Symptoms of a Bad EGR Valve

Updated on March 8, 2018
Dan Ferrell profile image

Dan Ferrell writes about do-it-yourself car maintenance and repair. He has certifications in automation and control technology.

Has your EGR valve (your Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve) gone bad? Maybe. I'll tell you the symptoms below. But before you start replacing parts, keep in mind that the same engine performance problems that indicate a bad EGR valve can also indicate problems in other parts of the system. If you don’t do your troubleshooting, you may end up replacing parts unnecessarily and wasting time and money.

So this article will tell you several things:

  • the symptoms of a bad EGR valve;
  • how to start investigating whether the problem is your EGR valve or something else;
  • what the EGR valve does and how it works;
  • and the different types of EGR valves.

EGR valve passages plugged with carbon deposits.
EGR valve passages plugged with carbon deposits. | Source

Symptoms of a Bad EGR Valve

Symptoms of a bad EGR valve include:

  • rough idling or stalling
  • a smell of fuel
  • increased fuel consumption
  • pinging, tapping, or knocking sounds
  • failed smog test
  • Check Engine Light on

Valve Stuck Open Vs. Valve Stuck Shut

Actually there are two kinds of bad EGR valves, with different symptoms. An EGR valve can fail in two ways: It can be open all the time, or it can be closed all the time.

If the EGR Valve Sticks Open:

This will cause a continuous flow of exhaust gases into the intake manifold. You'll notice one or more of the following symptoms:

  • A rough idle upon starting the engine (that is, when the engine is cold) and sometimes at a stop light or while looking for a spot in a parking lot (that is, at low engine speeds in a warmed-up engine).
  • Stalling when the engine idles.
  • Increase in fuel consumption.
  • A slight—or strong—fuel odor while operating the vehicle, because of the increase in hydrocarbons leaving the tailpipe (see the next symptom).
  • Your car fails the emissions test. When the engine is running at low RPM, lower temperatures in the combustion chambers prevent all the fuel from burning, so the flow of unburned hydrocarbon gases coming out of the tailpipe increases significantly.
  • The Check Engine light (or Malfunction Indicator Light, MIL, depending on your model) illuminates on your dashboard.

If the EGR Valve Sticks Closed:

This will permanently block the flow of exhaust gases into the intake manifold. You'll notice one or more of the following symptoms:

  • A pinging or tapping noise coming from the engine at low RPM (at speeds higher than idle). The noise is the sound of early ignition of the fuel when it meets high temperatures.
  • Loud detonations. A second ignition can happen after the normal ignition, and the two can combine with enough power to cause engine damage.
  • Your car fails the emission test. High temperatures in the combustion chamber allow the excessive formation of oxides of nitrogen, which are released through the tailpipe.
  • The Check Engine light, or Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL), illuminates on your dashboard.

Troubleshooting: Is it the EGR Valve or Something Else?

To make things even more complicated, the same engine performance problems that indicate a bad EGR valve can also indicate problems in other parts of the system:

  • spark plugs,
  • spark plug wires,
  • the fuel filter,
  • the fuel pump regulator,
  • and various engine sensors.

An increase in hydrocarbon emissions isn’t necessarily caused by a stuck-open EGR valve. Problems in other systems may cause this same symptom as well: a leaking fuel injector, bad ignition timing, bad cylinder compression, bad oxygen sensor, or other problems.

Similarly, an increase in NOx may be caused by a vacuum leak, a clogged fuel injector, low fuel pressure, a leaking head gasket, or other problems.

A rough idle may be caused by a faulty ignition coil, a vacuum leak, or an ignition system problem.

So before spending money and replacing parts, troubleshoot the EGR valve and other system components to try to narrow down the problem. This article, How to Test an EGR Valve, gives a series of troubleshooting procedures on vacuum and electrical vacuum-controlled EGR valves, and will help you find out if the problem is your EGR or something else.

If your car has an electronic EGR valve, troubleshooting will be easier, because it will have a Check Engine or MIL light on the dashboard, and you will be able to find out what engine system malfunction triggered the light. With an aftermarket scan tool, you can pull the trouble codes from the computer's memory and see what system or components are causing the problem. Then, you can try to find the fault with the help of the vehicle repair manual for your particular car make and model. Haynes makes good inexpensive aftermarket manuals.

Source

The EGR's Job: Processing Exhaust Gases

The outside air picked up through the engine's intake manifold contains close to 80 percent nitrogen and 20 percent oxygen, along with small amounts of other elements. When outside air combines with the fuel and ignites in the combustion chamber, temperatures can reach above 2500o F (or 1370o C). Combustion at these temperatures burns the usually inert gas nitrogen, creating oxides of nitrogen (NOx) gases, which cause air pollution and human health problems.

However, when the burned exhaust gases are introduced back into the combustion chamber through the EGR valve, temperatures decrease, inhibiting the formation of NOx gases.

What the EGR Valve Does

The EGR valve is a small component designed to allow the flow of exhaust gases into the intake manifold in controlled amounts. As such, it's a simple valve that closes and opens as needed.

The EGR valve has one single job to do, regardless of the system configuration, type of control and number of sensors: that is, to either open and direct exhaust gases into the combustion chamber, or to close and keep them from entering.

Whenever you start the engine, the valve comes alive and waits in a closed position, blocking the flow of exhaust gases.

Once the engine reaches operating temperature and speed increases, the valve—either through vacuum or electronic control—gradually opens, allowing burned exhaust gases to enter and combine with the air-fuel mixture inside the combustion chamber. If you slow down sufficiently or come to a stop, the valve gradually closes and blocks the flow of exhaust gasses. And the process continues for as long as the engine is running.

After you shut off the engine, the EGR valve closes and remains in that position.

Types of EGR Systems

Gasoline and diesel-powered engines on the road today may use one of several different EGR valve configurations.

  • On older vehicle models, you'll recognize the EGR valve as a round, thick metal disc about three inches in diameter, usually towards the top of the engine and on the side. On these older models, a small-diameter vacuum hose operates a basic EGR valve. The hose connects the top of the valve to the throttle body or carburetor. The valve's metal disk houses a vacuum diaphragm, spring, and plunger.
  • Later models come equipped with electronic-vacuum EGR valves inside a small block or cylinder. The valve works the same way as in older models, except that an electronic EGR position sensor communicates with the car's computer for better control. You may see electric solenoids connected through vacuum lines to the valve as well.
  • Newer vehicle models use electronic EGR systems that may include additional components, even a digital valve that eliminates the need for vacuum control altogether.
  • A more radical design, implemented in a few models, was the replacement of the valve with EGR jets at the bottom of the intake manifold.
  • Some newer high-efficiency engines, for example those with variable valve timing (VVT), don't even use an EGR system.

Types of EGR Valves

  • Vacuum-controlled EGR valve
  • Back-pressure EGR valve
  • Electronic vacuum-controlled EGR valve
  • Digital EGR valve
  • EGR jet (in place of EGR valve)

Locating the EGR on a Corvette and on a Truck

A Sensor Related to the EGR on the Ford Focus

Bad EGR valve symptoms vary and resemble problems in other engine systems. But now that you know the type of symptoms a troubled EGR valve will produce, include it in your troubleshooting tests. And restrain yourself from swapping components trying to fix the problem before knowing which part is causing you trouble. Most of the time, you'll just spend time and money unnecessarily. Troubleshoot your EGR valve and other components.

Test Your Knowledge

view quiz statistics

Questions & Answers

  • I own an Ashok Leyland EGR system 1618T. I have changed the EGR three times, and again it is defective. This is the fourth time. The EGR is leaking from inside. What are the possible causes?

    The system uses a simple (but different) iEGR design that's able to accommodate up to 400 HP. If there's no visible outside leak into the valve, you might want to contact the dealer and refer the issue to them.

  • I have a Crown Victoria that will not stay running unless my foot is on the gas, is it the EGR?

    Check the idle air control (IAC) valve for proper operation or carbon buildup. You'll need to remove it and do a visual inspection of the valve, as well as the ports.

  • I have a 2006 Audi A4 TDI. When I'm about 1300m above sea level, the car operates fine, but when I go to the coast, the car loses power as if the turbo stops working. I have taken it for Diagnostics with Audi. They say the EGR valve needs to be replaced. Does this sound like the cause of the problem?

    The EGR system does need to have a specific calibration to respond quickly to changes in demands to the pressure level in the intake system. In this particular case, it's hard to tell if the EGR system is the one affected more by the difference in pressure, but certainly, it is possible.

Comments

    0 of 8192 characters used
    Post Comment

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      4 weeks ago

      Hi JK,

      One of the most common faults in an EGR system is carbon buildup. So you can make sure to change the spark plugs, spark plug wires as suggested by the manufacturer schedule. Problems in the ignition and fuel system may also cause problems in the system. So keep an eye on them.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      James 

      4 weeks ago

      I have a 03 impala and I’m not sure if it’s the egr or fuel filter or what but I replaced both 02 sensors and it acts like its not getting enough gas and wants to stall but if u give it extra gas the cel will blink and after u let off it will drive fine reminds me of a bad fuel injector and the it backfires when u give it a good amount of gas to get up a hill if not u will slow down really slow

    • profile image

      Jukka Kivinen 

      4 weeks ago

      I got an EGR fault in my Volvo V70 D Automat after 90.000 km:s. It is an expensive job but Volvo factory paid for it as a warranty repair. My question is: can you prevent egr defects in driving style eg. letting Cruise control be on. I used to lower engine rpm:s manually to save fuel

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      2 months ago

      Hi HS,

      First get the trouble code, you may need to check the circuit, or a solenoid in the system, before replacing the valve.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Hi Sarika 

      2 months ago

      I had my EGR valve cleaned and the check engine light is on again, my fuel consumption has increased. if I continue to drive my vehicle while in ordering the replacement part what are the risks involved?

      Thanks

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      3 months ago

      Hi Scott

      The check engine light (CEL) might be related to the EGR valve or not. A CEL comes on for different reasons, improperly replacing an air duct after replacing the air filter can be another reason. Get first the trouble codes using a scan tool and see what the computer tells you and go from there. Most auto parts store will now retrieve the codes without charge.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Scott 

      3 months ago

      I had my mechanic replace my egr valve and fuel oil and air filter, the car is running like it’s missing and an engine management light comes on as well. It’s a Ford Focus 1.6 tdci (59) . Any thoughts about this thanks

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      4 months ago

      Hi Declan

      Usually is better to clear the code, otherwise it'll take longer for the computer to clear and make the necessary adjustments.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Declan 

      4 months ago

      Hi i have a 1.9 TID Saab and i need to clean the EGR valve. I was wondering if i have to put it back on the computer to delete the fault after i've done it or will it be ok?

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      4 months ago

      Hi Ran

      The EGR valve is normally close at idle.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Ran 

      5 months ago

      So how does one go about closing up an egr valve?

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      5 months ago

      Hi LN

      That might create a small leak. Have you had a chance to test it? - That might create a problem with the feedback pressure reading for the sensor. If you have the repair manual, you might want to check the position sensor for the valve as well.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Larry Neal 

      5 months ago

      hi Dan. 1996 Chevy S10 2.2L. Code P1406. After I cleaned the dog crap out of it i noticed that when i turned the egr valve upside down the pintle fell in a little bit. That should not happen i take it. The pintle should stay out at all times unless i press on it i take it. I am still getting the same code :{

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      5 months ago

      Hi Rgorke,

      While it's possible there's a vacuum leak or EGR problems, there are other common faults that can cause a lean mixture:

      * MAF sensor

      * dirty injectors

      * fuel filter clogged

      * Worn fuel pump

      Check for items affecting bank 2, injectors specially. If you have easy access to the EGR valve, you may want to inspect underneath - carbon deposits and gasket condition.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Rgorke 

      5 months ago

      2004 Lincoln LS V8 - Had been getting lean code (P0171/P0174) changed all vacuum lines, Fuel filter, etc. ODB2 reader shows: O-32 EGR Monitor Bank 2: 82 - Manufacturer Specfic, Value 0.126 Min -4.753, Max -4.737

      Could this be a clogged or non functioning EGR? Have read the dusty climates (where this LS lived) can clog EGR. Can the EGR be cleaned or in need of a new one?

      Also, Short term and long term fuel trims are in right range after car warms up. Maybe a stuck open EGR can mess with fuel trims? Meaning can it mimic a vacuum leak?

      Thanks

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      5 months ago

      Hi Travis,

      the codes seem to point to specific cylinders (1,6). Have you checked the spark for those cylinders?, there may be a problem in the ignition system or fuel injectors. Usually a faulty EGR valve won't cause misfires to specific cylinders.

      Good luck.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      5 months ago

      Hi Ryan,

      There could be many reasons why the engine loses power. But the computer is good at detecting faults at the emissions systems (EGR) - try to get the troube codes with a scanner or take it to an auto parts store for this. Some models are sensitive about non-OEM parts, so it is possible the new valve is the problem.

      You can check online for the recommended valve for your model - I recommend going to rock auto.com

    • profile image

      Travis 

      5 months ago

      Hi Dan,

      I have a 2006 Subaru B9 Tribeca 3.0L H6.

      I have been trying to solve a misfire issue for a month now. A P0301, with an occasional P0306 as well. It idles rough, around 1500rpms, normally idles at around 700-800. That idle can fluctuate after being on for while and decrease. The misfires disappear occasionally altogether. I originally thought it to be a intake manifold gasket issue. So I replaced them all. The misfires went away for two days of driving, then came back upon startup on the 3rd day in the same two cylinders. Can an egr valve cause a specific misfire to just 1 or 2 cylinders? Or would it not be all cylinders randomly?

      Thanks!

    • profile image

      Ryan 

      5 months ago

      Hi Dan,

      I have a Ford Focus II 2010 1.6 TDCI. The car loses power at certain points, usually when I get to a high rev. It will then just about maintain the same speed but with little or no acceleration. I brought it back to the seller (under warranty) who changed the EGR valve. It did not fix the issue, but he then told me he just discovered that the EGR valve he used is not fully compatible with Focuses and that I would need a different one. He now refuses to change it or answer calls.

      So my questions -

      1. Do you think the EGR valve is the issue?

      2. If so, which is the correct, compatible EGR valve to purchase so I can take it to another mechanic.

      Any help much appreciated.

      Thanks

      Ryan

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      5 months ago

      Hi JF,

      It seems it has a restriction but hard to tell.

      Check the vacuum hoses to the PCV valve and to the intake. It's a good idea to check the condition of the EGR valve, but it could also be a sensor giving you trouble. The fact that you have to hold the accelerator may point to a throttle position sensor. Have you checked for DTC (trouble codes) with the scanner?

      That could also give you some clues, even if the engine light is not on.

      Other possibilities:

      bad fuel pressure,

      fuel injector dirty,

      bad oxygen sensor.

      bad IAC (idle air control)

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      JustFloyd 

      6 months ago

      I have a 1995 GMC C2500 5.7L That has started having a rough idle/stall issue shortly after a cold start. On startup it seems to work fine, but a few miles down the road if I have to stop it will die. The only way to restart is to hold the gas pedal to the floor and crank it. Once it does start it will rough idle and die even if I am reving it to 1500-2000 rpm. Once it thoroughly heats up it seems to run ok. I found the elbow on the nipple at the base of the carb was split. It is the connector from the pcv valve. I replace id and put in a new pcv valve. It ran ok for a couple of days, but has started doing the same thing again. Could it be the egr valve?

    • profile image

      Brandon 

      6 months ago

      P.S. I forgot to add that it runs the same if the moter is cold or hot if that makes a difference when it comes to the egr.

    • profile image

      Brandon 

      6 months ago

      I have a 95 chevy 1500 with a 5.3 thats throttle body. Ive changed plugs and plug wires, fuel filter, disturber cap, and roter button, the temperature sensor, and i think it was a map sensor i changed also and it still dont want to idle or take gas right at low speeds. If i stop at a stop light it will plum die out if i dont hold the brake and give it a lil gas at the same time. Im going to change the egr valve and egr solenoid tomorrow. Whats the chances of this fixing my truck?? Please help!!

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      6 months ago

      Hi Alicia,

      It seems there's something wrong with the electrical system in the EGR system. You want to check that first.

      There may be other problems for the low power, perhaps in the ignition system (no spark) or the fuel system. The odor may be fuel.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Alicia 

      6 months ago

      Hi Dan , I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer when I drive it doesn't want to pick up speed , didn't even pass 40 miles now not even 25 when I parked Last time it had an odor , my niece put the reader thing it said P0404 do you think is really the egr ???

    • profile image

      Farouk 

      6 months ago

      Thank you Dan for your answer, In fact, the fuel filter was so dirty, but I replaced it three weeks ago. Nothing improved though. I scanned the comptuer memory and it indicated a faulty MAP sensor. The Check Engine warning light sometimes on and sometimes off. The engine loses power at around 2000 rpm when I slowly accelerate. But when I accelerate fast it doen't lose power. The engine recovers its power below the 2000 rpm or above it around the 3000 rpm. It doesn't make any abnormal smoke or noise. I cleaned the MAP sensor again but nothing changes. I'll check the catalytic converter and the vacuum line for any leak. Thank you again.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      6 months ago

      Hi Karol,

      The P0405 points to an EGR circuit sensor, did you have it checked yet?

      Good luck

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      6 months ago

      Hi Farouk,

      I was tempted to say a clogging fuel filter but you said the engine is running good otherwise. Other possibilities are a weak fuel pump, leaking vacuum line, or a clogged catalytic converter, bad ignition timing. Have you scan the computer memory for trouble codes?

      Check first for vacuum leaks. Still, when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Farouk 

      6 months ago

      Hi,

      Thank you for the article. Astra G 1.7 dti (2004) looses power when it reaches 2000 rpm. I notice this when running on the 1st and the second gear. I cleaned the MAP sensor and the problem seemed to disappear for a few miles but the same symptoms apeared again. I tried another used MAP sensor but the engine shows the same symptoms. As for the idle there is nothing to complain about. There is no smoke. The enginge is in mint conditions.

      I still suspect the MAP sensor not being properly cleaned or faulty.

      What do you think Den? What could be the real problem?

      Thnaks again.

    • profile image

      Aamir Wasti 

      6 months ago

      Your page in really helpfull and informative.

    • profile image

      Kalei 

      6 months ago

      Hi.. I have a 2001 mitzubishi the last 2 days my car will shut off completely when at a complete stop. I have to hold the break and gas pedal the whole ride so the RPMs won't drop below 1. I've know the egr valuve in the car is bad but could that be the reason for it shutting off my car when at a complete stop? I JUST got it out the shop last week and had a few things done to it already. And it's just draining me and idk what to do. I had the chrank shaft sensor, all spark plugs and wires changed, the water pump and pull system with a brand new timing chain. Also the alternator changed a couple months ago. So everything is basically new besides my EGR valuve

    • profile image

      Karol 

      7 months ago

      Hi can anyone help please i have a 2003 Pontiac grand am gt it had the code p0405 I replaced the egr and check engine light came off on its own then i cleared the codes and then i did the drive cycle but it’s still not ready and will fail the smog test what else can it be that its failing? I also scanned it again and no codes are coming up

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      7 months ago

      Hi yasir,

      The engine is probably leaking oil into the cylinders, that's why the black smoke. Maybe this explains why the engine lacks power.

      Do a compression test to see what is the mechanical condition of the engine. A vacuum test might help too.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      yasir 

      7 months ago

      I had ford figo 2010 model and car gives back smoke and speed is not increasing above 80 while giving full accerlater and gives a lot of smoke and i also found the air filter getting black help me to solve the problem

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      7 months ago

      Hi Peter

      If the emission contains coolant and some oil in the mix, there may be a problem in the cylinder block or head. Possibly a crack, blown head gasket or a mix of problems.

      Do a vacuum and compression test to get a more accurate diagnosis before you begin any disassembly. You'll save a lot of time and money.

      Good luck

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      7 months ago

      Hi Albert,

      If you are testing the valve, for example, and you apply vacuum to it, it should open (rise). Without vacuum, it is normally closed.

      Hope it helps.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Albert 

      7 months ago

      When compressing the valve on a egr is it supposed to stay in or come back out

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      7 months ago

      Hi Khary

      There may be several reasons for this. Check this article for some info:

      https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Engine-Rough-Id...

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Khary 

      7 months ago

      I have a 1998 ford expedition with a 5.4 last night as I was driving home it began to have a rough idle can someone please help me out

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      7 months ago

      Hi JM,

      Check the EGR system, there may be problems with the sensor, carbon buildup underneath the valve or tubing, or the valve itself may be faulty.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      James morris 

      7 months ago

      Throttle body is clear put vacume on her valve very little change getting a p0401 code need help what can it be

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      8 months ago

      Hi Sharon

      If you haven't seen a puddle of oil on the ground, it's possible you may have a blown head gasket or cracked block or cylinder head.

      Is there black smoke coming out of the tail

      Have a compression or vacuum test done on the engine.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Sharon 

      8 months ago

      What would suck the oil out of the oil pan? Put in a qt of oil. The next day not a drop of oil in the pan.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      8 months ago

      Hi Roy,

      It seems the engine is running rich, or one or more valves aren't closing on time.

      Check the fuel system -possibly a bad fuel pressure regulator or leaky fuel injector.

      Also check timing. You may have a problem in one of the sensors for the emission control.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Roy 

      8 months ago

      I have a ford 2001 150 4.2 v6 il replace all the electral part on my truck spark plugs wire coil replace gasket on in take clean massive air flow SENSOR run stead but I TAKE OFF hen it's idea but I TAKE OFF it start back fire load of it loses PRESSURE it want to.tale it hasites whT could it be am tried can't find what caused it

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      8 months ago

      Hi Tim,

      It's possible a cat is clogged. Check with a vacuum gauge. If the exhuast is clogges, also check a potential bad ignition coil(s) causing unburned fuel go to the exhaust.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Tim 

      8 months ago

      Yes what could cause and egr valve yo blow a hole in the elbow of it, I put a new one on it and as soon as I got it to 3ooo rpm it did the exact same thing ... what could be the problem?

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      8 months ago

      Hi FB,

      Glad to know you found the fault. At 200K it sounds like a good decisions to keep costs down. With a little bit of maintenance you might get another 100K out of it. Who knows.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Franklin Blevins 

      8 months ago

      After years of putting up with a loud sound coming from my engine and never being able to isolate the sound, it may have been caused by a failing EGR valve. I dismissed the EGR valve as a symptom because I was no longer getting a check code. Then suddenly, I start getting EGR codes and the sound is gone. Whether or not that makes sense, I am going to price and replace the EGR valve. With the engine having over 200 thousand miles on it, I am not that opposed to shotgunning parts, especially if the part is not too expensive, and it's not. Just ordered one on Ebay for 29 bucks. Wish me luck.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      8 months ago

      Hi Jody

      Look around the top left middle of the engine.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Jody.quebedeaux@hotmail.com 

      8 months ago

      Where is the EGR valve located on a 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 series 6.0 liter

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      8 months ago

      Hi Randall,

      Check the EGR system. Did you see any buildup inside the intake ports. Clear out passages with carb cleaner. Then clear the computer codes. See if that help.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Randall 

      9 months ago

      I have a 2000 Honda passport throwing a bad egr code ...replaced and tps and it still has the same problem which is hesitation during acceleration, hard shifting,complete loss of power while in gear mostly reverse you can almost hear it shift back into nuetrel on its on...any thoughts

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      9 months ago

      Hi MT,

      Check for air leaks around the air cleaner system,

      other potential issues:

      * vacuum leaks

      * bad fuel pump

      * clogging fuel filter

      * clogging fuel injectors

      On rare cases, installing a non-OEM part will make the codes to reapeear.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Michael Thompson 

      9 months ago

      I replaced my MAF and my engine codes still come up after clearing on p0171 and p0174 could someone help please Iam at a lose

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      9 months ago

      Hi Simon,

      It's possible there be some carbon left around the valve itself or the passages to the intake, possibly interfereing withe valve proper operation. Another possibility is that the valve itself is faulty or damaged due to the buildup or during the cleaning procedure.

      * Test the valve operation

      * Check for buildup left behind inside the valve and passages.

      Be very careful when cleaning the valve, the diaphragm and electronic componnents (if any) are very sensitive. Don't let any chemicals reach thsese components.

      Good luck

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      9 months ago

      Hi Kyle,

      Usually when the EMS flashes the MIL is becauses it "thinks" a misifire is being detected and sever enough to increase emissions beyond permissible limits.

      Check for OBD codes, and also, if necesary check the ignition system.

      Other possible causes for this:

      * a bad MAF,

      * emission, ignition failure

      * differential pressure Sensor fault

      * blocked diesel particulate filter

      Good luck

    • profile image

      simon 

      9 months ago

      Seat leon 1.6 ecomotive ..61 plate.. had no problem but since we had a carbon clean the glo light flashes (approx twice a week) the first week caused car to run in safe mode but after being left for a while was fine.. 2nd week only once it flashed but had no loss of power... could a piece of carbon be causing egr valve issue which is the fault that came up in the first week pointed to egr value occasionally and could another carbon clean clear it? or what would you advise

    • profile image

      simon 

      9 months ago

      Seat leon 1.6 ecomotive ..61 plate.. had no problem but since we had a carbon clean the glo light flashes (approx twice a week) the first week caused car to run in safe mode but after being left for a while was fine.. 2nd week only once it flashed but had no loss of power... could a piece of carbon be causing egr valve issue which is the fault that came up in the first week pointed to egr value occasionally and could another carbon clean clear it? or what would you advise

    • profile image

      Kyle 

      9 months ago

      Hi there,

      Wondering if you can advise. My car will start and drive but the engine management light will flash. Once I stop and restart the car the management light will stop. I would guess this would be an EGR valve problem but im hoping you can advise.

      2.0l tdi VW Golf mk6

      Thanks

      Kyle

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      9 months ago

      Hi Sean,

      I doubt a bad EGR valve can cause a no-start. You may have a problem in the starting, fuel or ignition system.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Sean 

      10 months ago

      Could a bad egr keep my 04 Chevy impala from starting?

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      10 months ago

      Hi Olivia,

      The check engine light is blinking because is warning you that a fault in the engine may cause serious damage to the catalytic converter. You may have too much unburned fuel going through the exhaust system or possibly oil. That's why the smoke you see. You need to look into the issue as soon as possible before it turns into a very expensive repair.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Olivia 

      10 months ago

      Hello Dan,

      My 98 Volvo v70 is smoking under the engine and the check engine light is blinking. Also seems to have a rough time going above 30 mph but the roughness goes away once I get above 40. It seems the go into limp mode when it's in the 30s. Does this sound like egr valve issues? Thanks

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      10 months ago

      Hi Brian,

      It sounds more like you got a fuel system issue. Have you checked the fuel pressure regulator, pobbily a bad pump?

      Try to get the DTC (trouble codes) from the computer and see what you got. That's a start.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Brian 

      10 months ago

      Hi Dan,

      Can a bad ERG value be causing my 2004 Kia Rio to loose power intermittently during acceleration? This situation repeats itself--I lose all power, then 8-10 seconds later it comes back, then power loss again. Thanks.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      11 months ago

      Hi Erick,

      A bad egr is not likely to cause a fault in the TPS but the sensor can prevent shifting.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Erick 

      11 months ago

      Can a bad egr trigger a bad throttle position sensor and make the car not shift?

    • profile image

      Gordon darragh 

      11 months ago

      I've just changed the egr valve on my mk7 transit and it's caused the plastic oil filter housing to crack twice

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      12 months ago

      Hi Scott

      Check to see if any vacuum hoses or connection was not properly replaced, or some screws left a little loose.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Scott 

      12 months ago

      Hi Dan

      I have a Hyundai Santa fe 2008 diesel. First it was stalling intermittently especially when slowing down or stopping. Mechanic replaced cam shaft sensors and serviced EGR. It doesn’t stall anymore. But it now seems to hesitate on acceleration it feels like its choking a bit when you start to accelerate.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      12 months ago

      Hi AE,

      Have you checked the vacuum hoses. It seems something didn't get properly connected.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Adam Elvis 

      12 months ago

      Hi Dan,

      I have a '06 Mazda Speed6 with 125,000 Kim's. I just replaced the EGR Valve and now my car has less power at higher rpms in 1st,2nd &3rd gears. When I put the peddle down, I hear a slight whistling sound ( like a hole in the muffler). All other components in my car are fine. What do you think the issue is with the loss of power and whistling air sound?

      Thanks,

      Adam.

    • profile image

      richard wright 

      12 months ago

      I have a 2002 Mazda millennia and it won't start it has fuel pressure and spark and won't start even with starting fluid any idels

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      12 months ago

      Hi Ben

      If the dies soon after it starts, check the fuel system, does you have enough fuel pressure, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter, do you check that all vacuum lines are properly connected and in good condition.

      Start with the basics, and scan the comoputer memory for trouble codes. A TC may give you a good direction at what the problem might be. You may have a problem with one or more sensors (camshaf or crankshaft problems?).

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Ben 

      12 months ago

      Hi Dab

      My car starts but cannot idle and the plugs do not fire up.

    • profile image

      Cheryl 

      12 months ago

      If the EGR valve is faulty would it make a loud noise when driving...like a sirene

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      13 months ago

      Hi Tch,

      Have you checked for trouble codes (scan the computer memory). You may have a problem in the fuel system. Sometimes it's some thing as simple as a clogging fuel filter that is not allowing enough fuel flow to reach the engine when demand increases. Go to an auto parts store to have the computer scanned. They'll do it for free.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Tawanda chibaya 

      13 months ago

      My dci1,5 is cutting off while im driving

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      13 months ago

      Hi Matt,

      It doesn't seem to be EGR related if it is happening in some degree when cold or hot. It seems have an issue with a sensor that is affecting the fuel system (coolant temp sensor, TPS, etc) or a problem in the fuel system itself. Have you tried scanning for codes, this might point you in the right direction.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Matt 

      13 months ago

      Very helpful guide thanks Dan.

      Currently having a problem with my 1.6 TDI Seat Ibiza, seems very underpowered lately to me (as in hesitation). Most obvious when the engine is cold. A good example would be when I'm pulling out on a roundabout and I'm really having to push down on the throttle to get a response from the car.

      Another symptom I'm having is that sometimes when braking hard (for instance approaching traffic lights) the revs will drop and fluctuate, sometimes causing the engine to cut out completely.

      The issues seem to be heightened during DPF regenerations which are happening on an almost weekly basis lately. Do you think the problems I'm having could be related to the EGR valve?

      Many thanks

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      13 months ago

      Hi Lynn,

      Yes, you may have an intermittent problem with the EGR valve, probably not opening as it should, or carbon deposits blocking the passages.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Lynn 

      13 months ago

      I have a question...my van seems to want to stall out but not when I first start it. It does it when I am cruising at a steady pace, whether it is 30, 40, or 50, etc, mph. My check engine light goes on and off periodically and I do have the EGR code when it's on. Could this be the problem?

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      14 months ago

      Hi John,

      If the valve sticks close, engine temperature will go up, but it's likely you'll hear knocking (detonations).

      The most common failure is for exhaust passages to clogg with carbon buildup. You can remove the EGR valve and check the ports on the cylinder head and underneath the valve. Use carburetor cleaner to remove buildup. Just be careful with electronic circuits, if yours is an electrical type.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      John 

      14 months ago

      Can it cause your car temperature gage to go up and down like it want to run hot

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi Oscar,

      The fact the you can smell gas points more to a reach air/fuel mixture. Have you check for possible leaks? Have you scan the computer? You may have some pending codes that can point to the problem.

      Good luck

    • profile image

      Oscar 

      15 months ago

      My 2000 firebird smell alot of gas, when I accelerate hard it throws a cloud of smoke but if I don't accelerate hard it won't smoke. Could this be the egr valve

    • profile image

      uriah 

      15 months ago

      stay away from the refuge church in homer as it is a refuge for gangstalkers also.

    • profile image

      Ross Gilbert 

      15 months ago

      Hi just to update in case anyone has a similar experience to myself. My 2012 Mark3 ford focus was puking coolant, running quite well! Very very Slightly ruff. The coolant was bubbling but no oil in coolant or coolant in the oil. Tried pressure test for leaks couldnt find anything. Didnt have the equipment to pressure test the cylinders. Tried replacing the EGR Cooler as this was the only other thing that could throw exhaust gasses into the coolant. No Joy.

      It was the head gaskett. Had it repaired today at a cost of £819 but included new timing belt, water pump. Flush and new coolant and oil filter change and oil so overalls happy with that.

      Thought id give an update as i was searching the Internet for similar cases. Kept been told that that it wouldnt be the head gasket as they dont go on the 1.6tdci.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi CL,

      When the EGR valve sticks open it'll cause a rough idle, even a stall. If it sticks close engine temperature will rise. While driving, this will cause detonations --you'll hear a knocking coming from the engine while driving.

      It's common for buildup to block EGR valve passages, so they require cleaning from time to time (depeniding on your driving patter and maintenance, about three or four years). But they can go also bad and will need replacement.

      It's possible to test the valve before replacement. https://tinyurl.com/kjt8lsz

    • profile image

      Christina Lee 

      15 months ago

      Can a bad EGR Valve cause the car to completely die.stop running while driving? Are they to be replaced OR cleaned?

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi airnewzealand15,

      I've heared of this problem on some models. Don't know if yours is similar. but the small gears that connect the meter to the transmision may wear out and you see what you describe, the pointer goes all over the place or just dies. If your particular model is fully electronic you might be dealing with a fault in the control module.

      Good luck

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi Gilbert

      Have you noticed a rough idle or some performance problem before. You may be dealing with a clogging fuel filter or bad fuel pressure. When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter? Check the fuel pressure as well.

      Good luck.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi JM,

      Did you check the injector, is it firing? You may be dealing with a clogged injector. Test the injecotr's coil resistance. Unplug the electrical connector and use a meter. You should get around 11Ohms, otherwise is no good. If it test find, you may need to remove it and see if it is acutally spraying fuell

      Good luck.

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi MK,

      Don't remember much about this model, but I know that on the aztec you have little room to move aroun. If yours is similar, try moving the automatic trnamission filler tube out of the way by removing the securing nut. In most cases you don't need a special tool. Then just remove the mounting bolts securint the valve (and perhaps the pipe).

      You can do a visual check around the valve to see what you need to remove.

      Good luck

    • Dan Ferrell profile imageAUTHOR

      Dan Ferrell 

      15 months ago

      Hi Cam,

      It would be a good idea to test the EGR first, You can use a hand held vacuum pump. Follow the steps here http://tinyurl.com/lus7a96

      If you feel comfortable doing your own tests, get the vehicle repair manual for your model. The EGR valve test is not too complicated and you can do it at home.

      If the shop does any work, you need to get some guaranty that they will make the correct repair.

      Good luck.

    • profile image

      Cam 

      15 months ago

      Hi. This article is very helpful.

      I have a 09 Chrysler Town and Country. The check Engine Light is lit up. After the van gets warmed up, it shuts down if I have to come to a complete stop (at a light or stop sign) but goes back to normal after I have to restart it and get moving again. Took it to one shop.. They said oh yeah, it's the torque converter and he did say it's the EGR. But didn't say that's what's causing the stopping. HE changed the torque converter. Problem still occurred. Took it back, now it's the Transmission and the EGR. DO you think replacing the EGR could be the quick fix for this problem do I really need to change both the transmission now and the EGR? 09' Town & Country w/ 160k miles.

      Thanks for any suggestion you are able to provide.

    • profile image

      airnewzealand15@icloud.com 

      15 months ago

      Thanks for this! I have just fixed the broken cog wheel in my egr valve on my golf GT mk5, and cleared the check engine light, but now I've just noticed that the live reading of km/l is all wildly inaccurate and sometimes just goes to --.--. It will go from 4 up to 50. Have you heard of that before. Thanks so much.

    • profile image

      Marlys Knaffla 

      15 months ago

      I called about the egr how to remove it and do you need a special tool to get it out my 2003 Pontic agree?

    • profile image

      John Medina 

      15 months ago

      My mini turbo has 124'000+ miles it is a 2008 clubman I replaced all plugs & coils to include the air flow intake sensor & is still misfiring I can't find the egr valve location or replacement part

    working

    This website uses cookies

    As a user in the EEA, your approval is needed on a few things. To provide a better website experience, axleaddict.com uses cookies (and other similar technologies) and may collect, process, and share personal data. Please choose which areas of our service you consent to our doing so.

    For more information on managing or withdrawing consents and how we handle data, visit our Privacy Policy at: https://axleaddict.com/privacy-policy#gdpr

    Show Details
    Necessary
    HubPages Device IDThis is used to identify particular browsers or devices when the access the service, and is used for security reasons.
    LoginThis is necessary to sign in to the HubPages Service.
    Google RecaptchaThis is used to prevent bots and spam. (Privacy Policy)
    AkismetThis is used to detect comment spam. (Privacy Policy)
    HubPages Google AnalyticsThis is used to provide data on traffic to our website, all personally identifyable data is anonymized. (Privacy Policy)
    HubPages Traffic PixelThis is used to collect data on traffic to articles and other pages on our site. Unless you are signed in to a HubPages account, all personally identifiable information is anonymized.
    Amazon Web ServicesThis is a cloud services platform that we used to host our service. (Privacy Policy)
    CloudflareThis is a cloud CDN service that we use to efficiently deliver files required for our service to operate such as javascript, cascading style sheets, images, and videos. (Privacy Policy)
    Google Hosted LibrariesJavascript software libraries such as jQuery are loaded at endpoints on the googleapis.com or gstatic.com domains, for performance and efficiency reasons. (Privacy Policy)
    Features
    Google Custom SearchThis is feature allows you to search the site. (Privacy Policy)
    Google MapsSome articles have Google Maps embedded in them. (Privacy Policy)
    Google ChartsThis is used to display charts and graphs on articles and the author center. (Privacy Policy)
    Google AdSense Host APIThis service allows you to sign up for or associate a Google AdSense account with HubPages, so that you can earn money from ads on your articles. No data is shared unless you engage with this feature. (Privacy Policy)
    Google YouTubeSome articles have YouTube videos embedded in them. (Privacy Policy)
    VimeoSome articles have Vimeo videos embedded in them. (Privacy Policy)
    PaypalThis is used for a registered author who enrolls in the HubPages Earnings program and requests to be paid via PayPal. No data is shared with Paypal unless you engage with this feature. (Privacy Policy)
    Facebook LoginYou can use this to streamline signing up for, or signing in to your Hubpages account. No data is shared with Facebook unless you engage with this feature. (Privacy Policy)
    MavenThis supports the Maven widget and search functionality. (Privacy Policy)
    Marketing
    Google AdSenseThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    Google DoubleClickGoogle provides ad serving technology and runs an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    Index ExchangeThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    SovrnThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    Facebook AdsThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    Amazon Unified Ad MarketplaceThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    AppNexusThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    OpenxThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    Rubicon ProjectThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    TripleLiftThis is an ad network. (Privacy Policy)
    Say MediaWe partner with Say Media to deliver ad campaigns on our sites. (Privacy Policy)
    Remarketing PixelsWe may use remarketing pixels from advertising networks such as Google AdWords, Bing Ads, and Facebook in order to advertise the HubPages Service to people that have visited our sites.
    Conversion Tracking PixelsWe may use conversion tracking pixels from advertising networks such as Google AdWords, Bing Ads, and Facebook in order to identify when an advertisement has successfully resulted in the desired action, such as signing up for the HubPages Service or publishing an article on the HubPages Service.
    Statistics
    Author Google AnalyticsThis is used to provide traffic data and reports to the authors of articles on the HubPages Service. (Privacy Policy)
    ComscoreComScore is a media measurement and analytics company providing marketing data and analytics to enterprises, media and advertising agencies, and publishers. Non-consent will result in ComScore only processing obfuscated personal data. (Privacy Policy)
    Amazon Tracking PixelSome articles display amazon products as part of the Amazon Affiliate program, this pixel provides traffic statistics for those products (Privacy Policy)