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Ford Fusion A/C Compressor Won't Turn On

Updated on June 22, 2015

Joined: 7 years agoFollowers: 14Articles: 4

Air Conditioning (A/C) Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor

Ford Fusion owners: Beware if your A/C has stopped working!

Ford had a genius idea to install a sensor in the top of the evaporator case. What does this mean to the owners of the Fusion? I should start by saying there are many reasons why your car's A/C can stop working. But on the Fusion, if the A/C compressor is not turning on, you will need to change the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor.

The sensor tells the computer what the air's temperature is at the exit point of the evaporator. When it senses that it's cold, it turns off the compressor. Otherwise, the system would freeze.

Well, sometimes these sensors short out and will not allow compressor operation. Ford is well aware that the sensors are faulty. So I suggest that if your Fusion has low miles and is out of warranty, you contact Ford and demand they repair it.

I have changed the sensor on cars as low as 22,000 miles (but it was over three years old). The problem is that you must remove the entire dashboard to change this part and there is no way around it.

The total labor for this job is 6.7 hrs, and the part costs $17.49. Depending on your area, the average price for the job would be around $600 + tax. I do it for $500 out the door. I have heard of people paying in excess of $800! If you are the do-it-yourself kind of person, I will attach the instructions on changing the sensor yourself below.

  1. Remove the instrument panel.
  2. Detach the A/C evaporator discharge air temperature sensor.
  3. Disconnect the sensor's electrical connector.
  4. Remove the sensor.
  5. To install, reverse the removal procedure.


Removal and Installation

CAUTION: Electronic modules are sensitive to static electrical charges. If exposed to these charges, damage may result.

  1. Depower the supplemental restraint system (SRS).
  2. Remove the floor console.
  3. Remove the LH and RH instrument panel end trim panels.
  4. Remove the weather striping from the front door openings near the instrument panel.
  5. Remove the A-pillar trim panels.
  6. Remove the RH and LH cowl kick panels.
  7. From behind the LH kick panel, disconnect the two electrical connectors.

8. From behind the RH kick panel, disconnect the bulkhead electrical connector and the antenna lead-in cable.

CAUTION: To avoid damage to the bulkhead electrical connector, be sure the release handle is in the full UPWARD position before disconnecting the electrical connector.

9. From underneath the glove box, disconnect the three A/C electrical connectors.

10. Disconnect the electrical connector and retainer located on the floor between the two front seats.

11. NOTE: To make sure of proper location during installation, index-mark the position of the steering column shaft before removing the pinch bolt. Remove the steering column pinch bolt.

12. Remove the instrument cluster finish panel.

13. Remove the instrument cluster.

  • Remove the 2 screws.
  • Remove the instrument cluster.
  • Disconnect the electrical connector.

1. Remove the two instrument panel center brace bolts.

  • To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).

2. From through the instrument cluster opening, remove the two instrument cluster opening bolts.

  • To install, tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).

3. Remove the two instrument panel lower bolts.

  • To install, tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb-in).

4. Remove the instrument panel. CAUTION: To avoid damage to the instrument panel, this next step requires the help of an assistant.

  • Remove the three instrument panel cowl side upper bolts.
  • To install, tighten to 23 Nm (17 lb-ft).

CAUTION: To avoid an improper connection at the bulkhead electrical connector, be sure to position the connector for installation then push the release handle to the full DOWNWARD position until it clicks. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

  • Repower the SRS.


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    • teetime 6 years ago

      My 2007 fusion with 30k miles was just diagnosed with this. If you are nearby I would like to talk with you about repairing this. Where are you located?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      That's funny the last one I did had 22,000 miles and was out of warranty. I'm in South Florida. Where are you?

    • Steve 6 years ago

      What is the part number for this? Do I have to go to the dealer to get it or it available at most auto part outlets?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      Part # is 6E5Z*19C734*BA and is dealer item only. I paid $12.54 but I have a wholesale account. It should cost you $17.54

    • Chris 6 years ago

      Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!! I just finished changing the sensor based on your instructions. Not only did it take just 4 hours, but I saved $800 dollars in labor the Ford dealership originally quoted me! Thanks again!!!

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      Your welcome Chris!

    • Gefforyt profile image

      Gefforyt 6 years ago

      Very informative. I would think ford would take care of this issue, but as long as they can make a buck, I doubt they will bother. we are an import shop so we don't see many fusions, but we are seeing a similar issue with the volkswagen

    • Steve 6 years ago

      Thank you very much!!! This was it. It did take about 4-5 hours total, but at the same time it was the first time that I took the center councel and dash apart on this vehicle. Actually, I just snaked my arm through the top storage bin area (that I pulled out) as the dash was tilted back about 8-10 inches. It was very easy and straight-forward. My only hang-ups where where I wasn't sure if I should just tug on a panel because I wasn't always sure if I would be tearing the plastic away from a screw holding it in place. All of the panels went back on nicely and I only have one random screw left over. Which looks like one that may have just went into the trim somewhere. Again, thanks! I saved myself a lot of $$$.

    • george 6 years ago

      I have a 2007 Fusion that has 22,000 miles also....My A/C quit. Problem was the dryer which is inside the evaporator blew apart and sent little bb particles throughout the lines.

    • george 6 years ago

      Did not finish my post....After fixing the dryer the mechanic found that the compressor was kicking off and on. Problem was the "under dash" sensor....Whole job cost me $1058. The dealer here in Mobile said it charges $1900 in and out the door. No wonder Ford didn't have to borrow any money for a

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      Steve I did the exact same thing snaked my arm in there.And you actually don't have to take all these items apart to get in there. I just wanted to give the full explanation on how it's done. There are alot of short cuts that can be done to get this job done in about 2 1/2 hrs. I will make a video on my next one.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      George and your mechanic was wrong on that drier. First it's an accumulator and is located no where near the evaporator.He had no compressor operation and thats the only reason the switch would need changed. And he's ripping you off so find a new mechanic. LOL I can do this whole job for $500 out the door and make myself a killing.

    • Ninefingers 6 years ago

      Have my car at the dealer right now. I'm afraid this is going to be my problem and, if it is, I'm doubting my extended warranty will cover it. I'm hoping its a mechanical problem, though. My wife said she heard hissing under the center of the dash before the A/C stopped working.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      The Hissing she heard was the a/c system depressurizing. But this item is covered under all extended warranty policies don't let them get over on you.

    • ocon0314 6 years ago

      I just read your post i'm having this problem right now. Where exactly in south fl are you located?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      Boca Raton

    • John_the_Griller 6 years ago

      My 2007 fusion was diagnosed with the same failure, but since I work for a company in Mexico that produce and supply the outer rear view mirror to the Ford assembly plant where the Fusion is built I have some contacts there that provide me with a brand new sensor so I will try to do the replacement by my self following your instructions that by the way are very detailed, I just have one question, How I can depower the supplemental restraint system (SRS), what is the SRS is a connector or is something else inside the fuses box, please explain the procedure that I need to follow to do this. Thanks again

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 6 years ago

      Just disconnect the battery John

    • WInston 5 years ago

      HI Ray i need to get the same sensor changed, how can we get in contact so you can fix my car

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      Winston I am In South Florida where are you located?

    • Justin 5 years ago

      I have a 2006 Ford Fusion with 86K miles. The A/C isn't blowing cold. The check engine light is on. Giving two codes P0446 and P0452. Would that have anything to do with it? Do you think this is my problem.

    • Paul 5 years ago


      How do I take just the center dash apart to enable me to snake my arm in? Do you have abbreviated instructions for that process, by-chance?

      Ray, did you have a chance to make that video yet?

      Thanks a ton!

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      Paul the dash will lay forward towards the seats and your arm will be able to get down the back of dash at the windshield side. You must take out all the bolts in this description. This whole job will take you 4 to 5 hrs. I'm doing them in around 3 now. But the whole dash will not need to come out of the vehicle.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      Justin code PO452 is Evaporative Emissions System Pressure Sensor/Switch Low. if you want I can post how to fix that. But it will not leave you broke down. PO446 is Evaporavtive Emissions System Vent Control Circuit. What both codes are fuel fuel vapor from tank neither will leave you stranded but will make you fail inspection in some states.

    • Cash 5 years ago

      Hey ray have you made the video yet i am interest on how to snake your arm in the back do you have to remove the center upper glove compartment on the top of the dash?

      I have a 2008 fusion ac just stopped working and the compressor is not kicking on at all thinking of replacing this part first at 18 bucks just want to see it done if i can before i try it.


    • Steve 5 years ago

      Cash, I did the entire job on a Wednesday night after work. It did take me about 5 to 6 hours, but it is not over your head. I did take my driver and passenger seats out to give me more room (just make sure that you don't scratch anything when you pull them out. The whole thing was a lot easier than what I was preparing myself for. Although, I didn't break any speed records while doing it either. Also, once the dash is in the position to be pulled back a little, that is when I pulled that upper glove compartment off and reached through that opening to get at that sensor. You almost need to look through the windshield above the car to see where you are reaching before you reach in there to get at it.

    • bridic 5 years ago

      Thanks for the info sounds easy enough. Wouldn't mind seeing a video either just to make double sure nothing gets broken. I am looking for the replacement part now and hope to tackle this thing in the next few weeks.

    • Jon 5 years ago

      My a/c compressor will run for approx. 20 seconds at a time before turning off. I had the expansion valve replaced and that did not help. Would the sensor cause this problem?

    • Ian  5 years ago

      Ray im about to do this job do you by chance know the Ohms reading for a good sensor and a bad sensor so i can test it before buying a new one Thx.

    • Bridic 5 years ago

      Ian, I replaced my sensor and you don't need an ohm meter as I could visually tell the sensor was bad. For $20, it is worth picking up the sensor, since the dash will be apart anyway.

    • Ian  5 years ago

      Thx Bridic for the reply i tried hotwiring the sensor on the low pressure side and no clutch. But when i hotwire the clutch relay it comes on so i guess i will go ahead and try the Discharge Air Temp Sensor next Thx again for the reply Ian.

    • Rick Jones 5 years ago

      Ray, thanks so much for the info. It took me a bit more time to get it done, but it fixed the problem. I had it in a shop and they couldn't fix it prior. With the temp in the low 90's air is good. Again thanks.

    • 2008 ford fusion 2.3L 5 years ago

      Hey I just Change that evaporator sensor the one the is located behind the dash and the a/c works but when I first start the car the compressor doesn't turn on right away I takes like 5 minutes and then the compressor engages I did not vacuum the sistem you think the I need to vacuum and recharge the sistem that can be the problem thanks

    • armando 5 years ago

      hi i have a 2007 fusion and the ac is only blowing when im on the highway if i am stoped nothing will come out from the vents what do you thinks is happening

    • 2008 ford fusion 2.3l 5 years ago

      I got food News for all ya fusion owners RAY was right I vacuum and recharge my a/c and after I change the sensor and I got my a/c back the only step the I skip was the bolt of the steering shaft and the seats thank you very much RAY ohhh and the cute for the dealership was $550 aprox

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      Sorry all you guys I've been a little busy with work so haven't came on here.You are all welcome and any info you need on any cars just email me.

    • jesse 5 years ago

      just wondering what the ohm reading on the eva sensor will be so i can tell if it is bad

    • Jon 5 years ago

      Thank you for posting the instructions(mainly bolt locations). This allowed me to do it in an hour with help. We did just slide the dash back after unbolting. Feels great to have a/c again

    • Judge 5 years ago

      Thanks for the details. I have a question, after reinstalling, my steering is off. I missed the index by a tooth or two on the shaft.

      Any way to remedy this without a complete tear down?

    • bk140524 5 years ago

      just completed the steps on my own and finally have a/c again. u guys r life savers after a $800 quote from ford, the only problem that i encountered was a remaining spring and a white plastic piece it seems to attach to, have no idea where it belongs, any advice would be greatly appreciated

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      your welcome John

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      judge you can just remove the steering knuckle at the bottom of steering wheel and move it 2 teeth or you can get a wheel alignment but i suggest you rmove the lower steering shaft.

    • fashion 5 years ago

      informative article.

    • Skip 5 years ago

      Just paid the $850.00 to have my 2006 Milan repaired. If it goes again I'll replace it myself with

      these great instructions!!

    • Steve 5 years ago

      Ray I want to thank you for all your information. My 07 Fusion's A/C stopped working on the way home from vacation. The Ford dealer wanted 170.00 to just look at it!!!! After reading all your information I tried it myself. The only issues I ran into was not moving the power seat to get to the rear bolt on the center console and instrument cluster finish panel was a pain to get out. The sensor was 22.50 from the local Ford dealer. Your instructions were perfect. Thanks again and great advice!!! MSN used car review also flags this part.

    • Dan 5 years ago

      I followed your instructions and now my wife is very happy again. I'm not going to lie it took me long than 6 hours to do the project, but it was ungodly hot today and I had to make two trip to the dealership because they gave me the wrong sensor the first time. Here in MN the sensor cost me just shy of $25 but they were in stock. Thank You Ray now I get my 07 F-350 Lariat Outlaw back from my wife.

    • Brian Esterly profile image

      Brian Esterly 5 years ago from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

      Just finished myself thank you very much. one point to anyone about to do this, the sensor requires about a 45 degree turn counter clockwise to remove.

      Only problem i have is that now i have an airbag light on. any ideas??

    • Brian Esterly profile image

      Brian Esterly 5 years ago from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

      airbag light is gone now that i reinstalled the radio that i had left out in order to pull the stuck cds out of!

    • teresa wenisch 5 years ago

      son bought a 2010 ford fusion hybrid. He cannot get the electrical motor of the car to kick in. He needs a relay located in the front fuse box attached to the radiator reinforcement. He has gone to several dealerships to get a part number for the 3 prong relay, with no luck. Is there someone out there with this same car who could look at their fuse box and give him a part number or amps needed. The relay is a square about 1 inch X 1 inch the largest relay in the fuse box in position 7 and a solid state relay.E-mail address if someone knows the part number or can help. Thanks,

    • Melissa 5 years ago

      OK I finally bought the part after my second summer of no a/c. I just didn't have the money to pay for a mechanic to fix this....

      I'm going to try it this weekend with my hubby...we can do this :) I'm not scared!

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      I'm glad I could help you all.

    • Devin 5 years ago

      Is Ford aware of this yet and footing the bill for it or should I just do it myself?

    • Rigo 5 years ago

      It worked!! Took me about 3 hours to finish the job. Thanks for the saved me a lot of money. :-D

    • Jonathan 5 years ago

      Ray, I have a 2009 Fusion SEL is the configuration the same with this model as well? I've checked the pressures and they were fine, and the AC unit does not appear to be damaged in any way so I am thinking it is the sensor as well. and do you have that video yet :)

    • RibEye3 5 years ago

      Is the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor only on vehicles with the climate control or is this on ALL Fusions? Thanks!

    • dpdrum 5 years ago

      How can I be sure that the switch is bad, before I remove the dash (almost) and change the switch. Are there other things I should check first?

    • dpdrum 5 years ago

      Also, will the refrigerant need to be removed to replace this switch? I thought I read that earlier?

    • Will 5 years ago

      I was able to use a tooth pic to close the relay for the ac/clutch in the engine fuse box. The air blows cold now like it did before. I was wondering if this would narrow down the problem to being a faulty evaporator temperature sensor and is there any way that leaving it like this would work temporarily. If so would settings for the the air would make it work without freeze up or damaging other components.. I plan on fixing just dont have time right now and need to buy some time. Some air is better than none..

    • dpdrum 5 years ago

      Will, did you drill a hole in the side of the relay to do this? If so, which side? Beside of pin 4 to push the relay contact into pin 5? This might help me isolate the problem.

    • Ed 5 years ago

      I have the same problem Jon was having. The ac on my 2007 MKZ is cooling, but the compressor is cycling on and off about every 20 seconds--so it is not staying on long enough to cool the car adequately. I've already paid the dealer over $300 to recharge and check the system--so I feel pretty certain the cycling is not a freon issue. Could this sensor be the problem? Jon, if you're still around, did changing the sensor fix your cycling issue?

    • Ed 5 years ago

      Re: My post 15 minutes ago: Ray, this is very helpful forum! Thanks for taking time to help us with shortcuts and diagrams. I may be about to head down this road, I'm afraid. Do you know if the sensor being discussed here is the same as the "Ambient Air Temperature Sensor" (Motorcraft YH1662) supposedly located in the evaporator case of a 2007 MKZ (like mine)? Could that cause the compressor to cycle?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      dpdrum I do not recommend jumping the relay that will make the compressor run all the time. And after time the ac clucth will burn up.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      Ed first you need to check for power at compressor. Then check for the ground signal at the relay when a/c is turned on. If there is no ground at relay then pcm is not telling the relay to fire which means that stuoid sensor is your problem and don't be scared its easy to do.

    • wayne chandler 5 years ago

      someone asked the question if the sensor is only in cars with automatic climate control.mitchell`s diagrams only shows it in these models. not manual temperature control.

    • tlkamen 5 years ago

      I have a 2007 Ford Fusion and the a/c isn't working. The compressor isn't kicking in. I went to a local shop and they told me that the compressor is all banged up because the car has 120, 000 miles on it and said I need to replace the compressor, fluids & filters to the amount of $1100, could this be possible??? I need help!

    • jmugg 5 years ago

      Great info. Saved me a bunch of money. Took a little over three hours to complete. One little note, make sure to push yoke on steering column all the way in before moving the dash. Had to spend an extra fifteen minutes realigning the steering wheel when it slid off the end during removal of the dash.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 5 years ago

      tlkamen as them if there is power at your compressor?

    • Jon 5 years ago

      Ed. Sorry this is a little late. I used a scan tool before changing the sensor out. The scan told me the car thought my air was blowing at negative 40 C. I changed out the sensor and it has worked perfect ever since

    • Wilton Ferreira 5 years ago

      Hi. I am from Brazil and I don´t find any site/seller that ship to Brazil. Do you known any one that ship to Brazil? I have International Credit Card or Paypal. Thanks all!!!

    • Grant 4 years ago

      Do you recommend replacing YH1663 first to see if it fixes the A/C. It's much easier to get to than YH1662.

    • Grant 4 years ago

      Once you get there, to the evaporator, it will be helpful to have someone around with a small forearm to reach into it and change the sensor.

      Unfortunately my problem turned out to be the compressor but at least I got familiar with taking out the dash on this car.

      Lastly...I'm tired of Ford. I just traded in the Fusion for a new Nissan.

    • gbeckhart 4 years ago

      Same problem 2007 Ford Fusion.

      Do you know if the Evap Temp Sensor can be reached by taking out passenger side airbag off instrument panel (dash board)?

    • carlos sierra 4 years ago

      thanks a lot for all your posts, i have the same problem on a Ford Fusion 2007 here at Mexico, the compressor kicks on and off every 20 seconds.. i already purchased both sensors YH1663 and YH1662 from Amazon, 29 dlls free shiping for both sensors.. one friend will install them and i'll let you know the result maybe 2 more weeks, thanks again..

    • Chris 4 years ago

      Having this issue with my 2006 Fusion. Compressor short-cycles so it doesn't cool efficiently. I've already replaced the binary switch and had the system evacuated and recharged to spec, so I'm fairly certain it isn't a pressure issue. Really wish I had access to a scan tool that can read BCM (body control module) codes to ensure this is the issue before going through this - but I'm 99% sure this is the culprit. I'll let you know how things go. Again Ford Motocraft part #YH-1662.

    • Chris 4 years ago

      Got the job done and it DID fix the issue. Thanks for starting this thread Ray. I found some other sites indicating the ACET sensor might be the issue, but your post and the comments really helped me realized the depth of the sensor failure on these vehicles. I will post some pictures and procedures I took note of soon. Thanks everyone for your feedback!

    • Dirk 4 years ago

      This was my issue as well and the solution above is spot-on. Overall The instructions were very good. It took me 5 hours but if I did this again I think I could do it in 2-3 hours. The quotes I got from 4 separate Ford dealers was $650-$1100. My contribution and thanks result in adding some helpful info on removing the console. You will be removing a total of 8 screws. You will need a 7mm and 8mm socket, ratchet with extender, Socket driver a pry bar (or flathead screwdriver) I still had battery connected because I needed the seat moved forward/back (power seat) and needed to move the gear shifter to 3. First: Take the two screws (one on each side) of the console accessible from the back seat after moving the two front seats forward. Take the chrome piece around the shifter off by prying upward. Then take the cupholder section out by raising the armrest and prying upward. Next take out the small section that has the power interface and disconnect the power by depressing a clip. Locate and remove the two screws underneath the power interface that screw in horizontal position to the dash. Using a small screwdriver, take off the screw covers ( one on each side) close to the radio and remove the screws. Next remove the two screws close to the shifter. Next turn on your key and shift the shifter into 3. Next disconnect the power and audio interface wires connect ed to armrest/CD holder. The audio interface wire is easy because you just squeeze the clasp and pull but the power interface I had to use a small screwdriver to depress the clasp/clip that secures them together. You are now ready to remove the console. Slide it towards the back seat away from the dash until the crossbar at the front clears the dash. It will take some wiggling and twisting to get it around the brake handle. I did not actually remove the console from the car but instead just stood it up vertically with the back resting on the hump in the backseat floor.

    • fred2446 4 years ago

      Hello everyone I just completed this project (against my better judgement) and now have air conditioning working again. My sensor was bad and I could tell by looking at it there was a problem. I will tell you from lessons learned from the above steps what you do not have to do, if you don't want to pull the whole dash out and save a little time.

      Note: If you have a power seat first move it forward and take out center console screws in back seat area first, then move the driver seat and passenger seat all the way forward. The rest of my notes coincide with the numbered steps above.

      1. just disconnect battery

      2. remove center console (here is a good link showing this ( When you get to removing shifter don't disconnect cable just unbolt, take connector off and set the unit in passenger floor area. additionally there are two bolts in the center to remove and two bolts(covered by a round trim piece the size of a quarter) on the front left and right to take out. Then you can pull the whole thing out.

      3. These side panels give you access to 2-dashbolts on leftside and one dashbolt on right side.

      4. Only remove weatherstripping that comes in contact with dashboard and atrim area only, no need to remove the whole thing by far.

      5. these just pryoff with your hands all the way off.

      6. only pull partially back, do not have to take all the way off. just so you can get to bottom dash screws on left and right side.

      7. right behind the right cowl you partially pulled back.

      8. skip it, don't need to do this unless you are taking dash out completely.

      9. skip it, don't need to do this unless you are taking dash out completely.

      10. skip it, don't need to do this unless you are taking dash out completely.


      12. This would be top half of trim setting over steering wheel and the next piece that connect directly in front of this piece. This gives you access to the next step.

      13. remove as stated the dash console and connector, then you can now see the other 2 dash bolts that need to be removed. no other bolts exist.

      here are my next steps

      14. need some nylon ties long 2 about 18 inches or so to tie/secure steering wheel from moving. I did not have long enough ones, so just connected three together to make it longer. Do this twice on both side of steering wheel so there is no way it can move and make sure the ties are secured to dashboard and steering wheel is set with front wheels pointing straight forward. If you don't do this the steering wheel will freely turn once you remove pinch bolt and cause you another problem that would make this project your worst nightmare.

      15. now you can do step 11. and remove steering shaft pinch bolt. It tells you to mark it but you don't have two if the steering wheel is secured. one you get pinch bolt out just lift shaft off and let it lay on floor. you don't have to take it a part from other shaft. I have retractable steering column and when I did this I had my steering column fully extended and locked in position to give me more flexabilty when taking shaft off pinch bolt shaft.

      16. AT this point I pull dash forward (by myself) far enough to get bulkhead connector off behind dashboard instrument panel area. You will see the dash won't go forward anymore until you remove this connector.

      17. Before you go to much further, with dashboard pull out far enough for you to get at temp sensor, stop and look through front window where sensor is and how it is installed before you pull out old sensor. remember it only goes in one way and out the same. removing 1/4 turn counter clockwise.

      took me 5 hours start to finish.

      have fun lol

    • haley 4 years ago

      How can i tell if it is my sensor or my compresor?

    • hellnback 4 years ago

      thanks ray , and fred u guys jus saved me $700. the hardest part for me was unplugging the sensor as it was hard to see and reach at the same time.. anyone else attempting this be sure to tie the steering wheel in place as fred says. thx again

    • Joey 4 years ago

      Hey Ray, does a ford fusion with manual climiate control have one of these sensors. My wifes fusion is short cycling and i have had the pressures checked and everything is right . Im lost and dont know which direction to go to fix it. I was hoping the sensor was the problem but didn't wanna buy one and tear the dash out if it didn't have one in it because it was manual climate control

    • Robert 4 years ago

      Thanks so much Ray and everyone replying to this! I'm in Canada and first took it to my local service center who after one hour could not fix it (because they don't have the needed diagnostics) and told me I would have to take it to Ford for service (cost $60) then Ford took all day to look at (cost $100) and quoted me $26 for the part, which they don't have, and over $1,000 for 8 hours to repair! No way am I paying these crooks!

    • Rudy 4 years ago

      This post has been extremely helpful. I have a 2007 Ford Fusion with an A/C system that went out on me at the end of last summer. With the symptoms that were posted on this board, I was able to determine that this sensor was the cause of my problem. Fortunately, I used to work for Ford Motor Company for over 12 years and I have quite a bit of experience assembling and disassembling the interior and exterior components on their products. I replaced my sensor today and my A/C works wonderfully!!!!!!! I did find it unnecessary to remove the steering column and steering wheel. I removed the four nuts that hold the steering column in place and laid the steering wheel down in the front seat of the vehicle. I was careful in backing out the IP (instrument panel) and had to lift the steering yoke so the IP could clear it when backing it out, but it went back together with no issues and their was nothing to realign. I also removed the nuts that secured the shifter to the floor pan in order to give me more room to move the IP in a position as to not damage my A/C controls or stereo.

      I am extremely glad that this post exists, although I do not work for Ford Motor Company any more, my experience building vehicles for them proved to be extremely valuable in taking on this project. I do not recommend taking on this project if you don't know what you are doing. It is too easy to break trim panels and hard shells for wires if you are not familiar on how to properly remove them. Haynes Repair Manual has a good section on how to properly remove an IP and I would suggest that anyone that wants to tackle this project, go get one before they start. Thank you Ray for providing us with this wonderful forum!!!!!

    • jorja 4 years ago

      Taking the windshield out is MUCH easier! Pop the defroster vents out and BAM....needle nose pliers and 15 have a changed sensor.

    • Dave 4 years ago

      Is it possible to cut a hole in the little compartment on top of the dash to get to this component?

    • Mike 4 years ago

      @Jorja, Did removing the windshield really work for you?

    • Allison 4 years ago

      I had pep boys look at mine and they say there's something wrong with the computer, it's not sending the signal to make the compressor kick on, or maybe they aren't aware of the problem on this forum? The ac is blowing but it's not coming out cold, I live in south Florida maybe you can help? If you have an email I would like to email you directly.

    • Mauricio 3 years ago

      someone knows what's the difference between the motorcraft part YH1663 and YH1662?

    • Mauricio 3 years ago

      I’ve a 06 Ford Fusion SEL V6 and I have been reading several issues with the A/C system in the fusions 06-07 but I will describe my particular problem, when I turn on my A/C sometimes works fine, sometimes I’ll turn on the A/C and the compressor engages but after 5 or 10 secs it disengages and blows only air and then after other 5-10 secs engages again and so, other times it doesn’t engages at all and only blows warm air.

      I know that the Evap. Discharge Air Temp Sensor causes problems but I also read that it could be other things like the AC pressure Switch, the compressor cycling switch, the blower motor, the blower resistor, the clutch air gap and even the Climate control panel.

      I want to start from the most basic solution to the most expensive-complicated. Where do I start? Thanks.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      Allison this is what you need.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      It will not be blower motor, resistor or the panel. It can be any of the other but i would bet its this sensor. i have change at least 100 of these now

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      probably updated part

    • Mauricio 3 years ago

      Thanks Ray I'm gonna change the Evap Sensor 1st, and later gonna tell you how that went. Regards

    • rkreps0 3 years ago

      where is the evap case in the dash; center, left right?

    • Mauricio 3 years ago

      Thanks Ray with your info. I just finish change that sensor under the dash and the a/c works. I did not make an evacuation & recharge, but is that necessary?. I took some pictures and make a little video of me doing the job, in a few days I'm gonna share, It took me 6-7 hrs but I was cleaning all the things before put it back again. Thank you so much again I hope that solved my problem. Greetings from Guadalajara Mexico.Thanks Ray

    • Mauricio 3 years ago

      @rkreps0: Is in the center

    • Keith 3 years ago

      When I'm not in AZ during the winter, I live in the UK where I have a 2007 Mazda 2, similar to the UK Ford Fusion.

      I found this great thread when searching for an answer to my a/c problem. Last May my a/c wouldn't blow cold air and I had a refrigerant refill by the Mazda dealer - that worked. This Spring after we arrived home I have the same problem - no a/c. I've checked and the fuses and relay are OK.

      Is my car likely to have similar components to those in the North American version and hence maybe the same problem? Labor charges in the UK are generally WAY higher than in the US (with 20% service tax!) so I'm hoping I can avoid a workshop job.

    • Jason 3 years ago

      Just did this today took about 4 hrs, but wasn't too bad. Could they have put that sensor in a harder to get place than that?! Sheesh.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      Keith you have a leak and in that car its most likely the evaporator core.

    • Keith 3 years ago

      A leak and not the component that's been discussed here?

      I'm guessing the evaporator core will be a much more expensive item and even harder, and costlier, to replace. If so I'll likely just manage without cooling because summers in the UK are never very hot or long, unlike AZ where I have a 1 ton Chevvy dually and where a/c is vital!

      I'll arrange for a free check at our local Halfords auto parts store and ask them to check for a leak rather than just refilling the unit and charging me.


    • t-howard 3 years ago

      Thanks for the vast amount of information, I was able to change out the sensor fairly quickly. Upon completion I have a normal working AC and works correctly; however, I have noticed an issue with the initial "turning on of the AC" This 08 Fusion has Automatic Climate Control and seems not to want to kick anything on for a long period of time, almost like there is a massive delay. If you Hit the off button then turn it back on to the settings you like, it does come on. I don't recall this delay before, but when it is on the AC seems to function correctly. I haven't been in the car enough yet to see if the Climate Control "throttles" back the fan once X temp is reached but will post those results. Any ideas??

      Again I can't thank you enough for the efforts in posting this!!

    • justin 3 years ago

      Hello.. I have a 2011 Fusion Hybrid and the sensor went out. 43338 miles on it. Dealer wants to charge $1000, the part is $24.18. Is this sensor in the same place as the older models? If anyone has diagrams or instructions.. can you point me in that direction?

    • mabellyhf 3 years ago

      Ray, from what I've read here it seems my Fusion has this problem. Are you personally repairing cars at the moment? Id like to contact you for a quote to get this fixed. I live in Miami and I believe it would be worth the drive.

    • Mauricio 3 years ago

    • Jeremy 3 years ago

      I just done our 08 fusion.. Total time 2.5 hours and the parts was $30.00 at a ford dealership

    • Craig 3 years ago

      I replaced the temp sensor today on my 07 Milan. The compressor still won't kick on. I am at a loss. I can hard wire the compressor and it works. Do you have any other suggestions for me? I am leaving tonight with no air conditioning to drive on vacation with my wife and 1 year old. I talked with a mechanic at Ford and he said that should fix it. Would it make a difference to change a cooling fan?

    • Jeremy 3 years ago


      I wouldn't think so. The fan comes on with the a/c not the opposite. I'd prolly hard wire it just turn it off every few min so it doesn't freeze up then have it checked out when u get home.

    • La'Brena 3 years ago

      Hey, Ray. After getting the a/ c temp relay replaced, how long do you think it will last before it has to be replaced again?

    • frank 3 years ago

      if I cut a hole in the compartment on top of the dash of my 2006 Ford Fusion SEL could I reach the sensor and replace it?

      Please advise.


    • EdmundAG 3 years ago


      I thought about the same the thing. Cut a hole in the dash compartment. Can sensor be reached this way?

    • Json 3 years ago

      I need to hardwire mine to check the compressor but don't know how. Is there pic/diagram anywhere for a reference?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      I wouldn't be hard wiring anything your only asking for trouble

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      Labrena probably never again the sensor has been updated.

      Frank & Edmund I wouldn't cut a hole for that you have to got in the top of dash. You wont see it another place.

    • Djcoz2013 3 years ago

      Hi seems like I have the same problem today. My ac is cold for 2 seconds then warm for 18 seconds. This cycle continues for my entire commute home today (45 mins) this thread is very informative and as I was at the mechanics I brought this up and he was convinced it was the same thing. I'm not that great doing at home car repairs - they are asking $338 and my vehicle (09 fusion) out the door for this repair. Do you think this is a good price?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      yes that's a good price for this job

    • Jeremy Rogers 3 years ago

      I just replaced this sensor and worked for about an hour then stopped working again

    • Shane 3 years ago

      Did all of the steps now my car won't start and go out of park. Any ideas?

    • EdmundAG 3 years ago

      Followed all instructions and diagrams. Took about 5-6 hours but it worked. One of the hardest parts was trying to release the dash cover of the passenger side airbag, specifically the tabs to the rear, or facing the front of car. However, got it off and AC is working just fine! Thanks Ray and the rest!!

    • Nsci 3 years ago

      Thanks to all. Our AC stopped working, the compressor wouldn't turn on at all. I read this forum and decided to give it a try. The sensor in the EVAP is the YH1662, bought it on amazon for $12. 4 hours and my wife's car is fixed. I really appreciate resources of this type....thanks to all that contributed.

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      Sahne u left something unpluged. The shifter wont move becuse the shift lock solenoid has no power

    • Chris 3 years ago

      I own a 2006 Zepher. Is it all the same?

    • Des O'Dwyer 3 years ago

      Los Angeles

      Dec 13

      Left my 2011 Fusion, 44k, with dealer sensor faulty.Ipaid $118 for diagnostic test,I declined repairs @ $850

      Highway Robbery

      Anyone successful getting Ford to pay?

    • RayTheWrench profile image

      RayTheWrench 3 years ago

      Not a chance Ford will pay one cent.

    • Tmast 3 years ago

      I bought a 2011 Fusion SE weeks ago and found out the AC compressor wasn't turning on when I got it home. It is under warranty and was replaced.(26k miles) A few days later the sensor went out again. The dealer had to replace it again! They said it was defective.

      I had a lot of trouble with the Ford dealer as they threw the interior back together very poorly; weather stripping not in right, left clips and screws loose, and even broke the SYNC connector inside the console. To top if off they scratched the cluster lens. I had to make a list of about 10 things they didn't do right. I just couldn't believe that they would do such a poor job, that my car was in worse condition when I picked it up than when I dropped it off. I should have inspected everything before I drove it home, but it was dark already. Lesson learned for the future! They next day I took it back.

      They tried to deny most of it, but were willing to replace the damaged parts at no cost. The time on the worksheet said 2.70 hours for the labor, but the tech that did this, must have done it in less then an hour. This would have never happened if the car was a brand new Lincoln.

      I decided not to let them touch my car again, and just picked up the parts myself. I spent over 3 hours correcting their work, and even aligning the dash were it was from the factory and torqueing all the bolts to spec. Before when I was talking to them, the shop foreman came out and said we don't torque the steering column bolt, how do you get a torque wrench in there? I said 1 foot extension with a 1/4" torque wrench down to the floor. LOL. Very sad...

      I should have just replaced the sensor myself and saved the 3 trips to the Dealer and all the hassle. I will not be taking my fusion back to that Ford dealer ever again. I am still shaking my head when I think about it.

      I see BWD makes a sensor, part number: WT5599. I wonder if it will last longer then the Motorcraft? Ford really needs to make a fix so they don't go bad so fast. If this sensor goes out again before the summer I am going to replaced it and then sell my Fusion. I'm not going to be stranded in 100 degree weather out of town here in Texas. This whole experience has been horrible, and I just got the car!

    • Johnny808 2 years ago

      My wife's A/C just stopped working on her 2007 ford fusion today with 78000 miles. I checked and the pump clutch is not engaging at all she said the A/C was making noise a few weeks ago. How can I tell if it's the a/c compressor pump / clutch or if it's the sensor under the dash I don't want to replace the sensor with all that work if it's the pump or clutch.

    • Tmast 2 years ago

      Johnny808, I would just take it in and have Ford or a Good shop diagnose the problem, shouldn't cost too much. Then decide what to too.

      So last week my AC compressor stopped coming on again... And rarely when it does the AC is not very cold at all. Twice this sensor has been replaced. Now it will have to be a 3rd time. I ordered the BWD WT5599 sensor and I will be installing it myself, even though I have warranty. I am so fed up with this issue and Ford's "quality" . I'm going to try this one more time then the car will be traded in if this ones fails.

      Could something in the AC cause the sensor to fail? Too much voltage? Otherwise Ford has a serious defect problem with these sensors right now. Serves them right. I wonder if there are thousands of Fusions getting defective sensors. There have been 1.6 million Fusions sold since 2006.

    • Maurice 2 years ago

      Ray can I call you and ask you a few questions about the removal of some parts on my 2008 fusion, and would you be interested in some side Jobs on my ford vehicles.... 97 F-150, and 2004 expedition ?

    • mojo1865 2 years ago

      Ray, I'm interested in having you replace the evap sensor on my '12 Fusion. Is this problem common on late model Fusions? The dealer is saying I need to replace 6E5Z19C734BA. How can I get in contact with you? I am in Kendall, btw. Thanks, Tony

    • rferrel1 2 years ago

      I get ambient air temperature bouncing around on 2013 fusion and am told this keeps my A/C compressor from coming in. Sometimes when I start car I get -39 or -40 ambient temp displayed, then it seems to settle in at 50 degrees, which is inaccurate. Any suggestions?


    • bobbyndallas 2 years ago

      I have a 07 Fusion and I am facing the same problem. OBD indicates evap temp sensor. I appreciate all that I have seen and read here.

      Has anyone made a video about replacing the evap sensor yet? Ray?

      Sure would be helpful before I start.

      Gets pretty warm in Texas.

    • gerry 2 years ago

      Hi ray I got problem with my 2011 ford fusión 3.0 the a/c compressor don't want turn on I see the relay and I pass directly ground and compressor is work and cold inside can you help me with that

    • bobbyndallas 2 years ago

      I just finished this job myself. And YES I HAVE AIR COND!!! I am in Texas and it is hot here. Thanks to all the people who posted with advice here. Fred, your instructions were very helpful. The biggest difficulty I had was getting the old sensor out/ unplugged. I could not see it only feel. They snap together.

      Just a note here about the steering column. It is not as hard to do as I thought. It came apart when I pulled the dash out. Putting it back together does require some line-up finesse, and the pinch bolt can be a bit difficult to get back in. The advice about tying the wheel was very helpful but, also, do mark the spot where the ujoint is before you remove it. There are three pieces and pulling the dash out will cause them to come apart.

      Thanks again to all who gave advice. This is about the only post I could find about this, although I know this is a big problem with the fusion.

    • Eddie 2 years ago


      Any chance you can tell me where I can buy a female connector to the a/c compressor? I was troubleshooting the clutch and trying to bypass it with my Power Probe. However the connector got stripped out when the car turned on and it hit the belt.

      2010 Ford Fusion Dealer told me they need to order the whole harness for that connector.

    • Mauricio 2 years ago

      Does anyone knows what would happen if i just remove the sensor..?

    • Raymond 2 years ago

      Change the sensor AC still not blowing cold any ideas?

    • walkerlh profile image

      walkerlh 2 years ago from Rome, Georgia

      This was Perfect, Right on the money Made the repair in 2 hours. Made good easy moneyu and I looked like a genius Thanks Man

    • rdanser61 2 years ago

      Hey Ray, Excellent instructions! I am not throwing a code so I am reluctant to go through the process to replace the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor. Is there any way to test it without pulling the dash. I would expect you could find the proper connection below the glove box and use an ohm meter to see if you have an open, a short or some resistance if the sensor is good. I don't know the color code of the wires for the sensor.

      I have jumpered the relay and tested the compressor blows cool air. I have used a cheap 134a hose and meter to see if the system is operating within range. I have checked the fuses and relays that are related to the system0.

      Any thoughts?



    • Corey 2 years ago

      Hey Ray,

      I was curious to know where you posted your videos of how to do this the "short cut" way. My A/C blows just not cold air. It's only hot air! I checked the relay and the relay is good because I replaced that. My compressor wasn't kicking on but when I bipassed the relay it came on and would blow cold air. The compressor has ground so I have no idea what the problem is. Any help would be greatly appreciated since it is the summer time in Texas! Thanks

    • Mitsumedic 21 months ago

      Thank you so much for this post. Working on a used car, this saved my *ss! Followed your directions, done and with A.C. in under 4 hours. The interweb is a wonderful place...

    • Jake 21 months ago

      Change the the evap temp sensor, and pressure cycling switch and compressor still will not turn on.. Jump it and it turned on for a while before the pressure relive valve engaged.. Need some expert advice.

    • BRANDON 20 months ago

      i replaced the evap sensors and still nothing. it seems as if im not getting power to the ac controls is there a solution to that problem that you might know of

    • Eric B 19 months ago

      Excellent post. Glad I found it. I have a 2006 Fusion and the air suddenly quit. I verified the failed component by the quick fix described at I was able to leave the left A-pillar trim and the shifter in place, leave the steering coupling connected (leaving the adjustment lever down for adjusting the column), and just shifting the right side of the panel outward. Took about 4 hours with breaks.

    • 06 Fusion 18 months ago

      Need your help. Evaporater needs to be replaced. Where is your shop?

    • Lewis 18 months ago

      I used your directions and it worked great but now I can't get my car to start the passive security system anti theft light is on the dash. Do you have any advice

    • KimberlyP 17 months ago

      Can you cut the dash to get to the evap temp sensor?? The compartment is right behind the sensor , question is can you reach it, has it been done???? Yes or no all I need to know, have a great mechanic to do it, kust please!!!

    • T. Jack 17 months ago

      I have a 2015 Fusion Hybrid and I have the same problem. I left my son in the car while the engine was running with ac blowing cold. I got back to my car and hot air was blowing from the ac. My son is 15 years old and had fell asleep. Luckily, I was right near my car because he had fell asleep and it was 105 degrees outside. He probably would have passed out if this an extended period of time.

      I cannot believe Ford comtinues to not address this issue. Someone is going to die.

    • Linda 16 months ago

      THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU!!! YOUR THE BEST!!! My daughter and I were able to do the job using your instructions and a video post on YouTube!!! She now has cold air in her 2009 Ford Fusion!!! :-D

    • David I. 14 months ago

      Just got my 2008 Lincoln mkz back from the Philphott Ford dealership in Nederland, TX... $1082 to replace the evap temp sensor. My problem is my steering wheel isn't straight while driving down the road, I took it back and they said nothing they did would have caused that. What do you say? Thanks.

    • Hillary 9 months ago

      I had the same problem and had the Evaporator Discharge Air Temperature Sensor changed, my father did it, took a whole day, but saved money on going to a repair shop. It worked for a day, but now it is back to not getting cold again. Once in a while it will get cold for a minute, but that's it. Any thoughts on this problem? I live in Boynton Beach by the way.

    • ben 9 months ago

      if checking all the fuses and relays, i have no power to the compressor but i have a good ground to the compressor. do you believe that this would be the problem on a 2010 ford focus

    • Ray 9 months ago

      Hi, well I have a ford fusion 2010, v6, 3.0 lt, and A/C quit, I already replace eva temp sensor but problem continues, can you help to found a/c schematic to check if a have a defective sensor. Thank you

    • Jamie A Reid profile image

      Jamie A Reid 8 months ago

      Critical note. Just did my 2011 Fusion. Unfortunately my wheels are now straight at 2 o'clock on the wheel. I made witness marks, strapped the wheel from moving and removed the bolt as shown in this video BUT you don't need to remove the bolt because there is a bolt free mechanical join maybe 4 inches above - you can see it in the same diagram. Make your witness marks there, maybe as well as at the firewall connection. Once I pulled the dash out and saw what happened I knew I was now going to be a victim of spline roulette. I lost. Now I need an alignment to correct it... sometime. Good news? AC works again.

    • sam 6 months ago

      hey just wondering if this applies to a 2013 ford fusion as well

    • Rmoney 6 months ago


      I'm doing this procedure step by step and for some reason when it gets to step 13, there are no more steps listed only comments. I'm at a standstill until I can see the other steps. Thanks,


    • Gons 3 months ago


      I have a ford fusion 2010 and the A/C not working any more, compressor can't power on, my question is, this procedure applies for my car? Thanks in advance.

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