Air Conditioning (A/C) Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor
Ford Fusion owners: Beware if your A/C has stopped working!
Ford had a genius idea to install a sensor in the top of the evaporator case. What does this mean to the owners of the Fusion? I should start by saying there are many reasons why your car's A/C can stop working. But on the Fusion, if the A/C compressor is not turning on, you will need to change the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor.
The sensor tells the computer what the air's temperature is at the exit point of the evaporator. When it senses that it's cold, it turns off the compressor. Otherwise, the system would freeze.
Well, sometimes these sensors short out and will not allow compressor operation. Ford is well aware that the sensors are faulty. So I suggest that if your Fusion has low miles and is out of warranty, you contact Ford and demand they repair it.
I have changed the sensor on cars as low as 22,000 miles (but it was over three years old). The problem is that you must remove the entire dashboard to change this part and there is no way around it.
The total labor for this job is 6.7 hrs, and the part costs $17.49. Depending on your area, the average price for the job would be around $600 + tax. I do it for $500 out the door. I have heard of people paying in excess of $800! If you are the do-it-yourself kind of person, I will attach the instructions on changing the sensor yourself below.
- Remove the instrument panel.
- Detach the A/C evaporator discharge air temperature sensor.
- Disconnect the sensor's electrical connector.
- Remove the sensor.
- To install, reverse the removal procedure.
How to Remove the Instrument Panel
CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.
1. De-power the supplemental restraint system (SRS).
2. Remove the floor console.
3. Remove the LH and RH instrument panel end trim panels.
4. Remove the weather striping from the front door openings near the instrument panel.
5. Remove the A-pillar trim panels.
6. Remove the RH and LH cowl kick panels.
7. From behind the LH kick panel, disconnect the two electrical connectors.
8. From behind the RH kick panel, disconnect the bulkhead electrical connector and the antenna lead-in cable.
CAUTION: To avoid damage to the bulkhead electrical connector, be sure the release handle is in the full UPWARD position before disconnecting the electrical connector.
9. From underneath the glove box, disconnect the three A/C electrical connectors.
10. Disconnect the electrical connector and retainer located on the floor between the two front seats.
11. NOTE: To make sure of proper location during installation, index-mark the position of the steering column shaft before removing the pinch bolt. Remove the steering column pinch bolt.
12. Remove the instrument cluster finish panel.
13. Remove the instrument cluster.
- Remove the 2 screws.
- Remove the instrument cluster.
- Disconnect the electrical connector.
14. Remove the two instrument panel center brace bolts.
- To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
15. From through the instrument cluster opening, remove the two instrument cluster opening bolts.
- To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
16. Remove the two instrument panel lower bolts.
- To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).
17. Remove the instrument panel. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the instrument panel, this next step requires the help of an assistant.
- Remove the three instrument panel cowl side upper bolts.
- To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).
CAUTION: To avoid an improper connection at the bulkhead electrical connector, be sure to position the connector for installation then push the release handle to the full DOWNWARD position until it clicks. To install, reverse the removal procedure.
- Re-power the SRS.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Paul on May 16, 2020:
Well you’re an idiot for not seeing if you were following a completed guide.
Dave504 on October 08, 2018:
Hey Scotty, I have a 2011 Ford Fusion with a bad evap temp sensor. I was wondering if I could access it by removing the center of dashboard compartment? And if so, what all needs removed other than the two bolts holding it in ?
Chris on July 18, 2018:
I have had my Ford Fusion to the dealer twice to be fixed. Now the car doesn't start at all. The mechanic siad they screwed something up the last time it was in. What could they have screwed up to make the car not start at all
Jerry marsh on June 13, 2018:
Mine blows cold just not real hard blower is working great just not much airflow no cabin air filter
bobsus on August 04, 2017:
I just replaced the sensor and all went well until I tried it. Now the radio/navigation/climate controls do not work. If I press the radio power button the time displays but that is all. Warning sensors on the gauge console are also lit up. The car will start and drives fine. Any ideas? I have checked my connectors and they are all connected.
Roger on June 27, 2017:
There's a guy on YouTube that shows you to just drill a new hole and insert a new one. Put hole in the side of the evap box
Gons on October 10, 2016:
I have a ford fusion 2010 and the A/C not working any more, compressor can't power on, my question is, this procedure applies for my car? Thanks in advance.
Rmoney on July 13, 2016:
I'm doing this procedure step by step and for some reason when it gets to step 13, there are no more steps listed only comments. I'm at a standstill until I can see the other steps. Thanks,
sam on July 08, 2016:
hey just wondering if this applies to a 2013 ford fusion as well
Jamie A Reid on April 30, 2016:
Critical note. Just did my 2011 Fusion. Unfortunately my wheels are now straight at 2 o'clock on the wheel. I made witness marks, strapped the wheel from moving and removed the bolt as shown in this video BUT you don't need to remove the bolt because there is a bolt free mechanical join maybe 4 inches above - you can see it in the same diagram. Make your witness marks there, maybe as well as at the firewall connection. Once I pulled the dash out and saw what happened I knew I was now going to be a victim of spline roulette. I lost. Now I need an alignment to correct it... sometime. Good news? AC works again.
Ray on April 20, 2016:
Hi, well I have a ford fusion 2010, v6, 3.0 lt, and A/C quit, I already replace eva temp sensor but problem continues, can you help to found a/c schematic to check if a have a defective sensor. Thank you
ben on April 20, 2016:
if checking all the fuses and relays, i have no power to the compressor but i have a good ground to the compressor. do you believe that this would be the problem on a 2010 ford focus
Hillary on April 01, 2016:
I had the same problem and had the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor changed, my father did it, took a whole day, but saved money on going to a repair shop. It worked for a day, but now it is back to not getting cold again. Once in a while it will get cold for a minute, but that's it. Any thoughts on this problem? I live in Boynton Beach by the way.
David I. on November 10, 2015:
Just got my 2008 Lincoln mkz back from the Philphott Ford dealership in Nederland, TX... $1082 to replace the evap temp sensor. My problem is my steering wheel isn't straight while driving down the road, I took it back and they said nothing they did would have caused that. What do you say? Thanks.
Linda on September 19, 2015:
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! YOUR THE BEST!!! My daughter and I were able to do the job using your instructions and a video post on YouTube!!! She now has cold air in her 2009 Ford Fusion!!! :-D
T. Jack on August 09, 2015:
I have a 2015 Fusion Hybrid and I have the same problem. I left my son in the car while the engine was running with ac blowing cold. I got back to my car and hot air was blowing from the ac. My son is 15 years old and had fell asleep. Luckily, I was right near my car because he had fell asleep and it was 105 degrees outside. He probably would have passed out if this an extended period of time.
I cannot believe Ford comtinues to not address this issue. Someone is going to die.
KimberlyP on July 30, 2015:
Can you cut the dash to get to the evap temp sensor?? The compartment is right behind the sensor , question is can you reach it, has it been done???? Yes or no all I need to know, have a great mechanic to do it, kust asking...help please!!!
Lewis on July 26, 2015:
I used your directions and it worked great but now I can't get my car to start the passive security system anti theft light is on the dash. Do you have any advice
06 Fusion on July 20, 2015:
Need your help. Evaporater needs to be replaced. Where is your shop?
VICKI on June 27, 2015:
ARE THE 2013 FUSIONS HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM?
Eric B on June 13, 2015:
Excellent post. Glad I found it. I have a 2006 Fusion and the air suddenly quit. I verified the failed component by the quick fix described at instructables.com. I was able to leave the left A-pillar trim and the shifter in place, leave the steering coupling connected (leaving the adjustment lever down for adjusting the column), and just shifting the right side of the panel outward. Took about 4 hours with breaks.
BRANDON on May 05, 2015:
i replaced the evap sensors and still nothing. it seems as if im not getting power to the ac controls is there a solution to that problem that you might know of
Jake on April 06, 2015:
Change the the evap temp sensor, and pressure cycling switch and compressor still will not turn on.. Jump it and it turned on for a while before the pressure relive valve engaged.. Need some expert advice.
Mitsumedic on April 02, 2015:
Thank you so much for this post. Working on a used car, this saved my *ss! Followed your directions, done and with A.C. in under 4 hours. The interweb is a wonderful place...
Corey on July 28, 2014:
I was curious to know where you posted your videos of how to do this the "short cut" way. My A/C blows just not cold air. It's only hot air! I checked the relay and the relay is good because I replaced that. My compressor wasn't kicking on but when I bipassed the relay it came on and would blow cold air. The compressor has ground so I have no idea what the problem is. Any help would be greatly appreciated since it is the summer time in Texas! Thanks
rdanser61 on July 28, 2014:
Hey Ray, Excellent instructions! I am not throwing a code so I am reluctant to go through the process to replace the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor. Is there any way to test it without pulling the dash. I would expect you could find the proper connection below the glove box and use an ohm meter to see if you have an open, a short or some resistance if the sensor is good. I don't know the color code of the wires for the sensor.
I have jumpered the relay and tested the compressor blows cool air. I have used a cheap 134a hose and meter to see if the system is operating within range. I have checked the fuses and relays that are related to the system0.
walkerlh from Rome, Georgia on June 25, 2014:
This was Perfect, Right on the money Made the repair in 2 hours. Made good easy moneyu and I looked like a genius Thanks Man
Raymond on May 31, 2014:
Change the sensor AC still not blowing cold any ideas?
Mauricio on May 20, 2014:
Does anyone knows what would happen if i just remove the sensor..?
Johnk471 on May 17, 2014:
I do not even know how I stopped up here, however I assumed this put up was good. I do not recognise who you are however definitely you're going to a wellknown blogger for those who are not already eedgckdbkkda
Eddie on April 26, 2014:
Any chance you can tell me where I can buy a female connector to the a/c compressor? I was troubleshooting the clutch and trying to bypass it with my Power Probe. However the connector got stripped out when the car turned on and it hit the belt.
2010 Ford Fusion Dealer told me they need to order the whole harness for that connector.
bobbyndallas on April 13, 2014:
I just finished this job myself. And YES I HAVE AIR COND!!! I am in Texas and it is hot here. Thanks to all the people who posted with advice here. Fred, your instructions were very helpful. The biggest difficulty I had was getting the old sensor out/ unplugged. I could not see it only feel. They snap together.
Just a note here about the steering column. It is not as hard to do as I thought. It came apart when I pulled the dash out. Putting it back together does require some line-up finesse, and the pinch bolt can be a bit difficult to get back in. The advice about tying the wheel was very helpful but, also, do mark the spot where the ujoint is before you remove it. There are three pieces and pulling the dash out will cause them to come apart.
Thanks again to all who gave advice. This is about the only post I could find about this, although I know this is a big problem with the fusion.
gerry on April 11, 2014:
Hi ray I got problem with my 2011 ford fusión 3.0 the a/c compressor don't want turn on I see the relay and I pass directly ground and compressor is work and cold inside can you help me with that
bobbyndallas on April 10, 2014:
I have a 07 Fusion and I am facing the same problem. OBD indicates evap temp sensor. I appreciate all that I have seen and read here.
Has anyone made a video about replacing the evap sensor yet? Ray?
Sure would be helpful before I start.
Gets pretty warm in Texas.
rferrel1 on April 07, 2014:
I get ambient air temperature bouncing around on 2013 fusion and am told this keeps my A/C compressor from coming in. Sometimes when I start car I get -39 or -40 ambient temp displayed, then it seems to settle in at 50 degrees, which is inaccurate. Any suggestions?
mojo1865 on March 12, 2014:
Ray, I'm interested in having you replace the evap sensor on my '12 Fusion. Is this problem common on late model Fusions? The dealer is saying I need to replace 6E5Z19C734BA. How can I get in contact with you? I am in Kendall, btw. Thanks, Tony
Maurice on March 01, 2014:
Ray can I call you and ask you a few questions about the removal of some parts on my 2008 fusion, and would you be interested in some side Jobs on my ford vehicles.... 97 F-150, and 2004 expedition ?
Tmast on February 18, 2014:
Johnny808, I would just take it in and have Ford or a Good shop diagnose the problem, shouldn't cost too much. Then decide what to too.
So last week my AC compressor stopped coming on again... And rarely when it does the AC is not very cold at all. Twice this sensor has been replaced. Now it will have to be a 3rd time. I ordered the BWD WT5599 sensor and I will be installing it myself, even though I have warranty. I am so fed up with this issue and Ford's "quality" . I'm going to try this one more time then the car will be traded in if this ones fails.
Could something in the AC cause the sensor to fail? Too much voltage? Otherwise Ford has a serious defect problem with these sensors right now. Serves them right. I wonder if there are thousands of Fusions getting defective sensors. There have been 1.6 million Fusions sold since 2006.
Johnny808 on February 08, 2014:
My wife's A/C just stopped working on her 2007 ford fusion today with 78000 miles. I checked and the pump clutch is not engaging at all she said the A/C was making noise a few weeks ago. How can I tell if it's the a/c compressor pump / clutch or if it's the sensor under the dash I don't want to replace the sensor with all that work if it's the pump or clutch.
Tmast on January 18, 2014:
I bought a 2011 Fusion SE weeks ago and found out the AC compressor wasn't turning on when I got it home. It is under warranty and was replaced.(26k miles) A few days later the sensor went out again. The dealer had to replace it again! They said it was defective.
I had a lot of trouble with the Ford dealer as they threw the interior back together very poorly; weather stripping not in right, left clips and screws loose, and even broke the SYNC connector inside the console. To top if off they scratched the cluster lens. I had to make a list of about 10 things they didn't do right. I just couldn't believe that they would do such a poor job, that my car was in worse condition when I picked it up than when I dropped it off. I should have inspected everything before I drove it home, but it was dark already. Lesson learned for the future! They next day I took it back.
They tried to deny most of it, but were willing to replace the damaged parts at no cost. The time on the worksheet said 2.70 hours for the labor, but the tech that did this, must have done it in less then an hour. This would have never happened if the car was a brand new Lincoln.
I decided not to let them touch my car again, and just picked up the parts myself. I spent over 3 hours correcting their work, and even aligning the dash were it was from the factory and torqueing all the bolts to spec. Before when I was talking to them, the shop foreman came out and said we don't torque the steering column bolt, how do you get a torque wrench in there? I said 1 foot extension with a 1/4" torque wrench down to the floor. LOL. Very sad...
I should have just replaced the sensor myself and saved the 3 trips to the Dealer and all the hassle. I will not be taking my fusion back to that Ford dealer ever again. I am still shaking my head when I think about it.
I see BWD makes a sensor, part number: WT5599. I wonder if it will last longer then the Motorcraft? Ford really needs to make a fix so they don't go bad so fast. If this sensor goes out again before the summer I am going to replaced it and then sell my Fusion. I'm not going to be stranded in 100 degree weather out of town here in Texas. This whole experience has been horrible, and I just got the car!
RayTheWrench (author) on December 14, 2013:
Not a chance Ford will pay one cent.
Des O'Dwyer on December 13, 2013:
Left my 2011 Fusion, 44k, with dealer sensor faulty.Ipaid $118 for diagnostic test,I declined repairs @ $850
Anyone successful getting Ford to pay?
Chris on August 17, 2013:
I own a 2006 Zepher. Is it all the same?
RayTheWrench (author) on August 13, 2013:
Sahne u left something unpluged. The shifter wont move becuse the shift lock solenoid has no power
Nsci on August 09, 2013:
Thanks to all. Our AC stopped working, the compressor wouldn't turn on at all. I read this forum and decided to give it a try. The sensor in the EVAP is the YH1662, bought it on amazon for $12. 4 hours and my wife's car is fixed. I really appreciate resources of this type....thanks to all that contributed.
EdmundAG on August 07, 2013:
Followed all instructions and diagrams. Took about 5-6 hours but it worked. One of the hardest parts was trying to release the dash cover of the passenger side airbag, specifically the tabs to the rear, or facing the front of car. However, got it off and AC is working just fine! Thanks Ray and the rest!!
Shane on August 06, 2013:
Did all of the steps now my car won't start and go out of park. Any ideas?
Jeremy Rogers on July 14, 2013:
I just replaced this sensor and worked for about an hour then stopped working again
RayTheWrench (author) on July 11, 2013:
yes that's a good price for this job
Djcoz2013 on July 11, 2013:
Hi seems like I have the same problem today. My ac is cold for 2 seconds then warm for 18 seconds. This cycle continues for my entire commute home today (45 mins) this thread is very informative and as I was at the mechanics I brought this up and he was convinced it was the same thing. I'm not that great doing at home car repairs - they are asking $338 and my vehicle (09 fusion) out the door for this repair. Do you think this is a good price?
RayTheWrench (author) on July 10, 2013:
Labrena probably never again the sensor has been updated.
Frank & Edmund I wouldn't cut a hole for that you have to got in the top of dash. You wont see it another place.
RayTheWrench (author) on July 10, 2013:
I wouldn't be hard wiring anything your only asking for trouble
Json on July 05, 2013:
I need to hardwire mine to check the compressor but don't know how. Is there pic/diagram anywhere for a reference?
EdmundAG on June 30, 2013:
I thought about the same the thing. Cut a hole in the dash compartment. Can sensor be reached this way?
frank on June 29, 2013:
if I cut a hole in the compartment on top of the dash of my 2006 Ford Fusion SEL could I reach the sensor and replace it?
La'Brena on June 25, 2013:
Hey, Ray. After getting the a/ c temp relay replaced, how long do you think it will last before it has to be replaced again?
Jeremy on June 23, 2013:
I wouldn't think so. The fan comes on with the a/c not the opposite. I'd prolly hard wire it just turn it off every few min so it doesn't freeze up then have it checked out when u get home.
Craig on June 22, 2013:
I replaced the temp sensor today on my 07 Milan. The compressor still won't kick on. I am at a loss. I can hard wire the compressor and it works. Do you have any other suggestions for me? I am leaving tonight with no air conditioning to drive on vacation with my wife and 1 year old. I talked with a mechanic at Ford and he said that should fix it. Would it make a difference to change a cooling fan?
Jeremy on June 22, 2013:
I just done our 08 fusion.. Total time 2.5 hours and the parts was $30.00 at a ford dealership
Mauricio on June 19, 2013:
I want to share to everyone a few pictures of the Evap Discharge Sensor and a little video that I've made when I was changing it. Thanks Ray for your post, now I have my A/C working just fine! Regards.
mabellyhf on June 19, 2013:
Ray, from what I've read here it seems my Fusion has this problem. Are you personally repairing cars at the moment? Id like to contact you for a quote to get this fixed. I live in Miami and I believe it would be worth the drive.
justin on June 05, 2013:
Hello.. I have a 2011 Fusion Hybrid and the sensor went out. 43338 miles on it. Dealer wants to charge $1000, the part is $24.18. Is this sensor in the same place as the older models? If anyone has diagrams or instructions.. can you point me in that direction?
t-howard on May 29, 2013:
Thanks for the vast amount of information, I was able to change out the sensor fairly quickly. Upon completion I have a normal working AC and works correctly; however, I have noticed an issue with the initial "turning on of the AC" This 08 Fusion has Automatic Climate Control and seems not to want to kick anything on for a long period of time, almost like there is a massive delay. If you Hit the off button then turn it back on to the settings you like, it does come on. I don't recall this delay before, but when it is on the AC seems to function correctly. I haven't been in the car enough yet to see if the Climate Control "throttles" back the fan once X temp is reached but will post those results. Any ideas??
Again I can't thank you enough for the efforts in posting this!!
Keith on May 10, 2013:
A leak and not the component that's been discussed here?
I'm guessing the evaporator core will be a much more expensive item and even harder, and costlier, to replace. If so I'll likely just manage without cooling because summers in the UK are never very hot or long, unlike AZ where I have a 1 ton Chevvy dually and where a/c is vital!
I'll arrange for a free check at our local Halfords auto parts store and ask them to check for a leak rather than just refilling the unit and charging me.
RayTheWrench (author) on May 05, 2013:
Keith you have a leak and in that car its most likely the evaporator core.
Jason on May 04, 2013:
Just did this today took about 4 hrs, but wasn't too bad. Could they have put that sensor in a harder to get place than that?! Sheesh.
Keith on May 04, 2013:
When I'm not in AZ during the winter, I live in the UK where I have a 2007 Mazda 2, similar to the UK Ford Fusion.
I found this great thread when searching for an answer to my a/c problem. Last May my a/c wouldn't blow cold air and I had a refrigerant refill by the Mazda dealer - that worked. This Spring after we arrived home I have the same problem - no a/c. I've checked and the fuses and relay are OK.
Is my car likely to have similar components to those in the North American version and hence maybe the same problem? Labor charges in the UK are generally WAY higher than in the US (with 20% service tax!) so I'm hoping I can avoid a workshop job.
Mauricio on April 22, 2013:
@rkreps0: Is in the center
Mauricio on April 22, 2013:
Thanks Ray with your info. I just finish change that sensor under the dash and the a/c works. I did not make an evacuation & recharge, but is that necessary?. I took some pictures and make a little video of me doing the job, in a few days I'm gonna share, It took me 6-7 hrs but I was cleaning all the things before put it back again. Thank you so much again I hope that solved my problem. Greetings from Guadalajara Mexico.Thanks Ray
rkreps0 on April 15, 2013:
where is the evap case in the dash; center, left right?
Mauricio on April 01, 2013:
Thanks Ray I'm gonna change the Evap Sensor 1st, and later gonna tell you how that went. Regards
RayTheWrench (author) on March 27, 2013:
probably updated part
RayTheWrench (author) on March 27, 2013:
It will not be blower motor, resistor or the panel. It can be any of the other but i would bet its this sensor. i have change at least 100 of these now
RayTheWrench (author) on March 27, 2013:
Allison this is what you need.
Mauricio on March 25, 2013:
I’ve a 06 Ford Fusion SEL V6 and I have been reading several issues with the A/C system in the fusions 06-07 but I will describe my particular problem, when I turn on my A/C sometimes works fine, sometimes I’ll turn on the A/C and the compressor engages but after 5 or 10 secs it disengages and blows only air and then after other 5-10 secs engages again and so, other times it doesn’t engages at all and only blows warm air.
I know that the Evap. Discharge Air Temp Sensor causes problems but I also read that it could be other things like the AC pressure Switch, the compressor cycling switch, the blower motor, the blower resistor, the clutch air gap and even the Climate control panel.
I want to start from the most basic solution to the most expensive-complicated. Where do I start? Thanks.
Mauricio on March 25, 2013:
someone knows what's the difference between the motorcraft part YH1663 and YH1662?
Allison on November 29, 2012:
I had pep boys look at mine and they say there's something wrong with the computer, it's not sending the signal to make the compressor kick on, or maybe they aren't aware of the problem on this forum? The ac is blowing but it's not coming out cold, I live in south Florida maybe you can help? If you have an email I would like to email you directly.
Mike on November 06, 2012:
@Jorja, Did removing the windshield really work for you?
Dave on October 15, 2012:
Is it possible to cut a hole in the little compartment on top of the dash to get to this component?
jorja on September 25, 2012:
Taking the windshield out is MUCH easier! Pop the defroster vents out and BAM....needle nose pliers and 15 minutes...you have a changed sensor.
Rudy on July 23, 2012:
This post has been extremely helpful. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with an A/C system that went out on me at the end of last summer. With the symptoms that were posted on this board, I was able to determine that this sensor was the cause of my problem. Fortunately, I used to work for Ford Motor Company for over 12 years and I have quite a bit of experience assembling and disassembling the interior and exterior components on their products. I replaced my sensor today and my A/C works wonderfully!!!!!!! I did find it unnecessary to remove the steering column and steering wheel. I removed the four nuts that hold the steering column in place and laid the steering wheel down in the front seat of the vehicle. I was careful in backing out the IP (instrument panel) and had to lift the steering yoke so the IP could clear it when backing it out, but it went back together with no issues and their was nothing to realign. I also removed the nuts that secured the shifter to the floor pan in order to give me more room to move the IP in a position as to not damage my A/C controls or stereo.
I am extremely glad that this post exists, although I do not work for Ford Motor Company any more, my experience building vehicles for them proved to be extremely valuable in taking on this project. I do not recommend taking on this project if you don't know what you are doing. It is too easy to break trim panels and hard shells for wires if you are not familiar on how to properly remove them. Haynes Repair Manual has a good section on how to properly remove an IP and I would suggest that anyone that wants to tackle this project, go get one before they start. Thank you Ray for providing us with this wonderful forum!!!!!
Robert on July 20, 2012:
Thanks so much Ray and everyone replying to this! I'm in Canada and first took it to my local service center who after one hour could not fix it (because they don't have the needed diagnostics) and told me I would have to take it to Ford for service (cost $60) then Ford took all day to look at (cost $100) and quoted me $26 for the part, which they don't have, and over $1,000 for 8 hours to repair! No way am I paying these crooks!
Joey on July 17, 2012:
Hey Ray, does a ford fusion with manual climiate control have one of these sensors. My wifes fusion is short cycling and i have had the pressures checked and everything is right . Im lost and dont know which direction to go to fix it. I was hoping the sensor was the problem but didn't wanna buy one and tear the dash out if it didn't have one in it because it was manual climate control
hellnback on July 13, 2012:
thanks ray , and fred u guys jus saved me $700. the hardest part for me was unplugging the sensor as it was hard to see and reach at the same time.. anyone else attempting this be sure to tie the steering wheel in place as fred says. thx again
haley on June 28, 2012:
How can i tell if it is my sensor or my compresor?
fred2446 on May 22, 2012:
Hello everyone I just completed this project (against my better judgement) and now have air conditioning working again. My sensor was bad and I could tell by looking at it there was a problem. I will tell you from lessons learned from the above steps what you do not have to do, if you don't want to pull the whole dash out and save a little time.
Note: If you have a power seat first move it forward and take out center console screws in back seat area first, then move the driver seat and passenger seat all the way forward. The rest of my notes coincide with the numbered steps above.
1. just disconnect battery
2. remove center console (here is a good link showing this (http://www.fordfusionclub.com/index.php?topic=1525... When you get to removing shifter don't disconnect cable just unbolt, take connector off and set the unit in passenger floor area. additionally there are two bolts in the center to remove and two bolts(covered by a round trim piece the size of a quarter) on the front left and right to take out. Then you can pull the whole thing out.
3. These side panels give you access to 2-dashbolts on leftside and one dashbolt on right side.
4. Only remove weatherstripping that comes in contact with dashboard and atrim area only, no need to remove the whole thing by far.
5. these just pryoff with your hands all the way off.
6. only pull partially back, do not have to take all the way off. just so you can get to bottom dash screws on left and right side.
7. right behind the right cowl you partially pulled back.
8. skip it, don't need to do this unless you are taking dash out completely.
9. skip it, don't need to do this unless you are taking dash out completely.
10. skip it, don't need to do this unless you are taking dash out completely.
11. DO THIS PROCEDURE LAST
12. This would be top half of trim setting over steering wheel and the next piece that connect directly in front of this piece. This gives you access to the next step.
13. remove as stated the dash console and connector, then you can now see the other 2 dash bolts that need to be removed. no other bolts exist.
here are my next steps
14. need some nylon ties long 2 about 18 inches or so to tie/secure steering wheel from moving. I did not have long enough ones, so just connected three together to make it longer. Do this twice on both side of steering wheel so there is no way it can move and make sure the ties are secured to dashboard and steering wheel is set with front wheels pointing straight forward. If you don't do this the steering wheel will freely turn once you remove pinch bolt and cause you another problem that would make this project your worst nightmare.
15. now you can do step 11. and remove steering shaft pinch bolt. It tells you to mark it but you don't have two if the steering wheel is secured. one you get pinch bolt out just lift shaft off and let it lay on floor. you don't have to take it a part from other shaft. I have retractable steering column and when I did this I had my steering column fully extended and locked in position to give me more flexabilty when taking shaft off pinch bolt shaft.
16. AT this point I pull dash forward (by myself) far enough to get bulkhead connector off behind dashboard instrument panel area. You will see the dash won't go forward anymore until you remove this connector.
17. Before you go to much further, with dashboard pull out far enough for you to get at temp sensor, stop and look through front window where sensor is and how it is installed before you pull out old sensor. remember it only goes in one way and out the same. removing 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
took me 5 hours start to finish.
have fun lol
Dirk on May 21, 2012:
This was my issue as well and the solution above is spot-on. Overall The instructions were very good. It took me 5 hours but if I did this again I think I could do it in 2-3 hours. The quotes I got from 4 separate Ford dealers was $650-$1100. My contribution and thanks result in adding some helpful info on removing the console. You will be removing a total of 8 screws. You will need a 7mm and 8mm socket, ratchet with extender, Socket driver a pry bar (or flathead screwdriver) I still had battery connected because I needed the seat moved forward/back (power seat) and needed to move the gear shifter to 3. First: Take the two screws (one on each side) of the console accessible from the back seat after moving the two front seats forward. Take the chrome piece around the shifter off by prying upward. Then take the cupholder section out by raising the armrest and prying upward. Next take out the small section that has the power interface and disconnect the power by depressing a clip. Locate and remove the two screws underneath the power interface that screw in horizontal position to the dash. Using a small screwdriver, take off the screw covers ( one on each side) close to the radio and remove the screws. Next remove the two screws close to the shifter. Next turn on your key and shift the shifter into 3. Next disconnect the power and audio interface wires connect ed to armrest/CD holder. The audio interface wire is easy because you just squeeze the clasp and pull but the power interface I had to use a small screwdriver to depress the clasp/clip that secures them together. You are now ready to remove the console. Slide it towards the back seat away from the dash until the crossbar at the front clears the dash. It will take some wiggling and twisting to get it around the brake handle. I did not actually remove the console from the car but instead just stood it up vertically with the back resting on the hump in the backseat floor.
Chris on May 20, 2012:
Got the job done and it DID fix the issue. Thanks for starting this thread Ray. I found some other sites indicating the ACET sensor might be the issue, but your post and the comments really helped me realized the depth of the sensor failure on these vehicles. I will post some pictures and procedures I took note of soon. Thanks everyone for your feedback!
Chris on May 19, 2012:
Having this issue with my 2006 Fusion. Compressor short-cycles so it doesn't cool efficiently. I've already replaced the binary switch and had the system evacuated and recharged to spec, so I'm fairly certain it isn't a pressure issue. Really wish I had access to a scan tool that can read BCM (body control module) codes to ensure this is the issue before going through this - but I'm 99% sure this is the culprit. I'll let you know how things go. Again Ford Motocraft part #YH-1662.
carlos sierra on May 17, 2012:
thanks a lot for all your posts, i have the same problem on a Ford Fusion 2007 here at Mexico, the compressor kicks on and off every 20 seconds.. i already purchased both sensors YH1663 and YH1662 from Amazon, 29 dlls free shiping for both sensors.. one friend will install them and i'll let you know the result maybe 2 more weeks, thanks again..
gbeckhart on April 04, 2012:
Same problem 2007 Ford Fusion.
Do you know if the Evap Temp Sensor can be reached by taking out passenger side airbag off instrument panel (dash board)?
Grant on February 28, 2012:
Once you get there, to the evaporator, it will be helpful to have someone around with a small forearm to reach into it and change the sensor.
Unfortunately my problem turned out to be the compressor but at least I got familiar with taking out the dash on this car.
Lastly...I'm tired of Ford. I just traded in the Fusion for a new Nissan.
Grant on February 16, 2012:
Do you recommend replacing YH1663 first to see if it fixes the A/C. It's much easier to get to than YH1662.
Wilton Ferreira on November 29, 2011:
Hi. I am from Brazil and I don´t find any site/seller that ship to Brazil. Do you known any one that ship to Brazil? I have International Credit Card or Paypal. Thanks all!!!
Jon on November 07, 2011:
Ed. Sorry this is a little late. I used a scan tool before changing the sensor out. The scan told me the car thought my air was blowing at negative 40 C. I changed out the sensor and it has worked perfect ever since
RayTheWrench (author) on October 15, 2011:
tlkamen as them if there is power at your compressor?
jmugg on October 08, 2011:
Great info. Saved me a bunch of money. Took a little over three hours to complete. One little note, make sure to push yoke on steering column all the way in before moving the dash. Had to spend an extra fifteen minutes realigning the steering wheel when it slid off the end during removal of the dash.
tlkamen on September 24, 2011:
I have a 2007 Ford Fusion and the a/c isn't working. The compressor isn't kicking in. I went to a local shop and they told me that the compressor is all banged up because the car has 120, 000 miles on it and said I need to replace the compressor, fluids & filters to the amount of $1100, could this be possible??? I need help!
wayne chandler on September 19, 2011:
someone asked the question if the sensor is only in cars with automatic climate control.mitchell`s diagrams only shows it in these models. not manual temperature control.
RayTheWrench (author) on September 15, 2011:
Ed first you need to check for power at compressor. Then check for the ground signal at the relay when a/c is turned on. If there is no ground at relay then pcm is not telling the relay to fire which means that stuoid sensor is your problem and don't be scared its easy to do.