 12 months ago from New Hampshire

      Sorry Littlepiglet1977, I don't have a good answer for your problem, I have very little experience with Diesel engines.

      Hi Khan,

      What is the code? What did you do to fix a plug wire? What is the year make and model of your vehicle?

      Hi Croz,

      You'll need to have the code pulled first, that will point you in the right direction of what is malfunctioning.

    • Croz 12 months ago

      Hi driving a 08 Honda Jazz and it just lost power and had to crawl along to safe spot. Stopped engine and it ran ok but the engine malfunction light stayed on. Any ideas

    • Littlepiglet1977 12 months ago

      Anyone any ideas yet on my shunting? Issues described above. Xxx

    • khan 12 months ago

      check engine prob, battery -ve and +ve both connector off one by one and both same time too for 10 minutes but light came back in some seconds, what cause the reasone , I had problem one ngk wire but i fix myself it after check engine light was coming ,going and car was shaking when start........now i fix wire again now car is not shaking but ....check engine light stay perminent ?

    • Littlepiglet1977 13 months ago

      My 2006 2.2 diesel Honda Civic is still playing up so hoping you have some advice.

      A number of warnings have been coming on to check system -

      Engine oil

      VSA

      ABS

      Air bags

      Also the car keeps shunting now and again - if in cruise control it switches it off sometimes and shunts or when not in cruise control it decelerates, shunts, until you take foot off accelerator and then re press it.

      This week I spent over £500 but the shunting has started again.

      All issues coming up on computer have been fixed and many things replaced:

      oil sensor has been done, speed sensor done, fuel filter done and new battery too. Nothing more showing up on computer.

      Also glow checked and are okay and feeds to glow plugs checked and that's fine. Also there are no fuel leaks.

      Any idea what's causing shunting and how to correct?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      Sorry Scottie, I didn't see your comment. As long as the check engine light is not flashing you can drive it, if it's flashing, have it towed. Keep me posted on what happens, thanks.

      Hi XIOBOX,

      If you just bought from a Honda dealer, (or any car dealership) they should have at least a 30 day problem free policy. It sounds like your exhaust has a leak and the code is most likely the O2 sensor code. Let me know if you have more questions, and keep me posted on what happens, thanks.

    • XIOBOX 13 months ago

      Dear Eddie: two days ago I bought an Honda accord 2001 coupe v6 in motorcars Honda in Cleveland. First day was ok. Today the light of engine is on permanently and the engine sounds really louder. I reviewed the fuel cap and is ok. What do you think? I just pay 3500 for the car and I want to be prepared when I take the car to Honda again. Appreciate your help a lot!!!

    • Scottie 13 months ago

      Thank you for the advice. One quick follow up question- if the car doesn't feel like it is going to stall, is it safe to drive it to Autozone (to exchange the battery and read the codes), and then to the mechanic or is it too serious and I should have it towed?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Scottie,

      No that should not effect anything but you should have put the correct battery in with out altering anything. The check engine light is flashing because the engine is misfiring and dumping raw fuel into the exhaust causing the cat to overheat (don't drive it with the check engine light flashing, you'll cause more problems). I recommend having the codes pulled before you go any further and fix the issue. The code will point you in the right direction. let me know if you have any other questions, and keep me posted on what you find out, thanks Scottie.

    • Scottie 13 months ago

      My battery died on my 2002 Accord V6 Coupe. A friend drove me to get a new one and trying to install it i realized quicky that the positive and negative terminals were swapped. A neighbor took the battery box out to make enough room for the cables to reach across the battery.

      It was fine yesterday and i as still deciding on if I needed to swap out the battery.

      Today, I drove about 1/2 of a mile and made a quick stop and then planned on going to work. When restarting the car it immediately felt off. Driving confirmed a very rough idle and not long after a flashing check engine light.

      I drove back home and started research.

      Could it be a battery issue? Directly with the battery? Movement if battery?

      I saw on a form that i should have waited and let it 'relearn its idle' and not driven it immediately. Is there any truth to that?

      Also, the old battery showed some slight corrosion on the positive terminal. I add this because it was in other posts. The amount and Nee Orleans driving conditions + age of the battery didn't cause me any concern at the time.

      Any thoughts would be very appreciated!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi TM,

      I need two things, I need to know what was broken and what the code was, it should be on your paperwork, thanks.

    • TM Woods 13 months ago

      The engine light of the Honda Civic was on steadily when when I was driving on the highway. The car starting to run very slow about 20-25 miles even I kept pressing the accelerator, it didn't seem to shift gear and it couldn't reverse either. It could only go forward 25 miles the most and engine was very noisy.

      I went to check with the mechanic he told me something about 2 things were totally broken and he was surprised I could drive my car for so long. The cost he quoted me for the repair was $750. I didn't ask him about the code because I did not know anything then. Could you please give me some insight on this? Thank you.

    • Ajmath 13 months ago from Bangalore

      Good, super , awesome

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      The mechanic should test the sensor before replacing it so he's not just guessing. The sensor should be pretty inexpensive. How much is the estimate? Maybe a second opinion or quote?

    • Littlepiglet1977 13 months ago

      No codes when he checked. Mechanic was worried that if he charges me a fortune to replace oil pressure sensor the problem may not go away. Hence I'm desperate for answers before I pay out money x

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      When you bring the car in for service, have them check the computer for any codes, if there is a code it will point you in the right direction.

    • Littlepiglet1977 13 months ago

      Yes check engine oil light keeps randomly coming on when I drive and jolts the car. But plenty of oil in!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      Start with replacing the oil pressure switch, then have the fuel pressure and injectors checked. Diesel engines don't use spark plugs, they use glow plugs and compression to run, so if your fuel pressure is not right, you going to have a problem. Is the check engine light on?

    • Littlepiglet1977 13 months ago

      Thank you anyway. Appreciate your response.

      No ideas how to try to fix it then? X

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 13 months ago from New Hampshire

      As far as the oil light flashing, it probably just the oil pressure sensor. I'm not familiar with diesel engines but if it's stalling it most likely has to do with poor fuel or injectors. Sorry I don't have a better answer, I just never had the opportunity to work on diesels.

    • Littlepiglet1977 14 months ago

      2.2 CTDI EX

    • Littlepiglet1977 14 months ago

      It's a 2007 diesel civic.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 14 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi DTK,

      Sorry for the late response, I didn't see your post. It's sounds like maybe one of your coils is not firing properly. I recommend getting the code checked to see why your check engine light is on. Let me know if you have more questions, and keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

      Hi Sandra,

      It sounds like your fuel pump is starting to fail. It sounds like your fuel pump is supplying enough fuel for the engine to run but not enough to accelerate. I recommend having the fuel pressure checked, it's the quickest way to know if the fuel pump is running properly. Keep me posted on what you find Sandra, thanks.

      Hi Little pig,

      What is the year make and model of your car?

      Hi Joe,

      If the speed sensor has failed it could turn the check engine light on because the computer has no speed input. It won't hurt the engine but it will hurt your fuel mileage . Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

    • Joe 14 months ago

      I was driving down the highway and speedometer suddenly dropped to zero. A few second later the check engine light came on. Odometer also quit turning. Engine sounded and performed normal, so I continued home. Speedometer sometimes jumped up and bounced around then dropped back to zero. Could the check engine light be caused by just a bad speedometer / odometer cable? Is this something that could damage engine if I continue to drive?

    • Littlepiglet1977 14 months ago

      For the past 12 months I've had a warning light pop on when it wants "check engine oil". Now and again I would be driving and this light would pop on and my Honda would jerk forwards. If in cruise control it would turn cruise control off. Now and again when I'm stopped at traffic lights it just stalls. My mechanic checked the car when service and mot'd last month and could find no fault.

      Today is any icy cold morning. I went to go out and the car wouldn't start at all. "Check System" light came on. I tried for a while but nothing.

      Been back to it just now and it's started first time.

      I NEED it fixing but no idea what exactly it is that needs to be fixed.

      Any ideas? I have to leave for work super early each day and don't want the stress of being stuck X

    • Sandra 14 months ago

      I have a 2003 honda civic ex. My check engine light came on and was running ok still. The very next day before i could have it scanned my car started to shutter after filling up my gas tank..since then it has started and idled just fine but anytime i try to accelorate it shutters and dies again what do u think the problem would be??

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 14 months ago from New Hampshire

      You have an engine code and transmission code stored it the computer Gerardo. You'll need to bring it to a shop that can pull these coeds for you and tell you the definitions. Let me know if you have more questions.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 15 months ago from New Hampshire

      Awesome John, it may have cost a few bucks, but it's a lot less than a new car, plus you know everything about your car, who knows the problems you could have with a used car. Thanks for the feedback John, it really helps other readers with similar problems.

    • John 15 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I ended up replacing the catalytic converter and have had ZERO issues. It's been such a dependable car, glad I am able to keep it! Closing in on 320K....thanks to sound advice I'm hoping to drive to 400K!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi John,

      I would drive it for a few weeks to see if the the light goes out, an O2 sensor can give you a false reading as well. Don't jump ship just yet, you can drive it with this code for a while and you won't do any damage.

    • John 16 months ago

      As luck would have it, the light reappeaered. The Catalytic Converter is the cause. As stated earlier, I keep my car in pristine condtion. Knowing when to say it's time to move on is a challenge. Not sure if I move on OR replace the part and hope for the best. Could the 02 sensor go outor is that the same part? Peace of mind is key. Just trying to figure it out.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hey John, thanks for coming back with an update, I'm always curious to see if I'm close on price because there is such a big swing in cost in automotive repair. Glad you found a shop that took care of it without overcharging you :)

    • John 16 months ago

      Thanks Eddie........Replacing the sensor worked. Ended up costing 315.00 out the door. The shop did a complete inspection of the vehicle and there were no issues that came up, so I am pleased. Try my best to take care of this ride and keep it in great shape. Thank you for taking the time to offer your advice, it is very much appreciated!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      I believe you made the right call, just replace what has failed. Not sure on price, I can't see it being over $250 diag and labor to replace, + parts. Let me know how you make out and at what price, thanks.

    • John 16 months ago

      Having the Cam shaft sensor replaced. It was suggested to have the crankshaft sensor replaced at the same time but I deferred. Hope I made the right call. What do you think is a fair price to diagnose and have the cam shaft sensor replaced?

    • John 16 months ago

      Thanks Eddie.....The code ended up being P0340.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Luigi,

      If the garage who gave you a quote of $400 is a reputable garage and you trust them, have them repair it but I wouldn't replace the complete transmission.

      Hi John and thanks,

      You need to have the code pulled to see what caused the light to come on, then that will point you in the right direction for what is causing the driveability issue. Keep me posted on what code(s) you find, thanks.

    • John 16 months ago

      Hi, very informative web site, thank you. My check engine light came on during a rainstorm last night. I needed to drive to work this morning (35 mile commute) and light was on the whole time. Got some vibration, and high RPM (between 3 and 4) at times. Loss of power at times but then it came back as normal. 2004 Civic with 315K. Any ideas? Planning on having it towed to garage after work.

    • Luigi Morini 16 months ago

      Hello Eddie, thanks again for help.

      The light came back in next day, I went to several services and they are giving me different options and prices, from $400 to $800 to fix it or even better around $2500 to change the entire transmission! I am pretty confused what to do, otherwise the car runs the same except some very small vibrations (I don't know if that comes from the engine or transmission) here and there from the speed of 50 to 60mph.

      Eddie, I would like to have your opinion cause it's really a maintained car, with a car fax - serviced regularly from the previous owner and I really need it to fulfill my kids needs.

      Thank you

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi PJHonda,

      Just have your mechanic pull the code, it may be related to the work they just did. Let me know what the code is, thanks.

    • PJHonda 16 months ago

      Hi - I have a 2001 Honda Accord V6 - my check enginge light came on and then I noticed I was leaking coolant fluid - brought it to my mechanic and he changed the radiator.

      After a few days (and after I fueled up) the check engine light came on again. I made sure I had the 3 clicks (habit knowing this can cause the check engine light). As it had just been looked at - I asked mechanic to give a good look over; could I maybe just need a new gas cap? Or is it something else - just in case I just opened the cap and closed it again.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      OK, that's great Luigi. This could be caused by a sticking valve or an electrical problem. Drive it for a few days and see what happens. Keep me posted Luigi, thanks.

    • Luigji Morini 16 months ago

      Yes Eddie, I went there and, there is a code; P0741 Torque Converter Clutch Hydraulic Circuit Stuck Off ! He said that, it is a transmission and he can check in two places to fix it. We erased the code for now to check if the same code will come back!!

      Thank you Eddie

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Luigi,

      The engine light is on because of a malfunction with the emissions system and you will need to pull the codes from the cars computer (you'll need a code reader to do so). A lot of auto parts stores will pull the code for free so check you local auto parts stores. Once you know the code, you can decide if the problem needs to be addressed immediately or if it can wait. Let me know if this helps Luigi, thanks.

    • Luigi Morini 16 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I have a 2007 Honda pilot, a month ago I changed the oil of the car, but the coolant tank was under minimum. Week ago the engine light came on and I filled with the regular coolant (50/50 green color) above the maximum accidentally. Now is four days after and the light is still on.

      Could you please tell me if the light came on because of that or there is really something I have to check at the dealer? Nothing changed on the driving.

      Thank you

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 16 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rayhan,

      I don't recommend any other color bulbs other than bright white, I find that the color bulbs don't last long. You should never touch the bulb because of the oil in you skin, it will shorten the life of the bulb.

      Hi Jay,

      I recommend pulling the code from the computer first to find out what's wrong, the code will point you in the right direction. There are a lot of things that can cause that problem, spark plugs, coil, EGR valve or ports, etc... Let me know what the code is, thanks.

    • J72dolphins 17 months ago

      Hi Eddie. Great web page. You sound like you have a great knowledge of cars. I have a 2002 Accord 4-cylinder with approx. 116,000 miles on it. The check engine emissions light just came on yesterday and also the car hesitates a little when I make a turn and in between when I apply the brakes and then accelerate. Like a pre-stall mode. What do you think the problem is? Thanks very much. I'm bringing it to my mechanic tomorrow. Jay

    • Rayhan 17 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Will make sure not to touch the glass. Is there any specific reason for not touching it?

      Any experience with the below type of bulbs?

      http://www.amazon.ca/Sylvania-SilverStar-Performan...

      Yeah may be he was a lazy guy:):)

      The gears are shown on the dash but I just wanted to have it on the prindal. If its such hassle, then lets not go there and save some money;)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rayhan,

      I recommend the xtravision bulb, and don't touch the glass with your fingers during installation, if you touch it by mistake, wipe it off with a clean dry towel. I'm pretty sure the prindal has a bulb, I think you just asked a lazy tech, lol. Changing the bulb in the prindal is a lot of work. Does it show up on the dash?

    • Rayhan 17 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Been more than a month but the engine light hasn't come on yet...Thank God:)

      However, one of my headlamps bulb went off twice within 2 months. dont know whats wrong with it:(

      Gonna replace both headlamp bulbs tonight. Any suggestions which one do you think would be better from the below:

      http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sylvania-silvers...

      or

      http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/sylvania-xtravis...

      or

      http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/certified-haloge...

      Anyways, if you remember we talked about the prindal light which doesnt come on at night when I switch on the headlamps, I went to Honda and they said that I have to buy the whole assembly (don't know what exactly) which would cost me CAD 70/-...thats excluding the labour. Another thing, he wasn't sure if the prindal light comes on or not:(

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Keshia,

      I recommend just clearing all the codes and never pull fuses when the car is running, lol. The car should be fine, keep me posted on what happens, thanks.

    • Keshia 17 months ago

      I have a 2003 Honda accord I was checking the fuses inside the car and the ones under the Hood well I didn't know the car had to be shut off any who one of the fuses I pulled shut the car off so when I went to crank the car back up the ABS tcs brake and check engine lights are on now and the d4 light is flashing took to auto zone the code they gave is for the transmission um computer I think..could it just need to be reset or could I have damaged something by pulling the fuses with the car cranked??

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jenny,

      Your issue may just be a loose gas cap, and if the check engine light went off it means your problem has corrected itself. You can purchase a much cheaper code reader then the one described on this page on Amazon or at any auto parts store, but if you do decide to buy one, I recommend buying a very basic code reader because that's all you'll be doing is retrieving and clearing the code, and most of the new code readers work on all cars. Let me know if you have any other questions :)

    • Jenny Parr 17 months ago

      Hi. Thank you for your helpful web site. I looked it up because this is the 3rd time in a year my check engine light has come on. I was horrified that Honda charged me $500 .00 a year ago but had to pay it. 6 months later it came on again and I raised the roof asking if they program these things to break down every six months just to make money and if was going to cost me $1,000.00 every 6 months I would never buy another one. Magically it turned off by itself a few days later. Now it is on again. The third time in a year. It is running well and I only put about 3,000 miles on it a year. I am not confident that I would know how to use the gadget you described but am willing to try as I feel I am being ripped off. Women are such targets that way. Can you tell me where to buy one cheap ? I can't spend hundreds of dollars especially if I have to buy a different one on the next car (whenever that might be).

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 18 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ken,

      If the engine is burning oil, most likely that's why your check engine light is on. Engines burn oil for many reasons, so without looking at it personally, it's impossible to diagnose why it's burning oil.

    • Kenneth 18 months ago

      Hello Eddie I'm having problems with my 2003 ex Honda Accord. The check engine light is on and my car shakes when I'm driving it also it burns the oil through the exhaust pipes. I don't know whats wrong with my car a little advice would help with my situation.

    • Rayhan 18 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      No engine light till now. So I didn't go to the dealer.

      the car is running fine. Hopefully there is nothing wrong with it.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 18 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Geshom,

      Any time the check engine light doesn't come on with the key on, it usually means there is something wrong with the PCM.

    • Geshom 18 months ago

      interesting site. I have a honda edix 3x2 its cranking but cant start. Battery warning light and engine check light does not go on when you switch on igntion. I have checked all fuses and they seem to be fine. I need your help

    • Rayhan 19 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      The light did come back on last week and the dealer asked me to bring the car to him. I though of going to see him on the weekend. So I drove the car normally as I would. But the light disappeared the next day and hasn't come back on yet. So I didn't take the car to the dealer. I am pushing the car a bit harder than usual to see if it would come back on but nothing yet.

      Have to take it to the dealer for the prindal light anyways, so might as well ask him to check for the engine light.

      Will let you know when I see him.

      Thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 19 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Rayhan,

      Did the light come back on yet?

    • Rayhan 19 months ago

      Alright.

      Will keep you posted.

      Thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 19 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Orville,

      Look at your paperwork and let me know what code was pulled, then maybe I can help solve the problem, thanks.

    • Orville 19 months ago

      Having sputter/bucking with a 2007 Honda Fit Aria when driving and sometimes the splutter/bucking worse which caused the car to shut off and then the check light comes on. Took it to a local mechanic and it was scan and the code showed that it was the cam/crank sensor. I purchase it and have same replaced but I'm still getting that spluttering/bucking and then the car shuts off again when I'm going to my work... When I was about to leave work this morning the check light came off but I'm still getting that spluttering/bucking. So frustrating. Really need some advice. Thanks in advance.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 19 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rayan,

      Sorry I have been MIA for the last few days, I'm usually a lot quicker to respond. Yes, I believe the prindal should light up when you head lights are on, and yes, push the car as much as you like, it should not cause any lights to come on, if it does, the vehicle has a problem and they need to fix it. K keep in mind, most check engine light problems have to fail 2 times during 2 drive cycles before the check engine light will come on.

    • Rayhan 19 months ago

      Eddie,

      I would like to know if the PRNDD32 beside the gear lever should light up when I switch on the headlights at night?

    • Rayhan 19 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Should I push the car a bit more than usual to see if the light comes up? At this point I can ask the dealer to fix it as its just 2 days that I bought the car from him. Do you think it would be ok if i do it?

      Ofcourse I will keep you posted.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 19 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rayhan,

      No, that's not true. Most likely you'll need to either replace the catalytic converter or O2 sensor. You should be able to push the car as hard as you wish without causing any codes if the car is working properly. Keep me posted Rayhan.

    • Rayhan 19 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      The dealer checked by plugging in something to the car's computer and using some app on his phone to connect to the car's computer. The error was bcz of the catalytic converter. He removed the error and has asked me to drive it normally as I would and see if the light comes on again. If it does, then bring it to him for detail check.

      He said that sometimes, the catalytic converter signals an error if the car is pushed/accelerated hard. I dont know if it makes any sense.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 19 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dennis,

      That sounds awesome, I have never been! Did you have any luck with your 02 Accord? Did you test the cat? If you have a laser digital thermometer you can test the cat yourself, check the temp going in and out of the cat. The temp going out should be 100 deg hotter the the temp coming in from the engine, if it the same or close, the cat is no good. Keep me posted Dennis, and thanks for the offer :)

      Hi Rayhan,

      The possibilities are endless unfortunately. Some of the most common problems are the canister vent shut valve, purge control valve, and O2 sensor. Wait and see what the dealer says (they should fix it for free if they are reputable) and let me know what they say. Hopefully it's something simple.

    • Rayhan 19 months ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Interesting stuff...you have helped many people it seems.

      2 days back, I bought a honda civic 2005 from a dealer (not honda) and this morning the engine light came on.

      I filled the fuel tank 2 days back (when i got the car) and did only 100 kms till now. The car already has 120,000 kms on it. The dealer says he has to check but i still want to ask what could be the possible problems.

      Any help would be appreciated.

    • Dennis Chalfont 19 months ago

      Hey Eddie I was just at Thompson Speedway in Connecticut with Formula Lites powered by Honda last weekend. If we go there next year (high probability) I can set you up with 2 guest passes if interested.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 20 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Dennis,

      You may have a catalytic converter deteriorating. I recommend having a mechanic (who knows how to check a catalytic converters performance) check the catalytic converter. It is also possible you got a faulty O2 sensor. Let me know your thoughts, and if you have questions, I'll be right here.

      Hi Michelle,

      This may sound like a silly question but.... are you sure it was the check engine light? If there is no code stored, there is no way to know what caused the light to come on. Let me know.

    • Michelle 20 months ago

      Hello Eddie,

      I have an 02 Honda Accord. My check engine light came a few weeks after getting the oil changed. My husband went to Auto Zone and checked it with their code reader and it did not give a code. It said ok. Do you have any idea what this problem could be?

    • Dennis Chalfont 20 months ago

      Hello Eddie,

      A friend's daughter's 01 Accord 4 cyl has codes 1166 (Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater system electrical) and 1167 (Primary HO2S (No 1) Heater system. when she took it in for smog a few months ago, she was told that the O2 sensors needed replacing. The car ran good and the check engine light was not on, but the 1166 and 1167 codes were read by the code reader. Went to autozone, got a replacement 02 sensor with the plug rather than the "Universal" wire in unit. After installation, light was still off and it ran fine. She drove it to the mall and the check engine light came on. I went over, checked the codes (I have a code reader) and the same codes came up. I reset them, ran the car for several minutes, all OK. Then she drove it again today and the light came back on. Have you come across this before; will the light reset on it's own or is it a bad HO2S?

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      Eddie Carrara 20 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Pushkar,

      When the mechanic checked the code, they must have reset the light and cleared the code. Thanks for the comment and your feedback, I really appreciate it :)

    • Pushkar 20 months ago

      Thanks for you wonderful blog! I have 06 Honda accord and check engine light got illuminated 5 days back. after reading your blog I checked & found that fuel cap was not tightly closed. I closed it tightly and then drove around two full drive cycles 5 miles each in two days but it didn't want off. I also found that Engine Oil level was also low however my oil level indicator still shows 40% oil life. Today I went to service center to get the codes & changes engine oil. Code reported si P0457 which is related to fuel leak due to loose cap. Now every thing is fine light is not illuminated upon engine start. but i don't how this light wentoff automatically after oil changed & code check.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 20 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tiffany,

      I doubt it was the oil change that caused the light to come on. It's best to have it checked as soon as you can, but as long as it not flashing, it's probably nothing major. You could wait till mid may as long as it doesn't start flashing. Let me know if you have any other questions Tiffany, thanks.

    • Tiffany Downey profile image

      Tiffany Downey 20 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I have an 06 Pilot and the emission warning light came on yesterday. I had the oil changed about a month ago, could it take that long for the light if they had messed up the oxygen sensor? My tank is half full and I always triple click the gas cap. Should I be worried it's something else? And how long can I drive it like that? I was planning to take it in around mid May to have the motor mounts replaced anyway...Thanks so much. Tiffany

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 21 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi RaviK,

      Nope, you have two temperature sensors on that vehicle, one at the bottom of the radiator and one on the engine. I believe the one on the engine is for the temp gauge, and the other is for the cooling fan. Let me know what happens, it would be great info for the other readers, thanks.

    • RaviK 21 months ago

      I have a 2005 Honda Accord (driven by my daughter) that has a check engine light on for sometime now. The car runs fine but after reading this great post and since none of the 10 reasons applied had her take it to a mechanic. The guy has said it was something to do with an engine temperature sensor *yep.. I know I should have talked to him myself :-)). Is it possible he was referring to the oxygen sensor? Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 21 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lucas,

      First I would check the oil level, if you oil is low, add to the full line and recheck the problem. If the oil level is OK, I recommend checking the catalytic converter, it's possible your's is clogged. Do you hear any strange noises coming from your exhaust under heavy acceleration like a hissing? Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

    • Lucas 21 months ago

      Hi, my Honda Accord 07 has developed a fault which no one can help me with. The "check engine" light came up few months ago during a long journey, initially the car behaved normally after some time the car wasn't accelarating beyond 60mph and 3000 revs... It's been like this ever since. The light comes on and off but whenever is on all I'm getting above 60mph is some jerking movement and I'm unable to accelarate. I've checked the code and it has come up with P2647'Actuator rocker arm control system stuck on'... Before investing heavily in this car could you give me your opinion? Thanks, Lucas

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Muyiwa,

      Your car is still under manufactures warranty, Did you bring it to a Honda Dealership??? If you bring it to a Honda Garage and get the real codes, I can help, but at this point, I'm not sure what an AVS code is ? I know eps is "electronic power steering" and tpms is "tire pressure monitoring system", but these have nothing to do with each other. Get me the Honda codes and I can look them up, what you have, is generic codes from a generic code reader.

    • muyiwa 22 months ago

      Hello, have got 2013 honda accord. check engine light, avs eps and tpms on the dash. I scaned it and p0193 came up. av changed the fuel rail presure sensor like twice but its still on. pls can u help me out here.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 23 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tim, you can go to my other site SimpleCarAnswers. com ( I separated the .com to avoid putting too many links in my comment boxes ) and look under DTC's, you will find all the codes there. Let me know if you can't find them and I'll send you the link.

    • tsmog profile image

      Tim Mitchell 23 months ago from Escondido, CA

      Hello Eddie. The gas cap did not do the trick needed. :-( But, that shed a great light. Thank you!! We found a place of business that will pull codes no charge. They won't tell you what they mean, which having been in the auto trade since 1972 I say is very reasonable and kind too! I have a source to share the codes. From there he can make a decision as we also pray a prayer or two. Again, thank you and God Bless :-)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 23 months ago from New Hampshire

      You're welcome Tim, and thank you for sharing. If you need any more advise, I'll do my best to help :)

    • tsmog profile image

      Tim Mitchell 23 months ago from Escondido, CA

      Thank you very much Eddie :-) This article is a God send. A friend had a challenge and we are now able to follow the path you provided. Hopefully it turns out to be the New fuel cap installed and not enough clicks. I will hear from them later. First, we decided to clear the codes with the battery negative terminal/cable disconnected. I hope he calls saying 'No light' now. If not, then as you highly recommend have a professional pull the codes to get to the next road sign on the pathway :-)

      tim (Voted - shared - bonuses)

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      Eddie Carrara 24 months ago from New Hampshire

      OK CoastC, if you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to find me :) Good luck car shopping for your sons new car!

    • CoastC 24 months ago

      Okay - good deal, Eddie. I'd like to continue with the diagnosis and all, but I think I'm gonna cut my losses and look for another vehicle for my son :) I'll sell it to CarMax or some place like that - I don't want to pass it on to someone else to fix. Thanks for all your great advice.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 24 months ago from New Hampshire

      Hi CoastC,

      I still think you need to have the catalytic converter, in and out temps checked, it's the fasted way to check the catalytic converters performance. Keep in mind that some cat's can be relatively cheap $350 - $500, it all depends on where you go for repairs. I don't think changing out the coolant has anything to do with this problem. Anyways, thanks for the good info, an still keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

    • CoastC 24 months ago

      Hi Eddie, I just wanted to report back that the CEL came back again - ugghhhh. Now, I was taking it in to Midas to have them inspect the whole exhaust system. The guy at the desk stopped me before we got that far - he wanted to look under the hood. I'm from VA, but he noticed that my son's car required CA emissions specs by the tag under the hood. He was sure that it was the type of 02 sensor I replaced the old one with. Sure enough, the first one I used was not rated for CA emissions. So I replaced it again with one that was... and it still came back. I then decided to look at all the stats coming from the reader. I checked values on the net. One of them said that the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) should be at least 190 deg, otherwise the computer would add fuel which might result in running rich. My stats show 186.8 deg. I'm not sure if that's enough of a difference or not, but it jives with the very first P0138 reading when the problem first started (possibly running rich). Also, I noticed that both 02 sensors (upstream and downstream) were coated with black sooty like substance when I removed them. And finally, it dawned on me that just prior to the overall problem started, I had it in to a shop to have them adjust a squeaky belt and they recommended that I drain and flush the coolant. I told them to go ahead and do that. I wonder if that has something to do with it. At this point, I'm probably way beyond my skills as a DIYer, but at least I have some info to provide to a shop somewhere. Not sure if I should go to a dealer or another shop for help at this point - any suggestions? I'm not sure how much I'll put into it if the cat actually needs to be replaced. The guy at Midas told me that it could cost between $700 to $1000 to replace it. Again, I just wanted to provide info in the interest of possibly helping others with the same problem. Have a good one.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      You're welcome CoastC, and thank you for the updates, they are as important as the article :) Cross your fingers, and keep me posted.

    • CoastC 2 years ago

      Okay - for the latest, not long after reporting last time, I drove the car and the light came on again - code was P0420 again. So I decided to call Midas to see if they could, at a minimum, inspect the exhaust system. They told me that it was the catalytic converter as the code says, but then I happened to mention that I had previously had a P0138 code before changing the downstream 02 sensor. Upon hearing that they told me that I should try changing the upstream sensor as well before looking at the catalytic converter because the two sensors were probably reporting results that were too far off from each other or something of that circumference. So... I bought and installed an upstream 02 sensor. I test drove it and so far so good. I'm taking it for a longer test drive tomorrow. Hopefully this is it. Thanks again for all the awesome info.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      OK CoastC, sounds good, and thanks for keeping me posted. P0420 is a catalytic converter code. The only way I know how to check a catalytic converter is to measure the temperature going in and coming out with a laser pointer thermometer. The temperature coming out should be 100 deg hotter then when going in. Hope this helps.

    • CoastC 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie, I just wanted to pass on that I borrowed a scan reader from a friend and now the code is actually P0420. That's the first check after replacing the down stream 02 sensor. I've been reading that there could be multiple causes of that also (including a bad catalytic converter). For now, I've put in a gas treatment (Sea foam) and cleared the code. In 15 to 20 miles of driving it has not returned. If I learn more, I'll let you know. Thanks.

    • CoastC 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have not heard an exhaust leak. It sounds normal when I accelerate. Thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi CoastC,

      If there is a crack in the manifold you would hear the exhaust leak, and yes it would or may cause the check engine light to come on. Do you hear an exhaust leak when you accelerate? I appreciate you keeping me posted :)

    • CoastC 2 years ago

      Eddie, Thanks for the reply. Yesterday I pulled the glove box out and checked. The ECU and everything in that area looks really good - no signs of water damage there. I also checked the sunroof drains - everything flows clean through there. I pulled the cowl from the windshield as well as the driver-side fender to check for signs of leakage there, but did not find much of anything. The shop that has replaced windshields for me in the past checked the installation and said it looks good. They were not the ones to install this one as we just bought this car a few months back. They did say that it had been replaced at some point though. It's not a lot of water that leaks in anyway (not like standing water), but enough to be a bother.

      Anyway, all that's a separate issue I guess. I'm stumped on the CEL. I did read somewhere else that it could be a crack in the exhaust manifold. Some also mentioned trying a fuel additive. Again, thanks for the info. If I figure anything out, I'll be sure to report back - always good to share the info.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi CoastC,

      You're very welcome for the information :) The civic has only one bank, and the secondary sensor would be the sensor last in line. The problem with Autozone reading your codes is the code is generic, not a Honda specific code, so at this point I'm guessing, but a secondary sensor is usually the second sensor inline. If you have water on the drivers floor, it won't cause any codes unless it reaches the ECU and shorts or corrodes the terminals, and windshields usually leak because of poor installation. Hope this make sense. If you have more questions, I'll be right here.

    • CoastC 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie, I hope you can help me out here. My son has a 2003 Honda Civic. The CEL came on and we took it to Autozone to do a scan. It reported P0138 "Definition: Secondary HO2512 (heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2) circuit high voltage". I know that the civic has an upstream and downstream sensor. I replaced the downstream (underneath and on the exhaust manifold). I read a previous posting on this thread where you said it was the front sensor (I assume upstream sensor). Did I replace the wrong one. I still get the code. By the way, I also read where you noted that some civics have issues with windshields leaking, etc. and that could cause a problem as well. We have noticed moisture on the floor on the driver's side in the front. I assumed that was a completely separate issue until reading your post. BTW, thanks for all the information - very informative.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Julian, you're welcome :)

      It's not a good idea to take this car on a long trip because of this issue. I recommend having a mechanic who knows how to adjust Honda valves, do a valve adjustment, I'm not positive it will fix your problem, but it's worth a shot. That service at my shop would run $695, but that includes plugs and a top end gasket set (valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube gaskets). I also recommend going to a Honda dealer and having the software updated in your PCM, (service bulletin # 04-042) you may even want to start with this, especially if it's never been updated. Keep me posted on what you do, I'm curious about what's causing this issue, thanks.

    • Julian 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thanks for getting back to me.

      I have 146,000 + miles on the engine. The mechanic changed the spark plugs as he changed the coils. None are older than 3 years and the last one was put in this week. I have never had the valves adjusted.

      Since my last message, on the advice of another mechanic, I changed a "suspect" coil that was a different design than the others. The car seems to run better. The code is P0430 a catalytic converter code for "Bank 2" (the car is a 6 cylinder).

      Right now I'm not noticing any serious performance issues except:

      1. The check engine light is on and not blinking.

      2. When I accelerate (really floor it) the light blinks briefly then quickly returns to being on but not blinking. This was even happening right after we changed the coil and the check engine light was off.

      We wanted to go visit our son for Christmas, a trip from upstate New York to Virginia but are unsure what to do with these lights acting up.

      Thanks

      Julian

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Julian,

      Coils can cause misfire codes, but so can injectors, spark plugs and engine problems like mis adjusted valves, leaking head gaskets and piston rings. Your code was probably a P0420, which is a catalytic converter code. Something is causing the misfire. There is a service bulletin #04-042, it's a software update to the PCM, I'm not sure if it applies to your vehicle, but it will improve the communication from the sensors to the PCM. How many miles are on the engine and how old are your spark plugs? Have you ever had the valves adjusted? Let me know, thanks.

    • Julian 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie

      I've got a 2003 Honda Accord EX. Over the last few years I've had my share of episodes with the check engine light. Mostly it's been on and not blinking. When I would bring it in to my mechanic he would say it was something to do with the 02 sensors, the car is running fine and don't worry about it unless it blinks. When it would blink I would take it in, he would replace a coil and it would be fine for a while. I've changed 6 coils in the last 3 years. After he put the last coil in, while the light was still off I was getting an engine stutter (misfire?) when I accelerated and could even make the light come on if I really gunned it. When the light came back on for good I took it to Advance Auto and got a P0430 code.

      Any thoughts on what you think this problem could be would be greatly appreciated.

      Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Duwayne,

      Not sure what a cf9 Honda is, but most likely it's the main relay. Let me know if this helps.

    • duwayne 2 years ago

      I have a cf9 Honda accord the check light is on sometime the car start sometimes it don't most of the times the check light is off it wont start but when the check light is on it start easy wat you think the pro will be

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Brandon,

      The problem is most likely in the alternator, it's probably the voltage regulator freaking out at that RPM, it could be under charging or over charging. I would have the alternator checked, it may still be under warranty, 12/12? Let me know if this helps, thanks.

    • brandon 2 years ago

      i have a 1996 accord vtec v6 which ive worked on alot but this one has me stumped. ive recently put a new alternator in about a year ago and has worked fine. a week ago i noticed my battery light kickin on around 3000 rpm and if im highway driving keeping it around 3000 rpm my speedo stops working, my lights hardly work, and basically acts like its recieving no power. then i slow down at 2300 rps or lower and everything powers back up. my battery is fine and starts strong everytime. do you have any idea what would cause this charging issue??? please help cant find no info on this

    • brandon 2 years ago

      your posts are very helpful

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      When you say it lost power, what exactly did it do? Was it skipping, bogging, revving but not moving, etc...???

    • M. Wilson 2 years ago

      I am having trouble with my 98 Accord. I was driving and it lost power completely. The check engine light came on, although I was able to drive it back home I'm not sure what the problem may be. Any ideas?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bryan,

      Congratulations on owning your first car :) First thing you need to do is find out what the code is, that will tell you what to check and what is failing in the emissions system. Hope this helps, let me know what the code is, maybe I can help.

    • Bryan 2 years ago

      Hello everyone. So I just got this 02 Honda Accord cope and honestly, I love the car coz it's got a lot of power but for some reason, the check engine light comes on for like 3 days (it's steady) then goes off. I've already changed a tin of things in the car...would like know if there's any other thing I should be looking at. (NB: I'm kinda of a newbie in the "car owning world". This is basically the first car I can call mine)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Joel,

      Most likely you have a shift solenoid problem, it's very common in the Honda Odyssey. You need to go to the Honda dealership or a transmission shop, they can diagnose it and get it done quick if the parts are available. Let me know what you find Joel, thanks.

    • Joel Legaspi 2 years ago

      I have a car trouble. The "D" green light blinking while driving. I have Honda Odyssey 2003. What seems my problem?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Wolman,

      Sorry, I didn't see your post come in. It sounds like a misfire on one or more of your spark plugs, did you have it looked at yet?

      Hi Paul,

      If the oil level is OK, pull out the VTC actuator and check the oil strainer, clean it, and re install it, see if that helps. You may have a timing chain tensioner problem. Let me know what you find, thanks.

    • Paul Jacob 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2006 Honda Civic Si. My battery died about a week ago, and jump starting the car was unsuccessful. The car turned over, the engine started, but died immediately. I removed the battery and trickle charged it all night, but the car still wouldn't start and maintain idle. On plugging in an OBDII Scanner, I received code P1009 - VTC Advance Malfunction. The engine oil appears fine, however. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

    • Wolman 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie

      My wife had a problem in a Honda Civic 2013. the engine light was on and the car started to shake when she was stopping. When she arrived at the college suddenly the electric power steering signal showed up and the engine light is still on. She checked the fuel cap and it is ok. Wha could be the cause of the problem?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Clinsner,

      It sounds like you may have a problem with the ECU/PCM (control unit) I would have the codes checked, if no codes are stored, you may have to replace the control unit.

      Hi Steph,

      You can check to see what the code mean at my website @ http://www.simple-car-answers.com/Car-Trouble-Code... just scroll down and search the codes.

      P0741 is Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Performance or Stuck Off and P0325 is Knock Sensor 1 Circuit Malfunction (Bank I or Single Sensor)

      You have two separate issues here non related. I would have them checked out by a trusted mechanic. Let me know what they say, thanks Steph.

    • stephanie 2 years ago

      Hello I a showing codes p0741 and p0325. I'm not having any problems while driving. Please help, thanks!!!!!

    • clinsner 2 years ago

      my check engine light comes on everyonce in awhile but shuts off when I stop at light. when I park it. it dosnt come back on.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Leon,

      The first thing you need to do is know what the code is, knowing the code will point you in the right direction. I could guess and say it's a coil or something, but it's only a guess, knowing the code is the best place to start. You can buy a cheap code reader at amazon for about $20, all it will do is read the code, but that's half the battle :) Let me know what you decide to do Leon, thanks.

    • leon giron 2 years ago

      1992 honda accord ex. car run exellent sometimes when i start engine chek litht stays on. turn off engine restart the car and light goes off,sometimes the light comes on while driving it seem the car want to stop, what i do is turn off engine,restart the car and the problem is solve, any idea what is causing this problem. thank. by the way this is a 4 cly eng.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Angel,

      I'm not sure of what you're saying because I don't speak Spanish. If you could get someone to translate this for me, that would help me out a great deal. Thanks Angel :)

    • angel 2 years ago

      Hola tengo un accord v6 2001 en México D.F. Me enciende el check engine solo en leves subidas. Apago el carro lo enciendo y se apaga el check engine hasta, la próxima leve subida. ya cambie: sensor oxigeno, bomba gasolina, limpieza a valvulas egr, pcv iac maf, cambie bateria, bujias y sigue asi. ojala me pueda apoyar para saber cual es la falla. muchas gracias

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Pete,

      It's located behind the ashtray :) Let me know how you make out, thanks Pete.

    • peter ngolofwana 2 years ago

      I have a 1997 honda crv,with engine check light on.where is the diagonosis port for this car located.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Betty,

      That's great! I'm so glad it was an easy fix. Thanks for coming back with an update, I really appreciate it :)

    • Betty 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thank you so much for your help. Yes, it was the main relay, a coil was damaged.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Betty,

      Does the car turn over? (crank over)

      If the check engine light is not going off after 5 seconds of turning the key to the rum position, this is what I would do. Replace the main relay, it a very common problem in those vehicles. It's located up under the dash on the drivers side between the steering column and the fuse box, it' a brown relay box with (I think) an 8 pin connector. Let me know if this helps Betty, thanks.

    • Betty 2 years ago

      I have a Honda civic, 1991. After parking my car outside for two weeks the engine light is not turning-off and so I can´t start the car. We checked the codes but the engine light and the ECU were not blinking. We checked the gas cap, plugs, air filter and the car is not wet inside.

      Last year we had the same problem but at the dealer´s garage the engine light switched-off and everything was ok. They checked the ECU but it showed also no code. Since then I parked my car in a garage and it was ok. What can we do?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Annette,

      Thanks for your input, this is why it's best to find a mechanic you can trust, then use them for all your repairs. Some techs don't intend to over charge you, they just don't know the proper procedure to fix a vehicle and end up taking too much time on the diagnosis, so you end up paying for their education.

      Hi Rafael,

      I believe the "A" means it's time for an oil change, and the "6" means it's time to replace the differential fluid, but check your owners manual and let me know, thanks.

    • Rafael 2 years ago

      I have a HONDA PILOT 2007. Please, colud you said me what does means the "A6" light in the Check engine message lights? Thank you

    • annette 2 years ago

      All the lights came on my 2003 Honda accord lx. I took it the a Honda dealership and they wanted all kinds of money before they could fix it. My husband took it to a guy who works on vehicles and they fixed the problem for a hundred bucks after I spent 400.00. It was ablown fuse and the return wire. What they won't do to get your money. They should be ashamed. I will never take it back to them again, I used to take it there all the time. Not anymore. Hope this will help a lot of people.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi bliberty,

      If it's only the canister vent shut valve, it will not affect the vehicle, but having the check engine light on can and will lower your gas mileage. Yes, any mechanic can replace this valve, it's a little time consuming, but easy to change. Let me know if you have any other question, and keep me posted on what you decide to do, thanks.

    • bliberty 2 years ago

      Light came on, took the car to Honda, they said I had the P1457 code & that I need the EVAP canister, fuel vent module & canister shut valve for $587!! After viewing your video, that cost sounds outrageous. Can any mechanic replace those parts? I understand I cannot pass the emisions test, but, I don't need one for another 1 1/2 years. Can anything be damaged if I don't replace it right away?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tony,

      That's great! The valve adjustment would have cost about $4oo parts and labor. It sounds like you found an honest mechanic, now don't loose his/her number, good techs are hard to find, lol. Thanks for coming back with an update, I really appreciate it, that information is priceless to me and the other readers, so thanks again :)

    • Tony 2 years ago

      Eddie thank you for the information. I found out from my mechanic last night that the problem is in the distributor ignition. When he pulled the distributor cap off it had blue acid that corroded the spring. That was leading to a blocked spark, thus causing my hesitation. Instead of buying the ignition coil/module, he recommended I just purchase a new distributor (about $250) and he will install it. He cleaned the spring/cap in the distributor and it drives like a champ. Thank you

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tony,

      CRV's have a problem with tight engine valves, I recommend having the valves adjusted by a Honda mechanic if possible. I would have it done ASAP because it could lead to a burnt valve, and that would cost some big bucks compared to a valve adjustment. Let me know what happens Tony, thanks.

    • Tony 2 years ago

      I have a 2000 honda crv that has been hesitating for about a month. I added fuel injector cleaner and it did not work. Today an amber light that I think is the check engine light on my dashboard came on. When sitting at a light my car idles around 500 rpm and it feels like it is going to stall. When I take off it hesitates constantly. Normally I have to be driving about 20 minutes in the morning before the problem starts. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Efudo,

      The D light flashing is caused by a failure in the transmission, usually from a sensor. The only way to know what's causing it to flash is to have the codes pulled by your mechanic. Let me know if you have more questions Efudo, thanks.

      Hi Brenda,

      The only blue light I know of on the civic dash is the high beam indicator light. Is it some kind of icon or just a blue dot? Where is this located?

      If the check engine light is on, you will need to pull the code for more information.

    • 209Brenda 2 years ago

      just had to buy a new battery for 2011 Honda civic, now the check engine light comes on with a blue dot. Any idea what this means?

    • Efudo 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie

      I have a 1994 Accord EX, made in Japan, I started having d4 blinking and day after motor light went on, car runs smooth, but I wonder what could cause this?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lynno173,

      It sounds like it's just a misfire, if what the mechanic did to fix it solved the problem, you should be all set. How is it driving now?

    • lynn0173 2 years ago

      Hi I have a 2009 Honda Accord and yesterday the emission control check engine light came on and immediately I can feel the engine starting to shake quite severely. On my way to the shop the VSA off light also came on.

      The shop had a look at the car and gave me a couple of codes P300, P303, P306. They also replaced the spark plugs and reset the engine light. However, they're quite unsure if it would resolve the problem. Do you have any recommendations on what need to be done? Thanks!

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Partsguy,

      Yes the disconnected crank sensor was causing a misfire and dumping raw fuel into the exhaust causing the catalytic converter to clog and overheat. You might be OK, just drive it for a few days and see how it runs.Keep me posted, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Libby,

      I have a daughter your age and I wouldn't want her to be in your situation, wish I lived closer, I would help you personally. The check engine light is flashing because you have a misfire of some sort, the code should tell you why and what.

      When the check engine light flashes, it means you're doing damage to the catalytic converter. The distributor is probably your problem, most likely the ignitor or cam/crank sensor inside the distributor is starting to go. If your mechanic removes the distributor cap and finds orange rust dust inside the distributor, the bearing at the base of the distributor might be seizing, so you will probably need to replace the distributor base and also the distributor cap and rotor.

      You need to find the coolant leak, bring it back to the mechanic who put your engine in and have them fix the leak, it couldn't have been that long ago and it shouldn't be leaking, fix it asap or you will ruin the engine again.

      Let me know if you have more questions or if you need more help, I promise I won't take as long to respond ( I worked late last night and didn't have time to answer questions) Keep me posted Libby and keep the baby safe, and BTW, you know more about cars than you think :)

    • LIBBY 2 years ago

      Hello, Im pretty desperate for help at the moment. Im a 19 year old female. (not very much knowledge about cars.) I have a 98 Honda Civic EX. A few weeks ago my car just died while I was driving through town. Would turn over and want to start, but wouldn't what so ever.. Called my mechanic, and he came and towed it and said it was a coil that needed to be replaced. Got that fixed and it ran. Not like it should and the check engine light has been on. But it has still been running. Over the past week, I cannot keep water in my car. The radiator is fine everything is fine, when I found where the water was leaking out, I saw that it was right where the hose connects to the radiator and maybe the silver ring thing that keeps the hose in place needed to be tightened. SO I tightened it, and it didn't help at all, so Ive just been putting water in as I notice it starting to get hot because all of the water has leaked out. I put water in my car this morning because I had a very busy day which would involve me driving my car ALOT more than just any normal day, the car ran great all day (check engine light still on) But on my way home which is about a 30 minute drive into nothing but desert for miles. My car started losing power, had no power what so ever, felt like a misfire to me. (but then again I'm a 19 year old girl, so I had no positive idea what it was.) Then the check engine light that has been constantly on for about 2 months now, started flashing. I Don't know much, but I knew as soon as I saw it that that was telling me to stop driving or I would completely destroy my motor. But being that I was in the middle of the desert, and it was still about 20 minutes till I reached ANY kind of civilization, and no service on my cell at all. I figured being a young girl, with a 3 year old in my car stranded in the middle of the desert, I should attempt push it as far as I felt comfortable with. I made it safe to home, but now I'm absolutely terrified to even try to start my car because I just had to buy a used motor not that long ago because the motor blew. I don't want to get it to a point where I may have to go through that again. So I am scared to do anything to it. From what Ive learned in the past, and also research. it sounds like My CC. Im trying to find someone who has code reader that I can use to see if that will help me figure out whats going on and what I need to do to fix the problem and hopefully not have to go through replacing the motor AGAIN. But as of right now, would you have any Ideas? Advice? Suggestions? or maybe anything you could possibly tell me to help at least make me stop panicking about the whole situation. I need some help ASAP.

      Thank you!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Casey,

      The TCS light is probably coming on because the check engine light is coming on. I would have the code checked, then you'll know what's causing the light to come on. It probably is either your gas cap or the canister vent shut valve. See the video above on the canister vent shut valve for a 99 Accord V6. Let me know what you find or if you have more questions, thanks.

    • Casey 2 years ago

      My 2001 Accord v6's check engine light and TCS light occasionally come on when I coast or brake doing 50+ mph. This only happens occasionally and the lights turn off within a day or two. Inevitably, the lights reppear when braking or coasting at 50+ mph about once or twice a month. What can be causing these lights to appear then turn off on their own?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi NChase,

      No, I was thinking that you may have a few tight valves causing the misfire codes, a valve adjustment is pretty cheap on that vehicle. Misfires can be caused by a lot of things, but you had a ECU failure code, so I can see why you would have replace the ECU.

      I would start by looking very closely at the ECU connectors, make sure there is no water damage or corrosion inside any of the connectors, and make sure all the pins are straight. I cannot emphasize "VERY CLOSELY" enough! It's easy to overlook the obvious. Let me know if you find anything, thanks.

    • nchase 2 years ago

      Engine has 150,000 miles on it. The valves have never been adjusted.

      So then I take it that the ECU failure code is not related to the missfires and there is likely a wiring fault somewhere.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Nchase,

      Have you ever had the valves adjusted? How many miles are on the engine?

    • nchase 2 years ago

      2002 honda civic lx. engine idles rough below 2000 rpms with codes for random missfire and missfires on all 4 cylinders. It also has a code calling the ecu bad (internal failure circuit card a). I replaced the coils and plugs. Also changed the ecu and had it programed by honda dealership. Missfire codes and ecu failure codes are still there with no change in engine performance.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Dpryor, You're welcome, and thanks :)

      The light could be something as simple as a fuel cap not tight, pulling the code will set you free, lol.

    • Dpryor 2 years ago

      Hey! Thanks so much for the help! I got in my car on my way to autozone and the light turned off! Should I be worried? I just came back home and didn't bother going. Thanks again for your timely responses. I am recommending this forum to everyone with a Honda!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      No, it could be anything but nothing you've done, cars are parked on hill all the time. I think you just had an emission part fail, that's all. Once you check the code, it will point you in the right direction.

    • Dpryor 2 years ago

      think its possible from a full tank sitting on a hill like that for 5 mins something might be glitched?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi DPryor,

      No you driving did not screw up the vehicle. Just have the code pulled and see what's causing the check engine light to be on. Once you have an idea, maybe you guys can split the cost of the repair. Let me know what the code is, maybe I can help fix it with minimum cost.

    • DPryor 2 years ago

      Hey! So I just bought a 2007 fit sport yesterday. Manual. My first manual so I wants to test starting it in a hill as I have quite a few on my way to work on Monday. I stalled it and it rolled backwards a bit. When I started te car back up I now have a check engine light on! I'm extremely pissed as this was a private sale with a friend and I'm hoping my stupidity didn't mess something up with the car. Please help!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      HI jsmartt1,

      It sounds like you're hearing coolant moving around inside the heater core. So, first I would check the coolant level, check the reservoir and the radiator when the engine is cold. Let me know what you find

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      Could it be the air mix motor and is the something that could be making it act funny or should i just replace it

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      Its a clicking noice, soinds like boiling water,thats the best i can describe it, its all the time and definately under dash on passenger side. Doesnt change speeds or anything

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Good to know. So does the ticking in the Accord only happen whit the fan on or can you hear the ticking all the time? Do you know if it's under the dash or in the engine compartment? Is it steady or does the tick change speed?

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      Yup it fixed it ,no pulling or bouncing. Blower motor fine, checked it but nothing in it

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jsmartt1,

      So replacing the motor mounts cured the pulling and steering problem? That's odd, but thanks for the update. Did you check the blower motor bearing? Or if there was debris in the fan motor?

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      Eddie,

      Well in the 98 civic we replaced motormounts and that has seemed to fix the issues.

      Still have not figured out noise in 2000 accord

      Thank u for trying to help

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Danalee,

      I would start by having the code pulled from the cars computer too see why the check engine light is on, you maintenance light is red because you need maintenance, or someone forgot to reset it on your last oil change. Let me know if you have more questions :)

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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Maario,

      I have seen a lot of purge control valves failing on Honda CR-V's lately. The valve is located on the intake manifold and it purges fuel vapors from the canister into the intake to be burned. I would start by changing the purge control solenoid first. Let me know if this helps Mario, thanks.

    • Marioharris 2 years ago

      I have a 2009 crv. I got warning signal saying "check fuel cap" after a couple weeks the check engine light came on and I got it scanned. The codes were P145c and p0497: evaporative emission system low purge flow. I changed the fuel cap 4 days ago and the warning are still on. I pulled the battery and the same thing. Should I change the solenoid?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi KC,

      If the catalytic converter is anywhere near the CV boot, they could have damaged it when replacing the cat. The drive belt should have been replaced when the timing belt was replaced, there is no sense removing the belt twice when they already had it off during the timing belt replacement.

      I would have the mechanic who did the timing belt replace the drive belt for free labor, you just pay for the belt. The CV boot is another story, how do you prove the mechanic damaged it while replacing the catalytic converter? You can't, they have to admit it. Keep me posted on what happens KC, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi KC, what are the outside temps like this last trip, the same as the first trip? Temperature has a lot to do with fuel mileage, I have lost 4 mile to the gallon this winter. Let me know the temps, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Don't worry WClark, I'll find you lol. Pull off the distributor cap and look under it, let me know if you have a lot of orange dust (rust) Most likely you need a distributor base, but let me know what you find, thanks.

    • wclark 2 years ago

      I have a Honda Accord 2001... and my check engine light comes on sometimes... and when it does it seems like it hesitates in low gear. or kinda feels like something might be clogging the gas line.. but i have only felt it do it in low gears.. but i always make sure my gas lid is tight and check everything under the hood... the only thing i can find is my antifreeze will be low. it is not leaking so i don't know how it gets so low.. but when i add some the check engine light goes off... and my car never runs hot... so help please... i don't know what is going on with it..

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Arin,

      There are 3 reasons for this code,

      1. low engine oil

      2. low oil pressure

      3. the timing chain tensioner needs to be replace due to age and wear (out of spec).

      If it the tensioner, you will probably need to do a complete timing chain replacement due to wear and age as well. Let me know if you have other questions Arin, and keep me posted on what you have done to fix it, thanks.

    • Arin 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 2007 Honda Accord with just over 200,000 miles on it. One week ago today my check engine light came on. I brought it in to have the code checked. The code that came up was PO341. I had an oil change done that day. The shop cleared the code. I drove about 60 miles Friday night and the check engine light stayed off. I started my car Saturday morning and the light came back on. I called the shop as well as another Honda shop and it was recommended that I do not drive my car as the timing chain may be slipping. I did not drive it until Monday morning when I was bringing it in to the shop to have it looked at. The check engine light was on the entire time I drove my car. I left my car at the shop. 90 minutes later they brought the car into the shop to check out the codes and the check engine light was off. It was off all week. Until this morning. It came on immediately when I started my car. What do you recommend I do next to fix this problem? I do drive a lot and I do not want to be stranded on the side of the road on a cold winter day ( I also do not want to ruin my engine). One thing I should mention is that it has been fairly "nice" here in Minnesota this week until today. Does the temperature have anything to do with this light coming on? Thank you so much for your advice!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi DaddyFreddie,

      If you have the codes checked, it will point you in the right direction if not give you the answer to the problem. The most common problem with those engines is the distributor base starts to seize. I recommend removing the distributor cap and checking for rust dust (orange dust) on the inside. If you find rust dust, you need to replace the distributor base. If you don't find rust dust, check all the spade connections on the ignitor and check to make sure the coil screws that secure the positive and negative wires to the coil are tight. Let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Lena,

      Was it a undercarriage wash as well? You may have damaged an O2 sensor. Do you know any of the codes out of the 13?

    • DaddyFreddie 2 years ago

      Hey Eddie

      I need your help. I have a Honda civic ex 1996 model. recently the check engine light came on and my car sputters, shakes, sometimes whiles accelerating the engine just dies whiles moving. Engine starts as soon as l turn the key either whiles it stalls in traffic and goes off or when I start the engine in the morning or after work. I have changed my injectors, fuel pump, oil, oil filter,just about anything but still to no avail. Please help, I have not been able check the codes because it is very expensive to do that here. A mechanic say it's my control board that needs to be changed. Please help me out

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      You need a distributor base, if you remove the distributor cap, you'll probably see a bunch of rust dust (orange dust) covering everything. Buy a Honda distributor base, plus a cap and rotor. Let me know what you decide to do James, thanks.

    • James 2 years ago

      Hey Eddie,

      It didn't stall when I wiggled the ignition. I took it to Oreilly's to get the check engine light tested and the code they gave me was p1381 which the guy said had something to do with the cam shaft sensor?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi James,

      I think you may have something wrong with either the ignitor ( inside the distributor), the coil, or the distributor cap and rotor. I would have all the ignition parts checked out and let me know what you find.

      One more thing, start the engine and wiggle the ignition key around, some Honda's have a problem with the contacts inside the ignition, if it stalls when you wiggle the key, the problem is obviously in the ignition.

    • James 2 years ago

      My wife said most of the lights went off, but some, like the speedometer stayed on, and the engine died. It started right back up. It is a 4 cylinder and it has a distributor.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi James, when you say the engine just turned off, do you mean all the lights on the dash went out and the engine died or all the lights on the dash stayed on and the engine died? Did it start back up? This is a 4 cylinder right? The engine has a distributor, correct? Let me know James, thanks.

    • James 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      (2001 Honda Accord Vtec) We need your help. 5 months ago, our car started losing power whenever we would hit 3000 rpms. It would sort of kick off intermittently. Then on October 31, an oil seal broke and it dumped all of the oil from engine. We took it to Pep Boys and they recommended replacing the timing belt and the seal. We had just had the timing belt replaced, so they said it would probably be okay and just replaced the seal. When we got it back, it ran fine but it sounded a little whiny. Then two days ago, the check engine light came on and it started doing the intermittent power loss thing at 3000 rpms again. Then tonight, my wife was driving and she said on the freeway the car just turned off. What do you think?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Jsmartt1, yes, I knew you were talking about two different cars :) The ticking noise in the Accord could be some debris in the blower motor fan or the blower motor bearing is on it's way out. Just pull the fan and motor out from the bottom and check for debris.

      The Civic is another issue! A sudden problem like this it the steering is cause by either a bad power steering pump or rack. Is there a way you could take a video of the problem and put it on YouTube so I can see it?, Just a though, let me know, thanks.

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      There are 2 different cars i am asking about in the initial question. The noise is under the dash in my 2000 Accord, the pulling issue is on my 98 Civic, and the pulling doesn't happen constant, it started pulling Thursday night but smoothed out when i slowed down, was fine friday morning but friday afternoon it was pulling vibrating really bad and yanked steering wheel to right when i turned left. I ended up having to drive 5mph home. We cannot drive it to tire shop because if it starts again its not capable of being steered. It not the tierod either. The noise in the Accord only happens when the ac is on also.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Jsmartt1, if the vehicle is not moving, the the noise is not coming from the tires. Can you tell if the noise is coming from under the hood or under the dash?

      Is the inside fan on?

      Give me as much info as possible like where , when, what , how, etc... thanks.

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      The car is on, it makes the noise when movng or not. I will have tires checked and let you know.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jsmartt1, when you hear the ticking noise under the dash, is the vehicle moving? The civic sounds like you have a bad tire due to a pothole, curb, broken belt or bubble in the sidewall. Have the tires checked and let me know what they find, thanks.

    • jsmartt1 profile image

      jsmartt1 2 years ago from Heathrow, Florida

      I just purchased a 2000 Accord and there is a clicking sound coming from under the passenger side dash, any ideas what it could be? Also I own a 98 Civic and it all of a sudden started pulling to the right really bad and feels like it is way out of balance, shakes and pulls at various speeds and when I turn to the left it keeps jerking the steering wheel to the right.... I lov my hondas but am at a loss right now

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Ji, did you pull the code to find out what it is? I would start there, and let me know what you find.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi John,

      You may have damaged the O2 sensor, you're going to have tho pull the code.

      Hi Jon,

      Is the check engine light flashing? It sounds like the catalytic converter is stating to clog or a fuel filter/pump is having a problem. I'm thinking more towards the catalytic converter because of the check engine light. Is there a garage around that can pull the code?

    • Jon 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie. I rented a Budget truck and on the way home from the trip an orange check engine light came on. The truck seemed to be running a little rougher, but we pulled over that night and took a full days break from the trip. The next day we drove it we noticed that it was having difficulty accelerating up incline on the highway and would slow from about 70 to 50 until we reached the top of the incline. We pulled over once again to take a break, and when we got back on the road, a different red check engine light came on and the truck was unable to accelerate over 5-10 mph. No idea how long it will take someone to get out here and help us. Any ideas?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Accord Man, if the light is flashing it means your doing damage to the catalytic converter, so it's not cool to be driving it. The skip could be caused by several different issues, plugs, wires, poor gas or water in the fuel, egr port clogged, injector, etc...

      Have the code checked, it may just be a misfire, but something is causing it. A good mechanic should be able to figure it out quick if it's a plug, wire or injector. Let me know what you find Accord Man, thanks.

    • Accord Man 2 years ago

      Hi Eddie. I just realized that I missed another question. Is it safe to drive to a store to check the codes. while its shaking...Thanks in advance

    • Accord Man 2 years ago

      Hi. Eddie. I have a honda accord 2002 2 door SE. while on my way home check engine lite came on and car started shaking. The weather is really cold out in Chicago. The car was low on gas. I got home and put some gas in. I tried starting its still shaking and the indicator still flashing.. I only put 2 extra galons, should I put more gas. Could it be a bad spark plug? Please advise

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tanya, you need to have someone with a code reader check it, most autoparts stores will check it for free. Let me know what the code is, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tanya, bring it back so they can pull the code from the computer, that will tell why the light is on. The pulling is caused by tires or alignment. Let me know what the code was and maybe I can help you figure it out, thanks.

      Hi Beastly, what do you mean is doesn't start, does it crank ove fast? does it just make a click noise? The check engine light will only come on when the engine is running.

    • Beastly 2 years ago

      Hi, i have a 2006 Honda Civic and its getting very hard to start up the car lately & sometimes i doesn't even bother to start. The checklight has been on ever since. Any ideas what is causing it?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Ok Shams, let me know if you find it, and thanks for the feedback :)

    • Shams 3 years ago

      Eddie--I think I must have been looking at the wrong connectors. Will try again.

    • Shams 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie.

      Eddie--great advice here, thanks! I'm trying to apply the instructions for checking codes that you gave earlier regarding a 1992 Honda. I have a 93 Accord manual transmission. Between the glove compartment and passenger door, I'm finding a set of three connector pairs, all of them blue, with white, black, or red stripes on one of the wires. Which is the correct pair to do the paper clip trick with?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi theophilus archibong,

      The first thing you should do is have the the code pulled from the computer, and stop driving the car until you do. When the check engine light is flashing, its warnig you the catalytic converter is being damaged, probably because your engine has a misfire and is dumping raw fuel into the exhaust, then it gets trapped at the catalytic converter and burns off.

      The problem with this is the catalytic converter will get extremely hot and the honeycomb inside will crack, causing a blockage in the exhaust, in other words, you'll need to replace the catalytic converter $$$.

      Let me know if you have any other questions theophilus archibong, and let me know what the code is, maybe I can point you in the right direction.

    • theophilus archibong 3 years ago

      My check light is flashing, and I drove it for a distance, what should I do or change to help the car from further damage.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Stella, The problem you're having is usually caused by the fast idle valve. Sometimes you can remove the two screws from the top and adjust it from the inside but the most common repair it would be to replace it. Let me know what you find Stella, thanks.

    • stella 3 years ago

      my 96 accord has an irregular idle. after it warms up the idle will go from slow to fast to slow to fast unless i have it in drive or reverse, then it will idle kind of high. but it mostly happens in colder weather. when it's in the 70's or warmer the idle is less high and rarely does the fast-slow thing. is it the fuel injectors or a hose or something??? or is it the air flow thingy? thank you for any help you can give me. i don't trust mechanics cuz(yes it still happens) when they see a woman....

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Marty, there is usually a data link connector on the passengers side of the vehicle behind the glove box. It's a blue 2 pin connector, just uses a paper clip to jump the terminals, then count the blinks on the dash check engine light, let me know what you find Marty, thanks.

    • Marty 3 years ago

      Can you tell me how to check the code on a 91 ex honda accord?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      That makes sense, if the engine is running low on oil, the VTEC solenoid will not function and kick a code. Thanks for getting back to me on this one Veecee, It really helps other readers with similar problems.

    • veecee11 3 years ago

      My new valve cover snapped in the back of the engine and that's where the oil was pouring from. The code was P1259, VTEC system malfunction , the probable cause could be open or short circuit condition, VTEC solenoid valve fault, VTEC pressure switch fault or a blocked oil passage. I got the code checked at Autozone !

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Veecee11, no the smell is the oil burning off the engine and going into the fresh air intan for your climate control system, have the code checked and let me know what you find, thanks.

      Hi Marty, there is usually a data link connector on the passengers side of the vehicle behind the glove box. It's a blue 2 pin connector, just uses a paper clip to jump the terminals, then count the blinks on the dash check engine light, let me know what you find Marty, thanks.

    • Marty 3 years ago

      how can i check the code on a 91 honda accord?

    • veecee11 3 years ago

      I got my valve cover gasket changed a week ago and today my check engine light came on. I have 2 other oil leaks, the rear main seal and the crank seal. There is also a funny exhaust or burning oil smell when the heater is on. Can any of these problems set off my check engine light?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Big Marty, you need to have the code checked, it's the key to what's wrong. Once you find out what the code is, most likely it will lead you to a solution. Let me know what code it is, and I can point you in the right direction, thanks Marty.

    • big marty 3 years ago

      i have a 91 ex honda accord and the cel comes on after about a min when i drive, also it's starts out driving slow when it takes off so can you tell me what you think.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Ibrahim, do you know what the code is in the computer, if not, you will need to have someone with a code reader pull the code. Once you have the code, let me know what it is and then maybe I can point you in the right direction, thanks Ibrahim.

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      Ibrahim Moses 3 years ago from Abuja, Nigeria

      i have a honda city 2006 model the check light is constantly online and it jacks upon movement as if its gear problem pls advice on what to do cos most mechanics still cant detect the problem. thank u

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Nikhil, that's great, you should be all set for a while, thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it :)

      Hi Surara, I pretty sure the light is suppose to come on when you turn the key to II because the TCM is doing a bulb check, if the light were to stay on, then you would have a problem. thanks for getting back to me Sugara :)

      Hi Tom, I didn't approve your comment because we are not suppose to put links in the comment box, but that looks like a good meter. I have an outline above the comments of what to look for when buying a code reader and the meter you are looking at falls within the guidelines, the INNOVA 3040 is a good meter as well.

    • sugara 3 years ago

      Thx Eddie. i did not go to mechanic because check engine light switch off itself and D4 light not flashing any more. but when i push the key to II ,D4 came light on and then off again. then when i start a car everything was fine. just D4 on when i push key to II then off what do you recon?

    • Nikhil Rao 3 years ago

      Thx Eddie.. Got the transmission fluid changed and the code reset.. Transmission feels smooth again.. Hope this the end of all problems.. Thx for your advice again

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sugara, The only way to pull the code is to have a code reader or have a mechanic pull it. Let me know if I can answer any other questions for you Sugara.

    • sugara 3 years ago

      hi there. i have honda civic 2006 Australian model. only 80000 km on it last my engine light on whit D light as a well. what can i do? i tightened my fuel cup and disconnect my battery as well. engine sound fine also no problem to drive. how do pull that code out? please tell me what can i do.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Nikhil,

      If you transmission fluid was low, it means you have a leak somewhere. The check engine light came on because of your D light flashing, so the code needs to be erased in the ECU and TCU (both computers).

      One more thing, if the mechanic did not use Honda genuine transmission fluid, I highly recommend having your transmission fluid changed with Honda fluid because your shift quality will be compromised. Let me know if you have any other questions Nikhil, thanks.

    • Nikhil Rao 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie - I have the 2000 Honda Accord V6. This week the D4 light started blinking and the CEL ligh came on. I took the car over to Autozone to check for the code. It was P0780.. The autozone guys showed me that it calls for Transmission fluid. and yes the fluid levels were low. So we poured in 1/2 a can. After this the D4 blinking went away. However the CEL is still on and I have started to get worried now. Could you please advice

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Brent, it could be the reason your check engine light is on, but I don't think that is why the engine is stalling. Drive it for a few days and let me know if it's still stalling, thanks.

    • brentscal03 3 years ago

      well i got the code today,it was P1009,and while I was pulling into auto zone my oil light started flashing,the guy at auto zone said the engine light was coming on because my oil was really low and that was why my car was dying as well,is this correct?

    • brentscal03 3 years ago

      thank you eddie,ill update you later today

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Brent, the first step to fixing your problem is to find out what the code is, it could point you to the problem, it might not have anything to do with the problem, but without knowing the code, we're just guessing. Let me know if you figure out what the code is, and then we can take it a step further, thanks Brent.

    • brentscal03 3 years ago

      i have the 2004 honda accord,( my user name was brent,sorry I changed it)

      also I took my gas cap off and retightened it and my engine light went off the next day but a week later its back on and my car is dying when coming to stop lights

    • brent 3 years ago

      I have a 2004 Honda accord and my engine light is on and my motor is dying when my car is idling but fine when im driving,or will die when I come to a stop light,please help,thanks

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Roman, thank you very much, your feedback is greatly appreciated, It's people like you, who make what I do, worth every minute :)

    • Roman 3 years ago

      It's rare to find a web site and author that provides clearly written common sense troubleshooting tips. I have learned a great deal from reading these posts. Well done!

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Good, nice work Bryn. Filters are important, but you can hold off for a few weeks, let's just make sure the plugs and coil fix the immediate problem. Keep me posted Bryn, and thanks, I really appreciate all the feedback.

    • Bryn 3 years ago

      Thank you. They said about $400 fix and then wanted to an extra $400 for some filters but said that wasn't an immediate need so I think we'll hold off till next month.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Bryn, Good for you, make them work for their money :)

      Yup, sounds about right. If the engine has a misfire,(no spark) it means your engine can't burn the raw fuel in the cylinder, therefore it's going straight to the catalytic converter and burning up in the cat, causing damage.

      Let me know how you make out with this problem Bryn, and if you have more concerns, I'll be right here.

    • Bryn 3 years ago

      We made them take it out for a longer drive and they got it to do it. They said the engine is misfiring and it needs new spark plugs and an ignition coil. Sound right?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      @ Misty, your car does not have a MAF sensor, you have a MAP which does the same thing. You need to check the transmission fluid level. Shut the engine off and pull the transmission dipstick, if it low, that's why your transmission is not going into gear. Start there and let me know what you find, thanks Misty.

      @ Bryn, if the check engine light is flashing, it usually means the cat is being damaged and you should shut your engine off. I've looked at all the service bulletins for this vehicle and have not found anything. How is the engine running when the light is flashing? Let me know , thanks.

    • Bryn 3 years ago

      We have a 2007 Honda Fit Sport (automatic) and it has 105K miles. It has never really had any big problems but for about a year it's been intermittently sputtering/jerking/hiccuping when we are driving. It happens at varying speeds and even used to happen at red lights. Now I mostly notice is on the highway going 45mph-55mph. We've taken it in and they can never figure out the problem. Today for the first time the check engine light came on and was flashing then goes off then comes on again and flashes more. We immediately took it to the Honda dealership and they couldn't check it for a couple hours and when they did they the light wouldn't come on and they took it out for a drive and it wouldn't do it again and when they ran their diagnostics there were no codes coming up. They are charging us $160 for not solving the problem and now we just take it home and wait for it to happen again?? We have to drive 13 miles to get to a town with any sort of auto help so its a scary drive to constantly be making while worrying that the car will die. Any ideas??

    • Misty S. 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie. Thanks for your quick response. I took the car to Auto zone and they checked the codes. The code they said that had the problem was OEM P1171. The definition they gave me was that the fuel system was leaning during acceleration because:

      1. Plugged fuel filter or low fuel pressure

      2. MAF sensor concern

      The car won't even go in reverse now, this started yesterday! HELP! Can you explain what could be going on please? Auto Zone was not that much help in explaining. Thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      @ Misty, Hi Misty, the transmission light is flashing because you have a code in the transmission control unit, it's probably caused by whatever is causing the car to buck. You need to find out what both codes are in the ECU and the TCM, then you can figure out a plan to fix it, but without knowing the codes, it's a guessing game. Let me know if you have more questions or concerns, thanks Misty.

      @ Mike, does the spark jump about 2'' because the most common cause of that engine stalling on the highway is the ignitor, it could still have spark, but it may be too weak. Also make sure your fuel pump is not failing while on the highway. Where did you check fuel pressure? At the engine or the pump? Let me know Mike.

      @ Deejay, welcome back :) Two things to check, make sure the motor mount that you disconnected near the timing belt is not hitting the body. If that's OK, your balance shaft is off by a revolution or 2, it real easy to mess that up, and it causes a massive vibration at idle because the engine is no longer balanced. I'll see if I can dig up some info and send it to your email :)

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      post cont/ no power loss, but the whole car vibrates right back to the muffler when at idle. do you think we disrupted the motor mounts since they are very old...I can replace them all for 90 bucks. we had to take off the arm on the timing side to take off the covers and we held the motor up with a flat board and a jack. until now it never vibrated...I cant believe we did anything wrong with the belts cause it doesn't shake at all when you are driving it..just when you are sitting still or parked. it is very annoying but I don't want to break something so we need to figure out what we did wrong and fix it. hubby is going to try to take off that engine braket that goes to the driver side mount and loosen it up. he might have over torqued it. any suggestions would be great cause you are the expert. thanx again. you have always been a great help and now that I work in the auto industry I pass on what I learn from you to my customers who also drive Hondas.!!

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      Eddie, I am still following your page here. let me tell you where we are at with our little Honda now. 98 Honda accord, 2.3l vtec. please email me again so we can talk..i lost your number. deejay9699@gmail.com well this is what we did...this weekend we replaced the timing belts, tensioners, water pump, valve cover gaskets, and thermostat...didn't have issues just needed to be done. we kept everything at TDC and lined up like we should and turned over the engine by hand after installing the belts to make sure nothing would bind. car runs and starts like a dream but we have one problem...vibrating idle when sitting still...no vibration or rough running at all when driving. no loss of power. ca

    • Misty S. 3 years ago

      Hi there. Just this morning on my way to drop off my child at school, my D4 light was flashing in my automatic 01' Honda Accord. The check engine light has been on since we bought it used back in Feb. of this year. However, it is not blinking. It just stays on. We have had routine maintenance done to it, but not for a few months. There are not any major problems. So what does it mean when the D4 light is blinking and the car jerks? Thanks.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kevin,

      I would have to say you don't really have a problem except the temperature where you live is extreme, lol. Where do you live??? With the air being that cold, it has a real hard time mixing with fuel without freezing while traveling down the intake tube, it would be worth the money to install a block heater. But in my opinion, I really don't have an issue, but let me know if you think there is a problem besides the extreme cold air, thanks Kev.

    • kevin92honda 3 years ago

      Hello Eddie

      This is what I ran into this morning . It was -5 temperature in the town I live in so I started my car it was a little rough, it was running for about 5 -6 secs and it shut down. I ran it again and it was fine. It is 1992 accord EX .

      Thank you.

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Sounds good Matty, I know it will be worth the trip :)

    • mattytunks 3 years ago

      thanks eddie.

      that was my suspicion. i will keep you posted on wht the dealer says.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Matty,

      The 2000 Accord v6 had and EGR update because the EGR port in the plenum chamber becomes clogged with carbon, so the mechanic would remove the plenum chamber and drill out the EGR port and install a stainless steel tube to prevent it from happening in the future. I believe your mechanic is not being honest with you, it very rare you have this many problems. In my opinion, if he found a problem with the wire, he caused it, if he found a pinched or broken vacuum tube, he pinched it or left if off while working on your vehicle. I would go to a Honda dealer and have them look your car over, it may be a bit more expensive, but you'll have a factory trained mechanic working on your car. Let me know if you have more questions or concerns Matty, and let me know what you decide to do.

    • mattytunks 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      I have a 2000 honda accord v6 ex. I have had the car since 2008. I keep up on the maintenance and make sure to bring it in when any problem arises. it runs great.

      About a month ago i got the check engine light (not the first time) i bring it in and the mechanic says the code is for the egr valve. I had replaced the egr valve about 13 months beforehand. I asked why it would go so quick and the mechanic said he had no idea. So i got the egr replaced again. the next week the check engine light goes on again. i bring it back and the mechanic says its the egr again but it is a wire that needs to be fixed. He says it is his fault and he will do it free of charge. i wait for my car and the mechanic says he can't start it. I was confused since it was able to start when i brought it in. after a week he says the computer went because of a short. He wouldn't take responsibility for anything and i had to pay for everything (which is fine).

      Since then I have had the engine light go on 3 times in the last 2 weeks. the first time he said it was the transmission and he reset the computer. it does feel better now. the second time (today) he said it was the vacuum hose and he fixed that for $20. it has since come back on again (same day). what is going on with my car? I dont want to keep going to the mechanic. its is becoming too often. Please help with any advice. My car doesn't even drive badly but i dont want to mess it up by driving with something wrong with it.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Kevin,

      I think you may have 2 separate problems. If you want to check the code, look up under the dash on the passengers side near the glove box and locate the 2 pin blue connector, this is the DLC. Using a paper clip, jump the 2 pins and watch the check engine light on the dash, it should start blinking. Count the blinks, there may be long and short blinks. 1 long blink stands for 10 and 1 short blink stands for 1, so if you have 1 long blink and 5 short blinks, the code would be 15. Then there will be a pause and it will repeat the code 2 more times. So that's how you check the codes, let me know how you make out.

      If the engine is running rough on start up and sputtering, try pulling off the distributor cap and looking inside for rust dust (orange dust covering everything) if there is no rust dust, check all your wire connections inside the distributor carefully. Check that all the spade connectors on the ignitor are tight and also check the screws on the coil wires, make sure all the connections are tight. If everything looks good, it may be time to bring it to a mechanic.

    • kevin92honda 3 years ago

      I did the wiggling and it is fine.Now this is puzzling, even with the engine check light off I`m having a hard time starting it .Could it be the ECU, Main relay or a fuse somewhere is blown. I `m trying to figure it before I send it to the expensive mechanic even do I can fix cars. How do I find this codes and what could you suggest.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Kevin, First I would check the ECU for codes, if there are no codes, you may have a problem with the ECU. When the check engine light comes on when you put the key in the run position, the ECU is only doing a bulb check, so why it's staying on only sometimes is very puzzling.

      I know the 92's had an ignition problem, you would start the engine, and as soon as you released the key to the run position, the engine would stall, it might be something else to look at. When the engine is running, try wiggling the ignition key and see if it stalls out. Let me know if this helps.

    • kevin92honda 3 years ago

      Hello Eddie.

      Thank you for replying back I really appreciate it. Everything you describe is accurate and I have tried it and you are correct..

      1) like you describe I should hear a click, the engine light goes off and the hum should stop which it does Except the engine check light stays ON.

      2) When the engine check light is on and I start the car either it starts rough or the engine shut off. When I turn it back to the run position again the engine light goes off and it starts fine.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kevin, the most common starting problem with a 92 honda is the main relay. under normal operation, you would turn your key to the run position, (not start) the check engine light will come on and you will hear a hum from the fuel pump for about 2-3 seconds, you will then hear a click, the engine light will go off and the hum will stop. This is you main relay working. When your engine doesn't start, check to see if this is happening. If you do not hear the hum of the fuel pump or the click, the main relay is not working properly. Let me know if this helps Kevin, thanks.

    • kevinhonda92 3 years ago

      for some reason the engine check light on my Honda 92 stays on in the morning when I turn the key to ON. When the engine check light is on it is very difficult for me to start the engine. Sometimes with the light on it will start and then shut down .

      Sometimes when the engine check light is on when I start the engine it stays on. Then later when I start the engine again it starts fine without the light on.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Absolutely Polly, let me know what happens, and I 'll be here if you have more questins or concerns :) FYI, a remanufactured transmission from Honda usually cost about $2500 - $3000 installed.

    • Polly 3 years ago

      Thanks for the heads-up on the 700 codes relating to transmission. Shoot. Now I have to decide whether the car is worth continuing pouring money into or starting over with another used car. Can't afford new. May take it to a tranny specialist or my regular mechanic (they're a really a reputable and proficient outfit). Will ponder on it further after I get more info from tranny shop or mechanic. Thanks again, Polly...I'll keep you posted if you'd like

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Polly,

      That code is a generic code, but any code in the 700's is caused by the transmission, this is probably where the lurch is coming from. You have two options, bring it to a Honda dealership, or a transmission specialist, I would not trust Pepboys for your transmission problems. Let me know if this helps Polly.

    • Polly 3 years ago

      My engine light just came on in my 1998 Honda Accord, V-6, 163K miles. Took it to Pep Boys and got the code for it: P0725 Engine Speed Sensor. They wanted $90 to further investigate exactly what the problem was, but I didn't go for it. I want to do more research first.

      What do you know about this code: P0725??

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Polly,

      The first thing to do is to have the code pulled for the check engine light, this will point you in the right direction on what's happening. There are a number of things that would result in your engine light coming on, it could be the trans, emissions, or engine sensors.

      Now that I think of it, is your engine running ok? Is it idling ok? Is it bucking at steady throttle? Because if your tach is jumping, you may have a problem with your distributor or ignitor unit, it not common on the V6, but being that old, it is possible. Have the code checked first and let me know what it is, thanks Polly.

    • Polly 3 years ago

      I dont' think it lurch's when the gears are shifting, but now that you mention it, it could be happening that way. I have the original transmission so I really try to baby my car going up inclines and such. My tach has been irratic for months now---all over the dial moving quickly and sporatically. But the gas pedal is definitely NOT sticking. Do you think it could be a problem with my transmission? I was thinking either tranny or fuel system. Would the tranny cause the engine light to come on?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Polly,

      When does it lurch, between shifts? Or do you think your gas pedal is sticking?

    • Polly 3 years ago

      My 1996 Honda Accord EX V-6, 163,000 miles lurches when Im driving. I tried putting in Injector Cleaning Fluid but that didn't stop it. Now the Check Engine Light is on and my car is still lurching when I drive it. What could it be? I tried the gas cap trick but that didn't change anything.

      Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi CraftytotheCore,

      That was pure coincidence, an oil change would have nothing to do with the check engine light. Let me know if you have any questions about what the mechanic says, sometimes I can clear up the confusion :)

    • CraftytotheCore profile image

      CraftytotheCore 3 years ago

      This is very helpful. We have a Honda and the check engine light came up prior to the last oil change. We had the oil change, and the light was still on. It's due for another oil change so we are going to find out why the light is on. In the past, it has come on before an oil change but then goes off afterward. I'm hoping it's an easy fix.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Nicole,

      The P0420 is the Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold. I have never heard of the P0430, it may be just a false code, but the P1259 is the V-TEC oil pressure switch. Sometimes when the engine is low on oil, this DTC will come up, or you may have a problem with the switch. I would check your oil level first, if it's ok, then have the V-TEC oil pressure switch checked.

      If your V-TEC switch is not operating properly, the engine is not running efficiently and it could cause the P0420 code as well, but with that kind of mileage, the catalytic converter could have an issue, but lets hope not :)

      Let me know what you find Nicole or if you have more questions. The feedback on this question would really help out other readers, plus I'm very curious, thanks.

    • Nicole 3 years ago

      This site has been so helpful.

      We bought a 2002 Honda Accord EX for our daughter. Has 184,000 miles. The check enginf light came on. Had it checked at Auto Zone. Codes

      P0420, P0430, P1259 showed up. From my research, am I correct in assuming we need a new catalytic converter? would this be all? I notice it has a new 02 sensor. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank-you, Nicole

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Angela,

      Your battery is dead, I would either have it tested or just replace it, let me know if you have more questions, and send me some feedback on the repair, thanks.

    • Angela 3 years ago

      I have a Honda civic 2003 I got her in 2010 she was running real nice till 2012 and the check engine light came on and would go off I put a new gas cap that worked for a while light went on and off after a few days sometimes every other stop light. Now my car is dead with out a jump and makes a clicking sound the lights on my dash board flash with the clicking they think its the battery but nothing was turned on and the maintenance light is flashing longer then usual but does go off.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Lisa,

      The check engine light and D light are connected, you have a transmission code and now it set the check engine light. The maintenance light is one because of your mileage. I would just bring it in and have the codes checked, it may be something simple, but you won't know until you know what the codes are. Let me know what you find out, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here :)

    • Lisa 3 years ago

      Bought a used 2006 Pilot with 85,000 miles. For the past three Friday mornings (yes!) the D gearshift light has started blinking after about 20 minutes driving. Its off when I start the car back up in the afternoon. This afternoon I start the car and the maintenance light and check engine lights are on. Car needs an oil change. Any advice?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Alotizzip,

      If the check engine light went off after a few local trips, it's possible your gas cap is loose, make sure you give it three clicks after filling up. I can't be positive that your 14 hour trip will be OK, but if the light is not flashing and the engine seems to be running OK, it's probably an evap code, which should not leave you stranded. I would check the gas cap and if you can find an auto parts store like AutoZone, Advance Auto, or Pepboys with a shop, sometimes they will check the code for free. I hope this helps Alotizzip, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here. Let me know what happens and be safe.

    • Alotizzip 3 years ago

      Quick question. Read your article. Very helpful. Drove from Texas to Santa Fe last Thurs, and check engine light came on two hours outside Santa Fe. Had the oil changed and checked for long trip at the local Honda dealership the day before. Light went off after a couple of local trips. Last night, it came back on again just before we got back to our hotel. Driving back to Texas tomorrow. We are fairly remote right now, an no where to have codes checked. Car seems to be running fine. Is the car ok to drive home, and have checked when there (14 hour drive)?

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks you KarenB for the feedback, I appreciate it very much :)

    • KarenB 3 years ago

      Thank you very much, Eddie. This is very useful information !

      Karen

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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      OK Heidi,

      I'm just curious to know if the PCM just needs to be updated to stop the misfire codes. Your second opinion should tell you what the code are, so if you could let me know what they say, that would be awesome, thanks :)

    • Heidi 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thank you s much for the quick response! I am going to get a second opinion tomorrow and will let you know what they say. :)

      Heidi

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Heidi,

      I don't think you need a valve adjustmet, misfire codes can be caused by a lot of things, but I doubt you need a valve adjustment. Sound to me like you have a leak in the evap system, gas tank side. I recommend getting a second opinion on the check engine light. Sometimes just updating the PCM at the Honda dealer can stop the misfire codes from popping up. Let me know if you have more concerns, and if you have a secoond opinion, let me know what they say, thanks :)

    • Heidi 3 years ago

      Hi! I have a quick question. My check engine light came on and my mechanic ran the codes and said there were 7 misfire codes and it needed a valve overhaul. He reset it all and the light came back on about a month later. It then went off after I got a full tank of gas. It came back on a week ago and now went off after a couple of days. The car is 2007 Pilot with 90,000 miles and drives perfectly. It is necessary to get the job done now? If it will harm the car I can do it now, but otherwise I would rather wait because of the$500 bill! :) Thank you!!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Bobby, that's great news! I have never had a main relay stall a car, so this is great information :) Thanks for the feedback and your time, a lot of people fix the problem, but never follow up with me , so thanks ;)

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie - There have been no more problems with the accord. I think it just might be fixed. Thanks so much for your help.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bobby,

      I hope it the main relay, chasing a problem like his without testing, is like a crap shoot. Let me know if it fixes it. Has your vehicle had the ignition recall done? I believe 91 Accords had a recall on the ignition switch (electrical portion) they would get hot, lose contact and stall the engine, just one more thing to look into. A quick check is to wiggle the key around in the ignition while it's running, sometimes it will stall the engine.

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      Hey Eddie - I checked all of the loose connections that you recommended. They were all tight. I went ahead and changed the distributor cap and rotor. (I had just changed the plugs and wires last week). Today it was totally acting like the Main Relay so I took off the one that I had replace last month, exchanged it for a new one and so far so good.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks Bobby :)

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      I will check for these loose connections and let you know.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks Bobby, it's a bit difficult trying to diagnose every problem without even seeing the vehicle, but it's worth the effort :)

      Your problem could be a couple of different things, but because you get a code 1, I'm thinking your O2 sensor is flat lined. Here are a few other things to check, just for shits and giggles :)

      1. Check the connector at the main relay, make sure the plug is snapped into the relay.

      2. Check the coil pos and neg wires for a good tight connection, if it's a plug style, make sure it's snapped in completely.

      3. Check the igniter wires, sometimes the spade connectors spread and make a poor connection.

      4. Check the ground wire going to the valve cover stud and the ground wire bolted to the transmission, make sure these are both tight and not missing.

      These are all loose connections I'm talking about as if you didn't notice, lol, but it seems like something is losing contact, and I have seen all of these issues cause the problem your having, so it's basically just for piece of mind. Let me know if you find something loose, I would hate to have you replace the O2 sensor only to find out it was a loose connection. Thanks again Bobby.

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      Eddie - It has a 4 wire O2 sensor. The only problem with having someone with a scan tool monitor it, is that it probably won't do it when they are scanning it. In about 4 hours of driving today, it only did it once then the light went right back off and it ran fine. It is my son's girlfriend's car and I just hate for her to get stranded somewhere. I will probably just go ahead and replace it.

      By The Way - This is a great thing that you are doing here. I have learned a lot from your answers to people's posts.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      That's a tough one Bobby, the best advice I can give you is to have someone with a scan tool monitor the O2 sensor and see if it drops off, or if it's not working at all when the check engine light is on. Does the vehicle have a 2 wire or 4 wire O2 sensor? If it's a two wire, you can test the O2 sensor yourself with a voltage meter. Let me know your thought on testing the O2 sensor yourself.

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      Eddie - The O2 sensor is not directly under the oil filter as every diagram on the interweb shows. It is in the exhaust manifold and goes through the heat shield. You have to take the heat shield off to service it. After I retrieved the codes I reset the ECU by pulling fuse #24 and replacing after 10 seconds. I checked to make sure that it cleared code one. I drove it all day today and it stalled only once. The check engine light came on right before it stalled. I checked the codes after that and no codes were stored. Do you think it still might be the O2 sensor?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Bobby,

      Code one is the O2 sensor, sometimes while changing the oil filter, oil will spill on the O2 sensor and clog the sensor, or the sensor has just failed because of age. I would start by having the O2 sensor diagnosed, make sure it operating properly, if not, replace it. Most likely it has failed and is sending the wrong information to the ECU causing the engine to stall.

      Let me know if this helps, and when you get a diagnosis, could you come back here and let me know what you found? I would really appreciate it, and if you have other questions, I'll be right here :)

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      I checked the codes and the best I can tell it is giving a code of 1. (One short blink then 2 second pause over and over). Any ideas?

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      OK Eddie,

      Its not acting exactly like it did before I replaced the main relay. When I cycle the key to the on p0sition (without starting it) I can hear the fuel pump run and the check engine light comes on for about three seconds. Most of the time I can then continue turning the key and it will start and run just fine. Sometimes though the check engine light will come back on and it will not start. A few other times, after it has started the check engine light comes back on and it dies.

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      It turns out that my son was pulling the wrong fuse. It was just a coincidence that it started after he pulled the wrong fuse. I replaced the main relay about a month ago. It is acting just like it did before i replaced it. Could the main relay be bad out of the box or went bad that quickly?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Bobby,

      That's strange! I would check the main relay first.

      Question, When the vehicle does not start, and you first cycle the key to the on position (without starting the engine) you should hear the fuel pump run for about 3 seconds, at the same time, the check engine light does a bulb check by turning on the check engine light for 3 seconds, like the fuel pump. Check to see if this is happening, if not, it's your main relay, if everything is working as it should, I'm not sure why you have this problem, I have never encountered a problem like this. Let me know if this is your problem or not, if not, maybe we can did a little deeper and figure it out.

    • Bobbykeeton 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have a 1991 honda accord. I have to reset the ECU (Pull the ecu fuse for 10 seconds) or it wont start. Does that mean that the ECU is bad?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey that's great Masha, it definitely make you wonder if people are being honest when something like that happens, that's why it's always nice to get a second opinion :) If you're on facebook , and you would like to share my articles with friends, I wouldn't mind a bit :) Take care for now Masha, and if you ever need any advice, you know where to fine me.

    • Masha 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thanks for the reply! It was a coincidence indeed, although a weird one . They were kind enough to replace the sensor and showed me the old one, totally worn out. Now the dashboard's cleared and we're ready to ride

      worry free!

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      just to elaborate now that I am not typing poorly on my cell phone...THe car starts up fine, gets to about 1000RPM and then shuts off immeidatley over and over again but ONLY when it is HOT outside. Even after I drive the car for a while, if the temperature is not over 90 outside it is fine, or if the sun is gone down it is fine. If you get it running during the day you cannot shut it off because if you do it will take forever for it to stay running again and then it is sure to die on the road with no warning. you will be driving along and look down and everything will be at 0. sometimes you don't loose steering control and other times you do. it is so hard to figure out what is going on. I cannot afford to take it to a HONDA dealer because we have no money for a repair bill plus the parts. the car was having sputtering and bucking and jumping issues when you were driving over 2000RPM until we replaced the distributor. since then it has not done that at all..but dies at ramdon times and will turn over and fire up but immediately shuts off in very hot weather. if there is any way you can help us troublshoot this without me having to buy new parts for things we have already fixed please let me know. my email is deejay9699@gmail.com and if you can help us out in real time I can give my texting number. please anything you an do would be great. we have three kids and my husband works out of town and I am tired of driving his huge 3500 Ram around with the kids. I need my car back so bad...I miss my car...I LOVE my CAR.

      even tho it has been a headache so far I wouldn't trade it for the world. someone out there has to know how to fix it

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      We don't have a honda cap and rotor. The parts we used to fix the distribution igor were donated by the church because we couldn't afford to buy the parts. How much are the honda parts and if that doesn't solve it what else should I replace. Why would the cap and rotor work when it is cool outside butnit in the heat

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      @ Masha, It's possible its coincidence, Have them change the O2 sensor and see if the light comes back on. If they claim it's something else after the O2 sensor, you know they messed up. Let me know what happens Masha, thanks.

      @ Hondagirl, A main relay will usually have a no start problem, but I have never seen it stall an engine. Most likely you have an issue with your ignitor, I have changed literally 100's of them on that year Accord. I would also make sure you have a Honda cap and rotor, we used to see a lot of problems with aftermarket ignition parts. Let me know if this helps Hondagirl.

      @Newome, you can have any pepboys, autozone, or any other garage pull the code, all you need is a code reader. The code needs to e cleared with a code reader before it will go out usually. Let me know what happens Newome.

    • newome 3 years ago

      Thank-you so much for getting back to me. My car was very low on oil, I have added 2l and I'am taking it in today for an oil change. The light is still on also. I'am not sure what the code check is?? or how I would find that information out.

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      I drove my car today and even after changing the ecu as told my car still dies in traffic and will stall out when started after driving or id it is hot outside. It takes more than twenty tries to get it to stay running and if u turn it off you can't get it to run again till the sun goes down. Help. Is this the main relay or the ignition

    • Masha 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      Thanks for the article. It's very helpful and resourceful.

      I have a Honda Civic' 02, which runs OK and all the maintenance and oil changes are done on time. I recently got a recall notice that the front passenger's airbag inflator needs to be replaced and took the car to my local dealer. Right after the service the yellow check engine light came up (not flashing). At the dealership they told me the problem is with the oxygen sensor, P 0131, that it wears out at 100k-150k (there's 103k miles on my car) and that this is a sheer coincidence that it happened right after the service. They assured that replacing the airbag inflator has nothing to do with the area where the sensor is located. I am wondering if there might be a correlation between the service and the light coming out or they're just covering their backs? Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Newtome,

      Yes, low oil could cause the check engine light to come on if it's a V-TEC engine. The spool valve will not function properly if the engine is low on oil, but I would have the code checked just in case it something else. Let me know what happens Newtome, I'm kinda curious, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi HondaGirl, and welcome back :)

      As you can read for the comment above, a P1456 is usually a gas cap code, it's usually caused by not tightening the cap three clicks at the end, a leaking gas cap, or if you run your vehicle while you're fueling it, these things can also cause a P1456 code. I'm glad you're following this Hub, and your feedback is priceless, thanks :) Don't hesitate to ask more questions if you got em.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jhay,

      P1456 is the gas cap code, so I believe you're all set, but if you have any other questions, you know where to find me :)

    • newtome 3 years ago

      Hi I just bought a 2000 Honda civic. the check engine light has come on. its not blinking. I was wondering if its low on oil would that make the light come on?

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      I still enjoy reading these posts and wanted to update you on my situation. We did have to replace the distributor and that solved the jumping and running rough problem...but it still will shut off in traffic and when it is very hot outside would not fire up at all. most times you just give up and wait till it is dark. my friends said it was just a nocturnal car. we had the codes read again and it was indeed the computer...read out a p1607 (his code reader put out ECM/PCM internal circuit failure ) and when I looed that up it was the ECU. so I bought another one since I returned the last one...and after spending an extra 50 bucks got the new used computer. had a locksmith program it to my existing key this past Saturday for another 50 bucks and it runs so much better now. we still had a few times where it stalled out on the first crank but after that it starts and stays running. we have put a fuel cleaner thru it again and drove it 200 miles and now it seems to start every time with no stalls. it also had a second code, p1456, which I am not sure what it is...the guys computer said it was an EVAP Emmision Control System Leak, Fuel Tank. I can smell gas vapors once in a while but we cant find anything leaking. slowly getting done with all the repairs and so far the engine light has not come back on. car seems to really have some more pep now that there is a new ECU in it and I don't have to worry about it not starting when I go somewhere. can you tell me what the other code is and if it comes back on I will know what to fix. all I have left to do is to replace the timing belt and water pump and a leaky valve cover gasket and getting a resonator and a cold air intake and then it will be time to start working on the paint job. I see I am not the only one with a p1456 code. thanx again for being so informative.

    • Jhay 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie

      Well, it was just the fuel tank lid. After about 2 driving cycles, the Engine light turned off. And the code that Auto Zone provided me with is P1456. Not too sure which part is associated with this code

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Thanks FlourishAnyway, I really appreciate the feedback :)

    • FlourishAnyway profile image

      FlourishAnyway 3 years ago from USA

      Great problem-solving information for Honda owners. Wow, this is like having an automotive consultant right there with you before you go spend a bunch of money at the shop. Voted up and more.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jhay,

      Yes, that's correct on the driving cycles, let me know if you need any other help, and thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it very much :) Take care for now Jhay.

      Was one of the codes a P1457? If so, you will probably need to replace the canister vent shut valve and possibly the canister if the screws cannot be removed. Let me know Jhay, thanks.

    • Jhay 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have literally just spent about an hour reading your hug and scrolling through comments. This hub is extremely resourceful :thumb up:

      My problem is I have a 2000 Honda Accord SE 4cy with 200k miles. My check engine light lit up today while driving my nephew to his aunts house. Went to auto zone to have them analyze and address the issue and provide codes (for free) and they gave me a list of 4 possibilities. First recommendation by them was the fuel tank cap and replacing it. I didn't hesitate to purchase one as it was only $10. In the earlier posts, you mentioned that if the cap is the problem, 2 driving cycles should turn the check light off. I just wanted to verify that by 2 driving cycles, you mean driving the car, letting the engine cool down and then driving it again and having the engine cool down a second time? I'd appreciate the help. Cheers mate

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Omar,

      Do you have a automatic or standard transmission?

    • omar honda 3 years ago

      My 92 honda accord engine runs but wont move ? Any advice thnx

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mel,

      Unless you notice fuel missing, I don't believe anyone can siphon any from your vehicle. Honda has ingeniously installed a stopper in the base of the fuel filler neck to stop fuel thieves from stealing fuel. One of these times the light comes on, I would have the code checked, maybe something else is causing the light to come on. Thanks for stopping by and commenting :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi h70851,

      Sorry for the late response, I didn't see your post. There are so many things that can cause a misfire code, but the CRV engine has been notorious for having tight exhaust valves. This is just a shot in the dark, but I would have the valves adjusted by someone who know how to adjust Honda engine valves. It should cost about 1.2/1.5 hours of labor and a gasket set. With that kind of mileage, you may have a couple of tight exhaust valves. That's where I would start if I were working on that vehicle. Let me know what you find out on the valves h70851, I'm very curious to know if that's your problem, and the feedback would be priceless for other readers, thanks :)

    • Mel Carriere profile image

      Mel Carriere 3 years ago from San Diego California

      I have a Honda Civic, and my Check Engine will come on if the gas cap has not been tightened enough. It always goes away after a period of time after I tighten the lid properly, which means at least three series of clicks. At times I think people in the neighborhood are siphoning my gas because the light comes on and then I discover the gas cap is loose.

    • h70851 3 years ago

      Hello,

      I have a 2007 Honda CRV. Engine light came on, garage replaced spark plugs and coils on cylinder 1 &4. Light came on again days later. Found that the coils from Honda were no good, recalled? Had the new ones replaced again and at least the third cylinder coil, not sure about the 4th, replaced as well. The joy of no dash lights did last for long, engine light on again. Was told the computer was "corrupt"?? and they reprogrammed it. The engine light came on again and was told it may take a few days to work itself out. That was 7 days ago, its still on. Went to Autozone, got a diagnostic, reads " misfire on cylinder 1 &4"--the original problem. Funny, the light went off for a couple of days after this diagnostic, but of course is now on again. So before I bring back the car AGAIN, any thoughts for 4 visits and

      $800 later. THe car has run fine through all of this except for a bit of low idling which did not exist before. This shop has been a respected trustful auto fix for many years. 165,000 long distance miles. Thank you and would appreciate your thoughts.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Alex, that's great!! I knew if you asked around, someone would help you out, there really is a few good shops out there, lol. I have another website called simple-car-answers .com where people like you can write reviews about shops that have helped them out or who stiffed them, there is only one review to this date, but it's a work in progress, kind of like angieslist. I would really appreciate it if you wrote a short review there and it would help jump start my new site. Let me know what you think, and keep me posted on your check engine light, thanks Alex.

    • afralps4 3 years ago

      Thanks to Hanlon Auto Service Center of Laguna Hills, CA for checking the cause of my 2005 Honda Civic EX (Special edition) Check-Engine light. They said result of scan is: Code P1457 HONDA - Evaporative Emissions Control System Leakage EVAP Canister System.

      See this link: http://engine-codes.com/p1457_honda.html

      Possible causes:

      - Missing Fuel cap

      - Incorrect fuel filler cap used

      - Fuel filler cap remains open or fails to close

      - Foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap

      Symptoms:

      - Engine Light ON (or Service Engine Soon Warning Light)

      - Possible a noticeable fuel odor caused by the release of fuel vapors

      They scanned & reset the check-engine light for free. Also told me that it may have been cause by a lose gas-cap or, if the check-engine light comes back, they'll do a smoke test to find out the source of the leak. Apparently the fuel filter on these cars is made out of plastic and not so sturdy, so sometimes they could get a hair-line crack and small leak. Waiting to see if light comes back or hopefully not.

    • afralps4 3 years ago

      Eddie, thanks for the advice and your helpful site. I'll buy on of the scan-tools recommended in the blue-box. I found a great Auto service shop near me in Laguna Hills, CA that will check the code for free! Also they've been recommended by a neighbor of mine and have great reviews online. I'm taking my car down today to have it checked out. I'll post the results of the diagnostics / codes and the suggested cost of repairs by the shop as soon as I have it. Regards, Alex

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Afralps4

      I think if you brought it to one of the Autozones or Pepboys, they might check the code for free, most likely you have a p01456, which would be a canister vent shut valve, but you need to have the code checked. If you can't find someone to check the code for under $50, it would be worth it to buy a decent scan tool. (read my tips on buying a scan tool in the blue box in the above article, it will definitely point you in the right direction) It sounds like you have some knowledge about cars and how they work, so owning your on scan tool will be beneficial for you in the long run. The DLC plug should be located under the dash on the drivers side, close to where your knees are, it should be pretty easy to find. Let me know what you find Afralps4, thanks.

    • afralps4 3 years ago

      Hi, I have a yellow check-engine light (NOT BLINKING) on my 2005 Honda Civic EX. The car runs OK and it is not running rough at all. The temperature seems to be normal. My car has not been to the shop recently, but all maintenance and oil changes have been done on time. I've checked oil & transmission fluid levels, and all the connection and hoses look OK as far as I can see. I thought it may have been cause by a loose gas-cap. So I tightened the gas cap, filled the gas tank, & disconnected the battery. Check engine light went away for a day, but it is back again. Is it safe to assume that it was not the loose gas-cap that caused it? Honda dealer wants $120 to run a OBDII check. Would it be better if I buy a scanner from Autozone and do the check myself? Where is the DLC plug? Is it under the driver panel where your right knee would be when you are driving? I'd appreciate your advice.

    • afralps4 3 years ago

      Hi, I have a yellow check engine light (NOT BLINKING) on my 2005 Honda Civic EX. I thought it may have been cause by a loose gas-cap. So I tightened the gas cap, filled the gas tank, & disconnected the battery. Check engine light went away for a day, but it is back again. Is it safe to assume that it was not the loose gas-cap that caused it? I've checked oil & transmission fluid levels, and all the connection and hoses look OK as far as I can see. Honda dealer wants $120 to run a OBDII check. Would it be better if I buy a scanner from Autozone and do the check myself? Where is the DLC plug? Is it under the driver panel where your right knee would be when you are driving? I'd appreciate your advice.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi PG,

      The air box was left loose because someone was checking the air filter for up-sell and forgot to tighten it, I'm sure the service manager was well aware. There must be some type of air flow sensor in the intake air tube causing your problem. Thanks for the feedback PG, I really appreciate it, and if you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to find me :) If you want to share this page on Facebook or Twitter, I wouldn't mind a bit :)

    • PG 3 years ago

      Thanks for the tip Eddie. Got my car back and the problem was airbox was loose. Not sure what it means and even the service manager is puzzled on why would someone touch air box just for oil change and trans fluid change.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi PG,

      I wonder if they forgot to add trans fluid back in the trans after they dumped it? Try pulling the dipstick on the trans (yellow) with the engine off and the car on level ground, if there is no fluid on the stick, you're low on trans fluid, if that is the case, don't drive it, you'll do more damage. Please let me know what you find, if that's not your problem, we can dig a little deeper, thanks PG.

    • PG 3 years ago

      I have 2007 Honda accord and recently I had been to Honda dealership for oil change, trans fluid change and replace heat shield that came off while driving. But after I came back from dealership noticed that whenever brakes are applied losing the power and I really had to pedal hard to keep the car moving. Couple of times the car came to complete stop. In short after a stop the car doesn't accelerate smoothly and now after 2 days the check engine light came on. I have already called the same dealer and told them about the problem which wasn't there before servicing. Meanwhile curious to know what could be the problem so that I am aware of it when I go to the dealership.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sush, welcome back :)

      The P1457 is the canister vent shut valve, it's very common on all Honda vehicles and it's an easy fix. You just need to remove the charcoal canister and the valve is mounted at the end, remove the two screws and replace the valve. Depending on where you live in the country, you may have a tough time removing the screws, and in some cases, the whole canister will have to be replaced.

      The P1298 is the ELD or electrical load detector, it's located in the under hood fuse box and it's pretty simple to replace. Disconnect the battery, then you just remove the two screws holding down the ELD, flip the fuse box over and unplug it from the back side of the fuse box, then put it back together in the reverse order.

      Both problems will cost anywhere from $200- $500, it all depends on if you decide to do the work yourself or have someone do it for you. Let me know how you make out Sush, and if you have any other questions, you know where to find me :)

    • sush 3 years ago

      Hi This is sush again. Couple of months back I had this check engine light on, after mechanic erased that code it didn't appear it again for a while but now it came again 2 days ago, I showed it to mechanic he checked it thoroughly (smoke test) said replace the gas cap and erased the code now today light came again. I checked the code those are P1298 and P1457. Could you please help me what could be the reason n how critical these codes are, is something big expense coming my way?

    • rebecca98 3 years ago

      Thanks a lot! Eddie,

      Your advice is invaluable.

      I'll let you know later about the process.

      Great many thanks again!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rebecca,

      I wouldn't trade the vehicle, it's a great car (SUV) If you have bad fuel, you need to address the station where you purchased it form and they will usually foot the bill for the repairs, because if your bought bad fuel, a lot of other people did too. I would not buy and extended warranty, you don't need it and it's a waste of money. I believe your power train warranty goes to 50k, check your warranty book.

      Let me know how everything works out after the repair, they will have to drain the tank and replace all the filters and that could get pricey, so go after the gas stations for reimbursement.

    • rebecca98 3 years ago

      I got a call from the dealership saying that it was contaminated with bad gas.

    • rebecca98 3 years ago

      I've got 36011 mileage going 11 miles over the basic warranty mileage limit (36000) that I have. Do you think I need to buy an extended warranty or trade it with a same brand new car 2013 with the same condition? I feel like the car isn't dependable any more. What do you think would be a good reasonable resolution? Given the troubles with the car, I don't feel comfortable driving the car without warranty.

    • rebecca98 3 years ago

      I got the codes P0302, P0117, and P0365 from an Auto zone. It was flashing in the past Saturday night but the next day Sunday, yesterday, I drove it to the Auto zone, it wasn't flashing. I drove it back to my hometown 75 miles and never flashing at all.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Maria,

      It all depends what kind of vehicle and with what size engine, size does matter :) and what kind of plugs, regular or platinum. let me know, thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Rebecca,

      The code needs to be pulled from the computer. When the check engine light is flashing, it means the catalytic converter is being damaged. I would have it towed to a garage, or if the garage is close, drive it 3-4 miles. I would suspect that the engine is not running well, so don't put yourself in a situation where you might breakdown. Let me know what they find, i'm very curious, thanks Rebecca.

    • Maria 3 years ago

      What is a reasonable price for the spark plugs to be changed?

    • rebecca98 3 years ago

      my crv 2011 started showing check engine light and slippery road sign on a day after the radiator replacement in the dealership and next day they disappeared. Today the check engine light is blinking and the slippery road sign turned back on. I am out of town 80 miles away from my town.

      What should I do? Please help me!

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Christiansen,

      The P0138 in high voltage in the front O2 sensor, and the P1457 is most likely a canister vent shut valve, it's pretty easy to replace, just remove the canister and the valve is mounted to the canister with two screws. You have two separate problems, so you need to fix both Let me know how you make out :)

    • christiansen1177 3 years ago

      i have an 02 honda civic ex, just got code p0138 and p1457, where should i start

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kathy,

      The 02 Accord v6 had a lot of transmission issues, mostly differential bearings wearing out prematurely, this would cause a whine noise, axle seals to leak and also cause some transmission codes like P0780. If the transmission shop can't fix it, you may need to bring it to the Honda dealer. There is a service bulletin on the P0780 code, you may want to have the shop look it up, it may shine a little light on the problem for them.

      Let me know what happens Kathy, and thanks for all the feedback so far :)

    • kschoenick 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      Thanks for your quick response. I have the car at a Transmission Shop, (Certified Transmission Specialists, Streamwood, IL). They have been very good at trying to get this resolved. They said that it is a P0780 code and that at this time they are going to remove and replace a shift kit. I am sure with these computers that to pin point it must be hard. Any ideas would be great!

      Thanks,

      Kathy

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Kathy,

      On the v6 Accord the O2 sensor is not near the oil filter, it's actually off to the side in a great location, easy to change with no obstructions. The TCS light will illuminate the check engine light, but the TCS light can reset itself if the system is OK, the check engine light will not reset itself, it will have to be clear with a HDS (Honda Scan Tool) or a regular scan tool.

      Is the vehicle at a Honda garage?

      Let me know if you have any other questions Kathy, and let me know what they find when you have a minute. I can't guess at what's causing the light's to come on because I don't know the codes that are popping up. I'll wait to hear from you, thanks :)

    • kschoenick 3 years ago

      Eddie,

      Didn't tell you what kind of car I had in my earlier post.

      It's 2002 Honda Accord v6.

      Thanks,

      Kathy

    • kschoenick 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie,

      I have found your posts are very helpful. My transmission has been slipping for about a year but not bad and no check engine light ever came on, but after an oil change and a rear brake bulb replaced and they said that my transmission fluid looked bad, not a surprise for me I knew that I would a new transmission. Well, real soon after the oil change my check engine light came on. I figured it was about time to replace the transmission so I went in and they ran the codes and said that yes they needed to open it up and check further. They did have to rebuild the transmission. Two days after I picked it up the TCS and the Check engine light came back on. The TCS light soon went off but the check engine light remained on. Took it back and they kept running codes and decided to replace some solenoidal. Seven days later some lights came on again. They decided to pulled the transmission to check and cleaned connections and replaced the (converter?), what ever it is that lets the car communicate with the transmission. Well two days later the lights came on the same way and the check engine light is still on. I will be taking it back to the guy, but I wonder if It could be what you had mentioned about the oil filter right by the oxygen sensor and that maybe that has been compromised. Anyway if you have any suggestions I would love to hear.

      Thanks,

      Kathy

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Collins,

      The oil level problem is obvious an oil leak that needs to be addressed. the check engine light is a different problem and the way your vehicle is acting, it really sounds to me like you have poor fuel or water in your fuel tank. The first thing I would try is replacing he fuel filter and adding some dry gas to the fuel tank. If the vehicle starts running better, it might be a good idea to drain the fuel tank and start with fresh gas. Let me know if this helps, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Any suggestions,

      The drive light flashing is for the transmission, which caused your check engine light to come on, I,m still scratching my head on the low coolant. I would start with the most obvious and have the coolant leak checked out, but before you drive, check your transmission fluid level, I think it may be low. Let me know if I can help in any other way :) and let e know what you find, I would really appreciate it, thanks.

    • korkie 3 years ago

      Hi eddie

      Collins here once again, Just forgot to tell you the genesis of check engine light, hope it doesn't confuse you more:: A year ago was on rough muddy road and had to press harder on the gas pedal for car not to get stuck on mud for 3 kilometer stretch, engine light come on and once i reached gas station, popped up the bonnet, checked level of oil and added a quarter little of oil. Check engine light disappeared. Next day morning checked level and was too high, had to reduce to the recommended level. Since then i have had the same problem

    • korkie 3 years ago

      Hi Eddie.

      I have a Honda ballade (civic) 1997 with 222K kilometers. Have observed the following: ( on and off occurrence): 1. when slowing down engine shuts off, refuses to startoff upto after five tries, then starts off with engine light on, engine runs rough and high gas rev, looses power.2. when accelerating engine hesitates abruptly like no gas reaching engine but still running, engine light comes on and runs rough, exhaust starts to smell differently. What i do to move on: (at time works, other times fails) 1. i shut engine off while in gear two, then fire it up again while car still in motion, back to normal. 2. i pull aside, kill the engine for some times, at times remove one end of battery, reconnects, fire up the engine and move on.3. on rare cases i pull up to gas station, add gas, fire the engine and all is ok.... very confusing ... Kindly assist, i have never changed the o2 sensors or catalytic convertor,, nor plugs wires, regularly services car, .Suggestions please. Am in Africa, a country called Kenya

    • Okay, so here is my problem, perhaps you can help. Drove home from work, picked my kid up like normal drove to the store. It was raining out so I couldn't tell if my car was lightly smoking, if it was 3 years ago

      Okay, so here is my problem, perhaps you can help. Drove home from work, picked my kid up like normal drove to the store. It was raining out so I couldn't tell if my car was lightly smoking, if it was the car in front of me or if it was a car passing me. As I pulled into a parking spot my car lurched and the oil light came on. I had put oil in it 2 months ago, but I figured I would top it off with 2 quarts. On my way home from the store all of a sudden my drive light started flashing and you could tell that my car was indeed smoking. About 15 seconds later the check engine light came on so I pulled over, flipped on my hazards and turned my car off. When it had cooled down enough, popped the radiator cap and put some diluted coolant into it. However, I noticed that the coolant was leaking out of the bottom. Any suggestions?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey M Yaseen,

      That was easy, nice job :) whenever the check engine light comes on, the first step is to know the code or codes, it gives you a starting point. Glad to hear the fix was that easy, and you're welcome, thank you M Yaseen for the feedback, I really appreciate it.

      If you ever need answers , you know where to find me. Don't forget to click the like button so you can share this informatio with people on Facebook, you never know who need this kind of information, thanks ;)

    • M Yaseen 3 years ago

      Hii Eddie , today I went to another workshop he just communicated with the diagnostic tool to car and he found the error message 23-1 knock sensor (1) no signal . Then he checked then he checked the connector of knock signal near to car starter and he found it was loose . He tigtened the wire connector of knock sensor after that this engine check symbol vanished . Thanks for reply .

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi M Yaseen,

      There are many reasons for the check engine being on, I recommend bringing it back to the mechanic who did the work and have them pull the code from the computer, it may be something they did, but the first step is to find out what code it is. It sounds to me like it's possibly a misfire code, but like I said, you won't know for sure until you have the code checked. Let me know what you find, and if you have more questions, you know where to find me :)

    • M Yaseen 3 years ago

      Hii , I have a Honda CRV 2004 model . 4 days before I went for service of my car and since then my car is having problem of engine check light on . The engine check light dont get on immediately after engine start. But after 3-4 km run the engine check light gets trun on but it do not blink at all. What can be the reason . The mechanic washed one of the spark plug with water during service . Is there any possibility of water or moisture in spark plug for engine check indication after running car 3-4 kilometers . Please reply . Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      The CEL will be on solid if there is a code in the computer, if you can't read the code, you may want to check the pins in the DLC, make sure one of the pins has not pushed out the back. If all the pins are OK, you may have a problem whit the PCM. Let me know about the cat converter, thanks.

    • Tyle Collins 3 years ago

      alright ill check the cat by removing my O2 one of my spark plugs had oil on it so i replaced the tube seals and plugs, so i had to gap the plugs to spec rebuilt the disturber New Coil and new ingniter, and at last new plug wires the reason i replaced the PGM-FI Relay is because during the idle it had died so i thought a fuel issue i aslo had no fuel preeure so i checked the Fuel pump was ok and no it wouldn't start (keep in mind that this was before the replacement relay came) even with the new relay i now have Solid CEL and I can't read the codes it says connection error

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tyler,

      There are a few possibilities for this problem, it sounds like your timing is off or your catalytic converter is clogged, so these are the things I would check first.

      1. Remove the distributor cap and check for rust dust, it's possible the bearing is seizing up.

      2. Check your timing belt and make sure it did not jump a tooth or 2, you will need to remove the valve cover and top timing cover. You can check your spark plug tubes at the same time, make sure they're not filled with oil.

      3. If everything looks good on top, remove the catalytic converter, you may need to back off the manifold from the head and give it an 1/2 gap to breath,then fire it up, see if it revs, if you have an o2 sensor before the catalytic converter, you could remove it instead of removing the manifold, and check to see if the engine revs.

      Let me know what you find Tyler or if you have more questions, BTW, the pgm-fi relay will not cause this problem, it will only cause a no start condition.

    • TylerCollins1993 3 years ago

      I have 98 Honda civic ex that will crank but not start before this, is was idling just fine but wouldn't rev over 1300 RPM so I replaced my PGM/FI Relay and now I have a solid CEL can you help Me? This is driving me up a wall trying to figure this out?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Hondagirl,

      The check engine light is probably the canister vent shut valve, it's very common in those year Honda's. Keep me updated on what happens, thanks :)

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      It is a 4cyl. Getting ready to do a timing belt and fix the sistributor. If th car still acts up then i will have the emmisions tested. We put a can of injector cleaner thru rhe tank and that was when it Was acting like it wasn't getting gas. It hasn't stalled out on me but twice and the first time it was rigjt after we did the new plugs. It hasn't done ot again since then but sometomes i feel like it hesitates. No real loss of power or control. It is also not an auto tranny. Will let you know what happens when we finish the tune up. Engine light was cleared and last time it was 250like miles nefore it came back on after it seemed to javr a fuel issue.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Hondagirl,

      It's very unusual to have a computer fail, and if it does, something caused it to fail like a faulty part or human error. Before you change it out I recommend fixing the emissions code, if you have an EGR valve sticking open or something silly like that, it would cause your engine to stall, so fix the code first before you go any further. Let me know how you make out, and if you have any other questions, you know where to find me :) Is the Accord a V6?

    • hondagirltx 3 years ago

      Hi...i just bought a used 98to accord with 185k. Engine light is on and twice it has died while stopped at a light. Secokd time it was like it wasn't getting fuel. Took it to a garage and they said it was the computer. I had a friend check it also with a code reader. He has over 15 yrs experience and he said it was just an emmisions code and not the computer. He told me to replace the distributor cap amd rotor. We have already done the plugs and wires. The car gets like better than awesome mileage and i did buy a used computer for it but haven't put it in. I am afraid i will replace it and then my keys wont work or something. I want to send the computer back and get my money back but my husband says to wait. Who do i beleive. Any help would be gret.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sush, I'm glad your light did not come back on, and thank you for the feedback, it's very much appreciated :) If you ever need any car advice, you know where to find me ;)

    • Sush 3 years ago

      Thanks for the information. check engine light didn't come on. Information provided on this page is very helpful. Thanks.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      No the light will only come on steady if the is another code in the computer, if the light remains out, the code did not come back.

    • Sush 3 years ago

      No, I do not remember what codes were as I didn't note it down when I saw the mechanic yesterday. Hopefully by tomorrow it should stop flashing. But will the check engine light remain on even after starting the engine as it was before I showed to mechanic. He said to see him if it continuously remains on after starting engine. Thanks again.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sush, you're welcome :)

      Do you know what the codes are?

      Readiness codes should be set in two complete driving cycles, so by tomorrow it should stop flashing.

    • Sush 3 years ago

      Thank you very much for your quick response. Really appreciate it. Yes I am sure its a check engine light and not maintenance light. I just read the owners manual and it says if readiness codes are not set it blinks for 5 times. Codes were erased yesterday when I showed it to garage since my check engine light was on continuously after engine was on. Mechanic only reset it, he said he dosent sees major problem so he erased it and asked me to drive for few days and if the check engine light comes on then see him.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Sush,

      That's odd, are you sure it's the check engine light and not the maintenance light ? Just double check that for me and let me know, thanks :)

    • Sush 3 years ago

      Hi,

      I have Honda civic 2002. Check engine light flashes for 5 times and it goes off when I start the engine. It never comes up again till the next ignition. what could be the reason.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mithina,

      You need to bring your vehicle to a garage so a mechanic can retrieve the codes with a scan tool, some shops do it for free, others will make you pay.

    • mithina 3 years ago

      kindly let me know where i can find these codes

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mithina,

      The D light is flashing, which means you also have a transmission code. (problem) These codes need to be retrieved. Once you know the codes, it will give you some idea of what is wrong with your car. The noise your hear when putting your car in reverse is directly related to the transmission code (DTC). Have that code checked first and then you'll know what you have to do next.

    • mithina 3 years ago

      thanks for that i gave for oil service and and my engine oil has been replaced and please let me know about the sound when i shift my gear to reverse mode . its terrible to hear that sound . kindly advice me about that problem

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Mithin,

      It sounds like your transmission fluid is low, i would check the transmission fluid level first, add Honda fluid if needed, and then have the check engine light code checked out. Let me know what you find Mithin, thank you.

    • mithina 3 years ago

      hi

      i am mithin i have honda accord 2003 automatic , in my dashboard the orange light for check engine remains glowing and D4 in flashing , and other thing is while shifting to reverse gear the thud sound comes and i saw my engine is shaking .

      while driving 30-40 speed suddenly it deaccelerate and goes to neutral slows down the speed and gets off .

      please help me out to solve these issues .

      regards

      mithin

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Robert,

      When you say very low on oil, are we talking 2 quarts or 4 quarts?

      How bad is the shake?

      Does it happen at idle or only while accelerating?

      I think you have a faulty coil pack or spark plug. I'll wait to hear back from you.

    • robert francis 3 years ago

      Ny daughter has a 2006 honda civic while on her way home check engine lite came on and car started shaking. it was very low on oil but when oil was added it would start but still shaking. she is presently being towed. What do u think?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Tony,

      You need to pull the code for the check engine light it will point you in the right direction, and the oil light usually comes on because you're low on oil, I would check the oil level first before going any further.

      On a 96 Accord, if it's has a long crank time before starting, I would start by checking the distributor cap, rotor, plug and wires, it sounds to me like you have weak spark. There is a common problem with those cars as well, the PGM-FI main relay can cause that type of symptom too.

      Let me know what you find Tony.

    • tony 3 years ago

      question I have a 96 honda accord that is giving me a hard time starting when it does finally start the check engine and check oil light comes on what is it

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Helen,

      So the clutch switch is no good? OK cool, let me know if you have any other troubles or if you need any other advice about your car, and thanks for the feedback Helen, it's much appreciated :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Helen,

      The check engine light will come on every time the ignition key is turn to the on position, then it will turn off after the engine has started. The computer is just doing a bulb check, if the light were to stay on after the engine has started, then you would have a problem.

      You said the engine wouldn't start, does the engine turn over and just not catch, or does the car just click (like a dead battery)? I suspect it's turning over and not catching. If that's the case, it's probably either the Ignitor or coil, both are located in the distributor, and they are common parts that fail, plus the rpm's jumping around 3000 is a sure sign of a loose wire on the coil or a bad ignitor.

      Helen, once you get your car fixed, could you come back here and let me know what they did to fix it, the feedback is very important to me, thanks :)

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hey Jamie,

      Africa? That's awesome! Hope I can help,

      You say you have little spark, so if the spark is weak, but it is present, usually that's caused by a faulty igniter. Let me know if this helps.

    • jamie 4 years ago

      Thank you for the reply. I am in south africa. We are unable to get the code. We did take the solinoid out to be repaired, there was no problem with it. We know that there is very little spark in the distibuter, we have just taken out a 7.5a fuse which took the engine light out as well as the alternator light.

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Jamie

      Do you know what the code is? If you know the code, it would point you in the right direction. I have never heard of that kind of Honda car, where do you live? Anyways, something else you can check is the main relay, it's usually located in the fuse box under the dash on the drivers side. Let me know if you have any other questions or if you know the code.

    • jamie 4 years ago

      Hi, I have a 1996 honda balade luxliner. The engine light comes on and there is no spark at all. We have tried honda who couldn't find the problem, have given the car a service, replaced the modual and coil. But still the engine light is on. Any suggestions?

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Paul,

      When the engine light flashes, it means there is damage being done to the catalytic converter. The first thing you need to do is check for codes. Checking for codes will point you in the right direction, and you can start the diagnosis process. Let me know if that helps or if you have the codes.

    • paultrueba 4 years ago

      repaired 2011 civic w/1.8. repair was new engine/head replacement due to overheating original engine due to a broken radiator. customer called after 200 freeway miles that the engine light is on ,however running fine.

      called a second time that the light flashes and vehicle starts running rough. after cooling down for 5-10 minutes runs fine for 30-40 min. then flashing again....any ideas

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      You're welcome Klose, you know where to find me if you have any other questions.

    • Klose 4 years ago

      I'll try that and hopefully get rid of check engine light.

      I really appreciate your help.

      Thanks

    • eddiecarrara profile image
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      Eddie Carrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire

      Hi Klose,

      Yes, just replace the O2 sensor, if you Google "oxygen sensor for a 2011 Honda Accord" there should be a list of places where you can buy one, I know Amazon sells O2 sensors but you may have to rewire the connector, it's not hard, it would take less then 5 min. Let me know if you need any more help Klose, I'll be right here.

    • klose 4 years ago

      By the way, my car was shipped from the U.S. to U.A.E.

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