DIY Toyota Camry 5SFE Engine Oil-Leak Repair (With Video)
3 Common Causes of Oil Leaks From the 4-Cylinder Camry
Here are the three most common sources of oil leaks from the Camry I4 5SFE engine.
- Worn oil seals from the camshaft, the crankshaft, and the oil pump sprocket seal and gasket. These seals and gaskets are typically checked and replaced when performing a timing belt replacement. If leakage becomes excessive, you might want to go ahead and replace your timing belt ahead of schedule, since oil contact with the belt will reduce its longevity. A timing belt saturated with oil will eventually break prematurely and without warning.
- The valve cover gasket has shrunk, dry rotted, or simply lost its ability to seal. Since the top of the engine is tilted towards the firewall, the majority of the oil leak will accumulate on top of the intake manifold by the fuel injectors. The oil may continue to migrate down to the oil pan which may give the illusion that the oil pan gasket requires replacement. Applying silicone-gasket-maker material onto the valve cover gasket, a trick I've seen tried often, does not work, and oil will continue to leak.
- The rubber coating on the valve cover/cylinder head plug (located to the right of the engine when facing the engine), has shrunk or cannot maintain a good seal. Toyota added this plug when they replaced their camshaft-driven ignition distributor system with solid-state coil packs.
If Item 1 is your problem, you will want to replace your timing belt, as discussed in another article. This DIY article will address items 2 and 3.
A Fourth Source of Leaks
If a leak is detected between the inner CV axle shaft and the transmission—if you see seepage stains below where the CV axle meets the differential, or drip marks on the ground in that area—the problem may be a transmission fluid leak from a worn axle shaft seal. A leak here will cause the level of transmission fluid (ATF) to drop gradually. Another article of mine shows how to replace the axle and seal.
Identifying the Source of the Leak
Leak Behind the Passenger-Side Front Wheel
If the number one and two fuel injectors show a film of fresh oil, or accumulated dirty oil, the valve cover may be the culprit. The source can be further validated by removing the front passenger-side wheel and inspecting the power-steering pump. If the pump is wet with oil, the leak has migrated from the intake runner down to the back of the engine block and then to the power-steering pump. This is assuming that the power-steering pump itself is not leaking; if it is, the power steering fluid level will be dropping.
Leak Beside the Passenger-Side Front Wheel
Again, the source of the leak can be verified by removing the front passenger-side wheel. If an oil film appears at the base of the lower timing belt cover where it meets the engine block, then the camshaft or crankshaft seal, or the oil pump seal or gasket, may be leaking. The timing belt cover must be removed to determine the exact cause.
Leak Between the Front Wheels, Below the Transmission
Unless the leak is transmission fluid coming from the inner CV axle shaft seal, the cylinder head plug (the half-circle hump on the right side of the engine by the ignition coil packs) is leaking oil.
Video on Recognizing a Bad Valve Cover Gasket
The 2-minute video below provides you an overview on recognizing a valve cover gasket that needs replacement.
Video on Replacing the Valve Cover Gasket for a Toyota Camry I4 5SFE Engine
The below 5.5-minute video will provide you with step-by-step instructions for removing and installing a valve cover gasket on a I4 Toyota Camry. Instructions in text form follow the video.
Video on Fixing Oil Leakage Inside the Spark Plug Tube
The 7.5-minute video below will show you how to repair oil leakage inside your spark plug tube. If this problem is not corrected, you may experience ignition misfire and possible damage to your coil pack.
Valve Cover Gasket Replacement and Valve Cover Plug Seal Procedure
- Remove the ignition wires. Using either bent-end or needle-nose
hose pliers will ease removal.
- Disconnect the vacuum line from the right side of the valve cover.
- Unbolt the two engine hoist hooks from the front left and right side of the valve cover. This will ease the removal and installation of the valve cover.
PCV Valve Removal
- Move the hose clamp closest to the intake runner.
- Using needle-nose pliers, pry the PCV valve up out of the valve cover.
- Twist off the PCV hose, with the PCV valve attached, from the intake runner.
Remove the Valve Cover Hold-Down Nuts/Rings
- Using a 30 mm socket, unbolt the four 30 mm hold-down nuts/rings.
- The valve cover can now be removed. The rubber gasket may be slightly fused to the cylinder head; using a pry tool will ease removal.
Unbolt Plug Cap, Remove Plug, and Clean
- Two 10 mm bolts retain the plug cap. Remove the two bolts.
- Pry the cap off using a thin-tipped screwdriver.
- Clean the area where the cap sat, removing oil and debris. Finish by using any brake-cleaning product to remove oil residue.
Coat Cap Contact Surfaces With RTV and Reconnect Cap Cover
- Use any
RTV product with gasket-sealing properties. J-B Weld makes an excellent automotive high temperature RTV if you can find it.
- Coat the base where the plug sits with RTV, along with the cap.
- Position the plug on the cylinder header.
- Secure the cap on the plug and re-bolt.
New Valve Cover Gasket Installation
My personal preference is to use silicone valve cover gaskets instead of rubber. Rubber will eventually shrink, crack, dry rot, and leak again. Silicone gaskets, if you can find them, last longer and retain their elasticity better than their rubber counterparts. When the new rubber gasket shrinks, re-tightening the valve cover rings will offset shrinkage, but this solution will only work for a while. However, I've found valve cover gaskets made by Fel-Pro to be of very high quality with good durability.
- Dab RTV sealant at the edges where the semi-circle hump ends.
- Clean the valve cover grooves where the new gasket is to be placed. Removing all oil residue from the grooves will allow the new gasket to adhere to the grooves, which will be helpful during installation of the cover. If the new gasket will not stay put, apply a small amount of RTV in the grooves.
- Re-install the valve cover. The remaining steps are the reversal of the removal process. When torquing down the valve cover rings, spread the tension equally among the four rings. This will help distribute hold-down tension on the new gasket and should provide a good seal.
This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.
Questions & Answers
I have a 199 Camry LE and I think it is burning through oil like crazy. It does appear to be leaking oil however one time I did see a small spot of oil on the ground on the right side underneath the front passenger wheel (2 times). I do see that the front CV axle shift is covered in oil (front side). Where can the oil be coming from?
If it's a high mileage car (over 150k) its probably inside your timing belt cover which could be a worn out or dry rotted: 1. Camshaft Oil Seal 2. Crankshaft Oil Seal 3. Oil Pump Cover Oil Seal.
Helpful 9I have a 2001 Camry 5sfe motor and have a bad oil leak. I had the timing belt, cam seal and crank seals replaced but it dropped 2 quarts of oil in 35km. Seems to be leaking from the same side but the seals were replaced. It has a dry gasket cover, but now oil leaking on the right side of the engine. Were else could the leak be coming from? There is a steady drip on the left side of the engine. Any advice?
Could be the rear main oil seal (sandwiched between the engine and transmission), the oil pump seal (driven by the timing belt but would be leaking from the passenger side) or the plugs on the side of the engine cover need to be resealed. Recommend you power wash all oil residue to better identify the source of the leak.
Helpful 2
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Comments
HM, You are correct; I located the bearing bolt spec in the Chilton manual. They recommend 168 in./lbs. which is 14 ft./lbs. According to a Youtube video silicone lasts longer than other materials. But I will find out about a single gasket after I install it. Thanks for the info. If you like I will let you know how the gasket is working after a year. The mechanic that I went to also uses Fel-Pro.
I do not know why my 1999 Toyota Camry is burning oil like crazy. I am not seeing many leaks on the ground, however I did see a small spot of oil on the ground towards the inside and underneath the front passenger wheel area. I also saw oil covering the front CV Axle Shift. Where could the oil be coming from?
Hi. This is a soon to be upcoming project for me. I have ordered an Apex valve cover gasket because they are supposed to be silicone. You mentioned that you prefer silicone gaskets but recommend Fel-Pro. I located this on RockAuto.
My main question is about the torque value of the bearing seals. One video had the guy guessing around 13 ft/lbs as this is what he took them off at. Do you know or have a link to these torque specs? I have a Chilton manual and it contains some torque values but not all.
On my 98 Camry 2.2L I have been getting leaks for a bit, so I notice it was leaking from the valve cover and replaced the gasket so that’s taken care of but I’m noticing it’s still leaking oil from somewhere and I’ve looked around and it’s leaking from somewhere behind the engine, I can’t really tell from where but looks like it’s coming from the intake manifold, would I need to change the manifold gasket or could it be something else?
It is a very detailed article. I have been losing oil in my Camry 2001 and I have to keep adding. I see the oil at the top of the engine cover. I will post pictures. I will do some research and see where the leak is. Thanks for UV dye tip. Have a good one.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry. I have an oil leak that has progressively gotten worse over the last 2yrs. The shop I go to for oil changes, at first look said it was an oil pan not sealing. The seal was replaced but the oil continues to leak. The shop is unable to find an active leak but I go through about 3quarts every 2,000 miles of which I replace as needed. More when driving long distances, or hot weather or with AC use. The shop thinks I maybe burning it but I never see black smoke but I do see oils spots on the cement especially in the AM. The spots are not colored like transmission oil. The spots on the ground are located on the middle-left side of the engine. No drips or pooling can be seen. Not by the left front wheel. At times, the timing is off a bit but as can be expected with an older car with higher miles. The timing usually corrects itself although. In sight?
TY for the knowledge
i have Camry 1999 which always leak oil through the valve cover hose into the air filter compartment as well as some noticeable oil in the injector mouth
Can I just say this is a fantastic and well written article? Also the fact that you have been answering questions on it for over a year is highly commendable. You are a gem to the DIY community.
I have a 1997 Camry that leaks oil onto the transmission where it puddles until it runs down onto the ground. I thought it was the valve cover gasket/cylinder head plug, but after I replaced the gasket and sealed up the plug with RTV like the above article showed I still have a leak. Seems like it could be coming from one of the hoses/lines above the transmission.
This is going to be my daughters college car and I'm worried she will run the oil dry so..............any recommendations for a new wanna be mechanic on this car?
Thanks for all your helpful advice.
Is the procedure to change the valve cover gaskets really that different for the v-6 camry? I've been told there are two gaskets instead of 2, are there other things I should be aware of before I do it myself?
Thanks
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I have a Toyota camry 1999 xle model. The engine oil of my camry always short that I have to add 1 quart or more in between oil change. I have checked all around the engine no visible leak and no visible smoke coming out of the exhuast. Also the fuel consumption is higher than other 1999 camry I know. Though it seems to work very fine. One kick it starts, accelaration very good, its pack with power. My mechanic couldn't seem to figure out the problem. Any suggestion, please.
Thanks very much, the leakage is not from left or right axle shaft inner seal, I am suspecting the transmission input shaft seal as the leakage is from between engine and gearbox, I don't actually know if the leakage is from the torque converter seal and where it is located
my 99 toyota camry 5SFE leaks oil between the engine and gear box, I also discovered the ATF is low, when I took it to the mechanic he said the converter seal is bad, that I will need to replace the gearbox oil pump that comes with the converter seal. pls advice ♍ε̲̣̣̣̥ on this
Hi,
My car is a 1999 Toyota Camry, which seems to have a small oil leak from under the metal bracket on which the ignition coil packs installed. I think the oil drips onto the metal tube connected to the heater core hose and then collects on top of speed sensor.
Do you think this could be the cylinder head plug seal problem as mentioned above?
I have Camry v6 1998 , my problem is when i take off the car there is a noise happen for less than a second . In the left side near tire , do u know how can I fix it ? Thank u
The engine oil on my 1999 Camry is down about a quart ( one bottle) about 4000 miles drive. But I have not found any leaking around the car. The oil is Mobil 1 synthetic oil. In the past, I also experienced noticeable engine oil loss when using synthetic oil. Is it I did not find the leaking or using the synthetic oil ? Thanks
I decided to lay a thin bead of RTV silicone down then lay the gasket over top. Apparently when I re assembled the cover over the cheap gasket it got pinched. Going to let it cure for 24 hours and test it tomorrow. Thank you for the input.
It's coming from the oil pump cover.
I just replaced the seal and gasket and is still leaking just as bad as it was before hand. I did have trouble getting the gasket to line up and stay put though. It was a cheap one from O Reileys. Any suggestions on what I should do next?
Chris
I have a rebuilt 5sfe that has been installed for about a month when it started leaking oil from the edges of the oil pump. My girlfiends dad did the install of the new longblock, oil pump came with the rebuild. He took it off and said the seals look fine. Reinstalled it ans still leaks. Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks
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