3 Most Common Brake Noises: Causes and How to Fix Them
Brake Noises: Annoying or Dangerous?
“My brakes squeak” is one of the most common complaints about brakes. Brake noises can be annoying, but can also alert us of an upcoming danger. It's best to play it safe and have brake noises checked by a trusted mechanic.
I will cover three of the most common brake noises I encounter on a daily basis and try to shed some light on the repair.
Some of the repair techniques I share with you here are unorthodox and you will never find them in a service manual or Technical Service Bulletin. If you decide to try them please be cautious and safe.
Let’s check out the three most common problems that cause noisy brakes.
Common Brake Noises and Their Causes
Noise
| Possible Cause
|
|---|---|
Grinding
| Stop driving! Usually caused by the brake pad being worn down to nothing.
|
Thumping from rear
| Hard to diagnose, but usually the rear drums.
|
Squeaking
| Either cheap brake pads, or the brake wear indicator is hitting the rotor.
|
Thumping or squealing
| If car is parked outdoors, probably caused by rusted rotors.
|
Scraping
| You may have picked up a rock.
|
1. Grinding Noise When You Apply Your Brakes: A Wake-Up Call
Hearing a grinding noise when you apply your brakes is really like hitting a rumble strip on the edge of the highway; if you hear this, you need to wake up and stop driving. A grinding noise on braking is usually caused by a lack of brake pad material; the pads and rotors are now metal to metal, with no braking material left.
Brake pads are like bars of soap. Eventually they get used up, and you have to replace them and spend a little money.
If you don’t, and your brakes get to the point of grinding, just imagine dollar signs rising into the air every time you step on the brake pedal, even just a little. The grinding noise is just a little voice whispering in your ear saying, ”You’re killing me!” Mechanics have an acronym for this, it’s called CPR (calipers, pads, and rotors). And when you get the bill for your brake job, you will need CPR (cardio-pulmonary rescuscitation).
If your brakes are grinding, stop driving and call a tow truck. It’s worth it in the long run.
What Happens When You Let That Grinding Noise Go on Too Long
You are supposed to replace the pads so they don’t grind your rotors down to a tissue. If you replace your pads on time you can often keep your rotors.
Don't Go Cheap on Your Rotors and Pads! They Can Save Your Life!
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2. Thumping Noise From the Rear When Braking
This brake issue is one that will annoy the hell out of the driver, and suck the life out of the technician. It took me months to figure out what caused this thumping noise in the rear of a vehicle when braking. After tearing apart the rear of the vehicle, lubing every bushing, and checking the clearances of every part imaginable, I came to the conclusion that it’s the rear drums that cause the noise.
Many cars have drum brakes in back, where a shoe stops the car by pressing on the inside of a metal drum. Brake drums, like rotors, get resurfaced once in a while. The cutting bit on the brake lathe removes the old braking surface and leaves a nice new mating surface. During this procedure, the cutting bit will create a groove in the brake drum so slight that the naked eye can’t see it; it’s like a groove on a vinyl record that the needle of the record player follows.
When the brake shoes ride on the new surface, they will follow the groove like the needle of your record player follows a track. If the groove is interrupted, the shoes snap back, hitting the backing plate. This phenomenon happens very quickly, causing a thumping noise that will drive you crazy and wondering if your car is falling apart or even safe to drive.
There are several ways to fix this noise. One is to replace the rear drums. A second way, less drastic, is to remove the drums, install them on a lathe, and sand the crap out of the mating surface with coarse sandpaper. The third way I found by trial and error and pure frustration is a quick fix using the emergency brake.
You will not find this procedure in any service manual or car repair manual, not even on car repair talk radio. It can be dangerous if not performed correctly so please be careful. Nevertheless, I have done it on over 100 cars, including family members’ cars, and I would not recommend it if I thought it damaged the vehicle.
How this works is that you get your rear brakes to do 100% of the braking for a few seconds at a time, instead of their usual 30%, and this will cause the brake shoes to polish the grooves out of the drum. For safety reasons, only try this on cars that have an emergency brake handle in the center console; emergency brakes that come up out of the floor can’t be set and released quickly enough.
Drive your car in a remote area with little or no traffic at a speed of about 40 miles an hour. Lightly pull up on the emergency brake handle while holding the release button; this is so the emergency brake handle won’t lock in the braking position, and you can release it quickly. Only hold the emergency brake on for about three seconds because you don’t want to overheat the drums. Do this three to five times, while keeping a steady speed; the noise should disappear, or at least be 90% gone. Then drive the car at normal speeds and use the brakes the way you normally would.
If the noise has not changed, you may have a different thumping noise than what I have described here in this article. Give up on this remedy and try something else.
My sister came to me with this noise after she had her brakes checked at her local garage. They had adjusted her rear brakes so the emergency brake handle had less free play in it, and this is when her troubles began. I took her car out on a test drive for about 10 minutes, performed the procedure described here, and poof, the noise was gone. She was happy because the garage that had caused the noise had no idea how to fix it.
3. "My Brakes Squeak"
A brake squeak can be very annoying, and furthermore might mean something. It may be a sign of danger of some kind, or it may just be a sign of cheap brake pads.
The most common brake squeak is caused by inferior pads. A cheap brake job sounds good when you’re paying for it, but it may come with years of painfully annoying brake squeaks. Cheap brake pads have large metal flakes in the brake material, and when you press the brakes lightly and a flake drags along the rotor, it will squeak. The squeak may go away when that particular flake wears away, but usually there is another metal flake right behind it. The best way to avoid this type of noise is to choose quality brake pads.
If your brakes are squeaking or squealing while driving down the road, but the noise goes away when you press on the brakes, I have a hunch that your brake wear indicator is hitting the rotor and causing the noise. The wear indicator is a small metal tab fastened to the brake pad. When the brake pads are worn down and need replacing, this metal tab starts to drag along the rotor, warning the driver of the potential problem. Don’t ignore the noise too long; the brake pads are thin and need servicing very soon, for safety and to protect the other parts of the braking system.
Bonus Noise: Thumping or Squealing Caused by Rotors Rusting Overnight
Especially in cars parked outdoors, rust can build up overnight on the rotor around the impression of the pad, causing a thumping or squealing when you drive the car away in the morning.
Noises Caused by Rust on Rotors
A Bonus Noise From the Brake Area
I have one other noise I run into a lot that has nothing to do with the brakes themselves—technically, it has to do with rotors—but I thought it was worth mentioning here because it comes from that area, and a lot of customers assume it's their brakes causing the noise. If your vehicle makes a scraping noise, while driving or when turning a corner, that sounds like something being dragged across a tin plate, it's possible you have picked up a rock from a dirt road or from a freshly repaired pothole: the kind of place where you hear a shower of pebbles hitting the bottom of your car as you drive through. There’s a good possibility that a rock has gotten lodged between the rotor and the backing plate, making an awful noise that is causing your ears to bleed. Just have the rock removed and be on your way.
Or sometimes the backing plate behind the rotor gets bent while the car is being worked on, and it scrapes against the rotor.
A Rock Stuck Next to the Rotor
There's an easier way to remove a rock stuck behind the rotor: bend the backing plate a little, as shown in the video below!
Scraping Noise From Behind Rotor
I sincerely hope that all the information here will help diagnose that noise that seems to be coming from your brakes. I know that some of my methods are a bit out of the box, but it's what we do sometimes to repair vehicles. There is always a better way, but if you don't try new ideas, you'll never discover it. A wise man once said, "If you do the same things over and over, expecting different results, you must be crazy."
For a couple of other common car noises, see the video below.
Three Common Car Noises
The video above describes three noises: squeaking from brake pad wear indicators; a clicking in the front end combined with a shaking steering wheel; and a metallic, knocking noise that happens in the front end while turning.
Car Brake Noises
What Noises Do Brakes Make: FAQ’s
How Do I Get My Brakes to Stop Squeaking?
The most common way to stop brakes from squeaking is to remove all the brake pads, disassemble the calipers, and lubricate all moving caliper parts with high temperature grease and all caliper-to-brake pad contact points with brake pad lube.
There are other methods out there, like sanding the brake pad surface or shaving the leading edge of the brake pads, but the repair above has the best results by far.
Why Are My Brand New Brakes Squealing?
The most likely cause for new brake pads squeaking is lack of lubrication on the caliper-to-pad contact points, most likely from an inexperienced mechanic.
Some aftermarket brake pads have a high content of "bimetal" material which can cause new brakes to squeak as well.
What Can Cause a Grinding Noise in the Braking System?
A grinding noise can be heard in a brake system when the pad's life is exhausted, that is, when it's worn out.
Another cause of grinding in a brake system is moisture on the rotor after sitting over night, but this will usually disappear after applying the brake a few times.
Another common grinding noise from brakes happens when small pebbles get caught between the rotor and rotor backing plate, or the backing plate is touching the rotor after a brake service was just done or the wheels were just removed from the vehicle.
How Much Does It Cost to Get a Brake Job?
Brake jobs can range between $150 to $650 per axle depending on what is wrong and what needs to be replaced. If your vehicle need to have the rotor and pads replaced, this is when the brake job becomes more pricey.
If you hear that the rotors need to be replaced, ask the mechanic if they can resurface them to save a few bucks. Resurfacing them, if he can do it, could actually save you about $100 - $150.
How Much Does it Cost to Fix Squeaky Brakes?
The cost to fix squeaky brakes can vary depending on the labor rate and on what the mechanic needs to do to stop the squeak. It will cost about one hour of labor per axle to disassemble the brake calipers and lube all moving parts and pads.
Why Do My Brakes Squeak First Thing in the Morning?
The main reason brakes squeak first thing in the morning, or after the car has been sitting in a humid area, is moisture on the brake rotors. Usually this type of brake squeak will disappear after applying the brakes a few times.
Can Your Brakes Squeal When Not Applied?
Your brakes can squeal when they are not applied. Usually this is because the brake pad wear indicator is touching the rotor. If the wear indicator is touching the rotor, sometimes the noise disappears when you apply the brakes, and returns when your foot comes off the pedal.
If you hear this type of noise when you're not applying the brakes, have a mechanic do a brake inspection just to be on the safe side. The wear indicator may be warning you that your brake pads are getting low and need to be replaced soon.
Do You Have to Break in New Brake Pads?
You should not have to break in new brake pads; you should be able to drive normally as soon as the brake pads are installed.
What is the Grinding Noise When I Drive?
If you're hearing a grinding noise when you drive, and you're not applying the brakes, it could be that the brake pads are worn metal to metal. They should be inspected ASAP! Your brakes may be worn away to nothing.
How Do You Check Your Rotors?
Rotors are inspected visually and with measuring tools like a micrometer or a Verner caliper. The visual inspection checks for flaking rust on the braking surface, score marks on the braking surface, heat cracks, and hot spots.
Measuring the rotor thickness is important when doing the brake inspection. If the rotor is too thin, the rotor could crack or fall apart when braking under severe conditions. Another reason to measure rotor thickness is to verify there is enough material to resurface the rotors.
How Long Do Brakes on a Car Last?
It all depends on driving habits and conditions. If you drive on the highway all the time, your brakes could last up to 100,000 miles. But if you use your vehicle to make deliveries in the city, you could find yourself replacing brakes every 15,000 miles.
How Long Does it Take to Get a Brake Job?
A typical brake job takes about one to two hours. If they are replacing rotors and pads, it will take about an hour per axle. If they are machining or resurfacing the rotors, it will take a bit longer.
How Often Do You Need to Change Brake Pads?
It all depends on driving habits and conditions. If you drive on the highway all the time, your brakes could last up to 100,000 miles; but if you use your vehicle to make deliveries in the city, you could find yourself replacing brakes every 15,000 miles
Another thing to consider is the type of brake pad you're installing. Some aftermarket pads are very cheap and will not last long. Cheap pads also tend to be very squeaky.
What Causes Brake Noise
More on Brakes by Eddie Carrara
- How to Replace Honda Brake Pads: Tips and Precautions
Avoid making costly mistakes when you're replacing brake pads on your Honda. Important steps that backyard mechanics might skip. - Four Common Brake Squeaks
If your brakes squeak, and you need help trying to figure out what's causing it, maybe I can help! Here are four common brake squeaks to compare to. Questions are welcome! - Brake Problems? Five Common Brake Problems In Cars
Education for a driver who knows very little about a car's braking system, and possibly help for a technician who is having trouble diagnosing a brake issue.
Please Do Us a Favor
I need to ask you for a favor. If you found this information useful, please share it. If you still have questions, help us out by describing them below. All questions are welcome.
Questions & Answers
- Helpful 44
I've let my car brakes go past the threshold of grinding, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor. I am preparing to buy some brake pads and rotors. The car makes a really loud metal on metal sound. Is this something to worry about?
You shouldn't be driving the car at this point; you are endangering other peoples lives, not just your own. The caliper pistons are probably hitting the rotor now, and the car is a 2-ton weapon.
I have a Honda City. The car is in new condition, and driven for only 7000 km. In the last few weeks, whenever I start the car, (after an hour or two), I'm getting a noise from my front brake whenever I punch brake. I only hear the sound for 1-2 km. After driving for a few minutes, it works normally. Could you please tell me what exactly the problem is?
If the noise is only when braking lightly in the morning, it's possible that you have moisture on the brake pads, and it wears off after applying the brakes a couple of times. I recommend keeping an ear on it, and make sure the noise doesn't get worse. If it does get worse, have someone check out the brakes just to be safe.
I had my tires rotated and now my one rotor is warped. Is it possible they tightened the lugnuts too tight?
If the lug nuts were not torqued evenly or if they are over tightened, it is possible to warp the rotor, but how do you prove it? It would be tough to prove that the mechanic wrapped the rotor.
Helpful 3At random times, I feel something with the gas pedal, almost like something is trying to catch a gear and spinning. I drive 30kms every day, and it only happens maybe once a week. This morning, I felt it when I applied the brakes; the same vibration. Any thoughts on what it may be?
I would check the temperature of each wheel when it happens; you may have a sticking caliper. Vibrations can be caused by warped rotors, and usually cause braking, but I'm not sure if this is your problem because of your description.
Helpful 1
Comments
AUTHORHi Mauricio,
A wheel bearing would make noise above 20 mph hot and cold and it will usually make a humming noise not grinding, but everyones interpretation is different. It's possible you have loose or broke spring inside the drum or maybe a hold down spring is broken.
- AUTHOR
Hi Brent,
Sorry for the late reply, She need to have them rechecked if the vehicle wasn't doing it before the check. Also have the lug nuts checked, make sure they are not loose. Usually a brake pulsation is caused by warped rotors and a thumping noise is usually pad impressions on the rotors from sitting in a high moisture area over night or for a few days and rust builds up around the brake pads. I highly recommend having them check by the same mechanic so they can check their workmanship. Let me know what you find, thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Rosanna,
I recommend you bring it back to the garage that did the MOT and ask the to check the noise, the may have bent the rotor backing plate and now it is hitting the rotor under certain conditions. If the backing plate looks ok, have them check the inner pads, some mechanic neglect to check all 8 brake pads during the inspection, I'm not sure why, but it happens. Keep me posted on what you find, thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Lawrence,
You may have a small rock or pebble stuck between the caliper and backing plate causing the noise, so you may have to take the wheel off or have it checked. Another problem could be that your inner brake pad could be getting low and you're hearing the brake pad wear indicator. Let me know what you find, thanks.
Hi Eddie,
I believe that my backing plate is rubbing agents my rotor, I pushed it away with a screwdriver and it sound fine until I hit my brakes again. when I pulled over again it was back to touching the rotor, what does this mean and how could I fix this back plate issue?
Hi Eddie.
I have had a terrible squealing/screaming noise when I drive straight which goes when I apply the brakes or turn the wheels left/right - so reading the thread I assume this is the break wear indicator
HOWEVER - I had my MOT two days ago and they say I have about 40% left on my break pads? Should I get them changed now or could it be something else. its highly embarrassing as its constant high pitched even at slow speeds.
Hi Eddie. My daughter had her brakes inspected yesterday before getting on the road to college. The brake guys said she still had plenty of pad. And all they recommended was a $20 clean and “adjustment”. Now today at highway speeds a thumping sound and shaky steering wheel. I have a video if you think you could help.
I have drum brakes and my 1968 is making a grinding noise from the left-rear driver-side tire, after driving it for about 20 minutes. I am told it might not be the wheel bearings because the noise starts after 20 minutes of driving it. I was told if it was the wheel bearings, the noise would be ever present. What could it be?
- AUTHOR
Hi Raymond,
Do you have disc or drum brakes? If you have drum, are the shoes installed properly? The shoes should be different sizes (front / rear shoe)
I just replaced the rear break pads but drivers side drum keeps sticking what would be the problem thanks in advance
My question is when i step on the break there’s a noise like hek hek hek but after running again the noise gone, i already change the rotors & the break & pads. Pls.help me thank you.
Thank you for the info. Very helpful.
Great post! Very informative and the videos were great supplemental pieces to the post
- AUTHOR
Thanks for the feedback Ando :)
Great post! Very informative and the videos were great supplemental pieces to the post.
- AUTHOR
Hi Clarisa,
I recommend getting a second opinion, hubs don't usually make noise when braking.
Hi I recently when to get my brakes inspected because it had makeing a really bad noise when stopping but they said that their fine and it’s the hub ?
- AUTHOR
Hi Justin,
Can you make a video of the noise and post it to YouTube then send me the link?
- AUTHOR
Hi Brendan,
If you are positive the rotor is not touching the backing plate and there is no debris between the rotor and backing plate then check the anti rattle clips in the caliper mounting brackets, sometimes the are off center in the caliper and can also touch the rotor causing the noise. Let me know what you find, thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Kier,
I recommend having the brakes checked, they may need replacing soon. When brake pads are near the end of their life, they can make some strange noises.
I am having some strange noices when im breaking at speeds under 20mph. It is almost like a loud wooshing, rubbing noise that changes pitches. Do you have any idea what this could be?
Hey Eddie,
Just replaced my stock brakes with brand new pads and rotors. Everything looked good when they're put together, but when I start driving I hear only the front drivers side rotor making a metal on metal sound. I checked for rocks as well as the rotor touching the metal behind it and both things check out. I was really hoping you could give me an idea as to whats going on here.
Thanks!
Have a question for u have an Elantra 2013 it breaks but as I drive it sounds like a seal barking doesn’t go away do u know what that might be
- AUTHOR
Hi Ivan,
If you have 4 wheel disc brakes, it's possible the noise is coming from the rear rotors, or if the rear brakes are drum, the noise is most likely coming from the drums, either way I think it's because the rear brake are getting hot and there are hot spots from the rust from sitting. Did you ask the dealer if they could resurface the rotors or drums at no charge since you just bought the car from them? Let me know, thanks for the feedback Ivan, I really appreciate it :)
Hi Eddie,
great page, thanks for all the effort you put into this!
I just bought a used 2014 Kia cee'd disel. The car is in great condition, from what I can see. It did stand a few months at the dealers, so it got some rust on the discs. But after now driving for 2000 miles they are shiny and look ok, with no groves.
What does happen from time to time though, I hear a rather loud thumping noise when I apply the breaks. But this only seems to happen after the breaks have been applyed a lot in a shorter period of time. So I imagine they get really hot in this time, and then when I break it starts thumping, and then only when my speed is already quite low.
If I just continue driving without breaking for 10 or so minutes, the noise is gone, even if I again apply the breaks hard.
It is a bit hard to describe, but I think something happens when the breaks are hot from more intensive use in a shorter period of time.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
- AUTHOR
Hi Moses,
The most common reason for a thumping noise when braking is from pad impressions. Pad impressions are caused by the car sitting in a high moisture area without moving, the rust will form on the rotor except where the pads sit, this is your pad impression, now when the car moves the pad impression make a thumping noise every time it passes the brake pads. Hope this helps.
Hi I have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica, when applying brakes when driving I hear a thumping or ear popping noise, I have new pads on front and rear?
- AUTHOR
Hi Robin,
A broken boot would not cause this noise, even if they saw the boot ripped open they should have told you so you could repair it properly. I think the mechanic may have lets something loose like the caliper bolts and the caliper was/is rubbing/touching the rotor. I recommend a second opinion, a brake inspection should only cost about $25-$50, but it's worth being safe. Let me know what they find, thanks.
I had a friend put breaks on the front of my 98 Dodge Durango they instantly started squicking and then a few days later grinding I was driving to work the grinding got extremely loud and started making a c loud clanking noise I took it back to him he said when he put breaks on he seen a broken boot he said it might be that I really need a professional opinion I’m a single mother and don’t have a lot of income
My 99 f150 has started making a rubbing noise from the right front.. sounding like something rubbing against the tire.. But I can find anything that could be causing it . My heat shields are worn out , but aren't touching anything ..
- AUTHOR
I'll be waiting for ya Liz :)
Thanks. Wear and tear and aging soon starts to tell on a car, so I'm guessing I'll be back before too long.
- AUTHOR
You know where to find me Eurofile :)
I could have done with an article like this a few years back when we had a series of 'older' cars. Will bear this in mind for the future though.
- AUTHOR
Hi Kevin,
It's possible there is not enough lube on the shoe to backing plate contact areas or maybe a spring is out of place. I recommend removing the drum that is making noise and checking the hardware.
my rear drum brakes on drivers side is making a chirping nosie while driving. When i apply the brakes it goes away. they are new brakes and drums
- AUTHOR
Hi Lydia,
I'm not familiar with big trucks but you must have an Eletric brake on the vehicle. Try removing the negative battery cable for a minute to see if the noise stops.
Ok. So I was out of town and hauling a trailer with a car on it. We had to make a sudden stop and afterward we started hearing a grinding noise from the brakes. We unhitched the trailer and ran the truck and I didn't hear the grinding anymore. Once we hitched the trailer back up and headed home, we heard the grinding again. Against our better judgment, we drove it home. Now when we turn off the truck we hear a noise like a small motor running from underneath somewhere and we can't figure out what it is. We know we need to change out the brakes but we can't get that noise to stop. What could it be?
- AUTHOR
Hi Jason,
No I have never heard of this before, I recommend contacting Hyundai, not the dealer and start a case with them, they should direct you to bring it to a local dealer with the case # so they can follow up with the problem.
Hello. I have a 2017 Elantra that has had loud noises from the drums that started about one month after purchase, new. I have taken it to 3 dealerships a total of eleven times to have them fixed. The last place “replaced” (now questionable) the shoes and drums on both wheels. The noise came back. I took my car to an independent mechanic and he showed me the shoes. There is dust on the bottom half but not on the top. He says they are defective and the shoes aren’t fully pressing the side of the drums. Have you heard of this? It has been a frustrating process for what is likely a simple fix. Thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Mark,
Is this a new noise? Have you had any work done recently? Are you applying the brakes when you hear this noise?
- AUTHOR
Hi Africa,
It sounds like you have run out of brake pad material. I highly recommend having it checked asap. Let me know what they find, thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Alexa,
Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it :) If you had a small rock caught between the rotor and backing plate, it's possible there is more debris back there that they didn't remove. If they just fixed it and the nose is now back a few day later I recommend bring it back so they can check it again. They shouldn't charge you to take a second look because they said they fixed it the first time (but they didn't). The temperatures you are suffering in can cause all sorts of problems, do you know what the code is that is causing the check engine light to come on? Did you have anyone take a look at the intermittent problem with the HVAC system? It a bit cold to not have heat, YIKES!!!
Hi, I have a Honda Civic 2006 and for the past days my car been making this heavy grinding noise every time I step on the brakes, like it’s dragging something. It depends if I step harder on my brakes it makes heavy noise but just a lil bit before getting to the light I won’t hear anything... Omgosh it’s so annoying.. I’m taking it to get it checked
Hi Eddie,
Great page!
My 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo has been making a squealing sound four a bout 7 weeks at even the slightest touch of the brakes, I have now noticed the squealing without even touching the brakes. I took it to the dealer service dept and they said there was a rock stuck between the rotors, they said they removed it, and then two days later it started squealing again. Do you have any idea what this might be?! I'm a 29 year old female and I feel that the service department takes advantage of me and my lack of knowledge about vehicles. It's getting really frustrating on top of other issues (check engine light on 3x in the past 7 weeks), and the heating/defrost system working intermittently (not fun in -40 degrees C weather). Thanks in advance!!
-Alexa
- AUTHOR
Hi Arthur,
Maybe a rock stuck between the backing plate and rotor?
- AUTHOR
Hi Al,
Check the rear brake pad thickness/condition, it sounds like your wear indicator is hitting the rotor warning you that the pads need to be replaced. Let me know what you find, thanks.
i haven't found my question/answer...my brakes HUMMM (like a fog horn) when going in reverse????
- AUTHOR
Hi Aundrea,
Most likely the brake pad is not releasing completely and is still rubbing agains the rotor even after letting off the brake pedal. Let me know how you make out, thanks.
Hello Eddie!
I've dealt with brakes before but for the first time there was no squeaking whatsoever only suddenly or my brakes grinding and ultimately failing. usually there's some type of warning but this time there was not. now the grinding is severe hurts my ears even, but even after releasing the brake there's a slight clicking / scraping sound going on.. my brakes will be replaced tomorrow but I hope to be prepared in helping to fix the whole problem. I understand the sound and feeling from my brake pads needing replacement but it's the other sound that doesn't happen while pressing the brake at all only afterwards. Could it be the sensor? If not what else would cause this sound to occur coming from the front of my vehicle seperate from the braking sound, only occurring after??
- AUTHOR
Hi Laura,
What is the year, make, mileage and model of the truck? What does the rubbing noise sound like, metal, plastic, rubber, etc? Are you braking when you hear it or are you coasting to a stop?
My truck just started making a rubbing noise, it does it while slowing down or speeding up. After a little bit it goes away but starts back up again when I crank it up again. Any idea what could cause this?
- AUTHOR
Hi Mandy,
Here are two possible problems, have your tires checked for uneven wear, and also have the rotors checked for pad impression, sometimes pad impression on the rotors can cause this issue.
- AUTHOR
You're welcome Ellie,
There is no reason to be embarrassed at all, without questions, there are no answers :) You know where to find me if you have any other questions :)
What about a woo woo woo noise when coming to a stop? Brakes are only a year old.
Oh thank you so much for your reply! It gave me peace. I feel embarrassed but I don't know much about these new cars my previous car was a 2001 sentra and never made that sound lol
- AUTHOR
Hi Shonofear,
The nose can be fixed by resurfacing the rotors/drums, it's usually caused by pad impressions and it's not dangerous so no worries. I'm glad my method worked for you :) even if it's temporary.
- AUTHOR
Hi Chris,
It sounds like you may have brake pad impression embedded on the rotor surface causing a thumping noise. Check the rotor surface where the brake pads ride and look for brake pad impressions or lines.
- AUTHOR
Hi Ellie,
No worries, that is just the ABS pump working. You may have also felt the brake pedal kick back a little, this is normal when your tires are about to skid or stop rotating.
Hi
I just bought a 2016 Corolla. It snowed yesterday and when I hit the brakes it sounded like wires were pulling from the front diver side. It was a very weird loud sound which made me worried. On a different dry day, while I was turning right to go to a gas station and hit the brake the same sound came out. Should I be worried?
Hi Eddie,
I have a 2007 suburban when stopping at speeds between 25 and 10 mph it sounds like your hitting speed bumps it only does it when stopping have checked brakes do not see anything visible thanks for your help
Hi,
Thanks for your tips, my car is a 2002 Toyota Corolla sedan, very basic 1.3L model and after owing it for 1 month I recall driving to work in the rain (mostly around 50kph for 7km) and when I stopped at work I heard this very loud thud noise in the rear, I was very confused but forgot about it. Now since then when braking coming to a stop the thuds are the same as what you described and driving me nutz. And it seems to have only got louder in the last few months.
I bought it from a mate in May 2017 and it was sitting for 1 month unused in the open, got rained on a bit.
I'm about to to sell the car but don't want any potential buyers to be put off by the thuds so I have tried your method of using the emergency hand brake for 3-5 seconds at moderate speeds and it seemed to work at first. Then the next day I thought u would try a few more times and it seemed to bring the noise back again.
So, I tried one last time a few days back and it seems to have quiet downed a lot, to the point it may be fixed :)
Sucks that this happened to me and only owning for a short time, but really hoping it stays quiet so it sells, but don't want it to start making noises again for the new owner, I'd feel a bit bad. Oh well.
Thanks for your help.
- AUTHOR
Hello Ebenzer,
Welcome :) Glad to help from across the world. It sounds like your brakes are hanging up. I recommend checking your emergency brake pad/shoes and cables, check for any damaged or missing parts. I have seen where the e-brake cable will get caught on something and cause the brakes to drag. Let me know what you find, thanks.
hello sir , i have a nissan patrol safari ( y61 ) 2013 model .i park the car at night on a flat surface.when i start the car and put it in drive , the wheels seem to be locked.then i have to reverse the car for a little distance and then it can go forward. and afterwards there is a screeching sound which goes away after driving forward. could you please let me know what the problem might be.
PS. i am writing to you from the middle east ( dubai )
thanks to advise .
- AUTHOR
Hi Erica,
It sounds like the mechanic may have resurfaced the rotors, if this is the case, sometimes you will hear a light grinding noise when braking because of the new surface of the rotor. If the noise continues, have the mechanic go for a ride with you so you can point out the noise and get their opinion. Let me know what happens, thanks.
Hello Eddie, I was told by the dealer I need new brake pads for both axles. I got the back brakes replaced not the front. Now when I gradually press on the brakes to stop I hear a grinding noise that sound like it is coming from the back. Once I release the brakes I no longer hear it. It do not happen when I have to stop suddenly only when I gradually press on brakes to stop. What is it you think?
- AUTHOR
Hi Kelly,
That noise is most likely caused by the vacuum brake booster. It may have an internal vacuum leak. Does the brake pedal feel normal or is it hard to push?
Question: when i start to brake I hear this releasing air sound..any idea what it could be
- AUTHOR
Hi Inga,
I recommend having the external engine belt checked first, it may need an adjustment or replacement. Let me know what you find, thanks.
Hi Eddie, im having an issue with my car while driving or when i accelerate i get a high pitched squealing sound & im not touching my brakes. My brake pads also do need replacing as they also make a high pitched sound when i brake but only sometimes, so i do know about that but i am worried about the high pitched noise while i accelerate and then soon as i slow down and when i put my clutch in it goes away. But this is not constant, it happen sometimes.
- AUTHOR
Hi Alex,
Most likely you have something stuck between the rotor and backing plate causing the noise, or maybe the backing plate is rusted and is contacting the rotor, either way, figure out which wheel the noise is coming from, remove the wheel and inspect the gap between the rotor and backing plate.
- AUTHOR
Hi Arthur,
It's usually the aftermarket pads that cause that noise but keep in mind that if there is any moisture on the rotors when this happens, it could be caused by the moisture, it's almost like taking a wet finger and rubbing it on the rim of a wine glass to make it hum.
Thanks for your reply!
Calipers are OEM but rotors/pad are aftermarkets.
PS: the noise happened only at low speed.
Hello I have a 2003 Honda accord and my rear passenger side wheel is making a kind of scraping sound like tin cans being dragged on the road. But only when I'm driving at low speeds is when it happens. There is no noise when I'm braking only when I'm driving at low speeds. What do you think it is?
- AUTHOR
Hi Arthur,
Have you used OEM brake pads or did you use aftermarket pads?
Hello,
My 2010 cobalt SS meets a strange problem. In every morning or after parking for a long time, in first few mins, I can always hear significant squeaking noise from rear driver side when I apply brake, but it goes away soon (In 30 secs or 500 meters). I changed all rotors, pads, even calipers and flux lines. All mechanics told me the car is totally safe, but I really do not like such noise. Except this, the brake system works very well.. Any suggestion?
Sincerely,
Arthur.C
- AUTHOR
Hi Nabeelhk,
I recommend calling the Nissan Company direct and start a claim. They may be able to recommend another dealer in your area that can assist you. The vehicle is under warranty and should be fixed by an authorized Nissan dealer. I hope this helps.
Hi,
I am Nissan Pathfinder 2016 base model 2WD(front wheel drive). i changed oil at 2000 kms from that time some vibration started. This vibration was during idle (with A/C on and off ), & running. i requested Nissan to check and they change only the valves of cylinder. Later on again started vibration .complaint many time but no assistance. later at 20k oil chnage they adjust my parking brake and vibration become more worst.I was feeling someone holding the car from behind and my economy was decreased which clearly shows that the rear brake was tighten too much and i can feel the vibration from my steering wheel and by holding the gear handle .it became more worst when suddenly rear part of the car vibrate suddenly,the vibration was high that my car rear part was jumping and high vertical vibration was observed but after stopping the car without engine off again there was no vibration..They skimmed my brakes but no change in vibration.they balanced my wheels but vibration still persist.Complaint again and again to Nissan but no assistance from them.
May you please help in this regard.
- AUTHOR
Hi Ric,
Usually, any type of drum noise is caused by pad impressions on the rotor surface, if you have rear drum brakes, they may need to be adjusted or the drum may need to be resurfaced as well. If you have drum brakes in the rear, try pulling up slightly on the e-brake handle while driving, using caution to hold the release button to release the brake easily. If you hear the noise, you know that is where the problem exists. Let me know what you find, thanks.
Hi Eddie,
I have a Honda 2013 Accord LX. Everything works fine but I have been seeing some problem with the brakes in last few months. Initially I saw that my steering wheel started vibrating when I applied brakes at high speeds so I took it to the service center and they resurfaced the rotor which fixed the problem however now I am seeing a more weird problem. It is hard to explain however I will try my best.
First of all it does not happen all the time and not at all in city speed limits but when I am on highways it will not start happening atonce however once I have driven for let's say 40-59 miles and after that if I apply brakes, it does make a very weird sound(like someone beating drum slowly), my steering wheel does not vibrate though. I also sometimes feel like my brake might fail however it has not happened yet and hope it does not happen. Any suggestions or expert advice on what could be causing this issue would be highly appreciated. Thanks!
Replaced my pads with medium grade and put new discs on too. Now I have a brake squeal in the rear and I can't tell which side. It only happens after driving 10 km or more. I re bled thinking I had air in the system but it persists. It gets to a point where when you roll to a stop you can tell 1 brake is locked. Buy once I stop and jack it up, then it releases and I can't tell which one. While replacing pads I was able to push the pistons back okay. Thoughts?
- AUTHOR
Hi Nguyen,
Did you use original equipment Toyota brake pads? Do you park outside? Do you live in a high humidity area? Let me know, thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Selwyn,
No that is not true, braking to lightly is not a problem. You say the car gets hot? Or do the brakes get hot? Did you use original equipment pads from VW? If not, that could be your issue, not the rotors.
Hi Eddie
I had new brakes put in January 2017, i recently noted that after i have driven a while and car gets hot, there is a squeak (kind of eeee eeeee eeee eeee sound when i brake) this is only heard once the car has driven for a while and stays there till its cooled down.
I have been told that it is because i brake to gently and this has formed layer on the rotor? is this possible and how do i remove it and also prevent it
Driving a 2006 vw citi chico (if that makes a differance)
Thank you
Regards Selwyn Landman
Hello Eddie,
I sent in a post today about a new Rav4 2016 car and meant to say that the hmmm... hmmm is more like a howling or drone hummm or on a keyboard the pitch is G below middle C. It occurs when I brake and seems to be in the front and it occurs when driving over 40 mph. It is not continuous. At 60 mph it gets very loud and can change pitch. Thank you.
- AUTHOR
Hi Joanie,
I think Blondes are awesome, and a lot of so called mechanics have no business working on cars. A faulty brake booster will not cause a low brake pedal, it causes a very stiff brake pedal with no vacuum assist. Control arms and ball joints will not cause a low brake pedal either, so I'm not sure why the mechanic sold you a bill of goods without fixing your original problem first. I have words for these so called mechanics that I can't use here lol. It sounds like you may have a damaged brake line on the side they replaced the hub, maybe it's twisted causing a blockage?
A hub is just a wheel bearing, but you have to remove the caliper in order to replace the hub, so the original mechanic may not have installed the caliper correctly the first time. I recommend bringing it back to the people who sold you the bill of goods and have them fix your problem at no charge, take them for a road test to point out your issue, then road test is after the repair to verify the problem is fixed correctly, and remember, the squeaky wheel gets the oil, so go back and complain to the manager. Keep me posted on what happens, thanks.
- AUTHOR
Hi Kim,
I'm not really sure what the mechanic meant about the left side? I recommend having it checked just to be sure there are no unsecured brake caliper bolts or something. A single click is normal on some vehicles, it's called pad shift, it's when there is a very little bit of clearance between the brake pads and calipers, when the brakes are applied, the pad will shift once and click against the caliper. Let me know if this helps, and keep me posted on your second opinion, thanks.
I have brake issues that I never had until the front left hub assembly was replaced. Immediately when I picked it up from shop the brakes started grabbing and pedal goes down. I took it to another shop. Hydraulic brake booster, upper arm controls, ball joints replaced. Back 3x and they still can't figure out the problem. I'm not a mechanic and I am blonde. Does it not make sense that something is wrong with hub assembly?? Also put new tires on it.
Hi
I keep hearing this clicking sound every time I press the break to come to a stop would you have any idea what that might be. I changed the breaks on my audi a4 quattro wagon in March. Just start it hearing the noise about a week ago after I took it to the mechanic. He said it might be because he put it on the left as to why it's making that noise but I'm not too sure about that
Just wanted to thank you for the information that was very helpful, it solved my brake problem, Thank you again.
Spoke too soon. Brake hose didn't fix it but it is definitely an issue of the caliper not retracting fully so I am going to replace that tonight. If that doesn't work, I will replace the pads and rotor AGAIN and if it still isn't right, i'm going to drive it into the river and cash out the insurance ;)
(not really)
Squeaky brake problem has been solved (so far)
It was a combination of a slight variations in the rotor (micro warping) and a faulty brake hose. The hose wouldn't allow the caliper to retract fully, leaving the pads pressed lightly against the rotors and the squeak was when the distortion passed the pad.
No more drive squeak although they still occasionally squeak on a stop.
hint: never buy organic brake pads, especially for a solid rotor.
Thank you for posting about the thumping from the rear! I could not figure it out at all. You guys rock!
- AUTHOR
Hi Zoe,
If the vehicle has aftermarket pads, this could be your problem, also a lack of lubrication on all contact points is another common problem. If you have aftermarket pads, start by replacing them with OEM pads. Let me know your thoughts, thanks.
Hi,
I purchased a 2014 CRV with 31K miles on it and i noticed it makes a chirping noise like one second before full stop and one second after i move on low speed , i took the car to two mechanics and had the back rotors/pads changed but the noise is still there with no change
this is driving me crazy , i dont want to spend too much on the car since this is a new car and there should not be issues and noises with it or at least that is what i expected , your thoughts please
Thanks
Zoe
- AUTHOR
Hi Craig,
Make sure there is lube on ALL the contacting points where the pads touch the caliper. Also, check the anti-rattle clips, be sure they are not touching the rotor anywhere. Check the rotors for any shiny spots on the edges or face where something may be rubbing. Hope this helps, let me know if I can help in any other way, and keep me posted on what you find, thanks.
I have an intermittent squeak from the left rear wheel. only hear it while driving and stops when braking. not a long constant squeal, just a "squeak-squeak-squeak" at the rate of the turning wheel.
Pads are less than 6 months old, rotors are 2 months old, all were replaced because of this same problem which resolved the squeak for a couple months.
would this be indicative of rotor warping? they are solid, not vented.
I've been beating my head against the wall on this since it started after I put new pads on last year.
any help would be appreciated :)
- AUTHOR
Hi Jesse,
If the brakes were just fixed, then maybe the rear brakes are just out of adjustment, or the brake shoe linings fell off their shoes. The hissing is caused by the brake booster using up all the vacuum stored in the tank because your brake pedal goes so low to the floor. The car is not safe to drive like this and I highly recommend you have someone look at the rear brakes first. If you need to stop in an emergency and you have no brakes, you could seriously hurt or kill someone. Brakes are a lot less expensive than living with the pain of knowing you hurt or killed someone. Hope this helps, and let me know if I can help in any other way.
Hello,
A few months ago the rear drum brakes on my '96 Chevy Cavalier stopped working over night, & now only the front brakes work. Although the rear drums aren't working, they are still making a loud "thud" noise whenever I take my foot off the break & accelerate at traffic lights. The brake pedal almost goes all the way to the floor before there is any pressure. I can also hear a slight hissing noise, like an air leak, coming from behind the driver side dash. What's odd about that is the harder I press down on the brake, the less I can hear the hissing noise. So, basically just wanted to get your opinion on where I should start to fix this problem. Taking it to a garage to get looked at or fixed just isn't an option for me financially at this time so your advice is greatly appreciated. Thank u so much. (FYI, I got this car from my mother in law who let it sit for well over a year before I got it & its extremely rusted. She also had the entire brake system replaced/fixed about a year ago. Thanks again)
- AUTHOR
Hi Rosey,
I recommend having the rear brakes checked ASAP. I'm not sure if you have disc or drum brakes but something is loose and you don't want to lose your brakes. Let me know what you find, thanks.
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