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Replacing the CV Axle Shaft and Output Shaft Seal, or Replacing a CV Boot, on a Toyota Camry (With Videos)

Hardlymoving writes about do-it-yourself maintenance and repair of Japanese cars.


This article provides detailed steps for how to remove and replace the driver’s-side CV axle and its axle shaft seal. The axle's inner or outer boots may have split, the internal bearings may be worn (making noise during turns), or ATF fluid may be leaking from the axle shaft seal(s) seated in the transmission differential.

This article does not address replacing the boots on a CV axle shaft. From personal experience, it is not worth the cost, mess, and time. New boots from your local parts supplier (if they have the boots available) usually run $20. Rebuilt as well as new shafts with a warranty cost around $70. If re-booting is the goal, might as well re-boot both the inner and outer boots… which now brings the cost to over $40. This translates to only a $30 cost savings to perform at least a 1.5-hour effort to re-boot, combined with a big grease mess and a lot of paper towels for cleanup.

Regardless of whether the axle shaft is being replaced or not, the inner shaft (or differential) seal should be replaced. Older, high-mileage cars may have seal leakage due to dry rot, hardening with age, or slight damage during a shaft removal or installation job. The cost of a new seal usually runs less than $10.

The outer part of the axle shaft can be separated from the steering knuckle by disconnecting the lower ball joint from the lower control arm. On the Camry and some other models, it requires less time and effort to detach the suspension strut from the steering knuckle. Although most prefer the ball joint removal method, detaching the two bolts securing the suspension strut to the knuckle is easier.

The Camry inner CV axle is recessed into the differential allowing no room to position a pry bar to "pop" the axle out. However, the inner CV bearing housing has three prongs or "ears" that provide a place where a pry tool can push. To gain adequate pry bar leverage against an ear to "pop" the axle shaft, position the pry bar from the top of the engine compartment.

Or see the video below for another method to remove the inner CV axle.

Also, if you're having problems separating the outer CV axle from the steering knuckle, see the video below:

Here's a video on the passenger side cv axle replacement performed on a Toyota Camry. This is a longer axle where the axle is "split" in the center by a support bearing.

Here's a video of a axle shaft removal and seal replacement on a Toyota Highlander. The removal procedure is basically the same:

If you want to salvage your pulled axle by replacing the CV boot, here's a video on how to do it.

Remove the Axle Shaft

  • If a high-torque impact driver is not available, the nut tension can be relieved with a 32 mm socket attached to a breaker bar. The axle can be prevented from moving by leaving the front wheel resting on the ground; that is, by not jacking up the wheel.
  • Remove the axle shaft cotter pin with pliers.
  • Remove the axle shaft nut cotter pin alignment cover.
  • Remove the axle shaft nut.

Drain the Transmission Fluid

Draining the fluid before removing the shaft will avoid transmission fluid gushing out the differential after the shaft has been pulled out.

  • The drain plug can be removed with a Hex socket.
  • Approximately 2.75 quarts of ATF should drain out. The oil can be saved and reused if the no dirt or grim drops into the drain pan.
  • Screw back in the drain plug and tighten. Do it now or you might forget.

Detach the Strut Assembly From the Steering Knuckle

  • Remove the two bolts and two nuts that secures the strut to the steering knuckle.
  • Remove the brake line bracket bolt.
  • Jar the axle shaft loose from the wheel hub.

The axle shaft splines may be stuck to the wheel hub. If a few light taps with a hammer does not push the shaft in, partially thread back on the axle shaft nut on to the axle shaft. This will allow harder hammer impacts on the shaft without damaging the shaft threads.

Pull the Outer Axle Shaft Away From the Steering Knuckle

  • Wiggle and twist the steering knuckle free from the strut. When the two have separated, the axle shaft should have slid partially out. Pull the shaft out with your hands.

Remove the Inner CV Axle Shaft Shield and the Air Intake Hose

  • Removal of this shield will allow pry bar access to the "ears" (pry bar leverage points) of the axle’s inner bearing cup.
  • A clear path to the axle shaft can be made by removing the air filter to throttle body intake hose. Removal of the hose should not take more than 5 minutes. *Note: Before putting the hose back on, clean the throttle body plate with some carburetor cleaner solvent.

Remove the Axle Shaft From the Transmission Differential

  • Rotate the axle shaft until one of the lips or ears on the CV bearing cup is pointing up. The transmission must be in neutral to rotate the shaft. After positioning the bearing cup, place the transmission back into "park" to prevent the shaft from moving.
  • From inside the engine compartment, position the tip end of a long pry bar up against the bearing cup ear. The pry bar leverage point will be the transmission housing.
  • Begin applying force to the pry bar… like your body weight. The pulling force being applied to the CV bearing cup must be enough to compress an internal snap ring that prevents the shaft from pulling out and through the differential’s splines. If that does not work, a few sharp hammer blows on the pry bar should provide enough shock force to compress the ring and get the bearing cup moving. Toyota CV snap rings tend to be stronger than snap rings found in other cars (i.e., Honda, Nissan, etc.—Subaru uses compression pins to hold their inner CV axles, but that’s another story).

Remove the Inner CV Axle Shaft Seal

  • Seal replacement is highly recommended. A lot of seal replacement jobs could have been avoided if the installer of the new axle bothered to replace the oil seal with a new one. The part is around $10 and only adds a few minutes to the job. Either a small pry bar or seal removal tool will work.

Install the New Inner CV Axle Shaft Seal

  • Clean all surfaces and apply a light coat of grease on the transmission seal seat. Position the new seal square in the seat hole. Use a large socket (around 34 mm) to press the new seal in place (or use a bearing press tool like this one). Apply gentle taps on the socket to press the seal and observe the progress. The seal should be flush with the transmission differential housing. Do not allow the seal to recess beyond the housing. If it does, pry it out with your fingers. To prevent damage to the new seal, do not use any sharp tools.

Install the Axle Shaft

  • Position the inner portion of the CV axle through the transmission differential axle shaft hole. Rotate the shaft until the splines from the shaft catch the splines inside the hole. The shaft should move in approximately ½ “.
  • You need a second person for this next step. With an extra pair of hands, align the axle (including the outer CV bearing cup) positioned straight towards the transmission. Push the shaft towards the transmission (which should compress the inner and outer CV boots), and have your buddy strike the end of the axle shaft gently to get the CV snap rings to compress and move through the transmission’s differential spline. Ensure that the CV nut is on the shaft to prevent damage to the threads. The internal CV bearing must be seated against the CV bearing cup before striking the shaft. If not, the CV boots will be absorbing the hammer blows and the snap ring will not be compressed.

Putting It All Back Together

Reverse the above steps to get things back together. A brief overview:

  • Bolt on the inner CV bearing cup shield
  • Reconnect the air tube / hose
  • Insert the outer CV axle shaft into the steering knuckle. Rotate the shaft back and forth until it aligns with the splines. Then spin on the shaft nut enough to prevent the shaft from sliding out.
  • Bolt on the suspension strut to the steering knuckle along with the brake hose bracket bolt.
  • Install the wheel and remove your jack and jack stands.
  • Torque the axle shaft nut to around 150 lbs. Applying your body weight to the breaker bar should put you close to that torque.
  • Fill your transmission with ATF. Double-check the fluid level after the engine is warm.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Questions & Answers

Question: Can you please share your expertise on the snap ring axle retainer on the trans end on a Toyota Camry? How does this work?

Answer: It's commonly referred to as a retaining ring; not a snap ring. The ring at the end of the inner CV axle joint, is compressed by applying pressure on the joint shaft when the shaft is being pushed into the transmission. The ring will stay compressed while riding on the transmission spines until the shaft has been fully inserted and "bottomed out." The ring then expands to prevent the shaft from being pulled out unless pulled with force, which will compress the ring.

Question: What kind of oil does a 1996 Toyota Camry CV axle use?

Answer: It doesn't use oil, it uses CV rated axle grease.

Question: What if I change the axle seal due to a leak, and it still continues to leak?

Answer: Either the replacement seal was no good or installed incorrectly.

Question: How would I pull the inner axle of my Toyota Camry?

Answer: Use a pry tool and put in between the inner bearing housing and the transmission. You can apply hammer blows to the handle of the pry bar to jar the CV out.

Question: How do you replace the seal on the passenger side of the transaxle of a 2GR-FE (V6) 07 Camry? I noticed that a metal cover ring popped off and was floating around on the long output shaft on the passenger side before the CV axle.

Answer: Passenger side CV axle removal is too involved to explain compared to the driver's side. Passenger side is a split axle design. Basically, you have to remove the center support bearing snap ring then use a hammer and punch the driver the center bearing out of the bearing support bracket.

Question: Can I use a CV axle of a 1995 Toyota Camry in a 1990 Toyota Celica?

Answer: Nope.

Question: Can a failing driveshaft cause vibration while idling and can it cause an ABS sensor/ABS module to fail thereby?

Answer: No and no. Driveshaft problems are noticed when the car is in motion. ABS sensors are integrated into the steering knuckle and gets its readings off the ABS ring mounted on the outer CV axle. A new axle should come with a new ABS ring.

© 2013 hardlymoving


hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on August 25, 2020:


I'd recommend Cardone, GSP, Surtrack & APWI.

Joe on August 24, 2020:

Any chance you might recommend a CV Axle brand/manufacturer for a 2000 Camry 3.0L, automatic (front/driver-side) ? You have recommended new instead of used, but will you also recommend a brand/manufacturer ?

Joe on August 10, 2020:

Thnx, but I can't find a Timken or SKF CV Axle for a 2000 Camry 3.0L (front/driver-side). Is there another manufacturer you recommend ?

Change all 6 ignition coils at the same time, right ?

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on August 10, 2020:


An seal brand should do. Can use Timken or SKF

FelPro or Mahle for valve cover gasket

Standard Motor Products or Denso for ignition coils

Denso or NGK for plugs and wires

Joe on August 10, 2020:

What brand of CV axle and axle shaft seal do you recommend for a 2000 Camry 3.0L (Japanese Vin #) ?

Please/Thank you !

p.s. plz also recommend a brand/type of

- valve cover gasket

- ignition coils

- spark plugs

- spark plug wires

Excellent information/videos - thank you !

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on September 17, 2019:

If you're talking about the half shaft center bearing mount, use a long needle nose pliers.

Dennis on September 17, 2019:

Im having a hard time putting back the snap ring back.

Any suggestions.

Its on a 1999 toyota camry xle 3.0 automatic transmission. I replaced the cv axle on the on the passenger side.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on September 11, 2019:

I wouldn't be too worried about the depth. You should be able to push the shaft in until it bottoms out. If you think that this is a problem, could be a defect in the design of the replacement shaft. The important thing is that the shaft doesn't pop-out one day.

ajkalb on September 11, 2019:

I am installing a passenger side CV axle on a 2006 Toyota Camry. When I initially drove the axle into the transmission, I overshot the proper depth by 1-2mm. This displaced the dust cover mating up with the transmission case. What should the positioning of the cover be relative to the seal? I presume it should have some clearance between the seal and the dust cover; otherwise, it will be metal on rubber. I'm thinking something on the order of 0.5mm is the correct space (based on the rebuild tolerances of +-0.5mm for the location of the cover).

Also, I'm a little surprised I could actually drive the axle in beyond the proper depth. Any idea if this might do damage to the transmission itself?

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on July 01, 2018:


I had a similar situation where I re-booted a CV axle and shaking started happening. Believe either the CV bearings and/or the CV bearing housing was just too worn out.

Removing the axle will not damage the transmission. Don't know who told you that. The right (passenger side) axle is a split axle with a center sealed bearing. You have to remove the spring clip on the center bearing support bracket (long nose pliers), remove the bolt on the bottom of the center support bracket and use a long, heavy punch tool to hammer the center bearing out of the support bracket. The shaft going into the transmission is not clipped so you don't have to worry about that.

Andy on July 01, 2018:

I replaced the front right inner CV axle boot rubber or dust cover of my 2007 Camry V6 XLE 3.5 liters and from then on my car is shaking. I have checked the tires and done wheel balancing and yet it will not stop. I am about to replace the CV axle altogether but I hear that removal of the CV axle will damage the auto transmission. Is this true? Is there any special way to remove and replace this CV axle.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on December 17, 2017:


You can use a slide hammer with the screw-0n hook attachment for the slide hammer rod. Secure the rod to the CV housing/cup with a large diameter hose clamp to prevent the rod from sliding off. The hook attachment should be on one of the ears of the CV housing/cup. One quick impact will get the CV housing to pop out.

Brandon on December 17, 2017:

This was really helpful. My problem is when I went to pull the axel it seperated and part is stuck in the transmission. I've been trying pry bars but it won't budge. Puller won't fit over it since its recessed in there. Any ideas?

tom w on May 22, 2017:

the article was helpful, but my camry is a 1988 with a manual transmission. The cables controling the shifters are in the way of the pry bar if the inner cv hub is approached from above, for the removal part. I rented a 3 jawed puller from the auto parts store, after I removed the inner cv boot. with just one pul on the hammer the cv joint popped out,, this is the third time I have replaced the boots on the front axle.

NOw I am trying to find a drive axle oil seal to replace the old one in the differential. kind of hard to find.

thanks, I hope I can get this back together without other issues.

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on March 04, 2017:


I wrote an article on doing a transmission fluid replacement ... up to a 2001. Doing it on a 2003 shouldn't be that much different.

KIT LE on February 27, 2017:

Toyota 2003 Camry 4 cylinders

Can the author give me advice on the replacing transmission fluid? The question is that can I just drain out all the old fluid from the transmission tank as much as possible till the last drop of black oil without using the hydraulic pressure pump to do the job. After making sure it is empty, then fill about 10 liters of new oil in. Do you recommend replacing the gasket and the filter in the bottom pan? Is it a must to do or just leave it if there are no signs of leaks.

Where is the Inner CV Axle Shaft Seal?

Your professional advice is highly appreciated.

Thank you

Jeremy on January 09, 2017:

Thank you , would this also be the same or simlar for early 90's Camrys ?

Max on December 10, 2016:

A Camry with the automatic transmission uses automatic transmission fluid in the differential. Grab the Haynes manual from your favorite auto parts store, which covers details like this.

liyangtime on November 02, 2016:

Hi, Thanks for your post.

I am wondering does Camry use ATF fluid in differential case? Someone said if I see leaks between CV and differential, that should be differential fluid. I should add differential fluid after seal replacement. But I didn't find out the differential fluid filling hole.

My car 2004 Toyota Camry SE

JC on July 14, 2016:

Are you just using automatic transmission fluid ? I've replaced a driveshaft on a manual transmission, and had to use a certain kind of gear oil. But it seems to me that you're just using automatic transmission fluid for this job . Is this correct?

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on May 24, 2016:

Ken w,

Yes ... you tap it in with a socket or makeshift tool of the same diameter. While tapping it in, one side my get pushed in more than the other. In that case, you may have to start over or if a little loop sided, tap the high end until flush.

ken w on May 24, 2016:

When you are installing the new seal do you tap it in till it seats itself or should the seal just be flush with the outside of the housing

hardlymoving (author) from Memphis, TN on February 16, 2016:


Up to 2001 ... but the newer camry's work under the same principal.

Jim on February 16, 2016:

Great write-up!

What year Camry is this for?


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