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Five Common Brake Problems in Cars

Five Most Common Brake Problems

Brake problems can be daunting if you don't know what's causing them. Fear of the unknown causes anxiety. You have questions like: Will my brakes fail? Are they safe? Can I drive my car? Should I drive my car?

Here are five of the most common brake problems I run into, starting with the most serious. It's good to understand what the cause of your problem might be, before a mechanic starts talking about the need to replace this or that. If you don’t find your issue here, look also at my article on brake noises, look through the comments at the end, or leave a comment yourself telling your story.

  1. Soft brake pedal
  2. Car pulls to one side
  3. Steering wheel shakes when brakes are applied
  4. Brake pedal pulses up and down
  5. Whole car shakes when brakes are applied

Parts of the Brake System

In case these terms are new to you, real quick, I'll tell you that to stop the car, the master cylinder sends out fluid through tubes under pressure to drive a pincher (a “caliper”) that presses a “pad” or “shoe” against a metal disc (“rotor”) or drum. Most modern brakes have rotors; older ones have drums, especially in the rear.

1. Soft Brake Pedal

A soft brake pedal is a MAJOR brake issue. If your brake pedal feels squishy, "like stepping on a plum," and won't stop on the way down unless you pump it, or the brake pedal sinks to the floor with little or no resistance, you have a dangerous situation and should NOT drive any further! If you do, it could be a matter of minutes until you smash into something.

When the brake pedal gets soft or sinks to the floor, it's generally due to a leak in the braking system, most commonly the master cylinder leaking internally or externally.

The first thing you should do is check your brake fluid--look in your owner's manual to see how.

Brake fluid reservoir.  if your brake pedal is soft; first check the fluid level to determine if you have a leak in the braking system.
Brake fluid reservoir. if your brake pedal is soft; first check the fluid level to determine if you have a leak in the braking system. | Source

A master cylinder may fail in two ways: internally or externally. If the brake fluid reservoir is full and there are no signs of leaks, the problem is usually an internal problem that you can’t identify just by looking at the master cylinder. Don't drive the car in any case; there is something wrong with your brakes if the pedal is soft.

It's worth grabbing a flashlight and looking to see whether the master cylinder is leaking visibly. If it is, you should be able see the fluid on the carpet under your dash, just over your brake pedal. The pictures below show the master cylinder under the brake pedal.

Location of the Master Cylinder

The master cylinder, where it attaches to the brake pedal. If the master cylinder is leaking externally, you will see fluid dripping from the place where the rod goes into the cylinder.
The master cylinder, where it attaches to the brake pedal. If the master cylinder is leaking externally, you will see fluid dripping from the place where the rod goes into the cylinder. | Source
A better idea of where the master cylinder is located in relation to the brake pedal.
A better idea of where the master cylinder is located in relation to the brake pedal. | Source

The only fix I recommend for a faulty master cylinder is to replace it with a new one. You shouldn't waste your valuable time trying to rebuild it. It's a vital component in your car; leave it to the pros. You wouldn’t pack your own parachute on your first jump, would you?

2. Car Pulls to One Side When Braking

A car that pulls to one side can be annoying and also dangerous. This braking problem can caused by several different things, even the tires (see below), but the most common cause is a frozen caliper. Over time, a caliper can freeze up gradually, a process that can go unnoticed for a long period of time.

One way a caliper can freeze up is by the piston on the caliper being stuck in its bore. If the dust boot that protects the piston from the elements gets torn, water and debris will penetrate the metal in the caliper and cause rust and corrosion. If the piston is stuck, and the fluid pressure can't push it back into the bore easily, the pressure on the pads will be uneven and the car will pull. To fix this problem you will need to replace the caliper.

Another possibility is that the pistons got bent, during a brake job or a car accident, and can't move freely any more, causing the caliper to bind and limiting the amount of pressure to the pads.

The caliper can also freeze up if the caliper slide pins have lost lubrication because they have not been maintained properly. If the slide pins are your problem, they need to be cleaned and lubricated or replaced. You can buy an overhaul kit for calipers, but they are hard to find and your caliper may not be worth bringing back to life. Buying a new caliper may cost more but you will make up the cost with the time you save. Been there, done that!

The Caliper

Caliper slide pins need to move freely
Caliper slide pins need to move freely | Source
The caliper piston needs to move back into its bore with no binding.
The caliper piston needs to move back into its bore with no binding. | Source

Other Causes of a Pull to One Side When Braking

A faulty proportioning valve or master cylinder could also cause a pull to one side when braking; this is unusual but it does happen. Most braking systems work on a diagonal braking design for safety reasons; that is, the left front and right rear brakes work together and so do the right front and left rear. That way, if there is a leak in one part of the system, it should only affect one front brake and one rear brake. If this is what is going on, you need to identify and replace the faulty part.

A pull when braking may also have nothing to do with brakes. Bad front tires, or broken belts in a front tire, could cause it. Any pull caused by unevenly worn tires will be amplified when you step on the brakes. The tires' contact surfaces expand when you brake, thus putting more pressure on the bad tire and causing the pull to worsen. Replacing your tires will fix this, or you could try rotating your front tires to the rear of the vehicle.

3. Steering Wheel Shakes When Brakes Are Applied

This is a very common brake issue on all makes and models: when you’re driving at highway speeds and you apply your brakes, the steering wheel shakes.

There are many possible causes of this shaking, including the front rotors being warped, hot spots (slight irregularities) on your rotors caused by excessive heat, or pad impressions. If your car sits for long periods without moving, moisture from rain or high humidity causes your rotors to rust, except for the patch of rotor surface where the pads rest. This patch of uneven rotor surface is called a pad impression and will cause the brakes to pulsate.

This brake pulsation can be fixed very easily by having your rotors resurfaced (which is cheaper) or replaced (more expensive). You can resurface the rotors if they are still thick enough. Every rotor has a "minimum spec" for thickness, usually stamped on the rotor near the hub where the lug nuts are. The rotor needs to be measured at the thinnest point with a micrometer or vernier caliper to determine whether it can be resurfaced or not.

Steering Wheel Vibration When Braking

An intermittent noise when braking lightly, as in the video below, could also be related to an uneven surface on the rotors.

4. Brake Pedal Pulses Up and Down When Applying Brakes

If every time you apply your brakes, your brake pedal pulses up and down, the problem is usually caused by the rotors being warped or out of true. As rotors age, they go through the heating and cooling process thousands of times, so it's inevitable for them to lose their shape or trueness. If you do a lot of highway driving and you happen to be hard on your brakes, you will probably run into this problem many times in the life of your car.

The fix for this brake problem is simple: resurfacing the rotors, if they are still thick enough (see section 3 above), or replacing them if they are not. If you do either of these processes, and your brake pads are more than half worn, it’s worth it to just replace the pads at the same time for the peace of mind it will give you; pads wear out frequently (they are a consumable item) and you might as well deal with them while in the neighborhood.

EBC Brakes DP6993 6000 Series Greenstuff Truck and SUV Brake Pad
EBC Brakes DP6993 6000 Series Greenstuff Truck and SUV Brake Pad

EBC makes quality brake pads that don't make much noise.

 

A Scraping Noise After a Brake Job May Be Easy to Fix

5. Whole Car Shakes When Brakes Are Applied

If your whole car shakes when your brakes are applied, it could be just your rear brakes. As a rule of thumb, shaking caused by a problem in the front end of the car will be felt in the steering wheel, while shaking in the rear will seem to affect the whole car.

To determine if your rear brakes are the problem, you need to test them in isolation. One way to test your rear drum brakes is to apply the parking brake slightly while driving, because the parking brake uses the drum brakes in the rear. You can do this test if your emergency brake handle is near the center console and it is the style that you pull up with your hand. Note: I don’t recommend pulling up on the emergency brake handle at high speeds, it can cause your rear brakes to lock up and send the vehicle into a spin causing death or serious injury!

To do this test, drive your car in a remote location with no traffic at a speed of about 30 miles an hour. Push and hold the release button on the end of the emergency brake handle; this is so the emergency brake does not lock into place and can be released easily. Meanwhile, pull up on the handle just enough to feel the rear brakes grab slightly. If your rear drums are the cause of the brake pulsation, you will feel the pulsation at this time, and the car will shake when the emergency brake is applied.

If this is your problem, then the fix is to resurface the rear drums or replace them. Again, you will have to measure the drums to determine if they can be resurfaced or not.

If you have rear disc brakes, this procedure may not work because some makes and models have a separate emergency brake, which is connected not to the rear rotor and caliper, but to a special drum inside the rear rotors with a separate braking system. If you have this type of rear braking system, it is almost impossible to isolate the rear brakes.

Closing Thoughts

Hopefully this information will help you (and your mechanic) decide where to start when fixing your problem. When you are in a crisis situation like a brake problem, some mechanics will take advantage of the customer and over-sell the work that really needs to be done. There are only about nine evil mechanics in the world, they just move around a lot!

If you found this information useful, why not share it, for example on Facebook or Twitter using the "Like" or "Tweet" buttons at the top of the page. Thank you for all your help :)

More on Brakes by Eddie Carrara

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Comments 506 comments

ldabney50 5 years ago

I have a 1998 Oldsmobile aurora with rear disk brakes, the problem I'm having is the left rear brake caliper sticks, the caliper, rotor,pads,rubber brake line was changed i have also changed the brake fluid the best i can.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 5 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Idabney, If you have changed all those parts and you caliper is still sticking, it sounds like it's a blockage of some kind. The brake fluid is getting to the caliper but is not backing out of the caliper. Unless the caliper you installed is faulty, your problem could be the master cylinder, a kinked brake line, or a blockage in the brake line itself. The first thing I would do is inspect the brake line from the caliper to the master cylinder, check it for damage, if everything looks ok then I would remove the brake line at the master cylinder and then at the caliper and blow compressed air through it to insure there is no blockage. If everything seems ok, I would change the master cylinder. It sounds like a lot of work but it beats throwing parts at it and spending money needlessly. It's called process of elimination. Hope this helps, let me know.


Robert 4 years ago

I have a 2005 Pontiac Grand am. I have replaced the front rotors pads and calipers due to the passenger side wearing through pads in about 2 months. I replaced everything on both sides and they still wore out again within 3 months. Any ideas on what can be causing this?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

hi Robert,

Well there is not much left to change, so it's a toss up between the proportioning valve, master cylinder or a restricted brake line. I think we can rule out the brake line because you had to of bled the brakes, so that leaves the master cylinder or proportioning valve.

I'm not sure if you have ABS but I don't believe that would cause your problem. You might have got a defective caliper but what are the chances of that?

The first thing I would do is jack up that wheel and see if it spins freely,

if it does, run the engine and pump the brakes a few times and see if it causes the wheel to seize up,

if that's OK take it for a drive and heat the brakes up by using them a few time to stop the vehicle under heavy braking conditions like coming off the highway. Once the brakes are hot, jack it up again, and check the wheel to see if it spins freely. Let me know what you find, this is the only way to tell if your wheel is freezing up. Take care for now Robert.


jelle 4 years ago

Make sure your brake shoes are spaced evenly so they arent constantly touching the rotor.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hello Jelle,

Is that a known problem on a 2005 Pontiac Grand Am? Robert was talking about front brake pads, are you talking about rear brake shoes? If you have some information on this problem, that would be great, thanks.


jermey 4 years ago

I got new brake and rotors and car still shakes hard on braking. Wheel has sise to side play. Could it be a wheel bearin


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jermey,

If the steering wheel has side to side play or wobble, it's probably a broken belt in a front tire or a bald tire. I would have your tires cheched out for visual damage, a bent rim will cause that as well, if everything looks ok have your tires rotated and balanced, and see if that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Take care for now.


james 4 years ago

I have an automatic gear Golf 3 and all of a sudden the hand brake light came on and i took it to my mechanic and he told me it was my rear brake lining or pad,i don't really know.But after changing it,the car has been freezing (dragging) ie finding it dificult to move freely thereby making the care rev high before engaging the gear....please what could be the problem?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi James,

It's possible you have a frozen emergency brake cable, do you use the hand brake at all? If the cable is frozen, the emergency brake will not release completely causing the emergency brake to drag. I recommend bringing it back to the mechanic and show them what you are experiencing, then ask them to discount the repair you came in for originally. Let me know what happens James, or if you have any other questions, I'll be right here.


james 4 years ago

I think the hand brake is frozen because it is very strong and besides the hand brake light is showing on the dash board...i have driven the car for about 45km hope it has not damaged other thing?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi James,

If you damaged anything, I believe the mechanic will have to eat the repair because that's the problem you went in for and they sold you something else, plus, the mechanic should have checked the e brake operation before returning the car to you.

Bring it back to them, or if you don't think it's safe to drive without more damage, call them and have them send a tow truck, no charge. Keep me up to date on this one, and if you need answers, I'll be right here.


sam 4 years ago

I have a 2002 hyundai elantra...I brought my car in because I thought my front brakes were going bad.. It turns out my drums are completely rusted and my rotors are chipped but my pads themselves have 60% left. When I press my brakes though, my pedal goes all the way to the floor. Can rusted drums and cracked rotors cause this? (The mechanic told me at first it shouldn't but then later said it will cause my pedal to go down further) Or should I be more concerned with the possibility of my master cylinder going bad?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sam,

I would get a second opinion, a master cylinder will cause the brake pedal to go to the floor, rear brake shoes that are out of adjustment could also cause a soft brake pedal. Frozen front calipers slide pins or pistons could also cause a soft brake pedal. So there are three possible problems, that's why I suggest getting a second opinion asap, if it's a master cylinder, you could lose your brakes completely, I'm not trying to scare you, just prepare you. Let me know what you find out on the second opinion when you have a minute, I'm very curious, thanks Sam, take care for now.


Sam 4 years ago

I took it to a different place and they also said that I needed to replace my rotors and drums before determining anything else. They checked my Master cylinder and the pressures were fine. But unfortunately now my calipers are frozen...which is another 400 dollars..I wonder if it was my calipers the whole time? Though I feel as though someone should have noticed my calipers were frozen before. What a mess!


walter 4 years ago

I have 1996 rang rover I changed my breaks but now fluid is leakindg from under the resavoir cap is it possible I have air I'm my line


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sam,

I undersand that your rotors and drums were in poor condition, but that would not cause a soft brake pedal. As far as the calipers, there is no way know if there frozen just by looking at them, but they could have checked them before replacing the rotors and drums, so they could have given you an accurate estimate up front on the cost of repairs.

Did you already replace the calipers? They should be able to discount the repair a little because they didn't fix the problem you went in for, it's BS that they said you have to replace the rotors and drums first, they didn't do a thorough brake inspection. Keep me updated when you have time Sam, it really ticks me off when mechanics do that kind of stuff, I wish they would just do there job and diagnose it properly. Sorry for the rant, take care for now :)


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Walter,

No, the fluid is from when you squeezed the caliper piston back into the caliper, it will push the fluid back into the reservoir, most likely you have topped off the brake reservoir once when the pads were getting low, so the extra fluid is now spillith over :) How do your brakes feel, does it feel normal when you step on the brake pedal with the car running? let me know Walter.


william 4 years ago

my suburban dies when i hold my brakes and my rpms drop when im pushing them plus I hear a hissing sound


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

hi William,

It sounds like you have a leak in you brake vacuum booster. When there is a leak in the booster, it causes a vacuum leak to the engine, that's why the RPM's drop and the engine dies, it's getting to much air. All you have to do is replace the vacuum booster :) If I can help in any other way William, I'll be right here.


william 4 years ago

so which one do I change the vacuum are the booster


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

It's the big black round canister behind the master cylinder, you have to remove the master cylinder in order to remove the vacuum booster. (one unit)The vacuum booster boosts your braking power with vacuum from the engine, you'll notice a big vacuum line going to the vacuum booster, from the intake manifold. Let me know if this helps William.


kev 4 years ago

i have a 2004 vauxhall astra enjoy and it has a slow brake fluid leak on the back left wheel it was leaking when i first got the car but just stopped doing it but has recently just started doing it again how do i fix this


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kev,

First you need to know what's leaking, if it's a brake line, it needs to be replaced, if it 's a caliper, it need to be replaced,if it's a wheel cylinder, it needs to be replaced. You cannot patch a leak in a brake system, the brake system is using extreme pressure when applying the brakes and no patch job will do. I recommend getting it fixed asap.

A few questions, how do you know it's a brake fluid leak? Is your brake fluid low? Do you have a soft pedal? Let me know Kev.


kev 4 years ago

cheers for advice eddie i have just had new cylinders and a new set of shoes fitted on the side that was bust however scince i have had it fixed theres a constant screecing noice which worsens everytime i press the brakes the mechanic told me it will go away after 20 to 30 miles is he pulling my leg or is he rite


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kev,

I don't believe the noise will go away, the mechanic may have installed something wrong. Drive it 20-30 miles and see, if it doesn't go away, bring it back and have them fix it. Let me know what happens Kev, I'm interested to hear the results.


kev 4 years ago

cheers pal will do


bigjt18 4 years ago

I usually do my own brakes, but the front brakes would drag after driving a couple miles, the brake pedal would get real high and I would bleed them to relieve the pressure, after a couple of calipers and pads I took it to the shop and they again did calipers pads and rotors and 1 leaking brake hose, picked up car and same prob. took it back and they said I needed a master cylinder and again same prob. then they said to stop driving or to replace both calipers and hoses again, so I went along only to have the same prob. the only thing left is the metal brake lines right? Well b4 the master cyl, I did mention that I thought it was maybe a clogged line, so know I'm out of $$ after all these apparently unneeded repairs and stuck where I was in the beginning. I called the shop and told the owner and still waiting for a reply. Any suggestions? I'm broke and lost.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Bigjt,

I once had a brake light switch at the brake pedal installed wrong that caused the brake to drag, it got worst after driving a few miles because the brake fluid would heat up and expand, this would cause the brakes to drag even worst. I recommend checking the brake light switch at the brake pedal, make sure it's not putting pressure on the brake pedal, you'll never know it's out of adjustment unless you check it. Check it and let me know what you find, if it's OK, we will look into it a little deeper.


bigjt18 4 years ago

Thank you for the quick reply,

the brakes do not always drag, sometime not for 10 mi of driving, the repair shop did check the brake light switch on initial inspection, I got in there also and can see nothing wrong, the brakes work perfect after bleeding then after 2-10mi of driving the brake pedal works it's way to the top and brakes start to drag and when I stop and bleed them you can hear the caliper release then it drives fine for another 2-10mi. I've gone through 3 calipers on one side and 2 on the other in last 6 mo. and 3 sets of brake pads, a master cyl, and brake hoses twice. The car is 25 yrs old but only 81k miles. I have owned this car for 6 yrs and the brakes have always been perfect until about 7 months ago this started.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Bigjt,

When you start the engine, is there any free play at the top of the brake pedal (free movement in the pedal before the brakes are applied)There should be about 1/2 inch of free play, if not, something is out of adjustment like the brake light switch, push rod inside the brake booster, or the rod going to the brake pedal. Let me know, and everything is OK, we can look deeper.


bigjt 4 years ago

Yes, there is plenty of free play in the pedal, it only works it's way up after driving several miles then the dragging starts and will continue to get worse until I stop and let pressure off the bleeders, usually you can hear the caliper release when I do this. Then the brake pedal once

again has plenty of play till I drive awhile, rinse & repeat.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Bigjt,

There are only a few components in a brake system, and you have already replaced most of them. The only other component I didn't mention is the proportioning valve. I didn't mention it because it's rare they fail, in fact, I have never replace one in my entire mechanics career.

The brake fluid is not returning to the master after the brake are applied, so something is stopping/blocking it from returning, you already replace the master cylinder, so we can rule that out. I would replace the proportioning valve, it's the only other component in the system that will cause this problem, so replace it and let me know if it works. Thanks for all you feedback Bigjt, I really appreciate it.


Angie 4 years ago

My ABS light came on andmy brake light at the same time the other day when i got home than today when i got in it to drive it it seems like it can get into gear and ou know how fast you are going isn't working what can be the problem ihave a 2001 dodge durango mangum slt v8 no 4 wheel drive please i need help


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Angie,

It sounds like your brake fluid is low, that would be the first thing you should check, and I think your trying to tell me that your speedometer is not working? That is probably a separate issue. Let me know if the brake fluid is low Angie.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Barry,

It should get hot, it's connected to the brake rotor. Is there a problem with it?


Kamalgolf 4 years ago

Hi,

I wonder if you can help me, my brake pedal on my golf seems to travel lower than normal and feels a little spongy. The mechanic checked the brakes and said I needed new pads and showed me the pads on the car which had been worn to their minimum. But after the replacement there had been no change in the pedal, I would have thought new pads would have made the pedal travel a little higher and make the brakes much sharper, instead the pedals still feels spongy and isn't sharp. The mechanic seems to think this is because I have new pads and they need to be worn in ???? I remember when I used to tap my brakes the car would stop but now I have to push the pedal rather more for the car to stop, oh and he has said the master cylinder and the slave cylinders are fine with no leaks. Sorry for the long essay!!

Thanking you in advance

Kam


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kam,

Do you know if the rear brakes are drum or disc brakes? If the rear drum brakes are out of adjustment, it can cause a low brake pedal. Another cause of a low brake pedal is if the caliper slide pins are frozen, if the pins are frozen in the calipers, the caliper does not move freely and return to it normal resting position, it stays extended and the caliper piston has to travel further than normal to apply pressure to the pads, this will cause the soft brake pedal feeling. I would have the caliper slide pins checked by a reputable mechanic.

With new brake pads, the brakes will not grab as good as seasoned pads, but you shouldn't have a soft pedal.

Let me know what you find Kam, or if you have any other questions, I'll be right here.


beach taxi 4 years ago

I have a pe ford windstar...last night both of my front brakes froze up.....my peadle was pushed up in the air....is it my brake booster


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Beach Taxi,

I have never heard of that happening before, what exactly do you me by both front brakes froze up ( locked up so the wheels don't spin?) If your brake pedal is extremely hard to push, then I would say something happened to the brake booster, like it lost vacuum or has a major vacuum leak, does your engine idle OK? or does it want to stall? Let me know .


Kam 4 years ago

Hi Eddie,

Thanks for your comments, the calliper pins seems to be ok and the car does stop without any issues, maybe it's just me because I regularly drive an Audi and the not the VW ( dads car) I asked the question for.

However, if I gently press the pedal while the car is stationary and leave it there, I can feel the pedal ever so slightly pulsating. Is this normal ?

Thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kam,

No that is not normal, but maybe your feeling a vibration from something else, is there any noise associated with the pulsing?


parmar 4 years ago

hi i have 2005 hyundai elantra ve . there is water leaking under the engine when i satart the the car for a while there becomes a pool of water i cant understand .water level in radiator os full then from where it is coming can any body help me please.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Parmar,

Is the air conditioning on when you see the water leaking?

Is it early morning with dew on the vehicle?

Have you used the windshield washer at all when you see this puddle?

How long after you start the car, do you see this puddle of water?

Give me more information and maybe I can help you better, thanks Parmar.


gladys 4 years ago

hi .i have a 1996 hyundai. when the car is in park i here this really loud noise in side the car. what could this be.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Gladys, if you can give me a little more detail I might be able to help.

Is the car running?

Is it a rattle?

Does it sound like a rumble like from the exhaust?

Does it feel like something is hitting the bottom of your car?

Is it a metal sound?

Let me know Gladys


Nita 3 years ago

I have a 2007 Honda Accord with about 64000 + miles on it. Yesterday for the first time it made a loud "POP" noise as I was closing to a stop. What could possibly be the problem. The mechanic told me in November I need to get my back brakes redone. I have a hard time trusting mechanic at the dealer.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Nita,

Has anything changed in the vehicle, do you notice it drives or brakes differently? Let me know, the more information you give me, the better answer I'll have for you :)


Lamar Gilbert 3 years ago

I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan. Just recently had front pads and rotors turned. When I get ready to stop now my van will go dead sometimes. The idling is now right. A stupid question is it possible that a brake job could affect your engine idling.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Lamar,

The brake booster uses vacuum from the engine every time you step on the brake pedal, the vacuum from the engine helps assist the master cylinder while braking. If the brake booster has a vacuum leak in the diaphragm, stepping on the brake pedal would stall your engine, you would also hear a hissing noise under the dash or under the hood near the master cylinder.

You could test this by pinching off the vacuum line going to the brake booster with a pair of needle nose vice grips, then step on the brake pedal to see if your engine still stalls, do not drive it like this though, your brake pedal would be very difficult to press and the vehicle would not stop very easily.

If pinching off the brake booster vacuum line fixes the problem, you probably have a damaged brake booster and it will need to be replaced. Let me know if you have any other questions, and let me know what you find, I'm very curious, thanks Lamar.


Tiffany C 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

I have a Jag X-type 04. Two weeks ago I started the car, backed up and couldn't get the brake pedal to go down. The car stopped but very slowly. This has happened three times now and after the initial back up and no brake or hard brake the brakes seem to work fine. Today I got the hard brake or slow brake few moments after starting the car but in drive and then the Engine Malfunction light came on. I've read online to try and "bleed out" the brakes but my car won't let me. When the car is off the brakes are completely hard and when I turn the car on the brakes "feel" normal. I did notice tonight a hissing sound when I brake with the car on. My engine sounds normal and is working just fine, no stall. Could the "hard brakes" cause an Engine Malfunction light to turn on? Should I stop driving the car until it's serviced? Any information would be greatly appreciated.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Tiffany,

It sounds like the brake booster has a problem, possibly a clogged vacuum line, defective check valve in the vacuum line or the brake booster is just leaking all together. It's normal for the brake pedal to feel hard when the engine is off, but only after pushing the brake pedal a couple of times.

The brake booster hold vacuum after the engine is turned off, but once you push the brake pedal a few times, the vacuum bleeds off. The one way valve installed in the vacuum line, prevents the vacuum from bleeding back into the motor from the brake booster after the engine is turned off.

You said you're hearing a hiss noise while braking when the engine is running, is it a constant hissing when your foot is on the brake pedal or only when the brake pedal is being depressed and going towards the floor? If the hiss noise is constant, you have a leak. And your engine would be running rough when pressing the brake pedal, almost stalling, and it could (possibly) set you check engine light.

I would have the Jag check out by a Jag tech if possible, they are a breed of their own, and there could be a service bulletin on the problem (common problem).

Let me know if I confused you enough, lol. If you have any other questions or feedback, let me know. If you have time Tiffany, could you come back and give me feedback on what you found, thanks, I really appreciate it :)


Tiffany C 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

The hissing sound fluctuates with the pressing of the brake pedal. Meaning the hissing sound is light but as I begin to press the brake harder it gets louder and when I let off the brake the hissing sound eases up and then stops completely.

I've never noticed my engine almost stall. It does rev down pretty loudly but I don't think it sounds like or feels like a stall, I thought it sounded kind of sexy actually, but what the hell do I know!! lol

I've talked with quite a few people about this and your answer is right in line with everyone else's. I will be going to the dealer in a week or so and will let you know what ends up happening. For now I'll be driving my trusty ole' Saturn. Thanks for the quick response. =)


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Tiffany,

The engine rpm's drop (rev down) because of the vacuum leak, (Sexy) ?? OK, I'll go with that :) lol . I have always had a thing for cars that growl a little, read my poem about my Mistress of Metal ( you can find it on my profile page) and you'll know what I mean... :) Thanks Tiffany.


Howard S. profile image

Howard S. 3 years ago from Dallas, Texas, and Asia

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, so it seems like the master cylinder cap should be airtight. However, at least one of my cars seems to have a bit of a breather hole there in conjunction with the sensor wires. Can you explain that mystery?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Howard,

Yes most brake master cylinders have a vent, it allows the brake fluid to expand and contract with temperature. When applying the braked, the brake fluid gets very hot and it need to go somewhere, so it will flow back into the brake master reservoir, if there was no vent , the brake fluid would not be able to flow back and forth. Think of the vent you have on your house plumbing, if there was no vent, nothing would ever drain because of the pressure in the lines.

I hope this answers your question Howard, and if I can help you with any other questions, I'll be right here :)


Howard S. profile image

Howard S. 3 years ago from Dallas, Texas, and Asia

Still doesn't make sense. The rubber cap flexes like a diaphragm to compensate for changes in volume. But if air comes and goes, so does humidity, which contaminates the brake fluid, reducing the boiling point.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

You're exactly right Howard,

That's why the brake fluid turns green in the reservoir, because of the moisture in the brake fluid. That's why it's recommend by the manufacturers to replace brake fluid about every 30k miles. You're spot on Howard :)


brian 3 years ago

i have a 2004 GMC SIERRA. i went today and had my rotors turned and new wagner brake pads installed. now my truck feels like the pads are grabbing. is this normal until the pads wear in?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Brian,

What do you mean by 'it feels like the pads are grabbing"? Are you talking about when you step on the brakes or while your're driving?


Sparrow 3 years ago

I have a 2005 Pontiac Montana and I have been having trouble with my brakes they started to grind pretty bad on the left. Just the other day I had to drive the car anyway but I couldn't back out of my garage unless I hit the gas really hard. Do u know what would cause this? Yesterday, my husband went to take it to have repairs done but when he backed out he heard a loud noise so he stopped and he pull it back in and something leaked from that area but we are not sure where it came from or if we should force it to back up.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sparrow,

What happened is, you wore down the brake pad so much that there was no brake material left, the the metal part of the brake pad that the brake pad is glued to got jammed between the caliper and rotor. (it was falling out) that's why you had to hit the gas to move the vehicle.

The last attempt to drive the vehicle was the straw that broke the camels back. The metal part of the pad slipped out of the caliper completely and then the caliper piston popped out of the caliper beyond the piston seal and now you're leaking brake fluid. Not safe to drive! Wasn't safe to drive with the noise ( FYI :)

You will probably need CPR now (caliper, pads, and rotors) and when you get the bill for the job, you will need CPR (Cardiopulmonary resuscitation) I will cost a lot!

As soon as you hear brakes making noise, get it checked out, it will save you money! Let me know what happens Sparrow, send me some feedback and let me know if what what I explained is what really happened, thanks, I really appreciate it.


jen 3 years ago

hey, I have replaced my master cyclinder twice in the last two months. And guess what the brake is back to floor and I can barely stop. Is it possible it is something else? And also I replaced brakes and rotors cause they said they were bad. This is not a week later and its happening again and its a brand new part. Im very worried to drive this car


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jen,

After replacing the master cylinder, did the pedal ever feel good? Or does it feel soft right out of the gate? Let me know Jen.


jen 3 years ago

It 's funny the first time they fixed it they said brakes needed to be bled and then I needed more brake fluid. that lasted a month til this time and it was almost a week but last week the line for power steering broke and I had to fix that may not be related but I figured I would mention it.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jen,

What you need to do is check the brake fluid reservoir and see if there is fluid in it. If it's low on fluid, it means you have a leak. So check to see if the reservoir is full and get back to me, thanks :)


Tiffany C. 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

About two weeks ago I asked for some advice about my Jag X-type 04. Well, I literally just drove back from the Jag dealer. **sniffles** my poor wallet!!! lol Here's what happened...

First they told me it was a cracked and leaking valve on the brake booster. They repaired that and but the problem was still there. So, then they told me and I quote..."brake booster internal diaphragm leaking at mid pedal".

Well...Cha Ching!! $$$ lol Had to replace the brake booster.

All is well now... my wallet is empty but I have my Jag back. Thank you for all your help!! ~Tiffany


shrimpysms26 3 years ago

Hey man question for you. I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee pioneer and every time I apply my breaks on a hard crank to my steering wheel in both directions, my breaks harden up and the car wont stop. then when i straighten out i loose complete breaking power. We just replaced the master cylinder today and bled the breaks and and its still doing it. We think its the vacuum booster going out i just want another option on this before i go out and buy something i dont need.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Tiffany, welcome back, and thanks for the feedback, very cool :) it's a simple test to diagnose that problem, I hope you didn't pay for the first repair because they diagnosed it wrong. Anyways, glad you got it fixed, Jags are not cheap to fix. If you ever need any advice, I'll be right here, take care Tiffany :)


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Shrimpy,

I would check the front rubber flex hoses going to each caliper, if you have done front brakes recently someone may have twisted a rubber flex hose, it easy to make that mistake.

You can check the brake booster by applying vacuum to it with a vacuum pump, and see if it holds vacuum, if the vacuum leaks, the diaphragm inside the booster is broken.

Let me know what you find on this one Shrimpy, it's got me curious, thanks.


Shrimpysms26 3 years ago

Hey Eddie, so what happened is that it wasn't the vacuum boost it was the break line being pitched by a my shock that was broken. The shock was stuck between the caliper and the frame of the car. thanks for your help

Shrimpy AKA Stephan


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Stephan, That's awesome, not that your shock is broken, but the fact that you figured it out :) I'm glad your came here first before you spent your money on parts you don't need, it sucks spending money and time fixing the problem, only to find you still have the same problem. Glad I could point you in the right direction :)

I wouldn't mind if you shared a link to this page on facebook, you never know who could use some automotive advice. If you ever need any advice, you can find me here on Hubpages, I also have another site called Simple-Car-Answers It's a .com, but I can't put a link in the comment box HaHa, you can find me there as well. Thanks for the feedback Stephan, it really is priceless, take care.


Chris 3 years ago

Hi there mate, come across your link and require your knowledge. Me and my misse bought a new car last nov, and when she drove mine she said your brakes are sharp. Anyway, didn't really hink much of it then i took her car out last sat and my god, when the brake pedal is pressed nothing happened till i got to about half way. We brought it with a free 1 year guarantee and want to know if you think this is serious enough to be covered as most guarantees don't cover brake pads, shoes and to be honest, i don't want to drive it about an hour to get to sheffield for them to look at it as i think its dangerous and unsafe. Do you think it could be what you mentioned in your top 5 common problems? Many thanks in advance


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Chris,

If the brake pedal is going down about half way, and then stopping normal , the brakes may just need an adjustment. Can you tell me if the brake pedal sinks to the floor if you hold it with light pressure? Do you have drum brakes in the rear or are the disc brakes?

I'll wait to hear from you, thanks Chris.


Zoran 3 years ago

Hi friend, have a one question, my vehicle, Opel vectra 2004, loose break fluid liquid, but without any marks anywhere. What u think, check any where for any kind of leak, but nothing, any vehicle breaks slowly.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Zoran,

I would suspect the brake fluid is leaking inside your car, look at the rod/ boot coming from the master cylinder up under the dash, you will probably see drips on the carpet or the boot will be wet. If it's not leaking inside the car, it's most likely leaking inside the brake booster. Let me know what you find Zoran.


Zoran 3 years ago

Today I check inside the car, but nothing, no leaks, I don't know, not sure did I check brake booster, I will check, and thanks for answer, regards fro Macedonia


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Zoran,

The only way to check the brake booster is to remove the master cylinder. Does the pedal sink to the floor when it's pressed lightly and held?


Jake 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

I have a strange problem. when i press the brake pedal my left rear brake doesn't brake that well, the rest are fine. i can actually rotate the wheel with my hands applying some moderate force.

i have replaced the master cylinder and the wheel cylinder, checked for leaks and clogs yet nothing seems to help. the car is a peugeot 306 94.

thanks in advance!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jake,

Do you know if there is a proportioning valve in the brake system?

How does the brake pedal feel? Is it solid when you press and hold it?

I know this is a silly question, but I have to ask. Did you try adjusting the brake shoes? Sometimes the answer is the most obvious :)

Let me know Jake, thanks.


Jake 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

there is no proportioning valve, the pedal is solid although when the motor is still the pedal is higher then when its running, there is something like an inch or two of free travel to the pedal when the motor is running until it starts to brake the car , and yes the brake shoes are adjusted :)

thanks again!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jake,

Did you do all this work on the vehicle because of this problem, or is this a result of doing the work?


Jake 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

the work has been done because of the problem.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

OK Jake,

I would take a close look at all the flex lines in that brake line, it's possible one is bulging , other than that, you have me stumped. You're losing pressure to the wheel cylinder with all new parts, good flow through the line, no crushed brake lines, and the shoes adjusted.

Are you positive it's like that on only one side?

Take a close look at the flex line near the rear wheel when the suspension is hanging and when the suspension is on the ground, I think it has something to do with that flex line, let me know what you find Jake, thanks.


Zoran 3 years ago

After weekend,today I found ware is leak on break. Leak was on metal tube between back tires, and leak on the fuel tank , tube is repaired for now,until I found new one.Thanks for help,regards from Macedonia


Jake 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

just finished changing the brake drums and shoes, fix it right away!

guess it was a problem of wear and tear.

thank you for your help!

Best regards, Jake


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Zoran,

Leaking line? Glad you found it, that is potentially extremely dangerous. Macedonia? Awesome :) Thanks for the update Zoran, it's extremely important to me, take care.

Hi Jake,

Shoes and drums fixed your problem? Like I said, sometimes the most obvious is over looked :) I assumed (which I shouldn't have) you replace the shoes when you replaced the wheel cylinder, haha, guess I need to ask more questions. Glad you found the source of the problem Jake, BTW, Jake is my sons name :)

Thanks for the feedback, it's very helpful, and if you ever need any advice, you know where to find me, take care.

Don't forget to rate this article, you can do so right above the comments (thumbs up/down and useful, interesting, etc...) and I wouldn't mind if you hit the facebook like button at the top of the page, you never know who could use the information, thanks again.


Cicuta 3 years ago

I have a Focus 2000 with 68K miles. Recently it has developed a clunk noise in the rear of the car when I back up at the start of the day, no matter what time, then the noise goes away. I have examined the rear axle and look fine. My guess is the emergency brake system. If before backing up with the R engaged I rather let it roll back in Neutral (N) it does not make the noise afterwards even if I back up with R engaged. Anyone have any comments?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Cicuta,

Try letting the car sit without the emergency brake on, just leave it in gear so it doesn't roll, then see if the noise is still there, let me know what happens, thanks.


Vikram Singh 3 years ago

Hi, my car has its rotors replacement as vibrating during breaking, found i don't no it will get replaced or repaired but pointed out the problems.

What making a vibration in steering and frond seats during 70-80 km speed and not beyond and before this speed?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Vikram,

I recommend having your tires balanced first, if it continues to shake after the tire balance you will need to dig a bit deeper. Let me know if you have other questions, an once you get your tires balanced, could you come back here and let me know what happened? Thanks.


betbet 3 years ago

I have had 4 brake master cylinders installed on my 2001 Honda Accord (245,000 miles). 2 were done last year. One mechanic - I know used a "reworked unit". I went back to the dealership in December and had them install a new one. The problem is always a low break pedal. If I pump the brake once, I have more brakes...and it does not go low. Well now the one installed at the end of December 2012 (it is now April 2013) is now producing a "low" brake. I have no Shouldn't a Honda part - master cylinder - last more than 4 months????


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi betbet,

I don't think your problem is the master cylinder, I believe your problem is in the front caliper slide pins. When there is lack of lubrication on the slide pins, the caliper does not move freely causing excessive distance between the pads and the caliper piston. When this occurs, the caliper piston has to travel a greater distance to apply pressure to the pads, which in turn uses more fluid to perform the operation, causing a soft or low brake pedal feeling.

If the master cylinder were leaking, the brake pedal would slowly drop to the floor while applying light pressure to the pedal, like when you're sitting at a stop light. A low or soft brake pedal is usually cause by a brake component not moving freely due to lack of lubrication or due to lake of periodic adjustments. (rear drum brakes)

Stuck or frozen caliper slide pins are very common in Honda vehicles, or you may have frozen pistons as well. I recommend having a thorough front brake inspection first before going any further.

Let me know if this helps, and let me know what you find, I'm very curious, thanks :)


Brian Reaume 3 years ago

I have a 2001 Explorer Sport and when I apply the brakes the vehicle tends to stop and then move a few feet after. What exactly is the problem?


betbet 3 years ago

Ok. They have my car today. I have not heard from them. They said in December at the dealership that they inspected....and it was the master cylinder. Said something about the fluid to the front brakes (sorry - I can't remember his exact words) - caused by master cylinder. So..they replaced it. Just very frustrating to continue to have this problem. It started in 2009 - when based on what you are saying that was the master cylinder. I pushed the brake pedal all the way to the floor .... and prayed the car would stop.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Brian Reaume

I'm not exactly sure what you mean, are you taking your foot off the brake, or is the vehicle lunging forward like it's kicking back down into first gear late? Give me some more details about the problem and I'll have a better answer for you, thanks Brian.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

Just for the record, the brake fluid would not cause the master to fail, but using the wrong fluid would, but your entire brake system would be contaminated. The first master was probably bad by what you described, but I really think you have separate issues now, most likely the caliper pins or caliper pistons ( pins are ore common). Let e know what they find, and if you have questions about the repair, I can help so don't hesitate to ask :)


Brian Reaume 3 years ago

I hit the brakes (do not take my foot off) and the vehicle tends to stop and then it moves a little again before coming to a complete stop. I guess the best way to describe it is it feels like the brakes are slipping.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Brian,

It sounds to me like the transmission is dropping down into first gear as you come to a stop, kind of like a late down shift, does this sound about right? If not, does you brake pedal sink when this happens or is there anything else that happens at the same time like an idle drop or any kind of noise? Let me know, FYI, I'm back from vaca so my response wont take so long :) Thanks.


betbet 3 years ago

They kept my car last Friday unti Monday at 5 pm. Several people - including the Dealership Director....looked at and drove the car. They admit the brakes are "low". I have been told....not the master cylinder, not the calipher pins or caliper pistons....everything looks okay and checks out. They came back with it must be the ABS. The computer reads okay....but they think the ABS is leaking inside.

They have another man who has a 2005 Accord who has had similar issues. He got a junkyard ABS last year...and it has started to also fail. His "new ABS" will cost him around $1,100 in parts.

I am told for my 2001 - the ABS unit will be over $2,000. So...over a $2,000 part for a 2001 Accord with 245,000+ miles. I told them "NO". Why the discrepancy in parts costs????

Of course...the master cylinder work would have been "warranty work" for them - since they just replaced the part in December or January (I have to find the paperwork). I am going to get someone else to look at it.

By the way, I did get someone else to look at it before. They told me that it was the master cylinder.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

I have never seen an ABS pump cause a low brake pedal, nor will it, so don't replace the pump. You will never understand parts pricing, it is what it is, it's called supply and demand. I recommend having someone else take a look at it again.

You said you're using a OEM Honda master cylinder, right?

After the last master cylinder was installed, did the brake pedal feel normal?

Are you losing brake fluid at all, like is the level dropping in the reservoir?

Did they check the rear brake adjustment? (Drum brakes)

There is a push rod behind the master that can be adjusted and the height of it has a spec. but if it was out of adjustment you would consistently have a low brake pedal, even after a new on is installed.

Answer these questions for me and I talk to you soon :) Thanks.


betbet 3 years ago

Yes - the Honda dealer installed a OEM Honda master cylinder. It was installed either in late December 2012 or early January of 2013 (the paperwork is in the glove compartment). After that last master cylinder was installed (as all before - 4 total) - the brake pedal felt normal. They told me that they did a complete brake inspection - so I assume they checked everything. They had their "Director" drive and look at my car. They think the ABS is leaking internally. They said they had another gentleman wh ohad the same problme on a 2005. He went to a junkyard and had a used part - ABS put on his. They said it worked for 1 year...and now he has the same issue again.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

That ABS story sounds to me like BS, the ABS pump may have an internal leak, but that would not affect your normal braking, it would only affect ABS operation. I recommend getting a second opinion. One more thought, if the ABS pump had an internal leak, the brakes would never feel normal, even after replacing the master cylinder because the problem would still exist. Get a second opinion, it may cost you an hour in labor, but it's worth it. Let me know what happens, thanks :)


betbet 3 years ago

One more thing.....if I touch the petal, then let off, and touch again (essentially pump the brake once), it gets tighter again - not as low.

I am planning on getting someone else to look at it.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

That could be several different problems, I'll wait to hear what the second opinion says, I'm very curious.


betbet 3 years ago

Do you know of anyone in the Raleigh, NC area that you would recommend?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

So sorry, I know you must be frustrated, but I don't know anyone down there. I wish I had good contacts everywhere, but I don't :(


betbet 3 years ago

What could it be with me pumping the brake and it getting "tighter"? They have "bled" the brakes. They said they checked out everything. I don't want to spend huge amounts of $$s...getting someone else to check out with no ideas.


Florida Terri 3 years ago

I have a 2006 Chevy Silverado and yesterday when i put my foot on brake pedal there was a loud popping noise and then the pedal went almost to floor. Am able to stop but it requires quite a bit of leg pressure to do so. Could it be a hose from the booster or the booster itself.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

Some mechanics will tell you they have checked everything, but overlook the obvious, that's why I recommend a second opinion. The garage should only charge you for a brake inspection, which is about an hours labor.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Terri,

If it were the booster, you would hear a hissing noise, the brake pedal would be hard as a rock, and the engine idle would be erratic and almost stalling because of the vacuum leak. I recommend not driving your car and having it towed to a garage, it almost sounds to me like a brake pad slipped out of the caliper. Let me know what you fine, I would really appreciate it, thanks.


Woodrow Goldin profile image

Woodrow Goldin 3 years ago

A soft brake pedal seems to be the most common issue in older cars, I've had that problem come up with each of my last 3 cars within 3 months of buying them and they were all over ten years old. I just got the cylinder replaced on my car for that very reason.


Kristennnn 3 years ago

I have been having issues with my car pulling to the side. Also the front wheels seem to get really hot and sometimes produce a burning smell.When I come to a stop my car does not move forward at all when I let off of the brake. My car tends to slow down even when going down a hill, even If I put it in neutral it slows down, Any thoughts, ideas of what could be the issue?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Woodrow,

Yes, an internal leak in a master cylinder would definitely give you a soft feeling in the brake pedal :)


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hello Kristen,

I believe your front calipers are frozen, it could either be the slide pins or the pistons, either way I would have them checked right away before it causes more damage. Let me know what your mechanic says, and if you have any questions about what they say, you can find me right here :)


Kristennnn 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

Thank you for the quick response. I will be taking the car in on Friday to the same guy that changed my front breaks not too long ago, and hopefully get this problem taken care of.

I will keep you updated on what he says - I really appreciate your help!

Warmly,

Kristen


omaha bullock 3 years ago

I have just replaced brake pads on a 2005 Dodge Caravan before it went completely thru the pads and only to wear bars. (No groves on rotors) and no apparent leaks. The owner now claims he has to use a lot of pressure to get it it to stop. What could be wrong?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kristen,

How did the brake job go? Is your car all set?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Omaha Bullock,

Did you resurface the rotors or just do a pad slap? Sometimes it's takes a few hundred miles for the pads to set in. But there are a few things to check just to be safe. Make sure you didn't make one revolution with the caliper before installing it, if you did, you could have kinked or twist the flex brake line causing a fluid restriction to the caliper. Check the caliper slide pins, if they are not sliding freely, it can cause the caliper to bind. Make sure the piston is moving freely in the caliper, it could be binding up causing low brake pressure to the pads. Please let me know what you find, it helps other readers who have similar problems, so your feedback is very valuable, thanks.


Kristennnn 3 years ago

Hi Eddie - Thank you! Yes it was the calipers they both needed to be replaced. The brakes work just fine now, practically like new.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Sweet Kristen!!!! That's awesome, and thanks for the feedback, it really means a lot to me. If you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to find me ;) I wouldn't mind if you wanted to push that facebook button to the right either, lol, take care for now.


Milkman 3 years ago

I have a 2007 Pontiac G-5 when I put the car in reverse it feel like the brakes are applying and the car to a stop but while put the car in drive it feel like the brakes released and the car ride freely


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Milkman,

Have you done any work to the back brakes recently?

Are the rear brakes pad or shoes?

Let me know, thanks.


Jessica 3 years ago

Hi, My car is making a weird grinding noise when driving. Always there whether braking or not. My right front rotor does have a groove. Could that be the only problem? Thanks!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jessica,

Look at your wheels, is there a lot of brake dust mixed with fine metal particles, you may have an inner brake pad worn metal to metal. Or it's possible you have a small rock lodged between the rotor and backing plate causing a scraping. It would be a good idea to locate which wheel the noise is coming from and then just pull the wheel off and inspect it, it might be something as simple as the little rock or you may need brakes.

Let me know if this helps, or if you have more details or questions, I'll be right here :)


Tee Tee 3 years ago

Hey Eddie please help me... When I come to a complete stop my car shakes horrible... And when I'm driving I don't have to give the car gas it goes on it own without slowing down unless I break... When I put the car in park the engine races overtime..my speedometer just goes crazy when I'm driving... I know it's a lot but before I go spending crazy I need some kind of idea or stating point what could be going on... I have a 95 ford Taurus


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi TeeTee,

There is a lot going on here and I doubt the problems are related. The shake when slowing down is the front rotors most likely because your heating them up constantly with the other problem of your vehicle going on it's own. You can have them resurfaced is there is enough meat on them, or you can have them replace, that should fix that problem (Usually). I would have the throttle cable adjusted or at least looked at, or it could be carbon build up on the inside of the throttle body, one other thing to check is to make sure the floor mats are not jammed up under the gas pedal, it sounds silly but it a common problem. The speedo jumping and going crazy is probably a burnt instrument cluster, that sounds expensive, Yikes!! Let me know if this helps, you can live with the speedo jumping but the other two problems should be taken care of. Let me know how you make out TeeTee, thanks.


Tee Tee 3 years ago

Someone told me that the hose to the break booster could be look that can cause the car to shake and the engine to rev when in park... Is that true? Also I forgot to put in there that when I stop at a red light and apply brakes as soon as I take my foot of break its like the car is so eager to take off


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi TeeTee,

No, if the line to the brake booster had a large leak, as if it were disconnected, it would most likely cause your engine to stall or run rough, and the brake pedal would be very difficult to push. A small leak in the hose or booster may cause a high idle, a quick check for that would be to pull the vacuum line off the engine a plug the port on the intake, or just pinch off the hose near the intake with some vice grips. If the idle drops back to normal, you know you have a leak. If all is well, I recommend having the items mentioned in the last post looked at, and if everything looks ok there, have the mechanic check the intake manifold gasket. A small leak in the intake gasket can cause a high idle. Hope this helps TeeTee, let me know what you find, thanks.


Samuel 3 years ago

So I have a 2005 caddiac cts and for some reason my brakes randomly don't work. When I push the break down it pushes it back up and doesn't let me stop and makes a weird noise. I ran over a cement block thing the other when I was trying to park. It messed up my bumber. What should I do

The only time the breaks work is when the abs light comes on. It never does it when that light comes on.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Samuel,

It seems your ABS is working all the time, except when the light is on. When the ABS light comes on, it's telling you the ABS is disabled and there is a problem. So if your brakes are kicking back during normal braking, you may have a problem with one of the sensors or pick-up rings on the axle/bearing, most likely the wheel you hit the cement block thing with. I would have it checked right away, and tell the mechanic which wheel you hit the object with to speed up the diagnosis. Let me know that happens Samuel, thanks.


Mel Harmon profile image

Mel Harmon 3 years ago

Hi Eddie,

After my 1998 Toyota Sienna got" new brakes "(few dollars over $500) brakes worked fine but after about 100 miles began a clunking sound when I was slowing to a stop. I took the car back to the same guy and he said the rotors needed rounding. It happened again, I took it back again, he did the same. Always the brakes worked fine. The third time, I took it to another mechanic, he said the same thing, rounded the rotors and now it's happening again. Not EVERY time, but always when I'm SLOWLY coming to a stop, like at a stop light behind traffic. Both mechanics tell me they've never heard of this before, and they tell me they can find nothing wrong except the rotors s little bit out of round, so they blow off debris and round the rotors and I don't hear the sound again for a hundred miles or so.

It must be something to do with the last "new brake" job?

thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mel,

I'm sure the car has high mileage, and brakes work very hard to stop the vehicle. I suspect the calipers slide pins may have some wear (unless you have brand new calipers?) and as the rotors start to warp, the pins start to move in the calipers and cause the clunking noise because they don't fit tight in the caliper anymore. Keep in mind, this is only a guess, the pins would have to be inspected by a mechanic. The extra caliper to pin clearance is not dangerous, just annoying. Let me know if you have more questions or if you have more information you would like to share, thanks Mel :)


Mel Harmon 3 years ago

Yes, mileage is approaching 2K. We will get the pins inspected and will report back when done.

Thanks a million for your thoughts. We had run out of options and are very glad to hear it's not dangerous. You're right, it was VERY annoying.

Bahb


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mel,

Do you mean 200k? lol. Just keep in mind that without hearing the noise or driving the car, it's just a hunch, and if it is play in the pins, it's not dangerous, but expensive because it's not the pins that wear, it's the caliper casting, which means you need to replace the calipers.

I'll wait to hear back from you. One more thing, it should not cost an arm and a leg to have the brakes inspected :)


Lisa J 3 years ago

Hi,

This morning drove my car and as I pressed on the brakes exiting my driveway my brakes made a loud rubbing sound and the whole car shook, this continued for a few minutes until I drove the car and braked hard.

Could it just be the brakes freezing up?

I drive a 2008 Ford Fg


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Lisa,

That scenario is very common when the brake rotors are wet, like after a heavy rain or when you go through a big puddle, as long as the noise does not continue, I think your brakes were just very wet. Let me know if this sounds about right? Thanks Lisa.


Rob 3 years ago

It feels like only my front drivers side and rear passenger brakes work. It will still stop but it seems like their only at 50% capability. The brakes go more than halfway to the floor. Is this a caliper issue?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Rob,

The first thing I would do is check the fluid level, if that's ok, then I would have the caliper slide pins and pistons checked. If the fluid is low, you have a leak. Let me know if you have more info or more questions, thanks Rob.


Rob 3 years ago

It wasn't really low. It was definitely not at the maximum level. I added a bottle of brake fluid yesterday but it would have leaked more, right? I hope its just calipers


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Rob,

The brake fluid level will drop as the pads wear, and yeah, you would notice the fluid going down in the reservoir after driving it a few times. I would have the calipers checked and make sure the slide pins and pistons are moving freely. Let me know what you find Rob, thanks.


Rob 3 years ago

I will let you know what happens, thanks you are very knowledgeable and extremely helpful


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Sure Rob, no problem, and thank you. Hey, could you hit the Facebook like button for me, if you don't have a Facebook account, no problem, but it really helps me out if you do, thanks.


Rob 3 years ago

Fluid has dropped to the bottom of the reservoir. checking for leaks in the line tomorrow.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Rob, that should be easy to find, if you don't see any external leaks, check inside the car, under the dash, if you look up at your brake pedal, you'll see a rod attached to it from the master cylinder. If the master cylinder is leaking, the rubber boot that goes over the rod will be wet and dripping onto your carpet. Let me know what you find Rob, thanks :)


Rob 3 years ago

Found out that the one section of brake line the mechanic didn't replace from the master to the passenger side underneath the scratchguard. Guess it was too much for him to take it off after doing everything else he did


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Sounds like Murphy's law to me, lol, or just lazy :) Glad you found the leak though, I knew it would be easy to find. Take care Rob, and if you ever need any automotive advice, you kow where to find me.

Could you hit the Facebook like buttonn for me, I would really appreciate it :) Thanks.


billy 3 years ago

with wheels turned as far as they would go , ran up on a curb and that's when left front brake started sticking. changed left caliper, but it's still sticking, could it possibly have hurt the wheel bearing?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Billy,

If the wheel bearing is damaged, you would definitely hear noise coming from it, plus wheel bearing usually don't bind (usually). How do you know it's the front brake sticking? Did you remove the caliper and spin the wheel? doing this should tell you if it the brakes, or something else. Let me know Billy, thanks.


billy 3 years ago

left front wheel is getting hot and has a burning smell, changing brake hose as we speak.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

That was my next guess, I was thinking a brake line may have gotten pinched when you hit the curb. Let me know how things work out Billy, thanks :)


Teresa 3 years ago

After getting the rear brakes and rotors replaced on my 2003 impala the emergency brake doesn't catch. Could there be a connection or is it just a coincidence?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Teresa,

There is a definite connection, either the mechanic forgot to hook something back up or they forgot to adjust the e-brake. I would bring it back and have them fix it , no charge! Let me know what happens Teresa, and don't let them charge you :)


betbet 3 years ago

It has been a while...forgot to tell you what they said. They did a complete brake inspection. Kept my car for several days. Had their manager look at it. They eventually told me that my problem was very similar to another gentleman who has the same 2001 Accord as I do. They are not "definite"...but their best "guess" is that the ABS Modulator has gone bad. They had this man replace his last year (over $2000). Now...he has the same problem again. So...I am unsure what to do. I am trying to find someone else to check mine out (someone that I can trust). (I have had 5 brake master cylinders put on this car - every time before I have been told the master cylinder has gone bad. That was just replaced earlier this year...so is still under "warranty". Now they say it is not the master cylinder....) I have 253,000 miles on this car. Not sure I want to put an over $2000 part on it...and it might not even fix the problem. Sure as I put that much money into it...I will hit a deer and it will be totalled.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Betbet,

I rarely tell people to trade their vehicles, but this is an ongoing problem for 5 months with no results, and it's a brake issue which is very dangerous. Your car has over 250k and you may need to stick 2k into it hoping the problem will go away with no guarantee. I say sell it or better yet, trade it, it's not worth putting your life on the line, or the 2k which is peanuts compared to your life. Let me know what you decide Betbet, and thanks for your feedback, I really appreciate it :)


samorris 3 years ago

If a caliper costs $70.00 at and auto parts is it common for a mechanic to add $50.00 to the price he charges or $100.00 for both and charge labor on top of that?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Samorris,

That all depends on the mechanic or shop. It's common practice to mark up parts because shops usually get parts at a discount, then they mark them up as much as they want. This is the reason I always recommend getting a second estimate, most of the time you can save big $$ shopping around. Let me know if you decide to get a second estimate, thanks Samorris.


Boetie 3 years ago

Good day I have a serious problem, I wish someone could assist me, I drive a polo 2004 model round lights, my abs light just went on about 3 days ago. The strange part is that when the abs light goes off there a terrible grinding sound coming from the left wheel, I can feel it on the steering and on all the padels while driving very slowly, it's continuously there , but when the car picks up speed the abs light goes on then the grinding sound disappears but the abs light stays on, can this be the abs sensor that needs to be replaced or the abs motor itself, please I need help ASAP


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Boetie,

I think you have a problem with the abs sensor or ring, I would take a close look at the area of the abs rine and sensor and make sure it's clean and free from debris. If everything looks ok, it's probably the sensor. The reason your light is coming on is because it telling you there is a problem with the system, so when the light is on the system is shut off, that's why the noise stops. Let me know if this makes sense Boetie, keep me posted on what you find and let me know if you have more questions or concerns, thanks.


Boetie 3 years ago

Hi there, thank you so much for the advice, I replaced the abs sensor this morning because that's what the diagnosis said as well, the grinding sound stopped but the abs light stays on now, I cleaned all the sensors, the rear sensors had lots of grease on them but I made sure they clean, but the abs light does not want to go off and I took it for another diagnosis and the reading still says it's the left side sensor, it said something like impaired reading or something like that. Can it perhaps be that the sensor is is not picking up the reading correctly or can it be the bearing it self, although the wheel bearings was replaced like 3 months ago


Ledward 3 years ago

Hello,

I have a 2003 Dodge Caravan.When I drive at low speeds and apply brake pressure, the brake goes to the floor. I just have to pump it once and it is back to normal and working fine. I've had my master cylinder and booster replaced for this problem a year ago and recently replaced the master cylinder once again to fix the problem, but it is still happening. The car doesn't seem to be leaking any fluid at all. Any ideas?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Boetie, sorry I didn't see your post. Does your car have a ring on the CV joint or on the back side of the bearing? If it's on the back side of the bearing, it most likely it's the magnetic impulse wheel. Let me know if figure it out Boetie, thanks.

Hi Ledward, have you checked the brake fluid level lately? If it's low, look up under the dash at the brake pedal, examine the rod going to the master, make sure it's not leaking inside the car.

If everything looks ok, the calipers slide pins are probably frozen or starting to freeze up. When the slide pins freeze up, the caliper does not return and it stays extended out causing a lot of piston travel, because it takes more fluid to push the piston and reach the pads, the brake pedal has to travel further as well, leaving you with a soft pedal that you have to pump. Let me know if this makes sense to you Ledward, and if you have more questions, I'll be right here :)


Bigdaddy 3 years ago

k i have a idea what it might be but gonna try for a second voice have few years under a hood but nothing wrong with your opinion to.... k i am working on a friends Lexus and on the driver front outside break pad was completely gone but the inside and both passenger pads are perfectly fine but when jacked up the driver side (haven't even took tire off yet) the dam "break pad" fell out but it was gone nothing but metal on metal and has been grinding for some time cause it was almost paper thin not even kidding. but theirs fluid on the driver side and just a little on passenger but do you think there's a pin hole leak past the brake piston and that's why only the outside was engaging and wearing out extremely fast because it was "under "pressure or what pressure it did have" just to the that outside front pistons and leaking its fluid when you depress the pedal and could the wind pickup fluid to passenger side and look like its leaking or might be another hole when when the fluid returns?? hes suppose to wash it and i can get a better look tomorrow but trying to gather info before than


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Bigdaddy, a second opinion is always a good idea. So I assume you have 4 piston caliper? You may have some seepage past the piston o-ring, but I don't believe that's your problem, I believe the piston is frozen or will not return inside the caliper. The caliper should be replace no matter what, because if you have fluid leaking by the piston o-ring, that's dangerous, eventually the leak will get worst, and you will have lost lots if not all of the brake fluid.

Try squeezing the pistons back into the caliper, I bet you'll find at least one that will be frozen or will not return smoothly. Let me know how you make out Bigdaddy, and if you have more questions, you know where to find me.


Arianne Rogers 3 years ago

I have a 2000 Explorer & when pushing down on the brake it makes kind of a grinding noise. Not like to the rotors grinding, But it also doesn't want to stop right away, so you just keep pushing down till it does. I have had people tell me a sensor or something.. any thoughts would be really appreciated!!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Arianne, It sounds like the anti-lock brakes are coming on when they're not needed. If the ABS light is not on and this is happening, most likely you have a bad wheel speed sensor, mud or debris on one of your sensors, or one of your ABS rings is damaged, missing, covered in mud, debris or just completely rusted. I would start by having all 4 ABS wheel sensors checked visually. Let me know what you find Arianne, thanks.


chris maxwell 3 years ago

Hi Eddie, 2000 dodge stratus..I sat in the car and put pressure on pedal when getting in and heard a popping noise(no I should not have done). Lost brake pressure and took to my mechanic. He checked lines, replaced master Cylinder and rear seals. There is still no pedal pressure. He does not know what could be the problem at this point. Helpless in houston(due to my right foot) thank you


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Chris, sounds like you're in a tough spot, hope I can help. Stepping on the brake pedal while entering the vehicle should not do any harm or damage (no matter how hard you step on it)

My first question is, in your opinion, is your mechanic good? Or is it worth your while to get a second opinion?

If the master cylinder is not primed correctly when first installing it, there could be air in stuck in the master, causing a soft brake pedal.

The caliper slide pins could be frozen and when you stepped on the pedal, they may have extended the piston, and because they are frozen they didn't return to their normal position, so the piston has to travel even further to reach the pads, causing a soft brake pedal. Does that make sense?

Does the vehicle have drum brakes in the rear or rotors? If it's drum, the shoes could be out of adjustment. Let me know Chris.


chris maxwell 3 years ago

Well I do trust this guy. He has always been straight up and charged fairly. But he has brought in another mechanic from town to trouble shoot for him at no charge. I will update you the progress.

Thank you


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Ok Chris, thanks for the update, keep me posted.


chris maxwell 3 years ago

...and for the awesome finale....after sending to another shop come to find out it was a simple break line issue. I say simple but that didn't stop them from charging me an arm and a leg. Lesson for me...learn a little car knowledge. .seems so simple an issue :/ thank you for all your help.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Chris, glad the second opinion fixed it. Some mechanics are thorough when working on vehicles, they actually use their eyes, isn't that a novel concept, lol, other mechanics want to make a quick buck, lesson learnt. The other option is to come find me and I'll try to point you in the right direction, lol. You know where to find me if you ever have an automotive question. Thanks for all your feedback Chris, it truly is priceless, take care.

If you want to share this article on a social media site, I promise I won't be upset :)


Faye 3 years ago

I have a 98 Lexus for several years when I put my foot on the break(and at times when I don't break) I hear a high pitched squealing sound coming near the steering column. I've been told it's the break sensor. Also it will cost a couple of thousand dollars to repair. In the last few days the noise has stopped. My brakes still work. Should I be concerned the loud squeling sound has stopped?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Faye, the noise you're describing does sound like a brake pad wear indicator, but it shouldn't cost a couple thousand to fix, maybe $500 -$1000, but no more that that, get a second opinion. If the noise has stopped, the tab may have broken off, I would get your brakes checked soon as you have time, within a week. Let me know what happens Faye, I'm curious to know how much it will cost, thanks.


MathewCobaltLT 3 years ago

Hi. I have a cobalt LT. I took off the rear drivers side wheel and started spinning the wheel hub and it moves freely for 3/4 of the rotation, but then it has a little drag on the last quarter. Is this bad or its normal to have a little contact between the pad and the Drum ?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Matt, it's not unusual to have a rotor not completely true (straight) , so if it rubbing a little, it's no problem, if it's causing a brake pulsation, you could have them resurfaced or replace them. Let me know if this answers your question, thanks Matt.


Phil 3 years ago

Hi Eddie

Hope you can help me. I have a 1988 s15. When I apply my brakes gradually, as in normal driving, not really much of a braking problem (except the pedal travels farther that I think it should for new pads, shoes and everything tight to the drums) When I stomp on the brakes however, I just coast to a stop. (not possible to lock up the wheels ) Very disconcerting when travelling at highway speeds. There is also a "whoosh" sound inside from the vac booster and a slight momentary increase in engine RPM. Parts replaced so far are pads, shoes, couple of suspect hoses and Master cylinder. I suspected air so re(bench) bled master an lines.(I do not have ABS so bleeding is more straight forward) No different. Rotors, calipers (pins) and all other moving parts seem fine. Not sure what I am missing.

Thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Phil, the Whoosh is normal with the rpm increase, did you adjust the rear shoes?

Sometimes when replacing pads, it takes time for them to set into the rotors, so I would take it out for a drive on some back roads and just brake normal without overheating the rotors, and I think your brakes will feel better.

The brake pedal travel may be your shoes not adjusted or your caliper pins, did you actually remove the pins, clean and lube them? let me know Phil, thanks.


Phil 3 years ago

Thanks for getting back to me so promptly Eddie. Good to hear that the sound and rpm increase is normal, however I didn`t seem to hear the same thing (or at least as noticeable) in my 88 G20 van so I was curious about that. I know what you mean about the pads and shoes "settling in" but this is been going on for about a month now. It also feels like when you get rustproofing or other oils on your brakes but they are bone clean. I adjusted the rear shoes up as tight as I can get them and the drum still move. (replaced the spring kit while I was there). I even tried driving with the e brake on for a little to see if that would help.

It seemed like the rotors would turn easy and lock up with slight brake pressure, then turn again as soon as the pressure was off so I thought they were fine. I did lube the pins with the "right" grease, but I agree , this feels like a "clearance" issue, I may have to pull the calipers off and try again.

I did not replace rotors or calipers. They seemed fine but since I have to go at it again, I just may. How about flex hoses? I did replace the two front but not the rear. (again, looked fine and a pain to replace) I read somewhere that the hoses deteriorate from the inside, creating small balls of rubber. Is it possible that if this is true, I may have a blockage somewhere? I would think I would have a hard brake with little travel if that was the case. I don`t see any swelling on the rear hose but not that easy to check. The fluid looks very clean still ( I opted for DOT 4 this time since I use this truck to tow sometimes...which is why I am concerned what is going on with the brakes.)

I will take off the front calipers and check again but anything else I should be looking for (or test ) is much appreciated.

BTW...pressed the Like button a couple times but doesn`t look like its "hooked up"...


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Phil, thanks for pushing the like button, HubPages may be having a problem with it or something, I was wondering why this article has over 180 comments but only 9 likes, lol, problem solved :)

The brake booster doesn't make a whoosh sound constantly when pushing the brake, does it? Because that's not normal, it should be short and sweet with a slight idle fluctuation. Brake lines should not affect the braking unless they are twisted or bulging.

Did you try gravity bleeding the brakes? Open all 4 bleeders at once and keep filling the reservoir with fluid until fluid is dripping from all 4 bleeders consistently.

Did you have this problem before you replace all the brake parts? Or is this the result of your brake repair? I'm just trying to establish a reason so don't take that statement the wrong way, lol.


Phil 3 years ago

Hi again Eddie. I was wondering the same thing; all that good advice and only 8 likes?? What a thankless job! LOL.

No worries about offending, This not my first time to the picnic. I have done pretty well all my own work on my older vehicles and the brake jobs usually are pretty straight forward (and successful)...although ABS can be a real PITA to bleed. That leads me to the gravity bleed. No, I didn`t. Used the standard rr,rl, fr, fl. method. You say this because you think there is still air in there. Good point. Never had this much trouble before except ABS ( my Safari van which requires the module to cycle, etc..) but the M.C. sits at an angle with the nose up and made me think air was getting trapped so I raised the rear to level it out a bit. I`ll try gravity to see what happens.

No, booster just whooshes "more than I am used to" and I don`t recall the engine revving before...but then again I wasn't paying that close attention. I think it is mainly the distance the pedal is travelling is too far.The booster seems to hold a vacuum no problem so if anything , it may be something else I don`t know what for check for...put a bolt in the end of the line to check for leaks to the manifold but nada.

I can remember when the brakes would throw you to the dash if you stomped on them, like the other vehicles I have done the brakes on.

Things seemed to go south after I had a line failure when someone cut me off last winter. I replaced the broken line, and continued to use it for the winter but was leary of stomping on the brakes lest I popped another line. I honestly don`t recall if they were this bad , but it felt as if I might had air left in there.

I replaced everything mentioned before this winter came;pads first,re bled lines, noticed that the brake was still soft as mentioned. Thought that the MC was damaged as it was mashed to floor so decided to change that as well as suspect lines and hoses. (I will check again that they are not twisted)

Again,I am thankful to have your input. Hope the shaggy dog history helps you, help me. Feels like I might be missing something "simple"


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Phil, the more history you can give me the better, some people say "Hey my car runs like crap, what's wrong?" lol.

The only other thing I can think of is, on some vehicles there is an adjustment when installing the master to the booster, the rod coming out of the master cylinder has to stick out to a certain spec to meet the booster rod. These specs sould be set by the manufacturer, but if it's a reman, you never know what happened when they were rebuilding it.

I don't know if your master cylinder has this adjustment, but it's worth looking into. If there is too much clearance between rods, the pedal will have too much travel. Another thought to ponder is, could you have bought a bad master cylinder?

If everything looks ok, try gravity bleeding the system, I have had good luck doing it in the past. Let me know what you find Phil, and thanks for all the feedback, it's great for other readers to see that things don't always go as planned, even a simple brake job.


phil 3 years ago

Thanks Eddie

I am pretty sure there is just a pin inside the booster that contacts the master. I checked my FS manual and doesn`t appear to be an adjustment for the master. The thought of a bad "new"master crossed my mind, but without the vehicle running, and the vacuum depleted, the brake is hard and does not seem to retreat to the floor. (unlike the old one) I believe this is a reasonable test, but if you have another...

The gravity bleeding: place a clear line on all four open bleeders, keep res. full at all times, watch for bubbles (the rear bleeders are a real pain on this truck as they are inset and the lines will not stay on without a lot of ancillary fastening; I usually just open the bleeder with a socket and HOPE there is no air after bleeding. ) Just making sure I got it before I try it. May prove to less messy than my usual method.

As you mentioned, I hope this helps others as well. I know I read over pretty well all the other posts to see if there was someone with a similar problem.

I will probably tackle it this coming week end, before it gets too cold.

Thanks again for the advice. I will let you know if I have any success.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Ok Phil, good luck, and yes, The gravity bleeding: place a clear line or vacuum line on all four open bleeders, place the open end of the hose in a clear jar and submerge the hose in brake fluid, keep reservoir full at all times, you may use a lot of brake fluid doing it this way. Keep me posted on how you make out., thanks Phil.


Deedee2008 3 years ago

I have a 2006 Pontiac torrent I been having an issue with my right side brakes they keep getting eaten up. I've replaced them 3 times already and brought a rotor and caliper. It works for awhile but then the results are the same. Sometimes I let the car sit for a few days and when I drive it again it has this burning smell and a lil smoke coming from that side. The rotor be burning hot just sitting there. I've been told I need a abs pump which they say is causing the problem. Do you think that will solve the problem?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Deedee, no, an ABS pump will not solve the problem, it will just empty your pockets. If the ABS pump was the problem, you would have a problem with all 4 brakes. You either have a restriction in the brake line, or the caliper you replaced is no good. I would get a second opinion on this one. Let me know what happens or if you have more questions, thanks Deedee.


matt frazier 2 years ago

my 2002 chevy van is going down the road and then out of no where the breaks are feeling like they are being put on so I back up and hit the breaks real fast and they release the calipers have all been changed and the parking break is out what else is there that could do this?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Matt, is there any free play in the brake pedal? Your brake light switch could be out of adjustment, it could be applying a little pressure to your brakes without your foot on the pedal, this can cause the fluid to heat up and expand, causing even more pressure on the brakes.

I would start by checking the brake light switch, if it ok and there is free play at the top of your brake pedal, you may have a blockage in a line or a twisted brake line. Let me know what you find Matt


thomas simon 2 years ago

Hi I have a holden astra...whenever i apply the breaks i get a vibration in the steering wheel. Depending on how fast i am travelling determines how bad the vibration gets. Any thiughts as to what it may be. Car also has abs braking system but no problems as the abs light is not on


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Thomas, your front rotors may need to be resurface or replaced, depending on their thickness. Warped front brake rotors are the most common cause of a steering wheel shake when applying the brakes. Let me know what you decide to do or if you have more questions, thanks.


anthony 2 years ago

Hi I was driving down the m1 yesterday and started to notice that when I was changing lanes my front side right wheel semt to be realy light kinda felt like it was driving on ice any ideas one what it could be


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Anthony, how's your tire tread depth? Are your tires is good condition? How's your tires pressure? Let me know Anthony, thanks.


benjacob 2 years ago

hello,

i recently bought a 1970 shasta motor home(ford econoline 300).

i bought it knowing it needed some brake work because i would have to pump the brake pedal to build pressure to stop.

-so i bled the lines with no luck

-i replaced the master cylinder with no luck

they have not improved at all.

i just cannot figure out why the brakes will not hold pressure?

by the way it has drum brakes front/back and does not have a brake booster(manuel brakes)

thanks,

benjamin


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Sorry Benjamin, I didn't see your comment. Did you try adjusting the the brake adjusters on all brakes? That would be the most common cause of a low brake pedal with drum brakes. Let me know and I'll keep an eye out for your comment, thanks.

Eddie


benjacob 2 years ago

hello,

no problem!

i have not tried to adjust them yet...how would i do that?

thanks,

benjamin


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

The easiest way to do it is to remove each drum, find the adjuster and adjust the brake shoes out (closer to the drum) by spinning the little wheel on the adjuster. Your drums will probably have a lip on the edge so it might be best if you adjust them from the access hole in the backing plate. If you bring it to a garage, they could probably adjust all brakes within a 1/2 hour, and it will be worth it.

Adjusting drum brakes is not hard, but if you have never done it before, it could be confusing. Look up a video on YouTube on how to do it, I'm sure there is one posted. Let me know how you make out Benjamin, thanks.


mary freeman 2 years ago

i have a 2005 chevy cavalier with 115,000 miles on it. when i apply and release the brakes i hear a popping sound, i was told by a car mechanic that this popping noise is coming from brake pad movement, i dont think so. so what could the real problem be.

thank you


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

You're funny Mary, lol. Here are a couple questions for you:

1. Does the vehicle have to be moving for the noise to happen or can it make the noise with the car stopped?

2. does the noise only happen once or can you make it happen several times in a row?

3. Can you feel the pop in the brake pedal?

4. Is the noise on the outside of the vehicle or inside?

Let me know Mary, thanks.


Mary Freeman 2 years ago

to eddiecarrara: it happens on the outside of the car and there is no pop feeling in the brake pedal. the noise happens when i apply and releaase the brake. in the morning after i have started the car and when i take my foot off the brake and start driving forward i can hear a lot of popping then it stops but it starts again when i am further down the road and i have to apply the brake again. i was told that it sounds like the caliper pins are not allowing the brake pads to come into full contact to the rotor. or maybe it is the PCV joints or air in my brake line. at this point though my brakes are stopping the car with no stopping problem. do you have an idea where this popping noise is coming from and at what point does this popping noise actually becomes a threat while driving my car. i would hate for my brakes to fail completely and i end up hitting someone. thanks and God bless.


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Ok Mary, so let clear up what it's not and then go from there.

It's not caused by air in the brake lines, this would cause a soft brake pedal.

CV joints make noise on sharp slow turns while accelerating.

Caliper pins would not make a noise but can cause a soft brake pedal if they are frozen.

Brake pad shift will usually make one pop noise in each direction, for example, once as the brakes are applied for the first time going forward, the pads shift to the bottom of the caliper and once when the brakes are applied going in reverse, the pads will shift to the top of the caliper. The brake pads are shifting in the caliper, therefore only making one pop or click when they shift.

I would get a second opinion on the brakes, it sounds like the master cylinder is making noise, or the anti lock brakes are kicking in, but without actually hearing it or test driving it I'm only guessing.

Let me know what you find Mary, this is a tricky one, thanks.


Mary Freeman 2 years ago

i will have these checked out. thanks

by the way i was checking my brake fluid the other day and when i took the cap off the container where the brake fluid goes i noticed that my brake light came on for the first time on the inside panel, i readjusted the emergency brake handle that is next to the driver side and the light went off, did the brake light come on bcuz i might have done something to the container where the brake fluid goes. in the future when i have my brake pads replaced bcuz of normal wear and tear will the mechanic see anything strange about the caliper and the caliper pins at that time - just wondering. thanks God bless


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mary, some brake fluid caps have a sending unit attached to it , it mave have got stuck or something? If a good mechanic does your brake job, they will disassemble the calipers and lube everything, so it's not a bad idea to ask what their brake job entails.


Mary Freeman 2 years ago

okay thanks, i hope in the near future when i get my brakes fixed, i'll let you know what the mechanic finds to fix the popping noise. God bless


Sally 2 years ago

Hello, I have a question and this has really been bothering me so much, I am unable to sleep thinking of the consequences. We just bought a brand new Mazda CX5 2014 a few months ago. It was driving great until Friday morning. I was heading to work and I had just left the house. I was only 5 mins away from home and was stopping at a second stop light when the brakes did not work. The rd tilts a little but not much. I kept hittting the brakes and nothing happened as if I wasn't even braking. I ran the red light and hit a car turning left which in turn hit a car waiting to turn left on the other side of the intersection. Thankfully no one was hurt but damage to the 3 cars. I also want to mention that I tried turning the steering wheel to avoid hitting the car but it was heavy to move and I could hardly turn it. The brakes when pressed felt heavy and did not want to go all the way down. Nothing was stuck behind the brakes. We have taken it to the dealership and they checked it out and said nothing is wrong. I also complained to Mazda Canada. They have since called us back to bring it in again to do more tests today and still waiting for results.

I want to say I have been driving for 20 years with no accident record except for the few parking tkts. We have exceptional reputation with our insurance as good drivers. I know how the car feels when it slides since I live in Canada and used to driving on slipper roads. This time though the brakes did not work, I am 1000% sure and soo frustrated because I have 2 small children and never want to get into this car again. We still have warranty on this car. I don't want it anymore and want nothing to do with it. The car seems to be working fine now but I KNOW the brakes did not work then. I also want to mention that it was freezing here for a few days and the car was parked outside for the night in -20 or -30C weather.

I look forward to your advice


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sally, well I'm glad you're OK and no one was hurt.

The only question I have is: Did you hear or feel the abs brakes kick on? If not, I would guess (GUESS) that the brake booster did not have any vacuum, maybe because of a blockage in the vacuum line, possible ice? This is just a guess and I'm sure Mazda is going to look into this issue very closely.

The steering may have felt heavy as well because some vehicles shut off power steering after so many mph because it's not needed at speeds over 10 mph. Power steering only assists the driver when the vehicle is at slow speeds like when driving in a parking lot or parking the vehicle.

If and when you figure this out, I would be very curious to know what they find, if you could just let me know , that would be very much appreciated. If you have any other questions, I'll be right here :)


Teresa Stokley profile image

Teresa Stokley 2 years ago

Man! Ur freakin Awesome! I read Most of the posts already & it sux that u only have a few likes! I just wanted 2 say that I hope Hub fixed the 'like' button. I had no problems hitting it... Sooo, here's MY deal.... My husband has a '07 Chevrolet Silverado 4x4 & just last weekend replaced the front right (passenger side) bearing, also he checked the left/driver side 1, & he said it was not shaky & he was sure that that 1 was ok. He said he noticed that his brake pads needed changing but N of of those Duh!! moments we all have sum times, he didn't go get them & do it right then, he was planning on doin it This wkend. Well, last night he was coming home & the brake light & the ABS light came on. Also, he heard a Loud grinding, like metal on metal noise. So, he immediately stopped & parked @ a store (I had 2 go get him over an hour away from home!) So now we r going 2day 2 Try & fix it There, N the parking lot of this store, (UHGG! I had 2 cancel my Hair gettin did 4 this!!) LOL, sooo I was wondering if u can maybe give me a few things to check, just N case changing the brake pads does Not fix it.... Thank u So much 4 what u do! Really, I've read All kinds of bloggers, & I've Never seen sum1 reply 2 Every Single Post like u do! 4Real, God Bless ur Pea-Pickin'-Heart! (maybe I shld say ur Mechanic Fixin' Heart, but I say Pea Pickin 4 every1 I really like! I'm southern, what can I say!?) But I do wanna say, Thank u on behalf of Every 1 that hasn't made u feel appreciated, & they were jus 2 selfish 2 think of saying it!!! :-) I'm sure u've helped MANY people n many ways! God Bless u 7 fold!!


Sally 2 years ago

Hi Eddie, Thank you for getting back to me.

The dealership has tested what you mention above and all came back normal. Now Mazda Canada is investigating and have asked for power control module (PCM) data …Mazda will confirm if any intermittent fault code or irregular data was captured.

I have also opened a tkt with Transport Canada and they are following up with this because of the fact that this is a new car.

They keep telling me however that this was not reported elsewhere and that everything looks normal now.

This is frustrating me soooo much because I know for a fact that the brakes did not work.

Any advice? I no longer want to see or drive this car :( and I loved it so much when we first got it.


Sally 2 years ago

Hi again, to answer your question. NO, I didn't hear nor feel the ABS kicking...it just kept going as if I did not hit the brakes.

Why would the system shut off power steering? I had just left the house, I was driving at a speed of about 20km/hr. What if I had slid, wouldn't I have needed the steering wheel to steer? I have been in many situations where thre car slides and I could always move the steering wheel.

This time the brakes did not work and the steering wheel was heavy to move.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Teresa, and WOW! I am humbled by your kind words, thank you :) and as far as the like button, it's ok, the comment's alone tell the story :) and people like you keep me going ;)

I think what happened to your truck is the pad wore down so much that it slipped out of the caliper, the piston is probably rubbing on the rotor causing the grinding noise, and the brake fluid level dropped when that pad disappeared.

You may have to replace the rotors, but you can limp home by just installing a set of brake pads temporarily (if you can get the piston back into the caliper). At the minimum you'll need to resurface the rotors and replace the pads. Let me know if I can help in any other way Teresa, and keep me posted on what happens, thank you :)


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sally, in a situation like that, your power steering is still working but the assist is minimal because there is no need to have power steering at speeds over 10 mph. It's like the old vehicles back in the 60ies with no power steering, in a parking lot, it was very difficult to turn the steering wheel at very slow speeds, but while driving down the road and taking corners at faster speeds, the steering was pretty easy. I'm not positive about the power assist turning off on your vehicle, but a lot of car manufacturers do have this feature.

I think you have the right people working with you, once they look at the snapshot from the vehicles data, you'll have some answers, I hope. Let me know if I can answer any other questions, and keep me posted on the results, thanks Sally.


franky 2 years ago

Hello,

I have a 90 silverado. My right front caliper is stuck.. I just replaced both calipers, brakes, and right rotor. I bled the system no peoblem... took it for a test drive maybe a mile, by the time I got back the rotor was bright red....how do I know if its the master cylinder or the brake proportionate valve.


Sally 2 years ago

Thank you Eddi for you assistance and prompt reply. Can you give me an idea of what exactly this snap shot would tell them? Would they be able to go back to the time of the accident and read the data from there?


Nick 2 years ago

On the way home in my 2001 Grand Prix I applied the brake and heard a pop and whoosh and then my brake pedal went to the floor. It was rainy so I couldn't see any fluid. But the reservoir emptied by the time I limped to safety. I'm bringing it to a shop in the morning but I'd like to know your opinion on it (if you're able to glean anything useful from this).


Nick 2 years ago

Also as a note: My brake fluid was full before this. I had just checked my fluids that morning.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Franky, were both rotors overheated?

Hi Sally, I'm not really sure how much data is stored or what they can extract from the computer. I don't believe it's like a flight recorder, I just know if there is a fault in some systems, it stores a snapshot of what systems were on and which ones were off, temperatures, and voltage readings, basic information.

Hey Nick, It sounds like a line blew, most likely a metal line rusted through. Let me know what the shop finds, thanks.


Nick 2 years ago

Yeah it was a metal line that rusted through and failed.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Wow, that's dangerous, good thing you're OK. If you ever need any automotive advice Nick, you know where to find me :)


Philddv 2 years ago

I just had all my brakes done and my truck brakes better than before, but I got a spongy brake pedal. I'm happy my truck brakes better. But I know that the pedal should be fairly stiff and not spongy.. right? I don't see leaks anywhere and reservoir is filled to the max indicator. Is there air in the brake lines? I know the place would bleed the brakes, but I don't want to go there and have them say I need a master cylinder when I don't need (because they are nice but seem like they try to add on procedures to make more money).


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Phil, there are a lot of things that can cause a soft brake pedal; air in the lines (but I don't know why you would have air in the lines unless the brake system was opened), frozen slide pins in the calipers, or out of adjusted rear drum brakes. What exactly did these guys change?


Philddv 2 years ago

thanks for the quick replies. front rotors and front brake pads and rear drums and shoes. I just want some info before I take it there and get suckered in to paying for something i don't need. And what are out of adjusted rear drums and how would you know they aren't done right?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Phil, if the rear brakes are out of adjustment, the emergency brake will be out of adjustment also, so try engaging the parking brake and see if it will hold the vehicle. If the rear shoes are adjusted properly, you should only get 3 to 5 clicks when applying the E-brake. Let me know what you find, thanks Phil.


mary freeman 2 years ago

hi eddiecarrara: in regards to the popping sound when i apply the brakes and release the brakes. i saw a car mechanic today and he looked very carefully as to where the popping sound is coming from. he discovered that the axle on the front right passenger side is slightly loose therefore some transmission fluid is lealking out slowly. anyway the other side of the axle is clean and dry and is not loose. anyway the mechanic said that when i apply the brakes the axle stops rotating and when i release the brakes the axle begins rotating. so when the axle is stopping and going it is causing the popping noise bcuz that side of the axle is slightly loose. anyway i will keep you posted as to the results of what happens after the mechanic fixes the axle, i will drive it for awhile and i will listen very carefully for the popping noise. anyway pray that the mechanic is correct on this. to fix the axle it will cost from $50 to $60. not too bad. also today when i was driving my car, my check engine light started blinking on and off, so the same mechanic who is fixing my axle hooked my car up to some car life support unit(LOL) and determined that my car computer isn't firing off (flat line) to the #2 fuel injector. that will cost about $650(which includes parts, labor and tax) to replace a new (laptop) car computer (LOL). well pray that the mechanic does the job right on my computer and on my axle. i'm really sick and tired when things on my car stop working !!!! i was on my way to work today when the engine check light started blinking and i almost wanted to cry, i missed a day of work. that's life on plant earth. thank God that there is a heaven and i'm going there, no more cars, WOOOHOOO !!! alright take care !!!


mary freeman 2 years ago

in regards to popping noise when applying and releasing brakes: well the mechanic fixed the axle that was loose, but it didn't solve the popping noise, but the mechanic didn't charge me for fixing the axle. he replaced my car computer, and the car runs good. the mechanic suggests the following as to what might be causing the popping noise: suspect possible engine cradle to frame bolt noise. what is your opinion on this? but the mechanic said it isn't an urgency to fix the popping noise. what is your opinion on this? thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mary, I would get a second opinion, it's most likely a worn suspension part like a ball joint or control arm bushing, but it's hard to say for sure without hearing it. keep me posted Mary, and I'm sorry I can't help you any more than I have, it's just tough diagnosing a noise without hearing it.


Debbie 2 years ago

Saw this page and am so hopeful you can give me some advice. I bought a used 2003 Honda CRV 3 1/2 years ago with 133,000 mikes. Right after buying it we would smell burning smells by the tire wells and they were super hot. We brought it back and they replaced the right front caliper and resurfaced front rotors and pads and also replaced the left rear caliper and replaced rear pads and rotors. About a year later the smell came back and this time they replaced the rear right caliper. Here we are 2 years later and I brought the car in for a honda recall and the dealership said I needed new front brakes as well as a few other things so I brought it to my local mechanic for a second opinion. He did back up needing new front brakes but also said the front right caliper also needed to be replaced and when you do one side you should do both. That caliper only has 14,000 miles on it. Why would it go bad so soon? This is a $700 total job and don't want to have to replace the two calipers again in another 3 years. Thank you for your advice.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Deb,

It's rare you ever need to replace a caliper on a Honda unless the piston is frozen or the slide pins are seized, and you should never have to replace them in pairs just because one has failed! Who ever told you that, stay away or be very weary of them.

Pads can freeze in calipers but they just need to be taken apart, cleaned and lubed properly. It sounds like you live in an area where there is a lot of salt, sand and road treatments in the winter. If this is the case, you should have your brakes serviced (taken apart, cleaned and lubed) every 20k miles or when you start to notice a difference in braking. It may cost you 1 hour labor per axle, but it will be worth it in the long run.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and keep me posted as to what happens, thanks Deb.


Debbie 2 years ago

Thanks Eddie! You are right about the snow, sand and salt! Makes so much more sense then they've already gone bad. Thanks for the info to help me not spend a fortune!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Sure Deb, no problem, and don't ever hesitate to ask for my opinion, I'm always right here :)


Benson 2 years ago

My nissan almera 02 keep giving grinding noise when on motor way after doing 60mph for 20min.pls what the cause


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Benson, I need a little more information, does it change with speed? Does it only happen at 60 mph? Is the noise constant? Is it coming from the engine, transmission, wheel bearing??? Let me know Benson, thanks.


Melissa 2 years ago

Hello - So i just had my back brakes done and there is grinding noise when i drive it, the person that had fixed it for me told me it is normal and it just needs to get set into place and if i brake hard and when i back up more with it , it will improve. Is that true? thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Melissa, is the noise a scraping noise while driving or is it a grinding /rubbing noise when braking? Were the rotors/drums replace or resurfaced? Let me know, thanks.


Debbie 2 years ago

I have a question. I have a 2013 elantra. My rear brakes went bad. When i got them fixed the driver side rear brakes were metal to metal and the rotor ridged, however the passenger rear brakes still had most of the padding and the rotor fine. What would cause only one side to go bad and the rear brakes so soon. My front brakes are prefectly fine.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Deb, it sounds like the caliper piston was sticking or the brake pads were stuck in the caliper, that would be the most common cause. Let me know if this helps, thanks.


Angie 2 years ago

My Daughter has a mazda Tribute 2001, and when she left work the other morning the brake pedal became really hard for a few seconds and then it went back to normal. Is this something I should have looked at?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Angie, if this happens again, absolutely you should have it looked at. How was the engine running when this happened? Was it running smooth or was it running rough?


PKA 2 years ago

Hi Eddi,

I had my rear rotors and pads replaced on my 06 Mazda5. A couple of weeks later I went on highway and smelt some burning. Went back to guy says the brake hose is weak needs replacement. Did not feel right so checked with another mechanic says the caliper gets seized & does not release fully so replace the caliper. Could you suggest which is right? Will much appreciate it. Thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi PKA, I would say mechanic #2. A hose will not cause your brakes to to stick unless the mechanic twisted the hose during installation, causing a blockage, therefore not releasing pressure off the caliper piston once the brakes were applied. Let me know if this helps PKA, thanks.


Ssa123 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

I have jeep grand cherokee srt8 2008 model,

I had recenlty changed front brake pads with resurfacing of rotors ,after these thing brake pedal is soft than usual and going extra down, already checked master clyinder its very much fine no leakage also,

Please advise


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Ssa123,

Did you change the brakes yourself? If you had your brakes done by a garage, bring it back asap. If the mechanic had to open the bleeder screw to push the piston back into the caliper, they may have got some air in the line, so it just needs to be bled out. The other possibility is a twisted rubber brake line or a caliper piston is frozen. So, bring it back to who ever did the brakes because there is something wrong, if you did the brakes yourself, double check your work, ether way, please come back here and let me know what you find, thanks.


Ssa123 2 years ago

Eddie ,

Thanks for your reply, actually it was my rotor thickness which was less then the minimum thickness , thats why pedal was going down usual than normal, its already sorted out, but was good experience to learn more.

Thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

OK Sea123, thanks for the feedback :)


bobby 2 years ago

Hi I just bought a 2003 dodge caravan. If u push the brake pedal firm and hold it down it stops normal but if u let off and push it again it becomes soft and no pressure and goes to the floor. Its full of fluid and no leaks. I don't know what to do about it please help


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Bobby,

The master cylinder is probably leaking internally between seals, therefor you wouldn't lose any fluid. I would replace the master cylinder and see how it feels. Keep me posted on what happens, thanks.


George 2 years ago

I have an ongoing problem with my 03 astra hatchback, my brake pedal sunk to the floor and I had no fluid, I replaced the rear brake cylinder as it was pouring with fluid and the rubber seal had burst, 2 days later with the new one intact it happened again wth the same cylinder, the shoes have just been replaced about a month ago, any ideas or suggestions?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi George, did you adjust the rear shoes after replacing the wheel cylinder?


George 2 years ago

Yes, I just moved the rotors with a screwdriver to get the shoes the same distance as the shoes on the opposite side, I'm going to replace it again tomorrow morning and hopefully the rubber casing has just popped off and not ripped again


shawn 2 years ago

I have a 99 pontiac grand am SE. My pedal goes to the floor, but my breaks will stop me slowly. I see no evidence of leaks but my reservoir has went dry twice. My back breaks were not engaging so i had them adjusted and bled the line. Still the edal goes to the floor. Pumping the breaks does not give me any better compression. My buddy says that i am getting no vacuum through the master cylinder and that the power booster behind it is bad and needs changed. Thoughts?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi George,

so you have calipers and rotors in the rear of the vehicle not drums and shoes?

Hi Shawn,

If the pedal is going to the floor, and you have no signs of leaks at any of the wheels or lines, but the reservoir has emptied twice, you leak is probably on the inside of your vehicle. Crawl under the dash and look at the rod that is attached to the brake pedal, can you see any fluid dripping from the rod? Let me know, and don't listen to your buddy, lol.


Stephen Chase 2 years ago

My car has had a few brake problems in the past. One day I was driving and when I went to push the brakes I had no pressure! I ended up slowly coming to a stop by pulling my E-Brake. My brother replaced the brake booster with one out of a 91 Nissan Maxima just like mine from the junk yard. Everything worked fine for a while and then my brake pedal started feeling soft when I pushed it. I really have to push the brakes far downward in order for them to work. They are really being inefficient. I checked my pads and they are fine. Another problem I've had is the brake lights staying on. I went to replace the switch yesterday and realized they were still on. The only way to cut them off is to pull out the fuse. I have two switches behind the brake pedal (assuming on of them is for cruise control?) and one of them (the one I replaced) has an open hole behind it. So I figured whatever went there before like a bushing or grommet must of deteriorated away. I put a screw there that was long enough to connect the brake pedal and switch as long as the brake pedal was not pressed. My brake lights went off and I was relieved! I took off with my car and noticed that my brake pedal wasn't soft anymore. It actually felt normal. But as I got up in speed I noticed my car was driving a little rough and putting off a bad burning smell kinda like melting rubber or plastic (its never done this before). I was really puzzled. Later the ABS light came on. I pulled over and there was smoke coming out from under the hood and under the car. Also my two front tire hubs were really hot. I needless to say couldn't make my 45 min trip all the way to work today so I came home and did some investigating. I pulled the screw out that I put behind the brake switch and unplugged the wire connected to my master cylinder (hoping it would release my calipers) then took off again. This time everything worked fine and my brakes were back to being soft again and though that's not a good thing I was still relieved. So my question is does it make since that the screw I put behind the brake light switch that kept it in contact with the brake pedal while it wasn't being pushed caused the brakes to stick the way they did? Also do you think I should replace my master cylinder since my brakes are soft. Is there another way to be sure? Thanks.


paul 2 years ago

I have trouble figuring a problem with my 53 plate vectra c when I try to bleed the back passenger side brake and front drives side there is just dribbles of fluid not squirting out I have replaced pipes and dispensing unit that has the control unit on and stayed the same I have changed the pipes from back drivers to back passengers and it worked it has me confused


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Stephen,

Yes, the screw you put in caused the brake pedal to apply the brakes lightly, which caused the fluid to rise in temperature, when this happened it built pressure in the lines and at the pads causing the brakes to stick. I would check to see if all your caliper slide pins are free and not sticking and also check to see if your caliper pistons retract into the calipers easily. One other thing you may want to check, if you have rear drum brakes, make sure the shoes are adjusted properly. Let me know what you find Stephen, and if you have other questions, you know where to find me :) BTW, the connector on the master should just be a switch for the fluid level, so it shouldn't change anything if unplugged.

Hi Paul,

This may sound silly, but did you check to see if the bleeders were clogged or rusted on the inside preventing you from bleeding the brakes? Let me know, thanks.


shannon 2 years ago

I have a Rav4...noticed recently that you really have to push on the brakes to get it to stop. I took it to the shop and they checked both front pads and rotors, and back shoes and drums, all were ok. Also, brake fluid is fine and not leaking. They recommended I have the brake lines flushed. Just wanted to see what you think might me wrong before I try through flush.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Shannon, can you tell if the brake booster is working? Is there any assist from the booster or is the brake pedal hard all the time like when the engine is not running?


shannon 2 years ago

Brake pedal is not hard, but you have to push down far to get it to stop. Sorry, not sure what a brake booster is to tell you if it is working or not.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

It's OK Shannon,

It actually sounds like your caliper slide pins are frozen and not allowing your calipers to return to their resting position, therefor the piston is extended causing a soft / low pedal. I would have someone take a close look at the front calipers and make sure nothing is frozen. Let me know if you have more questions, and keep me posted on what you find, thanks Shannon.


nancy 2 years ago

I have a 98 chrystler t&c mini van the break light is on and when I turn the van to the right it turns normal but if I try to turn to left its like I have no power steering can you please tell me what it could be I'm a single mom with limited funds so hoping not a big issue cause I have a disabled son to get around in it


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Nancy, check the power steering reservoir first and make sure you have enough power steering fluid in the tank. Let me know what you find, thanks.


April 2 years ago

I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix and I changed the back brakes. After changing the brakes I took it for a test drive. When I got back the rotor was glowing red. I assumed the caliper was bad so I ordered another one. As I am tightening down the bolts on the new caliper it puts the rotor in a bind to the fact it won't allow the tire to spin. I purchased a new rotor thinking maybe it got warped when it got hot but after installing the new rotor it does the same thing. PLEASE HELP


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi April,

That sounds a bit crazy, lol. When you changed the caliper, did you change the complete assembly (mounting bracket, slide pins and piston) ? Let me know April, thanks.


April 2 years ago

We changed the caliper and new bolts but didn't change the mounting bracket


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

OK, that is most likely where the problem exists. Check the slide pins and make sure the caliper is moving freely (we know the piston is free) if the caliper slides are frozen, you may need to replace the caliper bracket if you can't free up the slide pins. Let me know what you find April, thanks.


April 2 years ago

We changed the caliper bracket today and it worked. Thanks


Melvin 2 years ago

Hi, I have a 2007 honda accord 2.4 and the caliper slide pin rubber protector as well as the caliper piston rubber is torn. Do I need to reset any computer setting after having it replaced?

Thanks.


nancy 2 years ago

I have checked the power steering and it is fine I just don't understand what's going on cause I've been told several things it could be


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi April,

That's awesome :) Thanks for coming back and keeping me posted, I really appreciate it.

Hi Melvin,

No, you just need to replace the caliper, bleed the brakes, and you're done. Let me know if you any other questions.

Hi Nancy,

Have you hit anything with the wheels turned? Like have you slid into a curb while taking a sharp turn in the snow? Because it sounds like your steering rack is bent on one side, let me know, thanks.


Enginerin 2 years ago

Hi, I found your site after my Dad was having problems with his breaks. You are awesome. I will be back with my Dad's car details.

Thank You!

Erin


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Erin, and thank you very much :) I'll keep an eye out for your post.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Sorry Jimis, I don't understand the question, I understand you have a problem with your left caliper maybe making a noise?


jimis 2 years ago

crashes or RIGHT CALIPER while I repair the case may beI changed drivers joints fluid conduits


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

The CV joints are leaking grease and are making noise?


Marshal 2 years ago

Hey, I own a 3000GT VR-4 and I drive really recklessly all the time and I notice when I press my brakes really hard my car starts to go right and I end up sliding completely sideways. I really have no idea what could be causing it to do that. Could you let me know what you think?


TC 2 years ago

Have a 2002 camry and just brought the car to dealer for something else. They claim that the front wheels not spinning freely could be a sign that the Calipers are sticking or frozen, and they should be replaced very soon. Can that really be the case or am I being taken for a ride?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Marshal,

It sounds to me like you have uneven pressure in the braking system, I would start by having the front calipers checked. Let me know what you find out.

Hi TC,

A sure sigh of calipers sticking is the brake pads wearing out quickly, just because your front wheels do not move freely, doesn't mean the calipers are frozen, there are a lot of other reasons for the wheels not turning easily. Let me know if you still have more questions, thanks.


Keith Evans 2 years ago

Hey eddie, I just replaced front pads, rotors, and calipers on my 2003 eclipse. Don't brakes on all my cars but I am stumped. First week brakes were great, but now at slow braking I feel a light grinding and can hear it too once on the rotation of the tire. Can't figure out what is causing this. Your help would be great.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Keith,

Can you hear it outside the vehicle? Try driving it along the side of a building or wall like in a shopping mall, so the noise reflects off the wall. Let me know if you can hear it outside the vehicle too, thanks.


chase 2 years ago

Hey I have an 1985 Chevy Scottsdale that the rear brakes do not work at all. Front are seemingly getting weaker. I looked at the drums and everything appears to be okay but I didn't want to replace wheel cylinders if it wasn't needed. Should I consider the master cylinder? Applying the brake pedal I notice less pressure than I once had and its getting closer to the floor, thanks.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Chase,

Have you ever adjusted the rear brake shoes?


Renee 2 years ago

Thanks A lot


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Renee, for what?


Rocket 2 years ago

A while back, Brian Reaume asked you about almost coming to a stop and then rolling a couple feet. I have a 2001 ford ranger 4wd 4.0, approaching a stop sign, steady pressure on the brake, slows down almost to stop, brake peddle firm all the way, then within inches of stopping the peddle sinks a little and there is a slight buzzing noise and rolls forward a couple feet to stop. The tranny isn't downshifting late and the engine doesn't make any different noise, the buzz sounds like it's coming from booster. The booster does work and keeps vacuum.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Rocket,

Does this happen every time you come to a stop or once and a while? Have you had a brake work done recently? The way I see it is, the vacuum booster would have to increase in vacuum in order for this to happen, possibly a blockage in the one way valve in the vacuum booster line? Let me know your thoughts Rocket, thanks.


Marshal 2 years ago

Hey, I had my calipers checked and you were right! it was uneven brake pressure so I scraped em and installed a new Brembo brake kit. Thanks to you my car drifts like a charm on public roads!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Marshal,

Thanks for coming back with an update, this is the kind of feedback that's priceless, and I really appreciate it! I'm glad you got you braking squared away, now maybe you can keep it between the lines :)


yani 2 years ago

Hey...i changed my front calipers of my honda civic..i removed the breaks n changed the thing tha hols the breaks in place....not only tha wile changing the calipers i left the lines open...i bleeded air off but my car wont break...wat can be wrong with it wat can i do for them to work


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Yani,

You need to bleed the brakes until all the air is out of the lines. Do you know the proper way to bleed brakes? Let me know.


Kayla 2 years ago

Hi, I have a 2001 Grand Jeep Cherokee Loredo 6 cyclinder.I had some repairs done on it. The mechanic knocked a whole in a part next to the master cyclinder. I can actually hear the air going into the brake line. He put tape on it temporarily but it came off. My brakes have to be applied really early and pushed to the floor to stop on time. Can you please tell what this part may be called and if it is fixable?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kayla,

I think your talking about the brake booster. Yes it can be fixed, you just need to replace it. It's a big job though, so have someone experienced do the job. Let me know if you have more questions Kayla, thanks.


Kayla 2 years ago

Thanks a Mil! You have been a great help! Thanks to the the info you gave me I a lessor chance of being ripped off.


awettels 2 years ago

Im stumped so is my husband ( hes a mechanic even has been for 8 years). We have a 2000 stratus that at first we thought was the tranny making the noise/ differential as thats where it sounds like the noise is coming from when on the lift. Anyways when we coast our car makes a rattle noise. It only happens when coasting no other time but when we put our foot on the pedal goes away or brake than another thing under the brake and gas pedal it feels like something is gunna come right through the floor when we turn either way it will hit the left side of the brake pedal than the right after it hit the left side. Do you have any idea what it maybe? I have no idea if these are all in the same. Im asking bc when i typed my problem in on google it showed someone saying the same thing on this page but cant find it.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Awettels,

It sounds to me like something attached to the engine/transmission is hitting the floor or hitting something connected to the floor, this could be anything from a motor/transmission mount, exhaust hanger, bent metal bracket, or sway bar bushings or links. But because you can hear it on the lift, I would lean more towards a motor/transmission mount. Does the transmission shift OK? Let me know, thanks.


darious 2 years ago

I have a 2003 grand am and when I release the gas it feels as if the car breaks itself


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Darious,

Sounds like a caliper is hanging up or something, are any of your brakes heating up more than the others? Let me know, thanks.


John 2 years ago

I have a 2000 Nissan frontier and just changed the front brakes and rotors. Now with the truck running the brake pedal goes to the floor but will build some pressure if it is pumped and if it's not running the pedal has good pressure. Is it the master cylinder or the brake power booster?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi John,

Did you do the work yourself? It sounds like you may have twisted one of your rubber caliper flex lines, or the caliper slide pins are not lube properly. Let me know if this is a possibility. I don't think it's the master cylinder or booster, did you have any issues with them before the brake job?


John 2 years ago

The truck pulled hard right when applying brakes and the brakes were almost to the floor.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi John,

I would check both caliper slide pins, especially the left caliper, it sounds like that is where the problem resides. Let me know what you find John, thanks.


c young 2 years ago

I have a 1998 ford taurus sedan. The mechanic claimed he changed my brakes. it didn't feel like it when I picked up my car. two weeks later the brake caliper pins were loose. What can possibly cause this to happen?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi C Young,

The only thing that could cause that is the mechanic who didn't tighten them. I hope they didn't charge you to tighten them. Let me know, thanks.


serg 2 years ago

I got some vibrating noise , but if i just touch my nrake pedal , the noise goes off, what it could be


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Serg, most likely it's the wear indicator on your brake pads, check your brake pads at the wheel where the noise is coming from and let me know what you find, thanks.


John 2 years ago

The truck doesn't pull anymore. Changed the master cylinder and brake booster still the pedal goes to the floor. Bled brakes several times. Don't see any leaks. Every thing seems to be right just can't get brake pressure while the truck is running.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

John, did you check the front caliper slide pins? If the pins are not sliding freely the caliper does not return properly and the piston stays extended causing a low brake pedal. let me know.


John 2 years ago

The slide pins are fine.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

OK, do you have drum brakes on the rear of are they disc?

The brake pedal gets hard when the engine is off because there is no assist from the booster, so the booster is working ( I know you just changed it)

You didn't find any twisted caliper flex lines?

Did you try to gravity bleed the brakes?

Are you using a brake bleeding bottle at each caliper when you're pumping the pedal?


jason 2 years ago

what can cause your back wheel to freeze when you are just driving of?


awettels 2 years ago

The transmission shifts good thats the weird part lol


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jason, is it drum or disc brakes?

Hi Awettels, then it might be just a motor or transmission mount :)


sue 2 years ago

my vw bora makes a grinding noise when braking and low acceleration ive had brakes checked and bearings they said theres nothing wrong with them they said it would have to go on a rolling road to find fault as it only does it under load thanks


matt frazier 2 years ago

Do you know if there is a tool that will tell me what the right amount of presure that is the right amount to come out of my car's master cylinder or not? Thank you for your time and if you don't know thank you anyway and have a good day.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sue,

I would get a second opinion on your brakes and the noise, it sounds like the mechanic is lazy and doesn't want to help you out. Let me know what the second mechanic says, thanks.

Hi Matt,

No, there is no tool to test brake pressure, just how fast your car stops in an emergency, lol. What is wrong with your vehicle? Give me some good details, thanks Matt.


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

I have a 2001 Accura El premium. I feel some grinding and vibrations from the back(although not %100 sure if it's coming from the back or front) everytime i applied my brakes. Is it just the pads or the rotors?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Grifter,

I would think it's just the pads, but if the brakes are metal to metal, you will need to replace both the pads and the rotors. Let me know if you have more questions Grifter, thanks.


Josh 2 years ago

Hi Eddie, I have a 2003 Infiniti G35 Sport Coupe. It has happened a few times where I press on my breaks to come to a stop at a stop sign or something (brakes work fine and transmission shifts smoothly) and when I take my foot off the break my car doesn't do the automatic drive forward (I'm unsure what it is called - but where the car drives itself at a low speed without pressing on the gas pedal) and then when I do push on the gas to try to go it revs high and then jumps and goes. Would you have any advice on why this would be happening? Thanks!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Josh,

I would start by checking the transmission fluid, if it's low, top it off and check for leaks. Let me know what you find Josh, thanks, and if you have more questions, you know where to find me :)


Josh 2 years ago

Thanks! I'll give that a try. I don't know if it has anything to do with the brakes or not -- I just noticed it only happens when I press on the brakes (sometimes) especially if they're applied hard. I've found that if I notice it 'sticking' before I push on the gas - if I give the brake another press it usually gets it going; But I will definitely check out the fluid and let you know if I have any questions or find anything! Thanks again.


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

Thank you! One more thing, how can i tell if it's the front or rear rotors/pads that needs to be replaced?


Lee 2 years ago

Hi Eddie, hope you can help.

Today i noticed my car is not stopping properly and the brakes seems to work ok for a bit, but then when trying to come to a complete stop the break peddle becomes very difficult to push down, as though the car is off, then after awhile itll let me break and again, its a cycle, and its making me what to cry lol, had alot go wrong with my previous car, now have this one and got new problems :(


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

OK Josh,

Ill wait to hear back from you.

Hi Grifter,

When applying the brakes, if the steering wheel shakes, most likely it's the front rotors, if the seats shake, it's the rears.

Hi Lee,

So is the brake pedal sinking to the floor and you can't push it down any more? It almost sounds like a master cylinder, but I'm not sure. Could you give me any more details? Thanks Lee.


Lee 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

One min it works fine, then you just cant push the pedal down at all and the car doesnt come to a standstill, for example, ill be driving along then i get ready to stop so ill use the breaks, then release them, then ill use them again to come to a standstill and the peddle is solid cant be pushed down at all, give it a few seconds and itll work again, its a Ford Focus 1.8 tdci, doesnt idle very well either, if i leave the car for a few hours and try to start it it will sometimes stall and trying to start it again is a pain, i was wondering if this is all due to a brake vac?


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

i'll check that. Thank you!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Lee,

It sounds like you have a vacuum leak at the booster or booster vacuum hose, this would give you a hard brake pedal and would also make your engine stall. A vacuum leak is usually accompanied by a loud hissing noise when the engine is running. Let me know what you find Lee, thanks.

Hi Grifter,

You are very welcome, keep me posted :)


Lee 2 years ago

Hi Eddie, thank you, managed to get it to my local garage, they said its the break servo? so hoping my warrenty will cover the most part of the costs, thank you for your time and help :)


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Nice Lee,

Warranty is always a good price :) Let me know what you end up paying and what it is they actually fixed once you get the repair order paperwork, thanks Lee.


Lee 2 years ago

Hi eddie, i think the quote was £550 all in, if the part is bought from Ford directly, if i source the part myself he said it would prob be around £225. Will let you know once all is done and dusted, thank you again.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

You are very welcome Lee :)


Dominic 2 years ago

Hi Eddie, am using Toyota Corolla S 2006, 4days ago, i notice my brake-pedal is falling down each time am on traffic-jam, i was ask to buy the caliper and master cylinder which i did, the problem I'm having now is the one of the back wheel and forth wheel freez/stuck, when i drive the car in less than 3-4mins the disc was very hot to the extent with an burning-odor, please what will i do?


Dominic 2 years ago

Hi Eddie, am using Toyota Corolla S 2006, 4days ago, i notice my brake-pedal is falling down each time am on traffic-jam, i was ask to buy the caliper and master cylinder which i did, the problem I'm having now is the one of the back wheel and forth wheel freez/stuck, when i drive the car in less than 3-4mins the disc was very hot to the extent with an burning-odor, now iwas ask to buy the ABS which he stated is the problem, please what will i do?


MZ 2 years ago

Hi I had some new shocks and struts put on my 2006 dodge 1500 and they said I needed the control arm replaced so they did that also I drove for about 6 hours and the brakes locked up. I noticed they had put a hole in the front drivers side boot I was wondering if the grease would get around the abs sensor and cause the brakes to lock up, they are telling no it is another problem?


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Dominic,

Don't replace the ABS pump or modulator without getting a second opinion, it sounds to me like this mechanic doesn't know what the real problem is and they are just throwing parts at it. Please get a second opinion and let me know what they find, thanks.

Hi MZ,

I have seen mechanics install the caliper with the rubber brake line twisted one revolution causing a caliper to bind because the hose is blocked and the pressure cannot release from the caliper. That would be my best guess on that problem, brakes don't usually just lock up out of nowhere, usually there is some sort of warning. Grease getting on the ABS sensor will not cause a problem, it may cause the ABS to kick on sometimes because the pickup pattern is distorted from the grease, but it will not cause the brakes to bind or lock up. Keep you guard up on this one, something sounds fishy. Keep me posted on what happens MZ, I very curious, thanks.


overtime38 2 years ago

Hi Eddie

What they told me the E brake was messed up in the rear driver side drum,

I assume this happen when I had to get it out of my garage to get it towed, and had to force it out because the brakes were locked up . So I am at a loss not knowing what actually caused it to lock up in the first place.


Dominic 2 years ago

Thank you very much for the respond, i told the mechanic just what you said, he was ashamed with no options but Sir what will be the second opinion? I want you to tell me what this mechanic has to do because i already ask him to return the caliper which maybe a bad used-one, Eddie what can the mechanic do now to solve this problem? Does it has to do with the ABS? The car has a abs but there is no abs light in the dash-board since i brought the car.

Just last night, i tried to drive the car to the fuel-station, my coming back was very hard, the right wheel passenger side lockup, i have to get water to cool it down before i move the car back home, please help me to teach this mechanic what to do next.


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie! I found out that it was the front brakes that's causing the problems.Brake pads are worn out and my mechanic couldn't salvage the rotors so we had to replace them as well. Car is running nice and smooth now. Thanks for all the help and info! Really appreciate it!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Overtime,

When the vehicle was parked in the garage, how long was it there before you moved it, and was the e-brake on for the whole time it sat? Let me know, thanks.

Hi Dominic,

I would have the garage tow it to another mechanic at no charge because they can fix it, they are guessing at whats wrong, not diagnosing it.

Hi Grifter,

I'm glad you finally figured it out, and you are very welcome for the help, thanks you for returning with feedback. If you ever need any automotive help, you know where to find me :)


Jenny 2 years ago

Hello,

I had some recall work done on my Volvo XC90. I took it home and a couple of days later I started hearing a loud noise from the front. I drove it around the block once the noise got really loud and realized that it was not accelerating as it should and when I would press the gas it wouldn't go it at all a few times. I got it home and looked under the hood and noticed the little part, brake booster switch, was broken. The cap was broken off and a spring was laying in my fuse box panel. I called Volvo and asked if they had to remove this part to recall work because it looked like it had been pried off and I could see marks on the plastic cap. They said no and I decided to order the part myself and put it on. I put it on and the car idled better but the loud noise is still present. I am curious if that switch was broken all that time after they pried it off (since no one else has ever worked on it) would it cause the brake booster to go bad. Also, I guess I am curious if a brake booster would make this loud noise. The noise is coming from that location of the car but I have not crawled under it as of yet. The noise is a loud humming noise and it somewhat sounds like a bad belt? maybe. I have 100k on the Volvo and it has only been in the shop for Volvo recall work. They said everything was fine when they handed me the keys and now I am stuck at my house with a 2 year old and awaiting some information from Volvo. It is kinda strange because my younger sister has an S40 and it is also in the shop having a new engine put in at this time. I love my Volvo but I am hoping this isn't a sign of things to come. However, I guess I have been lucky to drive for 100k miles without it ever having an issue. If you have any advice for me i would greatly appreciate it!!!!!!!! Thanks a bunch!!!!

Jenny


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jenny,

The way I see it is the mechanic just got done doing work on your vehicle and now it's not running right, I don't think it coincidence because there is a broken part under the hood. When a car has a 100k on it, plastic parts start to get brittle and brake easy, the mechanic could have broken the part with their arm while reaching for something else in that area.

I would take it back and let them know that the car has made a noise and is not running right since they worked on it. Also explain to them that the part was broken right after the repair so you replace it yourself hoping to avoid another visit to the dealership.

Keep me posted on how they treat the incident, And let me know (if they tell you) what they find, thanks Jenny.


Laura 2 years ago

My steering wheel shakes when braking, covered that. My pedal jumps up and down, you covered that too. But the most annoying thing my car does is makes this horrid winding down sound when braking. A woooooooooomp woooomp wooomp woomp womp, while my steering wheel is shaking and pedal is jumping. The car almost seems to pull back while "womping" lol. I have lost all hope that anyone will ever understand what I'm talking about . :(


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Laura,

It kinda sounds like a song, whoop there it is... whoop there it is... lol.

It sounds like either the rotors have a problem or drums have a problem. What kind of vehicle is this (year, make, and model?) and does it have drum brake in the rear? Have the rotors been resurfaced recently? Let me know Laura, thanks.


Laura 2 years ago

I have a 2007 Pontiac g6. The back brakes and roters are brand new but the tire is missing some lug nuts. The pins haven't been greased back there but the problem sound is in the front I think after reading some of your past advice (which is valuable knowledge and thanks for sharing with us) my stearing wheel shakes and my car slowly winds down. The "pressure " in te back breaks might be uneven as well bc an untrained family member replaces all my parts for me. I would not know any of this if u hadn't have pointed these things out so clearly in your blogs. Thankyou for caring enough to do so.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Thanks Laura, that really means a lot to me :)

The first this I would do is buy the missing lug nuts and have them installed asap. Having missing lug nuts can cause your rotors to warp, not only that, it causes a lot of stress on the hub. Next I would have a mechanic go for a ride with you, the mechanic may be able to diagnose the noise just by driving your car (if they're good :) It's the noise that confuses me, I'm not sure if it's a caliper, suspension, or rotor noise, the steering wheel shake is most definitely warped front rotors. Keep me posted on what you find Laura, thanks.


overtime38 2 years ago

Hi Eddie

The E brake was never on and it only sat in the garage overnight .


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Overtime, sorry for the late response.

I'm not sure of you have a drum or disc style e-brake but sometimes the retainer pins brake on drum style brakes and cause the brake to seize or I have seen brake shoes/pads come apart because of age and get lodged causing the rotor/drum to seize.


Lj 2 years ago

Hey Eddie

I have a ford falcone forte series 3 , when i step on the brake pedal when turning i can feel somthing rubbing against the break pedal . What can I do? Cheers


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Lj,

Is the vehicle making any noise when this happens? If so, what kind of noise is it? Does the steering wheel shake? Let me know.


Kurt 2 years ago

I have a 2001 s10. Truck run fine until a month ago the left rear break pad started squeaking. I went and bought new pads and replaced them. I drove home (10 miles) and the brakes were dragging the entire time. I then replaced the caliper on the left rear. Brakes worked good after and no dragging and idles fine.Next my truck was making a sound from the rear. It's noticeable when I brake but only from 30mph to 0. I can very faintly ear it at highway speeds. I then took off the left rear backing plate because I was told they sometimes rub. The plate was rusted all to hell. However the sound is still there. Sometimes when I take sharp turns the rear noise gets higher pitched. Not sure if the rotor needs resurfaced or not. I'm stumped!


Joseph 2 years ago

I have a 2000 mustang. It used to have warped rotor and out-of-round tires that would make the car shake a bit at all speeds. Recently, a family member replaced all of the pads/rotors with the new Honeywell kits. I also replaced the tires to eliminate all the issues. Now, the steering wheel will shake at certain times (usually after lots of braking and high speed braking), and the brake pedal will pulsate. Also, the wheels will not spin freely when trying to turn them by hand on a lift. The rotors are not warped yet.


mike 2 years ago

i have 2000 dodge neon and i noticed when i stop and go my left rear tire freezes,but if put the gear reverse and drive backward and then forward drive it works. it does not happen every time i make stops. do you know what is causing that problem?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kurt,

Sorry I didn't see your post. If the rotor has a rust ridge, most likely one of the anti rattle clips is not centered and is hitting the rotor. Check all your caliper clips and let em know what you find, thanks.

Hi Joe,

Sometimes when replacing rotors, the old rotors will leave a thin layer of rust on the hub, this rust needs to be cleaned off before installing the new rotors, if it isn't, you'll get a brake pulsation because the new rotors are not sitting flat on the hub. Let me know if this sounds like a possibility, thanks.

Hi Mike,

You probably have drum brakes in the rear and either a rear shoe came apart or a retaining clip broke. Have it checked and let me know what you find, thanks Mike.


Kurt 2 years ago

Also forgot to mention....figured out the other day that while driving around 25 mph that there is a sound like the right rear caliper is hanging up. if I take the stearing wheel and turn to the right at all there is a weird whinding sound. Just sounds like the right rear caliper is not functing right. It looks like it's still the original caliper. Maybe when I replaced the left side...now the right is off balance. Thanks for your time!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kurt,

It's a good possibility you need to replace the right caliper also, jack up that wheel and see if it's dragging, but I would still check all your caliper clips, it's very common for them to hit the rotor because they're not centered. Keep me posted Kurt, thanks.


joseph 2 years ago

Eddie,

Thanks, I will try that when this darn rain passes. The weird thing is that it doesn't always happen. It usually pulsates and shakes after braking several times or high speed braking.

When I come home after driving for 30 minutes, it gets insainly hot. The back brakes are touchable, but not the front. I can't even touch the rims without getting burned. I had a styrofoam cup that I used, and I touched the rotor with it to see how hot it was... it was enough to instantly vaporize it. It is so hot that my front black tires are turning goldish near the rims. Luckily those are under warrenty.

Also, letting the car sit for a long period of time and going in reverse seems to "reset" the issue. Do you think it might be the calipers?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Joe,

Yes, it's possible that the pistons are not returning enough and as the brake fluid gets hot, it expands and adds pressure to the pads causing them to drag on the rotors. Front rotors are always too hot to touch and can sometimes glow in the dark during extremely hard braking at high speeds, but your issue is different. You say you can't spin the wheels freely, so that tells me the brakes are dragging. I would have the calipers checked, and let me know what you find, thanks Joe.


Joseph 2 years ago

Eddie,

I ended up taking it to a local shop that is probably the most honest in the state. He agreed it was the calipers, and replaced the whole assembly (brackets and all) on both sides for $230. Not bad at all!

Now the car truly feels like a muscle car! No drag, no resistance with shifting (it used to drag -shift since the brakes were restricting the speed/RPM that the car is used to), and no more vibration.

I want to thank you for your help, and I hope others listen to you!

P.S. You have another frequent reader! Haha


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Joe, that's awesome, now I just wish I had enough time to frequently write, lol. That was pretty cheap for both calipers and labor, Keep that mechanic on speed dial :) Well, if you ever need any automotive advice, you know where to fine me, take care for now Joe, and thanks for coming back here with your feedback, I really appreciate it.


mike 2 years ago

I jus help t put brakes on my 98 chevy truck 2 wheel drive front brakes after I got all done the Tire will not turn wheel rubbing on caliper recheck everything Need help


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mike,

Did you replace the calipers? Did you figure it out yet? Let me know, thanks.


Kurt 2 years ago

I broke down and bought the right rear caliper in hopes that it was the problem. It was! The middle clip had lost its hold and was rubbing against the rotar. The brakes were shot too and looked like the orginal. This is a 01 chevy s10 so not good. The inside one was on it last leg and the outside had about 2/5 life left. The piston went down when I put the c clamp on it but I figured changing it was better than keeping it. It still makes a slight sound. (Sounds like a bearing, and it's not when I turn right). The back left backing plate is removed and the back right rubs against the rotar. Everytime i turn the rotar off it has a lot of rust inside it. It has to be the backing pate. When I had both tires jacked up it was clearly rubbing against the rotar. Should I remove it and if I do should I replace them. I have 2 new ones ready to go. Thanks a lot! Caliper and brake pads for the rear cost 130 and I put a new rotar on the back left just to be sure. Glad i saved money and did it myself!


kell 2 years ago

Hi ! i just noticed some liquid leaking from under the top right of car next to the top right tire. Its perfectly clear ..it started today after i parked my car. I just bought this 2013 Yaris like 1 week ago with only 36,000 miles. Any ideas what this is? thanks


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Kurt,

Yeah, I would replace both rotors if they are that rusted, let me know how everything comes out, thanks.

Hi Kell,

I really think it's water, not sure from what, maybe early morning dew collecting somewhere and then rolling off?? Let me know what you think, thanks.


Kurt 2 years ago

The back left rotor is brand new. The back right looks fine. The backing plate rubs and almost causes a chirping sound when I turn right at slow speed. That's what I think at least. Rust deposits sit in the rotor everytime i take off the tire and check. Rotors are only 35 bucks so I might go ahead of change it just to have a new rear brake system. Are backing plates worth replacing?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Not really, as long as they are not rusted off or loose, I would just bend them away from the rotors to stop the noise. Let me know how everything feels after you replace the rotor Kurt, thanks.


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

How it goin? It's me again with my 2001 Acura EL. Park brake light went ON while im driving so i checked the brake fluid reservoir and the level was close to empty. So i top it up and the Park brake light went OFF. But a couple of days later it went and stayed ON again when i started my car and brake pedal went soft(all the way doen the floor). Went to check for some leaks and found a big puddle of brake fluid under the tire from the driver's rear side(LR). I can't exactly tell where it's coming from(caliper,rotors,etc). Is this something that gonna need a mechanic to get fixed or is there any chance that i can fix this myself?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Grifter, and welcome back :)

Fill the brake fluid reservoir and have someone step on the brakes softly, check the area that is wet at the LR caliper and see where the fluid is coming from. You should be able to fix it yourself, as long as it's not a rotted metal brake line. Let me know what you find Grifter, thanks.


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

I'll go give it a try. Thank you!

I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the fast response(as always


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

You're very welcome Grifter, I'll wait to hear what you find :)


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

It was one of the bolt in the LR caliper that is leaking. The one with a silver metal(spring?) wrap around it. Am i gonna need to change the caliper?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Great! That should be very easy Grifter, just make sure you bleed the system after installation. Let me know if you need any help :)


Steve b. 2 years ago

I have changed my brake caliber on a 94 Dodge Ram 1500. I still have a week with the brake line goes in the brake caliber and I don't know why what can I do


Matt Ruiz 2 years ago

I have a 2000 Honda Civic EX and I here a hiss noise coming from my rear brakes the hiss noise sounds more like air being released and not scraping of the pads any idea what this can be?

Thanks in advance!


Cronje 2 years ago

I have a Mazda Rustler 1.6i 2000 model. I have replaced my front rotors and pads and my CV's but my car still shudder when i brake and my steering wheel still shakes and my car shakes allot. can this be the the rear drums and rear brake pads?


Paresh 2 years ago

My Car - Chevrolet Beat

Problem - Discbrake hitting problem

Request you pl. advice above problem normal or any other


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Steve,

You may be missing the crush washer on bot sides of the banjo fitting? Let me know, thanks.

Hi Matt,

Most likely it's the wear indicator on the brake pads hitting the rotor. I would have the rear brakes checked, and keep me posted on what you find. Thanks.


Grifter Vergara 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

Just finished replacing my LR brake caliper yesterday and it was pretty easy like you've said. Did the bleeding of the system as well. Thanks for giving me the confidence to do it myself otherwise i would've taken it to a shop and it'll probably cost me double or triple on what i spent doing it myself. Brakes is doing great since. Thank you so much Eddie!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Cronje,

Yes, the rear drums can cause just as much shake as the front rotors, but it will usually shake the seats and body of the vehicle, not the steering wheel.

Hi Paresh,

When you say, "brake disk hitting problem" What is the rotor hitting? the caliper, backing plate, wheel? Let me know, thanks.

Hi Grifter,

You are very welcome, I'm glad you're a success story, and even more happy that you had the courage to tackle the job yourself. You don't need to be a rocket scientist to work on cars, you just need a little time, patients, and mechanical ability :)

You know where to find me if you ever need any automotive advice Grifter, take care for now.


Quintin 2 years ago

Hey

Well I recently replaced the front pads on my 2013 Opel (Vauxhall) Corsa 2door. And the brakes are now sometimes(not always) very hard when I push them, if I immediately leave the pedal and reapply pressure it is fine. Also the car seems to pull to one side when pressure is applied on the brakes.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Quintin,

It sounds to me like you have a caliper slide pin hanging up or it's frozen. Another possibility is that you may have twisted your rubber brake line going to one of your calipers. Which ever way your car is pulling when braking, check the opposite caliper. So if it's pulling right when braking, check the left cailper. Let me know what you find Quintin, thanks.


Roy 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

I have a 99 Dodge Dakota 4x4 that gets very little use (today was first drive in 2 months). Last brake work done about 2k miles ago, complete new front rotors, pads, and calipers. Pedal went to the floor today. Brake light and ABS light came on. Lucky to get it back home safely (3 mile round trip). Checked fluid, halfway between fill and full. What could have gone wrong sitting for 2 months?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Roy,

It sounds like you blew a brake line, did you check all your lines from the master to the wheels? I would start by checking all the lines. Let me know what you find, thanks Roy.


thranax profile image

thranax 2 years ago from Rep Boston MA

Thank you for sharing major causes of brake malfunction! My breaks for a while were pulsating up and down on my suv, but when I bring it in to be checked the mechanics say the brakes are still in good shape. Maybe its just because its an old car? The car itself passed its state inspection maybe im just too sensitive in my feet.

~thranax~


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Thranax,

Your brakes may look OK, but your rotors or drums are warped causing your brake pedal to pulsate up and down. Let me know if you have any other questions, thanks Thranax :)


Mario silva 2 years ago

I changed my master cylinder, calipers and brakes but when I start my vehicle the caliper on left side gets very hard and will not let the wheel turn and get very hot. Do you have any idea when can be causing this problem?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mario

It sounds to me like you have a blocked brake line, you could have twisted the rubber line at the caliper when changing it out. I would start at the caliper flex line, if it's OK, check to see if you can push the caliper piston back in. Let me know what you find, thanks Mario.


Virajpk 2 years ago

Hi Eddie,

Great articles and information you give. Thanks for the good work on the knowledge you give. I have a concern which I think you may be able to help me out on. I have a Skoida Fabia 1.2 TDI, 2011 model. Recently,a sin very recent about a month, i have been witnessing a strange issue. When I press down my brakes, I get an engine rev [engine accelerating], it's like as if I have put my feet on the accelerator pedal on idle and you have the high rev & noise. I immediately take my feet of pedal and on the second pump of the brake the rev noise is gone.

Under the bonnet no sign of any kind of leaks nothing. It is like a engine diesel runaway. Some say it is the turbo and some say it cud be the ECU. Well this incident to my knowledge happened after I had to drive through a small channel of water due to heavy rains. Can you guide me on this Eddie?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Virajpk,

If the rpm only rise a little, you may have a vacuum leak in the brake booster. Do you hear any hissing noises when you step on the brake, like an air leak? Let me know how many rpm the engine rises, thanks Virajpk.


james h 2 years ago

I. have a 2007 dodge caravan and my. brakes are heard to push down on to were it. does not stop the gan wright a way y is it doing that


WesP 2 years ago

I have a used 2002 Dodge Durango sport when I first bought this vehicle I change the rotors and the brake pads now when I'm on the interstate doing like 70 miles an hour and I hit the brakes there is a shuttering also this vehicle has brake drums on the back I change those as well I did not change the drums just the shoes in the morning when I get in this vehicle and start backing up I have a loud squeal from the rear brakes I'm sort of lost can you help?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi James,

It sounds like the brake booster has a vacuum leak. Is the engine idle smooth or rough?

Hi Wes,

The rotors may have warped already causing the shutter, and if there is a lot of moisture in the mornings, it could be causing the rear brakes to squeak. If it's dry, you may have some rust buildup on the lip of the drum causing it to squeak. I recommend removing the drum on the side that is squeaking and check for any loose rust chips floating around in the brake drum. Let me know if this helps Wes, thanks.


Dallen Haven 2 years ago

I have a 2012 honda accord. About half a dozen times in the last two years I've had a problem where I can not brake for a short period. I am in reverse backing out of the driveway (direction doesn't seem to matter.) when the wheel is slightly turned and I'm not pressing on the gas, I go to brake so that I can pull forward, and the pedal is hard. It will not move and I can not brake. Luckily I've never been going fast and am always able to just switch to D drive and go on my way. The car makes a funny sound and kinda shakes when I try and press on the brake. It even almost sounds and feels as if the wheels have locked up and are skidding.

Do I have a problem with my brakes? I know nothing about cars but I love to drive them! Like I said this has happened only 5-6 times in 2 years


Dallen Haven 2 years ago

Also to give you more info. The car has never had any other breaking problems. It now has approx 45k miles on it after 2 years with the original break pads (I think). The temperature while my problem occurs has never been above 80 or below 50.

The steering seems to lock up for a second as well.

I'm usually only in a slight turn- back up. Like an angled parking space or when you exit a driveway.

I read a post above about braking and steering being "hard" but it sounded do-able. Just to get you the best information, let me be clear. The steering was locked and would NOT turn, and the brake pedal would NOT budge.

(On a separate note, I've learned from personal experience that if you push the brake enough times while the car is not turned on that you can't push the brake any more. It slowly gets stiffer and then also will NOT budge, but once you turn the car on it relaxes)

Hope the extra info helps, and thank you in advance, any ideas are very much appreciated!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Dallen,

Yes, you have something going on. I would take it to a Honda dealer ASAP, it may be covered under warranty still. It's two different problems, I think? I have worked on Honda's for a long time and have never heard or seen anything like that before. You really need to have it checked though, if this happens while your driving, it will be dangerous! Let me know what you find Dallen, thanks.


Shawntay 2 years ago

I just replaced my front breaks myself today. On my chevy Tahoe 2001 n its got dual pistons which ive never done before. Plenty of single pistons but never dual, but since replacement my breaks r now running hot n my trucks wobbling during driving it at higher speeds how come did i break the pistons? I did the decompression on the dual separately meaning one at a time was i suppose to do them both at the same time? Did i break the pistons? I bleed the breaks afterwards passenger side first of course then driver

What happened what did i do wrong or what didn't i do? Help please enlighten me please. shawntaystarrsmith@gmail.com

Shawntay


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Shawntay,

Did you lube the slides? Did you replace the rotors? I don't think it has anything to do with the way you pushed the pistons in. Let me know about the slides and rotors, thanks.


Caitlin 2 years ago

I have a very late model Suburban. Braked to a stop at a light, then with my foot on the brake, brake pedal hardened and car idled forward and bumped car in front of me. I hit the brakes several times but nothing happened - no brakes. Its at the dealership, but they haven't found a thing yet. Any ideas?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Caitlin,

It sounds like the brake booster has failed, but it very unusual to happen like that. Let me know what the dealer says, I'm very curious, thanks.


lynette 2 years ago

Hi, I have a 97 q45, the problem I'm having is if my foot is on the brake it's really hard to steer the car. It's like the power steering stops working anytime i brake. What might cause this?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Lynette,

If you were to step on the brakes real hard while holding the steering wheel lightly, does the vehicle pull one way or another?


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Hi Eddie I just replaced the front brake pads caliper and rotors on the front of a 2000 Mustang LX non ABS due to one side being worn almost out and the other side looked like new, rear pads and rotors were also replaced also. I know have a confusing problem after having bled the brakes in correct sequence many times with mi Mighty Vac and using almost a full quart of new DOT4 fluid I have a very firm brake pedal with the engine off with my foot on the brakes and start the car the pedal drops way down close to the floor and was nothing like this prior to any of my work. I also tried just for kicks bleeding with the engine running which was of no help. Thanks in advance for any help


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mike,

Try bleeding the brakes manually. Have someone sit in the drivers seat and pump the brake pedal while you open the bleeders one at a time. So here is how you do it. Go to the caliper furthest from the master, open the bleeder and have the person pump the pedal 8 times, on the 8th pump, have them hold it to the floor and then you close the bleeder. Check the fluid level and top off, move to the next caliper closer to the master and repeat. You may have to do this a couple times, but just try one round first, and let me know how you make out.


Bob 2 years ago

I have a 2000 ford ranger, when I apply the brakes I sometimes hear what sounds like a "clicking" sound from the left side brake


Bob 2 years ago

I should have said left front brake area


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Hey Eddie thanks for the advise I was finally able to get a friend over to help with a manual bleed I also kept a piece of clear tubing on the bleeder in a mason jar with the other end of the tubing submerged in fluid and found no air and did the process several times and found no air at any time, I used a full quart again. I have now used a total of two quarts. I also have now properly bench bled and installed a brand new MC not a reman thinking fluid was bypassing inside the MC and rebled all the system. The problem still remains engine off very firm pedal engine on the pedal sinks close to the floor quickly. I'm so confused at this point. Thanks for any suggestions.


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Eddie a bit more info the right front and left rear pads were worn out and the left front and right rear were in good condition. So after a lot of thought that is another reason I replaced the MC. Just trying supply you with all the info I have. I really need help this is killing my brain, lol


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mike,

Did you have the low brake pedal before you replaced all the brake parts? Which calipers did you replace?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Bob,

Is the noise a single click or a rhythmic type click that clicks with the speed of the wheel?


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Thanks for the response Eddie, No low brake pedal prior to replacing the front calipers and pads. List of things replaced include front pads front calipers, rear pads, rear rotors, and MC. The falling brake pedal became evident right after replacing only the front pads when I replaced them I used a c clamp to drive the pistons back with the bleeders shut. After doing so I decided on new front rotor replacement due to the major difference in pad wear from right to left side.


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Just to confirm my answer the pads were replaced and afterwards when I found the falling brake pedal I then replaced the front calipers. Man this should have been a 30 minute job when I first started and now I don't have a clue how many hrs I've spent on this but I can't give up now. I just can not understand why 1 pump of the brake pedal with the engine off gives a rock solid pedal, then you start it and it falls almost to the floor. I have it up on 6 jack stands and a floor jack so I have started it placed it in gear and the rear brakes are able to stall the engine when the brake is applied, and I can not move the fronts with a 20" breaker bar and a jack handle extended from that for extra leverage. I must be missing something very simple. Thanks again for your help.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Mike,

Pressing the pistons back in with a C clamp should not do any harm.

You know that the brake pedal will be very stiff with the engine off because there is no vacuum assist from the brake booster right? Then the brake pedal will drop and feel much softer when the engine is running.

So if the pedal is very soft, check all the caliper slide pins for free movement, if the calipers slides do not move freely, the piston will extend too far causing a soft brake pedal. Be sure to check the caliper that did not have worn brake pads because that might be the problem caliper.

Does the pedal pump up with the engine running? Like if you pump the pedal with the engine running, does the pedal come up higher? Let me know,


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Thanks again for your response, I am aware that the booster should make for a softer pedal with the engine running. The slide pins I have not checked so you may be on to something there I will check that out. To answer your last question with the engine running the pedal never pumps up engine off one pump and solid as a rock. One other thing is that after all the bleeding not sure about before the rotors take a lit of force to move ie you have to put the tire on the car to get them to rotate and it is still tight even then. I going tout and check those slide pins now.

Thanks again


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Eddie I found 1 caliper slide pin on the rear that was rusted to the point I had to use a pipe wrench and hammer to get it out, cleaned the inside out with a wire brush on a Dremel tool and replaced with a new one. If you recall the low pedal problem started when I had only done replacement of the front pads and calipers. I did not replace the front rotors at that time since they appeared to be in good condition. Starting to wonder if the rotors are beyond their limits causing a low pedal. Any thoughts? Thanks so much for your responses.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

The pedal comes up higher with the engine off because you use all the vacuum in the booster, therefore it causes the pedal to get stiff, this is totally normal.

If the rotors are dragging and you can't turn them freely after applying the brakes, you have a problem. They should turn with one finger, so this may be your problem. Make sure you didn't twist any of the rubber flex lines when installing the calipers, this could cause a restriction of brake fluid when applying and releasing the brakes. clean and lube all caliper slide pins so all rotors spin freely or with very little drag.

I don't think the rotor thickness has anything to do with the soft pedal because this problem started after you replace the calipers and pads, but it's not a bad idea to measure them just to be safe. Also, check the new calipers, be sure the front rotors spin freely. It's easy to over look a simple problem, and just because you have new parts, doesn't mean they're not faulty, so double check all moving parts, flex lines and pins. Let me know what you find. And, you're welcome, we will find the problem, it just takes a little time and process of elimination :)


Mike Kribbs 2 years ago

Eddie thanks for all your help. Problem is now fixed I found one new rotor that was not working as it should have and one brake line that had evidently collapsed inside. Everything is working great now. It's been great having your advise along the way. Many thanks

Mike


Rick 2 years ago

I just replaced a leaky caliper on the right side, now my car pulls to the left when i hit the brakes.

The caliper came with the mounting bracket so new pins/slides and brake hardware. The right side tire is a tiny bit harder to turn than the left. I loosened the right side bleeder and it didnt make any differance.

No pulling right before caliper change, could the new caliper be bad?


Busi 2 years ago

Hello Eddie, u doing a great job here. Thnx lots for your patience. Iv got a 98 ford explorer and brakes been working OK since I bought in 2011. But recently, the brake pedal pulsates under my foot when braking and the pulsation amplitude is much higher when braking with AC on.

Havnt changed brake fluid since I bought car, but up to 5 mechanics have insisted that I don't need to change it. Have inspected disc, pads, fluid level and others and everything looks OK. Any suggestions?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Wow Mike, that's great!!

I know it was a lot of trial and error, but sometimes we need to check things two or three times. That collapsed brake line was definitely your problem. Glad you got it all squared away. You are very welcome, any time you need some automotive advise, you know where to find me :)

Hi Rick,

Sorry so late with a response. Make sure you didn't twist the brake flex line when installing the caliper. If it looks OK, check to make sure the lines are not pinched. Did you bleed the caliper with no problems?

Hi Busi,

Thanks for the compliment :) It sounds like your brake rotors are not true. With age, rotor thickness varies within the rotors brake pad surface causing the brake pedal to bounce or pulsate when the brakes are applied. This variation cannot be seen with the naked eye, the rotor thickness would need to be measured with a micrometer at different points on the rotor to verify the problem. I would either have the rotors resurfaced or replaced to remedy the problem. Let me know if this helps solve your pulsation, thanks.


Busi 2 years ago

Thnx lots for response. Will check out the rotors. Though this just came out of the blue..... One day, brakes working fine as usual, next day I begin to notice up-down shaking of the pedal under my foot when braking. I'm Thinking that rotor wear should be more of a gradual process. And the pulsation doesn't happen all the time when braking, just happens unpredictably, but has only happened when braking from high speed. And after writing my initial post, I noticed abs light came on over a short drive (for the first time in years) but its gone off now and my scan tool cannot read abs so no codes. Pls do you still think its the rotors? And is rotor resurfacing/changing an urgent repair critical to safety, or I can delay it by 1-2 months?

Thnx lots for your good work on this site.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Busi,

No need to change the rotors anytime soon, you could drive the vehicle for ever and not have a problem. The ABS light is something different, if the kick back in the brakes is from the ABS modulator, that wouldn't be a rotor problem. If the light comes on and then goes off, you may have a faulty wheel sensor or damaged pick up ring. If you have more questions, don't hesitate to ask, that's why I'm here :)


Busi 2 years ago

Hello

Had a scare while driving now, havnt used the car since Saturday but 2 day the car seemed reluctant to stop at a junction, more pedal kickback under my foot and abs light came back on. I'm at the mechanic now and haggling for right price. He claims its the sensors at the wheel and he can fix them without changing them. Hope he isn't playing games though they say he's a break specialist.

Pls is there any chance of a total break failure if wheel sensors are not changed and does any work need to be done on the abs unit?

Also the mechanic says he will need to remove the dashboard instrument panel to synchronise fixed sensors with sensor in the instrument panel, and I don't know if this is just a ruse to charge me more cash.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Busi,

What is the mechanic looking to charge you? They shouldn't need to remove the dash to fix this problem.


Teresa wine 2 years ago

I have a 2000 dodge stratus that I am having repeat problems with the brakes. The brakes have been replaced 3 times, along with the wheel cylinder, that has blown each time. I also had The rotors replaced. All the springs have been replaced. We are at wits end now that it has happened again! 4 different mechanics have checked the car and no luck thus far. My parking brake cable has been broke for a while but it doesn't feel like it is on. Could that be part of my problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated


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eddiecarrara 2 years ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Teresa,

I'm not sure what the problem is? Are you asking why your brakes are wearing out and why the wheel cylinder keep blowing? If that is you question, it would have nothing to do with the the e-brake cable being broken. Let me know if this answers your question, thanks.


M Howrose Crosten 22 months ago

I'm ashamed to confess myself a man with limited-to-no knowledge about the workings of a car; I found this piece very useful as my steering wheel shakes when my brakes are applied. I've wondered why for quite some time, but it appears I've found a go-to source for mechanical issues. Wonderful info, sir!


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eddiecarrara 22 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hello Mr Howrose Crosten,

We all have our strengths and weaknesses, so there is no need to be ashamed, I judge no one :) I also have another website with even more information @ simplecaranswers.com where you can ask questions and even add pictures for show and tell if needed. So when you have a free minute, visit the site, and then save the url in your favorites, you never know when you're going to need an automotive question answered, lol. Thank you Mr Howrose Crosten, your feedback is priceless.


Benjamin 21 months ago

I have an 06 grand prix and i just changed my front rotors and brakes. The rear rotors n brakes are good already. So my problem with it being when i need to use my brakes suddenly i feel slippage in my pedal and im not able to come to a sudden stop. im stumped to be honest and im trying to tackle this before i have any severe problems


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eddiecarrara 21 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Ben,

I'm not really sure what you mean by slippage? Do you hear any noises? Is the pedal kicking back? Do you hear the ABS pump working at that time? Let me know, thanks.


Ryan 21 months ago

Hi there, I have a similar issue to Bob.

Replaced brake pads, drums and rotors yesterday, and since I've heard a rhythmic clicking noise that clicks faster depending on how fast I'm going.

I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 21 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Ryan,

I recommend checking the shims, sometimes they are not centered on the caliper and slightly hit the rotor. Check them first and let me know what you find, thanks.


Mathew 20 months ago

Hey Eddie.

I have replace the pads, calipers and rotors on the rear of my 2001 vw jetta tdi. When I took off the old pads I noticed that one set was worn out while the other was not.

I have run the car for about a week and it looks like the same problem is still there.

I bled the brakes so I know it's getting fluid.

What do you think?

Thanks


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 20 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Matt,

Your caliper slide pins are probably frozen or you have a piston not retracting after braking. I recommend taking the calipers apart and check every moving part on each caliper. Let me know what you find, thanks.


Joanum 17 months ago

Hi - hoping you can give some advice. When gentling braking to a halt, I sometimes get a nasty jolt under the brake pedal which feels like something was stuck and then releasing - it sounds quite loud too - almost sounds like a twisted cable bouncing back into place sometime. Has no effect on performance of brakes and only happens when slowly pulling to a stop anf not everytime just now and then. Had general brakes checked and all fine - mention has been made that it might be abs related. No abs warning comes up. Before i get a mechanic to look it over I just wondered whether you could give any guidance. Thanks so much :)


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Joanum,

Your description does sound like the ABS is kicking in and pushing/kicking the brake pedal back, the noise could be the ABS pump running. It's possible you may have a faulty ABS sensor or a damaged / rusted ABS ring on the axle shaft. I recommend doing a visual inspection of all ABS sensors and rings to start. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.


Stephanie 17 months ago

Hi eddie,

I have a 99 cavalier and the brake line rusted and we replaced both sides. Now we bled all brakes and only the front drivers side and back passenger ones bled. Now the brake pedal is hard and when halfway down it pops or clicks and then goes to the floor. We replaced the master cylinder as only two ports on it had fluid coming out when checking them. New one on and the same thing. Frustratef


crystal 17 months ago

Question. I have a 1999 chevolet blazer and I got my brakes done 1 month ago and just yesterday my brake light came on and today the pedal went straight to the floor and wouldn't stop, but If I let off the brake and push again the breaks work. Is this a master cylinder problem.


Joanum 17 months ago

Hi Eddie - I have someone looking at it for me and gave him all the descriptions and options it might be, his impression at first looking at it, is that there's a problem with the Servo (a spring in there of some sort) but not counting out abs. So I still wait to hear.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 17 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Stephanie,

Sorry I didn't see your post. I know you probably have already fixed you issue, but it sounds like you have a caliper piston frozen or getting stuck, or it could be a frozen slide pin. Let me know what you find, it would be great information for other readers. Let me know if I can answer any other questions, I'll keep an eye out for a post :)

Hi Crystal,

It sounds like you're low on brake fluid and possibly have a leak. The pedal going to the floor could be caused by a bad master cylinder, but your brake light came on which leads me to believe you're low on brake fluid. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.

OK Joanum, thank you for the update :)


Jesusm1 14 months ago

Eddie, great site. I'm having squeaking issues on 2000 Dodge Stratus. The front driver side squeaks when braking. I replaced pads, new slide pins and boots and lubricated all areas with brake grease (silicone), but it still screechs and it's only on the front driver side. Would you recommend replacing rotors?


Don 14 months ago

Hi Eddie:

I have a 2000 Dodge caravan with a 3.3 engine with a brake problem.

At 15 mph the brake pedal gets hard and half of the braking goes away. The booster seems fine. The pedal drops when you start the car, about an inch, the pedal doesn't rise back up as I have my foot on it when I shut the engine off, meaning that the booster doesnt have a leak. changed check valve. bled rear brakes. Seem to go well am in process of bleeding fronts to eliminate collapsed hose. no Pulling when brakes applied or when problem occurs, which happens as I said at or below 15 mph. stopping seems normal otherwise.

Thanks Any Help

Don


Don 14 months ago

O.K. This is Don Again, Hi Eddie. Day 2, The 2000 Dodge Caravan. I believe at this point that the problem is the anti-lock (ABS) braking system activating. Symptoms are at 15 mph the brake pedal feels stiff, and braking effects changes, less braking. The funny thing is that there are no bells and whistles going off, ABS light, Check engine lights Nothing on the dash indicates any problems.

I also detected one wheel sensor that had been broken right where the speed sensor mounting bolt screws into hub. Someone had installed the bolt and used plastic ties to secure it.

My course of action today is to remove the broken wheel sensor and go to the scrap yard for another one, clean and install it, clean all the others and see if that doesn't resolve the annoying issue of the ABS activating without intended provocation.

Thanks

Don


Don 14 months ago

O.K., Hello Yet Again Eddie, Anti-lock system kicking in, resolved! As it turns out, The right front Wheel speed sensor mounting bracket was broken off right where the 10 mm bolt goes and so someone thought it wise to tie strap the speed sensor to the broken mount. Well the speed sensor pick up was scraping the surface of the ring on the cv joint causing the anti-lot to stay engaged....went to scrap yard, got new pick up...Installed it....Walla! It stopped engaging, BUT.....Through ALL of this, NOT 1 warning light, brake light, check engine light or ABS light!

Also I drove this van to the parts store, when I got there, I opened the hood, to resolve some basic engine emissions and vacuum hose issues when I discovered The overflow tank Bubbling! The darn Thing was overheating yet no indication was noted...The gauge isn't working as is non of the other warning lights, it would seem....The only way to keep the engine cool is, as you know, depress the A/C button to promote constant fan running which isn't good for the fans but it will keep the engine cool at least until I can get another look at it. Will check back here later for ideas on why the indicator equipment seems to be inoperative on this vehicle... Now I did find 1 Ground strap, from the body to the engine, that had been left disconnected, I reconnected it...Could have done some computer module damage running without the ground strap connected wouldn't you think or should I look for blown fuses or relays or something....

Thanks

Don


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 14 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jesusm1,

Replacing the rotors probably will not stop the squeak, did you happen to use OEM brake pads? Let me know, thanks.

Hi Don,

I don't think you need my help, you're figuring out everything on your own, lol. Yes, a missing ground strap can cause some issues, but I recommend checking all the fuses first with a test light, it the quickest and easiest way to check all your fuses. There wouldn't have been a warning light ( I don't think ) with your issue. I had a similar issue with my sons ABS system and it never turned on a light now that I think of it.

I have to say Don, your stories are awesome and very descriptive. Thanks for sharing. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.


Jesusm1 14 months ago

Eddie, thank you for responding. I appreciate it. Well, the brakes did come from O'Reily's and I can't find what it's made of (i.e. metallic, ceramics, etc.). I forgot to mention that the reason for the change was due to the screech (by the way, it was front passenger side, not driver side). Why would it only be the passenger side even with new brakes and hardware and lube replacement? I'm sure the O'Reily brake are not OEM. Thank you. Response gives me hope. MJ.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 14 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi MJ,

Do you hear the squeak when driving or only when braking? Or both?


sal 8 months ago

I have a 1999 dodge caravan had new rotors and brake pads put on brakes work fine no pulse or mush pedal but every so often the pedal shakes . some days it does not do it at all..what is it


sal 8 months ago

i have told you about my dodge caravan with new rotors and brake pads..............well I let my friend drive it for two days ,and he got no pedal shake........... am I braking to lightly ,or am I riding the brake to long when I get to a stop sign,,,,,,,,,,,............ sal


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eddiecarrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sal,

It's funny you mentioned that you ride the brake a long time during stops sometimes. If you're braking down a long hill and the rotor start getting very hot by the end of the hill, more than likely you're overheating the brakes and they begin to warp, once they cool down the vibration stops. Does this sound like your problem?


sal 8 months ago

no.......................... it makes a shake on the pedal once in a while it can be cold when i start the car and it happens for me when I take off and the pedal might do it and not going down hills. but it happens very seldom......... as i told you my friend drove it for 30 miles in the city and it never happened................... maybe , I,m riding the brakes I, start braking ,like a half block before I get to the stop sign....................... I think I,m a lousy driver............. I had a mechanic also drive it and he could not find anything wrong


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eddiecarrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hey Sal, that is a little weird, Do you hear a hum type noise when the pedal shakes? It could be the ABS system kicking in for some strange reason, and it would feel like a vibration in the pedal. Let me know, thanks.


Jim 8 months ago

Hello Eddie, I have an 06 scion tc. Break pedal goes to the floor. It does stop but isn't correct. I have bled all the lines and still have the issue. This problem started recently with no brake work being done previously. There are also no signs of leaking anywhere. When pumping brakes with the car off or on I hear a hiss noise coming from the front pass side, I believe it to be abs pump. I'm insure if this is normal or if that would or could cause my pedal to go almost to the floor. Thank you in advance!


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jim,

You said there are no signs of leaks, but are you losing fluid? Did you open the brake fluid reservoir and check the fluid level? Let me know, thanks.


Jim 8 months ago

No, am not losing any fluid at all. I did some stopping tests from 20mph and pedal goes to floor and abs makes all kinds of noise. It does stop but its far from correct. Is it possible its my abs pump, with it making a hiss sound internally? Was thinking it could be possible fluid is going somewhere it shouldn't in there!?


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eddiecarrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire Author

I'm thinking the brake booster is causing the hiss sound because it's under a vacuum, so every time you brake, you hear the vacuum leak hiss. How is the engine idling when this happens, do your RPM's drop? Let me know, thanks.


barpalarp219 8 months ago

I rear-ended my friend the other day cause when I went to push the brakes and stop they didn't work. I let off and tried again, as quick as I could, and when I was pushing down trying to stop again I only then felt it trying to catch when I had it down as hard as I could. Is this cause of bad brakes o r rotors or air in the system like my dad thinks? I think my dad might be right cause I have been told before that my breaks felt spongy but he isn't here to look for me, I have to take it to a mechanic.


Jim 8 months ago

Car runs and idles fine. The hiss is coming from within the abs pump. Going to try to open it up and see if I can tell if anything is wrong because that part new is $2000. I only paid $3000 for the car. Lol


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 8 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi barpalarp219,

It sounds to me like the master cylinder is leaking or you have lost all the brake fluid in the system. Have it checked out by a mechanic, but don't drive it. Let me know what they say, thanks.

Hi Jim,

If the hiss sound is coming from the abs pump, most likely that is your problem lol. I doubt you want to sink that kind of money into the car at this point, lol.


Jim 8 months ago

I sure don't. Gonna try a used one. Will update


Tonya Jo 7 months ago

Hi I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee I recently purchased had sat on side of a house 4 years amongst some repairs the brake line blew on it driving home replaced from master cylinder back new pads and calipers have bled and bled brake system still don't have great stopping and not a firm brake pedal hear a rubbing and shake in steering wheel pulling to right again... Up on jack stands pulled tires off re bleeding now the passenger rear is seizing up when try to spin it freely??? Help


Becca 7 months ago

Having brake issues after changing master cylinder to fix a leak draining in floorboard. Now when I start the truck the brake sucks it self to floor and locks front driver wheel .have bleed all four wheels reapeatly. Any other things i can do??.


Derek 6 months ago

Hit I've just had a black box fitted to my fiesta and now my brakes feel strange as in there is a delay we I press the brake.


Angela 6 months ago

I was on the freeway getting off the ext I went to push the break peddle and the jeep still would not stop and it sound like if I was pushing on the gas peddle but I wasn't idk what was going on I keep pushing the break peddle n nothing so I tried E break and the jeep still would not stop so I pulled on the side to avoid hitting the car's n front of me but then there was a tree n the only way the jeep would stop I had to put it n park and it stopped


Anoop 6 months ago

Hi ., hve hyundai tucson 2014...car break pedal getting loose,i changed 4 wheeels break shoves..aftr two day again my break pedal getting losse..no break oil leakage......matr cylinder problm? Boostr problm?abs line problm? ....anybody can give me valluable suggetn


Julian 6 months ago

Well, I'm pretty sure I read everything posted for the past few years. Thank you for your dedication. I have a 1989 Ford F-250 xlt lariat diesel. This truck sat for a few years... So, as I drive down the road the brake pedal pulls itself to the floor, I have to pull it up with my hand to continue. If I step on the brake it stays down until I pull it up. (Yes there was a post kinda like this a few years back, joked about it being an anti theft perk) it pulls down slow but very strong I can't even hold brake pedal up with my foot. I replaced check valve on booster. There is fluid in my M/C. No leaks. If I drive without pulling up the brake pedal eventually my rear passenger tire will lock up. Any advice would be great, I do all my own stunts, so don't wanna start throwing parts at it. Brakes were done 3 years ago and then it sat in the driveway. Thanks for all your help!


Cris 6 months ago

Hello, I have a 1996 F150 and the (abs) light has been coming on for about 2 weeks, in the past week the breaks are extremely sensitive when I first start to drive. I live in the city and this is not good. I slightly touch the breaks and it feels like I slammed the breaks on while going 60 mph. What does this mean and how do I fix it? Thanks for you time.


Ram Bl 6 months ago

Hi I have a 2005 Mit. Lancer with 100k on it. Whenever I'm in stop and go traffic for 30 minutes or so, my brakes start to fail on me. The car doesn't stop or need to apply heavy pressure to stop the car. The car makes revving sound too. This happens only in heavy traffic and never in normal traffic. I don't know how to explain this to the mechanics. A couple of them checked and not sure what is happening. I doubt the front rotor needs to be replaced but not sure it is the problem. Any help/suggestion will be greatly appreciated.


Remko 5 months ago

1994 Ford Explorer had soft brake pedal and hardly brakes. Replaced the master cylinder (was not leaking) and the booster (was leaking). Bench bled the master and all brakes. Road tested, was ok but not great. Took it on a gravel road and activated the ABS by braking hard and locking up the brakes. Brakes worked great for a week untill I had to slam on the brakes. Stopped but after this the brake pedal is rock hard and really hard to depress, basically no brakes and engine running rough. Master cylinder is fine so I think something blew inside the booster although I can not hear a leak. No change when I pull the vacuum hose reinforces my opinion. Your thoughts please.


will 5 months ago

i have a hyundai accent and the right rare wheel doesnt roll when i try to move the car. pls what should i do?


Luke Yancey 5 months ago

Thank you for mentioning that you may have a problem with your car's brakes if the car shakes when braking. I commonly get this problem on the highway, but sometimes it just happens when driving fast as well. What would you say is the problem if the wheel is shaking without braking?


albusaidys 4 months ago

Hello Eddie,

I have a 2007 Honda Element 2WD EX. This morning I left out with not decorative lights. But when I started my engine the second time (about 30 minutes later), 3 lights came up all at once!

ABS, EBD & Brakes!

The car drives fine and does not seem to have any of the above symptoms you described. I tested to see if the brakes work well, I see no difference in how the car brakes from the time the lights were not on, to when the lights came back on.

I stopped middle of this writing to go and check on fluids. All fluids are on right levels and nothing under the vehicle (leaks).

Do you know what could be the problem?

Is there maybe a fuse that may have burnt out?

Thank you so much for this article.

Kind regards

Sam Al-Busaidy


Khan 4 months ago

I have Honda civic 2006. When I apply immediate break then the break paddle pulses up and down. Also break is slow.

I have one more problem in my that coolant level goes down ⬇. There is no leakage externally.

Please suggest me.


candace ladner 4 months ago

Why are my brakes feeling like they are good but when car is on they go all the way to floor


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Sam,

It's possible you have a bad or damaged wheel speed sensor, I recommend having the code checked for the warning lights if you haven't all ready, then decide what to do from there. Let me know if this helps, thanks.

Hi Khan,

The brake pedal pulses because your rotors are warped, the coolant has to be going somewhere. I recommend checking the rear of the engine block near the center of the block. The civics have a recall on the blocks leaking so have a mechanic inspect it on the lift. Let me know what you find, thanks.

Hi Candace,

You most likely have air in the system because of an external leak or internal leak. I recommend checking the brake fluid level first, if it's low, you'll need to find the leak. Keep me posted on what you find.


Cici 3 months ago

Hi, my friend has a 2006 BMW i don't remember the name of the model but it is a 4 door SUV with 4 wheel drive (about the same size as a ford escape). Brake light, ABS light, 4 wheel drive light, AND check engine light are on. Whenever she stops the car at a light or something the car seems to kick. It feels like the rear wheels try to move and are then stopped by the front wheels. She has brought the car to a mechanic recently. They replaced the brake pads but the problem remains. Is it something with the braking system or could it be the transmission?


pjchill 3 months ago

Hi- I have a 2004 Honda Element. I took it in to a chain brake service company for a brake repair 6 months ago because I was hearing an alarming, though intermittent grinding/clunking noise in my rear backs. They replaced rotors pads and calibers on the rear brakes. Everything seemed OK for about two to three weeks- then the same grinding/clunking noise came back. I returned to the service place and they couldn't find a problem- other than a build up of rust. The tech scraped away the rust- reassembled the brakes and all was fine for another 2-3 weeks. Then the same noise returned. I took it back in- this time they 'said' they replaced the 'new' rotors, pads and calipers- and this time, the noise didn't stop. They needed up grinding down something they called a vacuum brake on both sides of the rear brakes ?? and that seemed to solve the noise problem for a short time. After 2 weeks the grinding has returned. The grinding noise doesn't happen until the brakes have heated up- maybe 15 minutes of in-town driving. Also- I just noticed that the noise goes away when I've driven through standing water (it rained hard today).

Any ideas- could the ABS system be defective?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Cici,

The first plan of attack on this problem is to have the codes checked, they could be all related. It sounds to me like you may have an ABS problem and an emissions problem, but you wont know until you have the codes pulled. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.

Hi pjchill,

The most likely cause of the noise is the calipers lack of lubrication. All contact points of the pads to the caliper and the slide pins need to be lubricated with the proper lube, otherwise you'll get this type of noise. The new rotors come with a metal lip from the factory and it needs to be ground down before installation. I'm not sure why, it think it was a manufacturing defect that was never caught on the blueprints. Let me know if this helps, thanks.


Nomious 3 months ago

Thank you for the info, I have a Mazda B1600. We have just changed rear brake kits and wehn applying breaks there is a sound of air from the master cylinder you can actually hear it. I think it will be releasing air into the rear cylinders adn what happens after some stops all the tires will sort of lock like there is pressure and the car wont move. Once you bleed from the master cylinder everything goes to normal and after a few drives like three days. the same thing happens. Any suggestions. Thank you.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Nomious,

Sounds like your master cylinder push rod, (the one that connects to the brake pedal) is out of adjustment. There should be at least 1-2 inches of free play at the top of the pedal, if not, your brakes will lock up after a few minutes of braking. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.


lgleisner 3 months ago

Eddie Great job with your original post and many replies. I have a 2002 Chevy Suburban that I purchased from a friend - the original owner. I have driven this vehicle on many occasions over the last 10 years when it was his vehicle and recently it feel like the brake pedal continues to get softer and softer. I have taken to the mechanic that has done a great job with it for the last 8 years and he continues to say the brake system is 100% fine and the pedal is normal, but I am certain it now is softer. I have 2 other chevy vehicles so know what larger chevy pedals feel like. I do have to replace the back disc rotors and pad in the near future - the mechanic said, but this should not make the pedal spongy. Reading some of your replies is there a easy way to test the master cylinder myself also I could remove the front tires and ensure the front slide pins are clean and lubed. I also find it ironic that the front brake pads are only 10% worn and the rear are now almost gone (last 10% of life) they were not changed at the exact same time, but close enough to think they would wear relatively similar.

Thanks for any reply - Lloyd


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Lloyd,

You're going to have to check all brake caliper pins and pistons for free movement. It's possible your front calipers are frozen and your rear brakes are doing all the braking and prematurely wearing out, but it's also possible your rear pads are frozen into the calipers and are wearing prematurely or/and the rear caliper pins are frozen causing the piston to travel too far causing a soft pedal. If the master cylinder is leaking internally and you would like to test it, try this. Apply light pressure to the brake pedal with the engine running ans in park, if the pedal sinks to the floor, it's possible the fluid is leaking past the cup diaphragm inside the master, also check the brake master cylinder fluid level. Let me know if you have more questions, thanks.


Letawna 3 months ago

Hi, my question is about a 2002 Toyota Tundra Auto-2wd. The front driver side hub was worn thin so we replaced it. Whenever we were putting the caliper back on, we removed the brake reservoir cap to release the pressure and we forgot to put it back on. (By the way, this is my cousins truck, she hasn't had it very long. So when i say "we" its means 2 women that aren't mechanics but know more about fixing on our vehicles than most men we know.) Anyways, the cap got lost when she drove home that evening. She didn't realize it wasn't on there until the next day. She was driving and heard a noise as if the linkage had slipped out. Then when she went to turn around she realized the reverse felt almost like it was in neutral. So I went pulled it with my truck and that when we noticed that the rear driver side wheel was locked up while i pulled it backward but then she was able to drive forward because it would turn. She said it felt like there wasn't much power. So when she parked, again, the rear wheel is locked up so she will have to be drug backward. I hope you can tell us what this could be. Thank you


sandy 3 months ago

i have 2001 honda accord. i have replaced new rotor and brake pad, suspension work too.

and rear new brake shoes..

when i drive the car more than 80 miles per hour , if i apply brake.. back side people feel my car is jumping up and down. if the car is between 0 to 60 miles i dont see the problem. i spent alot on it. the problem is not solved


Nessa 3 months ago

I have a 2003 Hyundai elantra and the other day I was reversing from a parking space and had my foot down lightly on the brake pedal then suddenly it just went all the way to the floor. The brakes were making scratching noises already prior to this as of they were wearing out so I had My brother replace the front brake pads and the sound stopped but the brake pedal still goes down to the floor. What can this be?


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Letawna,

Sorry so late with my reply. If you haven't fix it yet, it sounds like your rear brake shoe lining has dislodged and is locking up your brakes at that wheel (I'm assuming you have drum rear brakes). The other thing to check is the e-brake pivot arm on the rear shoes. Toyota is known for having these arms rust up and freeze in the braking position. Let me know what you find.

Hi Sandy,

Did you replace the rear drums or have them resurfaced? It sounds to me like your drums are out of round (warped). Let me know, thanks.

Hi Nessa,

First I would check your brake fluid, if it topped off most likely your master cylinder is leaking internally causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor under light pressure, you can usually pump up the brake pedal a few time to bring it back but you'll need to replace the master cylinder for a safe repair. I don't recommend driving it with this condition because your brakes could fail completely without warning.


Letawna 3 months ago

Hi Eddie,

About the 2002 2wd Tundra, we removed the rear brake shoes. The truck has drum brakes. We noticed that BOTH rear wheels are locked up. When pulling the truck back with another truck, it looks as if the rear wheels are attempting to turn forward. . So, while in reverse or nuetral, both rear wheels are completely locked up. The truck will go in drive but in reverse it sounds like it's being revved up in nuetral not moving at all. So now that the rear brakes have been removed what else could be causing it to lock up? could it have anything to do with the rear end? Thank you for your help


Josh 2 months ago

I have 2005 Mercury Montery Van. I heard my back brakes grinding other day. I went to replace back brakes. Driver side rear was metal to metal, but passenger side rear had almost full pads. I had to replace rear driver side caliper too. Now brakes won't pump up. Brakes have been bled. I had a full pedal before changing caliper and brake on rear diver side. I hear a lot of air when pumping brakes but no leaks. Not sure if brake booster or master cylinder.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Letawna ,

Sorry I didn't see your comment. One way to check if it's the differential is to disconnect the drive shaft, this will eliminate the transmission.

Hi Josh,

You may need to bleed the entire system depending on how low the reservoir got. t may be a good idea to gravity bleed the system first to fill all the lines, then pump fluid through each line to remove the rest of the air. The air your hearing is the booster doing it's job I think because you wouldn't be able to hear air in the lines. Let me know how you make out, thanks.


Kay 2 months ago

Hello Eddie, I have a seriouse problem that I am worried about. My 06 Malibu had begun jarring when I hit the brakes after driving hig speeds the whole car would shake, I felt it most near the peddal. So I had my front brakes worked on and ad besides braking them in the remaining shaking eventually cleared up. NOW a couple months later when it rains my brakes try to completely lock up! Not at first when I start driving but if I hit the interstate the whole car will start shaking like it did before, but not even when I'm braking, just while driving. and then the pedal gets really stiff and the car begins to brake on its own. It stays in constant braking mode with my foot completely removed from the pedal. Once I let it sit and dry off everthing is fine. Any ideas? Thank you this has me very worried.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 2 months ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Kay,

It sounds to me like you have a sticking caliper piston on one of your calipers. I recommend having someone take a look at it, they will need to road test it first to heat up the brakes, I believe this is when you problem occurs, not when it's raining, but I could be wrong :). Let me know what you find, thanks.


gndr 2 months ago

Hi Eddie, I have a 98 Ford Windstar and the ABS light is on. The front driver side caliper will seize up after freeway driving in stop and go traffic or after a while in street traffic. There is a burning smell which is probably from the pads. After a couple of hours of cooling down it brakes fine if I do not drive too long. I had the caliper and pads replaced. The bracket was not replaced. After resuming my usual driving it seizes again after the brakes get heated. Works again after cooling. The auto shop that replaced the caliper says it could be the ABS Control Module. There are no codes for the ABS light. He has checked the hoses for that wheel and there is no problem. This the only brake that seizes. He also says there is no way to check if the module is functioning properly. He does not want to replace the module unless I want him to. Any help would be appreciated.


Jon from Milwaukee 8 weeks ago

Eddie, great article with lots of useful info. However, here is one thing you might want to add in the "car pulls to one side" section. A friend of mine had a van that started pulling to the left when braking, and it turned out to be a problem with the rubber section of the brake line by the right front wheel. It had collapsed on the inside (it looked fine on the outside), and wasn't letting the brake fluid flow freely. He replaced the pads, calipers and rotors with no luck, and then when he replaced the rubber line it braked fine afterwards. I hope this info helps someone out.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 7 weeks ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Gndr,

If the bracket was not replaced, you'll need to check the pins and corrosion under the pad shims. If everything looks ok, it's possible you have a blockage in the line in one direction, so you'll need to remove the ends and blow compressed air through the line in both directions or just replace the rubber end of the line like Jon stated above, it could be collapsed internally but look fine from the outside. That's where I recommend you start. Let me know how you make out, thanks.

Hi Jon,

That is really good information, I try to touch on all possible causes when writing, but tend to leave some important info out, so thanks, I really appreciate your feedback and I will add it to the article or just write a new article on the subject. Thanks again Jon.


Trey Savage 5 weeks ago

My rear passenger side brake locked up. When I jacked it up and pull the tire off I removed the caliper to find out the inner pad was missing and the outer pad was pretty worn out. The caliper piston that pushes the brakes on to the rotor has been grinding against my rotor causing minor damage to the piston and rotor but when I rub my fingers up and down the rotor it doesn't feel too bad I drive a 1997 Ford Thunderbird with a V8 4.6 what exactly should I do from this point I have already purchased new brake pads and haven't touched anything else since


Trey Savage 5 weeks ago

I drive a 1997 Ford Thunderbird with a 4.6 V8 My passenger-side rear brake locked up I pulled off a tire to find out the pad on the inside was missing and the pad on the outside was pretty worn down and that the brake caliper piston have been rubbing against the rotor causing minor damage to the piston and rotor when I run my fingers up and down the road it doesn't feel too bad but it isn't necessarily the smoothest I have already purchased new pads but other than that I have done nothing else can you please give me your input on what I should do?


Jim 5 weeks ago

I got a old Chevy with very hard brakes on it. I found out the Vacume Advance hose was off. I put on, and now we have to pump up brakes to get it to get half way brake pedal. If I bleed out wheel cylinders out, will that help /


Abdu 5 weeks ago

Hi Eddie

Chevrolet Epica 2011

Today a car came across me due to their wrong drive, I stopped the car sudden. Then I moved from that place, but when I pressed the brake in the moving, it stops at the normal pedal level and the same instant the pedal goas down (around 60-70% more than the normal level, but doesn't touch to the floor). Then I stopped my car and restarted, everything was normal. I had this same experience in last month (this also was from the sudden brake). Please advise me.


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 4 weeks ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Trey,

Sorry I didn't see your post sooner. I highly recommend replacing the caliper, rotors, and pads at this point. What you can't see is the heat that was generated at the caliper piston. This probably damaged the o-ring seal on the piston, if it's not leaking yet, it may leak in the near future. Let me knwo if you have more questions, thanks.

Hi Jim,

It may help, but the question is " why would there be air in the system?" You can start by bleeding the system at all wheels, if that doesn't work, you may need to replace the master cylinder.

Hi Abdu,

I recommend having all the brake calipers serviced,cleaned and lubed. It sounds to me like your brake pads are binding in the calipers and not moving freely causing the piston to travel further than normal. Let me know if servicing the calipers help, thanks.


Jesse 4 weeks ago

I have a '99 Lexus ES300 ans changed the rear break pads and after that I felt that there was air in the line so I bled then and now I have no pressure in the vehicle. I only have the pressure when the car is off and when it's turned on that's when all the pressure goes away what could it be the master cylinder or something I did wrong in the process?


Nathan d 4 weeks ago

Hi I have a Mazda 6 2.2 ts2 and when I press my breaks my car feels like the abs is kicking in coz the breaks feel like there on then off then on then off and the pedal pulsates and the steering wheel shakes and even when driving the car feels a little rough and not as smooth as it usto be.

I have had new pads and discs on front

New pads on back

New engine mount

Tracking done

All tyres ballances

Bought all new alloys with new tyres and tracking again

And still can't find the problem. The car has been garage a few times and they can't find the problem. They have checked all springs, struts, ball joints, Barens, etc it passed a mot no problems

Do you have any ideas please

Thanks

Nathan dell


Luis 4 weeks ago

Hey there, i have 2005 jeep grand cherokee when i applied the brake shake i replaced the front breaks and rotor.. a d still shaked when u applied the brake..it shake when im going fast but when im in slow speed i applied the brake dont really do just when im on some speed thank you. PleAse help.


paul mylett 4 weeks ago

hi i have a hyundai accent 3 door the brakes on my car will come on slowly to the point that the car will stop if you take your foot off the escalator i have changed the calapurs and the brakes still keep coming on and some times it might not happen for a day or two any idea what the problem could be


eddiecarrara profile image

eddiecarrara 3 weeks ago from New Hampshire Author

Hi Jesse,

I think you may have let air into the line when you blead the brakes. The brake pedal may have felt soft because of a sticking caliper slide pin or something else. Did you have a mechanic change the brakes or did you change them out?

Hi Nathan,

If the ABS pump was kicking in you would hear it pumping and your pedal would kick back, not just pulsate. The person who installed the rotors may have neglected to clean rust off the hubs causing the rotors to sit on an uneven surface, causing a pulsation. After market wheels are very difficult to balance, so that may be a different problem. Let me know if this helps.

Hi Luis,

Did you replace all 4 rotors? Did you torque the wheels with a torque stick or torque wrench? Let me know, thanks.

Hi Paul,

The first thing to check is the brake caliper slide pins. Do any of your wheels get super hot when this happens? Or does more than one get very hot? Let me know.


paul mylett 3 weeks ago

yes more then one get very hot the front left and i have changed the calipers and still happeing the left front will get as you say super hot that smoke comes out of it and the right front get hot also but not as much thanks


paul mylett 3 weeks ago

yes more then one get very hot the front left and i have changed the calipers and still happeing the left front will get as you say super hot that smoke comes out of it and the right front get hot also but not as much thanks can you help me


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